Timeshares: A Yearly Vacation or Just an Expensive Frustration?

Pack up the car and let's hit the road. In the pages ahead, I'll clue you in on 10 of America's best--and most affordable--drives. Choose your favorite place: the mountains, the beach, big-sky prairie country, the luxuriant gardens of the South. Road trips surely rank as one of the most convenient, rewarding, and least expensive ways to vacation. Great for families, they don't take much planning, and you can go anytime. And you get to see the country's most spectacular scenery, while learning about its history firsthand. I like to break up the time behind the wheel with a hike, a swim, or another outdoor activity. Read on, and I'll tell you where to soak in a giant hot-springs pool, slide down a steep sand dune on an improvised sled, or simply sip (for free) the latest vintages at a quality vineyard. These 10 drives represent the amazing variety of America's road trips. For breathtaking views, head for Colorado's sky-high San Juan Mountains. For pioneer history, it's Nebraska's Pony Express country. Explore Native American life on Arizona's Navajo and Hopi reservations. All but one of these drives can be covered in three days. At each overnight stop, I've recommended good, inexpensive places to stay and eat. Or camp out to really save vacation bucks. Nebraska's pioneer paths More than any other prairie state, Nebraska epitomizes the pioneer spirit; America's westward expansion marched wholly across its wide river valleys and rolling hills. This 425-mile drive also introduces you to Nebraska's wide-open spaces and its beautiful green landscape. Countless streams wander the countryside, which is splashed liberally with lakes and ponds. Their cool water and shady banks are a respite from the summer sun. Getting there Fly into Omaha, which is served by several low-cost airlines: America West, Frontier, and Southwest. Day one Take I-80 west to Lincoln, connecting to U.S. 77 south to the Homestead National Monument of America in Beatrice. The park marks one of the first 160-acre plots granted free to settlers under the Homestead Act of 1862. Settlers fought drought, grass fires, locusts, harsh winters, and loneliness to survive. The museum tells their story. Stroll a replica of the tall-grass prairie the newcomers found. Stay/dine Beatrice at the 64-room Beatrice Inn (800/232-8742), $47. Also, the 44-room Victorian Inn (402/228-5955), $47. Day two Just west on U.S. 136, join up briefly with the Oregon Trail at Rock Creek Station State Historical Park. Once the site of a Pony Express station, the park preserves the deep ruts of wagon trains. Hurry on to Red Cloud, a sleepy farm town renowned as the childhood home of Willa Cather. Tour the tiny gabled house where she enjoyed the privacy of an attic room. West of Red Cloud, turn north on Nebraska Route 10. Learn how to build a sod house at Fort Kearny State Historical Park, which preserves a replica of the 1848 fort built to protect the Oregon Trail. (Yes, Fort Kearny--without an e--is located in Kearney, with the e.) Stay Kearney at the 59-room Motel 6 (308/338-0705), $41. Also, the 34-room Midtown Western Inn (800/333-1401), $50. Dine USA Steak Buffet. Day three Follow U.S. 30/U.S. 26 past Ogallala. Swim at 35,700-acre Lake C.W. McConaughy, a state recreation area. See more wagon ruts at Ash Hollow State Historical Park. At Scotts Bluff, an Oregon Trail National Monument, climb to the top. Visit the Oregon Trail Museum. Stay Scottsbluff at the 55-room Super 8 (308/635-1600), $55. Also, the 49-room Comfort Inn (308/632-7510), $62. Dine Shari's Restaurant. Info: 800/228-4307, visitnebraska.org/. California's redwood coast In its northern half, this 400-mile drive north from San Francisco to Crescent City tunnels through mist-shrouded groves of coastal redwoods. Towering 300 feet, these ancient giants are earth's tallest living things. In the south, California Route 1 snakes high alongside sheer ocean cliffs, then plunges back down in tight curves to rock-filled coves that invite exploring. Getting there Fly into Oakland or San Jose; both are served by America West and Southwest, among others. Day one Take California Route 1 across the Golden Gate Bridge, a worthy gateway. Up the road, stroll three-mile-long Stinson Beach, a local favorite. Save half the day for Point Reyes National Seashore, a sprawling park encompassing forests of wind-sculpted pines and miles of empty beach. Hike easy Bear Valley Trail, an eight-mile path (round trip) meandering through eucalyptus woods to an arched rock by the sea. Stay In the park at the 44-bed Point Reyes Hostel (415/663-8811), $16 per bed, or nearby in Inverness at the 26-room Golden Hinde Inn (415/669-1389), $90. Dine Station House Café in Point Reyes Station. Day two Beyond Bodega Bay, California Route 1 edges Sonoma Coast State Beach for 16 miles, offering plenty of beach play. Stop next at Fort Ross State Historic Park, a rebuilt fort on the site of an 1812 Russian outpost. The art colony of Mendocino is a picture-book Victorian