Quebec City Courts the Crowds

Ever since Bogey and Bacall sailed away to Key Largo, the string of coral islands at the southern tip of Florida has captured the imagination of Americans with its promise of romance, breezes, and sparkling waters. Unfortunately, this bit of paradise doesn't come cheap, with glorified motels often charging in the mid-hundreds even in low season. This is most true in the most famous, and admittedly the prettiest, of the islands: Key West, that Victorian-era seafaring town that has lured artists, boaters, and colorful misfits alike for well over a century. Well, shady lanes and dollhouse inns are nice places to park your bags, but as proud tightwads we prefer to bunk and eat elsewhere in the Keys and check out the charms of Key West as a day trip. That being said, elsewhere in the Keys the gougers still outnumber the bargains by far, but we've identified the very best deals up and down Overseas Highway (also known as U.S. 1, the spine of these parts), with delightful rooms running as low as $45 and delicious dinners under $10. But first, a reality check: If visions of endless beaches and sugary sands are dancing in your head, the Florida Keys has something different in store. Some sand--in reality, eroded coral reef--but it tends to be coarse and the mangroves hugging much of the coastline can turn the water brackish. What these teeny tiny islands do offer is glorious scenery, wildlife, and some of America's best fishing, boating, snorkeling, scuba diving at some of the planet's most important reef systems. Which is not to say that all who come are marine maniacs: long and lazy days of sunning, reading, and swimming pool action are high on many a visitor's list. To get here, the best option is to fly on one of many budget airlines--JetBlue, Southwest, AirTran, Song--into Miami. Fort Lauderdale is usually cheaper, but adds about forty minutes to your drive down. Then rent a car (most run about $150 a week in high season, less on Priceline.com). The Florida Turnpike offers an uneventful 35-mile drive down through Homestead and Florida City, on the edge of the Everglades wilderness. From there, U.S. 1 threads another 30 miles through wetlands to Key Largo, the first and largest of the Florida Keys; from there it's another 100 miles or so to the end of the line--Mile Marker 0--in Key West. The highway skips from island to island, often alongside the crumbling railbed of the original overseas railway, built in 1912. Although the whole archipelago only takes about two hours to drive, choose your base depending on your tastes: diving (stay on Key Largo in the Upper Keys), history and culture (near Key West in the Lower Keys), or tropical seclusion (try any of the Middle Keys). The upper Keys Stretching 40 miles from Key Largo down to Tavernier and Islamorada, the Upper Keys offer convenience (decent shopping, near the mainland), as well as the terrific John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park ($2.50/person, Mile Marker 102.5, Key Largo, 305/451-1621). America's first underwater state park, it has a decent beach, nature trails through fascinating mangrove swamps, and stunning coral reefs where you can snorkel, scuba, or take a glass-bottom boat on the crystal-clear water. Stop also at the Florida Keys Wild Bird Center ($5 per car, MM 93.6, 305/852-4486, fkwbc.org/) for a stroll through its tropical hammock forest and a chance to see endangered local birds (pelicans, osprey) being nursed back to health. Islamorada is also one of the few places in the Keys where boaters have easy access to both the Atlantic Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico (Marathon and Key West are two others). For more serious nature lovers, a day trip 28 miles north to the Everglades National Park (enter via Florida City) offers a chance to see not just alligators and all manner of bird life, but also what South Florida was like before the arrival of cars and strip malls. Among the few reasonably priced lodgings hereabouts, three properties stand out: First as you drive south on Islamorada, at MM 99.5 are next-door neighbors Sunset Cove Resort (877/451-0705, sunsetcovebeachresort.com/) and the Hungry Pelican Resort (305/541-3576, hungrypelican.com/), two Gulfside getaways. They offer shaded, quirky bungalows within walking distance to the shops and eateries in town. Most are $65 to $90 with a range of amenities; some have kitchens, but count on AC, cable, and free breakfast. Sunset Cove, in particular, evokes the Keys' free-spirited vibe with its whimsical animal sculptures--lions, rearing bears, a big brontosaurus--dotting the grounds. At MM 86.6, turn left at the giant roadside lobster for the Ragged Edge Resort (243 Treasure Harbor Rd., MM 86.6; 800/436-2023, 305/852-5389, ragged-edge.com/), a cute Tahitian-style motel consisting of 11 simple but clean cottages on the ocean starting at $79. The grassy, sprawling property is a perfect place for birdwatching on the raised deck or unwinding by the oceanfront heated fresh-water pool. At MM85, Drop Anchor Resort, operated by owners that put value in quiet, good taste, and affordability, is a real find (305/664-4863, dropanchorresort.com/), offering 18 cottages and motel units with a pool (50s vintage but redone with a cool Caribbean flair), all with fridges and AC, on a 300-foot sandy beach beneath