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Peter Potterfield: Hello, this is adventure journalist Peter Potterfield, author of books and magazine pieces on hiking and backcountry travel. I'm ready to answer questions (or at least try to) on hikes, gear and adventure travel, so let's get started. _______________________ Phoenix, Ariz.: We're planning a girlfriends hiking trip up to the top of Mount Humphreys in Flagstaff in late May or early June. We live in Phoenix, and the peak is part of the San Francisco Peaks mountain range, just 2 1/2 hours north of us. Typically, the mountain gets freaky weather, i.e. thunderstorms with dangerous lightning and even snow, even in July. What gear would you recommend and how much time should we allot for the trip? I know it can be done in a day and once made it to the treeline at 11,000 feet. This time, we'd like to get to the top. I also need to acclimate myself to the altitude. Can I avoid any problems with that if we arrive the night before the hike? Thanks! -Pam S., 44 years old Peter Potterfield: Most people do this route in a day, and altitude is a common complaint. At more than 12,600 feet, this is Arizona's highest peak, and not one to be taken lightly. You'll need to be prepared for all weathers, even prepared to turn around if the weather turns serious. As for acclimatization, the best way to do that would be to camp above 5,000 feet for a couple of nights, allowing your body to adjust to the thinner air. The potential for serious altitude sickness is not great, however, on a day trip, as the idea is to get down to lower altitudes quickly before serious complications can set in. My advice: get an early start, pre-dawn, by headlight. _______________________ Sun Prairie, Wis.: In August of 2009 I'm planning a retirement trip with 10 or 20 of my closest friends. We are going to walk across England at Hadrian's Wall. Should we walk west to east or east to west? Peter Potterfield: The 80 mile walk that follows the Roman fortification known as Hadrian's Wall is a terrific route, bisecting England from Newcastle to Solway Firth, near Carlisle. You can hike it in either direction, although the prevailing tendency seems to be west to east, ending in Newcastle. It comes down to personal preference, and the direction you support company takes. Most people on this route have their bags shuttled to the next accommodation by an operator; there are several good ones, some go west to east, some the opposite. _______________________ Prescott, Ariz.: My wife and I will be staying at park lodges in Yosemite and Sequoia in early fall. What 6 to 8 mile hikes would you recommend in both parks? Peter Potterfield: In Yosemite, I think some of the best hikes are up in Tuolomne Meadows, a beautiful alpine environment, many in the six to eight mile range you are looking for. Elilzabeth Lake, under Unicorn Peak, or Evelyn Lake, or Cathedral Pass are all good hikes south of Highway 120, and Tuolomne Falls and Gaylor Lakes are good ones north of the highway. Yosemite is your best bet for shorter hikes, as some of the best routes in Sequoia are much longer and require more time. _______________________ Ponce Inlet, Fla.: I will be 50 and my girlfriend 60 03/09 when we hike the South Island of NZ. We are booked for the Milford Trek & to heli-hike Franz Joseph Glacier. We are both from FL and concerned about our fear of heights getting in the way. We are not phobic--she's just concerned about the swinging bridges over chasms & I'm mainly concerned about crevices on the glacier. Any advice is greatly appreciated! Peter Potterfield: I think you'll do fine. The Milford is a beautiful but moderate route, and there's a guided option available. Consider that, as it gives you more comfortable lodges and attentive professional guides who know the trail like their own backyards. That takes any uncertainty out of this world famous walk. The trip up to the Franz Joseph should present no problems, either. The helicopter ride is half the fun, the Kiwis are nuts about helicopters, they use them all the time, sometimes just to blow the cold air off the fruit orchards in a freeze. The guides will make sure that you're safe while on the glacier, so it will be an experience you won't forget. The South Island has a number of great hikes, out of both Wanaka and Queenstown, and you'll find the New Zealanders to be friendly and relaxed, the food and wine top notch. _______________________ Saint Louis, Mo.: My husband and I are planning a hike into the Grand Canyon in March, 2008 to Havasu Falls. We are taking our 10 year old son along, so my questions are directed at preparing him and keeping him "motivated" along the 10 mile hike. What walking/hiking techniques are best to teach him to physically handle the hike, and how to I keep him motivated along the 10 mile route? While the hike is not constantly changing elevations, it is the length of the hike that I am concerned about. We have been preparing him by hiking with him 3 miles at a time with a 5 miler planned in the near future. Thanks! Julie Peter Potterfield: I took my 10 year old god son on a three day, 15-mile hike in the Cascades, and it was a trip he's never forgotten, so I'd say go for it. Just remember he's not going to have the stamina you have, it's just not possible. Best would be to break the hike into two five mile sections, or pick another hike that's a bit shorter, say six or seven miles. Then, plan on a slightly slower pace and more frequent breaks that an adult hiker would need. Bring lots of quick energy snacks, such as granola bars, to keep the kid's blood sugar up. In my experience, most kids rise to the challenge, and soldier on even if a bit fatigued. There's nothing better than exposing a young person to the joys of wilderness travel, it can change a life _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: I just signed up for a 10-hour day-long hike in the Grand Canyon in May. What are the best ways to prepare and train? And, what should I be sure to bring vs. what should I leave at home? I'm not camping, just staying at a hotel. Peter Potterfield: For the long day hike you describe, training should not present a problem. Just start walking right now, right in your neighborhood, even just a half hour a day, and gradually work up to an hour or so a day. When you're able to hike two hours (try to work in some hills as you get stronger) you'll be in decent shape. Do the 2 hour walks twice a week for two weeks and you'll be well prepared for the 10 hour hike in the canyon. On the hike itself, bring plenty of water, and the right outerwear and rain gear in case the weather changes suddenly. But most important is to ensure you have comfortable, light-weight hiking boots—well broken in on your training walks. _______________________ North Bergen, N.J.: What recommendations do you have about hiking in Nepal? Peter Potterfield: The hike to do in the Himalaya is the Everest Base Camp Trek. It's 35 miles through the greatest scenery on earth, a trip you'll never forget. Comfortable lodges now can be found along the route, and a competent Sherpa staff will make sure you are safe and comfortable during