Texas Barbecue

By Daniel Vaughn
May 16, 2011
food 2
Darren Carroll
Leave that sweet barbecue sauce to the other guys. In Texas, it's all about the beef, the smoke, the rub—and nothing else.

Texans have never been accused of being modest, but singing the praises of the state's barbecue is boasting that's warranted. Unlike the pork belt of the Carolinas and the Deep South, Texas is all about beef, specifically smoked brisket. Near Austin, little has changed since the days more than a century ago when Czech and German butchers began using hickory, mesquite, and oak to smoke leftover cuts of meat. To visit the temples of Texas barbecue, you'll have to hit the road and travel to the sleepy ranch communities and small farming towns of hilly central Texas.
­—Daniel Vaughn, Full Custom Gospel BBQ blog (fullcustomgospelbbq.com)

Franklin Barbecue
If you're looking for a Texas barbecue tutorial, make this urban Austin joint your first stop. Aaron Franklin got his start in a vintage trailer—complete with garden gnome—and moved into his current location this year. He'll school you in the relative merits of brisket (fatty or lean?), pulled pork, and even how to make sausage with beef heart. 900 E. 11th St., Austin, 512/653-1187, franklinbarbecue.com, brisket $13/lb.

Smitty's Market
Once upon a time, the knives at Smitty's were chained to the tables as communal cutlery. Those days are gone, but the market still fancies itself a shrine to the state's culinary history. Beef shoulder clod has fallen from popularity in most spots, in favor of brisket, but here the cut comes beautifully marbled and moist. 208 S. Commerce St., Lockhart, 512/398-9344, smittysmarket.com, shoulder clod $10/lb.

Cele Store
Cele Store is only open for dinner on Fridays—football night!—and you need reservations, but this place is far from exclusive. Housed in an 1890s saloon, Cele feels like a honky-tonk. Choose from ribs, brisket, and smoky sausage (or all three). It all comes piled high with pickles and cheddar cheese. 18726 Cameron Rd., Manor, 512/869-9340, celestore.com, 3 meats $9.50 per person.

Louie Mueller Barbecue
You'll wait in line here, and there's not much to look at aside from the smoke-darkened ceiling and the wall of soot-covered business cards. Well, there is the James Beard Award, awarded in 2006. We're sure the massive, Flintstone-worthy beef ribs, coated in a simple salt and cracked black pepper rub, had something to do with it. 206 W. 2nd St., Taylor, 512/352-6206, louiemuellerbarbecue.com, beef ribs $13/lb.

City Market
The beef with most Texas barbecue joints is that the sauce usually gets second billing. At City Market, however, the spicy, mustard-based concoction ups the ante; slather it on brisket for that extra kick. 633 E. Davis St., Luling, 830/875-9019, brisket $9/lb.

