New Zealand Unveils a New Hiking Trail

By Beth Collins
January 31, 2011
Queen Charlotte, Australia
sheriryden/myBudgetTravel
A recently unveiled cross-country route connects Lord of the Rings landscapes with surprisingly cushy hike-in accommodations. We detail three doable itineraries that end in a sweet stay.

You would have to walk 150 days or more to cover all 1,864 miles of New Zealand's cross-country Te Araroa Trail, which opens this month after 35 years in the making. Or you could take an easier route. The Te Araroa's Queen Charlotte section strings achingly gorgeous views and plush new lodges together into a handful of easy-to-do day hikes, all just a short ferry ride from the town of Picton.

HIKE 1: STROLL THE BEACH
The Route
The Te Araroa picks up on the South Island near the Ship Cove ferry station and starts hikers off on a scalloped, white-sand beach, shaded by 30-foot-high Nikau palm trees. From there, it climbs a rocky ridge overlooking cerulean-blue Resolution Bay and then dips down to Endeavour Inlet.

Difficulty Level Easy to moderate, 9 miles

Where to Stay Just a quarter-mile walk from Endeavour Inlet, the Furneaux Lodge
is bordered by a 2,000-acre swath of virgin forest. Choose a dormitory (from $26 per person) or one of 14 new suites (furneaux.co.nz, from $127).

HIKE 2: SUMMIT A MOUNTAIN
The Route
From the Torea Bay ferry station, the Te Araroa leads to a 1,300-foot-high saddle between two forested peaks, high above Queen Charlotte Sound. From there, it cuts through an archaeological reserve scattered with 15th-century Maori artifacts, before reaching Mistletoe Bay.

Difficulty Level Moderate, 7 miles

Where to Stay When the trail nears the shoreline, you'll see signs for the two-mile James Vogel Track, which will take you to Mistletoe Bay Eco Village. The eight heated cabins have water views, and each sleeps up to six (mistletoebay.co.nz, cabins $105).

HIKE 3: WALK AMONG WILDLIFE
The Route
Native New Zealand birds like tiny black-and-white tomtits and gray fantails make their home along the route west of the Mistletoe Bay ferry stop. The trail follows a former bridle path past sheep stations, farms, and old-growth beech trees.

Difficulty Level Easy, 8 miles

Where to Stay Sitting right on the beach at the western edge of Queen Charlotte Sound, the five-room, two-story Tirimoana House has a private deck, uninterrupted water views, and antique chandeliers (tirimoanahouse.com, from $150).

Multiple ferries run daily from Picton (boatrides.co.nz, from $50 one way).

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$4 Coaster At Granada's Laguna Taller de Taracea wood shop, travelers get to observe experts in the Moorish inlay technique of marquetry and then take home their own lightweight wooden coaster for mere pocket change. Laguna Taller de Taracea, Real de la Alhambra 30, Granada, laguna-taracea.com. $12 Tile The decorative ceramic tilework seen in the fortresses, villas, and courtyards of Seville, Andalusia's capital, is the city's signature craft. This two-inch-square piece came from a demolished 19th-century building and bears the symbol of Spain's Castile region. Populart, Pasaje de Vila 4, Seville, 011-34/95-422-9444. $11 Hairpin An elegant alternative to the ornate peineta hair combs sold in area souvenir shops, the delicate sterling hairpins from Seville silversmith Antonio Bustamante work just as well to secure a flamenco-inspired updo. Calle Arfe at Calle Dos de Mayo, Seville, 011-34/95-456-0013. $16 Coin purse While Córdoba's 500-year-old tradition of leather embossing is still going strong, today's designers rely on modern juxtapositions of color and texture, as with this palm-size purse. Zoco Municipal, Calle Judíos, Córdoba, artesaniadecordoba.com. $15 Paper Named for a popular 19th-century novelist who worked in Seville, the Fernán Caballero stationery shop specializes in handmade trinket boxes and large sheets of marbled paper. Fernán Caballero, Pasaje de Vila 13, Seville. $18 Catchall This six-inch-wide, sunshine-yellow dish by Cerámicas Rakú-one of a handful of studios authorized to sell at Córdoba's tightly vetted souk-is an artistic riff on the Star of David. Zoco Municipal, Calle Judíos, Córdoba, artesaniadecordoba.com.

