Nonstop Mexico

By Zora O'Neill and Jane Onstott
October 28, 2008
0812_nonstopmexico
When you have beach on the brain, who wants to bother with a layover? We've prepared the ultimate insider's guide to seven resort towns south of the border that are just one quick flight away.

MAZATLÁN
As resort towns go, Mazatlán is one of Mexico's prettiest, with an assortment of 19th-century neoclassical, republican, and French baroque buildings in pastel colors. The best place for wandering is Old Mazatlán, particularly the tree-lined streets around Plazuela Machado, where guitarists and singers roam from one sidewalk café to the next. EAT Sample traditional Sinaloan dishes at Pedro & Lola, a restaurant with seating on the square that's known for its Mexican Molcajete, grilled beef served with cactus and onions (011-52/669-982-2589, restaurantpedroylola.com, beef $14). DRINK On nearby Belisario Domínguez street, locals gather nightly for tequila and Pacifico beers at La Tertulia, a bullfighting-themed bar that's owned and staffed by actual bullfighters and has posters, costumes, and pictures of the sport's greats all over the walls (no phone, tequila from $2). STAY Among the hotel options in the area, the 72-room Best Western Posada Freeman Express has the most character—it's in a renovated 1940s high-rise and has a rooftop pool with spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean (011-52/669-985-6060, book.bestwestern.com, from $80). DETOUR To lose the crowds, jump on one of Aqua Sport Center's boats to tiny, uninhabited Deer Island just off the coast—it has a white-sand beach, trails for hiking, and clear waters that are perfect for snorkeling (011-52/669-913-3333, $12).

IXTAPA-ZIHUATANEJO
The twin cities of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo are separated by just three miles, but despite that proximity, they don't have a lot in common. Zihuatanejo, which dates back to precolonial times, is a relaxed fishing town set on an enclosed bay with not a single high-rise hotel. STAY The 30 rooms at the Hotel Brisas del Mar are accented with Mexican tiles and have hammocks on the balconies (011-52/755-554-2142, hotelbrisasdelmar.com, from $102). Ixtapa, in contrast, was built 36 years ago as part of a government effort to spur tourism development on the coast. Today, it has a gleaming strip of beachfront hotels, manicured lawns, and a wide range of restaurants, from local spots to large Mexican chains. EAT El Arbolito serves fresh seafood dishes, such as camaronillasshrimp and cheese in a fried tortilla—and creative cocktails like the Black Banana, a mixture of Kahlua, coconut liqueur, and orange juice (011-52/755-553-3700, entrées from $8). DRINK At Barceló Ixtapa Beach Hotel's Sanca Bar, bands play salsa and Cuban music on weekend nights (011-52/755-555-2000, barcelo.com, beer from $3). DO Ixtapa has no shortage of beaches, but if you're in the mood for some­thing more active, rent a bike at Xplora Adventours (011-52/755-553-3584, $3 per half hour) and take a ride through Parque Ecológico Aztlán, a forest teeming with native birds, turtles, and iguanas.

ACAPULCO
Acapulco got its glamorous start in the 1950s and '60s, when celebrities like Frank Sinatra, Elizabeth Taylor, and Judy Garland turned the exclusive hotels on the rugged cliffs over the bay into their playground. DRINK One of these spots, the 78-year-old Hotel el Mirador, is the place to go for a quintessential Acapulco experience: Watching cliff divers plunge 130 feet into the bay while having a watermelon daiquiri on the patio at the on-site La Perla bar (011-52/744-483-1155, hotelelmiradoracapulco.com.mx, $24 drink minimum). For another side of the city's nightlife, find a dance partner and head to Ninas, a salsa and merengue club where bands play nightly (011-52/744-484-2400, cover $24, with open bar). STAY Close to the city center, One Hotel Acapulco Costera has 126 rooms with simple, Scandinavian-style furniture (800/343-7821, onehotels.com, from $75). EAT The open-air restaurant El Zorrito offers a wide range of regional Guerrero dishes, such as posole, hominy stew with chicken (011-52/744-485-3735, posole $6). DETOUR Eight miles south of downtown Acapulco is one of the most secluded beaches around: Playa Majahua. Swim in the bay and then try the ceviche at one of the tiny shacks set up near the sand.

PUERTO VALLARTA
Puerto Vallarta's art scene doesn't yet rival that of San Miguel de Allende, but it's well on its way: Painters, sculptors, and other artisans have moved to the Pacific-coast resort town in recent years, drawn by the natural beauty of the mountainous coast and the well-preserved colonial architecture in Old Vallarta. SHOP The old town has a number of galleries and boutiques, such as Joyería Yoler, which sells handcrafted silver jewelry (011-52/322-222-8713), and Peyote People, a purveyor of Huichol Indian art (011-52/322-222-2302). SEE Large bronze sculptures by Mexican artists adorn the city's Malecón, the oceanfront boardwalk lined with dozens of restaurants and shops. STAY One of the best hotel options in the area is the Buenaventura Grand Hotel & Spa, which has more than 200 newly renovated rooms—some with beamed ceilings—and a pool overlooking Playa Camarones (011-52/322-226-7000, hotelbuenaventura.com.mx, from $120). EAT Dine on a patio overlooking the beach at nearby El Barracuda, which specializes in seafood dishes like the Dynamite: shrimp, octopus, and tilapia served over rice (011-52/322-222-4034, entrées from $13).