a coconut grove. Units are $70 to $95 depending on season and rise to $90 to $115 for the deluxe oceanfront apartments. Finally, divers should head for Kelly's On the Bay (104220 Overseas Highway, at MM104.2, Key Largo; 800/226-0415, aqua-nuts.com/), a full-service resort with a peppy staff where 34 fresh rooms start at $80 in the high winter season and go down to $70 in low. One-day scuba instruction costs $150 per person, including a boat trip. If you're already certified, dives on its custom boats' two daily departures will cost $22 to $30 per person, including tanks and weights, depending on how many you buy in advance. Snorkeling is $25 a trip. For good grub at a fair price, try Steve's Time Out Barbecue (101 Palm Avenue, at MM81.5, Islamorada; 305/664-8911), a simple, red-and-white-checkered-tablecloth kinda joint wafting with mouthwatering smells. Its menu is heavy on barbecue, of course, and the best deal may be the "triple header" combo platter with pork, beef, and pulled chicken, served with garlic bread, cole slaw, and a choice of baked beans or fries--all for $9.59. Since Havana is just 90 miles from Key West across the straits, the area is suffused with Cuban culture. The Marlin (10277 Overseas Highway, at MM102.5, Key Largo; 305/451-2454) serves Cuban delights such as picadillo, ground beef in a light tomato sauce with olives, capers, and raisins, for $6,including a choice of two sides. There's also fresh seafood on the order of blackened dolphin (the fish, not the mammal) for $10, again with two sides. Papa Joe's (70701 Overseas Highway, MM 79.3, 305/664-5005), a Jimmy Buffet-style marina-side bar, is a well-known place to sit on the water with a beer, a cup of conch chowder ($2.95) and its signature grouper reuben ($7.95). The one place not to miss, however, is the quirky Alabama Jack's (58000 Card Sound Rd.; 305/248-8741), located 25 minutes north of Key Largo on a quiet road through Card Sound, but worth the detour. This rustic melting pot, overlooking a mangrove-lined channel teeming with colorful fish and birds, is a trip back to a simpler time. The thing here is bodacious plates of fried grouper or legendary conch fritters, both served with two sides for $7.95. Try to stop by on weekend afternoons for the live country western band and fun mixed crowd. The middle Keys Keep alert on the road as you head southwest from Islamorada, for the views of the open sky and the sea are dotted with green islands, swooping pelicans, and shades of blue you never imagined. Highlights of this area include Pigeon Key, with a small museum and historical buildings dating to the construction of Henry Flagler's railroad; an audience with dolphins--the mammal, not the fish--at the Dolphin Research Center on Grassy Key ($17.50 but worth it; book plenty early if you want to book a personal swim with the creatures, 305/289-1121, dolphins.org/); the lovely Sombrero Beach at MM 50 on Marathon; and the amazing Seven Mile Bridge (actually a causeway) leading south of Marathon to the Lower Keys--as beautiful a drive as you'll find anywhere in America. Possibly the finest budget place to stay in the Florida Keys, the just-renovated Lime Tree Bay Resort (MM 68.5, Layton, Long Key; 800/723-4519; limetreebayresort.com/) could easily charge twice as much for its 31 sparkling and professionally-decorated rooms--but let's not tell them that. For a place that looks and feels like a small luxe resort, the rates are mindblowing: $79 for waterfront motel-style rooms in low season, $102 in high. There's also a great pool and jacuzzi overlooking the Gulf of Mexico, tennis courts, on-site watersports, and a sandy sunning beach with coral rock formations. Another excellent choice, the laid-back and basic Bonefish Bay Motel (12565 Overseas Highway, at mile marker 53.5, Marathon Shores; 800/336-0565, 305/743-7107, bonefish.com/) sits near the picturesque Bonefish Flats, where you can angle, not surprisingly, for bonefish. Don't confuse it with the similarly named, but crummy, "Resort" five miles up the road. Rates range $49 (simple rooms in fall) to $99 (one-bedroom efficiencies in peak season); there's a pool, free bikes, a dock, and a helpful staff. Finally, budget-minded fishing folk are lured, so to speak, by the Kingsail Resort Motel (7050 Overseas Highway, at MM 50.5, Marathon; 800/423-7474), featuring simple but pleasant motel rooms with phone, cable TV, screened porches, and AC for $55 to $69 in summer and $95 to $109 in winter. There's also a freshwater pool, a boat ramp, and docking, not to mention an outdoor grill for cooking up your day's catch. Speaking of cooking, the Middle Keys harbor really good budget options; Try the authentic Cuban fare at Don Pedro (11399 Overseas Highway, at MM 53, Marathon; 305/743-5247), a simple but pleasant joint where Ana and Miguel whip up entrees as low as $4.25 (chicken tenders and fries) and no higher than $9.95 (stuffed shrimp); don't miss its powerful $1.00 café cubano. Also not to miss, the beloved 7-Mile Grill (1240 Overseas Highway, Marathon; 305/743-4481), located just before the Seven Mile Bridge, is a salty-old-timey-open-air-big-beach-shack-with-sassy-waitresses kinda place, where $9.95 gets you a wide selection of fresh seafood (stuffed crabs, shrimp, conch fritters) served with two sides. Sandwiches are $3.25 to $6.95, and most locals herald its