The Hermitage: Art World Royalty

In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, the fact that Mardi Gras was celebrated at all last year came as a surprise to many people--but not to spirited, defiant New Orleanians. Throughout history, the city has endured terrible hardships, including plagues and war. Not even one of America's worst natural disasters could spoil the fun. Watching the Parades Around 60 parades are held during Carnival season, each one hosted by a private organization, or "krewe." Most parades take place in the final 10 days leading up to Fat Tuesday, "Mardi Gras" in French. The big day always falls in late February or early March, on the eve of Lent. Minor parade schedule changes are common; go to mardigras.com for the latest info. Warning: Do not flash body parts in the hopes of encouraging float riders to throw beads, stuffed animals, or other treats. Police zealously crack down on risqué behavior along parade routes. (The exception is the French Quarter. While flashing is still illegal there, it rarely draws even a verbal warning from cops.) A poster saying your hometown LOVES NOLA should do the trick in getting the attention of the folks throwing beads. There are a few must-see parades. Endymion is a large parade with the most "throws," as well as Mardi Gras's longest float, the blocks-long Captain Eddie's S.S. Endymion (Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 4:30 P.M.). At Bacchus, a major celebrity serves as monarch--this year, it was James "Tony Soprano" Gandolfini (Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 5:15 P.M.). Orpheus is a music-based parade founded by Harry Connick Jr. One of the signature floats is Leviathan, a smoke-breathing dragon lit with fiber optics (Monday before Fat Tuesday, 5:45 P.M.). The most prized of all throws are the painted coconuts at Zulu, a century-old African-American celebration that began as a parody of elite white krewes (Fat Tuesday, 8 A.M.). Named for the King of Carnival, Rex includes the reading of the official Carnival proclamation and floats like Boeuf Gras, a huge white bull surrounded by chefs (Fat Tuesday, 10 A.M.). There are also smaller parades worth seeking out. Muses is an all-female affair at which participants toss pumps and teddy bear beads (Thursday before Fat Tuesday, 7:30 P.M.). At Barkus, thousands of dogs march in themed costumes, preceded and followed by a free family-oriented party in Louis Armstrong Park (second Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 2 P.M.). Krewe du Vieux is an over-the-top spectacle with satirical, often raunchy floats; genitalia and sex are common themes (third Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 7 P.M.). Party Guide It's legal to stroll the streets of New Orleans while drinking alcohol, and bars often have sidewalk-service windows. Glass containers aren't allowed outside, however; if you want to leave a bar with your drink, request a plastic "go-cup." The Hurricane, New Orleans's signature drink, packs a wallop with four shots of high-octane rum. Bars charge about $6, though prices go as high as $11 for a 32-ounce concoction in a souvenir jug. Side-street grocery and convenience stores sell liquor, beer, and other beverages. Some Mardi Gras vets carry small coolers or jugs as they wander the Quarter. Many bars have balconies over Bourbon Street. Expect to pay $5 to $20 to perch on one, with time limits at the lower prices. G-Rated Fun? Families can--and do--attend Mardi Gras. One of the parade-watching areas where kids are plentiful and bawdy behavior is frowned upon is a wide grassy area on St. Charles Avenue, under oak trees in the upper Garden District. Views of the night parades, with their lighted floats, are beautifully framed by the huge arching trees. Where to Stay Hotels on or near Canal Street are within easy reach of popular parade routes and the French Quarter. Try the Doubletree Hotel New Orleans (300 Canal, 504/581-1300, from $259) or, for a room on a quiet courtyard, the Dauphine Orleans (415 Dauphine, 504/586-1800, from $259). Book at least three months in advance, earlier if you hope to snag a balcony.