village with the prettiest front yard in America. A grass-covered bluff, it's laced with Pacific-view paths. Stay Nearby in Fort Bragg at the 50-room Fort Bragg Motel (707/964-4787), $49 weekdays/$69 weekends. Also, the 48-room Chelsea Inn & Suites (707/964-4787), $59 except Saturday, when rates can be much higher. Dine Mendo Bistro. Day three Pick up U.S. 101 and enter Redwood Country. At Humboldt Redwoods State Park, detour onto the Avenue of the Giants, a majestic stand. At Redwood National Park, hike the mile-long loop in Lady Bird Johnson Grove--more stately redwoods. Stay Crescent City at the 65-room BayView Inn (800/446-0583), $64. Also, the 48-room Gardenia Motel (707/464-2181), $50. Dine Harbor View Grotto. Info: 800/462-2543, gocalif.ca.gov/. Oregon coast White-tipped waves, heavy with muscle, crash ashore in antic frenzy on Oregon's rugged coast. With a clap of thunder, they splash high against rocky cliffs like geysers and then, a moment later, slip away, spent, to gather strength again. A grand spectacle of nature, it's endlessly repeated along the state's 360-mile shoreline. Countless public beaches dot the way. Go beachcombing, crabbing, agate hunting. Explore tidal pools. Getting there Fly into Portland, which is served by a quartet of discount airlines--Southwest, America West, Frontier, and Sun Country. Day one From Portland, take U.S. 30 northwest along the Columbia River to Astoria. Visit the Columbia River Maritime Museum, an introduction to coastal seafaring life. On U.S. 101 south, stop at Fort Clatsop National Memorial, a re-creation of the hewn-log outpost where the Lewis and Clark Expedition wintered in 1805-06. Stay In the funky beach resort of Seaside at the 53-room Motel 6 (503/738-6269), $65 weekdays/$70 weekends. Also, the 26-room Royal Motel (888/345-1012), $65 weekdays/$75 weekends, or the 56-bed Hostelling International Seaside (503/738-7911), $20 per bunk for nonmembers, $17 for members. Dine Rob's Family Restaurant. Day two Continue south on U.S. 101. At Ecola State Park, check out the "sea stacks," giant offshore rocks scattered down the coast. In Tillamook, stop at the Tillamook Cheese plant for free samples. Detour west onto Three Capes Scenic Drive to keep the sea in view. Catch some rays on the beach. Heading on south, learn about (and perhaps see) gray whales at the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area. Stay Beachfront in Newport at the 62-room Waves Motel (800/282-6993), $63 weekdays/$73 weekends. Also, the 43-room Econo Lodge (541/265-7723), $52/$67 with ocean view. Dine clam fritters with fries, Chowder Bowl at Nye Beach. Day three Ahead on U.S. 101 are the best behind-the-wheel sea views yet. Pause at Cape Perpetua to watch crashing waves up close in the Devil's Churn. The massive sand dunes at Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area are a beach gone wild. Sled the dunes (on a cardboard box) at Jessie M. Honeyman Memorial State Park; swim in the park's Cleawox Lake, which is ringed by evergreens. More seascapes dazzle the eye en route to your last night's stay in Brookings at the 37-room Bonn Motel (541/469-2161), $52 weekdays/$56 weekends. Also, the 35-room Spindrift Motor Inn (800/292-1171), $69 weekdays/$72 weekends. Dine Fish-and-chips at the Flying Gull Restaurant & Lounge. Info: 888/628-2101, visittheoregoncoast.com/ Colorado high country Sprawling across 10,000 square miles, more than a dozen peaks in Colorado's San Juan Mountains tower above 14,000 feet. Grasp the steering wheel, because you're headed into this sky-high land on a 233-mile loop called the San Juan Skyway. Mile after mile, it soars, plunges, and twists in tight, cliff-hanging curves. Getting there Fly into Montrose, Colorado. Or look for cheaper fares into Denver, some 260 miles distant. Day one Explore sun-splashed Montrose. Nearby Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is named for the deep, narrow gorge cut by the Gunnison River. Peer into its depths on the rim's edge road. Take a riverboat tour at Curecanti National Recreation Area. At the Ute Indian Museum, intricate beadwork and other artifacts illustrate tribal history and culture. Stay Montrose at the 51-room San Juan Inn (888/681-4159), $69. Also, the 42-room Super 8 (970/249-9294), $67. Dine Feast on steak at Starvin' Arvin's. Day two The San Juans rise like an impenetrable wall as you approach Ridgway on U.S. 550 south. Head for the ski resort of Telluride via Colorado Route 62 west/145 south. Board Telluride's free gondola, which hoists you up the mountain for a glorious view. Hike to Bridal Veil Falls. From Telluride, Colorado Route 145 climbs 10,222-foot Lizard Head Pass before dropping into Dolores, where you can view ancient Pueblo culture at the Anasazi Heritage Center. At Mesa Verde National Park (east of Cortez off U.S. 160) join a tour of Cliff Palace, the largest cliff dwelling in America. Stay Mesa Verde at the 115-room Far View Lodge (800/449-2288), $102 to $134. Or stay nearby in Cortez at the 85-room Days Inn (970/565-8577), $51. Dine