Surprising Senegal

Sometimes you find travel's biggest bargains all but hidden right under your nose. I did when I belatedly discovered a few years ago that I could vacation cheaply in cozy cabins and lodges in several state parks not far from my home. Now I'm convinced they are America's best budget-priced rooms with a view. Since then, I've checked into park lodges in West Virginia, Kentucky, South Dakota, and Alabama, among others. But even I was surprised to learn that more than half the states-my unofficial count is 32-maintain similar accommodations for locals and visitors alike. I've always been a big fan of the country's famed national park lodges, such as Old Faithful Lodge at Yellowstone and Bright Angel Lodge at the Grand Canyon. But there aren't very many of them, and most are located in the West. For many of us, state park lodges and cabins are closer to home. Not only are they convenient-one reason I rank them as "best"-they occupy some of the prettiest places in the state. I live not far from ruggedly beautiful West Virginia, home to nine parks with inviting, well-maintained lodges. Five of the parks, boasting 18-hole golf courses, qualify as "resorts." Nineteen parks offer cabins that can house entire families. When I want to get away, I head for the 54-room Lodge at Blackwater Falls State Park. Its guest amenities-including a good restaurant-rival those of a national park lodge, and the views are almost as spectacular. Wrapped in dense woods, it clings to the edge of the deep canyon of the Blackwater River. In the summer, I go to hike, horseback ride, and swim in the nearby lake. In winter, I ski cross-country trails or soak in the heated indoor pool. The easy tab: just $80 a night for two in peak season. Neighboring Virginia maintains an impressive collection of state park cabins. My favorite park, because it seems so remote and wild, is 4,493-acre Douthat State Park set deep in the Allegheny Mountains. Outdoorsy families come here to fish, hike, canoe, and swim, staying in 32 fully equipped cabins tucked into shady woods. The easy tab: $76 a night for two or $455 for a week. State information offices can provide details on reserving park lodge rooms and cabins. To get you on your way, here are ten states offering some of the best park accommodations. (Listed are beginning rates for two people during the summer. Weekends may be slightly higher.) West Virginia Mountain Fun I'm a hiker, so Blackwater Falls State Park (54 lodge rooms, $80)-one of nine parks in West Virginia with lodges-keeps me returning. Mountain biking on old forest-service roads is also a big deal here. Elsewhere, check into Canaan Valley Resort State Park (250 rooms, $89) for golf. Greens fees are just $35 per person for 18 holes. Stonewall Resort (198 rooms, $109), located in Stonewall Jackson Lake State Park, the state's newest, features a full-service spa. Raft the New River from Pipestem Resort State Park (142 rooms, $77). Nineteen parks offer cabins. Info: 800/225-5982, wvstateparks.com. Alabama Historical Gems Like West Virginia, Alabama operates what it calls six "resort" state parks. Most have swimming pools; four boast 18-hole golf courses. When I visited, historical sightseeing was on my agenda. Near Lakepoint Resort State Park (101 rooms, $60), I sought out Tuskegee Institute National Historical Site, where in 1881 Booker T. Washington founded a school for rural African-Americans. I also toured Russell Cave National Monument, an archaeological site north of Lake Guntersville State Park (100 rooms, $62) where Native Americans camped more than 10,000 years ago. Eleven parks offer cabins. Info: 800/252-7275, dcnr.state.al.us. Virginia On the Lake Idyllic is an overused word, but it's the one that best describes three Virginia state parks where you can rent a cabin by a lake. Douthat (32 cabins, $76), as I said above, is my favorite. But two oddly named parks aren't far behind. Fairy Stone State Park (24 cabins, $68) is named for the little cross-shaped stones found in profusion there. High, forested hills ring Fairy Stone Lake like the protective walls of a castle. Hungry Mother State Park (20 cabins, $89), draped