An Affordable Trip to Taiwan

Just another loud, bustling afternoon in Seoul's hip downtown shopping district of Myong-dong. Gigglesome schoolgirls yak on designer cell phones as they stroll arm-in-arm down crowded lanes lined with clothes shops (goodness, so much black this season) and eateries -- both Western fast-food and local. One store blasts Korean-language hip-hop out onto the street, while down the block a Christian evangelist tries to compete by bellowing his spiel interspersed with slurred, off-key snatches of "Auld Lang Syne." Another guy's selling a boxful of adorable fuzzy pups (for pets, not lunch). Amid all this sensory overload, suddenly a blotch of red and green zigs and zags through the throng: a woman in a traditional silk hanbok, Korea's answer to the kimono or the sari. Who knows what the deal is there? A bride late for her wedding picture? A gonged-out refugee from a folkloric troupe? No matter -- it's like glimpsing the ancient soul of the nation flitting silently through the noisy modern megalopolis. Modern and mega certainly do describe this capital of 11 million -- yet unexpectedly dotting the glass, steel, and concrete sprawl are lovely tucked-away pockets of the "land of the morning calm," the Korea that was: palaces and gardens and marvelously atmospheric old neighborhoods. And beyond Seoul other gems await. Topping the list are Kyongju, the old imperial capital with a millennium's worth of awesome antiquities, and Cheju Island, a semitropical offshore haven with its own singular culture and feel. For a very different kind of history -- the Cold War -- there's nothing else in the world like the DMZ, where U.S. and South Korean troops still tensely guard against the still real menace of Stalinist North Korea (you can't go on your own; day tours from Seoul start at $40). Many of the relatively few Americans who visit do so as a stopover on the way to "bigger fish" like China and Japan. But this particular minnow still manages to pack enough to see and experience to fill at least a couple of weeks. Its cuisine and culture are fascinating -- uniquely Korean forms whose flavor lies somewhere between Japanese and Chinese. The same could be said for its geography -- half of a peninsula hanging down from Manchuria -- and prices that, thanks to the Asian economic crisis that started in the summer of 1997, range from refreshingly affordable to downright amazing for Americans. The U.S. greenback just recently bought more than 1,175 won (everywhere abbreviated as W) compared to 890 in May 1997, which though not as high as a year ago still means a major boost in Yank buy power. Whether shopping for an extraordinary bargain in custom-tailored clothing, enjoying a deluxe hotel for less than $100 a night, or gorging on a 20-course dinner for under $12, this is the time to experience another, truly one-of-a-kind side of Asia. SEOUL SEARCHING The capital of it all is a souped-up mix of past, present, and future. But just as you think you're about to drown in canyons of steel, you stumble into oases like the gargantuan palace complex Gyeongbokgung (entry fee W1000, or 85¢), reminiscent of Peking's Forbidden City, or the smaller, even more gorgeous Changdeokgung ($1.96). Then, too, there are low-slung old quarters like Insa-dong, with its teahouses, crafts shops, and antiques stores, graced with sweeping pagoda-style tile roofs. Explore on your own using the very navigable subway system (60¢-70¢), or grab a bus tour ($27 for a half-day guided tour). Traditional culture's also very much alive and kicking; don't miss one of the spectacular (sometimes downright acrobatic) performances of ancient court and folk music; ticket prices range from $17.50-$25.50 for the superb Chongdong Theater to just $6.80-$8.50 at the National Center for Korean Traditional Performing Arts. Jock-watchers might appreciate an exciting bout of traditional wrestling or a battle between the Samsung Lions and the Haitai Tigers for $5-$8.50 (baseball is a passion here as in Japan). Then of course there's that great American (and Korean) sport, shopping -- and Seoul boasts some world-class options at bargain-basement prices. In choosing a base of operations for all this, you'll find a plentiful supply of budget-friendly lodgings. The Hamilton Hotel, a brick box on the foreigner-popular shopping and entertainment avenue of Itaewon, offers amenities including a pool and its own mall for a reasonable $99. Over in Myongdong, doubles with private bath at the Savoy start at $116 nightly, and nearby the Metro offers much the same for $68. If you're really looking to stretch that won, consider a yogwan (sometimes translated as "inn," sometimes as "motel"). Comparable to the European pension, they range from disgusting fleabags run by shady characters to simple but well-maintained family establishments. The Korean National Tourism Organization can provide a list of budget inns, but two winners in the charming old Insa-dong area are clean, right off the main street, and offer a night in a double room with bath, A/C, phone, and TV for $21. The Han Hung Jang is run by friendly Shin Kyu Park and her