Destinations

10 Islands to See Before You Die

If you're going to imagine yourself on an exotic island, dare to dream big! Here are 10 one-of-a-kind islands where you'll discover every item on your wish list, from overwater bungalows and pristine wildlife to sublime street food and mysterious cultural monuments. Of course, traveling to these islands comes at a price; the dollar signs below provide a general indication of how much you'll want to budget for accommdations and food. Multiply by seven if you stay a week or by 365 if you're convinced to quit your job and stay a year. $: $1–$74 $$: $75–$149 $$$: $150–$224 $$$$: $225–Up SEE THE ISLANDS! 1. VIEQUES When the U.S. Navy packed up and left Vieques in 2003, after more than 60 years, it left something behind: unspoiled nature. Land once used for bombing practice is now designated as a national wildlife refuge. So far there are only a few mega-resorts like those found on the Puerto Rican mainland—instead, you'll find homey inns like the aptly named Great Escape B&B, where breakfast is served poolside (from $115). There are only two notable towns (the population is less than 10,000): Isabel Segunda on the northern side of the island, and the far smaller Esperanza on the south. The effect is that when you reach a beach at the end of a dirt road here, your reward is having the sand largely to yourself. Playa de la Chiva (Blue Beach) attracts daytime snorkelers and divers, but the real reason Vieques belongs on your bucket list is Puerto Mosquito. Of the seven bioluminescent bays on the planet, Puerto Mosquito is the most impressive, thanks to the clarity and brightness of its waters. Schedule a moonless night for a swim or kayak tour and you'll be greeted by billions of micro-organisms called dinoflagellates that ignite the water with a magical blue-green glow (Aqua Frenzy Kayaks, from $30 per person). It's like swimming in a watercolor painting. $$ >>Related: Dream Trips: Find a Deserted Beach 2. EASTER ISLAND With the nearest major landmass, Chile, lying 2,200 miles away, Easter Island is as remote as it is mysterious. No one knows exactly why nearly 900 gargantuan stone monoliths are sprinkled across this isolated, 60-square-mile scrap of land in the middle of the South Pacific—and those long, stone faces aren't talking. For several hundred years, the moai that are unique to this island have maintained their silent sentinel even as the civilization that created them collapsed and a trickle of tourists appeared in its wake. Intended to stand atop cut-stone altars (called ahu), the moai average 13 feet high and weigh nearly 14 tons each; most lie prone, toppled by civil wars in the 17th and 18th centuries. A particularly compelling spot is Rano Raraku, the collapsed volcano where many moai were quarried and where nearly 400 figures remain, all frozen in various states of completion. The island counts only one town, Hanga Roa, where you'll want to check in to Vai Moana, a low-key hotel with 18 rooms set in bungalows (from $102, including breakfast and transport to and from the airport). You can then wander from the volcanic coastline across grassy hills without bumping into another human being who might break Easter Island's spell. $$$ 3. BALI The warm, spiritual essence that writer Elizabeth Gilbert discovered here and celebrated in Eat, Pray, Love has been native to Bali for centuries. It's one of 17,000 islands in the Indonesian archipelago—and the only one on which Hindus form the majority (93 percent). Even more striking is the fact that there is a spiritual celebration here nearly every day. Three Hindu temples at the Besakih (the Mother Temple of Bali) survived a 1963 eruption that destroyed nearby villages while missing by mere yards this terraced complex atop volcanic Mount Agung. The event is still considered a miracle by locals, who arrive in regular procession; they balance offerings on their head and climb the steps to the sound of mantras, jingling bells, and the sharp flutter of umbul-umbuls (ceremonial Balinese flags). Anyone interested in exploring the inner self might like the Nirarta Centre, an 11-room hotel set amid rice terraces and gardens that holds daily meditation