Picking on Paris and other "overrated" cities
In a move so shameless I wish I'd thought of it myself, professional traveler/TV host Leon Logothetis fought against the post-Thanksgiving doldrums of the Los Angeles Times with a "special package" listing five cities he found particularly overrated. Athens, Paris, Prague, Dubai, and Moscow all get slammed—often for their residents' poor social skills. And rain. Seriously.
Predictably, the comments are as cranky and funny and anecdotal and unfair as the article itself. Here's a sample:
- "[Honolulu is a] thin veneer of beachfront overdevelopment fronting a slum with wretched roads"
What places would you put on your own shortlist of the overrated? And (just as important) which do you think aren't overrated at all?
Gear: A new wheelie bag arrives
Just in time for holiday travel, Timbuk2 is rolling out its first wheelie bag. Appropriately called the Checkpoint, the lightweight 22-inch carryon is part of the company's travel collection for Spring 2009. Made of the same durable ballistic nylon as the company's signature messenger bag, the Checkpoint weighs less than eight pounds. The front pocket provides easy access to your one-quart Ziploc bag of toiletries when you're going through airport security. Check out this video to see the other features, including a hidden pocket for your jewelry. I especially like how the bag has handles on all four sides, so you can stash it in the overhead luggage compartment in any direction. The Checkpoint is available at timbuk2.com for delivery before Christmas. The bag, which comes in brown, black, and green, will be in retail stores starting in January. Today is the last day to place orders for free ground shipping. Otherwise expect to add from $14 for shipping. Timbuk2.com, $250.
A few good links: Amsterdam cleaning up its act
A few travel stories that caught my eye this past week: Tiny Texas town is heading to Las Vegas for vacation. It's free—but the citizens have to appear in Sin City tourism ads. [AP via Yahoo] Amsterdam to close sex shops, brothels, marijuana cafes The mayor's plan would "cut the sex windows and marijuana cafes by more than half." [Tripso] Passports with Purpose Travel bloggers holding a raffle to benefit Heifer International. [Wanderlust and Lipstick] Europe's Christmas markets The Christmas market is "for Nuremberg what the Oktoberfest is for Munich." [Christian Science Monitor] Five things I hate about airports Surprisingly, "lack of decent seats" didn't make the list. [Travel Rants] Personalized in-flight mags at Heathrow HSBC is running an airport promotion that lets you pick from a bunch of articles to make your own ideal mag. But will it end up being more entertaining than flipping through SkyMall? [Springwise] Is there a "Flat Tire Rule"? On some airlines, if you show up less than two hours late because of a flat tire or similar emergency, they'll put you on standby without a fee. [Airfarewatchdog]
Budget travel tips from a man who visited 16 countries for free
Alex Boylan, who won CBS's The Amazing Race 2, knows how to push the bounds of budget travel. Alex's latest project is Around the World for Free. For half of the year, he and a video producer traveled the world as backpackers, reporting in for regular live appearances on the CBS Early Show. Viewers were told to visit the website AroundTheWorldForFree.com and tell Alex where he should travel next. The goal was for him to rely on the kindness of strangers and not pay for any part of his trip. Now Alex and his team have edited the video shot during the journey through 16 countries—from the rural parts of the Dominican Republic through the backstreets of Calcutta to Kenya during political unrest. The resulting TV series will air on WGN America, starting in January. I recently spoke with Alex about what he and his producer Zsolt Luka witnessed and learned, plus his advice for budget travelers. Here's what he had to say: Money can be a crutch that insulates yourself from cultural immersion. While what I was doing was unusual, the same rule applies to everyone. When you’re traveling cheaply, you’re forced to interact with the locals and really put yourself out there emotionally day after day, and that’s the truly broadening part of travel. To find out where’s the best restaurant or the liveliest bar, ask a local, ask a local, ask a local. It's a cliché but its true. It's the critical piece here, but when you're traveling, don't ask the hotel concierge and don’t ask the leader of your walking tour or the information desk for the tourist office. During my trip, I would be asking someone—like the lady behind the counter making the tacos—“where do you go for dinner” or “where do you go for fun.” She didn’t know who I was and there was no camera equipment around or anything unusual about me. I was just a 30-year old from out of town. And she gave me great advice. Locals will just naturally guide you to the most authentic experiences and culture. On our trip taping this show, we walked from Thailand to Cambodia, walking down dusty roads, a monk with broken English invited us into a hut. It was spontaneous generosity. When we were in the Maasai Mara in Kenya and Tanzania, we met with a guy named Freddie where we were staying. He says, “my boss has this campground in the park that you should check out.” We agreed. He drove us there, and we passed through a Maasai warrior camp, with young guys carrying spears. It was real life. We'd never see it on typical travel TV documentary or on a trip taken in a group with a tour guide. The world is generally a safer place to travel in than many Americans realize. Media reports always play up the scary part. We went on this journey with a mindset that the world is a good place. We didn't seek outside security help of any kind. We relied on the locals we met to guide us about where to be safe, and when to scram. By making friends with them, they helped direct us. For example, when we were in Kenya, riots and protests broke out, but locals told us how to avoid the trouble spots. And crime wasn’t a problem for us. Even though we were traveling the world with this expensive camera gear and laptops in our backpacks, we never had anything stolen. It’s true that during the times when we had our camera out and we were shooting a scene, people were less likely to bother us. But most of the time we just looked like tourists. If we were safe, you will be safe, too. Long-term travel is a personal choice, and obviously because I was filming a show this trip was not an interruption of my career. Having said that, I believe personally that it's important to take sabbaticals and get out and see what the world is like....before you have kids, but then once you have children, too. My parents every five or six years took my brother and sisters and me on long-term trips. When I was 12, for instance, my parents took us backpacking for three months, from Turkey to Scotland. Long-term travel is also more affordable than you might