key lime pie ($3.25) as the very best in the Keys--and they know from key lime pie. The lower Keys Apart from the unparalleled drive over the Seven Mile Bridge, the main attraction in the Lower Keys is, of course, Key West, the only real city in the entire island chain, with its sizeable old town chockful of lovingly-restored gingerbread Victorian homes, and honky-tonk Duval Street. The big resorts there are pricey (see sidebar for alternatives). You will find much less expensive options, however, on the islands leading up to it. The best of these include the 524-acre, Bahia Honda State Park on Big Pine Key (30 miles before Key West), with its unusual flora and fauna, tidal lagoons, and long sandy beach, periodically named America's best; the Key Deer Refuge on Big Pine Key, with its adorable dog-sized deer (http://nationalkeydeer.fws.gov/); the superb diving at Looe Key National Marine Sanctuary; and the usual panoply of watersports. As for lodging, this stretch of the Keys is home to another star, the 45-unit Parmer's Resort (565 Barry Avenue, off MM 28.5, Little Torch Key; 305/872-2157,parmersresort.com/), a collection of pastel cottages on five tropical acres right on the Gulf. Its well-decorated, simple rooms, running $85 to $95 in high season and $65 to $75 in low, are an awesome bargain, considering the varied complimentary breakfast, bayfront swimming pool, aviaries scattered among wooded walkways, genuinely sweet staff, and boat basins and dockage. Less expensive but still quite pleasant, the Caribbean Village (1211 Overseas Highway, at MM 10.7, Big Coppitt Key; 305/296-9542) consists of three pretty pastel-colored Caribbean-style cottages with its own tiny sunning beach and dock. The plain but cheerful rooms start at $45 in low season, going up to $95 in high, though for ten more bucks, it's more fun to stay on one of the two docked houseboats. Perhaps one of the best ideas is renting one of the six-person cabins maintained by the state at Bahia Honda State Park (36850 Overseas Highway, Big Pine Key, MM 37, bahiahondapark.com/, reserve through 800/326-3521). Built on stilts above a pristine mangrove-lined inlet, they come with everything you need (linens, equipped kitchens, decks with grills and outdoor showers, AC and heat). All that costs just $85/night in the fall and $110 at other times, so it shouldn't surprise you that they book up early. For eats, Julio's Grill at Looe Key Reef Resort (27340 Overseas Highway, at MM 27.5, Ramrod Key, 305/872-2215) serves simple fare on the order of salads, sandwiches and seafood platters, the most expensive of which is the yummy $6.95 shrimp cooked in garlic with home fries. A more expansive menu is served at Shark's Reef Saloon (31095 Avenue A, at MM31, Big Pine Key, 305/872-9000), a quintessentially Keys baitshop-looking place with a long bar, pool tables, and a salty local crowd munching down on competently-executed dinner entrees ranging from $7.95 (country-fried steak) to $9.95 (an 8-ounce New York strip), all served with a choice of soup or salad, plus potato and vegetable. Finally, the nicest and perhaps most authentic budget-level option in the Lower Keys is the Key Deer Bar & Grill (28974 Overseas Highway, near MM31, Big Pine Key; 305/872-1014). Cozy and warm, it sports warm pine paneling, beamed ceilings, and whirring fans, not to mention the chance to meet a (stuffed) Florida panther close-up. It serves excellent pizzas (from $4.95), as well as pasta dinners (mussels marinara over linguine) with salad and garlic toast for $9.95 or less; the blackened chicken breast platter is also a winner at $8.95. For official information, call 800/352-5397 or go to fla-keys.com/

Perhaps you've always wanted to sail down the Nile, or drink tea with a carpet trader in Fez. Or maybe you dream of camel rides through the Sahara, laced with lazy evenings at lush oases. Whatever fantasies you harbor about that spectacular trip to the Middle East, chances are they've been on hold for the past couple of years. But that doesn't mean you should miss out on everything the region has to offer. More than 150,000 immigrants of Egyptian, Palestinian, Lebanese, Moroccan and other origins live in New York, making up one of the country's most vibrant Arab communities. In just one short weekend here, you can fill up on Syrian sweets, dance to live Algerian rai, smoke an Egyptian hookah and have enough money left to buy a Turkish trinket or two for the folks back home. Heavenly hummus, plate loads of pita The best way to start a Middle Eastern weekend in New York is with a delicious breakfast at Mogador Cafe, a Moroccan fixture popular with a hip, bohemian crowd. Mogador's big draw is a superb $9.95 prix fixe brunch, but I prefer a plate of perfection modestly labeled Middle Eastern eggs ($6.50): two eggs cooked any style served with creamy hummus; tangy tabouleh made with bulgur, parsley and tomatoes; chopped salad; and pita sprinkled with olive oil and thyme. (Mogador Cafe, 101 Saint Marks Place. 212-677-2226). For dinner, try Moustache, a casual Arabic eatery considered by many to be the best of its kind in Manhattan. Moustache's hot, fluffy pita works as a delightful scoop for their mezzeh appetizers such as smoky babaganoush ($4.50) or lentil salad ($4.50). Their entrees are mouthwatering too; try the baby lamb ribs, served juicy and tender with salad on the side ($13). Prepare for a long line at the West Village branch. (Moustache: 265 East 10th Street. 