Rome: Ancient Rome to Stazione Termini

The historic center has the city's densest concentration of tourist sights, but it's also surprisingly lived-in, with monumental and intimate squares, grand and humble palaces, and restaurants galore. SEE Piazza della Minerva In the often-ignored blind spot behind the Pantheon, an uppity elephant, believed to have been sculpted by Bernini, carries an Egyptian obelisk on its back. On the facade of Santa Maria sopra Minerva church, marble plaques record the water levels of Tiber floods from the 15th to 19th centuries. SEE Via dei Cestari and Via di Santa Chiara The liturgical outfitters on these narrow streets just south of the Pantheon are what keep Vatican VIPs looking red-carpet ready. Ogle the elaborate window displays as long as you like; store owners say that even non-priests are welcome to browse or shop inside. John Paul II had his custom threads crafted at Gammarelli, while it's rumored that Benedict XVI entrusts the making of his vestments to Euroclero, on the other side of town, where he became a loyal customer as a cardinal. His flashy red shoes, however, are limited-edition Prada. EAT Obikà Piazza di Firenze 28 (at Via dei Prefetti), 011-39/06-683-2630, obika.it The name means "here it is!" in the Neapolitan dialect--"it" being buffalo mozzarella. In this slick café, mozzarella (don't call it cheese) in many forms--braids, blobs, balls--is paired with salami, prosciutto, and bottarga (dried fish roe). EAT Pizzeria La Montecarlo Vicolo Savelli 13, 011-39/06-686-1877, sevoinapizzadillo.net The liveliest, cheapest, and friendliest of the triumvirate of favorite local pizzerias west of Piazza Navona. The crowds out front look daunting, but stride confidently to the front of the line, and you'll be greeted and seated right away. (Cutting with confidence is an art form in Italy.) Angle for a table in one of the back rooms or outside. Closed Mon. Cash only. EAT Renato e Luisa Via dei Barbieri 25, 011-39/06-686-9660, renatoeluisa.it You could live around the corner for years and never think to eat here, but this is a real standout amid the casual trattorias just north of Largo Argentina. Consistently delicious Roman dishes, such as bucatini all'amatriciana (zesty tomato and pancetta pasta) and fiori di zucca (stuffed zucchini blossoms) are served in a rustic and homey atmosphere. Closed Mon. DRINK Bar del Fico Piazza del Fico 26--28, 011-39/06-686-5205 Down-to-earth and busy all day long, from the morning espresso shooters to the 2 a.m. vodka-and--Red Bull crowd. The indoor/outdoor "bar of the fig" (also translatable as "bar of cool") is a Roman social institution and highly recommended, especially if you happen to be at one of the tables under the gnarled fig tree when Lenny Kravitz stops by and buys a round. Cash only. DRINK Le Coppelle 52 Piazza delle Coppelle 52, 011-39/349-740-4620 In one of Rome's most refined and secluded little piazzas, this chic and comfy bar is perfect for an aperitivo (light cocktail or glass of wine, especially prosecco) before--or a digestivo (nightcap) after--a meal at one of the stylish restaurants on the square. Weather permitting, lounge furniture is set up on the car-free cobblestones outside. Closed Mon. from Nov. to March. DRINK Salotto 42 Piazza di Pietra 42, 011-39/06-678-5804, salotto42.it Co-owned by Swedish model and longtime resident of Rome Malin Persson this new "book bar" offering Swedish fare has been an aperitivo-hour hit with Nordic expats and cultured Romans since its 2004 opening. A few tables spill out onto the quiet, pedestrian piazza to face the ruins of the Temple of Hadrian. Closed Mon. SPLURGE Posto Italiano Via dei Giubbonari 37a, 011-39/06-686-9373 Shopping bags from flashier shoe boutiques in the Campo de' Fiori area carry more cachet, but if you want a well-priced and well-made pair of this-minute Italian shoes or boots (meaning they'll be in style in the U.S. in a year), make this your first stop. Expect to spend about $125 a pair. PLAY Supperclub Via de' Nari 14, 011-39/06-6880-7207, supperclub.com At this Euro-fabulous dining experience, which includes four courses of fusion fare, you recline on a white divan and are served by half-naked waiters. The cocktail lounge and dance club are less expensive ways to partake in the excess. Reserve well in advance for dinner. Location changes in summer. $69 prix fixe.   TIP If you're ever in Rome when it's pouring rain--or better yet, during one of the city's rare hailstorms--head straight to the Pantheon. The 30-foot-wide oculus (the round window at the top of the dome) is open to the sky, which means that the ancient temple becomes a gigantic indoor shower in rainy weather. This feature of the building gets especially dramatic on Pentecost Sunday in May or June, when firemen dump barrel after barrel of red rose petals through the oculus to flutter down over the Mass, celebrated 142 feet below.