the trek, whether you're staying in the lodges or camping out higher up. Altitude is the primary consideration, but the pace is slow, only four to five hours walking a day to allow for acclimatization, so at worst most people suffer only mild headaches. If you find the altitude to be a real problem, and that can happen, you can stop and enjoy the scenery at a place like Thyangboche, at 12,000 feet, instead of going all the way to Base Camp at 17,500. But most people recover after a day or two of rest and are able to keep going. I recommend going with a competent, North America based guide service; I recommend several proven guide services in my book, Classic Hikes of the World. Experienced guides are crucial for novices on this hike as they know the difference between oridnary discomfort and dangerous altitude sickness. _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: My brother and I are avid hikers in the Pacific NW but haven't ventured much outside the area. Your book has inspired us to make plans. Which was your favorite hike and why? What hike would have been #24? Is there a second book coming out? And are you doing any speaking engagements this year? Peter Potterfield: Picking a favorite hike is like picking a favorite child! It's not easy. I think the best hike for me and everyone else may be the one we're planning next, because it's not so important where we go but that we be sure to get out and go hiking. For me, the American Southwest is a special treat, and both the Grand Canyon National Park (South Kaibab Trail) and Canyonlands National Park (Chessler Park Trail) are two of my favorite places for hiking. Yes, It was definitely deciding on the top routes for Classic Hikes of the World. If there had been more space, I think I would have included another hike in the Canadian Rockies, such as the Tonquin Valley, and another in Europe, in the Swiss Alps. And yes, I'm just about to embark on a 20 city slide show tour, so check classichikes.com for cities and dates _______________________ Alexandria, Va.: For my sister's 60th birthday, I'm planning on a long (3 or 4-day) girls' weekend, in late spring or early summer 2008. Can you suggest any locations where we'd be able to take several scenic hikes of a few hours' duration during the weekend? The hikes would need to be somewhat easy, since my sister has had problems with the medial meniscous in one knee. I'd like a place where our accommodations would provide a bit of luxury for the birthday girl. We'd be flying or driving out of the Washington, D.C. area, so I'm open to suggestions anywhere in the continental US. Thanks! Peter Potterfield: Quite close to the DC area itself you can find great easy day hikes in Shenandoah National Park, where Skyline Drive makes for easy access to the trail heads, and that makes it easier on the knees. For a luxury base, think of flying to Vancouver, BC, and making the short drive up to Whistler. This famous ski area has all the luxury you could ask for, and during summer, the surrounding mountains and meadows make for world class hiking. Or, consider the comfortable Ahwahnee hotel in Yosemite National Park. Right in Yosemite valley, the hotel makes a luxurious base from which to take easy day hikes around the meadows and trails allover the valley floor, or venture up to Yosemite Falls if the knees are holding up. _______________________ Bellbrook, Ohio: My husband and I would like to plan a week long vacation that would involve staying at a base town/city, with terrific day hikes within short driving distance. Would love to go to international locales. Peter Potterfield: There are many great places to make a base from which to go on day hikes, and if you're open to international travel, all the better. One of my favorites is in Grindelwald, Switzerland, where there are great hotels and you are literally surrounded by stupendous Alpine hiking in every direction. One of my favorite hikes out of town is take the teleferique up to First and then hike up to Lake Bachal. Day hikes are a tradition in the Alps, endowed with some of the best mountain scenery anywhere, so you can't go wrong. Another international destination perfect for day hikes is the village of Chalten, in Argentine Patagonia, accessed via Calafate City. Wonderful day hikes radiate out from the village, many offering views of mountain peaks such as Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. The moraine below Cerro Torre is one of the most memorable day hikes in Patagonia. Finally, consider Queenstown, New Zealand, where you can enjoy the civilized lifestyle of the city and be a few minutes drive from a number of great walks, a few hours from classics such as the Milford Track. _______________________ Sebastopol, Calif.: My sister and I (ages 55 and 58) would like to go on a 10-14 day trek in the Himalayas. We are somewhat restricted as far as dates as she is a college professor and has off the summer and most of December. We are both in good shape and can deal with pretty rustic conditions. Money is somewhat of a consideration. Can you recommend a good location and/or company to work with? Thank you. Peter Potterfield: This is similar to an earlier question, so I'll risk repeating myself: The hike to do in the Himalaya is the Everest Base Camp Trek. It's 35 miles through the greatest scenery on earth, a trip you'll never forget. Comfortable lodges now can be found along the route, and a competent Sherpa staff will make sure you are safe and comfortable during the trek, whether you're staying in the lodges or camping out higher up. Altitude is the primary consideration, but the pace is slow, only four to five hours walking a day to allow for acclimatization, so at worst most people suffer only mild headaches. If you find the altitude to be a real problem, and that can happen, you can stop and enjoy the scenery at a place like Thyangboche, at 12,000 feet, instead of going all the way to Base Camp at 17,500. But most people recover after a day or two of rest and are able to keep going. I recommend going with a competent, North America based guide service; I recommend several proven guide services in my book, Classic Hikes of the World. Experienced guides are crucial for novices on this hike as they know the difference between the usual discomfort and dangerous altitude sickness. If budget is a consideration, look for guide services that offer local guides and camp staff. _______________________ Peter Potterfield: Thanks for participating. If you more questions, or want to know more about my new book, Classic Hikes of the World, or my upcoming 20 city slide show tour of North America from Feb 5 to April 17, see classichikes.com.

