Secrets of São Paulo

By Andrea Sachs
March 8, 2009
The Galeria Melissa shoe store
Unexpected experts share their São Paulo favorites in a new guidebook.

To research her new book, Total São Paulo: A Guide to the Unexpected, Phuong-Cac Nguyen turned to a surprising group of experts—a tattoo artist, a club impresario, a graffiti tagger, a sex worker, and 15 others—to unveil parts of the city usually seen only by the locals. "It's a guidebook for creative types, so I interviewed the very people who would read it," says the L.A. native, who fell for São Paulo on a backpacking trip through South America three years ago and now calls it home. "There's a reason Paulistas choose to live in this eclectic town instead of in Rio de Janeiro. Where else can you find a Brazilian restaurant and bar run by a pair of sumo wrestlers?"

A barbershop with benefits
At Barbearia 9 de Julho, a 1950s-style rockabilly hair salon, patrons can sip cocktails made with Jack Daniel's while getting coiffed. Rua Augusta 1371, 011-55/11-3283-0170, haircuts from $8.75, drinks from $1.

Shoe shopping
If you think the Brazilian-made Havaianas flip-flops have a cult following, wait until you try on the shoes at Galeria Melissa. The plastic footwear (ballet slippers, almost-four-inch pumps, sneakers) is scented like tutti-frutti and comes in a rainbow of colors, including hot pink and bronze. Rua Oscar Freire 827, 011-55/11-3083-3612, from $22.

Faith-based medicine
According to legend, a friar at the Mosteiro da Luz convent cured a man of gallstones by prescribing pills he made from rolled scraps of paper inscribed with prayers. To this day, nuns at the monastery make free "paper miracle tablets" based on his 18th-century formula. Avenida Tiradentes 676, 011-55/11-3311-8745.

São Paulo's choice steak
One dish easily feeds a family of three at Consulado Mineiro, a traditional Brazilian restaurant that makes standout carne do sol, dried beef from the country's Minas Gerais region. Praca Benedito Calixto 74, 011-55/11-3088-6055, entrées from $20.

Street art
Some of Brazil's biggest names in graffiti have left their marks along Beco do Batman, a one-block alleyway off Rua Harmonia that's been transformed into a virtual gallery. The graffitied lane is in the neighborhood of Vila Madalena, up the street from the São Paulo Cemetery.

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"History Is More Interesting Now!" The girls' AP European history class took on a whole new light after their Roman adventure. "I never liked the subject before, but all of a sudden I'm defending it to the other kids," Hannah says. "The other day they were complaining about it, and I was like, 'No, it's so cool!' " Natural beauty The guide at the Vatican explained that in the past, a few popes objected to the outright nudity of the statues, so they had the risqué parts covered with fig leaves. Hannah and Paige made a game out of the trivia, snapping photos of all the fig-less sculptures they could find—they ended up with 10 in all. In the 'hood A bridge connects Trastevere, where the group stayed, to the rest of Rome. "I loved our neighborhood," says Hannah. "In U.S. cities, alleys can be kind of sketchy, but there they were so cute, and you just wanted to explore them." Hot sites During a private tour of the city sights, the crew stopped at the Trajan's Market ruins. "Our guide told us it was built as a shopping arcade," says Tamar. "The girls were so interested in everything he said. Of course, it didn't hurt that he was absolutely gorgeous!" Relishing the ruins "The thing that amazed us the most about Rome was that there were ancient ruins everywhere," Tamar says. "I think James summed it up best when he said that if any of this stuff were in the U.S., it would be roped off and behind glass. In Rome, it's just all out in the open and a normal part of life." Waterworks "All the fountains were so pretty!" Hannah says. During a nighttime stroll, she and Paige posed on one, near the Spanish Steps. But the Trevi Fountain was everyone's favorite. "None of us had any idea how huge it is," Tamar says. "We could hear the water rushing even before we saw the fountain." Legend has it that if you toss a coin into the fountain, you'll return to Rome. "We didn't have any small coins, but it didn't matter—we threw in the big ones instead!"