sessions. After finding your center here, channel your energy into jungle treks, scuba diving, and big-break surfing along beaches of fine white and volcanic black sand. Exhale against a backdrop of rice paddies and Impressionist sunsets that illuminate the Indian Ocean. $$$$ >>Related: Secret Islands of Southeast Asia 4. ISCHIA This volcanic island in the Bay of Naples has hot springs so therapeutic that they have drawn admirers for 2,000 years. Greeks, Romans, and Turks quickly discovered that Ischia's fumaroles, hot springs, and heated mud hold the power to ease sore muscles—or simply provide a degree of self-indulgence. Today's travelers are likewise pampered by massages and mud wraps courtesy of the island's geothermal characteristic, which helps fill the 22 thermo-mineral pools of the beachfront spa Giardini di Poseidon Terme. After your treatment of choice, peel off the sandals for a walk on the beach, a visit to the 15th-century Castello Aragonese, or a glass of biancolella (white) or per 'e palummo (red) wine from local vineyards. You can also get a taste of the glam, jet-setter lifestyle associated with Italy and depicted in the film The Talented Mr. Ripley, shot here on location. Retreat to the family-run Hotel Villa Angelica, whose garden naturally includes a thermal swimming pool with a Jacuzzi (from $75, including breakfast). $$$ 5. CHILOÉ The lush, cloud-covered Chiloé archipelago may lie off the western coast of Chile, but its history, customs, and language bear little resemblance to those of the mainland, or anywhere else in the world, because of its isolation. Local farmers have passed down a mythology of gnome- and witch-filled woodlands and ghost ships. Valdivian temperate rain forests are protected within Parque Nacional Chiloé. In the Pacific, dolphins, penguins, otters, and the largest creatures in history—blue whales—are studied and protected by the Cetacean Conservation Center. In the central city of Castro, order a steaming meal of curanto (shellfish, meat, and potatoes) and peruse handicrafts made of wood and colorful garments created from Chilean wool. Residents still live in traditional palafitos (stilt houses). Jesuit missionaries, who first arrived in small numbers in the 1600s, used local materials and construction techniques to build exquisite chapels. Their work survives in more than 50 wooden churches found in communities such as Castro, Nercón, Chonchi, Dalcahue, and Quinchao; their appearance reflects a hybrid of European and indigenous styles that you won't find anywhere else on earth. $$ 6. BORA BORA If you envision yourself on an island in French Polynesia, Bora Bora is the place to hang your hammock. Even novelist James Michener, who penned sweeping epics set in the South Pacific and beyond, dubbed it the world's most beautiful island. Mingled in among the Society Islands northwest of Tahiti, Bora Bora's lowland reefs and islets are lorded over by Mount Pahia and Mount Otemanu, twin peaks forming an extinct volcano in the island's interior. Super-expensive upscale resorts along the western edge—and a fair share of inns and vacation rentals—feature overwater thatch-roofed bungalows built on stilts above shallow, clear-as-gin waters. (Maitai Resort is a comparatively affordable option, considering the $800-plus competition, with rooms from $198 and bungalows from $408, including taxes.) Slip on a sarong and relax while savoring the vision of endless miles of soft sand beaches and lagoons. Luxurious, certainly, but of even greater value is the philosophy of Bora Bora's residents: Aita pea pea. In other words, "not to worry." $$$$ >>Related: Overwater Bungalows: Stay Literally on the Ocean 7. KEY WEST Laid-back, beach-y living coupled with a flamboyant arts scene lends a one-of-a-kind appeal to this lowland island (peak elevation: 18 feet). Key West inspired Mississippi-born balladeer Jimmy Buffett, and it remains hallowed ground for his followers—the "parrotheads" that roost here throughout the year and keep the mythical utopia of Margaritaville alive. Tennessee Williams, Harry S. Truman, and Ernest Hemingway were also seduced. Defying easy categorization, Key West is capital of the Conch Republic, the