SoCal's Coolest Street

By Lizbeth Scordo
April 5, 2006
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courtesy of LA INC. The Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau

A true Southern California beach town, Venice Beach is famous for its boardwalk, where skating musclemen sashay past cheesy trinket shops. But one mile east, Abbot Kinney Boulevard has recently become the pleasant polar opposite: a long, mellow street of independent boutiques.

Surfing Cowboys has everything a dude could want (1624 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 310/450-4891). In 1999, former fashion photographers Wayne and Donna Gunther began turning their studio, where they also lived, into this shop, stocking it with collectibles, mid-century furniture, and art. Antique surfboards, roughly hewn wooden tables, and rare hula-girl figurines can cost upward of $1,000, but there are also plenty of reasonably priced mementos, such as vintage surf posters (from $25) and the store's popular CHARLIE DON'T SURF T-shirts, a reference to Apocalypse Now ($18).

Creative types have long been attracted to Venice, and the gallery Ten Women puts their efforts on display (#1237, 310/452-2256). Contrary to what its name implies, Ten Women is a co-op that actually includes 21 painters, sculptors, jewelry designers, and photographers, who all split the rent, sell their wares, and staff the counter. Each artist works a three-hour shift once a week, so there's always an informed clerk on hand. Jewelry designer Phyllis Kalionzes creates dangling earrings with imported early-20th-century glass beads ($20); Peggy McKeever bakes colorful, tangled telephone wires into sculptures in the shape of women's dresses (from $20).

Best friends Katherine Kemp and Kim Michalowski run Ananda Shakti, a boutique with affordable goods that have a global vibe (#1354, 310/399-4186). Necklaces imported from Brazil are made of dried seeds and nuts strung together on twine ($38). They also stock a line of shirts with drawings of Buddhist temples ($30) by a Venice-based company called Custom.

While many area shops find friends and couples partnering, friends Erinn Berkson and Elizabeth McConocha decided they needed their own spaces--sort of. Berkson's seven-year-old Firefly stocks clothing, jewelry, accessories, and pampering products, such as aromatic eye pillows ($18) stuffed with dried herbs and flowers (#1413, 310/450-6288). There's a cottage in the back, where two years ago McConocha opened In the Garden (310/450-3828). Outdoor lamps of iron and weather-resistant paper ($50) sit alongside garden gnomes ($39).

French-trained jewelry maker Sandrine Klein sells her work at The Goddess (#1507, 310/314-1494), and on the first and third Sunday mornings of each month, she and her staff teach a class called Bead & Breakfast. A handful of gemstones, a chain, and a clasp start at $25--the coffee, pastries, and advice are free.