LOS CABOS
Wedged between granite peaks and the water on the tip of Baja California, Los Cabos has one of Mexico's most dramatic settings. But a less-than-thrilling 20-mile-long tourist corridor connects the towns of San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas, making it all the more appealing to choose a town and stick with it. SEE In San José del Cabo's downtown arts district, galleries like Old Town show works by Mexican artists (011-52/624-142-3662, oldtowngallery.net). STAY El Encanto Inn & Suites is decorated in Spanish-colonial style, with chandeliers in the entryway and a fountain in the courtyard—plus, the 28 rooms all have balconies (011-52/624-142-0388, elencantoinn.com, from $95). EAT Set in a hacienda in Cabo San Lucas, La Fonda serves dishes that chef Christopher Chong's grand­mother used to cook, like empanadas with a red chili sauce (011-52/624-143-6926, empanadas $11). DO At Playa Médano in Cabo San Lucas, Andromeda Divers y Mas offers water sports such as sea kayaking and parasailing (011-52/624-143-2765, scubadivecabo.com). DETOUR An hour's drive north of Los Cabos, eclectic shops and galleries have opened in artist-friendly Todos Santos, including the bookstore El Tecolote Libros (011-52/612-145-0295) and Galería de Todos Santos (011-52/612-145-0500, galeriadetodossantos.com).

CANCÚN
Cancún may never shake its reputation as a rowdy college-party destination, but outside of spring-break season, the city is a surprisingly subdued place. The peninsula is where most of the major resorts are located, so if you're looking for character, it's best to head downtown on the mainland. STAY The boutique hotel Sol y Luna has 11 brightly painted rooms, mosaic-trimmed baths, and balconies overlooking Parque de las Palapas (011-52/998-887-5579, solylunahotel.com, from $48). EAT The park is a popular gathering spot for musicians in the evenings; it's also where you'll find one of the city's best restaurants, Labná, which serves Yucatecan dishes such as pibil, achiote-flavored pork wrapped in a banana leaf (011-52/998-892-3056, labna.com, pibil $9). DRINK The aptly named Bling Resto Bar, on the resort peninsula, is just what it sounds like; lounge on the patio with a grape mojito and watch the sun go down over the lagoon (011-52/998-840-6014, blingcancun.com, drinks from $5). DETOUR Xcaret, a sprawling ecological and adventure theme park about 45 minutes south of Cancún, is an ideal spot for families. Activities here range from swimming through caves in an underground river to walking through a butterfly pavilion and watching monkeys, manatees, pumas, and jaguars in their natural environments (011-52/998-883-0470, www.xcaret.com, from $69).

COZUMEL
Surrounded by vibrantly colored coral reefs, the island of Cozumel, 11 miles off the Yucatán coast, has been attracting divers since Jacques Cousteau popularized it in the 1960s. The most central place to be situated for day trips around the island is the town of San Miguel, which has a number of reasonably priced guesthouses. STAY Las Anclas gets high marks not only for its seven bi-level suites and beautiful garden, but also for owners Pedro and Eyal, who are eager to offer up restaurant recommendations (011-52/987-872-5476, lasanclas.com, from $95). EAT A local favorite is La Candela, which serves hearty dishes like chicken stuffed with ham and cheese, and jamaica, a cold tea made from hibiscus flowers (011-52/987-878-4471, chicken $8). DO The tour operator Deep Blue arranges dive trips to some of the hardest-to-reach reefs around the island (011-52/987-872-5653, deepbluecozumel.com, from $68). Or, you can take a boat ride through the mangroves in the Faro Celarain Eco Park for an adventure of a different sort: crocodile spotting (011-52/987-872-1680, cozumelparks.com, $11).

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Trip Coach: October 28, 2008