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Louisiana Cajun Cooking

If you're looking for a life-altering culinary experience created by a made-for-TV celebrity chef, it's easy to find a lovely restaurant in New Orleans that will do the trick. What's harder is to locate an authentic Cajun meal served without all the food-mecca fanfare. Like all regional cuisine, Acadian food has a humble side, which is what you get when you toss fresh crawfish, crabs, and the occasional turtle into the pot. In the most traditional spots in and around New Orleans, eating is both a cause for celebration and a centuries-old way of life. ­—Peter Thriffiley Jr. and Rene A. Louapre IV, Blackened Out blog (blackenedout.com) CochonThe essentials of Acadian home cooking are all on the menu at chef Donald Link's Cochon, but they tend to speak with some unusual accents. Classic Cajun hog head cheese, for example, might come served alongside seasonally appropriate produce like beets, citrus, and tarragon, while crispy pig ears show up in a fresh arugula salad, dressed with pickled squash and charred cayenne dressing. Vegetarians and light eaters, take note: Animal fat turns up in nearly every dish on the menu, including the lard in the house-baked bread and stone-ground grits flavored with what seems to be several cows' worth of cream. 930 Tchoupitoulas St., New Orleans, 504/588-2123, cochonrestaurant.com, crispy pig ear salad $10. Mahony's Po-Boy ShopYou can find New Orleans's classic sandwich, the po'boy, in just about every neighborhood haunt, but Ben Wicks thought it deserved better. At Mahony's Po-Boy Shop, located in a small, blue house on Magazine Street, Wicks creates sandwiches as if they were royalty sitting on a throne of crusty yet cottony New Orleans–style French bread. Toppings include grilled jumbo shrimp with fried green tomatoes and tangy rémoulade, root-beer-glazed Chisesi's ham and cheese, and deep-fried chicken livers with Creole slaw. 3454 Magazine St., New Orleans, 504/899-3374, mahonyspoboys.com, po'boys from $6. Abita Brew PubThe Sazerac is the official cocktail of New Orleans, but the unofficial beverage of Cajun Country might well be Abita beer. This craft brewery in the tiny outpost of Abita Springs now produces more than 100,000 barrels of beer annually, in brews including golden, bock, light, and even Strawberry Harvest Lager—a wheat beer flavored with fresh berries grown less than 30 miles away in Ponchatoula. For the full-on Abita experience, take a leisurely bike ride along the historic Tammany Trace, stop in the tasting room, and then make your way to the nearby Abita Brew Pub, which serves up classic muffuletta sandwiches, rosemary BBQ crab claws, and spicy crawfish pasta. And unlike most breweries, Abita also makes a wickedly tasty root beer, flavored with pure Louisiana cane sugar, vanilla, and yucca for extra foam.  72011 Holly St., Abita Springs, 985/892-5837, abita.com, beer from $4. Spahr's SeafoodIn 1968 Bill Spahr built a filling station along Highway 90 in the tiny fishing village of Des Allemands. Over the years, his homemade "catfish chips" became a bigger draw than the gas, so he decided to turn off the pumps and convert the space into Spahr's Seafood. The waitresses still wear gas-attendant uniforms, and though Spahr retired from the daily operation years ago, he still makes the seafood gumbo every week from his personal recipe. 3682 Hwy. 90 E., Des Allemands, 985/758-1602, spahrsseafood.com, cup of seafood gumbo $5. Middendorf's Seafood RestaurantWhen they say that the catch is fresh at Middendorf's Seafood Restaurant, they're not kidding. Every last catfish, shrimp, and oyster comes from area farms or fishermen, some of it even from brackish Lake Maurepas, not far from the restaurant's front door. Middendorf's has been in business for 76 years, and its signature dish is fried catfish cut so thin, it crunches like a potato chip. The sky-high platters of crispy fried oysters and shrimp are also popular, but don't overlook the broiled seafood, especially the flounder filled with a huge ball of crabmeat stuffing and basted with melted butter. 30160 Hwy. 51 S., Akers, 985/386-6666, middendorfsrestaurant.com, catfish $11.50. Nobile's Restaurant & BarAs the Mississippi River snakes toward the north, its banks are flush with rural communities serving both as navigational markers and ports for cargo. Nobile's restaurant is a holdover from the town of Lutcher's heyday as a thriving logging community. The well-worn 1895 clapboard building houses a restaurant and an antiques shop. You'll find standard (and delicious) oyster po'boys here, but don't miss the crawfish pies and shrimp-and-crab sauce, served on fried fish, pasta, and even baked potatoes. 2082 W. Main St., Lutcher, 225/869-8900, nobilesrestaurant.com, crawfish pies $8.