son and (English-speaking) daughter-in-law, while several doors down Kyong Guk Kim operates the Kwan Hoon Jang with his wife and son -- and they'll also feed you for about $3 a meal. CAPTIVATING GYEONGJU Not to be confused with other similarly named places like Kwangju, this eastern city is a national treasure well worth at least an overnighter from Seoul. Yes, it's now got high-rises, a commercialized downtown, and a resort district at Pomun Lake jammed with hotels and an amusement park. But Gyeongju is also home to two of Asia's most magnificent ancient monuments, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The eighth-century seated Buddha at Seokguram Grotto ($2.50) is awe-inspiring, as is the nearby sixth-century Bulguksa temple ($2.50), where you can (discreetly) watch real Buddhist monks and nuns going about their devotions. Other must-sees include huge mounds housing royal tombs, the Gyeongju National Museum with its 11-foot-tall "Divine Bell," and compounds where residents have added a fridge here and a TV there to a lifestyle otherwise little changed in centuries. You can see it all on a bus tour ($47 with a local outfit, including lunch, or $250 overnight from Seoul, including meals and hotel), or rent a car for $42 per day. A good lodging choice downtown is the salmon-colored yogwan Bomun Shillajang, where a double runs $21 a night. If you're feeling adventurous, blow an additional $8.25 on an ondul, a traditional Korean-style room where you have to take off your shoes to walk on the floor (covered with thick paper, oiled and varnished) and your bed is a futon on the same; practically every hotel in the country offers ondul rooms, but caveat dormitor: make sure your back is up to the experience. Most Gyeongju hotels are out at Pomun Lake, a $6.75 taxi ride from downtown or 35¢ to 60¢ by public bus. The Samgwang Grace has modern, pleasant, and comfy doubles with baths and amenities for $42 (plus all meals served for $5 to $8.30 each), but right up the road at the Swiss Rosen, $68 will buy you something similar in a much snazzier designer hotel. No, there's nothing particularly Swiss about the place (they just liked the name), but it's a beaut for the bucks. The Koreans like to think of this 42-by-24-mile isle (also referred to as Jeju-do) as their very own Hawaii. Well, the palm trees are imported, but they do have several things in common: impressive scenery, volcanic origins, a balmy climet (Jeju's average year-round temperature is 60 degrees), and an ancient, separate language and cultural tradition. Or to compare with Japan, if Seoul is the Tokyo of Korea and imperial Gyeongju the Kyoto, then Jeju's not unlike Okinawa. It's a vacation and honeymoon getaway mostly for Koreans and Japanese, but one that hasn't yet been paved over. Apart from loads of natural beauty (lovely waterfalls, lava formations including the world's longest lava tube, South Korea's highest peak), there's plenty of evidence of the Mongol-influenced local culture to explore. Burial mounds encircled by walls of lava rocks dot the hillsides. Mysterious harubang-ancient humanoid statues pop up all over the place (originals, copies, and images on everything from buses to harubang-shaped phone booths). Groups of distinctive, white-garbed women divers plumb the coasts for sea critters. Old-style mud-and-thatch houses can still be seen right in the main towns; the rest are in the touristy but still lived-in village of Songup and the Colonial Williamsburg-style Jeju Folk Village (for an entry fee of $3.40 a great visit). And don't forget the botanical, from one of Asia's largest gardens to the Bunjae Artpia ($6), an impressive one-of-a-kind park filled with 2,000 bonsai trees. You can rent a car for$48 a day(the roads are quite good); take a daylong tourist association bus tour for $27; or even book a package from Seoul (a typical two-nighter might cost around $170, including air, hotel, and daily breakfast). Naturally, there's no shortage of hotels and restaurants, and the exchange rate translates into great bang for your buck even at top-end spots. But budget options are pretty good, too, especially in the capital, Jeju-Shi. The blue-and-white, three-year-old City Hotel is a stylish choice where a double goes for $42.50. Just down the hill, the also newish Hotel Jeju Core offers comparable rooms and amenities (plus a slightly better location closer to downtown) for $33 per double. Seoul for sale The quality of Korea's manufacturing and the strength of the U.S. dollar make for some incredible Seoul savings, especially leather and clothing for both sexes. Check out hip Myong-dong and the Nam Dae Mun street markets; for top-quality custom-made duds (how about $225 for an entire men's suit?), look up the better tailors in the Itaewon shopping/entertainment district. Korea counseling All calls to South Korea need to be preceded by 011-82, then the area code minus the initial zero. There's a 13-hour time difference from the U.S. East Coast, 10 hours from the West Coast. For general information, contact the Korean National Tourism Organization (with branches in Chicago, Los Angeles, and