Far View Terrace Food Court. Day three East on U.S. 160, you can watch Durango's historic narrow-gauge train puff out of town. Trace its route north on U.S. 550 to Silverton, a former boomtown that still retains a rough frontier look. On north, zigzag up 11,008-foot Red Mountain Pass. Soak in Ouray's hot-springs pool before returning to Montrose. Stay Montrose, again (see Day One). Info: 800/265-6723, colorado.com/. Lake Superior loop Massive Lake Superior is the largest body of clean, fresh water in the world. Circle it counterclockwise on this winding, 1,400-mile loop and the water on your left seems as wide and forbidding as the ocean. Look to your right, and the thick, evergreen forests, both awesome and intimidating, march in unbroken ranks to the distant horizon. Getting there Although it's about 150 miles from the lake, fly into Minneapolis, which is served by low-costs American Trans Air, America West, AirTran, and Frontier. Day one Take I-35 north from Minneapolis to Duluth, the leading Great Lakes port. Study up on shipping lore at the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center, a free U.S. Army Corps of Engineers facility, and then trek over to the Great Lakes Aquarium & Freshwater Discovery Center. Here you'll learn that Superior is about 350 miles long, 160 miles wide, and holds three quadrillion gallons of water. Stay Duluth at the 99-room Motel 6 (218/723-1123), $45 weekdays/$53 weekends. Also, the 59-room Super 8 (218/628-2241), $82 weekdays/$91 weekends. Dine Snag a lake-view table and a roasted-chicken enchilada plate at Little Angie's Cantina & Grill. Day two In Wisconsin, edge Superior to Apostle Islands National Lakeshore--21 islands off Bayfield. Catch the ferry to Madeline Island. Move on to Michigan on U.S. 2/Michigan Route 28 and Marquette's Maritime Museum to learn about legendary shipwrecks. Stay Marquette at the 80-room Super 8 (906/228-8100), $67. Also, the 52-room Value Host Motor Inn (800/929-5996), $55. Dine Portside Inn. Day three Stop in Sault Ste. Marie to watch freighters ease through the Soo Locks. In Canada, take Ontario Highway 17 west. At Lake Superior Provincial Park, hike to Agawa Rock--an ancient Ojibwa canvas of rock paintings. Stay Wawa at the 14-room Mystic Isle Motel (800/667-5895), CAD$62/US$42. Also, the 32-room Big Bird Inn (705/856-2342), CAD$54/US$37. Dine Cedar Hof Dining Lounge. Day four On to Thunder Bay for one of the world's finest water-view drives. Stretch your legs at Aguasabon Falls, Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, and Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park. Stay Thunder Bay at the 50-room Super 8 (807/344-2612), CAD$75/US$51. Also, the 60-room Best Western Crossroads Motor Inn (807/577-4241), CAD$95/US$65. Dine Timbers Restaurant at Valhalla Inn. Day five More waterfalls and Great Lakes lore en route back to Minneapolis via Minnesota Route 61/I-35. Grand Portage National Monument recalls eighteenth-century fur-trading voyageurs. At Judge C.R. Magney State Park, a mighty waterfall disappears into the mouth of Devil's Kettle, a pot-like rock formation. At Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, climb the stairs of a restored lighthouse. Scramble on the rocks at Gooseberry Falls State Park for a final Superior view. Info: visitduluth.com/; marquettecountry.org/; wawa.cc; visitthunderbay.com/. Utah's canyon county Etched by deep, sinuous slick-rock canyons, southern Utah is as awesomely beautiful as it is geologically chaotic. For 400 miles, you'll wind past lofty cliffs, graceful arches, and soaring spires. Take a break to hike, raft, climb, bicycle, fish, and swim. Getting there Fly into , served by low-costs AirTran, America West, American Trans Air, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest, Spirit, and Sun Country. Day one First stop is Zion National Park, reached via I-15 north and Utah Route 9 east. Carved by the rippling Virgin River, Zion Canyon is a deep, narrow gorge of vividly colored sandstone walls rising 3,000 feet. A shuttle takes you into its heart, but explore on foot to see it best. Recommended the short climb to Emerald Pools. Stay/dine Springdale at the 41-room Pioneer Lodge and Restaurant (435/772-3233), $61 weekdays/$71 weekends. Prime rib is a specialty. Or stay/dine in nearby Kanab at the 89-room Parry Lodge (435/644-2601), $56, which the Hollywood crowd used when filming Westerns nearby. Day two Utah Route 9 makes a heart-stopping climb out of Zion Canyon en route, via U.S. 89 north and Utah Route 12 east, to Bryce Canyon National Park. Formed by erosion, pink-stone pillars in bizarre shapes called hoodoos soar like castle towers. Peer from the canyon rim into a red-rock fantasyland; better yet, descend into its maze of hidden passageways. Stay/dine 52-room Bryce Canyon Pines (800/892-7923), $65. Or stay nearby in Panguitch at the 55-room Best Western New Western (435/676-8876), $65. Day three Perhaps America's most scenic highway, Utah Route 12 traces the northern edge of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. Slender