Gregory Witt: Adventure travel has been a lifelong pursuit for me; one which I love sharing with others, both as a guide and author. Outdoor adventure offers authentic and personally rewarding travel experiences. You'll come face to face with the power of nature, be thrust into unfamiliar environments, and may even leave your comfort zone far behind. But you'll come back richer, stronger, and wiser. So let's start with some questions. _______________________ Baltimore, Md.: Mr. Witt, I'm a birder. But I've never gotten to see a toucan in the wild. Any advice about sea kayaking, maybe in Iceland? And how to make this within the reach of a middle-school teacher (income)?! Many thanks! Gregory Witt: I've long enjoyed and have been mildly interested in birdwatching. Then I went to Costa Rica—BAM—I was hooked—an instant birder! It happens easily in a country with so many exciting tropical species. There are scarlet macaws, trogons, the resplendent quetzal; and with six species of toucans you're almost guaranteed to see one—I saw many in just a few days. In addition to being beautiful and easy to spot, they really have quite a personality and are fun to watch. Costa Rica really is affordable (once the airfare is paid for) and it's easy to travel independently, go to the various national parks and reserves (Carara for macaws, Monteverde for the quetzal, etc), hire a guide at the park entrance and discover an wonderful world of wildlife. Sea kayaking in Iceland is available in Reykjavik on a self-guided rental basis and there are also some excellent guides that can take you up the western coast to Breiafjordur Bay. In addition to Viking history, you'll have some great marine life viewing, including waterbirds like terns, gulls, auks and skuas. Land costs in Iceland are more than Costa Rica, but you can still do it independently and affordably. You may also have an advantage on airfare, since Icelandair often features some attractive packages from JFK. _______________________ Denver, Colo.: Is it at all possible to have a girlfriend getaway that counts as adventure travel? What might be some trips that would be good for me and my friend (early 30s) for trying this? We need some adventure! It'd be bonding! Gregory Witt: I can't imagine anything more bonding that traveling together and exploring common interests, especially in places and activities that engage the mind, body and spirit. Adventure travel doesn't need to be extreme or expensive. For ultimate bonding, try exploring something that's new where you have to depend on each other—for example, whitewater rafting or backpacking. Make sure it's not so far out of your comfort zone that you don't enjoy it. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: I'm in a travel rut. I read Outside, I watch the Travel Channel, I want to climb, I want to paddle wild rivers, but I just don't get off my candy ass. How can I get motivated? Gregory Witt: Start small; start local. Hook up with an outdoor club that has regular outings and different types of activities. The social component is a powerful motivator. Learning a new skill is also a great motivator. For example, just a couple hour from LA your have arguably the greatest rock climbing destination in the world at Joshua Tree, where there is a rock climbing school that offers classes and fun group instructions. The Kern River, is also nearby, and one of the best places in the world to learn whitwater kayaking. Go for it. Adventure is not a spectator sport. _______________________ Washington, D.C.: You must wear out your boots pretty fast. What is your recommendation to a weekend warrior who'd like to do some modest hiking in stable, supportive, comfortable boots-- how to pick a pair of boots, etc. I'd like to hike the Shenandoah... Gregory Witt: I walk hundreds of miles each year on local trails in Utah's Wasatch Mountains. Then I take off in July and August to guide in the Alps for my company (Alpenwild.com) where I'll typically do a couple hundred miles on the Haute Route and in the Jungfrau. I wear out my hiking shoes faster than I wear out my car tires. Still, the key is comfort—and since every foot is different, no one brand will work for everyone. I have a wide foot with a high arch and instep so I also add an arch support to my shoe. In terms of shoe components like a Vibram sole because it's sturdy and has some "gription" on rock surfaces. I also like an EVA midsole. I wear a low-cut shoe on any trail surface, but many people prefer a mid-cut boot for the added ankle support—it's a matter of personal preference and your call. And don't forget the socks. I find a good wool sock with a bit of synthetic in the blend add a lot to the cushioning, breathability, and comfort of any shoe. _______________________ Burlington, Vt.: What are the misconceptions about ice climbing, in terms of how fit you have to be to safely try it? Gregory Witt: Perhaps the greatest misconception is that it is impossibly difficult. In fact, I find it easier and less physically challenging than climbing a similarly pitched rock face. Go initially with an expert teacher or someone with plenty of experience who can instruct you in the elements of balance, pick placement and anchors. Rent your equipment and try some different types. But once on the ice, I think you'll get the hang of it and be able to decide if it's for you. The other misconception? That your hands will stay warm. My fingers always seem to get cold—even numb. I still need to work on that. _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: When I think of adventure travel, I think $$$. How can adventure travel be affordable? Ideas domestically? Gregory Witt: There are certainly some pricey high-end options that are gear-intensive (kiteboarding, heliskiing, and windsurfing come to mind) but for less than a tank of gas you can find some wonderful hiking trails wherever you live. A canoe or sea kayak can be a modest investment or an inexpensive rental, and can open up thousands of miles of nearby paddle trails to