Secret Hotels of California Wine Country

The big trend in cruising is bigness: Cruise lines are launching massive ships that can carry as many as 3,600 passengers. Everything you need for an exciting vacation is right onboard--spas, casinos, discos, specialty restaurants, even rock-climbing walls and surfing pools. It's a lot like going to Vegas. But the second-biggest trend is the polar opposite--which may not be a coincidence. River cruising is all about slowness and intimacy: Ships holding 150 to 300 passengers drift their way along the world's most scenic rivers, including the Rhone, the Rhine, the Yangtze, and the Nile. I've cruised all over--the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, the Great Barrier Reef--on large ships, on upscale ships, even on sailboats. But I'd never been on a river cruise, and I'd never been anywhere near the Danube. Booking the CruiseMany cruise lines--including Viking River Cruises, Uniworld Grand River Cruises, Avalon Waterways, Grand Circle Travel, and Peter Deilmann Cruises--have sailings on the Danube. I chose Viking's Romantic Danube itinerary (although I wasn't sure it'd be all that romantic, considering my mother would be joining me), mostly because it was short, eight days compared to 10 to 14 days on other lines. The cruise began in Nürnberg, Germany, and ended in Budapest, Hungary. The cruise was also relatively inexpensive, at least compared to the options on other lines. We paid $8,608 for two people for a Category B cabin, which included round-trip flights (via Frankfurt) from New York City, seven tours, all meals, port charges, and airline taxes. It was higher than it might've been because I booked late: Only Category B cabins were available, and I missed the early-booking discount. I investigated booking our own flights; since we were taking a one-way cruise and flying into one city and out of another, however, we were definitely better off letting Viking handle it. When my mother had to cancel, my boyfriend, Richard, came to the rescue. Changing the air reservations proved a hassle; it took six phone calls to get us on the same flight. A month before departure, Viking sent a nifty gray carton with a magnetic closure. It felt like Christmas Day as we went through the box: It held our tickets for the flights, the cruise, and airport-to-ship transfers; information on the ship and itinerary; booklets describing Eastern Europe and offering packing tips; a cloth pouch for carrying travel documents; and a suggested reading list. We learned the hard way, however, that we should've confirmed our seat assignments with the airline as soon as we received our tickets. When we realized we didn't have assigned seats, we went to the airport early and tried for the exit row, to no avail. Aboard the ShipMy embarkations have been limited to big terminals and large piers, so I was pleasantly surprised to find our vessel docked along a grassy expanse. During the hour we had to wait for our cabin to be ready, I investigated the riverbank. We were right by a path, with the occasional rollerblader zipping by. A beer garden was across the way. The Viking Europe, built in 2001, has three decks and 75 cabins; it can hold 150 passengers and sails with a crew of 40. There are two main common areas: the dining room back at the stern where three meals are served daily, and the Observation Lounge in the bow, home to a small cocktail bar and the site for briefings, entertainment, and light snacks. Just off the Observation Lounge is a small library with books and games. The outdoor Sun Deck, atop the ship, has lounge chairs and several small tables and chairs. Otherwise, there are no frills--no room service, no hot tubs, no in-room refrigerators, no exercise facilities. Our cabin had two twin beds and no toiletries in the bathroom. (Viking now says there should've been some, but all I know is that I had to purchase shampoo from the front desk.) The storage space, however, was deluxe: eight drawers and a full-size closet. While frequent cruisers often request a cabin in the front of the ship, because it tends to be quieter, we were in the very back of the Viking Europe and didn't experience any discomfort. The service was very responsive: Requests for extra pillows, a hairdryer, and more hangers were met within five minutes. Each day we visited a different city, but with the same routine. First, there were two hours for breakfast, a lavish buffet of juices, breads, sliced meats and cheeses, scrambled eggs, sausages, bacon, pastries, yogurt, cereal, and fruit; in addition, omelets and blueberry pancakes were cooked to order. Then cruise director Casey Lyn started making announcements about when to board the tour buses. After our morning tour, we could either