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Andrew Hempstead: Hi, all. This is Andrew Hempstead and I look forward to answering your questions over the next hour. In advance of that a few quick thoughts on traveling to New Zealand that may answer general queries you have: Air New Zealand has direct flights to Auckland from LA and San Francisco. With this airline, it is often possible to include Australia in your itinerary at little or no extra cost than flying to Auckland. Other specials offered include free stops in South Pacific destinations like Fiji or Tahiti. All major car rental companies are represented in New Zealand. Often, there are no drop-off charges between cities and unlimited mileage is standard. January is summer school holidays in New Zealand and everywhere is very busy. If you're planning on traveling during this month, make reservations well in advance. Commercial campgrounds in New Zealand are called "Holiday Parks," and for good reason. Rather than offering just campsites, they come with facilities like swimming pools, communal barbeque areas, cafes, and tour booking desks, as well wide ranging of accommodations such as cabins, villas, and motel rooms. For those with their own transportation, they provide excellent value and a great way to meet locals. _______________________ Placerville, Calif.: My friend and I will be traveling with a tour group to New Zealand in September 2008. We are in great shape, love to walk, explore public parks, monuments, etc. With one free day on our own to explore in Auckland what would you suggest we NOT miss? Thank you in advance for any advice you could give us. —Denna Andrew Hempstead: Denna, if your tour includes all the major Auckland highlights, plan on spending your spare day on Waiheke Island, a short boat trip from downtown Auckland. _______________________ Cedar Falls, Iowa: My sister and I (ages 22 & 26) have booked a seven day "layover" in New Zealand while on our way to Melbourne, Australia. We arrive in Auckland on March 8 in the early morning and depart Auckland in the late afternoon on March 15. While we do want to hit some of the main New Zealand highlights, we also like to do things and visit places that the locals would so that we can get a better idea of the local culture. What places or tour stops do you recommend? Thank you for your help! —Lynne & Alissa Andrew Hempstead: Jennifer, if you're traveling extensively through the Pacific, you'll probably enjoy a break from surf and sand. With that in mind, spend a day or two in Auckland; head south to Rotorua for thermal attractions and native culture, then on to Tongariro National Park for volcanic hiking, and back up through Napier to Auckland. Renting a vehicle is your most flexible option for transport, then plan to stay in campgrounds or backpacker lodges. _______________________ Goodyear, Ariz.: On Feb. 2, 2008, my husband and I will begin a 14-day cruise from Auckland to Sydney, stopping at several New Zealand ports. My question: what can we expect of the weather, temperature and humidity wise. In the Arizona desert, temperatures of 70's and 80's mean evenings can get quite cool, requiring a light sweater. Should we expect the same in New Zealand, especially with higher humidity? Thank you. Andrew Hempstead: Temperatures in New Zealand vary greatly from one end of the country to the other. In February, you should pack a light sweater regardless of where you are stopping. If the cruise is heading to the South Island and Milford Sound, something even warmer is required. More importantly, waterproof, breathable raingear is a must. _______________________ Ft. Collins, Colo.: Our 25-year-old son will be visiting NZ for about 6 months beginning in April. Other than a visa for a more than 3-month stay, are there any work permits or other requirements for employment? Andrew Hempstead: All questions regarding visas and working in New Zealand are answered at: immigration.govt.nz. _______________________ Vancouver, Wash.: My husband and I are teachers in our 30's and this summer we are traveling around the Pacific for 8 weeks. Our second stop is Auckland from July 7th -12th. We enjoy the outdoors and adventure. We need suggestions on places to visit, things to do, where to eat and a place to stay. Considering we are traveling 8 weeks, we are trying to stay within a reasonable budget. No luxury resorts required. If you could help us out that would be great. —Jennifer Andrew Hempstead: Jennifer, it's hard to recommend specific destinations without knowing your interests, but Rotorua and nearby Tongariro are two unique places near to Auckland. As for your budget, New Zealand has a fantastic network of backpacker lodges. Most have as many or more amenities as motels, and most have private rooms. _______________________ Madison, Wis.: What airlines do you recommend for flights from Wisconsin to New Zealand? We found the 9-hour flight to Europe to be quite long. Andrew Hempstead: Air New Zealand has a website for its North American customers: airnewzealand.com. If you find longer flights uncomfortable and Business Class uncomfortably expensive, consider Air New Zealand's Pacific Premium, a step up from Economy class. _______________________ Mechanicsburg, Pa.: My husband and I are planning a trip to New Zealand and Australia in October 2009. We would appreciate any suggestions for things to do and see when we visit. Thank you. Andrew Hempstead: It is difficult to give advise on general sightseeing without knowing your interests. I'd suggest buying guidebooks to both countries and doing some research. As I've noted above, also check out Air New Zealand's airfares that offer deals to both countries for the price of one. _______________________ Columbus, Ohio: I am traveling to the North Island in mid April this year. Any advice on what to expect weather-wise? Also, our group is renting an RV for the week. Any tips on getting the best deal for the rental? Thanks! Andrew Hempstead: Weather on the North Island in April is starting to cool down. On the plus side, you'll get a good deal on a campervan and finding campsites will be easy. Dozens of Auckland companies rent campervans, but I'd stick to the larger companies such as Britz and Maui. _______________________ Encinitas, Calif.: Is it safe to assume that Air New Zealand consistently has the best travel deals between the U.S. and New Zealand, or are there other airlines that offer competitive deals? (I'm interested in going in the latter part of August for about three weeks.) Andrew Hempstead: Air New Zealand is the only airline flying in from the U.S. You can book through United, but the flight will be on a Air New Zealand plane. As for flights—start looking today. Click on the Web Specials page at the U.S. link on airnewzealand.com to get an idea of flight costs. _______________________ Golden, Colo.: We're planning to take the whole month of March to rent a car in ChristChurch and tour the South Island. We don't plan to book lodging ahead of time so that we can be flexible and spend more or less time in certain areas. Would it be helpful to take a laptop along? Thanks. Andrew Hempstead: I assume you are taking a laptop for Internet access? If so, know that the South Island is not as connected as the north. On the other hand, every visitor center has a computer with public Internet access. _______________________ Victoria, Tex.: My husband and I land in Christchurch on Feb. 24, take the Tranz Alpine Train the next day, and then pick up our campervan and head out on Feb. 26. We have the van rented for the next 10 days. What would be you plan of attack to see the most and best of the South