your use. I purchased both my first pair of cross-country skis and snowshoes on close-out for less than $50 and they've still given me hundreds of miles of use. Even for an extended vacation, a guided river trip or a fully outfitted backcountry experience is no more expensive than staying in a hotel, and eating meals in restaurants. Specific ideas domestically for a week long vacation? Paddling in the Everglades or the Boundary Waters, hiking in the Colorado or Glacier National Park, canyoneering or hiking in southern Utah or the Grand Canyon. Even outside the US, a week of sea kayaking in the Sea of Cortez or a river trip in Canada is accessible and affordable. _______________________ Dallas, Tex.: I'm curious about cloud forests. What are they? Why are they worth visiting? Gregory Witt: Cloud forests are generally tropical montane forests which exist within a narrow band of altitude. They are characterized by a lingering fog or mist. In addition to many unusual plant species such as epiphytes, you're also likely to find interesting and endemic animal species. Some of the best and most accessible cloud forests in the Western Hemisphere can be found in Costa Rica (Monteverde and Santa Elena), Jamaica (Blue Mountains), and Honduras (Celaque National Park). In each of these areas you can spend the better part of the day exploring the cloud forest with a local guide and naturalist, discovering new plants and animals. It's great fun for all ages. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Every year seems to have its hot trend in adventure travel. What do you expect will be the buzz in 2009? Gregory Witt: My crystal ball says that there are some great rivers in southern China—the Mekong and others—that will come to the forefront now that the gorges of the Yangtze are out of play. Same could be said for the Sun Kosi and the Karnali in Nepal. All of them are also a good value—once you get there. Also the recent introduction of high quality, low cost sea kayaks makes me think there are some great adventures close to home that need to be explored. Maybe Isle Royale National Park or Washington State's San Juan Islands will become hotspots. _______________________ New York City, N.Y.: Congrats on your new book. I'd like to learn canyoneering. What is the best way to master the basics (recommended schools, tour organizations, outfitters, videos, etc.)? Thanks! Gregory Witt: You can have a great 4-7 days (or more) of canyoneering in Southern Utah. Zion National Park has some spectacular wet and dry canyons to explore. And off-the-beaten-path Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument has literally hundreds of hidden slot canyons. I'd recommend going with an experienced guide, one certified by the American Canyoneering Association (Excursions of Escalante is an excellent choice). They can tailor an itinerary based on you skill, interests, and time. Slot canyons offer some exciting challenges and fun adventures, but they are filled with hidden dangers, and lives have been lost (2 people died just 6 weeks ago south of Escalante in a flash flood in Egypt 3 Canyon) so go with experience and safety on your side. _______________________ Austin, Tex.: My husband and I are planning a trip to Antartica, December 2009-January 2010. We were hoping for a cruise from Argentina for about 16 days with as much time on the continental as possible. The choices seem really overwhelming. Is there a way to compare? We want a ice hardening boat that holds about 100 passengers, excellent nature guides and lots of time on shore. The accommodations need to be comfortable but not fancy. We are looking for a good value. Suggestions? Thanks, Kathy Gregory Witt: Wow. I envy you. Antarctica is the ultimate frontier. And yes, make sure you go for one that offers sufficient land experiences with a focus on wildlife encounters. In such a pristine environment, keep environmental protection and safety in mind. Check with the International Association of Antarctica Tour Operators (iaato.org). Their members are committed to high standards and professional practices. And while the choice is still yours, they can help clarify some of the options and connect you with some experienced and reputable operators. You're virtually guaranteed of having a great experience. _______________________ Branson, Mo.: I'm trying to organize a Kilimanjaro climb for Sept. 2009 for a small group of 10 or less. The American companies are overcharging for the actual climb. Is it safe to go with an African company such as DAT? Also, I'm having trouble finding reasonable flight fairs. Any way to book less expensive international flights, or is there a company that will do a package deal at a reasonable rate? Gregory Witt: For Kilimanjaro, permits, ground transportation, guides and porter can all be arranged on your own in Arusha, but I wouldn't recommend it. Working with a reputable safari company (either US or African-based) that has a solid reputation on Kili is recommended. They will be focused on your safety and well-being and they will be supported by dedicated on-site staff who are treated fairly. This eliminates the logistical headaches and risks. Choosing a less congested route like the Machame or Umbwe also can allow for better acclimatization, better scenery, and increase your chances of summit success. I know one leading US operator, and while their prices are higher than African companies, they have their own operations in Arusha, they have their own local staff of dedicated guides, porters, and cooks who have been with them for many years, and are well paid and fairly treated. As a result, they offer a high level of service, an exceptional experience on the trail, and have one of the highest summit success rates on the mountain. _______________________ Gregory Witt: As I expected, Budget Travel readers dished out some great questions. I hope my answers gave you some fresh ideas and insights, and inspired you to go explore, discover, get your heart pumping and your mind aroused. Be safe.