The Rapa Nui civilization flourished for more than a millennium, then abruptly collapsed, leaving Easter Island strewn with hundreds of enormous stone statues called moai. As to how and why the moai were built and moved, or even how people came to the island in the first place, there are at least as many theories as questions. The Probable Explanation Rapa Nui--which is the native name for the island, its inhabitants, and their language--was most likely settled sometime after A.D. 400 by Polynesians with very impressive canoeing skills. They toiled for centuries to prop up moai around the island, apparently with the belief that the statues watched over villages in some way. In 1722, when Dutch explorers stumbled across the island on Easter Sunday (hence the name), they found a seemingly peaceful populace. By the time Captain Cook arrived in 1774, the people had been decimated by a civil war. The sharp decline apparently occurred amid a flurry of moai construction; there are hundreds of unfinished heads, as well as dozens of fully carved statues abandoned in fields. Intended to stand atop cut-stone altars, the moai average 13 feet high and weigh nearly 14 tons each. They were carved at quarries and then moved--probably by being placed on sleds and either rolled on logs or dragged on skids lubricated with taro and palm oil. Of the 288 figures that completed the journey, nearly all were toppled during the civil war, though since the 1950s various preservation groups have stood 35 of them back up. The Most Impressive Moai Sites The stone figures are located all over the island, but some spots are more significant than others. At Nau Nau, near the island's prettiest beach, each of the seven moai sports a pukao--a red, hat-like topknot--and the altar is surrounded by grazing horses. At Tongariki, 15 moai stand in a row right by the sea. Tahai, just outside the main town, has a trio of altars, with restored stone huts, and a worthwhile anthropological museum, known as MAPSE (011-56/322-551-020, museorapanui.cl, $2). There's also one moai that--in a breathtaking lapse of judgment--was spruced up with ceremonial red-and-white eyes for a French magazine's 1978 photo shoot. Rano Raraku, the volcanic crater where the moai were created, is arguably more stunning than any of the altars: Nearly 400 figures remain half-carved in the cliffs, and dozens more lie facedown or sprout from the grassy mountainside like an army frozen in the march to the coast. There's More Than Moai At Orongo, a village of the so-called birdman cult has been reconstructed. The cult, which arose after the civil war, consisted of a dozen clans that each picked a hero for an annual competition. Participants swam through shark-filled waters to retrieve an egg from a sooty tern's nest; the first one back won kingship for his chief. Getting There Easter Island is 2,300 miles west of Chile proper, and is reached via a five-hour flight from Santiago (lanchile.com from $635). Exploring solo is feasible, considering that the island is 14 miles long and 7 miles wide, with few roads and one town (Hanga Roa), and hotels rent cars for $60 a day. Spend at least three days. Hotel Orongo is in town and has a fine restaurant (011-56/322-100-572, hotelorongo.com $78).

Did the scenery deliver? Robert and Donna Royer got their money's worth sightseeing from the train, especially in the Canadian Rockies. "The scenery was magnificent," says Donna. "And we never had trouble finding seats in the dome car." Bob thought it was cool that in order to assure passengers of clear views (and photos), attendants washed the windows often. The couple stopped in Alberta for a few days to explore Lake Louise and Jasper National Park. "We saw lots of elk from the train," says Bob. "And, near Maligne Lake, we took pictures of Rocky Mountain sheep." Donna, an avid birder, was a bit disappointed not to see much besides Canada geese. "It was fall, so birds had flown south. But early one morning in Saskatchewan, I did see a dozen blue-gray sandhill cranes dancing on the prairie in the misty sunlight." Favorite discoveries: "We found really interesting brewpubs all across Canada," says Bob. "But the best was La Barberie in Quebec City (310 rue St-Roch, 418/522-4373). It was so good we went back three times! They don't serve food though, so we brought our own lunches--salami and cheese we bought at a farmer's market and bread from Boulangerie Paul nearby" (217 rue St-Paul, 418/694-7246). Any unique souvenirs? "The Winnipeg Book Walk was terrific," says Donna. "We bought lots of paperbacks to read on the train." Advice for other readers: The Royers did a lot of exploring on foot, but Bob says they often got more exercise than they'd bargained for. "I learned quickly that when asking for directions in a city, you have to take them with a grain of salt. Canadians are serious walkers, so when they tell you something is "a couple of blocks away,' be prepared to walk 17 long ones!" Donna laughs, "I lost about five pounds on the trip with all the miles we covered." Life on the trains: "We didn't use the sleeper cars," says Donna. "They were expensive, a minimum of $250, as I remember." Bob adds, "They'd have cost multiples of what we spent on our passes." When the Royers did spend the night on the train, they were happy enough in their coach seats. "The longest leg of our journey was 30 hours from Winnipeg to Toronto," says Donna. "The helpful VIA Rail attendants gave us blankets and pillows, as well as a little packet containing a sleep mask, earplugs, and a mini-washcloth."