canyons slice an immense ocean of shiny, sun-glazed rock. Hike in aptly named Kodachrome Basin State Park; admire petrified logs at Escalante State Park; trek (six miles round trip) alongside Calf Creek for a swim beneath its splashing waterfall. At Capitol Reef National Park, Grand Wash Canyon's polished walls narrow perceptibly every step you take. Stay Torrey at the 34-room Super 8 (435/425-3688), $47 weekdays/$49 weekends. Also, the 39-room Days Inn (435/425-3111), $55 weekdays/$65 weekends. Dine Rib-eye steak at the Capitol Reef Café. Info: 800/200-1160, utah.com/. Arizona's Navajo nation The Navajo and Hopi reservations are like two different foreign countries. This 450-mile loop out of Holbrook rewards with an up-close look at the cultures and lives of these intriguing peoples, struggling to retain their historic identity in a beautiful but harsh land. Catch a ceremonial dance. Examine exquisite handmade rugs, pottery, and kachina dolls. Getting there Fly into Phoenix, which is served by American Trans Air, America West, Frontier, Southwest, and Sun Country. Holbrook is 230 miles northeast of Phoenix via the scenic route, Arizona Routes 87, 260, and 377. Day one Take U.S. 180 south from Holbrook to Petrified Forest National Park, an arid badlands scattered with fallen forests turned to colorful rock. Paved pathways lead to fascinating specimens. Exit onto I-40 east, connecting to U.S. 191 north onto the Navajo Reservation (or Navajo Nation). Look for hogans, ancient-style dwellings still used by traditionalists. Outside Ganado you'll find Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site. Opened in 1878, it is the oldest continually operated trading post on the reservation. Browse its stack of rugs, noting the variety of traditional styles. Canyon de Chelly, a maze of red-rock passageways, once was a Navajo stronghold. Peer into its depth on a rim drive. Stay Chinle at the 99-room Best Western Canyon de Chelly Inn (928/674-5874), $99. Also, the 73-room Thunderbird Lodge (928/674-5841), $101. Dine Thunderbird Cafeteria. Day two Follow U.S. 191 north/U.S. 160 west to Kayenta. Nearby Monument Valley, a landscape of massive wind-sculpted rocks, provided dramatic settings for John Ford/John Wayne Westerns. Stay/dine Tuba City at the 80-room Quality Inn (928/283-4545), $98. Or stay/dine 10 miles west in Tsegi at the 57-room Anasazi Inn (928/697-3793), $60. Day three Cross the Hopi Indian Reservation--which is surrounded by the Navajo Nation--on Arizona Route 264. Most Hopis live on or near First, Second, or Third Mesas, huge rocks shooting from the desert valley. Atop Second Mesa, the Hopi Cultural Center details tribal history. Atop First Mesa, explore the seventeenth-century adobe village of Walpi. Kachina artisans populate both. Return to Holbrook on Arizona Route 77. Stay 70-room Best Western Arizonian Inn (928/524-2611), $73. Also, the 63-room Econo Lodge (928/524-1448), $45. Dine Jerry's Restaurant. Info: 866/275-5816, arizonaguide.com/. Blue Ridge Parkway An unusual road that offers nonstop panoramas, the Blue Ridge Parkway winds for 469 miles through the mountains of Virginia and North Carolina without a stop sign or stoplight. Most of the way, you weave among the forested peaks of the Blue Ridge Mountains--some climb over 4,000 feet. They tower above quilted farmland spread out in valleys below. Getting there Fly into Washington Dulles, served by AirTran, America West, and JetBlue. Waynesboro, Virginia, gateway to the drive, is about 100 miles southwest. Day one The parkway quickly lifts you from a lowland gap in the Blue Ridge Mountains to a lofty slope. The first of countless overlooks yields a view of rumpled hills dotted with lakes and ponds. At Milepost 5, tour the Mountain Farm, an outdoor museum of historic Appalachian farm buildings. At Milepost 34, a waterfall splashes beneath the remnants of a logging railroad. Stay/dine Milepost 86 at the lakeside, 63-room Peaks of Otter Lodge (800/542-5927), $95. Or stay off the parkway in Bedford at the 75-room Days Inn (540/586-8286), $53 weekdays/$58 weekends. Day two Mosey on down the parkway. At Milepost 115, tour Virginia's Explore Park, a more comprehensive outdoor museum of early settler life. On summer Sundays catch local musicians in a bluegrass jam session at Mabry Mill, Milepost 176. Browse the shops in Blowing Rock, North Carolina, but stay 10 minutes away in Boone at the 100-room Fairfield Inn & Suites (828/268-0677), $89 weekdays/$109 weekends. In Blowing Rock, try the 24-room Blowing Rock Inn (828/295-7921), $85 weekdays/$104 weekends. Dine Knights on Main in Blowing Rock. Day three Leave the parkway briefly in Asheville to tour Biltmore Estate; Biltmore House is a 250-room castle patterned after the châteaux of France. Beyond Asheville, the parkway climbs to 6,047 feet, its highest point. At road's end in Cherokee, the Museum of the Cherokee Indian tells the tragic Trail of Tears story of 1838, when 15,000 tribal members were forced to leave their homes and march more than