Transylvania's Revamped Guesthouses

Count Kálnoky's Estate Descendents of 13th-century Count Vincent Kálnoky have carefully restored four cottages with woodstoves, antique furniture, and thick wool mattresses. A one-time bread oven has been transformed into a sauna, and candlelit dinners are served in the 17th-century wine cellar. Guests can take part in traditional activities: blacksmithing, cooking specialties like kürtös kalács—dough wrapped around a wooden rod and baked over an open fire—and tracking wild boar and red deer in the forests surrounding the quiet farming village of Miklósvár. There are bat caves nearby, and on Halloween, locals celebrate with a bonfire and gypsy dancing. Fall foliage lasts until the end of October, when, as Count Tibor Kálnoky puts it, "Everything will be green, brown, yellow to blood red." transylvaniancastle.com, doubles from $104, packages from $1,150 per week per person including lodging, all meals, and excursions. Casa Wagner It's a five-hour train ride north from Bucharest to Sighisoara, Vlad's birthplace. This wonderfully preserved, fortified town is filled with narrow cobblestoned streets, medieval row houses, and Gothic churches. Facing the main square, Casa Wagner has 32 elegant rooms, some with hardwood floors and vaulted ceilings. For Halloween, a special Dracula dinner of pan-fried chicken livers, tomato soup, beef fillet, and hot brandy can be arranged in the wine cellar. About 20 miles west lies the 13th-century fortress of Biertan, one of Europe's best-preserved defensive strongholds. casa-wagner.com, doubles from $72, Dracula dinner $33 per person. Bastion Hotel The small resort town of Sinaia grew up around a monastery at the foothills of the Bucegi Mountains, which swarm with skiers come winter. In the late 1800s, Romania's first king, Carol I, retreated to Sinaia's opulent Peles Castle, his summer residence. The former royal stables have recently been converted into the cheery 12-room Bastion Hotel. (Interior columns and hefty wooden doors from the stables' entrance are still visible.) Wander over to the castle, gussied up with silk brocades, marble staircases, and frescoes by the likes of Gustav Klimt; 500-year-old Cordovan leather lines the walls of the Imperial Suite. An hour-long drive brings you to 14th-century Bran Castle—dubbed Dracula's Castle because of legends that Vlad slept atop this rocky crag. hotelbastion.ro, doubles from $102; Peles Castle is closed each November for preservation work. Zabola Estate The old machine house of the 16th-century castle of Count Mikes (Mikes is pronounced mee-kesh) sits on 85 acres of private parkland. Its six jewel-toned rooms feature plush curtains, private bathrooms, and rustic touches. Try your hand with a bow and arrow, or set out on a guided 4x4 excursion or a trip to a nearby volcanic lake, which, according to local lore, is filled with the tears of virgins. Autumn is prime time for spying brown bears. "The forests of the estate are considered the best spot for bears in Transylvania," says Zsolna RoyChowdury-Ugron, the wife of one of Count Mikes's descendants. "So far, everybody who attends our tour sees bears." zabola.com, doubles from $116 with breakfast, three-course lunch or dinner $22; self-drive bear tour from $14 or from $22 with transport. Thirsting for More? Transylvania Live runs eight Dracula-themed tours lasting anywhere from five hours to 10 days. A raucous Halloween costume party in Sighisoara, a witch trial based on medieval rituals, or a tasting of Vlad's favorite wine could wind up being the highlight of your next trip to Romania. visit-transylvania.us, from $189 for the five-hour tour or from $360 for a two-day tour including meals and accommodations.