212-228-2022 / 90 Bedford Street. 212-229-2220) Just a few blocks away, the same owners have introduced a slightly more upscale Middle Eastern experience to the neighborhood. Named after a dynasty of former Turkish slaves who ruled Egypt from the 13th to 16th centuries, Mamlouk lavishes diners with a $30 six course meal. Let yourself be transported by the Arabic fusion tunes and a tasteful decor of lanterns, cushions and tiles, and be sure to book a table in advance because there are only two seatings per night. (Mamlouk 211 East 4th Street. 212-529-3477) An abundance of art The biggest thrill of any trip to the Middle East comes from its legacy as the so-called "cradle of civilization." Settled for more than five millennia by nations whose scientific and architectural achievements continue to baffle today, the region boasts a spectacular wealth of tradition and culture not to be missed. The best spot in New York to catch a glimpse of this old splendor is the Metropolitan Museum of Art (suggested donation $12), which houses one of the world's largest Ancient Egyptian collections. While there's no Pyramid to pose in front of here, the dazzling display of jewelry, mummies and paintings takes you to the same magical world inhabited by gods and Pharaohs thousands of years ago. You can even stroll through the Temple of Dendur, a 2,000-year old ruin which has been perfectly perserved in an especially built extension overlooking Central Park. For a more recent example of Middle Eastern art, check out the Met's intricately decorated Nur al-Din Room. Plucked from a wealthy Syrian home in the 1700's, it boasts ornate wooden panels decorated with gilded Koranic inscriptions, and a beautiful colored marble floor. (Metropolitan Museum of Art. 1000 Fifth Avenue. 212-535-7710) If it's contemporary art you're after, make a call to Alwan. One the most active Arab cultural venues in town, Alwan puts on several shows a week at its modest facilities in the financial district, featuring anything from traditional music concerts to poetry readings and photography exhibits .Admission usually costs $20 or less and you're almost guaranteed to catch some pretty good artists. (Alwan, 16 Beaver Street. 646-473-0991) Arabian nights Middle Eastern nightlife in New York revolves around three key elements: live music-much of it fusion jazz or modern rai (an infectious kind of rock developed by North African immigrants in France), hookahs (water pipes used for smoking fruit-flavored tobacco), and belly dancing. Tagine, a Moroccan restaurant with a lousy kitchen and a great bar, books some excellent bands and belly dancers. Friday and Saturday nights are packed, so call ahead.(Tagine Dining Gallery: 537 9th Avenue, 212-564-7292, $15 cover most nights.) For a more atmospheric, albeit slightly pretentious spot to watch a belly dancer, head to Casa La Femme, a lavish Egyptian restaurant on the Upper East Side. Brace yourself for bankrupting cocktails ($12 and up), but the ambience is hard to beat: cushions lie scattered about, tents line the walls, and cool Arab drum beats weave their way through the crowd. (Casa La Femme. 1076 First Avenue, 212-505-0005) If you're in the mood for some mellower entertainment, try Cafe Cairo, where you can play chess, backgammon or dominoes for hours, sipping tea or coffee and listening to Egyptian street pop from a rickety stereo. Definitely sample the hookah ($10), a water pipe used for smoking tobacco soaked in fruit syrups. Traditional flavors include strawberry, apple and honey, although novelties like cola and cappuccino are making the rounds now too. (Cafe Cairo. 189 East Houston Street, 212-529-2923) Shopping, shopping and more shopping What's an exotic vacation to the ends of the earth without some souvenirs to prove you were there? From elegant kilim rugs to coffee beans scooped from large burlap sacks, New York's Middle Eastern stores stock gifts for every budget. If you just have a few dollars to spare, check out Brooklyn's Atlantic Avenue. Dotted with Arab video stores, travel agencies and delis whose windows are stacked with imported treats, Atlantic Avenue serves as a popular shopping drag for Brooklyn's large Arab contingent. Sahadi, famous for its eclectic selection of dried nuts, grains and spices, is a New York landmark where you can also buy old fashioned candy and a variety of olives by weight. (Sahadi Importing Company, 187 Atlantic Avenue. 718-624-4550) A few doors up, Damascus Bakery churns out hundreds of pitas every day for sale to many of the city's restaurants and supermarkets. Eastern pastries make great gifts because they stay fresh for a long time, so load up on baklava or konafa ($2), a dessert of crispy angel-hair filled with nuts and soaked in fragrant syrup. (Damascus Bread and Pastry Shop. 195 Atlantic Avenue. 718-625-7070) For a shopping experience that's easier on the hips, visit Tribal Concepts, a crammed, winding store that feels like a real oriental bazaar. From hand-painted Turkish bowls and evil eye ornaments made of blue and white glass, to Afghan runners and upholstered chests, this established Upper West Sider offers good value for the money and some really beautiful goods. (Tribal Concepts. 231 West 58th Street. 212-957-6504.)

