New York: Midtown

SEE Barbara Gladstone Gallery515 W. 24th St., 212/206-9300, gladstonegallery.comChelsea is the center of contemporary art in the U.S., and this gallery is at the forefront. Expect any media, from photographs to installations, to be on view in this massive exhibition space. Other names to look out for: Greene Naftali (526 W. 26th St., Ste. 822), and Virgil de Voldère (526 W. 26th St., Ste. 416). SEE RMA (Rubin Museum of Art)150 W. 17th St., 212/620-5000, rmanyc.orgAn impressive new 70,000-square-foot museum dedicated exclusively to Himalayan art. Born out of the private collection of Shelley and Donald Rubin, it brims with authoritative passion-key paintings, sculptures, and textiles feature mostly Tibetan Buddhist, Bon, and Hindu imagery. There's also a café and a store selling books and Himalayan crafts such as yeti dolls. $7 adults, $5 students and seniors. EAT Craft Bar900 Broadway, 212/461-4300The cheaper sibling of Craft, run by an award-winning chef who's rekindled many a romance with hard-to-find seasonal ingredients such as ramps, morel mushrooms, and white peaches. You get your choice of fish, meat, or pasta from the pared-down main menu, but you can make a meal of the Mediterranean-influenced appetizers, which include a mustardy frisée salad and fried sage leaves stuffed with sausage. EAT La Nacional239 W. 14th St., 212/243-9308Expats from the Iberian Peninsula have been visiting the Spanish Benevolent Society since 1868 (Federico García Lorca, Luis Buñuel, et al.), and enjoying its authentic Spanish food-the tortilla española (potato omelet), made-to-order croquetas (croquettes), grilled calamari, and white sangria are especially good. There's no sign, so enter under the stoop, walk down the hall, and go through the unmarked door. If you happen by on a Thurs., head upstairs and ogle the weekly tango party. EAT Nooch143 Eighth Ave., 212/691-8600A style-conscious noodle bar that serves dishes mostly from Japan and Thailand. Designer Karim Rashid's chartreuse accents and curvy furniture give it a cheery veneer. EAT Pop Burger58-60 Ninth Ave., 212/414-8686Fast-food chic reaches new heights at this hip burger 'n' fries counter. Shakes are so thick your spoon will stand upright. After dark, the back lounge buzzes with pool players. DRINK Enoteca i Trulli122 E. 27th St., 212/481-7372, itrulli.comSerious oenophiles and newbie wine drinkers alike will feel right at home at this Apulian wine bar and trattoria. The waitstaff will tell you all you need to know, whether you order a glass or a flight of three two-ounce pours. DRINK Maritime Hotel363 W. 16th St., at Ninth Ave., 212/242-4300, themaritimehotel.comNot your average hotel bar. Its retro nautical-themed lobby with fireplace and massive outdoor terrace are both comfortable (i.e., loads of space) and make good perches for people-watching. There are even more bar stools downstairs at Matsuri, a handsome Japanese resto-bar. SPLURGE The Inn at Irving Place56 Irving Pl., 212/533-4466, innatirving.com, cibarlounge.comTraditional five-course tea service with all the trimmings: finger sandwiches, scones, jams, and clotted cream amid Victorian lucre (the Inn may be one of the most precious-and fabulous-properties in the city). By reservation only. Price $35. Downstairs is the swanky Cibar Lounge for those who want something stronger. SHOP Greenmarket Farmers MarketUnion Square A picnicker's dream. Contrary to popular belief, New Yorkers do appreciate Mother Nature, and this market is proof. The food is mostly grown within 150 miles of the city and picked the day before. You can find produce, blooms, and organic meats (smoked turkey!), plus yarn, cider donuts, and other handmade goodies. Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat., 8 a.m.-6 p.m. SHOP Print Icon7 W. 18th St., 212/255-4489, printicon.comCut paper, letterpress stationery, holiday cards, and more. Buy a card for $3 at this well-loved, 20-year-old store, and take home a work of art. Paper has never looked so good. PLAY Roller-skating at the Roxy515 W. 18th St., 212/645-5157, roxynyc.comStrap on skates, and sway to the Bee Gees at this Wed.-night blast-from-the-past event. Aside from taking you on a nostalgia trip, this long-lasting megaclub also hosts some raging dance parties on Fri. and Sat. Admission: $18. PLAY Satalla37 W. 26th St., 212/576-1155, satalla.comA groovy 200-seat venue catering to world-music lovers. It gets top-name talent from around the globe-Africa, Latin America, and beyond. Shows, held most nights of the week, are at 7:30 p.m. and 10 p.m., with extra midnight performances on weekends and family shows on Sunday afternoons. The mission of its founder was to "foster an awareness of the world's cultures" through music. Average ticket price: $18.

