• Odessa, Texas



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    Odessa is a city in and the county seat of Ector County, Texas, United States. It is located primarily in Ector County, although a small section of the city extends into Midland County. Odessa's population was 114,428 at the 2020 census, making it the 28th-most populous city in Texas;It is the principal city of the Odessa metropolitan statistical area, which includes all of Ector County. The metropolitan area is also a component of the larger Midland–Odessa combined statistical area, which had a 2010 census population of 278,801; a recent report from the United States Census Bureau estimates that the combined population as of July 2015 is 320,513. In 2014, Forbes magazine ranked Odessa as the third-fastest-growing small city in the United States. In 1948 Odessa was also the home of First Lady Barbara Bush, and the onetime home of former Presidents George H. W. Bush and George W. Bush. Former President George H.W. Bush has been quoted as saying "At Odessa we became Texans and proud of it."
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    Venturing Into West Texas

    Panoramic sunsets and whimsical doll museums. Paranormal phenomena and 1940s-era motels. High art and cowboy kitsch. Across the expanses of Big Bend Country, at Texas's extreme southwestern border, attractions run from oddball to sophisticated, quaint to amazing. Mining and ranching towns have transformed themselves into tourist destinations, each locale working its own little niche. Meanwhile, Big Bend National Park, the main draw, needs no gimmick. As the Rio Grande turns east, rough desert converges with mountains, creating a landscape that'd make a giant feel small, an egoist insignificant. Just remember that this kind of isolation doesn't come easy. Marathon, the first stop on this road trip, is a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the nearest airport, Midland International. And Midland International isn't what anyone would call a hub. Day one: Midland to Marathon The initial part of the drive from the airport to Marathon is, in a word, hideous. On either side of the road, barbed wire encloses flat oil fields that stretch to the horizon. Only a belch of smoke from the occasional refinery breaks the monotony. Then, somewhere around Fort Stockton, everything changes. The rusty pumps and industrial wasteland disappear in favor of the desert hills and valleys of Big Bend Country. Cactus flowers bloom along the highway and roadrunners periodically scurry across the road. As it materializes in the distance, the tiny town of Marathon (the last syllable rhymes with "sun") looks like nothing more than a few feed stores and mobile homes. But as you arrive in the center, its nature becomes apparent. Upscale shops and galleries line the main street, most in adobe buildings with well-tended gardens. There's even a day spa. A leisurely afternoon helps me adjust to the slow pace of Big Bend Country. When I ask someone to name the most popular entertainments, he says, "Sunset watching and stargazing." I poke about in the shops and galleries, chitchat with locals and other visitors. The name Texas comes from the Spanish word tejas, meaning friend. Although welcome, misanthropes and recluses may find themselves uncomfortable. Two Marathon hotels are attractions in their own right. Opened in 1927 by a prosperous banker, the luxurious Gage Hotel quickly became the region's social epicenter. It eventually fell into disrepair, but a lush 1992 restoration returned the brick-and-adobe structure to its former glory. On any given night, all of Marathon's visitors and quite a few locals gather in the elegant bar and courtyard. Just west of town on I-90, the less expensive Marathon Motel & RV Park has a vintage 1940s ambience, with its original neon sign and windmill. Postcards and posters sold across Big Bend Country feature the sign, which boasts that the rooms have TVs. From a small wooden building on the premises, the owner also operates what is pretty much the only radio station available out here (100.1 FM). When I knock on the door, the