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A Softy for Milwaukee

At 17, I was never too pooped to polka. I grew up in the suburbs of Milwaukee, and on Friday nights, a group of friends from high school and I would go to a restaurant outside town called Etzel's. It was a classic wood-paneled German-American joint, the kind of place where Friday night's fish fry was the biggest event around. We would drink beer, and once the polka band started up, we'd swing into action. Part of the fun was asking folks to join us in kicking up our heels to "Roll Out the Barrel." It was a blast, but it was also proof of something I feared: Milwaukee was irredeemably dorky. In the mid-1980s, the city was most famous for Laverne & Shirley, a reference still maddeningly brought up by everyone not from there. A friendly, safe place to grow up? Definitely. But cool it was not. At the time, I didn't understand a fundamental principle by which Milwaukeeans live. They feel their hometown is a wonderful place that, with a little effort, could get even better. I went to Milwaukee recently, accompanied by Sam and Stephanie, two high school friends who were my polka partners at Etzel's, and we were pleasantly surprised by the results of that can-do spirit. Take the Milwaukee Art Museum. I had always been put off by the severe modernism of the 1957 Eero Saarinen building. But I loved what was inside, especially a groovy walk-in conceptual art piece that simulated deep space. Putting a treasure like that in such a building seemed like storing a bouquet of roses in a filing cabinet. I later came to love modernism. Even as I changed, however, the museum changed, too. In 2001, Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava installed a 90-foot-high reception hall topped by movable louvers--in essence, a huge sunroof. And it gave the city a skyline icon--a mast-like spire with two wings that soar out over Lake Michigan. Constructing the enormously expensive building got the museum into financial troubles. To me, it felt like Milwaukee was finally reaching for the stars, which can mean overreaching a bit. Back in the day, overreaching mainly applied to portions of food. Quantity, not quality, was the culinary rule. My friend Diane and I used to joke about wearing out the treads in our shoes because we made so many trips to a favorite buffet. Certainly there were exceptions. My parents introduced me and my sister to morels and other fancy foods at Sanford's, back when restaurants like that were rare. Today Sanford's is in good company. In 1999, the chef/owner at Sanford's, Sandy D'Amato, opened Coquette Cafe, a wonderful bistro. Eating coq au vin with smoked bacon, I could just as easily have been in New York or Paris. Roots, which styles itself after the artisanal restaurants of California, is a terrific addition to the scene. One of the restaurant's partners grows organic produce on a 67-acre farm outside of town. The unusual dishes--grilled pigeon peas with a green chili and tomato confit--are a far cry from a fish fry. And now home chefs have all the artisanal ingredients they need, thanks to the new Milwaukee Public Market, with food from local farmers and purveyors. The food scene isn't the only thing being updated. A neighborhood called Avenues West is in the midst of a long-necessary revival. It has a glorious architectural past; the westernmost stretch of Wisconsin Avenue was a late-19th- century Milwaukee version of Millionaire's Row. Many of the mansions had been torn down, however, and for the past few decades, Avenues West didn't have much tourist appeal. One grand building that was spared is the Ambassador Hotel, an art deco beauty built in 1928. (In the 1950s, a relative of mine was married there.) As a bellboy cheerfully told me, the hotel had become downright "nasty," and last year, it emerged from a spiffy transformation. Stephanie and Sam, raised in the suburbs like I was, were skeptical when I told them about the Ambassador's location. But once they saw the restored marble floors and etched-glass sconces in the lobby, they were impressed. On our last day, we had a whole lot of plans. Unfortunately, Etzel's wasn't in the cards, because it has closed. But we were able to revisit another old favorite: Kopp's, a 1950s-style hamburger joint with top-notch frozen custards. The staff is earnest in that Milwaukee way ("I'm sorry, we sure don't have any more Butter Brickle"). Then we went to a Brewers game. I was ready to hate Miller Park, the new baseball stadium. I thought the domed glass-and-steel building would be a little too shiny. The concrete floors of the stadium positively gleamed, and there was corporate sponsorship everywhere. But Bob Uecker, famous for being jokingly clueless in Miller Lite commercials, was still doing the radio broadcast, and a mascot went down a long slide when the Brew Crew got a hit--just as we remembered. The Brewers won, and the organist even played a strain of "Roll Out the Barrel" to celebrate a hit. To three veteran polka fans, it sure felt like home. Lodging   Ambassador Hotel 2308 W. Wisconsin Ave., 414/342-8400, ambasshotel.com, from $99 Food   Coquette Cafe 316 N. Milwaukee St., 414/291-2655, coq au vin $17   Roots 1818 N. Hubbard St., 414/374-8480, pigeon pea appetizer $8   Kopp's 5373 N. Port Washington Rd., 414/961-3288, scoop $1.80 Activities   Milwaukee Art Museum 700 N. Art Museum Dr., 414/224-3220, $8   Miller Park 1 Brewers Way, 414/902-4400   Public Market 400 N. Water St., 414/336-1111

