Mount Fuji: An Iconic Peak—and Trek

By Tracy Dahlby
February 7, 2007
In the Land of the Rising Sun, there's no better place to watch the night turn into day.

Looming 60 miles from Tokyo, Japan's immense, symmetrical, 12,388-foot peak all but taunts even mild adventurers to conquer it. Plenty accept the challenge: On just about every day during the July-August climbing season, thousands of mainly greenhorn hikers hit the trails, cheering each other on with cries of "Gambatte!" ("Hang in there!")

Summit by Sunrise
Fuji is Japan's great democratic trek. Anyone of reasonably sound body has a decent shot at making it all the way, no complex technical gear required.

The bottom-to-top hike takes about 12 hours one way, but most hikers opt for a shortcut that still yields a feeling of accomplishment. A two-and-a-half-hour bus ride from Tokyo's Shinjuku Station deposits hikers at Kawaguchiko Fifth Station, the most popular of Fuji's four main staging points (011-81/3-5376-2222, $22). From there, it's five to eight hours of hiking until you get to the Tenth Station at the summit.

By some combination of hiking in darkness and staying in one of the many huts on the way (city.fujiyoshida.yamanashi.jp, from $60 with meals, reserve ahead), you can meet the goal of standing on the summit forgoraiko (sunrise). The heavens, clearest at that time of day, fill with golden light, and the crowds cheer.

Though it's simple enough to hike Fuji on your own, a package from Sunrise Tours handles the details, with private transportation from Tokyo, an English-speaking guide, one night at a hut, and meals, including breakfast at the summit (011-81/3-5796-5454, jtbgmt.com, $295).

Bring Your Own Oxygen
Around the Eighth Station, the mix of high elevation and an increasingly steep trail leaves hikers gasping for breath. Beyond the basics--rain gear, worn-in boots, flashlight—bring a couple of oxygen canisters. They're sold at Toyko sporting goods stores for $4 apiece. Also, ask your doctor to prescribe Acetazolamide, a remedy to treat the headaches, nausea, and other symptoms of altitude sickness.

Of Sticks and Stamps
One very usable souvenir, sold at the Fifth Station for about $8, is an official walking stick. Hikers have special chops, or stamps, burned into the stick for $2 apiece at hill stations. An old saying goes, "The wise man climbs Fuji-san but once; only a fool does it twice"—and you'll want proof of just how far you made it.

Leave No Trace
Climbers find an environmentally friendly Fuji thanks to cleanup patrols that keep trails free of soda cans and other debris that once left Japan's national symbol somewhat of an eyesore. Don't make their job any more difficult: Take the "leave no trace" ethic to heart, and hike responsibly.

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The Sahara: Dry But Never Boring

A wilderness of sun-baked plateaus, palm-fringed oases, and mesmerizing sand seas, the Sahara measures nearly 3.5 million square miles, and reaches into 10 countries. Of those, Niger and Libya arguably offer the most impressive scenery, while Morocco is attractive because of convenient flights, great cities like Marrakech, and the fact that U.S. citizens staying less than three months don't need visas. To Morocco and BeyondRoyal Air Maroc flies from Washington, D.C., and New York City to Marrakech starting at around $860 (800/344-6726, royalairmaroc.com). There are also daily direct flights from most major European cities, including London via low-fare EasyJet. Adventure Center offers many tours of Morocco, including Sahara Camel Trek (15 days from $970 per person) and Saharan Sands Family Holiday (eight days from $817), both of which come with camel rides and camping in the dunes of the Sahara (800/228-8747, adventurecenter.com). Adventure Center runs several tours of the Libyan Sahara starting at $1,640 for 12 days. But entry rules for Libya have changed several times in recent years. Some Americans have followed the complex visa process only to have their visas cancelled on arrival for no apparent reason. Visiting now might be too risky. Visas for Niger can be arranged through a tour operator or the embassy in D.C. (202/483-4224, nigerembassyusa.org). Tours there, however, are pricy: Tucson-based Nomade Sahara Expedition has a 15-day, see-it-all Air-Tenere-Djado itinerary for $4,800 per person for two, or $3,600 if six are traveling together (520/572-9724, saharaexpedition.com). A charter flight from Paris is often the cheapest way to get to Niger; inquire with your tour operator about the details. What to Pack for a Desert ExcursionTour operators make it easy by listing exactly what participants should bring, including a sweater--the desert is cold at night. No special gear is required. Tents and cooking equipment are provided by guides, as are meals, which start with bread baked under embers in the hot sand. To protect yourself from the sun and wind, you could bring a hat and kerchief. Better yet, plan on buying a Tuareg turban, or cheche, when you arrive. It will really do the trick and makes for a fun souvenir; your guide can show you how to tie it.