Island? Andrew Hempstead: Ten days is enough time to circumnavigate the South Island, looping through Nelson to Abel Tasman National Park, then down the west coast to Queenstown, across to Dunedin and back up to Christchurch. _______________________ Livermore, Calif.: We have two kids that will be 8 and 6 this Christmas. Are they old enough to take advantage of all the adventure New Zealand has to offer. They just did a great job of traveling through Costa Rica for a two-week Christmas vacation this year but I'm not sure how strenuouse the Milford Trek is? Are there places for beginner kyakers to have fun? Because it is so expensive to get to New Zealand, I'm wondering if we should wait until the kids are a little older? If they are old enough, I also have the all encompassing question of what we should do and how to keep it economical? Thanks, Kari Andrew Hempstead: Kari, your children are probably a little young to enjoy the commercialized adventures New Zealand is famous for, but the country itself is very kid-friendly and there are shorter hikes everywhere, and lots of places to try kayaking, such as Abel Tasman National Park. Regarding costs, one excellent way to cut costs without cutting the fun is to stay in holiday parks (campgrounds). _______________________ Madison, Wis.: We are recently retired so our time in New Zealand is not limited by work schedule, length of trip, or kids, just money, physical exertion, and running out of interest in the trip. We will be traveling on our own, but may be interested in tours of a few days. What do you recommend as to the length of time to visit the north and south islands at a relaxed pace? Andrew Hempstead: I'd suggest six weeks, split equally between the two islands. Rather than traveling the entire time, plan on spending a full week somewhere to immerse yourself in the "real" New Zealand, even if it's a small town. _______________________ Pittsboro, N.C.: My wife and I are planning our itinerary for a campervan tour of NZ in Feb-Mar. We have 10 days on the S. Island and will travel from Picton to Queenstown along the West coast. If we drive directly from Q'town to Christchurch (assuming we omit Dunedin), should we take the inland route OR go East and drive up along the coast? I.e., what are the trade-offs in scenery and driveabilty between the two routes? Thanks! Andrew Hempstead: Goldfields or wildlife? The inland route is dotted with old goldrush towns whle the coastal Catlins (between Dunedin and Christchurch) is one of the better places in New Zealand for wildlife viewing. _______________________ Romeoville, Ill.: We plan to rent an RV and tour both the North and South Islands for about a month. Should we divide the time between the islands 50/50 or is there more to see and do on the South Island? Do we need reservations for the ferry that would take us between the two islands? We plan to be there in February/March 2009. Andrew Hempstead: 50/50 is an ideal split for general sightseeing. The South Island is renowned for "outdoorsy" pursuits, but the North Island's beaches, volcanoes, and national parks are equally appealing to many. I would book the ferry as far in advance as possible for a summer crossing. There are cheaper fare levels available for booking within New Zealand, but if the "level" has sold out, and so have higher fares, you'll miss out all together. _______________________ Austin, Tex.: How much of a problem is driving in winter? My husband and I are planning an August, 2008, visit to New Zealand. We are going to focus most of our time on the north island, and the northern portions of the south island—Christchurch is about as far south as we are thinking of. We are concerned that road conditions farther south would make our driving dangerous. What are your thoughts on winter-season travel? Andrew Hempstead: Mountain roads are always narrow and generally icy in winter, especially on the South Island. The coastal route between Picton and Christchurch is at sea level and rarely ices over. _______________________ Mena, Ariz.: Looking for the best deals on roundtrip flights to NZ. We plan on making a 3-6 month visit starting in late Nov. or early Dec. '08 departing from LAX, and arriving in Auckland. Could you please tell me the best online airline deals? And how far in advance the least inexpensive tickets might be obtained? Cheers, Mark Andrew Hempstead: Air New Zealand has some good deals year-round. Start checking their web specials page. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: My wife and I plan to visit New Zealand over the Christmas-New Year break at the end of this year. I understand that reservations at hotels and on ferries and buses are very difficult to get because of heavy bookings, and that tours are a better bet because they book space long in advance. Do you agree? And if you favor taking a tour, do you know of a reliable firm that puts together individualized air/bus/train/hotel packages? Andrew Hempstead: Tours do indeed guarantee your travel arrangements run smoothly, but as it sounds like you're already planning your trip, you should have no problems making bookings this far in advance for next Christmas. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Hello from freezing cold Chi-Town! My boyfriend and I (he's 36 and I'm 45) are now anxiously awaiting our Feb. 15th-29th trip to New Zealand's South Island. Because we only have 11 full days and we are flying in to Christchurch and out of Queenstown, we found that we must make a choice between making our way from Arthur's Pass to Queenstown for 2 nights in either the Mount Cook/Lake Pukaki area or the Fox/Franz Josef Glaciers and then Wanaka area. Although they are geographically located next to each other, there is no pass to travel between the two areas. We love dramatic mountain lake scenery and moderate half-day long hikes. We DON'T love hordes of tourists but realize that both spots will have them. We know that a Heli-hike on Fox or Franz Josef Glacier is the best option there. If we go the West Coast glacier route, we were considering the heli-hike and then perhaps the "Siberian Experience" the following day. We know that's packing a lot into only 2 days. Suggestions would be greatly appreciated! —Lauren and Pete in Chicago Andrew Hempstead: Yes, lots in two days for travel between Christchurch and Queenstown. Firstly, the Siberia Experience is one of the better "packaged" wilderness experiences in New Zealand—a must-do. I would plan the west coast drive rather Mount Cook for a couple of reasons—you'll see lots of other mountains around Queenstown, Arthur's Pass, and driving across Haast Pass. The heli-hike is very weather dependant, but in many ways, walking up to the glacier on an overcast day (and along its edge for experienced hikers) is just as interesting. The highway down the west coast is very slow going—30 miles per hour is average—so plan appropriately. Maybe spend one day less in Queenstown... _______________________ Encinitas, Calif.: As a traveler who has been to NZ 7 times in the years past, what sort of changes would I see in the South Island as compared to what was seen in 1988? Andrew Hempstead: Obviously the scenery has changed little in the last couple of decades, but the local tourism infrastructure has transformed itself into one of the world's best on every level—from backpacker lodges that are more like hotels, to restaurants serving super-creative foods, to organized tours that cover every inch of the country. The wine industry in the South Island has also boomed. In many cases, its more than just about the wine, but the wineries promote themselves as destinations, with accommodations, restaurants, and walking trails. _______________________ Kenosha, Wis.: My wife and I will be traveling in New Zealand in March. How long does it take to drive from Christchurch to the ferry terminal in Picton, taking into consideration we have to drop a car off at the terminal? There is a ferry leaving at 1:15pm. Thank you, Pat and Lynda Andrew Hempstead: Like elsewhere in New Zealand, you should allow a lot longer than the map suggests. Christchurch to Picton is around 120 miles, but allow at least three hours driving time. Vehicle drop-off at the ferry is quick and well organized. If possible I'd recommend leaving the night before and staying overnight along the way at Kaikoura (whale-watching, good seafood, seal colonies, and memorable accommodations like Hapuku Lodge), one of my favorite places in New Zealand. _______________________ Northville, Mich.: My wife and I will be touring New Zealand from Feb 1st-Feb 23rd. What temperatures ranges can we expect? Andrew Hempstead: Temperatures in New Zealand vary greatly from one end of the country to the other. Auckland in February sees many days in the 70s and 80s, while the South Island is at least 10 degrees cooler. Also note: Temperatures in New Zealand are always given in Celsius. Unless you can do the conversion in your head, I'd recommend carrying a small chart so you can quickly see the Fahrenheit equivalent. _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Hi. What is the best time of year to take my children over for a visit? Either Christmas break for two weeks or July-Aug for two weeks? I would like to spend a week in Northern New Zealand, visiting relatives, and a week in Sydney/GBR. Is it doable in just 2 weeks? Andrew Hempstead: The time you decide to visit New Zealand depends on your interests. Late December through January is summer break in New Zealand. If you can book well in advance and are prepared for higher prices, this is a wonderful time of year to visit. The skiing and snowboarding is great in July and August, but you wouldn't be able to enjoy many of the other outdoor activities the country is known for. _______________________ Puyallup, Wash.: I am a long distance hiker. Are there any tramps like the Pacific Crest trail there. What I am interested in is: 1-4 week trips for 2-4 people. There would be resupply places and/or lodging every 4-7 days. I like to plan my own backpacking trips, but a website of a backing tour guide might be helpful. Thanks, Sharon Andrew Hempstead: New Zealand has no trails similar to the Pacific Crest in length. Fiordland National Park has a half-dozen long-distance trails (the 50-mile Dusky Track is considered the most challenging), many of which link up or can be hiked in combination. _______________________ Sanford, Fla.: My husband (57) and I (53) have traveled all over the world. We love to hike and have wanted to hike the Milford Trek for years. Is it a difficult hike? What are the accomodations (don't particularly want to camp)? And what month is ideal? Thank you, Maureen Andrew Hempstead: Due to its popularity, access to the Milford Track is restricted to 40 hikers each day. Additionally—and luckily for you—camping is prohibited. Instead, hikers are required to stay in the three huts en route, making it a four-day trip. Details at doc.govt.nz. A number of companies such as Ultimate Hikes offer guided walking trips. These are more expensive, with guests staying in upscale lodges along the trail (these lodges are for hikers on guided walks only). If you have the time, I'd suggest hiking the Milford Track, but also walking one of the less-famous, less-crowded, but equally scenic trails. For its scenery alone, the Routeburn Track is my favorite of these. Regardless of which track you walk, it's impossible not to be impressed with the hiking infrastructure in this part of the South Island. The government brochures (available through the website doc.govt.nz) are very detailed, huts are along most trails, shuttle buses buzz between trailheads, and companies such as Info&Track (infotrack.co.nz) in Queenstown bring all the elements together. Although they can't control the weather... _______________________ Calgary, Alberta, Canada: What is the best way to see the highlights (the must-dos) of New Zealand in 3-4 weeks without spending most of your time driving/navigating? Andrew Hempstead: I would suggest renting a vehicle in Auckland and dropping it off in Christchurch, then flying one way back to Auckland for your return flight home. If you are planning to travel in fall (March through May), reverse this itinerary so that you are in the South Island during the beginning of your trip, when the weather is warmer. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: My travel girlfriends and I are planning on going to NZ later in the year. What time would you suggest when we could get a good deal on flight and accommodations? Also, what areas would you suggest we visit? We plan on going for about 1-2 weeks. Thank you. Andrew Hempstead: December is the start of high season. Airfares are less expensive in November, and this time of year (spring) is warm enough for short sleeves yet crowds are minimal. Allow one week to drive around each island. The North Island is more varied than the South, so I'd stick to the North for a short trip. _______________________ Mitchellville, Md.: We are attending our niece's wedding in Australia Sept 27 and plan to leave from Brisbane to New Zealand on Sept. 30. We would like to spend 10 days-2 weeks in New Zealand. There will be 4 adults. Can you recommend the best way to proceed: organized tour; tour on our own (preferred); we are U.S. and don't want to drive but one is from England who could be the driver. Ages 59-62. Andrew Hempstead: It is difficult to "tour on your own" without driving (the bus system is excellent, but not as practical as driving). Roads on the South Island are more demanding than the north, and distances are greater. How about joining a guided tour through the South Island and renting a vehicle to get around the North? _______________________ Papillion, Neb.: What exactly are glow worms? Andrew Hempstead: Glow worms are larva that hang from the ceiling of caves (Waitomo is best known). Their tails glow to attract small insects, which are trapped and eaten. _______________________ Minneapolis, Minn. : Are there any places on either island to go on a free glow worm tour? Also, where are some places to purchase afforadle, but authentic, Moari art? Andrew Hempstead: A few places, such as Hokitika, have small glow worm caves, but, for the price of a lunch, the caves at Waitomo are far superior. _______________________ Louisville, Ky.: