The truth about Chattanooga

By Sean O'Neill
October 3, 2012

A reader has written us to complain about a story that Budget Travel ran a couple of years ago, called "My Hometown: Chattanooga." (Read it here.)

Lisa Lowe Stauffer, who is a native-born daughter of the city, says the article "wasn't bad, just superficial." She adds: "There's so much more to Chattanooga than funky shops and the Choo Choo."

Now, personally, I still think very highly of the piece that Budget Travel ran. But I thought I'd share with you Stauffer's own, unedited take on this much-beloved city...

Nestled along the Tennessee River, enclosed by mountains, Chattanooga is set in one of the world's most beautiful places. It has been a crossroads since the days when spear-throwing was a life skill. The Moccasin Bend National Park, slated to open to visitors in a couple of years, will explore this history with exhibits, archeology finds, and nature trails.

Chattanooga's early incarnation, Ross's Landing, was part of the Cherokee Nation. Pivotal events of the Trail of Tears happened here. As the river front has been redeveloped in recent years, an outdoor art space, "The Passage," has been created to commemorate this Cherokee heritage. The Passage is located next to the Tennessee Aquarium (excellent fresh water exhibits!), along the Riverwalk, a 10-mile pedestrian/cycling trail that leads upriver from the boat landing. Tony's Pasta, just a couple of blocks off the Riverwalk, in the Bluff View Art district, is my absolute, hands-down favorite restaurant.

When the Civil War raged, Chattanooga was at its center, with cannon fire, sieges, and stark battles up the side of Lookout Mountain, along Missionary Ridge, and in nearby Chickamauga, GA.

If music interests you, Chattanooga offers everything from the Riverbend Festival each June with a myriad of musical groups, to a great symphony orchestra which performs in the beautifully-preserved Beaux Arts 1921 Tivoli Theater. If you're lucky, you can catch a showing of a classic movie at the Tivoli. It feels like stepping back in time.

The Hunter Art Museum, a school field trip every few years when I was a kid, has grown to have a wonderful collection of American art, from Colonial to modern times. It's located in the Bluff View Art district.

And outdoor activities abound. Lake Chickamauga offers several state parks. Boating, fishing, camping, water-skiing, and lazing in the cool water are perfect summer pastimes. (For state park information, click here.)

Rock climbers can test their skills at places like The Walnut Wall (under a pedestrian bridge) and Sunset Rock. And just south of town, hang-gliders step off Lookout Mountain, imitating the hawks that circle in the unpolluted sky. (Learn more at Outdoorchattanooga.com.)

So when you go to Chattanooga, lift your eyes to the mountains, swim in the lake, glide in the sky, walk by the river, eat fresh pasta, and think of me. After all, it's my hometown.--Lisa Lowe Stauffer

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Reader Stephanie Johnson of Manhattan Beach, Calif., recently shared with us a fascinating thrill she has experienced... On my most recent trip to New Zealand, I went on an adventure tour with my sister and a group of American college students. Our two-week tour dropped us in Waitomo, New Zealand, to go "Black Water Rafting." I had no idea what this activity could possibly entail, but I was up for the challenge. First, we practiced abseiling, which is like repelling, or roping down. Then we were off to a small platform from which we abseiled to underground caves. Out of the eight of us, I was number five. I slowly stepped off the platform and was completely supported by a rope and a sling. This was it. I lowered myself toward complete darkness through a tight tunnel, the end of which I could not see. Friends at the bottom cheered when I arrived underground. </p> <p> </p> <p>_uacct = "UA-1844627-1";</p> <p>urchinTracker();</p> <p> The next step was to ride on a zipline through the first cave. Once again, there was no visibility, but it was a thrilling ride to an unknown destination. Our guides pulled out two inner tubes. Those inner tubes would soon be the only thing holding us together and afloat. We were instructed to place the inner tubes on our behinds and jump off the ledge into the water. Not knowing how far down it was, we all hesitated, but we knew this would be the only way out. When we splashed into the water below, we weren't sure how we would move though the caves. We connected our tubes and were pulled by our guides. This was black water rafting! As we laid back and looked toward what would be the sky, we saw millions of tiny bright lights. Outside the sun was shining, but in the caves, the glowworms created a beautiful night sky of twinkling stars. We enjoyed the relaxing ride, but soon our bodies and minds would be put to the test. We waded through cold, dark water to the base of a gorgeous waterfall whose source was an above-ground spring. Our guides informed us that this would be the only way to get out. We would be challenged to climb up a series of three waterfalls in order to see the sunlight. There would be rushing water, wet rocks, tight spaces, and unexpected physical and mental challenges. I did my best. When I saw daylight, I knew I was close and I pushed ahead, making my way toward the last hurdle. I emerged from the caves with the highest feeling of accomplishment. This achievement deserved celebration, but first, we needed breakfast. To learn more about black water rafting in New Zealand, click here. You may also want to see our 2007 Cool Thrills List, complete with videos of selected thrills. (Note: Stephanie's email was edited for publication.)

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Book a stylish, centrally-located London hotel at a discount. Budget Travel recently introduced readers to the Hoxton Hotel, which debuted last fall in London's financial district. Each of the hotel's 205 rooms feature "wood paneling, down duvets and pillows, and a fridge filled with free mineral water and milk." (See article here.) Turns out that the EuroCheapo blog has discovered a trick for booking a stay at this cool hotel at a discount. Simply sign up for the hotel's email newsletter, which offers exclusive sales. You'll find rooms available for between $10 and $160 a night. (Even a $160 a night room is still a deal in London, because of the watery value of the U.S. dollar agains the British pound.) Details here. And for more suggestions for cheap hotels in London, click here. Good-bye, seatback TVs on airplanes. Hello, personal media players.... ...American Airlines will be offering passengers multi-media devices with Bose noise-canceling headphones to passengers on selected long-haul flights out of Chicago, New York City, and Los Angeles. The devices come pre-loaded with a dozen feature films, up to 15 hours of TV programs, and hundreds of hours of popular tunes, according to this press release. American will charge a fee to coach passengers who want to use the device. The airline hasn't announced the exact fee, but the rumor is that it will be about $5 a flight. First-class and business passengers will get to use the devices for free, of course. If the test is successful, American will make the devices available on all of its long-haul flights. Readers offer their own photography tips. This Just In recently directed readers to this slide show offering advice on "How to take better pictures of your friends." Reader Ed Fitzgerald offers the following additional tip: "What you didn't say was that you also moved in closer and got rid of that competing background that had that awful flash highlight that is distracting. Most people do not crop close enough in the camera when they are taking people pictures." Consider yourself warned. For more reader tips on traveling smarter, click here.)