go back to the ship for lunch (a soup/salad/sandwich buffet in the lounge or a more formal meal in the dining room) or eat on land. Richard and I always stayed in port, where the food far surpassed anything served on the ship. Plus, we didn't want to waste time traveling back and forth. There was one dinner seating: Lateness was frowned upon, and the servers literally ran to feed everyone in time. Dinners usually had a theme, such as German, Hungarian, or Mozart. Most passengers agreed that the conversations at dinner were more appealing than the food. Onboard entertainment was scheduled for a few afternoons and evenings: a demonstration by a glassblower, a Bavarian night with local dancers, a crew show. On other nights a piano player performed. Those who wanted to relax in their cabins would watch the movies piped in three times daily on the televisions. Our Fellow PassengersMost everyone aboard was American, and a majority were enjoying their retirement. At dinner early in the cruise, we met two couples from New Orleans, Suzanne and Fred Myers and Jeanne and Brant Houston, with whom we ended up hanging out for the rest of the cruise. The Myers had planned on taking the trip a year ago, but then Hurricane Katrina hit. (Viking River Cruises called to check on their safety, and rebooked them at no charge.) Another foursome came all the way from Brisbane, Australia. One of the women, Ruth Copelin, said they like to go cruising because "men love boats, and this way they'll give us some peace." They were pleased that it wasn't a fancy cruise: "We couldn't come to dinner on a Celebrity cruise dressed in slacks and jeans." The entire ship knew the Gremers. Charles and Grace Gremer were celebrating their 60th anniversary. During their last river cruise, through Russia, the Gremers noticed most everyone had brought their own social group, and they felt a little left out. This time, they invited their children, David, Dennis, and Debbie, and their children's spouses. "You just need to realize that this isn't a Princess cruise," said Dennis. "On a larger ship you expect to be entertained by the crew. Here you're entertained by the towns and scenery." Shore ExcursionsThe trip was planned around the Danube and the canals' locks--literally. Reservations for lock passage are booked years in advance. Going through the locks the first few times--seeing the opening of the gate and the swoosh of water--was exciting. Everyone was taking tons of photos. By the end of the trip, it felt like watching water boil. Unlike most cruises, where passengers buy excursions à la carte, with many options to choose from, our package included all seven city tours. Only a few of the special excursions in Vienna and Budapest cost extra. Each bus held about 40 passengers. We learned quickly to arrive at the bus early so we wouldn't get stuck in the back, which could smell of gas fumes and deliver a bumpier ride. Also, it would take forever to get off the bus. The quality of the tours depended on the guide. Some were terrific; others were less experienced at giving tours or were simply difficult to understand (language issues). In Nürnberg, at Zeppelin Field where Adolf Hitler once spoke, our guide scored points by passing around photographs of Hitler orating there. After a while, though, her nonstop commentary became overwhelming. I'm not sure we really needed to know that during her former job, ordering medical equipment at a Nürnberg hospital, a third of her salary went to taxes. Returning to the ship, I tuned her out and watched the cornfields. On the other hand, the guides shared fascinating tidbits that we'd never have learned otherwise: Outside the oldest pub in Regensburg, Germany, we heard how beer is often served to kids because it's cheaper than soda. In Vienna, we were informed that "The Blue Danube" is Austria's secret national anthem--and that blue is rumored to mean drunken. And there were experiences that we simply never would've planned on our own. Our first night in Vienna was one of the few evenings with no scheduled activity. Neither Richard nor I had been to the city, so we took the easy way out and bought Viking's excursion to the Palais Auersperg, where the Vienna Residence Orchestra performed a beautiful concert of Strauss and Mozart. To be honest, we really began to have fun when we went off on our own. The same night that we went to the opera, two other couples had dinner at a place called Figlmüller, and raved about it. Inspired, we skipped the next day's tour of Schönbrunn Palace and explored Vienna without a guide--and tracked down Figlmüller for lunch. We sat next to a couple from Hamburg, who laughed knowingly as the restaurant's signature Wiener schnitzel arrived. It was the size of a medium