at the foot of mountain ridges, recalls a tragic legend of pioneer hardship. Ten parks offer cabins. Info: 800/933-7275, dcr.state.va.us. Kentucky Wild Water I was introduced to Kentucky's park lodges at Cumberland Falls State Resort Park's DuPont Lodge (52 rooms, $74), where-just steps from the lodge-you can splash down the Cumberland River for five miles on a wild water raft ($55). In all, Kentucky operates lodges in 17 parks, all of which provide a swimming pool, a lakeside beach, or both. Eight offer 18-hole golf courses, including Pine Mountain State Resort Park (30 rooms, $74), set atop a mountain overlooking Kentucky Ridge State Forest. Greens fees are a bargain: $25 weekdays/$30 weekends per person, including a cart. Sixteen parks offer cabins called "cottages." Info: 800/255-7275, kystateparks.com. Oregon By the Beach A yurt is a circular, domed tent, and there's no bathroom. So it really doesn't qualify as a cabin. But Oregon's yurts are the next best thing; also, they're cheap and most are beautifully situated on the beach. Spend a week yurt-hopping down the coast from Fort Stevens State Park (15 yurts) in the north to Harris Beach State Park (six yurts) in the south. Bring sleeping bags. Currently 180 yurts can be reserved in 19 state parks, 14 on the coast. They rent for $27 to $29 a night, sleeping up to five people. Each comes equipped with bunk beds for three, a pullout futon for two, a lockable wood door, electricity, heating, and a skylight. At many, hot showers are a few steps away. Info: 800/452-5687, oregonstateparks.org. South Dakota Great Plains South Dakota's premier park is Custer State Park, where the famed Black Hills rise out of the Great Plains. It offers 82 rooms in four lodges and 107 cabins. At the 68-room State Game Lodge, rates begin at $80. Three other parks also feature lodges. The state's best bargains are its log-style camping cabins (similar to yurts) located in 27 state parks. Sleeping four, they provide electricity but no private bathrooms. Rates are $32 to $37 a night. Lewis and Clark Recreation Area, which has 13 cabins, is a favorite of water skiers. Lodge info: 605/773-3391, state.sd.us. Camping cabins: 800/710-2267, campsd.com. Ohio Woodland Comforts Eight Ohio state parks maintain modern lodges with adjacent cabins called cottages. Rates begin at $75. Some parks have cheaper rates for yurts, tepees, and camping cabins. Among the resort parks, Burr Oak Resort (60 rooms/30 cottages, $75) sits atop a wooded hill overlooking Burr Oak Lake. Hardy guests hike the 22-mile trail circling the lake; most relax at the glass-enclosed pool. Info: 800/282-7275. Utah Red-Rock Spires Indulge me here. Only one Utah state park, Kodachrome Basin, provides cabins-and it has only six. But the park, set in the heart of red-rock canyon country, is so scenically spectacular and the modern cabins at $65 are such a bargain that I can't leave them out. Go for the views, horseback riding, and hiking. I like the Panorama Trail, an easy three-mile path that wanders among red-rock spires. Beautiful Bryce Canyon National Park is just down the road. Info: 435/679-8536, brycecanyoninn.com. Arkansas Island Adventure Arkansas operates four state park lodges, the largest of which-DeGray Lake Resort State Park (96 rooms, $83)-occupies a slender island on DeGray Lake. In the foothills of the Ouachita Mountains, the 13,800-acre lake is a water playground with sandy swimming beaches and a full-service marina. Join a park interpreter on a snorkeling trip or sunset cruise, or play 18 holes of golf. The island is linked to the mainland by a causeway. Eight of the state parks offer cabins. Info: 888/287-2757, arkansasstateparks.com. Indiana Misty Ridges At dawn, when misty clouds climb the forested ridges of Brown County State Park, you might think you were in the Great Smoky Mountains. The park's Abe Martin Lodge (84 rooms, $69), appropriately rustic in wood and stone, is one of seven park lodges in Indiana. Hiking and horseback riding draw the athletic. Arts lovers browse the crafts galleries of nearby Nashville, Indiana. Ten parks offer cabins. Lodge info: 877/563-4371, state.in.us. Cabins: 866/622-6746.

