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Paris: Eating on the wild side

By Meg Zimbeck
October 3, 2012
blog_redpartridgechezmichel_original.jpg
Courtesy Meg Zimbeck

Once upon a time in France, hunting was a privilege reserved for nobility. Forbidden from la chasse, everyday people were powerless to procure the woodland creatures that scampered around them. Prohibition gave rise to a serious proclivity—a sort of national longing for tail.

This pent-up desire was unleashed in 1789, when the French Revolution granted hunting rights to all citizens. Chefs and family cooks alike were suddenly free to serve the sauvage. Centuries later, the consumption of wild things continues unabated.

To cater to this national obsession, most traditional restaurants serve game during the autumn-and-winter season. Some cheat with frozen supplies. But no shortcuts are taken in restaurants serving haute cuisine. Places like Taillevent and Guy Savoy take extreme pride in their selection and preparation of gibiers (wild game). But for those who don't have money to burn (the cheapest dinner menu here costs around €300/$385), here are some other addresses where you can taste this tradition at a bargain price.

Le P'tit Bougnat: One of the least expensive options, Le P'tit Bougnat has more game than Justin Timberlake. Menus start at €17 ($21) and feature partridge, pheasant, and wild boar, all served with classic sides like blueberries and chestnuts or pears cooked in wine. 118 boulevard de Courcelles, 17th arrondissement, 011-33/1-47-63-97-11.

Le Repaire de Cartouche: The name translates roughly as "hunter's hideaway," signalling Rodolphe Paquin's affinity for cooking the freshly caught. A reasonably good restaurant year-round, this place becomes a sure shot during game season. 8 boulevard des Filles-du-Calvaire, 11th arrondissement, 011-33/1-47-00-25-86.

Chez Michel: Thierry Breton is a master fish cook, but also likes to show off during game season. His good-value blackboard menu includes forest friends for a small supplement. Save room for dessert because his Paris-Brest is the best in the city. 10 rue de Belzunce, 10th arrondissement, 011-33/1-44-53-06-20.

La Régalade: Help yourself from the sideboard to a slice of game terrine with onion confit, then settle back to ponder your choice between partridge, wood pigeon and wild boar stew. This convivial and inexpensive bistro is a favorite among locals and tourists alike. 49 avenue Jean-Moulin, 14th arrondissement, 011-33/1-45-45-68-58.

Le Cerisaie: This restaurant is the size of a shoebox and always packed with dedicated diners. Specializing in the cooking of southwest France, Cyril Lalanne is also something of a game nut. Try his pâté of mixed game in a crust, served with sour cherry preserves. 70 boulevard Edgar Quinet, 14th arrondissement, 011-33/1-43-20-98-98.

Selection of game at these, or any other Paris restaurant, will vary according to what's being hunted in the moment. Birds appear early in the fall and are followed by rabbit and later deer. Some of the most common gibier that feature on restaurant menus are translated for you here.

Flying Game

becasse - woodcock

caille – quail

canard - duck

caneton - young male duckling

canette - young female duckling

colvert –wild mallard duck

faisan - pheasant

grouse – grouse

palombe - wood pigeon

perdrix, perdreau - partridge

pigeon -pigeon

Hopping Game

lievre - hare

lapin - rabbit

lapereau - young rabbit

Hoofing Game

biche - doe, young female deer

cerf - stag, older male deer

chevreuil - young male deer

bison - bison

caribou - caribou

sanglier - wild boar

marcassin - young wild boar

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