tongue-in-cheek micro-nation created in 1982 by residents proud of their liberal lifestyle. Natural sand beaches are surprisingly rare here, but with the chance to snorkel above North America's only living coral reef and enjoy the company of a Technicolor collection of 400 species of tropical fish, it would be a shame to spend your beach time on land, anyway. When you've dried off, head to Mallory Square to catch street performers during the daily Sunset Celebration. Follow it up with brews along the "Duval Crawl," a tour of watering holes in the early 20th-century buildings that line Duval Street. From there, it's a pleasant, 15-minute walk to the Grand Guesthouse (from $98, including breakfast). $$$ 8. PENANG Start your food crawl at stalls that crowd the streets of Georgetown, Penang's largest city and Malaysia's food capital. The delectable fare on offer memorably mingles Malaysian, Chinese, Indian, and European flavors. Foodies in search of supreme bliss should head to the marketplace Ayer Itam—adjacent to Kek Lok Si (the Temple of Supreme Bliss)—to dine on a variety of dishes based on rice, noodles, fish, shellfish, chicken, pork, vegetables, eggs, and coconut. Look for lor bak (deep-fried marinated minced pork served with a chili sauce); lok-lok (skewered seafood, meats, and vegetables); and ikan bakar (grilled or barbecued fish marinated in spices and coconut milk, wrapped inside banana leaves, and grilled over hot coals). The same fusion of cultures is evident in the local architecture, which ranges from modern high-rises to buildings built by 19th-century British colonialists. Add to the mix beach resorts, preserved mangroves, small fishing villages, and a share of temples, mosques, and churches. Kek Lok Si best exemplifies this coexistence. At seven stories, it's the largest Buddhist temple in Southeast Asia, and it reflects the shared values of Mahayana and Theravada Buddhism—designed with a Chinese octagonal base, a Thai-accented middle tier, and a Burmese-style peak. $$  >>Related: 7 Little-Known Islands: Get There First 9. GALÁPAGOS ISLANDS The namesake tortoise is only one reason to explore this archipelago overrun with more than 500 spectacular native species found nowhere else. Charles Darwin's 1835 visit sparked his curiosity, leading to his landmark book and the observation that these islands are the "laboratory of evolution." Much of the biological kaleidoscope noted by Darwin—such as penguins, sea lions, finches, blue-footed boobies—is still visible on the Galápagos, which are scattered more than 600 miles west of Ecuador. Look out for the waved albatross, which has a 7- to 8-foot wingspan, on Española. Tour operators navigate the islands on everything from luxury catamarans to motor yachts, and many employ naturalists to guide you through the archipelago's rocky coasts, lagoons, coral reefs, bays and white sand beaches. Gap Adventures offers small-group itineraries that often include meals, airfare from Quito, and a cabin aboard a 16-passenger ship. Life on the island is only half the equation, so pack your mask, snorkel, and wet suit. $$$$ 10. PALM ISLANDS DUBAI Nature creates and removes islands every day, but it took a supernatural influx of cash and credit to create what developers hope will be the permanent Palm Island archipelago. Based on a sketch by a sheikh, the world's largest man-made islands are being dredged up and put in place as destination resorts: the Palm Jumeirah, Palm Jebel Ali, and Palm Deira. Each work-in-progress is designed to attract tourists, who (more than fossil fuels) can provide a renewable source of income. If all goes well, the three islands will be the focal point of Dubai and become a Middle East playground of spas, resorts, upscale residences, villas, and superior shopping malls. Palm Jumeriah is already in place with an Atlantis resort and its wild water park open and a Trump hotel slated to open in 2011. (A more concrete, if off-island option, is the Arabian Courtyard, whose rooms have hardwood floors and richly colored upholstery, with prices as low as $100 a night.) Some islands might be more exotic—and certainly less expensive—but none are more impossibly engineered and ambitious. $$$$