pizza. Then we stumbled across an outdoor market where I haggled lightheartedly with an elderly gentleman over antique Christmas ornaments. When we docked overnight at Vilshofen, Germany, Richard and I left the ship around 9 p.m. for a stroll through town, where we discovered IO Expressio, a lively wine and coffee bar owned by a hip couple. No one knew where we'd gone--we felt like kids sneaking out of the house. Cruising on the RiverUnlike on Caribbean cruises, with stretches where all you can see is vast open water, there was always something historic in view along the riverbank. It was mesmerizing to watch the progression from farmland to villages to cities, then back again. When we sailed through a particularly notable or scenic area (such as when we entered Budapest at dawn, passing under the famous Széchenyi Chain Bridge and the Liberty Bridge), cruise director Casey gave us interesting commentary over the loudspeakers around the ship. For all of the rigidness of the trip, and the occasions when it could feel a bit stifling, there was a big upside to the small-ship experience: Namely, we met some fantastic people. It's the kind of thing that you certainly can't take for granted on a ship with 3,000 passengers; even though there are so many more people around, you have to make much more of an effort to actually engage. It's the difference between a small town and a big city, or between going away to a college of 700 students versus one of 10,000 students. My fondest memory of the trip is of an afternoon we spent aboard the ship. It was a beautiful, sunny day as we left Melk, Austria, then cruised through the glorious Wachau Valley toward Vienna. Fred, Suzanne, Jeanne, and Brant joined Richard and me out on the top deck. We had purchased wine, cheese, sausages, crackers, and bread while in Melk, and we had a makeshift picnic. As the hillsides dotted with castles, country roads, and vineyards glided by, we ate, drank, and talked about nothing, the way friends do, discussing which of the cheeses was the most delicious and figuring out who bought the least expensive bottle of wine (it was Brant, for E1.20). And despite the fact that we weren't dining on china or drinking from crystal--in fact, we were using water glasses for the wine and a corkscrew as a knife--we felt a little like European royalty. Booking a CruiseIt's possible to book a Viking River Cruise through a travel agent or directly through the cruise line (877/668-4546, vikingrivercruises.com). Other lines that run sailings on the Danube and other rivers include Avalon Waterways (877/797-8791, avalonwaterways.com), Grand Circle Travel (800/959-0405, gct.com), Peter Deilmann Cruises (800/348-8287, deilmann-cruises.com), and Uniworld (800/360-9550, uniworld.com).

While residents of Brooklyn have been raving about their borough for years, visitors are finally hearing the call. Grace Bonney, the blogger behind Design*Sponge, shows us a few of her favorite spots. My first real impression of Brooklyn was of a burning car seen through a broken window at an artist's loft. I was in town to visit a college boyfriend, and, while leaning out of the window, we watched a car nearly explode in an abandoned lot across the street. I'll never know why the car was engulfed in flames, but I'll always remember the thought that crossed my mind: Never, ever move to Brooklyn. That was six years ago, and thankfully both my initial impression of the borough and the college boyfriend are ancient history. After graduating from William and Mary College in Virginia, I moved to Brooklyn to take an internship with a small record label based in Park Slope. While lugging boxes of CDs around the city and doing the bidding of some fairly nefarious recording artists, I tried to figure out what I wanted to do with my life. I had always been interested in art and design, but I didn't really have a clue about where exactly I fit within those industries. So, like any new kid on the block, I set out to explore my neighborhood. Along the way I was lucky enough to meet a special someone who accompanied me on these outings. He noticed that my running commentary almost exclusively covered interior design, so over brunch at Union Picnic one day he suggested that I start a blog on the topic. One long story and several years later, the blog, Design*Sponge (designsponge.blogspot.com), is now my livelihood and a forum for people around the globe who enjoy design in its many forms. Aside from being a fun way to spend the day, Design*Sponge has provided me with a platform to discuss Brooklyn artists and shops. And so I've become something of an amateur tour guide for design fans visiting the borough. While I love holding forth on chairs and tables, it's a thrill to be able to write