a thousand miles to Indian Territory (Oklahoma). At least 4,000 Cherokees died on the journey. Stay Cherokee at the 72-room Newfound Lodge (828/497-2746), $78/$88. For cheaper rates, stay 16 miles east in Maggie Valley at the 57-room Microtel Inn & Suites (828/926-8554), $60 weekdays/$75 weekends. Dine Teepee Restaurant. Info: 828/299-3507, blueridgeparkway.org/ Plantations of the South Fresh, southern-fried catfish and hush puppies are menu staples on this 250-mile drive up the Mississippi River from Louisiana's Cajun-spiced capital of Baton Rouge, to the old river ports of Natchez and Vicksburg, Mississippi. Along the way, you will visit many of the South's finest pre-Civil War plantation homes and their beautiful formal gardens. Getting there Fly into New Orleans, served by AirTran, America West, Frontier, JetBlue, and Southwest. Day one Plunge into Plantation Country at Houmas House, just north of the airport via I-10 and Louisiana Route 44. An elegant 1840 Greek Revival mansion, it overlooks the Mississippi. (Though the building is under renovation until November, it is still open to the public for touring.) See a different aspect of plantation life at Baton Rouge's LSU Rural Life Museum. Neck irons, shackles, and branding irons recall the slave trade. Stay Baton Rouge at the 110-room Corporate Inn (225/925-2451), $45. Also, the 79-room Fairfield Inn Baton Rouge South (225/766-9493), $74 weekdays/$64 weekends. Dine any of six Piccadilly Cafeterias in the area. Day two From Baton Rouge, U.S. 61 climbs from lowland bayous through a lush countryside of mixed fields and forests. Stroll nineteenth-century Royal Street in St. Francisville, a river port, and then visit two important plantations and gardens nearby. Oakley is Caribbean in style, more suitable for the local heat and humidity. Furnishings are lavish, yet the story is grim. Fever and dysentery struck frequently. More upbeat, Rosedown delights with its grand avenue of oaks and formal gardens. Stay Natchez at the 160-room Ramada Inn Hilltop (601/446-6311), $86. Also, the 121-room Days Inn (601/445-8291), $54. Dine the grilled catfish plate at Biscuits & Blues. Day three Begin the day exploring Natchez's public homes. Melrose, the most intriguing, stands at the end of a long, oak-lined drive. From Natchez, follow the Natchez Trace Parkway, a historic route. At Milepost 10, climb Emerald Mound, a Native American ceremonial platform dating from a.d. 1250. At Milepost 66, take Mississippi Route 27 into Vicksburg, where more mansions await. Vicksburg National Military Park commemorates a major Union victory. Stay Vicksburg at the 63-room Best Western (601/636-5800), $75. Also, the 49-room Econo Lodge (601/634-8766), $49. Dine Rowdy's Family Restaurant. Info: 800/527-6843, visitbatonrouge.com/; 800/647-672natchez.ms.us/; 800/221-vicksburgcvb.org. Civil War trails Washington, D.C., and Richmond are separated by a scant 100 miles. Their proximity as enemy capitals turned the landscape blood red in a series of horrendous battles marked by courageous charges and catastrophic blunders. This 350-mile itinerary provides an intimate glimpse of the four-year conflict. Getting there Fly into one of three area airports: Baltimore, served by America West, AirTran, Frontier, and Southwest; Reagan National (Washington), served by America West, American Trans Air, and Frontier; or Washington Dulles, served by AirTran, America West, and JetBlue. Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, the start of the drive, is less than two hours away from each. Day one The Battle of Gettysburg, July 1-3, 1863, marked the Civil War's turning point. The Union victory put the South on the defensive until the fighting's end two years later. Relive the battle on the 18-mile auto tour at Gettysburg National Military Park. To see it as the soldiers did, walk at least partway. Stay Gettysburg at the 30-room Three Crowns Motor Lodge (800/729-6564), $62. Also, the 25-room Perfect Rest Motel (800/336-1345), $59 weekdays/$69 to $89 weekends. Dine Gingerbread Man, a Victorian-style charmer. Day two Antietam National Battlefield in Sharpsburg, Maryland, was the scene of the war's bloodiest day. To reach Antietam, take U.S. 15 south to Frederick, U.S. 40 north to Maryland Route 34 south. Study the battle on the nine-mile drive, and then follow signs to nearby Harpers Ferry National Historical Park in West Virginia. The mountain village was the target of abolitionist John Brown's raid. Stop and sip along the way to wine country and Fredericksburg, Virginia (U.S. 340/U.S. 17 south), site of four battles--described at Fredericksburg & Spotsylvania National Military Park. Stay Fredericksburg at the 59-room Travelodge (800/578-7878), $54 weekdays/$64 weekends. Also, the 119-room Motel 6 (540/371-5443), $46 weekdays/$54 weekends. Dine Ponderosa Steakhouse. Day three In June 1864, Union forces trapped Confederates in Petersburg, Virginia (I-95 south). At Petersburg National Battlefield, walk the earthworks built during the long siege. Then trace Confederate flight to Appomattox Court House National Historical Park (U.S. 460), where Lee surrendered to Grant on Apr. 9, 1865. The hilltop village looks much as it did that day. Stay Appomattox at the 45-room Super 8 (434/352-2339), $62, or in nearby Lynchburg at the 59-room Super 8 (434/846-1668), $65. Dine Granny Bee's. Info: 717/334-6274, gettysburgcvb.org/; fredricksburgvirginia.net; 434/352-8987, nps.gov/apco.