New York): 800/868-7567; knto.or.kr. In Seoul, 10 Da-dong, Chung-gu; 02/757-0086, fax 02/777-0102. Getting there Six airlines have service from the U.S., including nonstops on KAL (800/438-5000; koreanair.com) and Asiana (800/227-4262; asiana.co.kr); others include United and Northwest. Current consolidator and online fares can be as low as $700 from the East Coast, $500 from the West. Getting around Intercity ground transport is reasonably priced. The trip from Seoul to Gyeongju, for example, takes about four to four-and-a-half hours, with one-way bus fares starting at $13.40 and train at $24.40. The one-hour flight to the nearest airport, at Busan (an hour's drive from Gyeongju), costs $53 each way. Flying is the only practical way to get to Jeju Island from Seoul; it also takes an hour and costs about $63 one-way. Vouchers for the Korea Rail Pass can be purchased in the U.S, through America Tour Consulting (212/643-0766, ustravel.co.kr); a three-day pass good for travel on any train in the country costs $47. Lodging leads Korea Hotel Reservations Center (in U.S., 800/251-4848, fax 914/426-7338; khrc.com). Korean Youth Hostel Association (02/725-3031, fax 02/725-3113). LABO homestay programs (02/817-4625; fax 02/813-7047; labostay.or.kr). Korea Budget Inns Reservation Center (02/757-0086; fax 02/777-0102; knto.or.kr), Korea Lodging Reservation Center (ktell.com) Seoul hotels (area code 02) Hamilton Hotel (119-25 Itaewon-Dong, Yong San-Ku. 794-0171; fax 795-0457). Han Hung Jang Yogwan (99 Kwanhoon-Dong, Jongro-Ku. 734-4265) Kwan Hoon Jang Yogwan (95 Kwanhoon-Dong, Jongro-Ku. 732-1682). Metro Hotel (199-33, Eulchi-Ro, 2-Ka, Choong-Ku. 752-1112; fax 757-4411). Hotel Savoy (23-1, 1-Ka, Chumgmu-Ro, Choong-Ku. 776-2641; fax 755-7669; savoy.co.kr). Seoul restaurants Morangak (corner of Chungmuro and Fashion Streets, Myongdong. 777-2343). Myongdong Kyoja (25 Myongdong 2-ga. 776-5348). Myongdong Chigae (off Myongdong 2-ga. 752-6800). Sok Jung (193-1 Insa-dong, Chongnogu. 734-0916). Gyeongju hotels (area code 0561) Bomun Shillajang (243-5 Hwangoh-dong, downtown. 749-6622). Swiss Rosen Hotel (242-19 Shinpyong-dong, Pomun Lake. 748-4848; fax 748-0094). Samgwang Grace Hotel (242-14 Shinpyong-dong, Pomun Lake. 745-0404; fax 745-0409). Gyeongju restaurants Chang-u-dong (89 Nodong-dong, downtown. 772-2692). Won Pung (Hwangnam-dong, near downtown. 772-8630). Jeju hotels (area code 064) Hotel Cheju Core (304-13 Yon-dong, Cheju-Shi. 744-6600; fax 747-7001). City Hotel (306-13 Yon-dong, Cheju-Shi. 749-1851; fax 744-8945). Lions Hotel (803 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 762-4141; fax 733-3617). Hotel Napoli (587-3 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 733-4701; fax 733-4802). Jeju restaurants Gin Go Gae (319-23 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo (opposite Hotel Top. 733-5089). Jin Ju (313-10 Sogwi-dong, downtown Sogwipo. 762-5158).

The Grenadines are prized among yachties, but even the sailing challenged can take a $6 ferry from the "mainland" of St. Vincent, where Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed, to Bequia (BECK-wee). This squiggle of an isle has a charming port, a thriving artist's culture, and these don't-miss highlights. Untouched beaches As befitting a place you haven't heard of, the seashore is virtually pristine. Hail a water taxi to Princess Margaret Beach (she swam there in 1958, and it seems like few people have since) or go overland (dollar mini-trucks with bench seats) to laid-back Lower Bay Beach. There, when you're tired of playing in the calm turquoise water, check out the tropical watercolors and silk paintings at Claude Victorine's studio at the end of the beachside road. Hamilton fort On the hill above the pastel clothing boutiques, grocery stores, and cafés of Port Elizabeth, a few cannons stand as a reminder of the French, who fortified the site in the 18th century, and the English, who later held it. The battery's mostly gone, but the view of sailboats anchored in Admiralty Bay is still worth fighting over. Oldhegg turtle sanctuary As a boy, Orton "Brother" King watched his grandfather hunt sea turtles off Bequia. After years as a diving fisherman himself, he realized he had to do something to help the dwindling species. Follow the road past Industry Bay to visit the shelter where King has rescued more than 680 baby hawksbills since 1995. Model sailboats At the Boat House, above Friendship Bay, Kingsley "Prop" King carves gum boats (named after the wood of which they're made) of up to three feet long. Most Sundays, owners of the larger gum boats race near Paget Farm, the fishing community on the south coast. The Thursday night "jump-up" Every week, there's a barbecue and free steel-pan music at the harborside Frangipani Hotel, a noted watering hole. You're guaranteed to see everyone you've met on Bequia. The old fort One of the island's oldest buildings is a fortified-stone French plantation house from the 1700s, now a six-room country inn. It's a walk to a beach, but there's a pool and a stirring panorama of the nearby islands. $95 to $140 for a double, 784/458-3440, theoldfort.com.