Who's Traveling Robert and Donna Royer of Bosque Farms, N.M., about 20 miles south of Albuquerque. Bob is a semiretired research professor of organic chemistry at the University of New Mexico School of Medicine. "He's a quiet man, on paper and in person," says Donna. She's a retired mail carrier for the postal service. "I loved it because I got to be outdoors all the time." Donna looks after Czar, the 23-year-old horse they've owned since he was foaled, as well as three cats and a vegetable garden. Where They're Going To celebrate their 33rd anniversary, the Royers are traveling across Canada by train. "The trip is enticing because of the scenic beauty," says Donna. Bob is (pardon the pun) totally onboard. "Trains are my favorite way to travel," he says. "You get to see more and it's very relaxing." The Royers bought 30-day North America Rail Passes from VIA Rail Canada, which they'll use to traverse the 3,700 miles from Vancouver to Halifax (amtrak.com or via.ca, from $709). They'll make some plans in advance, but Donna doesn't want to be locked into a schedule. "A couple of years ago, we visited Utah without any particular itinerary," she says. "While I tended to overplan our trips early in our marriage, Bob has since taught me the beauty of serendipity." How Can We Help?The right pass: "Will 30 days give us time for four to six short stopovers?" asks Bob. "We'd like to spend a few days in each city." Sleeping on the train: Donna has made reservations at B&Bs and hostels here and there, but she'd like more suggestions. "Do we need to book sleeper cars in advance, too?" she wonders. Sightseeing: Aside from Montreal and Halifax, for the history and food, not much else so far has caught their eye. "Where do you recommend we stop along the route?" asks Bob. Flexibility: "We'll want to get outside the cities," says Bob. "Will car rentals or public transportation from the train stations present a problem?" Sticking to a budget: "We're both as tight as the bark on a tree," Donna laughs. "With your ideas, we're really hoping to have a fantastic trip without spending a fortune." Here's Our AdviceThe trains: Bob and Donna's passes allow them unlimited stops in a 30-day period. To get from Vancouver to Halifax, they'll need to take three trains: the Canadian (Vancouver-Toronto), the Corridor (Toronto-Montreal), and the Ocean (Montreal-Halifax). Passes are valid for seats in coach, which recline but don't fold flat. The Canadian offers two classes of sleeper service: semiprivate (three sets of bunks, separated by curtains, from $200) and private (from $375). All cabins have toilets and sinks; there are shared shower rooms. Fares include meals in the dining car. On the Ocean, meals cost extra, and cabins have either a toilet and sink ($85) or a full bath with a shower ($95). The Corridor doesn't have sleeper cars because the ride from Toronto to Montreal is only five hours. To secure these prices, the Royers must reserve at least five days in advance; late bookings cost $40-$70 more. If Bob and Donna were traveling in the summer high season, they'd have to make sleeper car reservations within 21 days of travel and pay a $50-$200 premium. Vancouver, British Columbia: Before boarding the train, the Royers are spending a couple of days in Vancouver. It's a great city, but one of the best things about it is its location--it's surrounded by gorgeous scenery. Just 40 minutes north (SeaBus ferry to the No. 236 bus, $3 for both) is the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which hangs 230 feet above a canyon (604/985-7474, capbridge.com). If the Royers don't want to pay the $21 admission, there's Lynn Canyon Park's suspension bridge instead. It's not as impressive (166 feet high), but it's