As the Republican Convention unfolds in New York, the drama will be mostly focused on platform planks, policy, speechmaking, sound bites and the like. There will be characters of all sorts paraded across the stage, and New York will become a mere backdrop for lots of partisan politics and protests. But for those in search of the Big Apple's real spirit, it would behoove both visiting Republicans and full-time New Yorkers alike to take a tour of the sites that have become more familiar courtesy of Woody Allen, whose films serve as loving, visual (and sometimes neurotic) reminders of what makes New York such a personally affecting place. Woody's New York is an authentic New York; as much about offbeat delis and street corners as it is about skylines and museums. So if you're ready to walk off some angst, then let's visit some of Woody Allen's most memorable New York filming locations. 1977 - Annie Hall Considered by many to be his best ever, the bittersweet story of a quirky neurotic named Annie Hall did as much for alternative female fashions as it did for the filmmaker's career. All of a sudden, women were wearing men's ties, vests and hats, and Woody was viewed as more of an "artist" who dealt with adult themes and humor versus some of his lighter works (i.e. Sleeper and Love and Death). Autobiographical or not, Annie Hall won Oscars that year for Best Picture, Best Actress (Diane Keaton), Director (Woody Allen), and Original Screenplay. Some of the film's more memorable landmarks include the Beekman Theatre, located at 1254 Second Avenue. This is where Alvy Singer (Woody) is accosted by a fan who recognizes him (when Annie is late for the movie and Alvy is waiting outside for her.) Another theater, the Thalia Cinema, was once located at 250 West 95th Street. Torn down in 1987, this was where Alvy bumped into Annie (as she takes her new boyfriend to see The Sorrow and the Pity) at the ending to Annie Hall. As far as Annie's apartment goes, while the exact location remains a mystery, it was definitely located somewhere on 70th Street between Lexington and Park Avenues. 1979 - Manhattan Manhattan remains a favorite of most Woody Allen aficionados. Shot in stark black and white and set to a powerful Gershwin score, it dealt with awkward adult themes in a genuinely touching manner, and featured a wonderfully sinister turn by Meryl Streep (as Woody's estranged, now-lesbian ex). A young Mariel Hemingway played Woody's teenage love interest in the film, and it was at John's Pizzeria (278 Bleecker Street in Greenwich Village) where she broke the news to him that she was off to London to study. A real-life haunt of Woody's, the classic New York restaurant Elaine's, (1703 Second Avenue between East 88th and East 89th Street) is where the film opens, with Woody waxing on to his friends about the trials and tribulations of dating a 17-year old. The iconic poster image for the film of Woody and Diane Keaton seating on a bench together was shot at Riverview Terrace on Sutton Square, just beneath the 59th Street Bridge on the east side of Manhattan. Perhaps the most famous scene from the movie, this is where Woody and Diane Keaton watch the sun come up together, in the shadow of the bridge. (There's no longer a bench located where the pair sat.) 1984 - Broadway Danny Rose This 1984 effort focused on the career of Danny Rose, a small-time, two-bit Broadway talent agent whose roster of hopeless, hapless clients and bad luck send him on a series of adventures, recalled by some old Borscht belt comedians who swap Danny Rose stories at one of New York's most famous delis, The Carnegie. Another real life spot frequented by Woody Allen over the years, it remains virtually unchanged since the film and also stands as one of the most authentic New York culinary experiences. The Carnegie Deli is located at 854 Seventh Avenue. 1986 - Hannah and Her Sisters Another critical and box office success, Hannah and Her Sisters focused primarily on the complex lives and relationships of several women (including "Hannah," played Mia Farrow) and also featured wonderful performances by Michael Caine, Max Von Sydow and Maureen O'Sullivan, among others. A sophisticated, deeply emotional (and also very funny) film, Hannah and Her Sisters featured many New York City locations. Pomander Walk, located at 260-266 West 95th Street (through to 94th Street) is where the architect (played by Sam Waterston) takes Dianne Wiest and Carrie Fisher on a favorite building tour, including a walk through this beautiful mock-Tudor village.The Langham, located at 135 Central Park West, was where Hannah lived and where her memorable Thanksgiving dinners were held each year. The St. Regis-Sheraton Hotel (2 East 55th Street) is where Michael Caine and Barbara Hershey conducted their clandestine affair after meeting at the Pageant Print and Book Store (now the Central Bar), located at 109 East Ninth Street in the East Village. 1989 - Crimes and Misdemeanors One of Allen's most poignant films, Crimes and Misdemeanors posed deeply philosophical questions of moral absolutes (cut with several comedic layers, including a brilliant turn by Alan Alda as a successful television producer). The themes of morals, values and ethics were played out across a wide Manhattan stage, including the Bleecker Street Cinema in Greenwich Village. Unfortunately, the theater no longer exists (it had been located at 144 Bleecker Street and is now a video store). In the film, this is where Woody takes his niece to see movies he feels will make her a better person. (The theater is also where Aidan Quinn worked as a projectionist in the Madonna movie, Desperately Seeking Susan.) Alda offers Woody a job (directing a biography about him) at the elegant Tavern on the Green restaurant, located on Central Park West at 67th Street. And the big wedding party that ends the film was staged in the world-famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel, located at 301 Park Avenue. 1992 - Husbands and Wives A novel, documentary-style of shooting distinguishes Husbands and Wives, a layered drama dealing with marital, post-marital and extra-marital relationships. In the film, Mia Farrow's has lunch with the newly-single Judy Davis at the Dean & Deluca Café, located at 121 Prince Street in SoHo. Sidney Pollack and his airhead girlfriend go to the movies at the 68th Street Playhouse, located at Third Avenue and 68h Street. 1993 - Manhattan Murder Mystery The basis for this film came from several ideas originally rejected for Annie Hall, which (believe it or not) started out as a murder mystery. Re-teamed with Diane Keaton, Allen and Keaton play a married couple who suspect that their neighbor may have killed his wife. Elaine's is feature once again, as is the venerable 21 Club at 21 West 52nd Street. A body is discovered at the fictitious Hotel Waldron, which in reality is the exterior of the Hotel 17, located at 225 East 17th Street. The interior is a more famous hotel, the Chelsea Hotel, located at 222 West 23rd Street. One of the most famous artist hotels in the world, the Chelsea has been home to everyone from Dylan Thomas to Bob Dylan. 1994 - Bullets Over Broadway An ode to the Damon Runyon-era of the Great White Way, Bullets Over Broadway featured one of Allen's best ensemble casts, including Dianne Wiest, John Cusack and Chazz Palminteri. The Belasco Theater, 111 West 44th Street, is where playwright Cusack gets his play staged (backed by mob money). For the Three Deuces Nightclub, Allen used the ballroom of the New Yorker Hotel, located at 481 8th Avenue (which he had also used for a scene in 1987's Radio Days.). New York City remains one of the great "characters" in many Woody Allen films; a living, breathing movie set that's as integral to the story as the actors and actresses. So if you're in town for the convention and you want to experience a true slice of the Big Apple, take a look at some of the cinematic spots he's helped immortalize. And of course, if you live here, it's never too late for a "Woody Walking Tour." Chris Epting is the author of six books including James Dean Died Here, The Location's of America's Pop Culture Landmarks and the sequel, Marilyn Monroe Dyed Here, MORE Locations of America's Pop Culture Landmarks, from Santa Monica Press. He is currently at work on a new pop culture/travel book.