Just about every "sunbelt" resort in the world has tennis courts, and every avid tennis player can find a place to play tennis on vacation. Where we attempt to assist you is in naming, and describing, the locations for "total tennis," "tennis immersion," "single-minded tennis," the places where the vacationer lives, eats, and breathes tennis. And these fall into three categories: (a) the tennis "camps" and "clinics" whose sole, exclusive purpose is to provide instruction in tennis; (b) the "tennis resorts" supplying serious, tennis instruction by multiple tennis professionals, but on the grounds of a larger establishment with broader forms of recreation; and (c) the "tennis tours" that take you to attend famous professional matches in tennis, but also provide an opportunity for you to play on the courts of those world-renowned venues. These specialist camps, resorts and tours don't come cheap. Tennis hasn't yet become a mass-market sport (though some half-heartedly claim it is approaching that state) and most tennis players need to be of upper-middle-class status before they have means to practice the sport intensively. Tennis "campa" and "clinics" The Vic Braden Tennis College435/628-8060, 800/237-1068, greenvalleyspa.com/vicbraden.com/ Although the Vic Braden Tennis College is on the grounds of the Green Valley Spa, and guests can participate in the various exercise routines of that Spa, the primary purpose of a vacation here is tennis, tennis, tennis. Operating for over 15 years, the Vic Braden Tennis College combines--in its words--the science of "stroke production" with a philosophy that stresses the fun of the game in a relaxed learning environment. Its motto is "50% of all tennis players lose. Here you learn to win." The College is nestled in the canyon lands of southern Utah, at the Spa we've mentioned, and the tennis/spa "package" includes hiking in the surrounding state and national parks from one to four hours in the morning, followed by tennis instruction throughout the afternoon. You'll eat a low fat, low sugar diet, and receive a full range of massage, body and skin treatments; but tennis predominates. A five-day Tennis/Spa stay is $2,025 per person during the low season (July and December), $2,430 the rest of the year, inclusive of lodgings, meals, tuition, daily spa treatments and all else. For those who wish to forego the spa, a tennis only package is available for $105 per day, for three to five days. This package is what it says, "tennis only" and includes no meals or lodging. Teacher/student ratio is one to five. Ramey Tennis School270/771-5590, 812/649-2668, rameycamps.com/ If time on the court is your barometer for a good tennis vacation, Ramey Tennis School is the clear winner. Participants spend a full eight-hours per day in clinics, doing drills, working with the ball machine or in competitive match play. Priding itself on being among the least glamorous of the tennis clinics, the school promises: "bone-grinding drills and lots of blood sweat and tears. Ramey Tennis School is no vacation." A small program, the center can accept no more than 14 guests at a time, ensuring a guest to instructor ratio of 4:1. Participants stay either at a B&B on property or down the road (a five-minute drive) at the Holiday Inn Express. Rates for a two-day, three-night program including housing, breakfasts and lunches and all instruction are $360 per person double occupancy, $420 single. Longer programs are slightly less expensive. Evert Tennis Academy10334 Diego Drive SouthBoca Raton, FL 33428561/488-2001, 800/417-3783 A serious training facility that offers instruction to players of all levels, year round; Chris Evert is the founder. Essentially, the Center runs a full-time year-round boarding academy for young tennis hopefuls, as well as a variety of packages, non-boarding, for adults. Pros who teach all have IPG experience, and the student/teacher ratio is 4:1. A five-day package for a single adult low season (summer) is $350 for the camp, accommodations are extra. Bollettieri Tennis Academy at IMG Academies5500 34th Street WestBradenton, FL 34210941/755-2600, 800/872-6425, imgacademies.com/ Perhaps the most "hard-core" tennis facility of them all, a place for people who are very serious indeed about their tennis. For 40 years Nick Bollettieri has been helping people play better tennis. His facility here has 79 championship courts, a high-tech 30,000 square foot artificial turf dome, a Sports Therapy and Performance Institute, and even additional sports facilities supporting adult programs year round on a weekly and mini-week basis. There are on-site Jacuzzis, pools, Nautilus machines and aerobic training. The programs range from basic sports instruction (mini-week for $485); to whirlwind tennis immersions which combine video analysis, daily private lessons, therapeutic massages, healthy meals, daily strength, speed and agility sessions and five and a half hour drills with performance analyses by the sports psych department, (full