SEE The Meatpacking DistrictWest of Ninth Ave., between Gansevoort and W. 14th Sts. A cobbled, historic, working neighborhood that's disappearing as fast as you can say "Gucci." It's one of the buzziest parts of town, which makes it a fun, if expensive, playground. BT's advice: Go see this slice of New York life before it disappears forever, and then support the neighborhood businesses by treating yourself to steak frites at Florent, (69 Gansevoort St., 212/989-5779). SEE Sheridan SquareSeventh Ave. at Christopher and W. Fourth Sts.Named for the Civil War's General Sheridan but known as the epicenter of NYC's gay community-the Stonewall Inn, site of the historic 1969 riots for gay rights, is adjacent (212/463-0950). Nearby, The Duplex piano bar (61 Christopher St., 212/255-5438) is always a good time. (Joan Rivers performs her catty comedy here.) Neighborhood lesbians like the colorfully festooned Cubbyhole (281 W. 12th St., at W. 4th St., 212/243-9041). EAT Chez Brigitte77 Greenwich Ave., near W. 11th St., 212/929-6736 A trapped-in-time 11-person counter that serves French comfort food. Its Provençal omelet hits the spot any time of day, and the beef bourguignon is also très bon. EAT 'ino21 Bedford St., near Sixth Ave., 212/989-5769, cafeino.comA pocket-sized café that spotlights Italian snacks such as bruschette (little slices of bread with savory toppings). High-concept flavor combinations include asparagus, parmesan, and truffle oil. It recently spawned a larger outpost on the Lower East Side-'inoteca (98 Rivington St., 212/614-0473). EAT Extra Virgin259 W. Fourth St., 212/691-9359, extravirginrestaurant.comA stylish, decently priced newbie that serves marvelous Mediterranean dishes including to-die-for Caesar salad, roasted monkfish, and tarte Tatin. It's open for brunch, too. EAT Lassi28 Greenwich Ave., 212/675-2688Authentic North Indian snacks and smoothies (lassis) made from low-fat yogurt-sample the rose or lemon blossom. Traditional paratha bread comes stuffed with daikon, goat meat, cheese, and other ingredients. EAT Milk and Cookies19 Commerce St., 212/243-1640Stop here for snickerdoodles, oatmeal-cranberry cookies, and nutter butters like you've never had, and wash 'em all down with a chilled glass of organic milk. Feeling creative? Choose your own "mix-in," and in 10 minutes a mini-batch of your very own made-to-order cookies will emerge warm from the oven. SPLURGE Wallsé344 W. 11th St., 212/352-2300, wallse.comAustrian cuisine executed with a light, sophisticated touch. Wiener schnitzel that doesn't feel like a punch in the stomach, delicate sauces infused with Riesling-you get the idea. Its martini made with pepper vodka and tomato water is a revelation-like a cocktail plucked from the vine. DRINK Jack's138 W. 10th St., 212/929-0821, jacksstirbrew.comCoffee-freak Jack Mazzola takes his java seriously-home brews are full-bodied and low on acid. His great-aunt Rosie's chocolate-chip cookies are a must. DRINK Employees Only510 Hudson St., 212/242-3021Expertly mixed classic cocktails (try a Manhattan) amid sultry art deco decor. The only thing out of place is the tarot-card reader in the window. DRINK Von3 Bleecker St., 212/473-3039A well-worn, well-loved, well-stocked bar that pours fine wines by the glass and carries many beers from Europe-a goodly amount from brew capital Belgium. DRINK Highline835 Washington St., 212/243-3339, nychighline.com Head straight to the basement lounge of this space-age Thai restaurant, where ginger mojitos flow freely. If you get hungry, order the steak with lemongrass-cumin mole. SHOP Partners & Crime44 Greenwich Ave., 212/243-0440, crimepays.comAn impressive independent bookshop where crime is a passion. There's an authoritative selection of mysteries and crime novels, from Agatha Christie to Claire Matturro. The first Saturday night of every month, Cranston & Spade Theater Co. performs classic 1940s radio scripts at 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. $5. SHOP MXYPLYZYK125 Greenwich Ave., 212/989-4300, mxyplyzyk.comA clever housewares and gift shop whose name was inspired by a character from a Superman comic. SHOP C.O. Bigelow Chemists414 Sixth Ave., 212/533-2700, bigelowchemists.comThe oldest apothecary in the U.S.-it's been filling prescriptions since 1838. An amazing selection of homeopathic and European health and beauty products. PLAY Arthur's Tavern57 Grove St., 212/675-6879, arthurstavernnyc.comA small, laid-back music club that's hosted terrific talent nightly for over 50 years. Jazz starts at 7 p.m., blues at 10 p.m. No cover.