about other aspects of Brooklyn besides the furniture. What follows is my guide to the best that Brooklyn has to offer. I hope it'll serve double duty: as both a practical guide to eating, shopping, and playing, and a heartfelt testament to the city I call home. EATIf there's one thing I enjoy as much as design, it's food. And what I love most about dining in Brooklyn is the sense of welcome each restaurant cultivates. As sophisticated as the food is, there's rarely the stodginess you tend to find in "fine dining" establishments across the river. The single restaurant I'd recommend above all others is DuMont, in Williamsburg. A little hipstery? Sure. Crowded at times? Definitely. But if you're looking for a place that has delicious food and a warm yet uniquely Brooklyn vibe, this is it. The unfussy modern versions of classics like croque monsieur and roasted chicken are executed perfectly and with feeling. (Don't miss the Dumac & Cheese--it's a $12 dish of heaven, with pasta, cheddar, Gruyère, Parmesan, and bacon.) Like DuMont, but over in Red Hook, Schnäck offers up comfort food with a spin, serving beer milkshakes next to onion rings and little burgers called Schnackies. It's certainly not for the faint of heart--or for those with cholesterol concerns--but if you've never tasted a beer milkshake you're in for a real treat. Since we're on a comfort food kick here, head on down to Red Hook's restaurant row (Van Brunt Street) to Baked, for a malted-milk-ball cake or cupcakes topped with red hots. Baked's creations are as satisfying as your mom's old recipes but are sold in an über-hip café designed by Brooklyn locals Hivemindesign. Unlike Baked and Schnäck, the next few restaurants won't require a postprandial trip to the gym. With an interior that's heavy on woodwork and light on frills, Red Hook's The Good Fork echoes the working-class shipyard neighborhood just outside its doors. But looks can be deceiving; this is the most polished food I have had in ages. The menu varies but always includes light pastas and dishes with an Asian flair, a nod to chef Sohui Kim's Korean heritage. The Good Fork also has an impressive drink selection. Chestnut in Carroll Gardens makes some of the freshest seasonal fare in the borough, with homemade pastas, risottos, and fulfilling soups. Call for reservations and you'll be guaranteed an enjoyable, relaxed evening. Brunch is probably my favorite meal, and Brooklyn has some of the best options in the city. Tumble out of bed on Sunday morning and head to Williamsburg's Fada for steaming bowls of hot chocolate. Whether you have pain au chocolat on the side is entirely up to you (but I strongly recommend it). Then go to Cobble Hill and listen to the ragtime-jazz band while you dine on an omelet or steak and eggs at Bar Tabac. At Union Picnic in Williamsburg, the Elvis (French toast with peanut butter and bananas) and the fried chicken with waffles are irresistible. You might consider taking a walk around McCarren Park when you're done--these dishes are a reminder of why the King had heavier years. Besides being home to beautiful brownstones, Fort Greene is one of my favorite places to indulge in my burgeoning rice obsession. A tiny restaurant tucked on Dekalb Avenue, Rice works a single main-ingredient theme. The carrot rice ball is a fantastic way to start a meal. Further north, the sister restaurants Diner and Marlow & Sons sit on a fairly quiet corner in south Williamsburg. Diner, which is inside an old 1920s Kullman Diner car, focuses on executing standards like burgers and mussels exceptionally well, while Marlow is popular for its raw bar. Neither is particularly easy on vegetarians, so be sure to call ahead to ask about the vegetarian dish of the night. Let's just say that the vegetable galette isn't always a success. At Press 195, further south in Park Slope, the name says it all. Specializing in pressed panini sandwiches, Press offers dozens of options and one heck of a dessert sandwich (Nutella, bananas, and vanilla ice cream). Just up the avenue in Prospect Heights is Franny's, which some consider the best pizza--being Southern I can't bring myself to say "pie"--in the city. Expect an ambitious list of appetizers using seasonal ingredients, and a main-course menu of pizzas. Bring an open mind: The $8 pizza topped with just olive oil and sea salt isn't pizza as you know it. Brooklyn is fast becoming a hotspot for those who are believers in market-fresh cooking. One of the restaurants leading the way is Park Slope's Applewood. The wait is often laughable, but the food is seriously delicious. And the lavender martini is a must. The last three spots on my list are favorites for different reasons. Aurora in Williamsburg dishes up authentic Italian food (and my favorite dessert--affogato, espresso poured over gelato). Little D Eatery combines local ingredients to make interesting meze-style plates. And I love Patois for its modern French cuisine. Each represents the way that Brooklyn's top chefs are taking traditional food and putting a contemporary spin on it. DuMont 432 Union Ave., Williamsburg, 718/486-7717 Schnäck 122 Union St., Red Hook, 718/855-2879, shake $5 Baked 359 Van Brunt St., Red Hook, 718/222-0345 The Good Fork 391 Van Brunt St., Red Hook, 718/643-6636, entrées from $9.50 Chestnut 271 Smith St., Carroll Gardens, 718/243-0049, entrées from $16 Fada 530 Driggs Ave., Williamsburg, 718/388-6607, brunch $11 Bar Tabac 128 Smith St., Cobble Hill, 718/923-0918, omelet $9 Union Picnic 577 Union Ave., Williamsburg, 718/387-3800, Elvis $8 Rice 166 Dekalb Ave., Fort Greene, 718/858-2700, rice ball $5 Diner 85 Broadway, Williamsburg, 718/486-3077, burger $10 Marlow & Sons 81 Broadway, Williamsburg, 718/384-1441, entrées from $14 Press 195 195 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, 718/857-1950 Franny's 295 Flatbush Ave., Prospect Heights, 718/230-0221 Applewood 501 11th St., Park Slope, 718/768-2044, entrées from $19 Aurora 70 Grand St., Williamsburg, 718/388-5100, affogato $7 Little D Eatery 434 Seventh Ave., Park Slope, 718/369-3144, small plates from $7 Patois 255 Smith St., Carroll Gardens, 718/855-1535, entrées from $13 SHOPIn the world of design, Brooklyn is a major capital. Over the last few years, the industry has looked to the borough for the latest trends and styles. And when the design world talks about Brooklyn, more often than not it's referring to Williamsburg. Once an industrial area known primarily for factories and warehouses, Williamsburg has transformed into a haven for artists, particularly those interested in furniture and product design. If a single shop could be pinpointed as the center of the change, it would be The Future Perfect. Dave Alhadeff has created a shop that's known the world over as one of the best places to discover up-and-coming designers. The merchandise is very clever and includes edgy accessories like oil lamps made from recycled (but nonworking) grenades. Once, while traveling in Chicago, I heard shop owners and design students saying "Oh, that's so Future Perfect." You know you've made it when you're an adjective. Across the street is a little jewel box of a shop called Sleep. It carries top-notch versions of what the name implies--bedding, pillows, blankets, and lingerie--and it always seems like a great place to take a nap. Resist the urge to slumber and pick up a pair of silk PJ's or even a new quilt if you've got the dough. The bedding can be a bit pricey, but the quality is excellent. Independent boutique Sodafine recently relocated from Fort Greene to Williamsburg. Artist Erin Weckerle stocks her cheerful olive-green shop with cutting-edge fashion, such as one-of-a-kind handmade shoes and crocheted earrings. This is the place to snag a piece that you won't see on your friends at home. Before you leave the 'hood, stop by Ugly Luggage on trendy Bedford Avenue and PS9 on North Ninth Street. The former specializes in retro furniture and accessories (such as old church pews, desks, and typewriters), while the latter stocks the coolest of the cool in pet gear. I love the modern cat scratchers in hot pink and electric blue. Traveling south (on the subway's G line) you'll bump right into Atlantic Avenue, home to a long stretch of vintage and antiques stores. Darr, where there's everything from mid-20th-century chairs and tables to outright oddities (think antique surgery tools, masonry, and glass apothecary jars), is probably my favorite on the avenue. If you're craving more antique furniture and feeling brave, walk down Atlantic to Horseman Antiques; the staff can be surly, but the selection is worth a trip. I've been snapped at for touching things (in a furniture store!) but the store has the stuff to back up the attitude. The things I'll endure for good vintage furniture . . . . A short ride from the Bergen Street stop on the F line is Tivoli Home, a tiny Scandinavian store tucked into a corner of the General Store (a coffee shop) in Dumbo. Tivoli carries a nice collection of Danish dish towels and ceramics and larger pieces like pendant lamps and glass candelabras. One of the reasons I moved to Park Slope was the fantastic selection of shops, like Cog & Pearl, a Fifth Avenue institution carrying goods such as blown-glass jewelry, ceramic bowls, and trays refashioned from street signs; Bird, a chic clothing shop with a branch for babies next door; modern-design store Matter, which is often compared to The Future Perfect but deserves distinction of its own; and Rare Device, a