With its dramatic topography, ethereal fog, appealing architecture, bodacious dining, and adventurous outlook, the City by the Bay would seem to have it all -- and in the 1990s, that came to include some of America's highest prices. Fortunately, Silicon Valley's dot-bomb crash has lowered food and lodging prices without seriously damaging the city's spirit (in fact, plenty of folks are just tickled pink). Take a look at the following, and you can leave your heart in San Francisco without leaving your nest egg. 1. No-Cal combos Air/hotel combination packages can save you a bundle right from the start. An example: For departures on selected Mondays in August, America West Vacations (800/356-6611, americawestvacations.com/) offers airfare plus three nights at the San Francisco Hotel Cosmo beginning at $461 from Philadelphia or $475 from Miami. They also offer a three night air-hotel package at the San Francisco Drake Hotel for $515 from Philadelphia, $529 from Miami. A five-night package in March at the Clarion Bedford starts at $430 from Phoenix, $593 from Colorado Springs, or $596 from Newark. Other package purveyors include United Vacations (800/328-6877, unitedvacations.com/) and Delta Vacations (800/654-6559, deltavacations.com/). 2. Passing through Manic museum-goers may want to avail themselves of the CityPass, which for $36 includes a seven-day Muni Passport (see below) and admission to the Museum of Modern Art, the Exploratorium, Palace of the Legion of Honor, California Academy of Sciences/Steinhart Aquarium, and a one-hour bay cruise. But you'll need to do all four far-flung museums, or the cruise plus two museums, just to break even compared with full-price admission. Buy the pass at the first attraction you visit, or online at citypass.net/. Call 888/330-5008 for more info. 3. Down under--or halfway to the stars At $3, a ride on a cable car is still one of the city's cheapest thrills. But they're just a tiny part of the city's extensive transit network, known as Muni. Bus and streetcar fares are $1.25 (exact change); transfers are free (upon request when fares are paid) and can be used for any two more rides within 90 minutes to two hours. For unlimited rides throughout the system, buy a Muni Passport -- $6 for one day, $10 for three, or $15 for seven (if you're in town Monday through Sunday, consider buying the weekly Muni pass the locals use -- only $9, plus another $1 per cable car ride). Buy it at the airport information booths near the baggage claim, the Visitors Information Center at Hallidie Plaza, and the cable-car turnarounds, among other places. Get yourself a system map for $2 at the info booths or most bookstores. Details: 415/673-6864, transitinfo.org/muni 4.Virtual visitors bureau Get invaluable free orientation information before you leave at www.sfvisitor.org, which offers an overview of attractions and downloadable self-guided walking tours. Or download free "Diverse City Destinations" touring itineraries at destinationsf.com/ (or request them from the San Francisco Convention & Visitors Bureau at 415/391-2000 or P.O. Box 429097, San Francisco, CA 94142; you pay postage). Upon arrival, pick up these brochures, along with maps, transit info, and more, at the Visitor Information Center at Hallidie Plaza; Powell and Market Streets (next to the cable car turnaround). 5. Bay area beds Yes, Virginia, there are affordable hotels in San Francisco, including the charming San Remo Hotel near Fisherman's Wharf (2237 Mason St., 800/352-7366 or 415/776-8688, doubles $65 to $95, all sharing spotless bathrooms) and the Mosser Victorian Hotel near the Convention Center (54 Fourth St., 800/227-3804, 415/986-4400, doubles from $59, with bath from $89). The motels lining Lombard Street west of Van Ness often have rooms for less than $100; ask for one facing away from the busy highway; amiable standouts are the Mediterranean-style Marina Motel (2576 Lombard St., 800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406, doubles from $75 in winter, $109 summer) and the Marina Inn (3110 Octavia St., 800/274-1420 or 415/928-1000, doubles from $65 winter, $85 summer). Two delightful (and economical) bed-and-breakfasts in the colorful Haight-Ashbury district are the Red Victorian (1665 Haight St., 415/864-1978, doubles from $86 with shared bath, discounts for three days or longer) and Inn 1890 (1890 Page St., 888/466-1890 or 415/386-0486, doubles from $89 with bath). Also try contacting Bed and Breakfast San Francisco (800/452-8249 or 415/899-0060, bbsf.com/), which arranges stays in private homes starting at $65 a night. 6. Muni-ficent sights Skip the overpriced bus tours and do it yourself on a $1 Muni fare. Ride the #45 through Chinatown, North Beach, and Union Street's boutiques; walk north three blocks and take the #28 to the Golden Gate Bridge. Or catch the F Line at Fisherman's Wharf and ride the vintage streetcar along the Embarcadero and Market Street to the Castro district, a longtime gay mecca. For a more leisurely excursion, take the #6, #7, or #71 to the fabled Haight-Asbury neighborhood, then up the side (though not to the top) of Twin Peaks. 