Those who procrastinate on booking Rome hotels are punished with horrendous locations and/or price tags. E-mail prospective hotels and make reservations before you go--you can almost always cancel later. CENTRO STORICO Albergo del Sole al Biscione Via del Biscione 76, 011-39/06-6880-6873, solealbiscione.it Roman character, basic rooms, and an unbeatable location in the throbbing heart of the old city. In business since the 15th century, it's the oldest hotel in Rome (as confirmed by an official city heritage plaque on the outside of the pink-stucco building). Roll out of bed into the bustling market of Campo de' Fiori, look out over rooftops and church domes from the multilevel interior garden, and take your pick of the hundreds of cheap and lively restaurants and bars within a five-minute walk. From $139 ($120 with shared bath). Cash only. CENTRO STORICO Hotel Mimosa Via di Santa Chiara 61, 011-39/06-6880-1753, hotelmimosa.net Prices are ridiculously low for the location--on a quiet street a few yards from the Pantheon. Some rooms feel institutional, but others are classed up with Oriental rugs and baroque lamps. A/C. From $101 in low season ($88 with shared bath), $136 in high season ($117 with shared bath), includes breakfast. Cash only. CENTRO STORICO Hotel Navona Via dei Sediari 8, 011-39/06-686-4203, hotelnavona.com Run by an Australian couple, this 14th-century palace sits on an a quiet street between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Rooms are big enough to do a cartwheel in, and the decor is soothing. Some rooms have 15th-century frescoes. From $158, includes breakfast. PARIOLI Hotel Coppedè Via Chiana 88, 011-39/06-854-9535, hotelcoppede.net This art nouveau palazzo may be a bus ride away from the centro storico's sights and street life, but it's also an affordable way to experience one of the most elegant neighborhoods in Rome--one that tourists rarely see. Clubby rooms have minibars, A/C, TV, green carpeting, rich wood paneling, and striped upholstery in saturated colors. Visit nearby Piazza Mincio to see the whimsical, fairy-tale-inspired 1920s architecture of the hotel's namesake, Gino Coppedè. From $126 in low season, $164 high season. TRASTEVERE Hotel Cisterna Viale della Cisterna 7--9, 011-39/06-581-7212, cisternahotel.it Rooms have all the basics but it's the location--in one of the more-Roman-than-expat parts of Trastevere--that's appealing. Beware: Your neighbors on this charming but sometimes rowdy street might include salty locals who sing Roman drinking songs late into the night. From $139, includes breakfast.   TIP Easter week and the weekends around May 1 (Italian Labor Day) and Dec. 8 (Feast of the Immaculate Conception) are booked solid several months to a year in advance. Also, some hoteliers are loathe year-round to accept reservations for only one night. TRASTEVERE Villa della Fonte Via della Fonte d'Olio 8, 011-39/06-580-3797, villafonte.com On an ocher-washed, ivy-covered alley just north of Santa Maria in Trastevere. The five-year-old, unfussy boutique property has such typically earthy Roman touches as exposed dark-wood ceilings, terra-cotta tile floors, and arched doorways. Modern pluses include minibars, broadband cable for in-room Internet access, and A/C. The garden patio, one floor above street level, is ideal for sipping wine. From $139. TRIDENTE Hotel Panda Via della Croce 35, 011-39/06-678-0179, hotelpanda.it Great value in a neighborhood where everything else is prohibitively expensive. Near the Spanish Steps and the couture strip of Via dei Condotti. Rustic rooms are bright and polished, with wooden-beam ceilings and terra-cotta floors; a few even have original 19th-century frescoes. From $117 ($82 with shared bath). THE VATICAN & PRATI Hotel Adriatic Via G. Vitelleschi 25, 011-39/06-6880-8080, adriatichotel.com On a street with modern buildings and a stone's throw from Castel Sant'Angelo and St. Peter's. Spacious, comfortable, carpeted rooms are done up in an old-fashioned hodgepodge of green, blue, and mustard yellow. Some have private terraces. From $101 in low season ($95 with shared bath), $151 high season ($113 with shared bath); $13 supplement for A/C. THE VATICAN & PRATI Hotel Colors Via Boezio 31, 011-39/06-687-4030, colorshotel.com Owners Pierluigi and Fulvia keep upgrading and expanding their friendly hotel/hostel, but the price stays low. Doubles and dorm-style rooms on multiple floors are painted in tasteful bright colors or cool neutrals; most have private baths. Guests who want to cook can use the full kitchen and dine on the quiet terrace. Perfect for budget travelers who've outgrown noisy backpackers and bedbugs. English-speaking staff. Rooms with bath include breakfast; coffee, tea, cornflakes, and jam provided for other guests. A/C June--Sept. only. From $107 ($76 with shared bath). Cash only. SPLURGE Casa Howard Via di Capo Le Case 18 and Via Sistina 149, 011-39/06-6992-4555, casahoward.com Gorgeously appointed rooms in two separate boutique guesthouses near the Spanish Steps. Each is done in a radically different style, from the masculine "American Cousin" room to the sultry, concubine-ish "Chinese" room. In the Via Sistina property, the "Zebra" room has a private balcony overlooking the street. Both locations have a Turkish bath ($32--$63 supplement) and free Wi-Fi throughout. From $202.