My spouse and I both in our late 50's have shared interests and activities for our Fall trip to N.Z.. However we do have some separate interests. I am a weaver and would like to meet other weavers and maybe visit a sheep farm. My husband is interested in a bike tour. Are there places to contact to meet these interests? Andrew Hempstead: Most towns have weaving clubs. The best way to find out about these would be to inquire at local visitor centers. Regarding bike tours, not sure if you mean bicycles or motorbikes, but check bikenz.org.nz for the former. _______________________ Niceville, Fla.: My husband and I will travel to NZ at the end of Feb. for a business meeting in Auckland and then plan to explore the country for 3 weeks. We already have our round-trip tickets between the US and Auckland. In trying to sort out an in-country itinerary, we are confused by the many various opinions on how to travel between the North & South islands. Rent a car for just a few days on NI, then fly to SI? Fly to the south end of SI, then drive back north? I know there isn't one best answer for everyone, but is there really a time or economic advantage of one direction over the other? Also, are domestic NZ air tickets cheaper to buy from the US before we leave, or in NZ after we get there? Andrew Hempstead: Airline tickets can be bought more cheaply in New Zealand. One way to do this without actually being in the country is to go the Air New Zealand website and click on the New Zealand site, and by default you'll be offered different fare levels than on the U.S. site. I'd suggest renting one vehicle for the entire trip. Rental car companies are based at both ferry terminals, so you leave your vehicle in Wellington and pick another up in Picton. This process runs very smoothly, saves you money, and keeps all vehicles on their island of origin. The car company does not need to know you're changing vehicles more than a day or so ahead of time, so your original booking should be for one block of time. _______________________ Cincinnati, Ohio: The scenery in The Lord of the Rings trilogy was spectacular. How do I find the best tour/tour guide to show me some of those sites, and how much money should I plan to spend doing such a tour? Andrew Hempstead: Once you arrive in Queenstown, you will be inundated by "Lord" tours. Ian Brodie has authored a book on the film sites, but it may only be available in New Zealand. _______________________ Bonita Springs, Fla.: What is the best time of year for a month-long independent "tour" of the country. My wife and I are 65, have traveled extensively in Australia, but have never neen to New Zealand. Thanks. Andrew Hempstead: November and March are my favorite times of year to visit New Zealand. _______________________ Louisville, Ky.: We plan to be in N.Z. in Sept/Oct for about two weeks. Should we try to see both the North and South Islands in that time frame? Is renting a car the best way to get around? Are bed and breakfast places readily available? Andrew Hempstead: One week on each island is ideal. Renting a car is ideal, but do make sure to allow extra time for the country's winding roads. Bed and breakfasts are very popular in New Zealand. The best are detailed in my own guidebook, or purchase the New Zealand Bed and Breakfast Guide. _______________________ Simpsonville, S.C.: I will be touring NZ in October 2008. What are the best wines to try? I am on a limited budget, 68-years-old, and interested in the history, particularly during WWII. Do you have a recommendation for a good museum? Andrew Hempstead: Tastes vary, but wines from the Martinborough and Otago regions are highly under-rated and both very enjoyable areas places to visit. The Museum of New Zealand (Wellington) should not be missed. _______________________ Springfield, Ore.: My husband and I are planning to go to New Zealand this fall or next spring. Can you please tell us which is the better time to travel with specific regard to cost of air fare and lodging, fewest travelers, and things to do. For both spring and fall, please give the dates defining "low season" when the best rates are available. Thank you very much, Betsy Andrew Hempstead: Both times of year are shoulder season and airfares, crowds, etc, equal. November and March are my favorite months for travel, although the ocean is too cool for swimming in November. You also may want to avoid Easter, which is busy everywhere. _______________________ Maumelle, Ark.: What adventure companies do you recommend for N.Z.? I'm particularly interested in hiking/trekking. Andrew Hempstead: I traveled with Hiking New Zealand and had a wonderful trip. This company is one of the original adventure companies in New Zealand. Website is nzsafaris.co.nz. _______________________ Andrew Hempstead: I hope my answers help in planning your travels. New Zealand is one of my favorite places in the world and I'm sure you will enjoy the country as much as I always do. Happy Trails, Andrew

CLOSE TO HOME CALIFORNIA Sonoma Valley Beltane Ranch Just north of the town of Sonoma, in Glen Ellen, Beltane Ranch's 105 acres are filled with fruit trees, vegetable and flower gardens, a vineyard that sells grapes to nearby winemakers, and an olive orchard yielding oil that guests snap up for $15 a bottle. No wonder, then, that L.L. Bean and Victoria's Secret have shot their catalogs here: The location is downright idyllic. The yellow, gingerbread-trimmed lodge features five rooms and a two-story wraparound porch. The best rooms are on the second floor, where hammocks and porch swings overlook the vineyard and Sonoma Mountain beyond. (Ask for Room 1, which has a wood-burning stove and a separate sitting room.) Alexa Wood is Beltane Ranch's third-generation owner. Her great-aunt and great-uncle bought the property in 1936 to raise cattle, sheep, and turkeys. Breakfast, which may include sweet-potato latkes or buttermilk pancakes with homemade raspberry syrup, is made with ingredients from the gardens. Second helpings are basically mandatory. You can burn off extra calories on the property's tennis court (the front desk loans out rackets and balls) and by exploring the 20-plus wineries within a five-mile radius. 707/996-6501, beltaneranch.com, from $150, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 1 Napa Valley Hideaway Cottages For more than 100 years, people have flocked to Calistoga for its natural hot springs and mineral-rich waters, which have been said to cure everything from arthritis to chronic fatigue syndrome. The stucco bungalows at Hideaway Cottages were built in the 1920s and '40s to cater to wellness seekers and still serve as a home base for such guests today. Scattered on two and a half acres planted with sycamores, elms, and the oldest cork oak tree in the Napa Valley, the 17 cottages are all configured differently—some have a sitting room in addition to a bedroom, a bathroom, and a kitchen; others have a private patio—but all are located a few steps from a swimming pool and a hot tub filled with Calistoga's legendary water. The property is just two blocks from Calistoga's quaint main street, and a short stroll from the 56-year-old Dr. Wilkinson's Hot Springs Resort (owned by the same family as the Hideaway Cottages). There, for $129, guests can get The Works: a soak in a mineral mud bath, a lavender mineral whirlpool bath, time in the steam room, a blanket wrap, and a 30-minute almond-oil massage. 