12 Best-Ever Affordable Memorial Day Trips

You need a break this Memorial Day Weekend! To point you in the right direction, we looked for celebrations across America that offered something special in honor of the Memorial Day holiday, be it a unique patriotic tribute, a celeb-worthy pool party, an epic jazz festival, or a vineyard tour. But reading about a party that's taking place miles and miles from home is frustrating, not fun. That's why we highlighted places that are easily accessible no matter where you are in the U.S. (all of the cities called out under "easy getaway" are within either a 1.5-hour flight or four-hour drive from the featured destination). Consider this your ultimate guide to three-day weekend bliss. Palm Springs, Calif.: For guaranteed summer weather While most beach seasons are just beginning, Memorial Day marks the end of bearable temps in the desert, so hotels and operators are running specials for the holiday. Though other parts of California will be in the midst of "May Gray" and "June Gloom," Palm Springs still has nonstop sunshine—plus dozens of vintage shops, acclaimed restaurants such as Copley's on Palm Canyon (where celebrity chef Andrew Copley whips up So Cal comfort food like lobster pot pie) and an enduring love for all things mid-century (its hotels and private homes offer some of the best examples of 1950s modern architecture in the country). It also makes a great base camp for exploring the striking desert landscape of Joshua Tree National Park through hikes, mountain biking, or rock climbing—don't miss a scenic ride on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, one of Budget Travel's most beautiful cable car rides. Stick around for the Flower Drop & Air Fair on May 30th, hosted by the Palm Springs Air Museum, where more than 3,000 red and white carnations are dropped form a B-25 Mitchell bomber in honor of all who those who have given their lives for our freedom—visitors are invited to take flowers home following the 1 p.m. drop. Military members should check out the Tribute to Heroes R&R package from the South Coast Winery Resort & Spa that includes overnight accommodations, mimosa breakfast for two, a wine tasting for two, and other perks (from $199 a night for Sunday thru Thursday stays; from $299 a night for Friday and Saturday stays; call 866-994-6379 to book and mention the R&R Package). EASY GETAWAY FROM Los Angeles; San Francisco; Phoenix; Las Vegas. Washington, D.C.: For patriotism, pomp, and circumstance As you might guess, Washington D.C. is the most patriotic place to celebrate the holiday, with a parade and plenty of pomp and circumstance taking place during special military ceremonies. Arlington National Cemetery—which celebrated its 150th anniversary in May 2014—hosts a wreath-laying ceremony at 11 a.m. on Memorial Day at the Tomb of the Unknowns accompanied by performances from the U.S. Navy Band. Men and women in uniform also march in the National Memorial Day Parade along the National Mall Monday at 2 p.m. Don't miss the National Memorial Day Concert Sunday, May 29, on the West Lawn of the U.S. Capitol from 8 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., an event that is free to the public (gates open at 5 p.m.) and televised on PBS each year. EASY GETAWAY FROM Baltimore; Boston; Charleston, S.C.; Columbus, Ohio; Hartford, CT; Louisville, Ky.; Nashville; New York City; Providence. Las Vegas: For only-in-Las-Vegas-style parties by the pool Memorial Day weekend in Las Vegas is one of the busiest times of the year, along with New Year's Eve. Parties held around the resorts' elaborate pools are the big event, and become daylight nightclubs with DJs, drink carts, bottle service, cabanas, and more. To get in on the action, grab a chaise at the Venus Pool Club at Caesars Palace (guests always get in free, while admission is $25 if you're not staying at the hotel) or stop by the swanky Tropicana Pool at The Tropicana Las Vegas—admission is free for hotel guests, $20 for non-guests and $10 for locals, so don't miss out! Feeling gutsy? Take a spin on The High Roller at Caesars Palace, a giant Ferris wheel similar to The London Eye, sure to give you the best views in Vegas (daytime tickets from $23 per person; nighttime tickets from $36.95 per person). EASY GETAWAY FROM Los Angeles; San Francisco. SEE PHOTOS OF THE PLACES! Saint Louis: For the ultimate treasure hunt Don't miss the largest flea market in the Midwest, Gypsy Caravan, an annual Memorial Day event organized for