For a year and a half in the early 1960s, Bob Guynup, of Atlanta, served in the U.S. Navy at a small communications base in the Philippines. Whenever his supervisors allotted him some free time, he and his mates would head 30 miles south to Subic Bay, where the U.S. maintained a huge naval base. "I really loved those liberty days," he says. "Our bus would take us into Subic Navy Yard, and from there we'd walk into town to find a place to drink San Miguel beer." Other times, Guynup and his buddies hired a driver to lead them on various adventures. "One night we wound up in an illegal casino. You had to rap on the door like a speakeasy from the 1930s. It was exciting and high-class, with a good band and wonderful meals." Like many veterans, Guynup has grown curious about what's become of his old stomping grounds. "We've been looking at a trip to the Far East for a few years now but haven't been able to go until this fall," says Susan Franklin, his wife. "My husband wants to return to Subic Bay, and we'd also like to see Bangkok, Hong Kong, and Cambodia over the course of two weeks or so. We know many people who are knowledgeable about Europe, but we haven't been able to find anyone reliable to advise us about Asia." At your service! First on the agenda: transportation. Bob and Susan were perfect candidates for a special offer from Cathay Pacific called the All Asia Pass. For $1,199, it includes a flight from the U.S. to Hong Kong, Cathay's hub, and allows connections to 18 Asian cities over 21 days. If they signed up for the airline's free CyberTraveler program online, they'd get a discount of $200 per person. So each pass ended up costing $999 plus taxes (about $50 to leave the United States, and between $10 and $50 for every departure abroad). As for putting together an actual itinerary with the pass, Cathay Pacific is of little help. The airline doesn't even sell the pass directly. Instead, it insists that clients book all their connections through a travel agent. Being flexible with dates and reserving well in advance are essential. Cathay's American gateways are Los Angeles, San Francisco, and New York. We told Bob and Susan to start their pass with a nonstop flight from L.A. to Hong Kong (some of the other connections involve long layovers). AirTran Airways had flights to L.A. for roughly $200 round trip. Unfortunately, the Cathay pass doesn't cover travel to Cambodia. Bangkok Airways had the best deal on round-trip airfare from Bangkok to Siem Reap, near the amazing temple ruins of Angkor Wat: around $250 each. "Back in the '60s, a good hotel in the Philippines was about $5 per night," says Bob. That's pretty cheap, but they're doing even better on this trip. The couple has saved up 225,000 American Express Membership Rewards points, which they're trading in for rooms at chains such as Hilton and Holiday Inn in Bangkok, Hong Kong, and the Philippines. They had enough points for free nights everywhere except in Cambodia, so we suggested the Angkoriana Hotel. The Angkoriana is decorated in the ancient Khmer style but features modern amenities and a location right in Siem Reap, just a five-minute drive to Angkor Wat. Doubles start at $65, or a package with airport transfers, breakfast, dinner, and a driver/guide to the temples is available for $59 per person. (We recommended the full package for one night and a room without meals or tours for two more.) Susan asked us about renting a car -- we said not to. Hong Kong and Bangkok are thoroughly modern, and public transportation is cheap, efficient, and fairly easy to figure out. Dealing with chaotic traffic, aggressive drivers, and road signs that aren't always in Roman letters, on the other hand, can be a nightmare. In Cambodia and the Philippines, where the infrastructure isn't always up to snuff, we told them to hire a car and driver for excursions (just like old times). One of those trips has to be to Subic Bay. Bob and Susan chose to stay at the Holiday Inn at Clark Field, on a private parkland estate with 7,000 trees and a 27-hole golf course. Subic Bay is a two-hour ride away, and hiring a car and driver for the day costs about $70. Bob probably won't recognize Subic Bay. The military compound was handed from the U.S. to the Philippine government in 1992. What was the base is now called Subic Bay Freeport, a commercial area filled with businesses and shops that employ approximately 45,000 people. There's a golf course, a yacht club, bowling alleys, discos, and a performing arts center, and it's all surrounded by virgin forest with easy walking trails. Things in Subic Bay are scheduled to change even more in the near