think. It’s actually much cheaper than just traveling for a week. An apartment for a long-term stay has a much cheaper per day cost than a hotel, and you have a kitchen to save money on meals by not eating out. For three nights in a hotel in a lot of areas of the world, you could stay for a month for the same price and get much truer experience of where you're at. You also relax more and tune into yourself more. It takes time for your mind to forget about job-related worries. You need several days off before your mind settles down from your career and family concerns. Long-term travel allows you to truly unwind. I’m incredibly proud of this show with only two people on the road shooting on the fly. I really believe that there's never been a show like this that reveals the world in such a dynamic way. Burton Roberts (producer) and WGN America were really visionary. I think we’ve taken interactivity to the next level. Once upon a time, people thought it was a big deal that they could send in a text message and help determine which performer would win a prize on a show like American Idol. For our show, people were actually contacting us via our website and helping determine where we traveled and the people we met and vitally shaping our show. It was much more immersive. Every night, Zsolt would package into five minutes the key video highlights of the day and post it on our website as a mini-episode. While he was doing post-production, I'd be online synching up our plans, reading messages from viewer/readers, choosing our next destination. Zsolt and I would figure out the logistics of where to go next, etc. When I the six months were over, I was glad to take some time off. I missed being alone, just being able to read a book in my apartment all by myself. The other big thing was eating and having space, privacy. I only had three T-shirts and a couple pairs of pants while I was on the road. I didn’t mind that. But I felt like I was like being perpetually a guest. I always have to be "on" emotionally. The people who write in are excited about helping to shape our trip. They kept our spirits up and energized. But it’s been nice to have some downtime. We’re developing our second season. What we don’t want to have happen is for the rawness to disappear. Take Survivor. I was hooked from first season because it was so real. But you look at it now and, well, I don't watch it anymore. It's lost its mystique because the rawness is gone. The people on the show are simulating their experience based on what they've seen other people who’ve been on reality shows in the past do. They’re not having fresh experiences. They’re re-enacting or mimicking other people’s experiences, more or less. And so we have to come up with a new twist on what we did when we launch a second season, to keep the element of surprise for the viewers and participants in the audience as well as for whomever undergoes the journey itself. CORRECTION: This post has been updated to correct the spelling Zsolt's name. I regret the error. (Sat. Dec. 6, 14:09) MORE Program scheduling has not yet been set. We'll let you know when the show hits the air in January. If you're fresh out of college, globetrotting for a year sounds great. But it's a lot scarier—and more fulfilling—when you already have a career. Here's a first-person account from Brook Silva-Braga: "Traveling the World to Reach a New State of Mind"
Paris: Restaurants and bars to visit pre- or post-Louvre
The self-proclaimed largest museum in the world, the Louvre packs more than 380,000 objects into a sprawling space of 650,000-square-feet, and it simply cannot be seen in a day. That doesn't stop people from trying, of course. You can easily spot the overexerted: They're the ones yelling at their spouses, sprawling glass-eyed on the benches, and crying to themselves behind the statues. It doesn't have to be this way. My advice for not losing your head at the Louvre: Bite off a reasonable chunk—only one major department per day—and pad your belly with plenty of great food and drink. Here are some favorite places to stop before and after your visit: Coffee or Hot Chocolate Le Fumoir On the east side of the Louvre, this café has an old wooden bar that was salvaged from a Chicago speakeasy. Leather sofas and polished bookshelves add to the gentlemen's club vibe, but girls—and dogs—are also welcome. Their "late breakfast" menu of fresh juice, toast, and a hot beverage is available until noon for €7.60 ($9.50). 6 rue de l'Amiral de Coligny, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1- 42-92-00-24. Angelina's In the covered arcades on the north side of the Louvre, this gilded belle époque teahouse serves the best hot chocolate in town. Angelina's chocolat chaud l'Africain is thick and rich, served in a porcelain pitcher with unsweetened whipped cream on the side. With a cup of that and a dessert (the Mont Blanc has a devoted following) you may have enough sugar to make it through the Denon wing. 226 rue Rivoli, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-96-47-10. Wine and Nibbles Café Very The same gardens that once hosted the guillotine are now home to strolling couples, laughing children, and great spots to relax. Public drinking is allowed in France, so many people bring their own wine to enjoy in the outdoor chairs. But those who don't want to lug a bottle through the Botticellis can grab a spot at Café Very. The outdoor café serves drinks and light meals created by chef Gilles Choukroun. Jardin des Tuileries, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-47-03-94-84. La Garde Robe Delightfully informal, this is one of the few wine bars in Paris where you can stand at the counter, chat up the bartender, and simply enjoy a glass. Table service is also available if you need to rest your feet. Every drop here is organic, untreated vin naturel, and there are delicious snacks that include a sharable board of cheese and charcuterie. 41 rue Arbre Sec, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-49-26-90-60. An Affordable Meal Juvéniles A wine bar like la Garde Robe, but the sort where you can (and must) settle in for some real cooking. Juvéniles is owned by an outlandish Scotsman who dares to mix New World wines in with his French selections. The food is hearty and delicious, costing between €20-30 ($25-38). Reservations are a good idea. 47 rue de Richelieu, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/1-42-97-46-49. L'Ardoise On a quiet street behind the rue Rivoli, this traditional French bistro is one of my fallback recommendations for visitors. Their €33 ($42) menu allows you to choose three courses from a long list of options. There's grilled steak for those who are taking baby steps with French cuisine, and roast pigeon for the more adventurous. They also serve dinner from 6:30pm: that's seriously early by French standards, but it's often the time by which famished foreigners are ready to eat. 28 rue Mont Thabor, 1st arrondissement, 011-33/01-42-96-28-18.