the 44th year by the St. Louis Symphony Volunteer Association. General admission between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. is $10; Early Bird tickets for early access to sales between 7 a.m. and 9 a.m. are $20; Early Bird tickets for early access to sales between 7 a.m. and 9 a.m. are $20. EASY GETAWAY FROM Chicago; Cincinnati; Kansas City, MO.; Memphis. The Jersey Shore: For family fun and rides along the iconic Boardwalk Contrary to popular belief, Atlantic City was not hit hard by Hurricane Sandy back in 2012 and was actually back on its feet within a week of the storm—in fact the area still continues to bounce back post-Sandy with new openings and events along its iconic stretch of New Jersey coastline. Steel Pier, Atlantic City's popular oceanside amusement park, debuted eight new rides in 2013. Outside Atlantic City, check out the 31st annual Wildwoods International Kite Festival, the largest in North America, Friday thru Monday, an event that starts Friday at noon with the "Unlocking of the Ocean" media event. There's a lot going on in The Wildwoods this Memorial Day Weekend, including a Boardwalk Craft Show Saturday and Sunday, and a free concert on Sunday.  EASY GETAWAY FROM Philadelphia; New York City; Baltimore; Washington D.C. Austin: For boating season and outdoor fun Head to Lake Travis to soak up some of Austin's best weather of the year, with plenty of sunshine and temperatures in the eighties. Memorial Day kicks off boating season here, so the place to be is the lake. To get in on the action, check out Austin's REI store's schedule of events to find out what classes and events are on offer this weekend or rent a ski boat at Just for Fun (from $75 for one hour). If you'd rather be a spectator, catch a glimpse of the Capital of Texas Triathlon on Memorial Day, an event founded in 1991 that brings in 3,000 participants annually. Things get started with a swim at Lady Bird Lake before athletes break out the bikes for a race through Austin, leading up to a foot race around the southern part of the lake. EASY GETAWAY FROM Atlanta; Dallas. Charleston, S.C.: For high art with Southern hospitality One of the earliest observances of Memorial Day was by a group of freed slaves and took place weeks after the Civil War ended in 1865 in Charleston's Hampton Park. Today, the world-renowned Spoleto Festival starts its two-week run this weekend—this year from May 27th thru June 12th—filling the historic city's theaters, churches, and outdoor spaces with opera, theater, jazz, symphonies, choruses, and visual arts. Highlights this year include performances by the Westminster Choir, Brandi Carlile, and Jason Moran, and productions of Porgy and Bess and The Importance of Being Earnest among other events. Tickets can be purchased on a per-event basis, with prices ranging from $10 to $130. EASY GETAWAY FROM Atlanta; Charlotte, N.C.; Miami; Washington, D.C. Columbia Gorge, Ore.: For wine tasting along the river Over Memorial Day weekend, more than 30 wineries and tasting rooms in the scenic Columbia Gorge area of Oregon, which borders Washington State to the north, will be holding open houses featuring such events as barrel tastings and special releases. Maryhill Winery (on the Washington side) toasts its 15th anniversary with free live music, tasting specials, and major discounts on cases and wine purchases. Outdoors, there are tournament-quality bocce ball courts, an amphitheater, and a vine-covered arbor terrace, all with sweeping views of Mt. Hood and the Columbia River Gorge. EASY GETAWAY FROM Portland, Ore.; Seattle; San Francisco. Denver, Colo.: For fine art and music in the 'Mile High City' Fine art and pop culture descend on the Rockies over Memorial Day weekend. The Downtown Denver Arts Festival kicks off its 18th year on Saturday, June 18, hosting more than 135 local artists from all over the state. The free festival lasts all weekend at the Denver Performing Arts Complex, and everything from 3D mixed media to jewelry to photography will be featured. If live music is more your style, try the 7th annual Denver Day of Rock all day on Saturday, May 28th, when more than 20 bands and musicians—including A Great Big World, Popfilter, and Coin, among others—treat audiences to a series of free concerts from 2:30 P.M. to 9:30 P.M. at the 16th Street Mall. Best of all, the concerts benefit Amp the Cause (formerly known as Concerts for Kids), a local organization dedicated to fighting child hunger—everyone is asked to bring canned