Christi Day: Hi! Thanks for joining me. I am ready to answer your questions about Student Travel! Let's get started! _______________________ College Place, WA: My granddaughter is traveling to Montreal, Canada in July and is on a very tight budget. She is thinking of staying in a hostel but has never done this before, is it safe and would her things be secure? Christi Day: Hostels are a great choice for a traveler looking to stretch their dollar. Accommodation is usually dormitory style, sometimes separated by gender, or other times mixed. Many hostels offer additional amenities such as a communal kitchen, lockers or baggage storage, internet, TV lounge, or a tour desk. At STA Travel, most of our properties are personally visited by our contracting team and graded on a "globe" rating system. When grading our properties, we consider all room types, not just the best rooms. Call and talk to one of our experienced Travel Advisors (800) 505-1940 for more information. Also, for added security she can register the trip with the nearest US embassy or consulate. This process makes your presence and whereabouts known in case you need to be contacted in an emergency. She should leave copies of her itinerary, passport data, and visas with family at home. _______________________ Peoria, IL: In July I am taking my 15 year old daughter to London, Paris, Rome, Florence and to some small towns in Tuscany. We are traveling by plane from London to Paris - but will use trains and busses after that. As a 15 year old, would it be budget-wise to have her purchase a Student Identity Card for youth/student rates for museums, train & bus travel etc. Or instead of spending over $20 dollars for a Student Identity Card- will she get a cheaper rate if we just show her passport - to prove she is only 15? Thank you! Christi Day: The Student Identity Card is a GREAT idea. In London, the Busabout transportation system offers special rates for Youth card holders. In Rome, you can get a cut ticket price at the Museo di Roma in Trastevere, one of the most famous and beautiful museums in Rome. The card has awesome discounts abroad, but also amazing discounts here in the States as well. You can visit myisic.com to check out the specific specials in each location. Also, the card can serve as a backup form of identity for your 15-year-old daughter. Also, when you purchase your card you automatically have minimum coverage travel insurance and you have the option to purchase more comprehensive insurance packages, since you never can expect the unexpected! I could go on and on about the benefits of this card, really check out the Web site for extensive information. You can purchase the card at an STA Travel Branch or online. Good Luck! _______________________ Oakton, VA: Hi! I am a 21 year old college student and my three friends and I are interested in traveling to the Caribbean for our last Spring Break trip (March 3 - March 10, 2007 leaving from from Philadelphia, PA). We are not sure what island we would like to go to but we know we do not want to stay on one of the very touristy islands (i.e. the Bahamas or Jamaica). We are looking for a unique destination and not the typical "college spring break" that you might find in locations like Cancun. We want a relaxed, all-inclusive type resort with white sand beaches where we can sun bathe, snorkle, shop and enjoy a few drinks by the pool. Being college students, we are on a tighter budget: $1700-$2200 for airfare, hotel and the all inclusive plan. I am not sure if our ideal spring break is a possibility on this budget but if anyone can help us out I know it would be you guys!! Thank you for any feedback you have! Christi Day: Yay!!! Spring Break!! Quite possibly it is the best part of college. Go ahead plan it so you have something to look forward to, I completely understand!! One destination you should check out is Barbados. It has the look and feel of the "Cancun" type spring break, but is a little less visited, or less "touristy". Visit our Web site statravel.com or stop by your local STA Travel Branch (we have two in Philly) to look for package deals through partnering