A Teen-Approved Roman Holiday

Interested in getting coached? E-mail us your questions—seriously, the more the better—to Letters@BudgetTravel.com. DEAR TRIP COACH... My friend Simone and I are single moms, and we're taking our kids—an 11-year-old boy and two girls, one 15 and one 16—to Rome. All three are at an age when ancient ruins, historic sites, and art are a bit of a hard sell. Can you offer some advice to make it fun for all of us? Tamar Abrams, Arlington, Va. FIRE AWAY! We're renting an apartment in the Trastevere neighborhood. How do we get from there to the best sights? Great choice! Trastevere is a lively neighborhood characterized by narrow cobblestoned streets and an open-air market. It's across the Tiber River from Rome's historic center, about a 15-minute walk from many of the top spots: the Forum, the Pantheon, Campo de' Fiori. You can also take the bus. Tickets are $1.25 and good for 75 minutes, and the system is superefficient, with stops near every major site. Do you have any suggestions for captivating this crew? With a fountain and a gelateria around every corner—not to mention some of the best clothes shopping in the world—we guarantee everyone will be into it from the get-go. That said, it's wise to get your kids invested in the itinerary by having each of them create a list of must-sees. Liven up museum and church visits by keeping a running tally of the Caravaggios—how many can you see in a week? Pre-trip, gather ideas by watching travel shows and movies together (it's impossible to watch Roman Holiday and not fall in love with the city). The teens will also love reading Lindsey Davis's Falco series, in which detective Marcus Didius Falco and his wife, Helena, solve crimes in 1st-century Rome. And for the 11-year-old, there's Caroline Lawrence's page-turning series, The Roman Mysteries. What are some specific spots the kids might enjoy? Rome's most famous sights, such as the Sistine Chapel's ceiling and the Trevi Fountain, are sure bets. The Crypta Balbi museum is less well-known, but no less enthralling. It's built around the ruins of an ancient theater, and you get a close-up look at layer upon layer of civilization (via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 011-39/06-3996-7700, $9.25). Of course, you'll all want to do some serious pizza research. Locals love Pizzeria Baffetto, where the Volpetti family serves pies baked in wood-fired ovens (via del Governo Vecchio 114, 011-39/06-686-1617, pizzeriabaffetto.it, pizza from $6.50). And when they've had a culture overload? You can rent bicycles from the rack at the north end of Ponte Milvio, the bridge north of the Pantheon, and follow the path that runs along the Tiber. You'll be amazed by how quickly you'll escape the urban hubbub—fields and trees replace all the buildings in no time. For an easy day trip, hop on any northbound train from Roma Trastevere ($3.25) and get off 45 minutes later at Santa Severa, a village with long stretches of sand and a fairy-tale medieval castle on the beach. The inside of the castle is being reno­vated, so you won't have to drag anyone in. Shoe shopping is a must for us. Any great places to find Italian leather shoes at decent prices? Nuyorica (piazza Pollarola 36, 011-39/06-6889-1243) and Loco (via dei Baullari 22, 011-39/06-6880-8216) carry designer collections, but the prices are high enough that you'll want to look but not buy. A few blocks away, Borini looks like a hole in the wall, but the shoes are fashionable, well-made, and start at less than $100 (via dei Pettinari 86, 011-39/06-687-5670). For real bargains, head to piazza Testaccio's morning market. In