DJ/desk clerk invites me inside the booth for a tour and offers to take my requests. The motel's adobe courtyard has a fireplace and a shrine to the Virgin Mary; it's a great place to enjoy the sunsets, which are straight out of a Technicolor Western. Afterward, I head back to the Gage for dinner, drinks, and, indeed, stargazing. Day two: Marathon to Terlingua The drive to Big Bend National Park takes about 45 minutes; the entrance is nothing more than a small gate, usually unattended. (Park headquarters is at Panther Junction, another 30 minutes' drive.) Once inside the gate, most evidence of civilization vanishes. Gone are the fences and livestock, leaving only the brutal desert and distant mountains and mesas. Vultures circle overhead, but the cactus flowers that splash the land in yellow and purple somehow make them less intimidating. The speed limit drops to 45 mph, and I follow it. I'm tempted to go faster, but driving at lower speeds prevents pollution, and gives me a chance to stop for the two coyotes that dash in front of my car. The park teems with wildlife, and if you don't see a coyote, you'll likely see a deer or a javelina (also called a peccary). Though they're plump and pig-like, javelinas aren't pigs; park rangers insist they're only distantly related. Native only to the American Southwest, these non-pigs inhabit every corner of the park, moving about in groups and eating prickly pears. They're the mammals most often spotted by visitors. Just don't approach: They smell mighty bad. The 801,163-acre park can't be seen in a day, so I choose to explore the green and mountainous Chisos Basin. Its temperatures tend to be moderate and its trails well maintained, and it's home to the only full-service restaurant in the park. The Basin's twisty mountain roads (with the prerequisite daunting precipices) mark the beginning of bear and mountain lion country, but the map assures me that sightings are rare and attacks rarer. I take the medium-level Window Trail hike, which winds into the basin and affords utterly gorgeous views of the mountains, the desert, and waterfalls caused by recent rains. In the midafternoon, I drive into Terlingua, historic ghost town and self-styled chili capital of the world, famous for an annual cook-off. Skip the newer part of town, with its souvenir stands and river outfitters, and drive to the ghost town proper. Its squat stone buildings are on the side of a hill a few miles up the road. Most have been restored by artists and other eccentrics. Walking around the old mining village is encouraged, but signs warn you not to disturb the many private residences. Public buildings include the former jail (converted into restrooms), a partially renovated church, and an upscale gallery. My favorite spot is the peaceful, crumbling cemetery, where rocky graves and makeshift crosses memorialize doomed fortune hunters. If you have a yen to shop, the Terlingua Trading Company sells souvenirs to fit every budget--from small carved crosses ($6) to unassuming woven baskets ($600). After carefully putting down the basket, I wonder if some of the adventure tourists milling around might have more cash than their looks imply. Day three: Terlingua to Marfa Marfa, the ranchers' town made famous by the 1956 movieGiant, attracts visitors on three fronts. It has the James Dean connection (he lived here during filming). The town also has the Marfa Mystery Lights, unexplained colored lights that appear outside of town. Then there's the art: Marfa is home to one of the world's largest private art installations. After a quick stop for coffee at the Marfa Book Company, I arrive in time for the Chinati Foundation tour. Big-shot minimalist artist Donald Judd set up the Chinati in 1986 so he and select cronies could show large-scale, permanent works. He chose an old cavalry base for the cheap land, cavernous buildings, and lovely vistas. Judd created big aluminum boxes and laid them out in rows, while his friend Dan Flavin made fluorescent-light displays. The Chinati can only be seen via guided tours Wednesday through Sunday. Part 1 starts at 10 a.m. and lasts for a couple of hours. After