companies. Our Spring Break Specials will be launched in early September, so it might be best to wait to book your trip then. Also, Our Travel Advisors work with any budget, and are experts at getting the best deals! Booking with STA Travel is convenient and cheaper because we are a one-stop shop for almost your entire trip and you can avoid paying the expensive fuel surcharge. _______________________ Raleigh, NC: I am applying to 6 colleges, in New York, Maine, Massachusetts, Texas, Michigan, and California respectively. What is the cheapest way to go to the six? Christi Day: STA Travel has some awesome discounted domestic flights as well as an exclusive 15% off United Airlines fares(some restrictions may apply, see a STA Travel Advisor for details). You might want to consider scheduling your campus visits to create point-to-point trip around the states. _______________________ Detroit, MI: A friend and I are planning a trip through most of central and some of eastern europe. We are debating whether to get a train pass or rent a car. I expect that some countries may be difficult to take a rental car in. But the train schedule doesn't seem that easy either. Christi Day: My vote would be a train pass. The Eurailpass Flexi lets you travel through 17 European countries with tons of flexibility. These start at about $21 a day. If you want to be more selective, you can choose your specific countries starting at $37 a day. Some European countries are not included in the rail pass, so be sure to check. Also, there may be restrictions on taking a rental car into specific countries. It may seem confusing, but sometimes that can make a trip really interesting!! If you feel like you need more guidance sit down and chat with an STA Travel Advisor at your local branch (University of Michigan or the Ann Arbor branch would be closest to you, visit statravel.com for directions). _______________________ Minneapolis, MN: I am traveling to New York for a week over Christmas break this year and am not sure where to stay and what are the key things to do when we are there. I don't want to miss anything big with my 2 teenaged girls! Thanks- Brenda Christi Day: The Big Apple is fun for everyone!! To choose the most appropriate hotel, first determine your budget and what you would like to do while in NYC. If you are trying to stretch your dime, maybe look into a hostel. Visit the STA Travel Web site for more guidance on the perfect place for you to stay. A few things your girls might enjoy...Radio City Rockettes Christmas Spectacular, a longtime New York traditio--the backstage tour is also really worth it if they enjoy the show. If you enjoy shopping, check out Canal Street, but be sure to take cash. Also, I really enjoyed the ferry ride around the Statue of Liberty. The holiday season in New York is very busy, so be sure to plan well in advance. I love New York, have fun!!! _______________________ Sterling, VA: I have an international teacher card. In terms of discounts, do teachers get the same discounts as students? If not, then what are some of the best ways I can get use out of my card, while I'm traveling in New Zealand and Singapore? Christi Day: The discounts are not the exact same, but still amazing--for example, in some locations the teacher card can get you half-off yoga classes, or wine vineyard tours. Specifically in New Zealand and Singapore some neat teacher discounts include--10% off bicycle rentals at Adventure Cycles (Auckland), 10% off tandem jumps at Christchurch Parachute School, 10% off manicures and pedicures the Nail Boutique in Singapore, there are SO many discounts...check out myisic.com choose teacher from the drop down menu, then choose your destination. _______________________ Cary, NC: My son is 14 and next year I would like to send him on a summer trip / camp outside the USA so he can experience other cultures. We have traveled a lot in the USA, but not in another country. Can you recommend / suggest a camp-trip? Christi Day: Sending a minor (under 18) abroad is a little more difficult. There is an interesting and popular program through i-to-i travel that is a family-volunteer program. There are many different options for volunteer work such as conservation, teaching, community development, sports and more in locations all over the world. Through this program you and your son could experience other cultures while giving back at the same time. Once he is 16, he can embark on a volunteer trip through i-to-i, all on his own. Another perk to begin thinking about is the value of volunteer travel on college resumes. _______________________ Venetia, PA: I have a 5 and a 13 year old boy. Where could we go that best suits the age difference in the USA? Not a theme park...other