707/942-4108, hideawaycottages.com, from $185, no guests under 18. Closed December and January. Photos 1 of 1 FLORIDA Miami The Loft Hotel Lisa and Pascal Nicolle opened their first South Beach hotel in 1992 when they bought an apartment complex at Collins Avenue and 14th Street and transformed it into the Villa Paradiso. In 2001, the Nicolles purchased a second apartment complex five blocks south and converted it into The Loft Hotel, a younger, hipper sibling. Located in the midst of the Collins Avenue action, the Loft's 20 apartments sit in a two-story line perpendicular to the street (the farthest—and quietest—rooms are the highest-numbered ones). Even the rooms near Collins seem serene on the inside, however, with tile or blond-wood floors and wrought-iron headboards. All have full kitchens and cute breakfast nooks with a round café table. Throughout, Lisa has placed bouquets of dried milky-white flowers that she and Pascal brought back from France. "Sometimes people call up and want to know which hotel is better," Lisa says. "How do you choose? It's like having two kids! I say the Villa is a little more Key West, while at the Loft I feel like I need to put on lipstick." 952 Collins Ave., 305/534-2244, thelofthotel.com, from $90. MEXICO Tulum Amansala's Casa Magna In the mid-1970s, Colombian drug kingpin Pablo Escobar built two 14,000-square-foot houses at the southern end of Tulum. The buildings were abandoned after Escobar died in 1993, and nature—in the form of hurricanes and vegetation—began to reclaim them. They caught the eye of Melissa Perlman, one of the owners of the Amansala resort up the beach. She opened Casa Magna in 1996, after transforming the concrete houses into 22 enormous, minimally furnished guest rooms. The structures retain a hint of bunker flavor, but that's offset by vibrant orange and pink fabrics and pillows in the chic lounging areas, beds draped with mosquito netting, and decorative mosaics that liven up the bathrooms. Many Casa Magna guests choose to participate in the Bikini Boot Camp program, a combination of exercise, yoga, and massage that became popular at the original Amansala property. The on-site restaurant emphasizes healthy choices such as grilled fish and fresh fruit. 011-52/1-998-185-7428, amansala.com, from $180. Photos 1 of 2 COSTA RICA Santa Teresa Hotel Milarepa It's easy to see why Leonardo DiCaprio stayed here with his girlfriend—the hotel has only four rooms, which guarantees privacy. Each bungalow is filled with Balinese teak furniture, including intricately carved armoires and antique four-poster beds. At night, guests are encouraged to open all the windows—and one wall of doors that lead to a private veranda—to let in the warm breezes. In the morning, noise from howler monkeys in the trees may provide a comic wake-up call. The bathrooms are private and semi-alfresco: The toilet and sink are under the roof's eaves, but the shower is open to the sky. A seven-table restaurant looks out over the pool, past a well-trimmed lawn, and down to the beach where there's a bamboo massage hut ($65 for an hour). The American chef, James Kelly, draws from Asian influences and makes great use of local seafood. He also plays another role: owner Caroline Marot's fiancé. 011-506/640-0023, milarepahotel.com, from $185, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 4 CARIBBEAN St. Lucia Villa Beach Cottages The hour and a half ride from St. Lucia's international airport to the Villa Beach Cottages in a standard taxi is $70, but you'll save $10 if you let one of the Villa Beach drivers do the honors. He or she will also chat you up and buy you a cold Piton—St. Lucia's local brew—along the way. The special treatment is one of the reasons why owner Colin Hunte's 20 suites welcome so many repeat guests, some having visited regularly for decades. The operation dates to 1958, when Hunte's grandfather bought two former U.S. naval barracks and had them moved to a 40-foot-wide beach on the island's northwestern tip. New buildings have gone up since Colin took over 18 years ago, but he's tried to keep the feel of the originals, incorporating cathedral ceilings, jalousie shutters, and gingerbread woodwork. Most rentals have a private patio with ocean views (on a clear day you can spot Martinique). When you get hungry, head next door to The Wharf, which makes an exemplary roti, the spicy Jamaican wrap filled with vegetables, chicken, or beef. For true relaxation, hit one of the hammocks slung at the water's edge and drift off to the sounds of the waves crashing. 758/450-2884, villabeachcottages.com, from $190. Photos 1 of 2 Jamaica Rockhouse Hotel Seclusion isn't easy to come by in the party town of Negril, but that's exactly what Rockhouse delivers, primarily to hip couples and families looking to avoid a spring-break experience. Rockhouse's rounded thatched villas are strung atop a low cliff carved with stairs that lead to the warm waters of Pristine Cove. The 20 private units peeking out of the jungle, right at the cliff's edge, start at $325 in winter, but the long buildings set a bit farther back are easier to pull off. Five studios with sea views ($150) and nine standard rooms with garden views ($125) all have minibars, safes, A/C, mosquito netting around four-poster beds, and furniture constructed from local timber. Guests can chill out at the 60-foot infinity pool, take yoga classes, or stroll along the property's serpentine paths and stepping stones, which inevitably lead to quiet nooks, isolated beach chairs, and what most people say are the best sunset views in Jamaica. 876/957-4373, rockhousehotel.com, from $125. Photos 1 of 2 Andros Island, Bahamas Seascape Inn Most of Andros Island is uninhabitable marshland, choked by mangroves and shot through with so many lakes and channels that from the air it looks like a doily. The Seascape Inn, on Andros Island's Mangrove Cay, is within minutes of a 120-mile-long barrier reef (the third largest in the world), making it perfect for diving, fishing, or just dropping out for a week. Each of the property's five cabanas has a small deck facing the white-sand beach. Pass the hours bonefishing from the flats in front of your bungalow (catch and release), exploring the reef by kayak, or pedaling along Mangrove Cay's lone road (bikes and kayaks are free for guests). You'll typically find Brooklyn-born hosts Mickey and Joan McGowan at the inn's bar and restaurant; gracious and friendly, they're clearly thrilled with their choice to move to the Bahamas 12 years ago. Joan likes to garden and bake, whipping up muffins and biscuits at dawn and tempting desserts—sometimes pies made with coconuts from the yard—in the afternoon. 