week for $935). Participants find their own accommodations in the Bradenton area. Alumni of Nick Bollettieri include Monica Seles, Andre Agassi and Anna Kournikova. The John Newcombe Tennis Ranch325 Mission Valley RoadNew Braunfels, Texas 78132800/444-6204, 830/625-9105, newktennis.com/ With an international faculty, skewing strongly towards Australia, the Tennis Ranch is a highly convivial, fun place to learn. Instructors not only join guests on the courts but at the dining hall and for karaoke and drinks at the bar in the evenings. Offering both weeklong and weekend programs (at approximately $275 per day), students spend about five hours on the courts under the tutelage of John Newcomb himself (winner of 26 Grand Slam titles) or his able staff. The Ranch was built in the 1940's as a dude ranch, and it's a comfortable, luxuriously homespun place with a swimming pool, whirlpool, soccer courts and volleyball pit. Occasionally the school has special holiday and companion discounts, so be sure to inquire when you book. Van der Meer Tennis UniversityBox 5902Hilton Head Island, SC 29938843/785-8388, 800/845-6138, vandermeertennis.com/ An instruction facility only, offering no accommodations ) the "University" has 28 courts: 25 Tru-flex, three clay, four covered/lighted, eight lighted; and a full-service pro shop. The staff stress that instruction is for players of all levels, from beginners to touring professionals, presented in "week-long" (five day) and weekend (three day) packages. The five-day camp includes 18 hours of instruction, video analysis and match play for $359; the weekend package is $259. Again, accommodations and meals are not included in rates. Dennis Van der Meer was chosen by the US Olympic committee as 1997's "Developmental Coach of the Year" and Tennis Magazine anointed him "Teaching Pro of the Decade." Van der Meer Tennis UniversitySweet Briar CollegeSweet Briar, VA800/845-6138, vandermeertennis.com/sweet-briar.htm In addition to Hilton Head, Dennis Van der Meer offers even more economical summer sessions (early June to early August) at Sweet Briar College in the Blue Ridge Mountain foothills.  A weekend session is $250. Each session has roughly 20 to 30 students, and this time includes campus lodging and cafeteria meals, as well as four hours of practice a day. While senior staff directs most sessions, each summer Dennis Van der Meer conducts one himself at Sweet Briar. Call ahead, or visit the Web site, to find out which one. By the by Sweet Briar College has quite a pleasant campus with 14 hard courts, a large gym, two lakes for swimming, boating and fishing, an Olympic-size indoor pool, an 18-station Parcours trail, two athletic fields, nature sanctuaries, and trails for walking, hiking, and jogging. Dorms are air-conditioned and the cafeteria has been recognized, believe it or not, as one of the best in the nation. A variety of main entrees and side dishes are offered with freshly baked pastries in the morning, and a large salad and sandwich bar for lunch and dinner. Mr. Van der Meer also conducts a few sessions in West Town and Mercersburg, PA as well as Boars Head, VA. Go to the Web site for more details. New England Tennis HolidaysP.O. Box 1648North Conway, NH 03860800/869-0949, netennisholidays.com/ Operated by former touring pro Clare Grabher (she ranked as high as No.125 in the world at one time) and her husband Kurt, New England Tennis holidays employs a number of tennis' most distinguished players including Mikael Pernfors, the only player to achieve back to back NCAA titles, and Bob Kaufman, who played Davis Cup for Switzerland. About half of its campers come alone, and, in fact, the camp is becoming as well known for its hopping nightlife as for the tennis. Evening entertainment includes karaoke, disco, visits to the local summer stock theater, movies and concerts in the park. Package rates are per person and include lodging, breakfast, lunch, dinner (excluding first night), tennis school five hours a day, taxes and dining gratuities. There are three lodging options: condos just up the hill from the tennis complex, a mountain lodge or inn, and a hotel. A stay in a condo or mountain lodge/inn for two days starts at $445, and five days runs at $1015, singles and inns add approximately $50. Rates are slightly higher from mid June till September. Swarthmore Tennis Campsc/o Tennis Camps Ltd.444 E. 82nd St., Suite 31-DNew York, NY 10028-5919212/879-0225, 800/ACE-2442, swarthmoretenniscamps.com/ Set on 325 acres of rolling woodland at Swarthmore College, this highly regarded camp has been in operation since 1979. Unlike many campus programs, which only offer only dormitory lodging, this one gives guests the option of staying at the lovely Ashton House, an 1880s Victorian guest house, or in modern hotel-type rooms with outdoor pool. Sessions run from the middle of June till mid-August, and prices range from $515 for a weekend session to $915 for a full week. Included is lodging, meals at the cafeteria