the northern aisle, beyond the fruit and vegetable vendors, there are stalls with huge piles of shoes with minor defects, catwalk cast-offs, and last year's models at cut-rate prices. During the week, you'll find mostly women's and children's shoes; men's designs dominate on Saturdays (8 a.m. to about 1 p.m., closed Sun.). Can you recommend how to explore the Jewish history of the city? Rome is so connected with Catholicism that few people realize its Jewish community is among Europe's oldest. The bustling Jewish quarter is full of cafés and restaurants. Museo Ebraico di Roma, in the Tempio Maggiore synagogue (or La Sinagoga), chronicles the history of the community, including harrowing reminders of the deportation during World War II (Lungotevere Cenci, 011-39/06-6840-0661, museoebraico.roma.it, $10). Take a walk along the main pedestrian street, via Portico d'Ottavia, and stop for a bite at Sora Margherita, known for its simple but delicious renditions of classic Roman-Jewish dishes, such as fried artichokes (piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, 011-39/06-687-4216, entrées from $19.75). And don't miss Forno del Ghetto. The miniscule bakery is run by a handful of women who couldn't be grumpier, but the pastries are some of the best in the city; at least one of you should get the torta di ricotta con le visciole, a tart made with ricotta cheese and sour cherries (via Portico d'Ottavia 1, 011-39/06-687-8637). We want to visit Pompeii, but we're not sure if we should make it a day trip or stay the night. The trip from Rome to Pompeii takes about two and a half hours total thanks to the new high-speed train service to Naples (011-39/06-6847-5475, trenitalia.com). But getting there and back in one day is a little ambitious. Consider breaking up the outing by stopping in Naples for the night, but keep in mind that the noisy city isn't for the faint of heart: A stroll along Spaccanapoli, the main drag that cuts straight through the center of town, will leave your ears ringing as you dodge weaving motorini and battle the crowds, all against a backdrop of gloriously crumbling baroque masonry. Keep your hand firmly on your purse, be prepared to use your elbows, and plunge in. Take refuge at Hotel Europeo. The rooms are a bit sparse, but the convenient location—right in the center of the city, near the Spaccanapoli—is ideal (via Mezzocannone 109, 011-39/081-551-7254, sea-hotels.com, from $70). Pompeii is the perfect historic destination for older kids—who wouldn't be mesmerized by an ancient city preserved by lava? You'll see fully intact bakeries, casts of bodies frozen in time, and furnished villas, all from A.D. 79. Pay particular attention to the frescoes in the shops that line the main via dell'Abbondanza; several of them have recently been restored (entrance to the ruins $14.50). OK, our daughters are making us ask: Where can teenage girls meet—or at least watch—Italian boys? During the evening, Campo de' Fiori is a tame hangout, but after midnight it resembles a frat party. The San Lorenzo area is a favorite with the alternative crowd. Don't be scared by appearances: Most of the kids are high school and university students. In the same neighborhood, your 11-year-old will love Said, an industrial-chic chocolate factory. It's worth starting with a round of the tasty pastas and salads before diving into the chocolate selections (via Tiburtina 135, 011-39/06-446-9204, from $8). Unasked-for advice All 18 flavors at Il Gelato di San Crispino, including the signature, made from Sardinian honey, are preservative-free (via della Panetteria 42, www.ilgelatodisancrispino.com).