suggestions? Christi Day: If your family is into the outdoors, then maybe a trip to one of our many national parks. Yellowstone National Park might be a good choice, you can check out "Old Faithful" and your boys might enjoy the wildlife. Also, The Grand Canyon has the I-Max film "The Grand Canyon Experience" in case you do not want to actually climb the canyon yourself...with a 5-year-old... Also, San Diego is a great city for the young and young-at-heart. You can enjoy the beautiful weather, the beaches and surf, and the world famous San Diego Zoo (visit the Zoo in the mornings, so the animals are perky and active). _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: I am going on a teen tour of Eastern Europe & Israel in a week we'll be in Prague, Budapest, Warsaw & tour lots of Israel. I'd like to buy some former Soviet Union souvenirs in Eastern Europe-- any ideas of where I can get them? Thanks Christi Day: When you arrive in the cities, ask the locals if there is are any open-air markets or weekend festivals. My colleague, Margi, went to Prague and found AMAZING souvenirs such as oil paintings and war memorabilia. Just be ready to strike a deal with the street vendors. Be sure to take small bills in cash. _______________________ Minneapolis, MN: My husband, Stephen, and I are planning a pre-baby "last hurra". He is supporting us while I am in Graduate School, so we will be traveling in March of 2007 (spring break around 3/14/07) and need to be frugal. He has never traveled outside of North America or Mexico, but has alway wanted to go to Greece. We have been researching our options, but there is so much to choose from. What is the best way to see Athans, Delphi, Santorini and Crete? We like to explore on our own, so a guided tour is not our style. What is the best way to reach all of these destinations? Joy Christi Day: Seven days might not be enough time to tour Athens, Delphi, Santorini and Crete. Research the destinations and determine what you would like to see, then narrow your choices down to two or three cities. Contiki has a resort on Mykonos Island and it is BEAUTIFUL! It is a beach-front property with a swimming pool, two Jacuzzis; it also has a restaurant and a night club onsite. You can party or chill-out at this resort. There is also a wonderful staff to help coordinate the hard-core logistics of your daily pleasure schedule. Or, you could do a seven-day cruise on Louis Hellenic Cruise Company. They have several different itineraries to choose from. If you want to stick close to home, check out Barbados for great beaches or Cozumel if you are into scuba diving and snorkeling. _______________________ Burbank, CA: I'm backpacking through Europe for 3 weeks next month and a friend mentioned I should get travel insurance. What is this, and do I really need it? Christi Day: TRAVEL INSURANCE IS A MUST!!! For just a couple dollars a day, you can protect yourself from typical travel disasters. For example, the airline loses your bags, your traveling companion breaks his leg and now can't go on the trip, or the local cuisine doesn't agree with your stomach and you have to visit a doctor. Remember, ANYTHING can happen while you are away from home. Travel insurance for eight days is only a $48 policy and will include protection such as trip cancellation, trip interruption, trip delay, medical protection, baggage protection, accidental death and worldwide emergency assistance. STA Travel sells policies up to 13 month coverage. Be smart and protect yourself! Get travel insurance. _______________________ Alexandria, VA: What is STA Travel? Is it only for students in college? Christi Day: STA Travel is a full-service travel company that specializes in student, youth and teacher travel. We have incredible airfare discounts for international and domestic trip itineraries. We are available 24/7 online, on the phone, and we have 81 branch locations across North America. Some of our products include--hotels/hostels, tours, city breaks, international student identity card (ISIC), insurance, travel gear...and soooo much more! Be sure to check out our Web site to find your nearest STA Travel branch location. Our Travel Advisors are the EXPERTS in booking trips for any budget, answering questions about destinations, and ensuring that you get the ultimate student experience. _______________________ Christi Day: Thanks for chatting with me today! Sorry that is all the time we have! If you have more questions please give your local STA Travel Branch a visit, or check out our Web site statravel.com Happy Trails! _______________________