Trip Coach: April 4, 2006

Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Hi, thanks for joining me. I'm ready to answer your questions. _______________________ New York City, NY: What is the best cruise for senior single male? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Carnival to the Caribbean. Patrick D Webb CEO GalaxSea Cruises/CruiseStar.com Inc 3088 W Temple Ave Pomona CA 91766 800-662-5450 www.CruiseStar.com Email: Pat@CruiseStar.com Member ASTA, CLIA. California Certification 1012894-40 _______________________ Broken Arrow, OK: We are traveling in Europe in May and early June. We have been waiting for a last minute deal, preferably on the Golden Princess, for May 22. The offers at this time are still a bit pricy. Are there ways of pricing cruises even in late April for May dates? Thank you. Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Currently the Golden Princess is sold out for the May 22 sailing. You can check our live booking engine at our web site for any last minute deals. One that I think is a bargain is the Carnival Liberty out of Rome. Reduced rates on the air are running $649 to $899. Terrific bargain for Europe. _______________________ Bellmore, NY: Hi! We are a group of 10-12 with a Mediterranean cruise planned for October.We have included several pre cruise days in Istanbul, Turkey. We need to purchase travel insurance. We all paid our initial cruise deposit several months ago so we understand that there would now be a 90-180 day window on pre-existing medical conditions. What exactly does this mean? Does this mean that 90 days prior to purchasing insurance there could not be any new diagnosis of a problemthat could cause cancellation of your trip? If, for example, you have been taking medication to control blood pressure for years....but there has been no major change in the last 90 days...is that still considered "pre-existing"???? Also...who falls into this pre-existing condition? Does it only apply to the actual travelers or does it also carry over to any family members not traveling? Since we will be very far from home, medical and medical evacuation are very important. Is your medical insurance primary or secondary? How much medical and medical evacuation coverage do you recommend? Which policy do you suggest we purchase? We are ready to purchase and we are comparing Travelex to CSA Insurance. Travelex limits are higher and we are all familiar with the company. However, CSA waives this pre-existing window if the policy is purchased prior to final trip payment. That is a major concern at this time. Hope you can clear these matters up. Kindly, Karen & Martin, Myra & Charles Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: What you are refering to is the "look back window" that the insurance company will look at to see if your condition was stable "prior" to the period you mentioned. My experience has been that Travel Guard is the easiest to work with on this issue. If you want to call our office, one of our staff will work up a quote for you. _______________________ Dana Point, CA: I'm 51 years old, single and prefer to travel alone. There seems to be an extremely small number of single cabins available and, when booking a cruise, I do not want to sign up for a roommate. What is the best way to be informed of cruises that either have no single supplements or have single supplements less than 100% (and preferably 50% or less?) Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: In the mass market Carnival offers the best deal for singles. Book a category 1A and you will get a terrific rate. They only have a few of these staterooms on each ship, so it is best to book early. _______________________ Des Moines, IA: My husband and I have never been on a cruise because he is prone to motion sickness. He has gotten motion sicknes from snorkeling as well. Flying does not seem to be a problem. He has purchased one of those electronic wrist bands, but we are afraid to try a cruise, because if he can't tolerate it, it would be a miserable trip. Do you think there is any way to be sure that he could safely try cruising? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: I find that even the most "sensitive" do well on the new, large ships with this issue. Try a three day cruise from Florida or California and see how it goes. I don't think you will have a problem if you tolerate flying. _______________________ Pittsburgh, PA: I will be travelling with a tour on the Tran Siberian Railway thru Asia 9/6-9/29/2006 with a final stop in St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg is so close to Helsinki and Stockholm, I would like to book a short (4 or 5 day) Scandinavian cruise to hit the highlights of those cities. Is there anything out there? What are my options, if any? Thanks! Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Bergen Lines might work for you. They offer short segments. _______________________ Gainesville, FL: My wife and I were lucky enough to be invited with a group for a free 4 day Seabourn cruise leaving later this week from and returning to St Thomas, USVI. It stops in St Martin & Virgin Gorda. Can you recommend any must see or do activities for this brief itinerary? We're not looking for anything too adventurous, as relaxation is the focus of this mini-vacation. Thanks. Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Take a taxi to Orient Bay in St. Martin. Amazing! _______________________ Long Beach, CA: My husband, 3 year old son and I are going on a Cruise on Carnival in Nov. this year. I have planned our trips at each place the ship stops. How can I make sure we'll have the most possible fun we can when we're on the ship? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Depends on what your interests and expectations are. My experience is that the 3 year old will enjoy hanging around pool deck on the ship better than the excursions. Save your money and take him to the beach in Puerto Vallarta and Cabo. _______________________ Oakton, VA: We would like to visit the Galapagos but would like to leave any US East Coast port and cruise all the way to the Galapaos. Does anyone offer that? 2 passengers, mainly Fall and Spring. If you could suggest anything, that would be most welcome. Thank you - Carrie Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: I don't know of any cruise line that offers what you are asking for. _______________________ Ann Arbor, Michigan: Hi Pat. My wife (Patti!) and I are beginning to do the research & planning for a 1st time ever, probably 1 time only, family cruise: 11 people, all 50+, three 80+. We definitely want to cruise from CA RT to HI, this Fall. We want the cruise and island visits to be enjoyable, relaxing + memorable. PLUS Patti & I are footing the bill! From my search, so far, it looks like the the most likely prospect is 15 days aboard Holland America's 'Zaandam'. Any particular DO's or DON'Ts ? or cautions ?? Thanks, John Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Princess and Celebrity also offer a 14/15 night cruise frm the West Coast. Princess tends to sometime have better rates than Holland. My only advice is to book very early. These longer cruises tend to sell out very early. This is particularly a problem for a group since you will have different needs for staterooms. Balcony and Suites sell out first. Give us a call and our staff will work through the options for you. _______________________ LAX: I want to fly to the east coast & find the cheapest ship to sail to Europe. My final destination is Croatia, then we want to take a ship from Split to Dubrovnik. Then we want to take a ship back to the States from anywhere in Europe, inexpensively. Thank you, Betty Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Sorry...I don't know of any transatlantic cruises that will end in Croatia. If you want to call us, we will try to work out a possible itinerary for you. _______________________ Port Washington, NY: Pat- We are a group of active seniors and seasoned world travelers who seek delux style with reasonable prices. Currently, we are planning to take a cruise trip to Visit St. Petersberg and Moscow during late August or early Septmeber (to avoid crowded vacationers). What would you recommend in terms of timing, type of ships (local, European or American operators)? And types of itinerary (two weeks or less)? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: I would recommend that you stick with one of the major US based cruise lines like Princess or Holland America. However, these cruises tend to be pricy. The last ships usually visit St. Petersburg mid August. We do represent European cruise lines as well. BUT...the on board experience can be very different from your expectations. You need to talk to an expert on this before you proceed. _______________________ Healdsburg, CA: What is the best cruise line (quality, fun, stops & food) for a couple in their fifties (56 & 53...but very young attitudes) for going to Alaska? We would want to depart from SF, Seattle or Vancouver. What is recommended for extra things to do on the cruise (glacier helicopter ride, bear wathcing, etc.) and where do you get the best prices? Regards, Mike & Foxine Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: You might try either the Sun or Dawn Princess from Seattle. Excellent value. Good passenger mix. Stay away from the May and September departures. (Older passenger mix on these departures.) In my opinion the "must do" excursions would be the Mendenhal Glacier in Juneau and the White Pass Rail Road in Skagway. _______________________ San Jose, CA: Hi Pat. We recently booked a first time ever 7 day RCL Med trip for Oct 2006. Can you please give us some tips on buying and selecting excursions? What are the pros and cons of getting a good deal on purchasing the best value from the cruise line or from independent excursion tours? Also where can I search online for those independent excursion tours for the various ports we will be visiting? Thanks for your kind consideration. -Michael Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: If this is your first time to the Med, I would stick with the cruise line shore excursions. No surprises and you pretty much get what you pay for in this market. _______________________ Crestview, Florida: My husband and I are planning a trip with a couple with two children. We are trying to decide whether to take a cruise (not a Disney cruise) or fly. Would the cruise be better because there would possibly be more things for the kids to do? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: You did not mention how old the kids are, but I think the kids will enjoy the cruise more than a land based vacation. Both Carnival, NCL and Royal Caribbean offer excellent programs for kids on board. _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: I am very interested in booking a cruise to celebrate my 35th birthday on Sept. 13. I have never taken a cruise before, so I was wondering what is the difference between the different cruise lines and if it's better to take an interior or exterior cabin. What other things should a first-time cruiser know? I would like to take a 7 day cruise to Mexico with my boyfriend (romantic getaway, perhaps) and am flexible on the dates. Thank you! Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: I would recommend the Carnival Pride from Los Angeles. Carnival attracts a young crowd and the ship is both casual and fun. Call our office and one of our staff will be happy to set this up for you. _______________________ Washington, DC: I am trying to plan a dream trip to view the July 11, 2010 total solar eclipse on Easter Island (Rapa Nui), Peru. I have been told by other elipse chasers that there are already cruises and hotels booked for this time and area. I have scoured the web and not found any that are booking past '08 or maybe '09. In know that this is far in advance, but considering the small size and remoteness of the location, and the magnitude of the event, I'm afraid that the few ways to get there and stay there will be gone before I hear about them. Do you have any leads? Cruising would be a great way to go! Thanks! Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Frequently cruise lines will offer Eclipse Cruises. I don't know of any lines that have published schedules beyond mid 2007. _______________________ New York City, NY: What is the best cruise for a single? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Carnival to the Caribbean or Mexico. _______________________ St. Louis, MO: What do cruise lines consider when giving upgrades? Price paid? Past cruiser? or is it random? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: I am assuming you are asking about "free upgrades" vs the type you pay for? Usually the criteria for the freebe upgrades are 1) what you paid 2) past passenger status 3) the agent that you booked through. Some agents that do a lot of business with select lines can "request" upgrades. _______________________ Charlotte, NC: I will be going on Costa cruise lines next month. I've been on 'americanized' lines like Royal Caribbean before. Are there any differences I should expect in service and cost on board, etc.? -Chari Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: If you are taking Costa to the Caribbean the only difference you will find is that you will have more Europeans on board and usually more smokers. _______________________ Greensboro, GA: We will be in Greece from Aug 30 to Sept 13. We would like to do a cruise of the Greek Isles. The only line we can find that does this is Louis but the reviews are horrible. Are there any other suggestions? Is there anything that leaves from another port besides Greece that permits embarking at alternate ports? Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Unfortunately Louis is the only operator that can operate from Athens. (Greek shipping laws.) The only other option is to fly to Venice and originate your cruise to the Greek Isles from there. _______________________ Defiance, OH: When is the best time of the year to travel to Alaska? Also, what is the best way to see Alaska, cruise or land? We have never been there before and everyone says it's beautiful. Thank You, Ann Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: The answer to your question depends on what you feel "best" is. By "best"...are you looking for the best price? If so, try a cruise in early to mid May or late September. If "best" for you is weather, try late June. Most of the southern part of Alaska is only accessable by sea. There are no roads from the lower 48 to this part of the world. This makes an Inside Passage cruise really the only way to see this part of Alaska. _______________________ Cleveland OH: Are there any cruises that stop in Cuba? I have dual citizenship and could use my other passport to visit Cuba but I don't want to go directly there. A port call at Havana would suit me fine. Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: There are a few Europe based operators that have offered cruise to Cuba in the past. I understand that the Cuban government put a stop to these recently. _______________________ Pat Webb, Cruisestar.com: Thank you for all of your excellent questions. Have a great vacation!