Trip Coach: October 21, 2008

Alexis Kelly: Hi everybody. This is Alexis Kelly, editor of Fodor's guide to Tahiti & French Polynesia. Thanks for taking the time to submit your questions. Tahiti and its sister islands of French Polynesia are magical. Overwater bungalows! Shooting the pass! Swimming with the fishes! Turquoise blue waters with exquisite pink coral! It's all amazing. I do hope I can provide the guidance that will help to make your dream of traveling there a reality. So, let's get started. _______________________ Ocala, Fla.: I am wondering about a more active vacation package in Polynesia, such as a bicycle tour on several islands. (I understand most islands aren't big enough for!several days of riding.) Does such an option exist, or is it mostly beachtime and shopping? Alexis Kelly: Trips to Polynesia are actually much more active than you'd think. While there are beaches and some shopping, it's all about exploring the outdoors here—by land and by sea. No matter what island you're staying on, numerous tour operators offer 4WD tours that explore the islands. While a little bumpy, these tours (sometimes in air conditioned vehicles) will take you to places that you wouldn't otherwise find on foot or in your own car. Sometimes they even include lunch or stops in the different towns for some shopping or exploring. Most trips are a few hours. All the usual aquatic activities—diving, snorkeling, fishing, boating, Jet Skiing—are also available, and there are also plenty of tour operators that will take surfers and body boarders to the legendary surf breaks. If you do want to bike, most accommodations (large and small) will have bikes on hand for guests to use or, can point you in the direction of the local bike rental place; these rental places usually also rent out scooters. The outer coastal roads that ring most of the islands are fairly easy to bike around. On Moorea, factor in a full day to bike around the islands 37-mile Coastal Road. On Bora Bora, figure about 4 hours to bike the island's 20-mile Coastal Road. _______________________ Manassas, Va.: We would like to take a trip to Tahiti and islands this time, next year. Is this a good time weather-wise and would you advise on whether to cruise the islands or pick a couple to spend time at? If staying on a couple of islands, which hotels would you recommend? If we stayed, it would be for perhaps a little looking around, but mainly, some downtime/relaxation. Thank you! Alexis Kelly: This time of year is a great time to travel to the Society Islands (Tahiti, Bora Bora, Moorea, etc.). This is their winter or the dry season (October-May). It's never cold, and has less humidity and rainfall and people. The water temperature of the lagoons is a fairly constant 77 degrees F (25 degrees C). Lovely, right? Always be prepared for a mixed bag though. You could get perfectly dry days in the wet season and rainy days in the dry season. That's the beauty of the tropics. If you want to see a few of the islands, I suggest cruising; it's really the perfect way for the first time to experience the area. Not only is it the more economical alternative to a land-based holiday—you'll visit four islands in seven days, some of which would be extremely expensive to stay at on your own—there no planes or buses to catch, which means more time to enjoy the holiday. And that sounds like exactly what you're looking for. Most of the shore excursions are add-ons, which means you don't have to do them if you don't want to. Maybe you feel like going to the shark-feeding and motu picnic on one, but at the next stop you just want to relax and laze about. It's all up to you. You could even do your own thing in port like renting bikes or a car to explore the island. And don't worry about downtime. The islands all operate on what's fondly called "island time." So it's good to arrive with a laid back, easy going manner. _______________________ Viera, Fla.: Hello. My fiance and I are getting married in April '09 and we want to go to Tahiti in June for our honeymoon. we have done some research on prices and it is way too expensive for our budget. We were wondering if there is any way that we can still go on the honeymoon of our dreams to Tahiti without breaking the bank? Please help! —Bride-to-Be Alexis Kelly: First things first. Congratulations! I wish you both the best of luck and many happy days together. Now, on to the planning. Tahiti is the picture perfect place for a honeymoon, and it certainly will be a trip you will never forget. However, the time of year may be a bit tough as the end of June does get a bit sticky and the crowds do begin to swell. If you're going towards the beginning of the month, you may be okay and as weather is an unpredictable thing, so you could have no problems at all. Just keep that in mind. While the destination's remote location does makes it a very expensive place, there are ways to save money. As I said to reader from Manassas, Va., cruising is the most economical way to experience this area. You'll cover more ground and there's nothing like gliding across the calm blue waters, watching the islands come into view, and exploring the different lagoons and beaches. By land you might only be able to afford to see one island in 7 days, by sea you could see four different ones. Another plus? You won't have to worry about transportation, crowds, or really anything. If you don't want to cruise, consider staying in a pension or guesthouse, rather than a resort. Pensions and guesthouses are usually family-run and offer cheaper rates that include the half-board option (breakfast and dinner) or the option to self-cater (buy and prepare your own food in the on-site, communal kitchen). Some are quite charming and provide beautifully located, private accommodations. However, with inexpensive rates can come basic facilities (like no warm water), close proximity to other guests, shared bathrooms, etc. Not ideal for your romantic trip as newlyweds, but you will be together and could meet some really interesting people. Renting a villa is also an option and one that would give you your own space. There are a few villas for rent on Bora Bora (with a view of the lagoon) that sleep two and range in price from $1899 to $2560 a week. On the high-end, it's about $350 per night, which is on the expensive side, but with your own kitchen you can self-cater, sleep in, and make your own rules. Also, try dining at the roulottes instead of a pricey restaurant. These mobile food vans sell chicken, crepes, steak, and the traditional poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk). They usually open around 6 p.m., and you can pull up a stool to eat or do take away. Some vans will even allow you to bring your own alcohol; just make sure you ask first. You could also consider going to an island other than Tahiti. • Moorea has the greatest range of budget accommodations (camping, self-catering, pensions, small hotels) and there are numerous restaurants nearby that allow you to dine according to your budget. • Huahine has great villa-car-boat rental deals and there are reasonably priced restaurants and roulottes in Fare. • There are no resorts on Maupiti, 