small shop specializing in indie clothing, accessories, and home decor. Park Slope is also where the Brooklyn Superhero Supply Co. makes its home. The store is affiliated with the 826NYC literacy program, founded by writer Dave Eggers (author of A Heartbreaking Work of Staggering Genius and What Is the What). The front half of the store sells gallons of "invisibility powder," secret identity kits, capes, and other superhero necessities. Proceeds go toward a free tutoring service, reachable through a hidden door in the back. Grab a cab or the B77 bus and make your way to Red Hook, one of the borough's hotter spots. At Erie Basin, Russell Whitmore has pulled together an exceptional collection of antique furniture, accessories, and jewelry. Check out the vintage cameos--they're stunning. The Future Perfect 115 N. Sixth St., Williamsburg, 718/599-6278, thefutureperfect.com Sleep 110 N. Sixth St., Williamsburg, 718/384-3211, sleepbrooklyn.com Sodafine 119 Grand St., Williamsburg, 718/230-3060, sodafine.com Ugly Luggage 214 Bedford Ave., Williamsburg, 718/384-0724 PS9 9 N. Ninth St., Williamsburg, 718/486-6465, ps9pets.com Darr 369 Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill, 718/797-9733, shopdarr.com Horseman Antiques 351 Atlantic Ave., Boerum Hill, 718/596-1048 Tivoli Home 111 Front St., Dumbo, 718/666-3050, tivolihome.com Cog & Pearl 190 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, 718/623-8200, cogandpearl.com Bird 430 Seventh Ave., Park Slope, 718/768-4940, shopbird.com Matter 227 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, 718/230-1150, mattermatters.com Rare Device 453 Seventh Ave., Park Slope, 718/301-6375, raredevice.net Brooklyn Superhero Supply Co. 372 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, 718/499-9884, superherosupplies.com Erie Basin 388 Van Brunt St., Red Hook, 718/554-6147, eriebasin.com PLAYThe bright lights of Manhattan may lure visitors to sleek clubs and trendy gallery openings, but Brooklyn has something edgier and hipper for those seeking real fun in the city (without dress codes and notorious socialites). Whether you're looking to catch a daytime concert in an abandoned pool (at McCarren Park in Williamsburg), play bocce while you drink your beer (at Floyd, NY in Carroll Gardens), or see a live Balkan brass band (at Barbès in Park Slope), Brooklyn has you covered. One of my favorite spots is right around the corner from my apartment--the Brooklyn Botanic Garden. It show-cases some of the most beautiful flora the city has to offer and hosts the breathtaking cherry blossom festival each April. After you tiptoe through the tulips (and lilacs and orchids), take a short walk down Washington Avenue and visit the renowned Brooklyn Museum. The recently redesigned façade--a sheer glass pavilion created by Polshek Partnership Architects--is representative of the museum's dedication to contemporary art. The museum also has a fantastic series of kids' programs. Even small towns boast yoga classes these days, but nothing quite compares to the outdoor Sunset Yoga classes offered by the Brooklyn Bridge Park Conservancy. Bring a mat and prepare to be awed by the view of the Manhattan skyline. Unlike Manhattan, Brooklyn has a significant amount of open space. From rambling parks and playgrounds to vast rooftops, Brooklyn places an emphasis on getting outside and enjoying the natural beauty of the borough. One of Brooklyn's most beloved alfresco activities starts at a mere $8. Every Friday and Saturday night, and some Thursdays, in summer the Rooftop Films association hosts a festival of shorts and features at various locations, such as on warehouse roofs or at parks. Filmmakers can even submit their own efforts for consideration. I'm sure nothing beats seeing your hard work projected on a screen while gazing out at the Brooklyn, Manhattan, and Williamsburg Bridges. If you're in Williamsburg, check out the newly reopened McCarren Park Pool. A popular public pool in the '30s and '40s, it was closed in the mid-'80s and became known primarily for its rather seedy nighttime inhabitants. But a few years ago the city cleaned it up, and now the space is used for dance and music performances. It's one of the hottest places to see bands like Sonic Youth and the Walkmen perform in the summer. Music fans will also want to hit Southpaw on Park Slope's Fifth Avenue. Once a small venue specializing in great local bands, Southpaw has become a rock and roll institution, attracting nationally known acts like Cat Power and Sufjan Stevens. Looking for something a bit more eclectic? Moto, in south Williamsburg, is under the tracks of the J, M, and Z subway lines (look for the bike hanging above the door). The owners, both motorcycle renovators, have created an old-world European feel where you can hear live bluegrass and klezmer music while drinking a pint of the Belgian ale Corsendonk or one of the amazing wine selections. The Riviera gallery on Metropolitan Avenue is part of Williamsburg's growing gallery scene. Some of the most interesting artists and illustrators around, such as Hyemi Cho and Dan Funderburg, have shown there lately. Any Brooklyn story would be lacking if it didn't mention two classic spots. Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and Calvert Vaux (who created Central Park in Manhattan), Prospect Park occupies more than 585 acres in the heart of the borough. With soccer and baseball fields and wide-open areas for picnics, the park is one of the few places where city residents can escape into nature. If sunbathing isn't for you, check out the pedal boats in the lake. And these days, Coney Island is far more than the beach, Nathan's Famous hot dogs, and the Cyclone roller coaster. You can root for a minor-league baseball team, the Cyclones; gasp at the Mermaid Parade (Brooklyn's answer to Mardi Gras, this year's is June 23); and listen to great music at The Village Voice's Siren Music Festival in July. There's a buzz in the area: A group called Creative Time gathered artists to do pro bono work, painting signs and sprucing up storefronts and concession stands. My favorite entertainment spot in Brooklyn, Pete's Candy Store, holds a special place in my heart as the site of my first date with my boyfriend. Pete's serves tasty drinks and bar food, but is best known for its weekly events, like a reading series, stand-up comedy, and even a spelling bee. Grab a pint and make a night of it. You'll be glad you came. McCarren Park Pool Lorimer St. and Driggs Ave., Williamsburg, 212/639-9675, nycgovparks.org Floyd, NY 131 Atlantic Ave., Carroll Gardens, 718/858-5810, floydny.com Barbès 376 Ninth St., Park Slope, 718/965-9177, barbesbrooklyn.com Brooklyn Botanic Garden 900 Washington Ave., Prospect Heights, 718/623-7200, bbg.org, $5, closed Mon. Brooklyn Museum 200 Eastern Pkwy., Prospect Heights, 718/638-5000, brooklynmuseum.org, $8, closed Mon. and Tues. Brooklyn Bridge Park Conservancy Empire-Fulton Ferry State Park, Dumbo, 718/802-0603, brooklynbridgepark.org Rooftop Films 718/417-7362, rooftopfilms.com Southpaw 125 Fifth Ave., Park Slope, 718/230-0236, spsounds.com Moto 394 Broadway, Williamsburg, 718/599-6895, circa1938.com The Riviera 103 Metropolitan Ave., Williamsburg, 718/599-5589, seeyouattheriviera.com Prospect Park 718/965-8999, prospectpark.org Coney Island 718/372-5159, coneyisland.com Pete's Candy Store 709 Lorimer St., Williamsburg, 718/302-3770, petescandystore.com

1. Roger that! Traveling by cruise ship with family members or friends? Bring along battery-operated two-way radios such as Motorola's Talkabouts to keep everyone connected. Typically used for skiing, they worked great on our family cruise. Sherry Brooks, Westlake Village, Calif. 2. Wrap music. To protect your digital camera or MP3 player from getting soaked in the rain, encase it in a single layer of Glad Press 'n Seal wrap (the new stuff that's a little thicker). Then use a razor to cut a hole for the camera's lens area; for the MP3 player, just jam the earphone plug through the plastic and into the jack. You can still see the screen and operate the functions through the wrap. I've used both devices during downpours and had success each and every time. Simon Langler, Oakville, Ont. 3. Location, location, location. When renting an apartment abroad, take a map and detailed directions. This is especially helpful if you're not fluent in the language. I encountered taxi drivers in Brussels, Madrid, Seville, and Palermo who had no idea how to find the address of the apartment I had rented. Gary Maier, New Westminster, B.C. 4. Peachy Keen. I thought Keen all-terrain shoes were a little funny-looking, what with the rubber strip extending over the toe (keenfootwear.com), but I wanted a shoe with lots of ventilation for a recent trip to Europe. There was nothing funny about them when we were tromping through Rome in a thunderstorm and I was the only one with dry feet. I couldn't have been happier, and everyone on the trip was envious. Kathy Reilly, Sacramento, Calif. 5. The ship's shape. My husband and I just came back from the Bahamas on a Carnival cruise. The ship was huge, so we went to the purser's desk and got a small map of the ship--it fit perfectly in an evening bag. Before we ventured to an activity or event, we mapped an efficient route there. Unlike other passengers, we were a happy, calm couple getting to where we needed to be! Sheila Rodis Bradshaw, Glen Allen, Va. You can find more tips in the April 2007 issue of Budget Travel magazine.