on campus, five hours of instruction, a 4:1 student/teacher ratio, video taping, and one to three private lessons. Swarthmore is just 12 miles from downtown Philadelphia. Tennis resorts Harry Hopman's at Saddlebrook ResortSaddlebrook Resort5700 Saddlebrook WayWesley Chapel, FL 33543813/973-1111 x4200, 800/729-8383, saddlebrookresort.com/ Founded by Harry Hopman, legendary Davis Cup coach, the Harry Hopman Tennis Academy at Saddlebrook Resort has been called "arguably the best tennis resort in the nation." Players receive a minimum of five hours of daily tennis instruction, with never more than a 4:1 player/teacher ratio. A series of drills challenge the player to react instinctively to the ball, "without changing each individual's basic method or style of play." Location is on the grounds of a fine, four diamond resort, with four star restaurant, where guests also have access to two 18-hole golf courses designed by Arnold Palmer, The Arnold Palmer Golf Academy, a 500,000 gallon "Superpool," and a unique "Walking Village." A five-day Tennis Academy package including use of a one or two bedroom suite, five hours of daily instruction, video workout, fitness and agility exercises, fresh fruit and juice breaks, and video analysis, breakfast, and admission into the spa begins at $488 per person based on double occupancy from May-September. Rancho Valencia Resort5921 Valencia CircleRancho Santa Fe, CA 92067858/756-1123, 800/548-3664, ranchovalencia.com/ Costly and upscale, Rancho Valencia is meant for the traveler who enjoys tennis, but wants to explore other sporting and recreational activities as well. It has operated since 1989, a facility of 18 tennis courts, a friendly staff, personalized instruction, healthy but gourmet meals, and spacious rooms. As explained to me by its management, the tennis division here prides itself on having no rigid "philosophy" of tennis. Instead, they stress "working with the skills you arrive with to enhance your own game." At the same time, staff will give you better options (another stroke, better service, groundwork) to take your game to the next level. A "Love Package" of two nights and three days, per person double occupancy, is priced at $1,805, which includes accommodations, all breakfasts and one dinner, Swedish massage, and instruction. Topnotch Resort and Spa4000 Mountain RoadStowe, VT 05672802/253-8585, topnotch-resort.com/ In the shadow of Mount Mansfield, less than ten minutes from the ski lifts, this racket mecca features eight hard courts and a staff of skilled pros from around the world. In addition to drills, game matching and personal lessons, Topnotch's Tennis Academy offers sports psychology seminars, aerobic tennis classes (for those looking to lose weight) and video tape analysis. There are occasionally professional exhibitions as well. When off the court, guests have access to Topnotch's extensive spa facilities and of course, Stowe itself, one of the most charming resort towns in Vermont, with dozens of fine restaurants and shops as well as extensive nature and ski trails. A "Grand Slam" package runs at $443 per room, per night, while a "Tennis Challenge" is $337 a night. Tennis tours Grand Slam Tennis Tours112 S. Main St.Stowe, VT 05672802/244-6611, tennistrips.com/ Founded in 1990, Grand Slam Tours has helped over 6,000 tennis enthusiasts get seats and arrange accommodations and air to the major tournaments (Grand Slam and non). The company caters to all ages, families, as well as seniors and singles, and takes pride in its "hands-on approach," supplying a customized newsletter each morning to guests listing the play order, and giving suggestions for restaurants and sight-seeing. Trips are hosted by knowledgeable local guides, and seating locations for the matches is "unbeatable." Steve Furgal International Tennis Tours11808 Rancho Bernardo RoadSuite 123418San Diego, CA 92128858/675-3555, 800/258-3664, tours4tennis.com/ Anne and Steve Furgal founded International Tennis Tours in 1986 when Steve, a tennis pro, decided to encourage more travelers to enjoy the sport he was so passionate about. The company splits its efforts between high end custom tours under the name "International Tennis Tours," and an economy business under the name "Top Spin Tennis Tours;" both provide hotel accommodations and tickets to major tennis events. The firm's "Best of the Best," a Wimbledon tour, includes cabins on the QE2 to London, the best seats to Wimbledon, limousine service to and from the match, London theatre tickets, entrance to Madame Tussaud's, and deluxe accommodations. International Tennis Tours is now the official travel partner of the US Tennis Association. Championship Tennis Tours, Inc.7301 East Helm Dr., Suite A1Scottsdale, AZ 85260480/429-7700, 800/468-3664, tennistours.com/ Championship Tennis Tours offers packages and individual tickets to all the Grand Slam and Masters series events, 12 worldwide yearly, A truly international company which maintains offices in