free (604/981-3103, lynncanyonparkguide.bc.ca). Jasper, Alberta: "We'd like to see wildlife on our hikes and drives," says Bob. At Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park, snowcapped peaks tower above the brilliant aquamarine water (780/852-6176, pc.gc.ca, $8). It's a 60-minute drive south of Jasper; Hertz, Thrifty, and National rent cars at the train station starting at $35 a day. Alternatively, Maligne Tours sells five-hour excursions that include a round-trip shuttle and boat cruise (780/852-3370, malignelake.com, $57). Either way, the Royers should keep their eyes peeled for bears, deer, and elk--spring and fall are peak viewing seasons. Winnipeg, Manitoba: Because Donna describes herself and Bob as bookish, they ought to pick up a free copy of Winnipeg's Book Walk at the city's tourism office (259 Portage Ave., 204/943-1970, destinationwinnipeg.ca). The brochure outlines a self-guided walking tour to 10 downtown bookstores, many of which sell used and rare books. Highbrow Books, for example, specializes in the humanities and sciences (310 Donald St., 204/943-5668). Toronto, Ontario: "Chocolate is a basic food group, as far as I'm concerned," says Donna. "I have a chocolate addiction!" chimes in Bob. The Distillery District, 13 acres of Victorian warehouses converted in 2001 into a pedestrian-only mall (55 Mill St., thedistillerydistrict.com), is a 10-minute bus ride from the train station (No. 72 or No. 172, $2). Inside, the Royers will find Soma Chocolatemaker, famous for its decadent Mayan Hot Chocolate ($9), and the Mill Street Brewery, which makes a popular dark-brown porter with hints of chocolate ($2). Montreal, Quebec: "I especially like places where you can visit most things on foot," says Bob. "We often wander around just to see interesting buildings." They'll love the oldest part of the city, Vieux-Montreal, where cobblestoned streets are lined with fantastic examples of 18th-century architecture. The area is also home to the gloriously ornate Notre-Dame Basilica, which was built in 1829 (110 rue Notre-Dame Ouest, $4). Quebec City, Quebec: Bob tells us crepes are "Donna's type of food," but he'll want to give Le Casse-Crepe Breton a try anyway. The couple can build their own with veggies, cheese, and ham--or they can stick with chocolate (1136 rue St-Jean, 418/692-0438, from $4). And although the city should keep them entertained, Montmorency Falls is a 30-minute bus ride away if they get bored (take No. 800 to No. 50, $2). For $7, a cable car deposits visitors at the base of a waterfall that's one and a half times the height of those in Niagara (418/663-3330, sepaq.com). Halifax, Nova Scotia: The Royers are history buffs, so they'll enjoy a visit to Pier 21, Canada's Ellis Island, which is behind the train station (902/425-7770, pier21.ca, $7). More than a million immigrants entered Canada here between 1928 and 1971; their stories and photos are on display in the exhibition hall. Because the couple loves seafood, a fitting way to celebrate the end of the journey is dinner at Economy Shoe Shop (1663 Argyle St., 902/423-7463, entrees from $9). Despite its odd name, "The Shoe" is one of the most popular restaurants in Halifax, with jazz on Monday nights and a menu that includes a delicious lobster and scallop vol-au-vent. Expert Advice: Wildlife Photos Photographer Donald Jones's latest book is Buffalo Country: America's National Bison Range. His tips:   "Go out in the early morning when the animals are full of energy and light is low and warm."   "To capture animals in motion, use a camera that shoots at least three frames per second. (Mine shoots eight-and-a-half and I still miss things.)"   "Get the entire animal in the frame. Don't cut off its legs!"