Overwater Bungalows: Stay Literally on the Ocean

French Polynesia remains the undisputed capital of overwater escapes, where $700 is the typical starting price for a hut poised on stilts in a tranquil, aquamarine lagoon. But resorts exist that are both far more affordable than Bora Bora and still within belly-flopping distance of the water. Bermuda Opened in April 2005 on Bermuda's west side, 50 minutes from the airport, the 18-acre 9 Beaches resort gives the overwater bungalow concept something of a Cape Cod twist. The cabanas are constructed from a breathable canvas fabric stretched over an aluminum frame, for an appearance that's more seaside cottage than South Seas thatched-roof cabin. The design allows cool Atlantic breezes to circulate (though bungalows also have air-conditioning). Of the resort's 84 units, 17 stand on wooden piers over the water; see-through floor panels reveal sea life beneath. 866/841-9009, 9beaches.com, overwater bungalow $340 in spring and winter. French Polynesia South Pacific bargains, relatively speaking, come in the form of a pair of Pearl Resorts, in popular Moorea (within easy reach of Tahiti by ferry or plane) and less visited Raiatea, which is the second-biggest island in all of French Polynesia after Tahiti (a $297, 40-minute flight from Papeete). Overwater bungalows at the Raiatea Hawaikik Nui Hotel have high ceilings and oversize verandas; at Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa, guests slumber in rooms adorned with fresh flowers and high-thread-count sheets, a quick swim away from white-sand beaches. 800/657-3275, pearlresorts.com, Raiatea overwater bungalow $569 June-November; Moorea $329 June-November. Philippines The El Nido Lagen Island Resort's 51 air-conditioned cabins (18 over the water) are in a protected cove surrounded by lush forests and sheer limestone cliffs. Though the stilts and walls of the overwater units are concrete, the interiors have an elegant warmth, with floors and furnishings made of antique wood repurposed from Philippine homes. A 65-minute flight from Manila ($285) followed by a water taxi (free for guests) gets you there. Note: The U.S. State Department has issued a travel warning for the Philippines, so use caution. 011-632/894-5644, elnidoresorts.com, overwater bungalow $256 June-October. Panama Two tiny, remote overwater bungalow resorts in Panama do a wonderful job of copying the romantic thatched-roof South Pacific look and atmosphere. Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge is reached via a one-hour flight from Panama City ($140 round trip) followed by a water taxi that's complimentary for guests. The resort has nine bungalows--all two stories, built carefully to avoid damaging the coral below, with solar power and gorgeous palm-leaf roofs. 011-507/6612-1088, puntacaracol.com, $300 mid-May-June and September-mid-December. Near the San Blas Islands, 25 minutes by plane from Panama City (about $65 round trip), the Coral Lodge's six casitas all sit over the water. They boast soaring roofs and creature comforts like Jacuzzis and air-conditioning. 011-507/317-6754, corallodge.com, $215 year-round except Christmastime. Isolation's Downside Because these resorts are so remote, dining on property is often the only option--so ask about meal costs before you book. Also, when checking in, request the most secluded suite available; sound really carries over water. Cabin Fever Two or three overwater nights should suffice. Complete the vacation by staying in a less expensive room or a cheaper hotel nearby that has an equally nice beach. An air/hotel package can also save you money, though companies often only include bungalows at bigger (and pricier) resorts. Request a custom-made package from South Pacific specialists like SunSpots (sunspotsintl.com) and ATS Tours (atstours.com) to see if it'll cost less than booking air and lodging piecemeal.