25 miles west of Bora Bora, which eliminates the expensive option and most of its accommodations include the half-board (breakfast and dinner) option. There are very few excursions, but those that do exist will be cheaper than on other islands. This lack of options and lack of people might be exactly what you're looking for. And check out Airtahiti.com. They are always offering amazing packages. If you can find a cheap flight from Orlando to New York's JFK, you might be able to make it work. _______________________ Atlanta, Ga.: Help. I would like to visit Australia and Tahiti, and limit my trip to 15 days. I would like to keep the price below $2,500. Is that possible? What time of year is it most affordable to travel to this area? Alexis Kelly: I hate to break it to you, but I don't think it's possible to keep this type of trip under $2,500. The airfare alone could cost that much. I did see recently that Qantas was offering an economy ticket from NY's JFK to Sydney for about $1000 roundtrip. They were also offering special deals with American Airlines for connecting flights from other US cities to get to NYC, but none of the cities were Atlanta. So this means you still have to get to NYC, and then get to Tahiti once you're in Sydney. And then you have to stay somewhere, eat something, and maybe even leave your room to see some sights. It all adds up! For this type of trip, I would figure around $3,500 for flight and accommodation, but again that does not include food. See what a travel agent, Air Tahiti Nui, or maybe even Qantas can come up with. Air Tahiti Nui offers stopover packages from LA to Sydney, with the option to stay in Tahiti for 2-4 nights (a longer stay is an additional cost), but I would suggest calling them directly (or checking out their web site) to see what they have to offer. I know calling a travel agent seems so archaic, but they do know of great packages and can do all of the research and leg work for you. They may even be aware of deals before they are published. As for the most affordable time to travel, anytime between October and May will give you great weather and a good price. July and August are the most expensive and worst weather times. _______________________ Honolulu, Hawaii: We vacationed in Tahiti in 1983, and it was truly our "dream" vacation. I'd love to go back, but we don't see airfare deals from Hawaii. It appears that all of the specials are on Air Tahiti Nui out of Los Angeles. Any suggestions for economy airfare? Alexis Kelly: I hate to sound so repetitive, but Air Tahiti Nui really does have the most competitive packages. But alas, as you said, they only fly out of LA (or NYC in the high season). Hawaiian Airlines has great service and they do fly between Honolulu and Pape'ete, but may be a little more pricey, while United and America are probably the most competitive price wise for flights between Honolulu and Pape'ete. _______________________ Honolulu, Hawaii: We are planning a trip to Bora Bora and staying at the Bora Bora Nui resort and spa. We are looking for suggestions for dive charters companies to dive 4 days in a row. Also, are there any must-see things on Tahiti as we will have 1.5 days there layover in and out of Bora Bora. Thanks. Alexis Kelly: Perfect choice! Bora Bora Nui has some incredible snorkeling right off its bungalows and the resort's location on Motu Toopua puts you fairly close to the Manta Pass and Eagle Channel dive sites. I would suggest contacting either Bora Diving Center or Nemo World (you can research both at boradiving.com). Both are located in Matira and are PADI certified. I believe they can pick you up at your resort too. I would also try contacting your hotel to see who they recommend. They may offer packages or deals and sometimes resorts have their own dive centers on the property. As for Tahiti sightseeing, you'll be flying in and out of Pape'ete, which is the largest town in French Polynesia. And while it's not a metropolis on the scale of New York, it is a bustling city center. The plus? All of the must-see sites are located along Boulevard Pomare, the town's main road, which stretches for about 2 miles along the waterfront. You can have a lovely, leisurely stroll and take just about everything in. Make sure you check out the beautiful, buttercup-yellow Notre Dame Cathedral and Marche de Pape'ete, the town's public market. The market is a great place to pick up souvenirs like vanilla and woven hats and baskets. Place Tarahoi, which is now home to French Polynesia's territorial government, was once the home of Tahiti's 19th-century royal family. The buildings and gardens are lovely. I'd also stop by the Robert Wan Pearl Museum. You can see all sorts of pearl encrusted items, do a little pearl shopping, and take a guided tour—free guided tours are offered for two or more people with five days notice. Make sure you grab a bite to eat at one of the 30 roulettes (mobile food trucks) that open up around 6 pm nightly at Place Vaiete, which is pretty much the heart of the city. The food is great and inexpensive, and its a great place to people watch. If you want to do something more active and get out of the "city," most tour operators offer half day options that explore the inner island or coastal road. You could sign up for a half-day 4wd tour that will take you into the island past waterfalls and lakes; you might even get to see the blue-eyes eels in Vaihiria Lake! Or, for the less adventurous, there's circle-island tour that will take you around the big island in an air-conditioned minibus. There's also horse-back riding, hiking...the list goes on and on. _______________________ New York, N.Y.: We are arriving in Papeete late in the evening. What's the best way to get to our hotel (Sofitel Maeva), which does not provide transfer service? Also, do the taxis accept US dollars? Alexis Kelly: Lucky for you there's a L'Truck stop across the street from the Sofitel Maeva. Taking L'Truck is a bit of an adventure, as the passenger seats are long benches that face each other in the open-sided back, but they are cheap and a great way to get around. You'll want to take the red and white buses that travel the west side of the island. You can catch them behind the market in Rue du Marechal Foch. They run Monday through Friday 6 a.m.-midnight. Unfortunately, there's limited service on Saturday and none on Sunday. The fare should be about 200 CFP for a one-way trip at night. If this doesn't work with your schedule, taxis are available. You can catch taxis at the airport, at stands near Pape'ete's Centre Vaima, or just flag them down along the road. However, they are a very expensive way to get around. It will cost around 3,000 CFP (or about US$30) to go only a few miles. And yes, unfortunately you will have to exchange your US$ for francs or CFP. There is an ATM at the airport, and that will give you the best exchange rate. _______________________ Alexis Kelly: Unfortunately, that's all the time we have today. Thanks so much for all of the great questions. I hope your trips to the South Pacific are wonderful. Don't forget to pick up Fodor's Tahiti & French Polynesia, 1st edition; it goes on sale October 21.

