Russian River Valley

You might not go to bed until dawn, but do it at the most inviting inns in this perennial party town. Finding affordable rooms in New Orleans between January and early May is as hard as finding clean politicians here: They exist, but, boy, are they hidden. The Sugar Bowl/Mardi Gras/St. Pat's/French Quarter Fest/Jazz Fest megaseason all but guarantees a constant influx of bons vivants who snarf up every hotel, motel, and B&B cubbyhole around. It is not unheard-of for basic digs at, say, the Hilton to go for north of $300. But if you book early at one of the spots below (which we priced on a high-season weekend outside of the super- expensive festival periods), you may be able to have your King Cake and eat it, too. The McKendrick-Breaux House is really two houses, both beautifully restored 1865 Greek Revivals in the Lower Garden District, connected by a shady courtyard. The nine rooms bear extravagant touches, like floor-to-ceiling silk dupioni drapes and fresh flowers, and each has a spacious bathroom--most are resplendent with pedestal sinks, claw-foot bathtubs, and luxuriously thick robes with slippers. An incarnation of the city's grand (yet sometimes seedy) past, The Columns Hotel is a Garden District mansion that played a brothel in the 1978 Brooke Shields movie Pretty Baby. Some of the 20 rooms have seen better days--tatty wallpaper, threadbare drapes, slightly banged-up furniture. But they're clean, and when you consider the hotel's ornate mahogany bar, its expansive porch, and the sounds of live jazz in the ballroom, the shabbiness just feels right. And the potential is enormous. Well situated Uptown on one of the Carnival parade routes, Beau Sejour has six rooms in a 100-year-old Italianate home set high on an avenue canopied by live oaks. The ground-floor suite is the best option, but two of the upstairs rooms have balconies overlooking the street. If the weather is warm enough--which it often is, even in February--guests take a dip in the small pool or hold cookouts around the gas grill. The 137-room Hotel Le Cirque stands 10 stories tall on Lee Circle, near the streetcar stop, and around the corner from the city's Warehouse Arts district. The rooms are small, mod-looking affairs done in an eye-lulling range of neutrals. In all, it's a pretty slick spot considering the price, and guests get free access to a nearby gym. The brand-new Renaissance Arts Hotel, smack in the Warehouse Arts district, has gussied itself up with original works everywhere. There's a gallery off the lobby and a sculpture garden on the second floor. Even the rooms are decked in local art and bold linens. It's a gimmick that works. All that creativity fills the hotel with a certain energy and makes staying here fun. Parked on the streetcar line in the Central Business District and near the French Quarter, the Hotel Monaco--a renovated former Masonic temple from 1926--doesn't rest on the laurels of its location. It's also historic and colorful. The lobby and rooms are aflame in hot hues and contrasting prints, and its trendy restaurant, Cobalt, hosts live jazz on the weekends. Le Richelieu probably peaked in 1975 when Paul and Linda McCartney spent two months holed up on its top floor, which overlooks the street on the downriver end of the Quarter. The 86 rooms are a bit dark and none too stylish. But affordable beds in the Vieux Carré are rare, and if you request a spot on the second floor, which has 12- to 14-foot ceilings and a fabulous balcony, you won't be sorry. Just up the road lies Hotel Provincial, a series of buildings built in the mid-1800s. Because of sporadic development, each of the 93 rooms sports a different layout and is filled with antiques that have seen better days. Nonetheless, the hotel's prime location, ample parking, and two pools make it a sweet spot to hang your mask during high season. In the Faubourg Marigny, just downriver of the Quarter, the six-room B&W Courtyards is run by two chatty and opinionated dudes who are only too happy to tell you all the coolest places to eat, drink, and dance. Rooms range in size and style--everything from