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Aeroporto Leonardo da Vinci di Fiumicino (FCO) 011-39/06-65-951, adr.it Express rail: The Leonardo Express is a nonstop train that runs between the airport and Termini station, the city's main train station. Departs from the airport to Termini every 30 minutes 6:35 a.m.--11:35 p.m.; to the airport every 30 minutes 6 a.m.-- 11 p.m. Trip time is 30 min., $12 each way. Local rail: FR1 metropolitan trains leave the airport every 15--30 minutes, with service to Roma-Trastevere (24 min.), Roma-Ostiense (29 min.), Roma-Tuscolana (34 min.), and Roma-Tiburtina (44 min.). This train does not stop at Termini station. Trains run from the airport 6 a.m.--11:30 p.m.; to the airport from Tiburtina 5 a.m.--10:30 p.m. $6.25 each way. Look for ferrovia (rail station) signs for Local and Express trains in the airport terminal, then follow a series of escalators and covered passageways to the three-track platform of the airport train station. Buy tickets from window agents or automatic vending machines (cash or credit), or at the newsstand (cash only) on the platform. Validate your ticket at the orange time-stamping machines before boarding the train. Luggage carts are not allowed on trains. Aeroporto G.B. Pastine di Ciampino (CIA) 011-39/06-794-941, adr.it Public transportation: From the airport, take a blue COTRAL bus (011-39/06-57-031, cotralspa.it) to Roma-Anagnina, then metro line A to the city center. Most are modern coaches, but some are like school buses, with vinyl seats and no A/C. Purchase bus tickets from the ticket machine or pay extra on board. Buy metro tickets from the tabaccherie (tobacco stores) or newsstands. Total trip time to the city is about an hour, $2.50 each way. Private coach: Modern, air-conditioned, and upholstered Schiaffini buses (011-39/06-474-4534, schiaffini.com) run between Ciampino and Termini station seven times a day. Buy tickets from the Schiaffini desk or onboard. Trip time is 44 min., $6.25 each way. Cash only. Traveling Around Italy: Discount train cards & passes   TrenItalia Pass Unlimited travel on consecutive or non- consecutive days over a two-month period for foreigners. Purchase tickets online, at select U.S. travel agencies, or at train-ticket windows in major Italian cities. From $176 for three-day minimum. More info: trenitalia.com.   TrenItalia Pass Youth 17 percent discount on the prices of adult TrenItalia passes for travelers between 12 and 25 years of age. Can only be used for second-class travel.   Note: Travelers under 12 ride for half the adult ticket price; kids under four ride free. Passes do not include an additional fee for tickets that require reserved seating. GETTING AROUND City Buses, Trams, and Metro ATAC Agenzia per la Mobilità: 800-431-784 (within Italy), atac.roma.itRegular buses and trams run 5:30 a.m--midnight; metro lines 5:30 a.m.--11:30 p.m. (until 12:30 a.m. on Saturdays). Night buses, marked by an "N" after the bus number, operate between midnight and 5:30 a.m. The 29N does a loop that includes stops at the Colosseum, the Vatican, and Villa Borghese. The 78N runs between Termini and Piazzale Clodio by way of the centro storico (historic city center) and the Prati area near the Vatican. Download a map of the bus and tram system from atac.roma.it, or purchase a city map with bus routes at newsstands throughout the city. Buy tickets at tabaccherie (tobacco stores) and some newsstands. The green ticket-vending machines outside major bus stops are usually out of order. Standard tickets (BIT) for buses, trams, and metro are valid for 75 minutes from time of stamping. The BIT ticket allows unlimited transfers on buses and trams, but only one transfer on the metro (e.g., between lines A and B). Single-ride tickets are $1.25. Daily tickets (BIG) cost $5 and are valid for 24 hours of unlimited travel from time of stamping. Three-day tourist tickets (BTI) cost $14 and are valid until midnight on the third day of use. Weekly tickets (CIS) cost $20 and are valid for unlimited travel until midnight on the seventh day of use. COTRAL Regional Buses011-39/06-57-031, cotralspa.it Most day-trip destinations are served by this regional bus line. Buses to the Etruscan necropolis at Cerveteri and the beaches north of Rome depart from Cornelia metro station; buses to Villa d'Este and Hadrian's Villa in Tivoli and Palestrina (a quiet medieval town with an ancient hillside sanctuary) depart from Ponte Mammolo metro station; buses to local beach resorts Sabaudia and San Felice Circeo depart from Laurentina metro station. Depending on season and destination, 5--10 buses a day. Tickets $2--$4.50. Cash only. Ostia-Lido Trains Good for visiting Ostia Antica and the beaches at Lido di Ostia. Trains depart every 20--30 minutes from Stazione Porta San Paolo (Piramide metro station); use same ticket as for ATAC city buses, trams, and metro. $1.25 each