EAT ChikaLicious203 E. 10th St., 212/995-9511, chikalicious.com Sugar-infused tasting menus with dishes like mascarpone semifreddo, espresso granita, and coconut panna cotta with basil sorbet, wine pairings, and petits fours are yours at this ultramodern 400-square-foot dessert bar. EAT Crif Dogs113 St. Marks Pl., 212/614-2728Hot dogs deep fried for your indulgent pleasure. EAT Jewel Bako Makimono101 Second Ave., 212/253-7848Refined Japanese food-tartares, creative makis, and new takes on miso soup-at reasonable prices from culinary wunderkinds Jack and Grace Lamb. There are only 20 seats in all-that's more than their 12-seat formal dining room around the corner at the very precious Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar. EAT Mercadito179 Ave. B, 212/529-6490A bustling, convivial restaurant that's entirely devoted to authentic Mexican food-tender pork tacos, spicy chorizo, and made-to-order guacamole. Slurp a margarita on the back patio. EAT Miss Williamsburg Portavia228 E. 10th St., 212/228-5355, miss-williamsburg.comA feel-good Brooklyn import (the original is in a renovated diner at 206 Kent Ave., 718/963-0802) that churns out grandma-style Italian cooking. The menu includes rich pastas and desserts layered with bold flavors, such as cheese fondue lasagna with pesto and panna cotta draped in berries. DRINK International Bar120 1/2 First Ave., 212/777-9244An awesome (and scruffy) granddad bar, where the drinks are simple, the decor nonexistent, and a killer jukebox is packed with Devo, Run-D.M.C., and the Buzzcocks. Want confirmation of its cool factor? The Coen brothers have been known to belly up to the bar. DRINK Angel's Share8 Stuyvesant St., 2nd Fl., 212/777-5415Masterful bartenders tend this once-little-known Japanese lounge. It's no longer a secret, so hit it on off-hours, or go early. Try the mint julep. Note: It won't seat groups larger than four. DRINK Bar Veloce175 Second Ave., 212/260-3200, barveloce.comA popular neutral-toned Italian wine bar with high, narrow tables, blond woods, and smart spotlighting. Its appeal has only increased since it was the site of a freak incident in 2002-a crazy wielding guns and a sword was tackled to the ground by two female patrons. No one was seriously hurt, so drink up! SHOP Gominyc443 E. Sixth St., 212/979-0388, gominyc.comRecycling is brought to new creative heights at this green boutique where everything from clothes to furniture is made from sustainable materials. Items such as bike-chain bracelets and "pot holder" rugs are surprisingly chic. SHOP Kiehl's109 Third Ave., 212/677-3171, kiehls.com154-year-old pharmacy with a no-frills aesthetic sells its own label of beauty products. Its lip balm, grapefruit body lotion, and other all-natural products have garnered a devoted following. Ask for some free samples. SHOP East Ninth StreetBetween Ave. A and Second Ave.One of the first enclaves of do-it-yourself designers who thumbed their noses at the fashion and design industries, embarked on the fast track, and opened their own boutiques. PLAY Rififi/Cinema Classics332 E. 11th St., 212/677-1027, cinemaclassics.comA bar/screening room that's part college lounge, part underground arts venue. It pays homage to celluloid greatness and shows old cult horror and sci-fi films on Mon. nights. Other nights are devoted to music (Fri. & Sat.), burlesque (Thurs. & Sun.), and stand-up comedy (Wed.). Cover price: free to $5. PLAY Amato Opera Theatre319 Bowery, 212/228-8200, amato.orgGrand opera in a tiny theater. Anthony and Sally Amato have been turning their passion for arias into a reality since 1948, providing a professional space for young singers to stretch their vocal chords and strut their stuff. (Many have gone on to sing opera on great stages around the world.) You can see a phenomenal production like La Bohème for a fraction of what you'd pay uptown. Adults $30, students and seniors $25. PLAY Joe's PubPublic Theater, 425 Lafayette St., 212/539-8770, joespub.comNamed for the theater's late founder, Joseph Papp. It has perhaps the most exciting roster of singers, musicians, comedians, and assorted off-beat acts anywhere in the city. Expect star-spottings. Shows nightly. From $7.