Two children skim stones across the still surface of a pond on their way to feed the calves in a red barn. Their parents rock quietly on a farmhouse porch, reading and listening to the children's laughter. It is the autumn of 2003 at a farm bed-and-breakfast in Vermont. For a very modest price, our model family is enjoying a priceless interlude together. To move from the fast pace of today's society to slower rhythms and country pleasures is like taking a step back in time. As evidenced by countless American Christmas cards, a cultural memory still exists of white steepled churches, snow-covered stone walls, and big, red barns. For many, the word Vermont evokes this image, which includes peaceful pastures with cows, colorful autumn trees, gentle green hills, and most of all, farms. To supplement their farming incomes, 18 Vermont farms are now offering farmstays, long popular in Europe. A great variety of accommodations and settings are available, at an average cost (double room) of about $45 per adult per day, including 9 percent tax and a delicious home-cooked breakfast. (Most charge $10 to $35 per child.) Travelers' costs are kept low not only because breakfast is included, but also because farms often offer microwave or barbecue possibilities for guests. If you do decide to go out to a restaurant, prices are exceptionally modest throughout Vermont. The outstanding feature of each farm B&B is the warm, hospitable farm family who will welcome you-they are what make this vacation truly unique. Motels don't offer you hugs and homemade maple syrup! These hosts have been farming for many years, though maybe running a B&B for only a few. You will leave with a glimpse of a way of life linked to our heritage and insight into the lives of those who produce our food and milk. A sampling of Vermont's farm stays The average farm in the five we've listed has more than 200 acres and a history of well over a hundred years. Many have been in the same family for generations. The farmhouses were built in the 1800s but are charming, comfortable, and with modern conveniences. The big dairy barns range from a unique three-story round barn to a picturesque red one built in 1787. Many different kinds of farms welcome guests, from dairy farms to vegetable or fruit farms to those raising llamas or sheep. Even among the five farms mentioned below there are many differences in accommodations. At Marge's B&B, the farm couple lives next door and the other entire house is for guests, including the kitchen, which is well stocked with breakfast foods for guests to fix their own. Liberty Hill includes in its higher price a sumptuous dinner, which was written up in Gourmet magazine! Most offer a big, home-cooked breakfast with bacon and syrup from their own farms. All are authentic working farms, not just farmhouses on former farms. Each is unique, there being no such thing as chain "farm hotels" in Vermont! At Hollister Hill Farm, each room has either a working fireplace or a sauna, as well as a private bath. At others, guests share a bathroom. Most have around three rooms, while some are larger or smaller. Some have a suite or apartment. Couture's is on a paved road, while Marge's is four miles down a country lane. At Liberty Hill you eat with the farm family, and at others you are served with other B&B guests, which offers an opportunity to meet interesting people, sometimes from as far away as Australia, Germany, or South Africa! The important thing is for travelers to inquire carefully about the particular setup to find the farm that suits them best. Your average day Every Vermont farm B&B is within easy reach of restaurants for lunch or dinner, as well as many local attractions and activities. In summer and fall there are festivals, fairs, concerts, and craft shows. There are museums, art shows, and a Ben & Jerry's factory! Hiking, canoeing, and biking opportunities abound. Antiques shops are hidden along the back roads. In winter there are all the outdoor sports, as well as sleigh rides. Many guests never leave the farm during their stay, taking advantage of activities right there, from feeding the animals to hayrides, helping milk the cows, swimming, fishing, snowshoeing, sledding, or cross-country skiing. Sometimes just a walk along a quiet country road is all one seeks. Watching the stars or sitting around a bonfire are among the evening possibilities. Many farms boil maple syrup from their own trees, a fascinating process to watch. (Couture's has its own shop on-site and does a big mail-order business in syrup; see box.) For rainy days there are board and card games, puzzles, or reading. Best of all, these fun activities don't cost a thing! (Note: TVs usually are not in rooms but available in the common living areas. Think of this as an