Mexico Aflutter: The Amazing Migration

As the day heats up at Mexico's 217-square-mile Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, the insects fly to cool off. Scales fall from their wings, and black and orange glitter fills the air. Finding SanctuaryWithin the reserve, four butterfly sanctuaries are open to the public: El Rosario and Sierra Chincua, in the state of Michoacan, and La Mesa and Cerro Pelon's El Capulin, in the neighboring state of Mexico. The monarchs start arriving in mid-November and stay through mid-March, before returning to their summertime homes, as far as 3,000 miles away, in the eastern U.S. and Canada. The butterflies nest above 10,000 feet, and visitors usually must walk a mile or two to reach them, so it's best to hike slowly, drink plenty of water, and bring warm clothing in case of bad weather. The city of Morelia, served by nonstop flights from Mexico City, Houston, and Los Angeles, is the best launching point for visitors. Ten-hour guided trips from MMG Tours leave Morelia on most mornings and head to El Rosario or Sierra Chincua (011-52/443-340-4632, mmg.com.mx, $50). Rocamar Tours' two-night package includes guides, transportation, lodging in Morelia and at the foot of the mountains in Zitacuaro, and a visit to El Capulin and either El Rosario or Sierra Chincua (866/762-2627, rocamar.com.mx, $370 per person double). A more in-depth tour, G.A.P Adventures' nine-night Mexico Monarch Butterfly Trail package--with transportation from Mexico City, visits to sanctuaries, horseback riding, and other adventures--will be offered in early 2008 (800/708-7761, gapadventures.com, from $795). Going It Alone There are no sanctuary websites or reliable phone numbers, but the World Wildlife Fund posts information about services--horseback riding, cabin rentals--at the sanctuaries, as well as detailed driving directions, at wwf.org.mx. Park admission ($2-$5) includes a tour guide who probably won't be fluent in English. Checking IDsResearchers attach plastic ID tags to some butterflies' wings. If you see one, report the tag number and location to monarchwatch.org. For Social Butterflies Angangueo, a colonial town 45 minutes by car from El Rosario, makes an ideal base for independent sightseers (Hotel Don Bruno, 011-52/715-156-0026, from $70). The town hosts dance and craft shows during the month-long Monarch Festival every February.

The Hermitage: Art World Royalty

With nearly 3 million works of art, the five gold-encrusted buildings that constitute the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg are overwhelming, to say the least. A common piece of advice is to visit over several days. Even so, prioritizing is essential. The Highlights Start at the baroque, block-long Winter Palace, the oldest of the buildings, commissioned in 1754. The imperial family's former living quarters, located upstairs from the white-marble Jordan Staircase, are the museum's most historic rooms. In the Small Dining Room, members of the Provisional Government were arrested in 1917 by the Bolsheviks; a mantel clock reads 2:10, the supposed time when power was transferred. The imperial throne and 332 portraits of Russian and Napoleonic war leaders are nearby. The Winter Palace is also where you'll find terrific artwork, including The Dance, Henri Matisse's 1909 masterpiece of five nude figures cavorting in a circle, on the second floor in the Impressionist and Postimpressionist collection. A ground-floor hall showcases the discoveries from fifth century B.C. tombs, including wood carvings and the world's oldest carpet, which is faded but still gorgeous, and adorned with deer and griffins. You can't go wrong wandering the other buildings, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for. The 19-ton Kolyvan Vase, in the New Hermitage, was carved in Siberia and dragged over ice beds to St. Petersburg by 153 horses and nearly 1,000 men. The New Hermitage is also home to the world's largest collection of Rembrandt's paintings (there are 23), on the first floor. The Small Hermitage's architectural dazzler is the Pavilion Room, notable for its white-marble columns, 28 crystal chandeliers, and banks of windows. More Access Membership in the U.K.'s Friends of the Hermitage costs $148 and not only gains you standard entry for a year--you can also tour the open storage facility, with the imperial carriages and other pieces that most visitors never lay eyes on (011-44/207-845-4635, hermitagefriends.org). Buying a Package vs. Going It Alone Booking on your own is possible, though acquiring the $100 visa is complicated; paying $75 for a tour operator to do it is probably worth the expense. Eastern Tours includes flights from New York City, four nights' hotel, and a tour of St. Petersburg and the Hermitage from $999 through mid-April (800/339-6967, traveltorussia.com). Taxes and visas add $550 more. Admission to the Hermitage costs $13, and an extra $4 or $11 allows you to snap photos or use a video camera, respectively. To skip the admission lines, book at hermitagemuseum.org. You'll be e-mailed a voucher, which you should print out and bring with you to exchange for a ticket.