In his new book Sound Bites, lead singer Alex Kapranos—who dreamed about forming a rock band while working in a restaurant kitchen—recounts vivid, thoughtful tales about everything from doughnuts in Brooklyn to blowfish in Osaka. Read an excerpt about his favorite place to eat back home in Glasgow. FORLORN FRIDGE - glasgow The food has been in the fridge for two and a half years. I'm back in my Glasgow flat. I'm not home often. Everything is as it was when I left for Sweden, in the summer of 2003, to record our first album. A packet of vine leaves, a jar of chilli paste, something that looks like dripping and a carton of orange. All still there. Tonight I'm eating out. Again. I rattle West of Dennistoun in a cab, along the fizzing spray of motorway, a mile of dirty concrete cast across the city like a slice of gristle through the Glaswegian heart. Clattering off at Charing Cross, we pull up in the dead-end of Argyll Street, Finnieston. Brutalist blocks of flats loom from the gentle rain. The scaffolding-clad Kingston Bridge dominates the skyline. Sodium half-light ripples off puddles, black as blood at midnight. A draggled whippet shambles past in a fluorescent orange coat. I'm eating at the oldest, noblest restaurant in town.The Buttery was built in the mid-nineteenth century. Originally a wine merchant's cellar, it expanded over the next hundred years and gained a reputation for its food. In the late 1960s, Glasgow's town planners tore up the city. The tenements of Finnieston were razed. The only building left standing was the Buttery. Apparently, it survived because the architects and contractors ripping up the city didn't want to lose their favourite haunt. A Masonic plaque on the wall outside, bright under a lonely spotlight, may be another clue to its survival. I'm eating with a friend who updates me with six months of gossip, asks the waiter for another one of those crispy things and whispers that she feels awkward as a socialist for eating somewhere like this. She's distracted by a bottle of heavy red, and we lean back into the padding of our chairs. The peaceful warmth envelops us like a good library with the reassurance of ancient oak, leather and stained glass. Like the best of Scottish menus, the Buttery's is an entente cordiale of French and Caledonian cuisine: Loin of Ayrshire Lamb and Provencal Vegetables. Smoked Confit of French Hen with Spiced Haggis-- the chieftain of the pudding race, maligned in undeserved disgrace. I love this bag of sheep bits and oatmeal. In an age of gourmet sausages and head-to-tail eating, it is worthy of a higher place in the culinary canon. The aromatic richness is balanced by one of the greatest textures to greet the teeth, a gentle bite between your porcelain. While haggis now regularly appears on the menus of good Scottish restaurants, it is still treated with suspicion outside the country. I can't recommend it enough. It is a true regional delicacy: nothing else in the world has the same texture or flavour. It's not even a particularly acquired taste--there is nothing too extreme about it. It is best when bought from a good local butcher in Scotland, but the biggest supplier of good haggis is MacSween's of Edinburgh. They export all over the planet and, if the idea of a sheep's pluck boiled with oatmeal in a stomach lining is too much for you, they also make a vegetarian version. Poached pears and whisky ice cream conclude one of the best meals I've had in around 60,000 miles of traveling. As we step back out into the street, there is a sense of Brigadoon in the drizzle. It seems improbable that this place could still be there in the daylight of tomorrow. I'm just glad that Masonic architects spared it and saved me from my forlorn fridge.