Australia, Brazil, France, Germany, Japan, Mexico and the United Kingdom, Championship tennis has excellent onsite staffing and is able to customize its tours to satisfy its varied clientele. Unlike most operators, they do not include airfare, thus enabling the traveler to stay on for an additional time after the match is over. WorldWide Tennis Tours2337 Oak Glenn CircleDuluth, GA 30096770/497-9494, 800/760-9009, geocities.com/worldwidetennistours Founded in 1988 by Kenny and Marina Hirsch, WorldWide Tennis Tours specializes in packages for both junior and senior enthusiasts. They organize trips to all the major tennis events, and include, as passengers, a wide range of ages, from 16 to 80. They pride themselves, they say, in personalized attention and do their best to accommodate everyone, to provide good seats to events, and to seek out pleasant but affordable lodging. In addition to trips to the major tennis championships, a specialty of the agency is the "Junior Tennis Tour," on which young American enthusiasts visit seven different European cities and engage in matches with local players. Days on tour are divided between tennis in the morning and early afternoon, and sightseeing in late afternoon. Often travelers get to stay with the families of their opponents, an authentic experience of the country. The cost for a Monte Carlo Open is $895 a person. Tennis resorts with other activities Whistler Racquet ClubWhistler, British Columbia604/932-1991, whistlertennis.com/ During the summer, the ski lifts at renowned Whistler Blackcomb in Canada's British Columbia carry a mix of hikers, mountain bikers, sightseers, and seasonally displaced skiers, the last headed for the year-round slopes of Blackcomb Glacier. Down in the pedestrian village, savvy tennis players have discovered a great unsung tennis bargain at the ten-court Whistler Racquet Club. Former Top 50 touring pro Marjorie Blackwood and her codirector and National Master Doubles Champion Peter Schelling run weekend clinics that pack a wealth of information into the mostly morning sessions, leaving afternoons free for other pursuits. The ten-hour Friday to Sunday sessions start at CAD$285 (US$197) and through the club you get great discounts at local hotels starting at CAD$105 (US$72) in July and August and CAD$89 (US$61) in spring and fall. Waterville Valley ResortWaterville Valley, New Hampshire800/468-2553, waterville.com/ A picturesque setting of red-clay courts in a forested valley exerts a gravitational pull on Waterville's guests, drawing them to adult and junior clinics in the morning, social round-robins in the afternoons, and free play or lessons anytime. There is a choice of lodging, from inns to five-bedroom condos, much of it near a compact village of shops and restaurants, plus a pond, a nine-hole golf course, and biking and hiking trails. Rates from June 20 to October 12 start at $109 per night for a room with two queen-size beds and come with an activity pass that provides unlimited free tennis, complimentary midweek greens fees, access to the fitness center, and more for everyone in the room. Go during "value season" (April 8 to June 19) and it's just $85 per night. Litchfield Beach & Golf ResortLitchfield Beach, South Carolina888/766-4633, litchfieldbeach.com/ Although it's located on the 60-mile beach known as the "Grand Strand," Litchfield has none of the honky-tonk cheesiness of its sister, Myrtle Beach, 18 miles to the north. Instead it wows guests with 17 active clay courts in a park-like setting, 54 holes of golf, and gentle prices. Players can sign up for a three-hour morning tennis school ($65) or join well-run-and usually well-attended-round-robins in the afternoons. At the height of summer, an inland hotel suite has nightly rates of $109. Wait until mid-August and that same suite is $79, and by mid-October it's just $59. And you can shave $5 to $10 off all those rates by opting for the nearby Litchfield Inn, on the beach south of the resort but with full resort privileges. Sea Colony ResortBethany Beach, Delaware800/732-2656, resortquestdelaware.com/ Route 1 slices through the middle of Sea Colony, dividing its beachfront towers from quiet residential neighborhoods of villas and homes. One of those neighborhoods surrounds a complex of 34 hard and clay courts-four of them indoors. Even in summer this lively venue distracts scores of players from sea and sand by serving up free court time, a lengthy menu of daily tennis activity-including sessions for juniors-conscientious game matching, and a fine stable of teaching pros. In fall the emphasis shifts to a series of weekend camps run by Dave Marshall, the resort's accomplished tennis director. Summer rates for a one-bedroom condo off the beach start at $693 per week (there's a seven-night minimum). After September 2, however, there's a nightly rate of $102 (for a two-night minimum), which goes down to $72 beginning October 14. Marshall's Friday to Sunday fall camp costs $150 for ten hours of instruction and supervised play.