escape from our crazy world!) The vital details You probably have questions: When is the best time to come to Vermont? These farms are generally open all year and busiest from mid-June until the end of October. Spring is when the maple syrup is being tapped and boiled (but late March and April can be dreary). May is lovely, with dandelions blooming in the meadows. Winter has its own special beauties. Most (but not all) B&Bs prefer you stay at least two nights, and to get any feel for farm life you need at least that long. Many people stay three to 10 days. Always reserve ahead of time. What about transportation? You'll need a car. If you plan to fly, Burlington, Vermont, and Manchester, New Hampshire, are the closest airports, although some people fly into Boston, Albany, Hartford, or Montreal and rent a car there. Vermont also has limited bus and train service. What special things do you need to bring? An old pair of boots or sneakers that you don't mind getting muddy is a good idea. Dress comfortably and casually, for the season (layers in winter). Most of all, bring an open attitude and come eager to reach out to new people and experiences. As someone said, "Vermont is America with the volume turned down." How do you learn more? Specific addresses and other information about farmstays in Vermont can be found at vtfarms.org or by calling 802/767-3926; some of the farms have their own individual Web sites. For general information about Vermont, go to vtliving.com and 1-800-vermont.com. five of Vermont's 18 Farm B&Bs

Having lived in Hawaii, I know how painful the price of paradise can be. Even for kama'aina (long-term residents), who enjoy 10 to 50 percent off on many goods and services, the island of Oahu is not cheap to enjoy. A generic Waikiki luau is $49, tickets to The Polynesian Cultural Center can be a whopping $54 per person, and the once-free snorkeling spot of Hanauma Bay now charges $3! To save you some dough, I'll divulge these 20 bargain secrets (over half of them free), so your next vacation to the Aloha State is happily affordable. 1. Bond with the band Over 160 years old (it's gone through a few musicians, mind you), the Royal Hawaiian Band (808/527-5666, royalhawaiianband.com) is one of the last links to Hawaii's royalty, commissioned by King Kamehameha III in 1836. Catch the band for absolutely no charge at the scenic 'Iolani Palace Bandstand (in front of the former royal residence) every Friday at noon, and at the Kapi'olani Bandstand in Kapi'olani Park every Sunday at 2 p.m. Stand up and hula along if you must. 2. Lyon in the tropics Green thumbs will go gaga at the Lyon Arboretum (808/988-0456, hawaii.edu/lyonarboretum), a research center tucked back in the moist, verdant Manoa Valley, just ten minutes' drive from Waikiki. Hundreds of species of exotic tropical and Hawaii-specific plants are on display to the public for a suggested donation of $2.50, with guided tours included on Tuesdays at 10 a.m. and Saturdays at 1 p.m. Be sure to check out the nearby hiking trail to the dream-like Manoa Falls while you're there. 3. Walking Waikiki's past Learn about Waikiki's history with free guided walking tours offered by the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association. The two-hour Queen's Tour takes you around Kapi'olani Park and Queen's Beach, while the Kalia Tour traces the origins of Waikiki, and the home of Olympian swimmer and surfer Duke Kahanamoku. Each tour is at 9 a.m., Monday through Saturday. Info: 808/841-6442 or waikikihistorictrail.com. 4. Free Hollywood movies, Hawaiian-style If you've never watched a movie outdoors in the warm tropical breeze with gentle waves lapping in the background, here's your chance: Every Saturday and Sunday afternoon and evening "Sunset on the Beach" happens near the Kapahulu Pier in Waikiki. Food booths serve local island treats for under $10, musicians croon Hawaiian melodies, and then a 30-foot screen plays free Hollywood films, with Diamond Head looming in the background. Who could ask for more? Info: 808/523-2489. 5. A fishy auction The Kewalo Basin, a harbor built in the 1920s between the Honolulu Airport and Waikiki, is the site of The Honolulu Fish Auction every day at 5 a.m. (don't worry, with the time change you'll be waking up early anyway!). Grab your cup o' java and head to the boats hauling out their fresh catch of local fish like mahimahi, ono, and opah. The colorful dickering, often in local pidgin English, is well worth the early-morning effort. 6. Towering Aloha A Honolulu icon, the Aloha Tower has been greeting guests arriving on cruise ships since 1926. For some of the best views of the city, hop aboard its creaky elevator to the top of the 184-foot structure, all for free. It adjoins the pleasant Aloha Tower Marketplace mall and is open all year long from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. 