food to drop off at designated spots around the venue. Click here to see why Denver was listed as one of Budget Travel's best places to visit in 2015. EASY GETAWAY FROM Salt Lake City; Albuquerque; Las Vegas; Kansas City, M.O.; Phoenix; Dallas; Minneapolis. New York, NY: For free Memorial Day concerts, films, and a parade Don't miss Fleet Week in New York City, a Memorial Day weekend tradition. From May 25th thru the 31st, you'll be able to see military band concerts, aerial demonstrations by the U.S. Navy and U.S. Marine Corps, and search and rescue demonstrations by the U.S. Coast Guard. You'll also be able to tour the ships (for free) at Pier 92, Pier 88, and Pier 86 in Manhattan and at The Sullivans Pier in Staten Island between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. May 26th thru Memorial Day. Catch a free musical performance by the New York Philharmonic at the Cathedral Church of St. John the Divine, one of Budget Travel's most beautiful churches in America—tickets for the 8 p.m. show are free and available on a first-come first-served basis starting at 6 p.m. on May 30. Brooklyn's historic Green-Wood Cemetery also offers a free Memorial Day concert at 2:30 p.m. highlighting the works of some of its most famous residents like Leonard Bernstein among others. Families will want to catch the Brooklyn Memorial Day Parade, a tradition in the Bay Ridge neighborhood of Brooklyn since 1867. All Veterans, regardless of age or war, are invited to participate. The parade starts at 11 A.M. on 78th St. and Third Ave., runs along 3rd Avenue towards Marine Avenue, and continues to 4th Ave. before making its way to John Paul Jones Park for a ceremony in honor of those who have paid the ultimate price for our freedom. EASY GETAWAY FROM Washington, D.C.; Philadelphia; Boston; Charleston, S.C.; Charlotte, N.C.; Baltimore, M.D.; Providence, R.I. Atlanta, G.A.: For fireworks and a Jazz Festival The Atlanta Jazz Festival turns 39 this year and fills the Piedmont Park area with music from May 27 thru 29. Known for being one of the largest free jazz festivals in the country—it typically brings in 225,000 attendees over the three-day weekend—in past years the festival has featured performers like Miles Davis, Dexter Gordon, and Shirley Horn as well as local artists. Kid-friendly activities like face painting and balloon art take place by the playground near the stage, while the live music plays Friday night through Sunday. Getting to the festival is easy—free Lanier shuttles are available from nearby MARTA stations directly to Piedmont park. For more family fun, take the kids to Stone Mountain Park, a 35-minute drive from Atlanta, for some kid-friendly outdoor activities such as the "Sky Hike," a ropes-and-ladders obstacle course through the treetops. In honor of Memorial Day, the park is hosting evening fireworks, free concerts, and a laser show from Saturday through Monday (The Adventure Pass Meal Deal, which includes a free meal with admission, costs $29.95 for those over age 12, and $24.95 for children ages 3-11). As a special thank you, all active and retired military members receive one free adventure pass with a valid ID and can save up to 30 percent off additional tickets per person in your immediate family, as well as a 20 percent discount on food and merchandise inside the park. EASY GETAWAY FROM Savannah; Charleston, S.C.; New Orleans; Nashville; Charlotte, N.C.; Orlando. Miami, FL: For a beach party like no other Even fun-loving Vegas can't quite compete with the blow-out bash that takes place in Miami over Memorial Day weekend. Each year roughly 250,000 party-goers descend on the area for a booze-soaked bacchanalia full of music, dancing, and lots and lots of skin. Clubs around town host special Memorial Day kick-off parties, but the event everyone looks forward to is the Best of the Best Concert on Sunday, May 29—a 10-hour long music extravaganza starting at 2 p.m. in downtown Miami's Bayfront Park (general admission tickets start at $57 per person when ordered online). Of course, the point of the weekend is to honor our veterans, and Miami does so in style with the March of Colors, a parade that starts with a 21-gun salute at All Wars Memorial Park at 10 a.m. and then traverses the Snake Creek Canal Bridge. There are also special events at the North Miami Veterans Memorial starting at 10 a.m. with performances by local artists and musicians. EASY GETAWAY FROM Orlando; Key West, Fla.; Savannah; Charleston, S.C.; New Orleans; Atlanta.