The Sahara: Dry But Never Boring

By Chris Scott
February 7, 2007
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Where Mother Nature is on display at her most desolate--and perhaps her most beautiful.

A wilderness of sun-baked plateaus, palm-fringed oases, and mesmerizing sand seas, the Sahara measures nearly 3.5 million square miles, and reaches into 10 countries. Of those, Niger and Libya arguably offer the most impressive scenery, while Morocco is attractive because of convenient flights, great cities like Marrakech, and the fact that U.S. citizens staying less than three months don't need visas.

To Morocco and Beyond
Royal Air Maroc flies from Washington, D.C., and New York City to Marrakech starting at around $860 (800/344-6726, royalairmaroc.com). There are also daily direct flights from most major European cities, including London via low-fare EasyJet. Adventure Center offers many tours of Morocco, including Sahara Camel Trek (15 days from $970 per person) and Saharan Sands Family Holiday (eight days from $817), both of which come with camel rides and camping in the dunes of the Sahara (800/228-8747, adventurecenter.com).

Adventure Center runs several tours of the Libyan Sahara starting at $1,640 for 12 days. But entry rules for Libya have changed several times in recent years. Some Americans have followed the complex visa process only to have their visas cancelled on arrival for no apparent reason. Visiting now might be too risky.

Visas for Niger can be arranged through a tour operator or the embassy in D.C. (202/483-4224, nigerembassyusa.org). Tours there, however, are pricy: Tucson-based Nomade Sahara Expedition has a 15-day, see-it-all Air-Tenere-Djado itinerary for $4,800 per person for two, or $3,600 if six are traveling together (520/572-9724, saharaexpedition.com). A charter flight from Paris is often the cheapest way to get to Niger; inquire with your tour operator about the details.

What to Pack for a Desert Excursion
Tour operators make it easy by listing exactly what participants should bring, including a sweater--the desert is cold at night. No special gear is required. Tents and cooking equipment are provided by guides, as are meals, which start with bread baked under embers in the hot sand. To protect yourself from the sun and wind, you could bring a hat and kerchief. Better yet, plan on buying a Tuareg turban, or cheche, when you arrive. It will really do the trick and makes for a fun souvenir; your guide can show you how to tie it.

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Overwater Bungalows: Stay Literally on the Ocean

French Polynesia remains the undisputed capital of overwater escapes, where $700 is the typical starting price for a hut poised on stilts in a tranquil, aquamarine lagoon. But resorts exist that are both far more affordable than Bora Bora and still within belly-flopping distance of the water. Bermuda Opened in April 2005 on Bermuda's west side, 50 minutes from the airport, the 18-acre 9 Beaches resort gives the overwater bungalow concept something of a Cape Cod twist. The cabanas are constructed from a breathable canvas fabric stretched over an aluminum frame, for an appearance that's more seaside cottage than South Seas thatched-roof cabin. The design allows cool Atlantic breezes to circulate (though bungalows also have air-conditioning). Of the resort's 84 units, 17 stand on wooden piers over the water; see-through floor panels reveal sea life beneath. 866/841-9009, 9beaches.com, overwater bungalow $340 in spring and winter. French Polynesia South Pacific bargains, relatively speaking, come in the form of a pair of Pearl Resorts, in popular Moorea (within easy reach of Tahiti by ferry or plane) and less visited Raiatea, which is the second-biggest island in all of French Polynesia after Tahiti (a $297, 40-minute flight from Papeete). Overwater bungalows at the Raiatea Hawaikik Nui Hotel have high ceilings and oversize verandas; at Moorea Pearl Resort & Spa, guests slumber in rooms adorned with fresh flowers and high-thread-count sheets, a quick swim away from white-sand beaches. 800/657-3275, pearlresorts.com, Raiatea overwater bungalow $569 June-November; Moorea $329 June-November. Philippines The El Nido Lagen Island Resort's 51 air-conditioned cabins (18 over the water) are in a protected cove surrounded by lush forests and sheer limestone cliffs. Though the stilts and walls of the overwater units are concrete, the interiors have an elegant warmth, with floors and furnishings made of antique wood repurposed from Philippine homes. A 65-minute flight from Manila ($285) followed by a water taxi (free for guests) gets you there. Note: The U.S. State Department has issued a travel warning for the Philippines, so use caution. 011-632/894-5644, elnidoresorts.com, overwater bungalow $256 June-October. Panama Two tiny, remote overwater bungalow resorts in Panama do a wonderful job of copying the romantic thatched-roof South Pacific look and atmosphere. Punta Caracol Acqua-Lodge is reached via a one-hour flight from Panama City ($140 round trip) followed by a water taxi that's complimentary for guests. The resort has nine bungalows--all two stories, built carefully to avoid damaging the coral below, with solar power and gorgeous palm-leaf roofs. 011-507/6612-1088, puntacaracol.com, $300 mid-May-June and September-mid-December. Near the San Blas Islands, 25 minutes by plane from Panama City (about $65 round trip), the Coral Lodge's six casitas all sit over the water. They boast soaring roofs and creature comforts like Jacuzzis and air-conditioning. 011-507/317-6754, corallodge.com, $215 year-round except Christmastime. Isolation's Downside Because these resorts are so remote, dining on property is often the only option--so ask about meal costs before you book. Also, when checking in, request the most secluded suite available; sound really carries over water. Cabin Fever Two or three overwater nights should suffice. Complete the vacation by staying in a less expensive room or a cheaper hotel nearby that has an equally nice beach. An air/hotel package can also save you money, though companies often only include bungalows at bigger (and pricier) resorts. Request a custom-made package from South Pacific specialists like SunSpots (sunspotsintl.com) and ATS Tours (atstours.com) to see if it'll cost less than booking air and lodging piecemeal.