SEE Guss' Lower East Side Pickles85-87 Orchard St., 917/701-4000Homemade pickles sold straight from massive barrels of vinegary brine have been making people pucker since 1920. To get a glimpse of this true Lower East Side institution, you might have to stand in line. Closed Sat. SEE Lower East Side Tenement Museum90 Orchard St., near Broome St., 212/431-0233, tenement.orgDon't miss this museum! NYC's rich immigrant history is brought to life in an 1863 tenement building. Guided tours show how a Jewish family lived in the 1870s and how a Sicilian-Catholic family lived in the 1930s. The quarters were shockingly cramped (e.g., two toilets for every four families). Adults $13, students and seniors $11. Additional walking tours of the Lower East Side leave Sat. and Sun. at 1 p.m. and 3 p.m. Call to reserve space in advance. EAT Falai68 Clinton St., 212/253-1960, falainyc.comA bright white Italian restaurant where the only color is on the plate. The food is all fatto in casa, or made in-house; the Florentine owner (formerly the pastry chef at Le Cirque) is a purist and makes all his own pasta (and even chocolate) by hand. Desserts, such as profiteroles with Marsala mousse and chocolate sauce, are marvels. EAT FreemansFreeman Alley, off Rivington St., between the Bowery and Chrystie St., 212/420-0012, freemansrestaurant.comAn unpretentious, taxidermy-filled American restaurant that emits a strong whiff of yesteryear-old-fashioned cocktails and appetizers like "devils on horseback" (bacon-wrapped prunes stuffed with Stilton cheese). The bartenders are first-rate. EAT Il Laboratorio del Gelato95 Orchard St., at Broome St., 212/343-9922, laboratoriodelgelato.comOver 75 varieties of delicious gelato and sorbet. It scoops all the standards but also has some off-beat flavors, too, including black sesame, honey lavender, and green fig. And there really is a "lab," where ice-creamologists wear white coats. EAT Teany90 Rivington St., 212/475-9190, teany.comA delightful, airy café owned by Grammy Award-winning musician Moby. It sells over 90 kinds of tea from around the world, and mostly veggie snacks. Window boxes add extra charm, and even the bathroom is inviting. SPLURGE Sammy's Roumanian Steakhouse157 Chrystie St., at Delancey St., 212/673-0330Think chilled vodka, he-man steaks, and schmaltzy performers singing songs from Fiddler on the Roof. Don't leave without ordering an egg cream-you'll get a carton of milk, a jar of Fox's U-bet chocolate syrup, and an old-fashioned bottle of seltzer brought right to your table. Good Jewish fun! DRINK East Side Company49 Essex St., 212/614-7408You feel like you're about to be shot out of a cannon at this tight tunnel of a bar, but the intimate surroundings work to great effect. The pressed-tin ceiling, cozy leather booths, raw bar, and perfect classic cocktails conspire to create a sophisticated, romantic place to rendezvous. Closed Mon. DRINK The Whiskey Ward121 Essex St., near Rivington St., 212/477-2998A modern-day saloon with a heady list of scotches and single-malt bourbons. SHOP Bluestockings Books172 Allen St., 212/777-6028, bluestockings.comStacks of empowering titles devoted to revolutionary plights, radical philosophies, and controversial topics du jour. Its volunteer employees are bookish rebels with a cause. SHOP Jutta Neumann 158 Allen St., 212/982-7048, juttaneumann-newyork.com Hands-on boutique sells a rainbow of leather accessories and useful items, from handbags to key chains. Everything is crafted on-site, and the prices are nice. Closed Sun. PLAY Landmark's Sunshine Cinema143 E. Houston St., 212/358-7709, landmarktheatres.comA plush art-house movie theater that's housed in a former Yiddish vaudeville theater. PLAY The Slipper Room167 Orchard St., at Stanton St., 212/253-7246, slipperroom.comHomespun va-va-voom burlesque. Showgirls (and showboys) shake their tail feathers on a Victorian, jewel-box stage. Other acts include the "Drag King Squad" and gothic belly dancing. Cover price: free to $10. PLAY The Delancey Lounge168 Delancey St., 212/254-9920Some of the country's hottest (and greenest) rock bands are fighting for billing at this triple-tiered club that's regularly frequented by music execs and celebs on the down low. The rooftop lounge is a treat in summer (BBQ, anyone?).