20 Tips

What's your best travel tip? Send us your tips, and if we publish one, you'll get a one-year subscription (or a renewal) to Budget Travel. You can e-mail them to us at Tips@BudgetTravel.com. Best Tips Ever The cleverest tips we've ever run are in The Smart Traveler's Passport, a handy book available at Amazon.com and select bookstores. Send us a tip: If yours is one that we illustrate, we'll send you a free book (and a year's subscription to the magazine). 1. Fast track in Florida I'm a former travel-industry professional based in Orlando, and this is my best secret for getting around town without delays: Avoid the eternally congested International Drive and take Universal Boulevard instead. It runs parallel to I-Drive, but the comparisons end there. Janey Womeldorf, Orlando, Fla. 2. Talk is cheap When we traveled to Mexico, we wanted to stay in touch with family and friends back home. We found a free application on iTunes called Truphone that turns our iPhone into an Internet phone. We simply downloaded the app, bought a certain amount of time, and made calls by connecting through our resort's free Wi-Fi. We were in contact with everyone for just a few cents a minute. Wil Cuyco, Oakland, Calif. 3. D.C.'s dramatic side To save on theater, dance, and opera productions in Washington, D.C., check out the half-price tickets from the Cultural Alliance of Greater Washington. Seats for same-day performances are available on the company's website, culturecapital.com, from midnight to 4 p.m. You can also go to the ticket booth for show deals up to a week in advance (407 Seventh St. NW). Helen E. Disenhaus, Washington, D.C. 4. Scientific genius If you have a membership to your local science museum and it's a part of the Association of Science-Technology Centers, you can get free admission to hundreds of its affiliates throughout the country, such as L.A.'s Natural History Museum and the Chicago Children's Museum. In the past year, we've visited eight museums with our children and have saved more than $500. Linda Holt, Camden, Maine 5. Pocket pill protector When I travel, I carry a Tic Tac container in my pocket filled with a supply of any medications I might need, with a label for each on the outside. It's made of hard plastic, so the pills are protected—and I am never out of luck if my luggage goes astray. Dave Milligan, Nibley, Utah 6. Peace offering If you're planning a trip to an underdeveloped country, go to peacecorps.gov to see if the Peace Corps has a presence there. The volunteers will likely be your best source for local tips and recommendations. And if you bring them U.S. magazines or M&M's (a favorite because the candy doesn't melt quickly), you'll make friends fast! Amy Nelson, Arlington, Va. 7. Twin remedies Dramamine and Benadryl contain similar active ingredients, so I use them interchangeably. I had a mild allergic reaction while I was on a trip and took Dramamine; it worked just as well as Benadryl would have. Ira Massarsky, Wheeling, Ill. 8. Bag your bags After traveling through New Zealand, we went to Australia for three weeks. Rather than drag all of our luggage with us, we put it in a mini-storage facility a few miles from Auckland Airport. This was cheaper than leaving the bags at the airport, and since we had a long layover in New Zealand on our way back to the States, it was a great solution. Nada Wheelock, Vancouver, Wash. 9. Road-food fix I clip coupons for restaurant chains and keep them in the glove compartment. On car trips, my family and I eat most of our meals on the road, and it's easy to just pull out the coupons. Rebecca Ayala, Houston, Tex. 10. Make a match I found a great way to keep track of earrings when I travel. I find old buttons, put the earring posts through the holes, and attach the backs. I use one button per pair, so I never have to dig around to find a stray. Robin Wilfong, Fremont, Calif. 