Mexico Aflutter: The Amazing Migration

As the day heats up at Mexico's 217-square-mile Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve, the insects fly to cool off. Scales fall from their wings, and black and orange glitter fills the air. Finding SanctuaryWithin the reserve, four butterfly sanctuaries are open to the public: El Rosario and Sierra Chincua, in the state of Michoacan, and La Mesa and Cerro Pelon's El Capulin, in the neighboring state of Mexico. The monarchs start arriving in mid-November and stay through mid-March, before returning to their summertime homes, as far as 3,000 miles away, in the eastern U.S. and Canada. The butterflies nest above 10,000 feet, and visitors usually must walk a mile or two to reach them, so it's best to hike slowly, drink plenty of water, and bring warm clothing in case of bad weather. The city of Morelia, served by nonstop flights from Mexico City, Houston, and Los Angeles, is the best launching point for visitors. Ten-hour guided trips from MMG Tours leave Morelia on most mornings and head to El Rosario or Sierra Chincua (011-52/443-340-4632, mmg.com.mx, $50). Rocamar Tours' two-night package includes guides, transportation, lodging in Morelia and at the foot of the mountains in Zitacuaro, and a visit to El Capulin and either El Rosario or Sierra Chincua (866/762-2627, rocamar.com.mx, $370 per person double). A more in-depth tour, G.A.P Adventures' nine-night Mexico Monarch Butterfly Trail package--with transportation from Mexico City, visits to sanctuaries, horseback riding, and other adventures--will be offered in early 2008 (800/708-7761, gapadventures.com, from $795). Going It Alone There are no sanctuary websites or reliable phone numbers, but the World Wildlife Fund posts information about services--horseback riding, cabin rentals--at the sanctuaries, as well as detailed driving directions, at wwf.org.mx. Park admission ($2-$5) includes a tour guide who probably won't be fluent in English. Checking IDsResearchers attach plastic ID tags to some butterflies' wings. If you see one, report the tag number and location to monarchwatch.org. For Social Butterflies Angangueo, a colonial town 45 minutes by car from El Rosario, makes an ideal base for independent sightseers (Hotel Don Bruno, 011-52/715-156-0026, from $70). The town hosts dance and craft shows during the month-long Monarch Festival every February.

The Hermitage: Art World Royalty

With nearly 3 million works of art, the five gold-encrusted buildings that constitute the State Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg are overwhelming, to say the least. A common piece of advice is to visit over several days. Even so, prioritizing is essential. The Highlights Start at the baroque, block-long Winter Palace, the oldest of the buildings, commissioned in 1754. The imperial family's former living quarters, located upstairs from the white-marble Jordan Staircase, are the museum's most historic rooms. In the Small Dining Room, members of the Provisional Government were arrested in 1917 by the Bolsheviks; a mantel clock reads 2:10, the supposed time when power was transferred. The imperial throne and 332 portraits of Russian and Napoleonic war leaders are nearby. The Winter Palace is also where you'll find terrific artwork, including The Dance, Henri Matisse's 1909 masterpiece of five nude figures cavorting in a circle, on the second floor in the Impressionist and Postimpressionist collection. A ground-floor hall showcases the discoveries from fifth century B.C. tombs, including wood carvings and the world's oldest carpet, which is faded but still gorgeous, and adorned with deer and griffins. You can't go wrong wandering the other buildings, but there are a few things to keep an eye out for. The 19-ton Kolyvan Vase, in the New Hermitage, was carved in Siberia and dragged over ice beds to St. Petersburg by 153 horses and nearly 1,000 men. The New Hermitage is also home to the world's largest collection of Rembrandt's paintings (there are 23), on the first floor. The Small Hermitage's architectural dazzler is the Pavilion Room, notable for its white-marble columns, 28 crystal chandeliers, and banks of windows. More Access Membership in the U.K.'s Friends of the Hermitage costs $148 and not only gains you standard entry for a year--you can also tour the open storage facility, with the imperial carriages and other pieces that most visitors never lay eyes on (011-44/207-845-4635, hermitagefriends.org). Buying a Package vs. Going It Alone Booking on your own is possible, though acquiring the $100 visa is complicated; paying $75 for a tour operator to do it is probably worth the expense. Eastern Tours includes flights from New York City, four nights' hotel, and a tour of St. Petersburg and the Hermitage from $999 through mid-April (800/339-6967, traveltorussia.com). Taxes and visas add $550 more. Admission to the Hermitage costs $13, and an extra $4 or $11 allows you to snap photos or use a video camera, respectively. To skip the admission lines, book at hermitagemuseum.org. You'll be e-mailed a voucher, which you should print out and bring with you to exchange for a ticket.