7. Pray in Hawaiian The New England-style Kawaiahao Church is Honolulu's oldest. Built in the 1800s out of 14,000 hand-quarried coral slabs, it served as the church of the Hawaiian royalty (King Lunalilo has his own impressive mausoleum in the back). The church offers soul-stirring services in Hawaiian and English every Sunday at 10:30 a.m., with songs sung in Hawaiian by a renowned choir (957 Punchbowl St., 808/522-1333). 8. Learn to live life like a Hawaiian Be sure never to pay for hula, ukulele, or lei-making lessons in Waikiki: The Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center (2201 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-0588) offers all for free! It's located right behind the Royal Hawaiian Hotel in the heart of Waikiki. Hula lessons are Mondays and Fridays at 10 a.m. (Ilima Court, third floor); ukulele lessons are Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 11:30 a.m. (Hibiscus Court, first floor); lei-making lessons are Mondays and Wednesdays at 11 a.m. (Orchid Court, third floor). 9. Lei it on, for a song Honolulu's Chinatown is the real thing, with noodle shops, herbalists, and storefronts looking like they haven't had a makeover for a century or so. Amid all the color is Maunakea Street, which could be called Lei Lane with its rows of flower shops and elderly ladies stringing garlands in open doorways. What would be a $20 lei at the airport will only cost you a few bucks here. Call Cindy's Lei Shoppe (1034 Maunakea St., 808/536-6538), and they can even deliver leis costing as little as $4 right to your curbside car door (since parking is tight in Chinatown). 10. Learn more than you ever wanted to know about pineapples The Dole Plantation, in the rich red earth of Wahiawa in Central Oahu, is a fun, free-of-charge destination. Begun as a roadside stand in 1950, the large center has history displays, gift shops, free samples, demonstrations on how to properly cut pineapples-even a $5 pineapple maze (the largest in the world according to Guinness) and a $7.50, two-mile train ride through the plantation. Info: 808/621-8408, dole-plantation.com. 11. Discover a princess Most guests at the classy Sheraton Princess Ka'iulani (120 Ka'iulani Ave., 808/922-5811) in Waikiki don't realize that the hotel is built on the former Ainahau Estate where the young princess lived. For no charge, you can partake in a guided tour of the grounds and historical rooms Monday through Friday at 4 p.m. Included is a reading of the poem "Island Rose," which Robert Louis Stevenson penned for Ka'iulani. 12. Free fish gazing Built in 1904 and holding four impressive galleries of tanks, the Waikiki Aquarium (808/923-9741) is a steal at $7 a ticket, but there are two other lesser known but free aquariums in Waikiki as well. One, The Tube, at the DFS Galleria Waikiki shopping mall (330 Royal Hawaiian Ave., 808/931-2655), is a 65,000-gallon, two-story saltwater aquarium you can actually stroll through. The second is the Oceanarium Restaurant at the Pacific Beach Hotel (2490 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-1233), a three-story, 280,000-gallon saltwater tank, also free. 13. Shave off the heat Probably the most famous yet humble shave-ice (known to you mainlanders as "snow cone") store in the world, Matsumoto's (66-087 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4827, matsumotoshaveice.com) near the North Shore town of Haleiwa offers this local delicacy starting at only $1.20 per cone, and that includes a dollop of ice cream as well (with red beans, an Asian favorite, it's 60 cents more). 14. Budget bus blast One of the best-kept secrets on Oahu is the public bus ride around the entire island of Oahu for $2! The route is over 150 miles, and bus tours run by big outfits will charge you over $50 for the same pleasure. The benefit of riding "The Bus" (as it's known) is that you can get off and on at different beaches or towns for up to two hours without incurring a second fare -- it's a treat to escape the cement of Waikiki and discover the lush island's more remote shores. Take Circle Island Bus 52 or 55 from the Ala Moana Shopping Center. Info: 808/848-5555, thebus.org. 15. Tea for three (dollars) The Urusenke Teahouse in Waikiki (reservations: 808/923-3059) is a soothing, authentic Japanese teahouse that presents a full-fledged ancient tea ceremony on Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 10 a.m., for a small donation of three dollars. You sip tea made from 400-year-old bushes in a reverent setting (long pants and socks required) and soak up the Zen atmosphere away from Waikiki's bustle. 