11. Suitcase Rx Bicycle tire-repair kits are handy to have with you on trips. If your bag gets torn in transit, just slap on one of the patches. The kits are only about $10 each, and the patches are designed for tires, so they're more than tough enough to hold a suitcase together. Jim Page, Waltham, Mass. 12. Artful arrangement If you arrive in a city with carry-on luggage and your hotel room won't be ready for several hours, go to a major museum. Some will let you store your bag for a nominal fee—you might not even have to buy a ticket. I did this at the British Museum in London, where it costs only $1.50 to store a carry-on. It was nice to be able to get in some sightseeing without having to lug my bag everywhere! Craig Harris, Roanoke, Va. 13. Entrée to Vienna If you fly Austrian Airlines, be sure to hold on to your boarding pass. For 10 days after the date of your flight, the ticket qualifies you for discounted admission to several cultural venues around the world, including KunstHausWien and the Sigmund Freud Museum in Vienna, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection in Venice, the Museu de la Xocolata de Barcelona, and the Neue Galerie New York. Deb Smith, Calgary, Alberta 14. Put a lid on your lens Even if you don't wear shower caps while bathing, it's a good idea to save the disposable ones that come free in your hotel room. They're great for covering your camera during rain showers. Joseph Chan, Davis, Calif. 15. Second time's a charm When my girlfriend and I go on tours of cities, we always ask our guide where we should eat. If the guide comes back with the name of a big tourist spot, we then ask, "Where would you go?" That usually prompts the name of an off-the-beaten-path place frequented by locals. This tactic has allowed us to try barbecued goat and plantains in Curaçao, share tequila with the owner of a small restaurant in Puerto Vallarta, and have an impromptu cooking lesson with a chef in Dominica—experiences we wouldn't have had if we'd just accepted the first answer. Nyal R. Cammack, Las Cruces, N.M. 16. Hang on—and on I recently returned from a wonderful three-week vacation in which we had great accommodations—except for the lack of hooks and towel bars in the bedroom and bathroom. We now know that we should always pack a stash of removable hooks when we travel. They're inexpensive, they don't take up much room in the suitcase, and best of all, you can apply and remove them without leaving marks on the wall when you check out. Then you can reuse them on your next trip. Marilyn Opp, Stillwater, Minn. 17. The deep-pocket approach When I took a transatlantic cruise with stops in five countries, I found it frustrating to dig through my pockets and bags before going through metal detectors at each port. I finally put my change, money clip, keys, and watch in a Ziploc bag. Every time I was in a security line, I just slipped the bag out of my pocket and handed it to the guard. No fuss! Dan Heath, Marinette, Wis. 18. Pattern play Before big family trips, I always buy a yard of colorful fabric—I found a print with zebras for a trip to Africa and one with lizards for Costa Rica. It makes a festive tablecloth or picnic blanket during our travels. Back home, I glue a piece to the front of our vacation album, which makes it easy to spot and brings back good memories. Janeen McAllister, St. Paul, Minn. 19. Rain it in Ever wonder what to do with a soaking wet umbrella when you're shopping or going to the theater? Slide it into one of those clear plastic bags that your newspaper is delivered in. I keep a stash of the bags in my purse for precisely this purpose. Jerilyn Zust, Lakewood, Ohio 20. The water that works My husband and I just got back from Egypt and Jordan, where we read that it's unwise to rinse toothbrushes with tap water. We boiled tap water in our hotel-room coffeepot and brushed with that. We stayed healthy the whole trip! Linda Hansell, Chapel Hill, N.C.