Readers' Money-Saving Tips

Below you'll find some of our favorite tips. You can check out the whole list—and add your own—here. (60+ comments) WHERE AND WHEN TO GO Jessica had a simple but effective tip: "Travel in the off season!" Similarly, Lili wrote, "I highly endorse off-season, mid-week traveling. I've always planned my trips during these times and have yet to be disappointed. Seriously, prices are too good to pass up. I once paid $250 RT from NYC to London during December. It was actually warmer in London than it was in New York." Victor saves money "by choosing destinations where I don't need to rent a car: Miami and Washington, D.C., were two recent examples." For airfare and hotel bargains, Moren Andersen praised so-called metasearch engines, which "scan the web across hundreds of travel websites simultaneously" and "give an overview of the cheapest flights. This means that hours of searching can be replaced with one search on one site with an even better result!" His favorites included Momondo, Mobissimo, and Kayak. He added that you should "remember to search several of these search engines to make sure that you find the best fare." Melissa Woods pointed out that "good planning is a time saver. In addition, she saves money "by cutting vacations short a few days and condensing my sightseeing. It seems faster paced, but cutting one day or more could mean I saved $100 or more per day." And Cara agreed that you can save money by "researching your destination" before you go. "A well planned day saves you time, effort, and unexpected expenses (e.g., [having to take a] taxi ride across town to the Louvre before it closes)." "Read blogs, boards, and the like to get hints on cheap/free things to do, cheap modes of transport, etc. Look for off-the-beaten track activities that usually don't cost much, if anything. For example, I attended a great organ concert in Westminster Abbey for about 5 pounds, and it was performed by the current organist for the church—amazing!!" AIRFARES Wandermom said to "search for airfares well before you want to travel (i.e. 6+ months) and watch the fares regularly. Fares on the same route change over time. The trick is to buy your seats at or near the low point. Tools like Farecast can help with this." LODGING Kenneth suggested a little low-effort price comparison and bargaining. "When attempting to find the lowest hotel prices online, get a price from the major online travel agencies and then call the hotel directly and inquire about the price. Most often they will honor the online site prices, except for [offers from] the auction or bidding sites, [such as] Priceline and Hotwire. Being a member of AAA, CAA, AARP or having a coupon from the Entertainment Value Book helps also." Priceline came in for praise several times. Victor added that "sites like BetterBidding can help you bull's-eye your bids" and "become an expert" at getting good hotel deals. Lisa Siverman mentioned that her daughter "has used "CouchSurfing to connect with a number of places to stay for free. This tends to be something that young people would be more comfortable with!" For herself, she added, "Occasionally, if the airport is not far from the city, we will stay [near it] for the cheap rates and choose [a hotel] with a free shuttle." Wandermom weighed in with a family-travel tip: "Book hotels with breakfast included. It's amazing how long a kid can go with a good breakfast. Reduces total food costs." (She has more family travel tips on her own website.) Char's family travel idea was to "look into cabins at state parks or RVs at travel parks. Some RV parks have onsite trailers to rent by the night or week. Some even have separate bedrooms and you can cook and snack out your own kitchen. Cheap or free entertainment at parks can include canoes, horseback riding, put-put golf, and movies." FOOD Steve D chooses "hotels that offer a kitchenette and outdoor grills. We bring food from home and cook it ourselves. Local restaurants may lose some of our dollars but we still get to travel and sightsee." Char recommended eating out at lunchtime rather than at dinner: That way, you "often get the same food at much lower prices. If you have a nice lunch, you can have fruit, crackers, and cheeses for your evening meal." In a similar vein, Angelina recommended checking out restaurants' happy hour menus. "Sometimes they'll offer a smaller portion of their specialty dishes for a fraction of the cost. You might have to eat a little earlier (around 4pm-7pm) and at the bar, but [you'll have] more opportunities to mingle with locals. Do a search online for the city's best happy hours!" If a happy hour isn't for you, maybe you'll want to eat out beyond restaurant doors. "Street food rules!" wrote Lili. "It's local cuisine, food of the people, and often delicious and inexpensive. Just look for the lines of people, because if it's bad food or questionable, people will not be lining up to get more." She also adds that supermarkets are "great for food and souvenirs." She packs "plastic forks and spoons for yogurt, ice cream, cakes, etc." And when in Europe, "live like a European," wrote Mike. "Shop at the market, and do your own cooking in your apartment. Most apartments come stocked with staples so you can get through the first couple of days without buying hardly ANY food. Save the restaurants for a splurge...you'll appreciate them all the more! When on the go in Italy, grab street food, pizza, sandwiches, etc...as long as you DON'T SIT DOWN in the place you buy them, you'll save a ton. And once more, when you DO sit down for that nice restaurant meal (which we did once per city) you'll appreciate it completely! Despite the fact that we walked everywhere within the cities, I still GAINED weight on my Italy trip, I ate so well!" Lisa Siverman wrote, "I eat two meals a day when traveling. We make coffee in the room or tea (I bring my own tea bags, just in case) and we get a bagel or croissant in the morning, and then stop for a lunch that costs around $20 for two—usually a salad or sandwich...For dinner we find somewhere cheap by looking on various websites or by bringing stuff into the room." You may even be able to score some free food while on vacation. Katie wrote: "Check out the weekly local newspapers (like RedEye or the Chicago Reader, The Stranger, Time Out, and websites like going.com and yelp.com (or just hit Google) for free events and happy hour deals." TAKING THINGS A STEP FURTHER... There were also some tips that we're not so sure we'd try ourselves. That said, they definitely embody the super-cheap lifestyle, and we salute their creators' ingenuity. Stephanie uses a hotel clothes iron to heat up leftovers: She leans the iron against the wall and puts a slice of old pizza on it (presumably with something covering the iron's base). In addition, "Don't forget that you can make soup, rice, etc., in the coffee pot." We can't forget this one because we never knew it was possible—but we're glad to know now. For the curious, a YouTube video showing how to make ramen soup with a drip coffee maker is here. Finally, although several people mentioned taking a cooler along to save money when traveling, Michael pointed out that you can often avoid having to even pay for ice. "Stock it from home at first, then at motels as you travel," he wrote. "Even nature provides ice. I've used snow, glaciers, and even hail to fill my cooler, all during July. Having a cool soft drink as you drive, or adult drink at the end of the day is wonderful." You'll get no argument from us on that that last point.