Mardi Gras: Still America's Best Party

In the aftermath of Hurricane Katrina, the fact that Mardi Gras was celebrated at all last year came as a surprise to many people--but not to spirited, defiant New Orleanians. Throughout history, the city has endured terrible hardships, including plagues and war. Not even one of America's worst natural disasters could spoil the fun. Watching the Parades Around 60 parades are held during Carnival season, each one hosted by a private organization, or "krewe." Most parades take place in the final 10 days leading up to Fat Tuesday, "Mardi Gras" in French. The big day always falls in late February or early March, on the eve of Lent. Minor parade schedule changes are common; go to mardigras.com for the latest info. Warning: Do not flash body parts in the hopes of encouraging float riders to throw beads, stuffed animals, or other treats. Police zealously crack down on risqué behavior along parade routes. (The exception is the French Quarter. While flashing is still illegal there, it rarely draws even a verbal warning from cops.) A poster saying your hometown LOVES NOLA should do the trick in getting the attention of the folks throwing beads. There are a few must-see parades. Endymion is a large parade with the most "throws," as well as Mardi Gras's longest float, the blocks-long Captain Eddie's S.S. Endymion (Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 4:30 P.M.). At Bacchus, a major celebrity serves as monarch--this year, it was James "Tony Soprano" Gandolfini (Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 5:15 P.M.). Orpheus is a music-based parade founded by Harry Connick Jr. One of the signature floats is Leviathan, a smoke-breathing dragon lit with fiber optics (Monday before Fat Tuesday, 5:45 P.M.). The most prized of all throws are the painted coconuts at Zulu, a century-old African-American celebration that began as a parody of elite white krewes (Fat Tuesday, 8 A.M.). Named for the King of Carnival, Rex includes the reading of the official Carnival proclamation and floats like Boeuf Gras, a huge white bull surrounded by chefs (Fat Tuesday, 10 A.M.). There are also smaller parades worth seeking out. Muses is an all-female affair at which participants toss pumps and teddy bear beads (Thursday before Fat Tuesday, 7:30 P.M.). At Barkus, thousands of dogs march in themed costumes, preceded and followed by a free family-oriented party in Louis Armstrong Park (second Sunday before Fat Tuesday, 2 P.M.). Krewe du Vieux is an over-the-top spectacle with satirical, often raunchy floats; genitalia and sex are common themes (third Saturday before Fat Tuesday, 7 P.M.). Party Guide It's legal to stroll the streets of New Orleans while drinking alcohol, and bars often have sidewalk-service windows. Glass containers aren't allowed outside, however; if you want to leave a bar with your drink, request a plastic "go-cup." The Hurricane, New Orleans's signature drink, packs a wallop with four shots of high-octane rum. Bars charge about $6, though prices go as high as $11 for a 32-ounce concoction in a souvenir jug. Side-street grocery and convenience stores sell liquor, beer, and other beverages. Some Mardi Gras vets carry small coolers or jugs as they wander the Quarter. Many bars have balconies over Bourbon Street. Expect to pay $5 to $20 to perch on one, with time limits at the lower prices. G-Rated Fun? Families can--and do--attend Mardi Gras. One of the parade-watching areas where kids are plentiful and bawdy behavior is frowned upon is a wide grassy area on St. Charles Avenue, under oak trees in the upper Garden District. Views of the night parades, with their lighted floats, are beautifully framed by the huge arching trees. Where to Stay Hotels on or near Canal Street are within easy reach of popular parade routes and the French Quarter. Try the Doubletree Hotel New Orleans (300 Canal, 504/581-1300, from $259) or, for a room on a quiet courtyard, the Dauphine Orleans (415 Dauphine, 504/586-1800, from $259). Book at least three months in advance, earlier if you hope to snag a balcony.