way. Taxis It can be difficult to hail a taxi on the street in the center of Rome. Instead, go to a taxi stand; there's one at most major sights, including Piazza di Spagna, Piazza San Pietro, near the Pantheon in Piazza delle Cinque Lune, and near the Colosseum at Piazza Venezia by Via dei Fori Imperiali. To have a cab pick you up at a specific address, call one of Rome's radio-taxi cooperatives (Radiotaxi 3570, 011-39/06-3570; Radiotaxi 4994, 011-39/06-4994; or Radiotaxi Tevere 011-39/06-4157). Give them your exact street address (they understand some English, but speak slowly), and an automated system will tell you the medallion number (e.g., Parma 31) and when it will arrive. Taxis usually take up to four passengers, although the smaller cars only seat three comfortably. Fares are expensive ($8.75--$19 for a ride within the city center), and there's a higher rate 10 p.m.--7 a.m. and on Sun.; about $1.25 extra for each large bag.   TIP: "Prearranged" fares are a classic Roman cabdriver scam and are usually exorbitant. Always insist that the cabdriver use the meter, or tassametro. Trains in Italy National call center, 89-20-21 (within Italy), trenitalia.com All major trains to and from other Italian and European cities go through Termini station, on the east side of the city center. Purchase tickets online, through travel agents, or at the gray-and-yellow self-service machines inside the train station, which take cash and major credit cards. Eurostar trains offer the quickest--and priciest--train trips between Italy's major cities. For the Leonardo Express train to the Fiumicino airport, note that the train departs from Tracks 28 and 29, which are a 5- to 10-minute walk beyond tracks 1--22. If you enter on Via Giolitti, you'll have a somewhat shorter walk. All train tickets except the Eurostar must be validated at the yellow time-stamping machines in front of each track. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN Roma C'è For concerts of all kinds, cinemas, clubs, exhibitions, lectures, and walking tours. Weekly at newsstands, English-language section in back pages, romace.it, $1.50 TrovaRoma For less comprehensive concert listings, cinemas, museums, monuments. To get it, you must buy the Thursday supplement to the Italian newspaper La Repubblica. $1.25 Cinemas that often show films in English (Ask for English-language films in "versione originale")   Metropolitan Via del Corso 7, 011-39/06-320-0933   Warner Village Cinemas Moderno Piazza della Repubblica 44-45, 011-39/06-4777-9202   Alcazar Via Cardinale Merry del Val 99, 011-39/06-588-0099 TOURS Bus 110 Open Piazza dei Cinquecento, 8002-81281 (within Italy), trambusopen.com Double-decker bus with an open-air deck that departs every 20 minutes from Piazza dei Cinquecento (Termini station) and operates a hop-on, hop-off service for most major sights, including the Colosseum, St. Peter's Square, and the Trevi Fountain. Minimal onboard commentary in multiple languages, including English. Tickets are valid all day. $16. Enjoy Rome Via Marghera 8A, 011-39/06-445-1843, enjoyrome.com Three-hour general orientation tours that are educational and entertaining. For example, a tour might mix smart tips for making sense of ancient ruins and sites such as the Sistine Chapel with colorful anecdotes about gladiators and mischievous popes. Guides are young English-speakers. Walking tours $23--$30. The Catacombs and Roman Countryside bus tour ($44--$50, including Catacombs admission) takes you to a remote park with spectacular ruins of an ancient aqueduct. Note: Lower prices are for people age 25 or under. Context: Rome 011-39/06-482-0911, from the U.S. 888/467-1986, contextrome.com Not cheap, but you get your money's worth. Learn a ton about Roman history, art, and culture on private and small group walks led by experienced English-speaking docents who live and work in Rome as archaeologists, architects, art historians, or food critics. One hour to full-day excursions, from $32 (for an orientation walk around the Spanish steps or Pantheon) to $296 (for a full-day tour to Pompeii and the archaeological museum in Naples). Admission prices are extra. NUMBERS TO KNOW Police 113 Carabinieri (army police) 112 Ambulance 118 Fire department 115  U.S. Embassy and Consulate 011-39/06-46-741 Monument and museum tickets Colosseum/Palatine, 011-39/06-3996-7700, pierreci.it; Galleria Borghese, 011-39/06-32810, ticketeria.it Concert and event tickets Orbis Agency (Piazza dell' Esquilino 37, 011-39/06-474-4776); TicketOne (ticketone.it) International access code From US: 011+country code+city code+local number Country code 39 City code 06   Note: Always dial the full city code (06), whether calling from abroad or making local calls within Rome.