16. Pig out, local style Irifune (563 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-1141) is usually full of locals in the know. Snapshots of friends and Kabuki masks cover the walls, fishing nets and glow-in-the-dark stars hang above diners, and there's a TV fish tank in the bathroom. Huge Japanese meals with all the trimmings go for under $10. 17. Aloha art With over 35,000 Asian, Western, and Pacific works, The Honolulu Academy of Art (900 S. Beretania St., 808/532-8700, honoluluacademy.org) is well worth relinquishing a day at the beach for. The admission is only $7, but you can avoid that by arriving on the first Wednesday of each month when it's free. Included are the James A. Michener Collection of Japanese prints, and royal feather capes and tapa hangings. 18. Palacial yesteryear Queen Emma's Summer Palace (808/595-6291, daughtersofhawaii.org), along the Pali Highway in dramatic Nu'uanu Valley, is just five minutes from the center of Honolulu. For $5 you can witness how the royalty lived in this mansion with its rich koa-wood furniture, and sumptuous grounds where the queen entertained. 19. Polo in paradise Yes, Oahu has it all-even polo grounds. Prince Charles himself has played at the Waimanalo Polo Grounds, located on the island's windward coast near Waimanalo town at the base of the spectacularly ridged Ko'olau Mountains. For $3, you can take in a real polo game every Sunday at 2:30 p.m. (practice games Wednesdays and Fridays at 4:30 p.m.) from April to October, with plenty of shade, a snack bar, and the kids get to pet the resident ponies as well. Info: 808/947-6511, honolulupolo.com. 20. Ascend Diamond Head Once free, the popular hike to the top of Diamond Head now costs $1, but it's still one of the best deals on the island. You park inside of the actual crater (called Le'ahi and the site of human sacrifices on its western slope) and ascend about a mile of trail, ducking through tunnels, ramparts, and up steps built during World War II. You're rewarded with certainly the best view of Waikiki available anywhere. 21. Shrimp surprise When traveling on the North Shore, stop by Giovanni's Shrimp Truck. Its heaping plates of locally harvested shrimp go slightly beyond our budget ($11) but are worth the splurge, especially with its infamous Hot & Spicy sauce ("hot as our volcanic lava") that's also sold separately for $5 a bottle. Decorated with comments handwritten by loyal customers, the truck is along the Kamehameha Highway near the town of Kahuku. Info: 888/923-9494.

It was Philadelphia's most famous son, Benjamin Franklin, who coined the two quotes that are particularly relevant to budget travelers: "A penny saved is a penny earned," and "Fish and visitors smell after three days." So you would think that the City of Brotherly Love, a place that is already overflowing with tributes to the great man, would also be chock-full of budget lodgings, sparing visitors the indignity of having to shell out at least a week's salary on a hotel stay. Instead, they are few and far between, and their numbers are dwindling (one well-respected budget inn near Rittenhouse Square, the Abigail Corby Carriage House, recently shut its doors for good). This is especially puzzling when you consider the larger number of budget hotels available in far more expensive cities (New York, for example, a two-hour ride away). Be that as it may, we've come up with a range of cozy and charming independent inns that offer rooms for under one Benjamin (he's the face on the $100 bill) a night. For more options, a few chain hotels such as Rodeway Inn (1208 Walnut St., 215/546-7000, rodewayinn.com) and Comfort Inn (100 N. Christopher Columbus Blvd., 215/627-7900, comfortinn.com) also have rooms under $100. Most properties listed below are in the Center City district, where sites such as Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, and the National Constitution Center are located, with the odd lodging in the University City district (home to Drexel University and U. Penn). Rates quoted do not include taxes of 14 percent. Alexander Inn 301 S. 12th St., 877/253-9466, alexanderinn.com; 48 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $99. In a historic building one block from Philadelphia's Antique Row district, the Alexander Inn is an all-around favorite among the city's budget hotels, with a friendly, helpful staff. Its warm, inviting lobby and bar (where a complimentary continental breakfast is served) is decorated in a style intended to evoke "the great cruise ships of the '30s" (check out the caf,-society frieze above the bar!). All of the Alexander Inn's 48 rooms are furnished in a modern-chic motif, and they have multichannel Direct TV and telephones with modem ports. The rooms are clean and come with mini-toiletries, fluffy towels, hairdryers, irons, and ironing boards, although the single rooms-and the bathrooms within-can