7. Hostel maneuvers Hostelling International's top property, the HI-SF Fisherman's Wharf, boasts what may be the country's most beautiful urban hostel, with views of cypress groves, Alcatraz, and the Golden Gate Bridge (Upper Fort Mason, Building 240, 800/909-4776 or 415/771-7277, from $22.50 for beds in dorms or from $67.50 for a three person private room with key). The two-year old HI-SF City Center hostel (685 Ellis St., 800/909-4776 or 415/474-5721; dorm beds from $22, private rooms from $66) makes up for the edgy neighborhood with fancy trimmings--the lobby floor is marble. For a funky and friendly experience, try Pacific Tradewinds Guest House (680 Sacramento St., sanfranciscohostel.org/ 800/486-7975 or 415/433-7970, dorm beds $17 to $25), a private hostel that's laid-back and centrally located. 8. Over hills, over deals Why pay $15 to $40 for a guided walking tour? City Guides, a program of the San Francisco Public Library, offers dozens of guided tours each week absolutely free (or for a small voluntary donation). Themes run the gamut, from Victoriana to Chinatown to the history of the Golden Gate Bridge. Get schedules at 415/557-4266, sfcityguides.org/, the Hallidie Plaza Visitors Information Center, or any city library. 9. SF from SFO Taxis will run $35 to $45, but the cheapest way in from San Francisco airport is BART, which takes only 22 minutes (or so) from the airport right into town and costs under $5 to most central SF stops. From the Oakland Airport, take them ($27 or more to downtown SF), the AC Transit express bus (510/839-2882), route A ($5), or the AirBART shuttle ($2 tickets sold by the machines in terminals 1 and 2; once at the Coliseum station, you'll pay another $2.95 for your BART connection into San Francisco). 10. Ethnic eats Ethnic restaurants are mighty easy on the budget. For example, think noodles--a full meal in a bowl under $7: Try the Japannese version at Mifune (1737 Post St., in Japan Center's Kintetsu Building, 415/922-0337), Vietnamese at PPQ (2332 Clement St., 415/386-8266), or pan-Asian at Citrus Club (1790 Haight St., 415/387-6366). The city's best burritos are at El Balazo (1654 Haight St., 415/864-8608), La Canasta (take-out only; 3006 Buchanan St., 415/474-2627), and La Taqueria (iffy neighborhood, bustling restaurant; 2889 Mission St., 415/285-7117). In Italian North Beach, order roast chicken with two sides for under $11 at Gira Polli (659 Union St., 415/434-4472) or Il Pollaio (555 Columbus Ave., 415/362-7727); shovel in a four course dinner -- ministrone, salad, pasta of the day, and spumoni -- for $16.00 at Capp's Corner (1600 Powell St., 415/989-2589). Dim sum lunches in Chinatown yield small plates of tasty dumplings for no more than $2.60 a plate at New Asia (772 Pacific Ave., 415/391-6666) and Gold Mountain (644 Broadway, 415/296-7733). On Clement Street's burgeoning Little Asia, between Second and 27th Streets, you'll find block after block of Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian, Thai, Korean, even Burmese -- all at rock-bottom prices. 11. Go soak yourself Weekdays before 5 p.m. for just $15, have a luxurious soak and spend all day in the sauna, steam room, and communal baths at Kabuki Springs & Spa (1750 Geary Blvd., 415/922-6000) -- and perks like sea salts, chilled cucumber face cloths, and tea are on the house (treatments like massages and facials will cost you, though -- $50 and up). Baths are men-only and women-only on alternate days (on coed Tuesdays, swimsuits required); call ahead for the schedule. On evenings and weekends the basic rate goes up to $18. 12. Cultured pearls Get half-price, same-day tickets to plays, concerts, dance, and more at the TIX Bay Area booth (Union Square Garage, Geary Street entrance, 415/433-7827), open Tuesday to Saturday. Standing-room tickets for the opera and ballet are a mere $10 (cash only, one per person) as of 10 a.m. (opera) or noon (ballet) on the day of performance. As for the symphony, a Wednesday-morning open rehearsal ticket's only $18 -- including free coffee and donuts (call 415/864-6000 for dates and details). Other good venues with concerts $12 or less: Old First Church (1751 Sacramento St., 415/474-1608) and the San Francisco Conservatory of Music (1201 Ortega St., 415/759-3475). Noontime Concerts (noontimeconcerts.org/) presents classical music Wednesdays at St. Patrick's Church (756 Mission St.) and first and third Tuesdays at Giannini Auditorium in the Bank of America Center (555 California St.); admission $5. Join in the free Sunday morning "celebration" at Glide Memorial Church (330 Ellis St., 415/674-6000), where the choir bursts forth with jazz, blues, and gospel. The line forms 40 minutes before the 9 a.m. and 11 a.m. celebrations; get there early. 