Travelers' Tales

New Prize The best response we receive between April 18, 2009, and May 10, 2009, wins a four-night trip for four people to the Loews Coronado Bay Resort in Coronado, Calif., courtesy of Loews. The prize includes one bay-view room, breakfast daily, and activities like dive-in movies and bay-side marshmallow roasts. For more info: 800/815-6397, loewshotels.com. How to enter E-mail us at TrueStories@BudgetTravel.com or mail us at True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., New York, NY 10018. For a complete rundown of the contest guidelines, please see BudgetTravel.com/truestories. Trip Winner April's winner is Jim Barnett of Brookhaven, Miss. His prize is two nights in Puerto Rico for two people, plus dinner and a spa treatment, courtesy of Rio Mar Beach Resort & Spa. Two friends and I decided to drive from Dallas to check out a lake in Mexico that was known for its bass. After crossing the border in the dark, we got quite lost, and as we were driving through a village, a policeman stopped us. Realizing that none of us spoke Spanish, he had me, the driver, walk with him about two blocks to the jail. When he got out the keys and opened a cell, I thought, This is it. Imagine my surprise when a prisoner came out and said, "May I help you?" The policeman temporarily released the man so he could help us get to the lake. The prisoner—who said he had been locked up after a car accident even though he was innocent—joined us for two great days of fishing and good food. Then we returned him to custody. Viva Mexico! A nice clear lip gloss might be a better look for him During our 10th-anniversary trip to Ubud, Bali, the staff at our villa offered to photograph me and my husband in traditional Balinese wedding attire. On a sweltering afternoon, I allowed myself to be slathered in heavy makeup and wrapped in yards of sarongs and sashes. For a plus-size woman, this was no easy feat, and the attendants used dozens of safety pins to keep everything in place. My extremely introverted husband was mortified when they beckoned for him. It took plenty of coaxing, but he finally relented. Erin Tapken, Marion, Iowa Are neck skirts the new look? After visiting London, I flew to Florence to study abroad. I checked two large bags and was left with my purse and a carry-on. At security, I was told my carry-on was too big and that I couldn't bring it. I was about to miss my flight, so I had to think fast. I stepped out of line, opened the bag, and put on every last article of clothing—four shirts, two sweaters, two jackets, and finally two skirts, which I draped around my neck. To pass through the metal detector, I had to take off my shoes, jackets, sweaters, and neck skirts...and then put them all back on again. But it worked! Hannah Welch, Los Angeles, Calif. At least he was listening While on vacation at a resort, my husband and I went to the buffet for lunch. After making my choices, I sat down and resumed our conversation where I had left off. I finally looked up from my plate, only to realize that the man at the table was not my husband! My companion was staring at me, dumbfounded, and then we both burst out laughing. As for my husband, he had been sitting one table over, watching the whole thing. For the rest of the week, every time the man saw me, he waved and called out, "Hi, honey!" Grace Kapelanski, Palos Park, Ill. Maybe start with a teacup I traveled to Malawi to visit a friend. Her village was remote, and we had to haul water from the village well to her house. I usually spilled half of mine en route and was amazed by how gracefully the local women and girls carried the bucket without spilling a drop. They made it look so effortless that I decided to try their method. I started by practicing with an empty bucket. Once I got to the well, I filled my container half full before hefting it. All eyes were on me, but I made it just a few steps before giving up. In the end, I had to ask a girl half my age to carry my bucket for me. Sarah Ruttan, Tucson, Ariz. And we always thought one star was the lowest My family traveled through China, and instead of booking fancy hotels, we wanted to stay in smaller, more authentic places in the oldest parts of each town. All of our many guides, however, were star-minded, proudly pointing out every five-star hotel that we passed along the way. On the road to Lijiang, our guide and our driver conferred and selected a restaurant for lunch. It was a great meal. Afterward, we asked about the bathrooms. The guide went to check with the owners and came back to tell us, "Toilets are no star." He certainly was right about that: The so-called toilets were just open trenches next to the pigsty. Judith Capen, Washington, D.C. The adult chips are kept behind the register While in Sardinia, Italy, I intended to immerse myself in the culture by sampling the local food and wine and exploring the island. I was quite surprised when the general store next to a Sardinian history museum prominently featured a shelf loaded with this particular delicacy. Summer Brown, Blacksburg, Va. This time, you can't really blame the monkey Visiting the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, we were charmed by how close you could get to the animals at feeding time. The green monkeys are wild and roam the island freely. They tend to come to the reserve to get snacks from the tourists. One sat on a bench next to my friend Carol, and she proceeded to show it things—her purse, her keys, her glasses. Each time she offered something to our new friend, he'd reach a paw out to investigate, but Carol always