future -- plans are under way to convert it into a commercial port that will bring in big cruise ships. We told Bob to contact Winstar Taxi Services for a custom tour of his old haunts in the area -- and to drink a couple of cold San Miguels for us! Asia Lodging Angkoriana Hotel No. 297 Phum Boeng Daun Pa Khum Slakram, Siem Reap-Angkor, Cambodia, 011-855/63-760-274, angkorianahotel.com, doubles from $65 Holiday Inn at Clark Field Mimosa Dr., Mimosa Leisure Estate, Pampanga, Clark Field 2009, Philippines, 011-63/2-845-1888, holiday-inn.com, doubles from $60 Bangkok Airways 011-66/2265-5555, bangkokair.com Cathay Pacific 800/233-2742, cathay-usa.com AirTran Airways 800/247-8726, airtran.com Winstar Taxi Services 011-63/47-252-7409, tours $5.50 per hour Subic Bay Freeport Luzon, Philippines, 011-63/47-252-7262, sbma.com

Cruising for free is easier than you might think--just ask Carol Schaer of Gaithersburg, Maryland. After Schaer talked with her travel agent about her traveling preferences, she reserved a block of cabins on a Norwegian Cruise Line voyage and sent flyers with her group's information to family and friends. The goal was to entice enough friends and family to earn free passage under NCL's group policy. The result? Not only did Schaer earn a free cruise but her husband did too, when 18 other people joined their group. Some groups start as a single booking, like the cruise John Mansy, of Cruise Directors, Inc., planned for an engaged couple. The bride chatted about her upcoming honeymoon cruise to friends and neighbors, and within weeks, 34 other people signed on to set sail, including her sister, the neighbors, and the best man. Result: The newlyweds cruised for free. Several years ago I worked on the inside (or "shoreside," as our shipboard compatriots referred to us) for a major cruise line. My job was to keep travel agencies up to date on our ships and policies. It was then that I learned about this nifty little way to earn a free cruise. All you need is a few friends or family willing to travel together on the same sailing, and an excuse to do it--be it for a family reunion, birthday, graduation celebration, club outing, or just for fun. Sometimes a group starts as just two couples and before they know it, they've invited enough people to eliminate their own bill. Defining a cruise group--the magic of numbers Most of the major lines, including Princess, Carnival, Holland America, Celebrity, Norwegian, Royal Caribbean, and Disney, generally define a "cruise group" as 16 people occupying eight cabins (third and fourth passengers in a cabin don't count toward the total). The sixteenth person, or the person who organizes the bookings (in "cruise-speak," the group leader or tour conductor), earns the free fare--although port charges, taxes, and airfare must be paid. With some companies, off-peak sailings or large groups earn free fare for every tenth or twelveth person. Agencies specializing in groups can help you find those sailings and negotiate the best possible deal. If you and your group want to sail during peak sailing seasons, you'll need to book your trip one year in advance. However, cruise lines need little notice (one to two months prior to embarkation) for off-season sailings. Cruise lines are best able to accommodate groups in fall, when they are most flexible (and have the most cabins to fill). Perks galore for group travelers Not only are cruise-group rates sometimes lower (on certain lines, substantially lower) than individual rates, but often, the free cruise fare can be applied to the group leader or can be divided evenly among the group, saving everyone money. Additionally, many of the major lines frequently offer amenities available only to group cruisers. Examples include cabin upgrades, complimentary wine and chocolates in each stateroom, a cocktail party, or a reduction in the number of cabins required to earn the free cruise fare. The quantity and type of amenities vary by cruise line and how full the sailing is. Other advantages of a group cruise over a regular land-based vacation include: The freedom to choose the cabin class (inside, outside, balcony) you can afford. Indulging in hassle-free family meals (minus the dishwashing duty that comes with a house rental), avoiding waits for the big table at a restaurant, and eliminating those squabbles over the check. Participating in group activities (or going off by yourself). Enjoying the camaraderie and sense of security of traveling with loved ones. Taking advantage of childrens' programs (many ships have them), which enable adults to have a worry-free evening together. Potential pitfalls Because full payments are usually required 60 days before departure (90 days around holiday periods), group cruising is not always for spur-of-the-moment travelers. Plus, to secure the best price and best-located cabin, space must be reserved even further in advance. If the group falls below the required number of cabins, what happens next depends on your agent's negotiating power and the cruise line's policies. Many