13. Park it here Golden Gate Park gets all the glory, but there are other great green contenders. The vast Presidio has miles of wooded trails and a restored tidal marsh; for a schedule of free guided walking tours, call 415/561-4323. On a smaller scale, Lafayette Park (Washington between Gough and Laguna Sts.) overlooks the flamboyant Spreckels Mansion and offers stunning bay views. And don't leave town without strolling tucked-away, pedestrian-only paths such as leafy Macondray Lane (off Leavenworth between Union and Green Sts.) or the steep, flower-bordered Filbert Street Steps (between Coit Tower and Sansome St.). 14. Approaching wharf speed Tourist central, Fisherman's Wharf assaults with overpriced kitsch everywhere you turn. Mere blocks away is a more authentic waterfront experience where admission is free: the San Francisco Maritime Museum (Polk and Beach Sts., 415/561-7100), which explores local seafaring history through ship models, figureheads, and vintage photos. For $5, walk aboard the historic ships berthed at Hyde Street Pier (foot of Hyde St., 415/775-2665), and a $10 pass will get you onto the vintage ships as well as the World War II submarine USS Pampanito at nearby Pier 45 (415/775-1943, submarine alone $8). And there's no charge to view the lumbering, adorable sea lions off Pier 39. 15. Radio days One of the best cheap seats in town is West Coast Live, the Saturday-morning variety show broadcast on public radio KALW (91.7 FM), with guests like Robin Williams, Elmore Leonard, and Garrison Keillor. Check the schedules/venues and reserve your $12 ticket at 415/664-9500 (or pay $14 at the door) or visit wcl.org/. 16. Weighing anchor Some say Anchor Brewing Company (1705 Mariposa St.) and its Anchor Steam Beer started the microbrew revolution 30 years ago. See it made and taste the finished product on a free tour (by reservation only; call 415/863-8350). 17. Summer of love-them-freebies Summer brings a plethora of gratis performances: SFJAZZ's outdoor concerts (sfjazz.org/); People in Plazas' blues, rock, funk, country, and world music in downtown open spaces (marketstreet.citysearch.com/); Free Shakespeare in the Park (800/978-7529 or 415/422-2222, sfshakes.org); music and dance at Stern Grove (415/252-6252, sterngrove.org/); and puppets, opera, and ethnic arts at Yerba Buena Gardens Festival (415/543-1718, ybae.org/). For listings, pick up a free Bay Guardian or SF Weekly at libraries, coffeehouses, and newsstands. 18. Steal this art The stately California Palace of the Legion of Honor (Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave., 415/750-3600) displays 4,000 years of ancient and European art; show your Muni Passport or transfer to save $2 off the $8 admission (free on Tuesdays). Ogle fine art, antiques, and books before auction at Butterfields (220 San Bruno Ave.). Call 415/861-7500 for auction schedules. For cutting-edge contemporary, visit the downtown galleries, especially Paule Anglim (14 Geary St., 415/433-2710), John Berggruen (228 Grant Ave., 415/781-4629), Fraenkel (49 Geary St., 415/981-2661), and Stephen Wirtz (49 Geary St., 415/433-6879). Shave half off the $10 admission to the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art (151 Third St., 415/357-4000) any Thursday from 6 p.m. to 8:45 p.m.; on the first Tuesday of the month, admission's free. San Francisco has more murals per capita than any other American city, and it costs nothing to view the WPA-era murals at Coit Tower (1 Telegraph Hill, 415/362-0808) and the Beach Chalet (1000 Great Hwy., 415/386-8439), or those celebrating Hispanic culture on Balmy Alley (off 24th St. between Treat and Harrison Sts.). 19. Literary license San Francisco prides itself on its literary heritage, and City Lights Bookstore (261 Columbus Ave., 415/362-8193), ground zero for Bay Area Beat culture in the 1950s, is still a browser's haven. The busiest bookshops for free lectures and readings by authors are A Clean Well-Lighted Place for Books (601 Van Ness Ave., 415/441-6670), Stacey's (581 Market St., 415/421-4687), and Modern Times (888 Valencia St., 415/282-9246). Consult the pink "Datebook" section of the Sunday San Francisco Chronicle ($1.50) for other lecture listings. 20. Giant deal Plutocrats pay $200-plus just to get first crack at Giants tickets, and most games sell out. But 500 bleacher seats are held back for same-day sale every game, and one of them can be yours for as little as $10. Be at Candlestick -- er, PacBell Park (Third and King Sts., 415/972-2000) four hours before game time; if more than 500 fans show up, the tickets are distributed by lottery. Go to sfgiants.com for more details. Your best shot at getting in the gate is midweek early in the season. While you're waiting, walk all the way around the new ballpark -- even from the outside, it's a showpiece.