Destinations

10 Beautiful Castle Hotels

1. ASHFORD CASTLE County Mayo, Ireland With a spectacular setting of 350 acres full of towering woods and tidy gardens along the shores of Lough Corrib, Ashford dates all the way back to 1228. The 83-room gray stone castle was once the property of the Guinness family (yes, as in the beer), so it's practically Irish royalty. Transformed into a five-star luxury hotel in 1939, Ashford has since welcomed celebrities and discriminating travelers alike who come to experience not just exemplary dining and service, but also fresh-air fun: Riding, shooting, archery, and a robust game of golf are just some of the ways to fill your time during a visit here. Double rooms from $139 per person per night, 800/346-7007, ashford.ie. 2. PENTILLIE CASTLE Cornwall, England Built in 1698 by James Tillie, Pentillie Castle has had a fair share of drama—Tillie scandalously married the widow of his employer and still managed to squeeze a knighthood out of King James II. But its checkered past hardly detracts from Pentillie's enviable location on the banks of the River Tamar, not far from Plymouth. The yellow-hued castle is surrounded by gardens bursting with rhododendron, azalea, and camellia flowers, and most of the estate's 2,000 acres is still tenant-farmed, with some woodlands reserved for pheasant hunting. The hotel has nine double rooms, making Pentillie Castle a favorite location for intimate weddings. Double rooms from $75 per person per night (breakfast included), 011/44-1579-350-044, pentillie.co.uk. >> Related: Secret Hotels of Paris 3. CASTLE OF THE FOUR TOWERS Siena, Italy This 807-year-old castle made of red brick has a commanding view of Siena from its hilltop position. Originally built as a private home in the 14th century, the castle's location turned out to be as strategic as it was picturesque, and the building served as a 15th-century fortress during the period of civil strife that the marked the region until peace was restored in the 16th century. Once again a private residence, rooms and suites can now be rented, including a spacious one-bedroom apartment that sleeps up to four people. Visitors can wander the maze in the garden or stroll in the olive groves or vineyards, or hop in the car and tour the rest of sun-kissed Tuscany. From $46.75 per person per night, sleeps up to four people, 011/39-339-497-7999; quattrotorra.it. 4. CHÂTEAU KRASNA LIPA North Bohemia, Czech Republic A nice Czech waltz is the only thing missing from the fairy-tale atmosphere at Château Krasna Lipa, located in Czech Saxon Switzerland. Built in 1886, this fanciful palace has turrets and Juliet balconies; not to mention gracious rooms with 14-foot ceilings, furnished with antiques, hand-carved furniture, and Rococo oil paintings. The surrounding area is home to lush forests that invite romantic souls to discover intricate rock formations—and crystal-clear lakes and rivers—also prime fishing areas. Now a vacation rental, the castle has eight luxury suites with private baths and flat-screen TVs—some suites have walk-out terraces with panoramic views. As with any dream trip, excellent service is a must, and Krasna Lipa delivers: Private tour-guides and interpreters are available to guests, as are pick-ups from Prague airport (80 miles away) or the nearby Decin railway station. Double rooms from $50 per person per night (breakfast included), 1/416-529-1523, romantic-chateau.com. >> Related: Top 10 Weirdest Hotels 5. SCHLOSS SOMMERSDORF Bavaria, Germany Any castle situated just off Germany's famed "Castle Road" has to earn its keep, and 803-year-old Schloss Sommersdorf does so by sheer longevity. The 14th-century structure endured a period of upheaval during the Thirty Years' War in the 17th century, but its graying façade, bricked turret and moat are still standing. Visitors can stay in three apartments or two rooms in the castle proper, or opt for more modern accommodations in the newly renovated Bohemian House, on the castle grounds. On the road between Niederoberbach and Grossenried, Schloss Sommersdorf is ideally located for exploring a portion of the 621-mile Castle Road—and there's a unique fleet of cars available for guests to rent, including a 1905 Cadillac, a 1913 Ford "Tin Lizzie," and a 1926 Durant Rugby R touring model. Double rooms from $56.50 per person per per night (minimum 3-night stay), 011/49-9805-91920, schloss-sommersdorf.de. 