tiger stripes to Balinese--and most of them open onto one of three fountained courtyards. Summer meltdown in the Big Easy In August--when it feels like you're walking around town with a hot, wet blanket wrapped around your head--even the prices at the snazziest hotels begin to droop. Book as late as you can. The grand-mere of posh Crescent City hotels, the Windsor Court (300 Gravier St., 888/596-0955, windsorcourthotel.com/) rents mostly suites. In deep summer, an 800-square-foot unit that normally costs $700 goes for $240. The Soniat House (1133 Chartres St., 800/544-8808, soniathouse.com/), on the quiet, lower end of the French Quarter, has 33 rooms with gleaming antiques and art. The cheapest goes for $250 in season, but come the dog days, just a single Ben Franklin will get you in. A couple of weeks before Mardi Gras, you'll pay $450 for a room at the W Hotel French Quarter (316 Chartres St., 888/625-5144, whotels.com/), but a few weeks before Labor Day, you can set the A/C to 60 and jump into its pillow-top beds for half that. Meanwhile, at the Ritz-Carlton (921 Canal St., 800/241-3333, ritzcarlton.com/), a $415 room can be had for just $129. Take the money you save and spend it at the spa. McKendrick-Breaux House 1474 Magazine St., 888/570-1700, mckendrick-breaux.com, $135 The Columns Hotel 3811 St. Charles Ave., 800/445-9308, thecolumns.com, $110 Beau Sejour 1930 Napoleon Ave., 888/897-9398, beausejourbandb.com, $130 Hotel Le Cirque 936 St. Charles Ave., 800/684-9525, neworleansfinehotels.com, $119 Renaissance Arts Hotel 700 Tchoupitoulas St., 800/468-3571, renaissancehotels.com/, $159 Hotel Monaco 333 St. Charles Ave., 866/685-8359, monaco-neworleans.com, $144 Le Richelieu 1234 Chartres St., 800/535-9653, lerichelieuhotel.com, $140 Hotel Provincial 1024 Chartres St., 800/535-7922, hotelprovincial.com, $149 B&W Courtyards 2425 Chartres St., 800/585-5731, bandwcourtyards.com, $129

Santa Fe hotels are the most expensive in the Southwest, but America's second-oldest city is not without bargains. You just have to compromise a little, and the trade-offs are usually pretty clear. Either stay at a generic cookie-cutter several miles from the historic Plaza (where all the good shops, restaurants, and museums are), or choose a place with more character that's near the action but has small rooms or an uninspired atmosphere. You can also save money by avoiding the summer high season. Winter in Santa Fe is chilly but serene--you'll have the entire city to yourself, and rates drop by as much as 75 percent. Spring and fall are the most pleasant times to visit. They're temperate, sunny, ideal for hiking and photography, and, compared with summer, typically 10 percent to 30 percent cheaper. Unless otherwise noted, prices in this article are for spring and fall and include a private bath and phone. La Tienda Inn and Duran House 445 W. San Francisco St., 800/889-7611, latiendabb.com/, from $115 You probably wouldn't stumble on these dapper century-old houses by accident, even though they're but a five-minute stroll west of the Plaza. This stretch of one of Santa Fe's oldest streets is mostly residential, except for a terrific piano bar and steak house, Vanessie, across the street. La Tienda ("the store") comprises what had been an old bodega plus two stunningly restored territorial-style (a local version of Spanish-colonial) houses. Rates vary seasonally and by room size, but even the top-end units (with kiva fireplaces) won't set you back more than $165 in spring and fall. All 13 rooms overflow with well-chosen Mexican and Southwestern antiques and newer handcrafted pieces. Continental breakfast is included. El Paradero 220 W. Manhattan Ave., 505/988-1177, http://www.elparadero.com/, from $85 Simple but not downscale, El Paradero is one of the least expensive small inns in town. It's on the south edge of the trendy Guadalupe District (known for cool cafes and home-furnishings shops), a 10-minute walk from the Plaza. An early-1800s Spanish farmhouse, it's fitted with Mexican pine furniture, handwoven rugs and tapestries, folk art, and Saltillo tiles. Alas, there are no grounds to