be on the cramped side. A gym and a business center are available. La Reserve-Center City Bed & Breakfast 1804 Pine St., 800/354-8401, centercitybed.com; seven rooms, most with shared bathrooms, from $85. A few blocks south of Rittenhouse Square, near the Antique Row district, this 153-year-old town house is a favorite among European visitors, particularly musicians who like to play the Steinway concert piano in the Victorian-style parlor. The self-proclaimed Grande Dame of Philadelphia's B&Bs has nineteenth-century-style rooms (and relatively large ones at that, for a budget hotel), and breakfast is served in a chandeliered dining room. For a higher price, there are two large suites with private baths available. As with many other inns that trade on old-fashioned charm, a warning about navigating the staircase applies. Thomas Bond House 129 S. 2nd St., 800/845-2663, winston-salem-inn.com/philadelphia; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95. A brick house located within Independence National Historical Park, the elegant Thomas Bond House features rooms furnished in the Federal style. Guests are served a complimentary continental breakfast featuring fresh fruit and muffins (or a full breakfast on the weekends), as well as evening wine and cheese. Coffee, tea, and soda are available throughout the day, and local phone calls are free. All rooms overlook the Welcome Park section of the national park (site of William Penn's house) and have cable TV, hairdryers, radio alarm clocks, and individual heating/air-conditioning units. The only drawbacks are the property's policy toward children (over 10, preferably) and the fact there are no ground-floor rooms in a building that only has stairs. The cheapest rooms are on the third floor. Shippen Way Inn 418 Bainbridge St., 800/245-4873; nine rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95 If you're hankering for Ye Olde Colonial Hospitality, step right this way. Innkeepers Ann Foringer and Raymond Rhule run their charming (if somewhat cramped) establishment one block off South Street, in an eighteenth-century house seemingly plucked from the country and deposited smack-dab in the big city (only a few blocks from Independence Hall). Distinguishing features include a walled colonial herb garden where breakfast is served in fair weather. The hosts not only serve complimentary breakfast (featuring fresh fruit and home-baked breads and muffins) but also afternoon tea or wine and cheese. In the winter, there's a working fireplace in the living room. Rooms are furnished in variations on the colonial theme; the smallest features original timbered walls, while the largest overlooks the herb garden and has an antique four-poster bed. The only drawbacks are a discouraging policy toward children (they are accepted "at innkeepers' discretion due to space limitations"; inquire ahead) and the narrow, spiral staircase leading to some rooms. The Gables 4520 Chester Ave., 215/662-1918, gablesbb.com; 10 rooms, 8 with private bathrooms, from $85 One of the more affordable options in the University City district, this is an ideal choice for those visitors who want to stay in a quiet neighborhood yet desire easy access to the big city; there's a trolley stop across the street. The Gables has been cited as a prime example of Queen Anne Victorian architecture-it won a preservation award from the local historical society-but it doesn't scrimp on modern-day conveniences: Cable TV, private phones with answering machines, phone jacks for Web access, and DSL availability are in all rooms. A complimentary full breakfast featuring eggs, fresh fruit, and homemade muffins is served, and your hosts include Tobe the poodle (innkeepers Don Caskey and Warren Cederholm claim poodles are hypoallergenic). Given its location, the Gables is favored by visiting relatives of college students, so book well in advance. No smoking is permitted. Society Hill Hotel 301 Chestnut St., 215/925-1919, societyhillhotel.com; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $75 The Society Hill Hotel recalls the early nineteenth century, when it was a boardinghouse for longshoremen. The guest rooms are somewhat tiny (no wonder they call it Philadelphia's Smallest Hotel) but they have brass beds, and a complimentary continental breakfast is delivered to your door. The hotel is across the street from Independence National Historical Park (and should not be confused with the similarly named-but higher priced-Sheraton nearby). Check-in is located at the bar in the popular ground-floor restaurant, which prides itself on having the best cheese steaks in Philadelphia (according to the Wall Street Journal). As with the Shippen Way, however, Society Hill's quaint charms also include a narrow staircase, and no elevator.