6. PARADOR DE CARMONA Andalucia, Spain Being a country with a strong Moorish history, Spain has thousands of castles. Narrow down the options with Paradores of Spain, a website that lists dozens of castles, fortresses, convents, and palaces throughout the country that have been converted into hotels. Our favorite, the 14th-century Arabic-inspired Parador de Carmona, is named for its town, about 18 miles from Seville. Inside, a graceful Moorish courtyard, vaults, and columns combine with antique Spanish furnishings to create a four-star experience reminiscent of times gone by. Deal hunters should check for discounts on multi-night stays (20 percent off) and for seniors (30 percent off). If you'll be exploring the area, consider purchasing the site's five-night card for $699, which is good at almost all Paradores and averages out to a discounted  $139 per night. Double rooms from $112 per person per night, 011/34-95-414-1010, paradoresofspain.com. >> Related: World's Best New Boutique Hotels 7. CHÂTEAU DU PEYRUZEL Aquitaine, France Few castles that saw battle during the Hundred Years' War have come through as elegantly as the Château du Peyruzel, a 13th-century fortress about three miles from the town of Domme in the Dordogne wine region. From its location high on a hill, the château commands a view of the valley below, full of hay bales and cows; windows in all four towers let in copious amounts of sunlight. With massive stone walls hewn from bedrock, a five-story spiral staircase, chestnut floors, and ceiling beams of darkened walnut, the château screams "Middle Ages," but has been equipped with every amenity the 21st century has to offer: a 45-foot-long swimming pool, luxurious bedding and linens, satellite TV and Wi-Fi (and, perhaps most important: indoor plumbing). From $67 per person per night, sleeps up to 14 (reservations available by the week only), 1/916-837-0934; vrbo.com. 8. NEEMRANA FORT-PALACE Delhi, India For those venturing beyond the ancient feudal domains of Europe, there are still castles to be explored, such as this incredible 10-story fortification in Rajasthan, India. Completed in 1464, the Neemrana Fort-Palace's three-acre estate is built in a horseshoe shape into a hillside on the Delhi-Jaipur highway, about 62 miles from Delhi International Airport. The rooms are furnished with traditional Indian and colonial pieces and most have private balconies with views of the 60-mile-high Aravalli mountain range. Within the walls of the fort, guests can take a dip in the vista pool, sign up for free yoga and meditation exercises, or request holistic rejuvenation treatments. Double room from $38.50 per person per night, 011/91-941-405-0068, neemranahotels.com. 9. HOLLYWOOD CASTLE Los Angeles, California Like many things in L.A., the Hollywood Castle is playacting—it was built in the 1970s. But the castle's charm is still tangible, with ivy-covered walls, a moat with a drawbridge, and rooms furnished with suits of armor and huge thrones serving as chairs. Located on a full acre of land just beneath the Hollywood sign, the hotel has eight rooms (some with shared bathrooms) and three patios with 360-degree views of the sparkling city below, plus a Jacuzzi and a nightclub. From $83 per person per night for a two-bedroom, two-bathroom suite that sleeps up to six, 323/868-4076, thehollywoodcastle.com. 10. FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC Québec, Canada Standing high on a bluff overlooking the St. Lawrence River, the turrets and towers of Fairmont Le Château Frontenac are part of the identity of Old Québec, which has been designated a United Nations World Heritage Site. Named after Louis de Buade, Count of Frontenac, who served as governor of New France from 1672 to 1682 (and again from 1689 to 1698), the Château Frontenac proudly displays the Count's coat-of-arms on the outside wall of the entry arch. Though the impressive castle looks positively medieval, the oldest section of the 618-room hotel, the Citadelle, dates back only to 1899. The Fairmont has been a bastion of gracious living ever since, with four-star service and renowned Chef Jean Soulard's in-house restaurant. Double rooms from 6;111 per person per night, 866/540-4460, fairmont.com/frontenac. MORE POPULAR CONTENT: Top 10 Beaches From the Movies Readers' Best Coastline Photos Top Budget Destinations 2011 Vote for America's Coolest Small Towns