speak of, except a small, sunny patio. But you get a substantial full breakfast and afternoon tea as part of the deal. Silver Saddle Motel 2810 Cerrillos Rd., 505/471-7663, from $39 With a low-slung adobe exterior decked with wagon wheels, the campy Silver Saddle transcends the divey yesteryear-motel genre. Sure, the carpets are a bit faded and the walls razor thin, and Santa Fe's only strip club is across Cerrillos Road. But there's a kitschy, fun-loving swagger about the place. Most rooms are named for icons of the West (Annie Oakley, Wyatt Earp) and contain plaques with colorful biographies. Funky touches include Talvera-tile bathrooms, serape tapestries, built-in bancos (adobe-style benches), and equipale (Mexican pigskin) chairs. The city's seminal Wild West gift emporium, Jackalope, is next door. Hotel St. Francis 210 Don Gaspar Ave., 800/529-5700, hotelstfrancis.com, from $80 One of the Southwest's most dashing old-world hotels, the St. Francis opened in the early '20s and fills up fast, thanks to low rates and a super-central location just a block from the Plaza. The least expensive rooms are small and functional, with cherry and oak reproduction antiques and brass or iron beds. A big draw here is the stunning and cavernous lobby, with its soaring ceilings, comfy sofas and armchairs, and elaborate red-tile work. The adjacent bar is a favorite hangout with the twenty-and thirtysomething set. Pecos Trail Inn 2239 Old Pecos Trail, 505/982-1943, from $79 Strangely, Santa Fe has very few lodging options in the scenic foothills on the east side of town. This homey motor lodge is the rare exception, and its rooms are surprisingly bright and cheery, with beamed ceilings, hand-carved Mexican and Southwestern furniture, tile floors, and earthy palettes. You can't actually see much from your room, but the pool and grounds afford brilliant views of the 14,000-foot Sangre de Cristo Mountains. A bonus: The festive restaurant, Chilacas, serves tasty, cheap grub and offers some innovative promotions--if you sit at the worst table in the house, you can spin the "wheel of chance" to see whether you'll get 50 percent off your bill (or, if fortune frowns, you'll owe $50). Santa Fe Courtyard by Marriott 3347 Cerrillos Rd., 800/777-3347, santafecourtyard.com, from $79 Don't fret about the morose surroundings (parking lots and strip malls along busy Cerrillos Road, about five miles from the Plaza). Once you're inside this glitzy, miniature resort, anchored by a pair of lush interior patios, it's easy to forget about the outside world, making this place the pick of the chain hotels. Rooms not only have the usual upscale perks (mini-fridges, hairdryers, coffeemakers, high-speed Internet) but also chunky carved-wood armoires, desks, and headboards reminiscent of Spanish-colonial haciendas. There's an indoor pool, a tolerable restaurant (with room service), and a gift shop hawking surprisingly authentic jewelry and crafts. El Rey Inn 1862 Cerrillos Rd., 800/521-1349, elreyinnsantafe.com/, from $72 The kind of place where Lucy and Ricky might have stayed during one of their cross-country adventures, this rambling 1930s motor court comprises several clusters of white-stucco buildings set on five acres of fountains, shade trees, sculptures, and courtyards. El Rey isn't just retro-hip, it's downright snazzy. The 86 individually decorated rooms--10 with wood fireplaces and kitchenettes--contain a coordinated mishmash of mid-20th-century antiques and Southwestern accents, from upholstered wing chairs and sofas to Mexican-tile murals to traditional latilla-and-viga beamed ceilings. Santa Fe Budget Inn 725 Cerrillos Rd., 800/288-7600, santafebudgetinn.com, from $54 There's just one reason to stay at this drab but perfectly clean motel: It has the lowest rates ($54) of any respectable property within easy walking distance of both the Plaza and the Guadalupe District. Otherwise, unless you consider the two cheap and adjacent restaurants (one serves decent New Mexican fare; the other, Big Macs), the Budget Inn is uneventful. Ask for a room in building C or D--they're farther away from the street.