a lunch break, Part 2 begins at 2 p.m. Good shoes, sunglasses, and water are recommended; the walks between buildings are long. Minimalist art isn't for everyone. I like it rather than love it, and when the effusive praise of aluminum boxes becomes too much, I can at least admire Judd's ambition and the enthusiasm of the art scenesters who make the pilgrimage. Back in town, I peek in the lobby of the Hotel Paisano, decorated with enough animal heads and leather furniture to make a rancher proud. It's where the cast of Giant, including James Dean, Rock Hudson, and Elizabeth Taylor, stayed during filming. The movie is perpetually screened in the lobby, and you can buy related T-shirts and trinkets at the front desk. After sundown, I go in search of the Marfa Lights. First reported in the 1880s, the lights dart and bounce above the ranch land between Marfa and Presidio. Or so they say. Different people have different explanations: reflecting headlights, swamp gases, evidence of alien visitors and/or government conspiracy. Assorted tourists and I wait at a viewing center west of town on Highway 90, but a local says that going east of town on 90 gives you the best odds of seeing them. I try that, too. It's rather like waiting for Godot. Day four: Marfa to Midland Since I have a late-afternoon flight, I stop at Fort Davis, a countrified resort town near the Davis Mountains. Stables offering trail rides are plentiful, and the shops sell plaques with aphorisms like never squat with your spurs on. Astronomers consider isolated Fort Davis "the darkest place in the lower 48," or so says a guide at the University of Texas's impressive McDonald Observatory. Touring the giant telescopes pleases the scientific part of my personality the way the Chinati pleased the artsy side. If you're not into telescopes, outdoorsy attractions include Davis Mountains State Park and the Fort Davis National Historic Site. Meanwhile, the free Neill Doll Museum nearby houses a strange, impressive collection. I head back to Midland through some lovely mountains and ranch land. Savor the view: Midland and Odessa's industrial scenery reappears before you know it. Finding your way Midland International is served by Sun Country, Continental, Southwest, and American Eagle; many flights connect via Houston or Dallas. Fall is high season: Rains cause the desert to bloom and the air to cool. 1. Midland international to Marathon 168 miles Arrive early: Marathon is over two hours from Midland/ Odessa. Take I-20 west to Hwy. 18. At Fort Stockton, get on Hwy. 385 south to Marathon. Stay at the Gage Hotel, the Marathon Motel, or the Adobe Rose Inn. Meals at the Gage are $20-$30 per person, but the food and ambience are excellent. Marcie's Kitchen, at the Marathon Motel, serves only breakfast. 2. Marathon to Terlingua 110 miles From Marathon, take Hwy. 385 to the west entrance to Big Bend. Leave the park via the western gate and Hwy. 118. Take Hwy. 170 to the Terlingua ghost town and Lajitas. Chisos Mountains Lodge is the only full-service restaurant in Big Bend, but all the stores sell snacks and sandwiches. (Cell phones rarely work, and the heat kills, so bring plenty of water. Carry cash because there are no ATMs.) The Hungry Javelina, a roadside stand on Hwy. 170, serves burgers and hot dogs. Dinner at the Starlight Theatre and Bar in Terlingua is a must. There are no hotels in the ghost town, but there are a few nearby. Stay inside the park at the Chisos Mountains Lodge, or near Terlingua at the Chisos Mining Company or the Longhorn Ranch Motel. 3. Terlingua to Marfa 110 miles From Terlingua, take Hwy. 118 to Alpine, then U.S. 90 west to Marfa. Grab coffee downtown before heading to the Chinati Foundation. Stay at Hotel Paisano or the Riata. Jett's, in Hotel Paisano, serves decent American food. 4. Marfa to Midland 200 miles Take Hwy. 17 to Fort Davis (about 20 miles). Continue on Hwy. 17. Sometime after Balmorhea, it will become I-10 for a few miles; take Hwy. 17 north, when it exits I-10, to Pecos. At Pecos, get on I-20 east and it'll lead you to the airport. The ride from Fort Davis takes approximately three-and-a-half hours.


    Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands

    Not too long ago, Amsterdam's Eastern Docklands was the turf of squatters, prostitutes, and drug dealers. Today, the loosely defined region also known as the New East, the New Amsterdam, or Eastern Islands has become more of a destination for modern-design junkies. The area's man-made islands and peninsulas--named Java-eiland, KNSM-eiland, Sporenburg, Borneo-eiland, Veemarktterrein, Abattoirterrein, and the Oostelijke Handelskade--were constructed in the late 19th century and thrived up until the 1970s, when shipping was diverted to the west of the city. But in the late '80s, Amsterdam hatched an ambitious plan for the region, primarily in response to its chronic housing shortage. Consider it a success: In the past decade the Docklands has blossomed into what's now a colorful, densely built mishmash of gentrified warehouses, modern canal houses, and quirky, eye-catching bridges. Each of the smaller islands and peninsulas has a unique character. For example, the Oostelijke Handelskade is filled with spruced-up warehouses. The narrow Java-eiland feels like a mini-Venice, with four waterways that transect it. And the KNSM-eiland features classic buildings with a twist: One highlight includes a massive, rounded wrought-iron gate designed by Antwerp artist Narcisse Tordoir that's considered a triumph of public art. The gate scales the entire height of an eight-story building that resembles an Italian opera house in the island's Barcelona Square. The best way to get a sense of the place is to take a tour. Rederij Lovers has two-and-a-half-hour architecture tours, via boat, which are currently only offered in English for groups over 20 and depart every Sunday afternoon. Alternately, Arttra and Bakker & Bakker both lead English-language walking tours for smaller groups. However, it's far cheaper--and more fun--to go off on your own: ARCAM, the Amsterdam Center for Architecture, sells a helpful map with noteworthy sites on it. Architecture is definitely the main draw. Check out the Scheepstimmermanstraat (Shipwright Street) on Borneo-eiland. Nine years ago, 60 narrow plots of land were parceled out to buyers, each of whom was encouraged to use a different, innovative architect. Though each home is on the water, measures exactly the same width, and incorporates tall windows, the designs are remarkably varied. From afar they come off like a standing row of deconstructed dominoes. On the nearby Eastern Dock, be sure to visit the copper-clad NEMO National Center for Science and Technology, a museum that is a large-scale approximation of a ship's bow, and Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ, Amsterdam's newest concert hall. Opening this summer, the hall will feature a mix of opera, classical, contemporary, jazz, and electronic music. As one would expect in a neighborhood with a lot of cutting-edge architecture, there are a number of design-centric boutiques. Many of them are in one small stretch of the KNSM-eiland, so it's possible to spend an hour or two window shopping. Pol's Potten sells bright and functional home and garden accessories; Dominio has a whimsical collection of Italian clothes, furniture, and housewares. The five-month-old Lloyd Hotel allows travelers to make the Docklands more than a day trip. Built in 1921 to house Eastern Europeans as they awaited ships to emigrate to South America, the Lloyd was converted into a juvenile prison in 1964. Now the 116 uniquely designed rooms--some of which used to be former cells--showcase Dutch furniture and cost between $100 to $380 (though only 14 are at the lowest price). And the Lloyd's bright, modern Snel Restaurant has long hours, from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m. The area's most famous new restaurant is Fifteen, an outpost of celebrity chef Jamie Oliver's London flagship. Open since December, the restaurant (which is located in a huge warehouse on the waterfront) isn't cheap, but the adjoining trattoria has a similar style and decently priced pasta and risotto à la carte. Given the Docklands' seafaring roots, a more fitting place to eat is in one of the several restaurants housed in boats. Once a Ukrainian vessel used for shipping, Odessa is now a French/international restaurant. Sip an Odessa Special cocktail ($8; vodka, crème fraîche, champagne) in the low-ceilinged below-deck lounge, or, if weather permits, dine outside. Also in a ship--a barge, to be precise--Einde van de Wereld (End of the World) serves humble food cooked by former squatters, on Wednesdays and Fridays from 6 p.m. For a picnic in one of the Docklands' many parks, stop by Roos en Noor, a deli in De Walvis, an office building that resembles a beached whale. Dishes like goat cheese