pulled the item back. At last, the monkey had enough of Carol's teasing; it decided to show her something and gave her a bite on the bum! Kathy Noll, Reading, Pa. Easiest mistake in the world My wife and I were in Puerto Vallarta at an open-air market that had a greeter, much like our Wal-Mart back home does. He smiled and welcomed us in Spanish. Using my best high-school Spanish, I responded, and asked, "What time do you close?" The greeter's smile vanished, and he stepped back slowly and then ran away. While my wife and I tried to figure out what went wrong, the greeter returned with a machine-gun-toting policeman, who asked me in English, "What is your problem, señor?" I told him I had asked what time the market closed and repeated what I had said in Spanish. The policeman laughed and explained, "You did not say, 'What time do you close?' You asked, 'What time do you want to die?'" Needless to say, I stuck with English from that point on. Harold Cole, Johnson City, Tenn. Try checking under the horse I took a carriage ride in Egypt arranged by my guide, who paid the tip in advance. My driver told me that his horse was pregnant. She didn't look pregnant, but what do I know about pregnant horses? He also talked about the cost of sending his son, who was in the carriage with us, to school. After all that, of course, I gave him a second tip. When I told my guide about the day, he laughed and said, "I know your driver very well. His horse is male, and he has no children." That day I was taken for two rides. Jane Rosenberg, Houston, Tex. Souvenirs of what, exactly? While traveling in China and Tibet with a group of older couples, we stayed at a hotel in Lhasa. In the bathrooms we found condoms in decorative wrappers with a sign saying that they were 25¢ each. After a three-day stay, our group was on the bus ready to leave when the manager came running out and asked who had stayed in No. 207. Bill and Barbara held up their hands, at which point the manager said loudly, "You used the condoms and didn't pay for them!" There was a roar of laughter and two very red faces. Barbara had taken the condoms as souvenirs. Leonard E. Snyder, Flat Rock, N.C. On second thought, we'll take those Italian chips By my third tour of Cambodia, I thought I had seen the world's weirdest foods, like deep-fried spiders and "thousand-year-old" duck eggs, which are buried for months until the yolk is green. But I was not prepared when a woman approached me in Kompong Cham with a tray of snakes. I had my choice of boiled or deep-fried. I've eaten some strange things, but I just couldn't bring myself to try those creatures—some were still twitching! Adam Lempel, Chesterfield, N.H. Try bungee jumping again? In New Zealand, I had the opportunity to bungee jump at the famous Kawarau Bridge, and I really wanted to do it. Just one drawback: I wear dentures. I asked the busload of strangers I was touring with if anyone had denture adhesive. A Scottish lady loaned me hers. I ran to the bathroom, applied the cream, and hurried out. But my new friend sent me back for "a wee bit more—just to be sure," she said. Well, I jumped and survived. Three days later, I had to stand up on the bus and ask if anyone had any idea how I could get the stupid teeth out of my mouth. Bonnie Poynor, Hickman, Ky. Is husband swapping a new trend out there? My husband, Jason, and I were in Key Largo, Fla., and went snorkeling at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park. After a few minutes, I saw a beautiful blue fish. I grabbed Jason's hand so I could bring him to see it, but he swam in the other direction. I followed him, locked my fingers in his, and started pulling him toward my favorite fish. I heard a "mmm mmm" sound under the water. Jason pulled his hand away and shook his head. I stared into his mask and realized that it wasn't my husband—just another snorkeler wearing a similar swimsuit! My husband still reminds me about the time I tried to pick up a guy underwater. Eileen O'Neill, San Francisco, Calif. It's not like you met there Before my husband and I were married, we took a trip to Turkey. On a very hot day in August, we arrived at the ancient city of Ephesus. I wanted a guided tour, but my then boyfriend had a hidden agenda and insisted we venture through the city by ourselves. After a couple of hours, he took my hand and led me to a building that our map identified as the House of Love. We went inside, just the two of us, and he got down on one knee and proposed. I said yes, and on our way out we bought books about the history of Ephesus. Back home, when we finally looked through the guides, we learned that our House of Love was so named because it had originally been a brothel. Kathleen Eren, Indianapolis, Ind. But you just wasted 35¢ After traveling from Virginia to visit our daughter in Chiang Mai, Thailand, my wife and I were quite fatigued. We had dinner with her but were soon ready to go to the hotel. During negotiations for the price of a ride, she wanted to show us that she was a resident who would not be taken advantage of. We waited patiently as she waved down a songthaew (taxi) three times, bargained with each driver, and then sent each one away. I asked what the problem was, and she told me that they were trying to take advantage of us. They wanted to charge us 30 baht ($1 back then) each. She was able to get them down to 15 baht, but locals generally only pay 10 baht. She was determined to get us a ride for that price. Needless to say, we put an end to the negotiations and hopped in the next songthaew that came along. Thomas G. Ryon, Warrenton, Va.