Sure there's usually a fun singles scene at many ski mountains, but retreating to a ski resort is more often a family activity. Unfortunately, it can be a very expensive family activity. Children usually pay much less for lift tickets than adults, but kiddy expenses can still add up quickly. A family of four can spend $200 a day at the slopes, and that doesn't even include food or lodging. There are ways around paying full-price. In many instances, resorts will let kids ski (and even stay and fly) for free, as long as they are coming along with adults (and those adults' wallets, of course). But whatever the motivation for such offers, they are a means to save money on a healthy, fun family vacation. In many states, middle schoolers can ski dozens of days each season for only a nominal registration fee (just $10 in many cases). And all kinds of resorts and packagers throw in kids' expenses for free, so long as an adult is paying full price. While the resort packages change from month to month, the state sponsered offers tend to remain steady, so we list the best of them here below. Pre-teens ski free Several ski-friendly states including Colorado, Vermont, Utah, Maine, New Hampshire, New York, and California allow youngsters of a certain age to ski for free. Programs vary, but most allow fifth graders (sometimes fourth, fifth, sixth, and seventh graders) a few dozen days on the mountain totally free. And some let kids hit the slopes all season long without having to purchase a lift ticket. In most cases, it's not necessary for the child to live in the state he or she is skiing in either. Why fourth or fifth graders? It's simply a good age for kids to pick up skiing or snowboarding quickly. At around age 10, children are strong and coordinated enough to progress rapidly. At the same time, they're adventurous and fearless during these pre-puberty years, which helps when learning a sometimes scary activity. There is usually some kind of registration fee or a delivery charge, but other than that, the only provision tends to be that the child must be accompanied each day by an adult who is paying for a lift ticket. Utah's program (called the "5th Grade Passport"), for example, requires a $10 processing fee per child. An application has to be filled out, along with a photo and proof of age and school grade. The pass can be used for a free lift ticket for the fifth-grader, but only when presented at the same time an adult is purchasing a full-day pass. A maximum of two fifth grader can get a freebie pass for each adult daily. Kids can ski for free three times at each of the participating resorts (which is just about every resort in Utah, including Park City, Alta, Sundance, Snowbird, Deer Valley, Brianhead, and others). Each state's program is slightly different, so check with each for specific rules and regulations. In New Hampshire's "Earn Your Turns" program, fourth graders must research some aspect of skiing history and write an essay, draw a picture, or build a model. After a teacher approves of the work, the fourth grader receives a book of free lift tickets and cross-country passes. But most states simply require that a youngster fill out a form and submit a small fee to get their ski freebies. Info on each state's program can be found at: California: californiasnow.com/passport.htm, 800/627-5409 Colorado: coloradoski.com/, 303/866-9707 Maine: winterkids.org/, 207/761-3774 (Maine actually has free skiing opportunities for fifth, sixth, and seventh graders, but only for state residents) New Hampshire: skinh.com/ski_area_programs.cfm, 800/887-5464 (fourth graders only) New York: 44free.com/, 800/CALL-NYS (fourth graders only) Utah: skiutahlocals.com/, 801/534-1779 Vermont: skivermont.com/, 802/223-2439 Associate Editor Brad Tuttle started skiing at age 4, and these days splits his time on the slopes between skiing and snowboarding.

Voyageurs National Park is located three hundred miles north of Minneapolis, at the Ontario border. You can go days there without encountering another soul. 655 miles of shoreline The park, one-third water, was named for 18th-century French Canadians who traveled in birch canoes and traded furs. Boating is still the only way to explore what is essentially a roadless area. Campers rent canoes or kayaks (Voyageurs Adventures, 877/465-2925, from $15) or cruise in floating homes (Rainy Lake Houseboats, 800/554-9188, rainylakehouseboats.com/, from $289/day for up to six people). Swimming is for the brave--the crisp waters, which flow from northern Canada, may cause hearts to skip a beat. But fishing is huge. Top prize is the rare walleye, known for its tasty white fillets. Boat-in campgrounds Visitors camp for free at 215 developed sites, or they pitch a tent pretty much wherever they want, which usually means sleeping somewhere humans haven't set foot in months. After dark, loon calls, both soothing and eerie, accompany the howls of timberwolves. The night sky comes alive, too: Voyageurs is one of the few places in the lower 48 states where, if you're lucky, you can see the northern lights. Little American Island In 1893, prospectors found gold on a speck of land in huge Rainy Lake, leading to a brief mining craze. During the peak months (June through August), rangers escort visitors through its abandoned shafts, as well as on cruises, canoe trips, and hikes along the park's 45 miles of water-accessible trails. Most excursions are free or cost less than $15, and they launch from three visitors centers, each located a few miles from International Falls, Minn. In winter, when there are more black bears and moose than hikers and blueberry pickers, the frozen park morphs into a playground for snowmobiling and cross-country skiing. The Kettle Falls Hotel Built during a 1910 logging boom, the 12-room hotel, a National Historic Landmark deep in the park, retains its antique, middle-of-nowhere charm. May through mid-October, it charges from $50 per person (218/374-4404, kettlefallshotel.com/).