quiche, Vietnamese salad with peanuts, and Thai curry are priced by weight. A day of high-design hopping is best finished by revisiting the Docklands' wild roots. For that, head to Azart, an eccentric, Felliniesque cabaret boat--also known as the Ship of Fools. A man named August Dirks is the unlikely captain of a motley crew of performers. The boat, only open on Fridays from 11 p.m., has burlesque theater and cheap drinks. If only the boat would take you back to your hotel.... Getting to the Eastern Docklands Amsterdam's main train depot, Centraal Station, is practically on the doorstep of the Eastern Docklands, so it's feasible to walk to where the neighborhood starts--though the wind can be relentless. Beginning in June, a tram (#26) will start running from Centraal Station to the area. Another option is to arrive by water; two ferries run a route every 20 minutes from Steiger 8 (Pier 8) behind the station and drop you off at Java-eiland. It's a 10-minute trip and costs $1.30. Alternately, bus 42 heads from the station to the Oostelijke Handelskade, then Java-eiland and KNSM-eiland; night bus 359 takes over running the route from midnight to dawn. You'll need to buy a strippenkaart, a card priced according to how far you travel. For more information, consult the transit authority (, 011-31/20-460-0606). Operators   Rederij Lovers 011-31/20-530-1090, $25 including coffee, tea, and cake   Arttra 011-31/20-625-9303, $144 per hour per group   Bakker & Bakker 011-31/20-683-6359, $102 per hour per group Lodgings   Lloyd Hotel Oostelijke Handelskade 34, 011-31/20-561- 3636, Food   Odessa Veemkade 259, 011-31/20-419-3010, three courses $35   Einde van de Wereld next to Javakade 2, 011-31/20-419-0222, cash only, dishes from $7   Roos en Noor Baron G. A. Tindalstraat 148, 011-31/20-419- 1440, dishes $2-$3 per 3.5 oz.   Fifteen Jollemanhof 9, 011-31/20-509-5011, à la carte plates average about $26   Azart Azartplein 117, no phone,, beer $1.90, no cover Attractions   NEMO National Center for Science and Technology 011-31/20-531-3233,   Muziekgebouw aan 't IJ Piet Heinkade 1, 011-31/20-788-2010   Po's Potten KNSM-laan 39, 011-31/20-419-3541   Dominio KNSM-laan 301, 011-31/20-419-0546   ARCAM Prins Hendrikkade 600, 011-31/20-620-4878, Tues.-Sat., 1 p.m.-5 p.m., maps $9.60

    Travel Tips

    Viking River Cruises responds to our readers' suggestions

    Last Friday we posted an item, "A reader proposes smart new routes for river cruises." Clarence Moore suggested several great new routes for European river cruises, "plugging gaps" in the existing coverage by the top companies. Other readers chimed in with their own comments. Carol, for instance, asked for help finding a cruise covering Ukraine, the Black Sea, and Istanbul. Well, we have good news. A representative from Viking River Cruises has written in with a helpful response. Thank you, Joost Ouendag, VP Product Marketing at Viking River Cruises. As the person in charge of developing new product for Viking River Cruises, I would very much like to second your request for more, more, more! Having said that, here is what we have found, as far as European rivers are concerned: one of our competitors a few years ago tried sailing the Wisla in Poland. there is a lot of historical interest along that river, so it seemed appropriate. However, the river turned out to be barely navigable during the best of times—if my memory serves me well, only two or three cruises could take place as planned. The venture was abandoned after that one season. The Oder north of Berlin does get some river cruise traffic, but the ships have to be relatively small, and the demand is limited, just as it is on the lower Elbe and the waterways of Northern Holland. To my knowledge, only one European company services these regions. A few years ago a number of companies sailed on the Po river, but the water levels in that river proved a major challenge in operating an entire season. Subsequently, all of these operators were forced to pull out. On the Iberian peninsula, only the Douro river is large and deep enough for river cruise vessels. There are a few operators that offer cruises on this river that drains northern Portugal. To Carol: Viking River Cruises does offer a cruise in the Ukraine, from Kiev to Odessa or vice versa. Check out our website. Finally, to Clarence Moore: some parts of Europe are only now finding the economic benefits river cruising can bring. Infrastructure is constantly being improved and new opportunities present themselves. Rest assured that wherever we find a river that can sustain an exciting, dependable and rewarding cruise experience, you will find us there! EARLIER Viking and other river cruise companies introduce new ships


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