242/369-0342, seascapeinn.com, from $110, continental breakfast included. Photos 1 of 1 CLASSIC EUROPE FRANCE Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, French Riviera Les Deux Frères Go up—past the crowds, past the noise—to the tiny cliff-top village of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Stop to gasp at the panorama from the tiny town square, and notice the lovely dining terrace to your right. It's attached to the restaurant of the intimate Les Deux Frères, in a 19th-century stone building that was once a school. A mahogany bar fills the lobby; a narrow staircase leads up to the nine small, pretty rooms. Each has a name indicating its theme: Provençal, African, Marine, and so on. Views range from lovely to stupendous; depending on your room's orientation, you might look out on the town square, the rugged hills, or—if you get the full frontal—the cliffs, the sea, and, in the distance, Monaco. 1 Place des Deux Frères, 011-33/4-93-28-99-00, lesdeuxfreres.com, from $148. Photos 1 of 2 Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, Provence Hotel de l'Atelier Spare yourself the agony of trying to find high-season lodgings in Avignon—there's a great little hotel across the river in Villeneuve, just a five-minute bus ride from the City of Popes. Each of the 23 rooms is a different shape and size—the building was built in the 16th century as a silk workshop—and there are exposed beams and stone walls, as well as painted niches, art deco dressers, Chinese end tables, and antique photography. A few rooms look a bit like they're from a 1940s movie set. The garden terrace is livened up with modern sculptures; hallways showcase paintings by local artists. The new owners are redoing a couple of rooms in Provençal style—let's hope their taste is as refined as that of their predecessors. 5 rue de la Foire, 011-33/4-90-25-01-84, hoteldelatelier.com, from $83. Photos 1 of 3 ITALY Monte San Savino, Tuscany Castello di Gargonza On the crest of a mountain enveloped by forest sits a fairy-tale castle, with a 13th-century hamlet curled around the base of a crenellated tower. The hilltop village is Gargonza, fought over for centuries by the Florentines and Sienese, host to an exiled Dante in the early 1300s—and now entirely for rent. Gargonza's 35 houses, which like the castle are built of pale stone, serve as apartments, and most feature working fireplaces, kitchenettes, and 17th-century-style furnishings. There are also eight simple rooms (no kitchens or fireplaces). Converting the place into lodging for tourists was the only way Count Roberto Guicciardini—whose ancestors have been lords of the castle since 1700—could save the decaying village after the last of its farmers and artisans abandoned Gargonza in the 1960s. The central courtyard, with an old well and geraniums spilling from arcaded balconies, is a sort of open-air living room for guests. Likewise, the old olive-press building functions these days as a common room with sofas, a TV, and the breakfast buffet. Just outside the town's medieval walls is a swimming pool surrounded by fragrant rosemary and olive and cypress trees, and the excellent restaurant. Owner Neri Guicciardini, one of the count's sons, adds innovative flair to Tuscan classics. West of Monte San Savino, less than a mile off the road between Arezzo and Siena, 011-39/0575-847-021, gargonza.it, from $170; from $230 in B&B and apartment; from $1,091 weekly apartment rentals. Photos 1 of 3 Positano, Amalfi Coast Albergo California Maria Cinque makes a point of chatting with every one of her guests. She's particularly delighted to meet Americans, as she and her husband, Antonio, lived in the Bronx for nine years. They returned to Italy in 1974 to run a family hotel a five minutes' walk from the center of Positano—and to teach their children "what it means to be Italian," in Maria's words. Six of the 15 guest rooms are in the original 1777 Palazzo Bruno, including four upstairs rooms with 18th-century ceiling frescoes. Many regulars prefer ground-floor rooms 51 to 55, however, because they open directly onto the magnificent, long entrance terrace and enjoy postcard views of Positano framed by ivy trailing off the shady trellis. Each of the California's rooms is spacious and seems even more so due to the minimal furnishings. All guests have access to the terrace, and at sunset small groups gather there to sip wine, plan the next day, and pinch themselves, realizing that they've got the same view as the chichi Le Sirenuse hotel down the street for one third of the price. Via Cristoforo Colombo 141, Positano, 011-39/089-875-382, hotelcaliforniapositano.com, from $223, breakfast included. Closed mid-November to mid-March. Photos 1 of 1 Siracusa, Sicily Hotel Gutkowski The hotel with the best combination of style and value in all of Sicily is on a coastal road in Siracusa's historic center of Ortigia. Gutkowski's owner, Paola Pretsch, converted a pair of powder-blue houses overlooking the Mediterranean into a 25-room hotel. She decorated the properties along minimalist lines, enhanced by traditional touches, with mod furnishings near old stone doorways. In the main building, the rooms with direct sea views are 3, 4, 8, 9, and 15—the last reached via a terrace. In the annex up the road, the views are best from second-floor rooms 24 to 26. (From the first floor, only the sea horizon is visible above stone fortifications across the road.) The scrumptious breakfast consists of homemade cakes and cookies, fruits and cheeses, organic marmalades and honey, and fresh-squeezed orange juice. Lungomare Vittorini 26, 011-39/0931-465-861, guthotel.it, from $163. Photos 1 of 1 ENGLAND Penzance, Cornwall Mount Haven Hotel Orange Trevillion was drawn to Penzance, at the west end of Cornwall, because of the town's proximity to St. Michael's Mount, an ancient craggy island that looks a lot like a lopsided volcano. "It's a sacred place," says Trevillion, an eccentric with carrot-colored hair (of course) who believes that four of the Earth's energy lines come together there. Formerly the site of a Benedictine priory and rumored to have once been home to a giant, the island got its name when a fisherman claimed to have seen the archangel Michael there many years ago. Trevillion and her partners bought Mount Haven in 2001. They knocked down walls and reconfigured the old coach house to maximize views of St. Michael's Mount and the ocean. Most of the 18 rooms look out on the water. They have a distinctly Asian feel, with silk bedspreads and throw pillows covered in embroidered fabrics from Trevillion's frequent trips to India. (Room 6 is the quietest, away from both the front desk and the terrace.) Even the restaurant—where many dishes are flavored with curry and lemongrass—has views of the mount from one end. But the best seats are on the terrace: You can see the island rising steeply out of the water, with a medieval castle on its tip-top. (Owned by The National Trust, the castle is open to the public.) At low tide, when people stroll across a granite causeway to visit, it appears as if they're walking on water. Farther west beyond Mounts Bay and Penzance—the city made famous by Gilbert and Sullivan—is Land's End. 011-44/173-671-0249, mounthaven.co.uk, from $88, breakfast included. Photos 1 of 2 This story quotes starting rates for a one-night stay in a double room during low season.