If you like the outdoors and have an interest in history or conservation; if you're determined to take your children on an affordable but different sort of vacation with time for bonding and sharing; or if you would simply appreciate a vacation of learning and excitement in a safe and economical environment, then it's time to "cowboy up," as they say in Texas, and contact Passport in Time. PIT needs you. Who knows-perhaps you need PIT, too. People of all ages, from all walks of life, can participate in the U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service's Passport in Time program, which matches volunteers with projects of historic preservation, conservation, restoration, and archaeology throughout the United States. A biannually published catalog of current PIT projects lists so many activities, you're sure to find one that strikes your fancy. They range from archaeology (my own interest, and the source of my examples below) to surveys of Civil War sites, restoration of ranger stations or historic sites to laboratory analysis of artifacts or other scientific data. Most projects require at least a one-week commitment. Will it dig into my budget?Volunteers are not paid, but unlike many other programs, there is no fee to join. Your expenses are those you incur traveling to the site and feeding yourself while there. Most projects offer campsites for your tent, space for your RV or car, water, hookups, and toilet facilities. PIT provides all the tools and instruction. Some projects involving intense laboratory work provide free housing for volunteers in dormitories at local universities or in barracks maintained by the Forest Service. Many sites are located close to towns, villages, or resort areas where motels or rustic cabins are also available at low prices. Generally, you're on your own for food. On some projects, participants take turns cooking for their team. On others, everyone tends to their own grocery needs. (You'll work hard if you are on outdoor projects, so anything will taste good.) You live as simply or as lavishly as you like, but most volunteers opt for the savings and camaraderie of camping together and eating simple group meals. My last stint as a volunteer cost me the price of gasoline to drive from Texas to Arizona and one night in a budget motel with a senior citizen's discount. I bought food and snacks for myself. And on the last day of the project, I chipped in to provide food for a good-bye luncheon. That was all. I spent less than $100 for food for the 10-day trip. On another occasion, I stayed with other participants in a cabin nestled in a pine forest. It cost $46 per night split four ways, with full kitchen and bath. Almost free! Kids Can Dig it Every archaeology project has its complement of youngsters, although each project director sets age requirements for his or her program. Some activities might not be suitable for the very young. Many projects carry specific minimum-age requirements, but most allow kids under 18 years old as long as they are accompanied by a responsible adult, making PIT a rare, inexpensive opportunity for all kinds of participants. I recall a 13-year-old girl, Anna, who came to a dig with her single mom. Anna found evidence of a large pottery jar in a pueblo. Rather than calling on a more experienced volunteer or one of the staff to excavate it, the project director provided her with appropriate tools and instruction to excavate the find herself. Anna lay on her stomach for hours with dental tools and art brushes, meticulously freeing the piece from its resting place. When the jar was finally lifted out, the volunteers gathered with cameras as Anna beamed through a substantial coating of dirt. Singles Can Dig itWhen I arrived at the Forest Service site for my first project, I was stunned at how many single people were there-retired singles, widowed or divorced folks, and younger ones, too. Not only is it a great way to make new friends of all ages, it's also suited to single people (especially women) who want an adventurous vacation but have reservations about attempting it alone. The volunteers, bonded by the energy that comes from doing something selfless, quickly become a working "family," with all members looking out for each other. Solo travelers will seldom find a safer or more welcoming environment. Seniors Can Dig itI was amazed at the amount of rock that one volunteer, Don, could move. He also had a grasp of engineering that frequently eased the tasks at the dig site. When the rest of us pooped out, he rallied us. He kept up a steady stream of jokes. He flirted endlessly with the ladies. He was Superman! He was also 80 years old. For those who aren't as fit and athletic as Don, there are other gratifying things to do. I have met senior volunteers who were nurses, educators, pilots, and housewives. The one thing they had in common was their willingness to do useful work, be it in the laboratory or in the field. And since there's an application process, no one ended up on a project that didn't suit them. There is no such thing as "too old" on a PIT project. PIT's costs also appeal to seniors-or to anyone on a fixed income. Digging up the scoopTo obtain a copy of PIT Traveler, a newsletter containing upcoming projects along with the info you'll need to apply, contact: Passport in Time Clearinghouse, P.O. Box 31315, Tucson, AZ 85751-1315; or call 800/281-9176. This information is also available at passportintime.com.