cruise agencies (see below) will try to book an unrelated individual on the same sailing to keep a group's number up; in other cases, a cruise line may cut back on part or all of the amenities package. Also, cruise lines have become more focused on customer satisfaction in recent years, and where they once refused to allow name substitions (Uncle Jack takes Uncle Larry's place), they now charge an average of $35 for reservation name changes. Finding that expert agent While Carnival Cruise Lines will accept group bookings directly (888/CARNIVAL, or to speak directly with the group bookings department call 800/327-5782), it's best to work with an agent who specializes in cruise groups. Many agencies prebuy discounted cabins and have increased negotiating power for amenities. Agencies that have specialized group departments and a national clientele include: The Cruise Authority (which also focuses on large theme cruises, 800/326-4971, the-cruise-authority.com),out of Georgia; Anchors Away Cruise Center (888/516-6306, mustcruise.com) based in California; Cruise Value Center, 800/231-7447, mycruisevalue.com);Kelly Cruises (800/837-7447, kellycruises.com) in Illinois; Cruises Only (a division of mega-agency Boston-based NGL, 800/278-4737, cruisesonly.com); and Cruise Web (800/377-9383, cruiseweb.com), and the expertly run Galaxsea Cruises (800/662-5450, galaxseacruises.com). So, as the cruise ads say, get out there. Set sail with friends...and don't worry, there are plenty of hiding spots on those megaships if you need some time alone.

Most people travel to St. John to bask in the luxury of five-star resorts, dine in expensive restaurants and get tanked at shiny bars with ocean views. But to those searching for a more authentic experience, the swankiest of the three US Virgin Islands also reveals an exciting glimpse of Caribbean life -- one that sparkles with West Indian flavors and rhythms, and comes at a much cooler price. Consider breakfast. Instead of wasting $12 or more on an omelet with home fries at a predictable tourist eatery, St. John's local Caribbeans prefer to start the day with Johnny Cakes. A savory deep-fried flour pouch stuffed with any combination of eggs, cheese or ham, this palm-sized specialty sells for $1-$2 at the local take-out kiosks. These tiny stands also serve delicious lunches. Comfees in downtown Cruz Bay, up the hill from First Bank, prepares some of the best pates on the island: elliptical rolls of dough filled with ground beef, chicken, salt-fish or conch, a soft Caribbean shell-fish. At just $2-$4 each, pates -- similar to Jamaican patties -- make a cheap lunch that works well as a beach-side picnic (Tel: 714-5262) . Arthur Hercules sells plenty of meals from his kiosk called Hercules located strategically across from the Lumberyard Mall in Cruz Bay, St. John's biggest town. (Tel: 776-6352). The tourists are mad about the patés," he says from behind his white wood counter, squeezing raw dough in his hand. "Locals go for the salt-fish and Johnny Cakes." A welcoming St. Kitts native who worked at a luxury resort here for twenty years before starting his own business, Hercules also recommends bull foot soup -- made with cows feet and vegetables -- for breakfast. Salt fish is ubiquitous on the local menus, and Sosa's Restaurant on Cruz Bay Road cooks it just right, in a piquant tomato sauce for $12. Like most of its entrees, the shredded, chewy fish comes with salad, rice and beans, and sweet fried plantains, providing more than enough to feed a hungry surfer. Sosa's livens up at night and on weekends you'll hear salsa and merengue hits blaring from a juke box, as a young Dominican clientele chats over icy beers (Tel: 693-8881). Just a few steps away, Sogo's Restaurant specializing in West Indian cuisine serves a reasonable curry goat stew with vegetables, plantains and rice for $10 (Tel: 779-4404). To get away from Cruz Bay, check out the much smaller town of Coral Bay on the other side of the island, where many locals live. Vitran buses leave every two hours from the ferry dock in Cruz Bay and the 45 minute trip costs $1. Although the commercial area of Coral Bay consists of little more than a recently paved road and a handful of businesses, a casual restaurant on the main drag called Sticky Fingers serves excellent barbecue. Popular with a diverse neighborhood crowd who sit in the gravel front-yard under a baby blue and yellow awning,the eatery serves up barbecue chicken, pork ribs or beef brisket with a scrumptious home-made sauce and two sides for $12.95 or less. (Tel: 715-1110) Like the nightlife? But the insiders' scene is not all about food. Although the quiet existence led by most locals leaves a nightlife with little to brag about, a couple of clubs cater to the needs of the young and sleepless. On Cruz Bay's King Street on Wednesdays and Fridays, Fred's jumps to the beat of live soca music and reggae long into the night, its concrete dance floor and low corrugated roof barely containing the young crowd. The frenetic rhythm of the calypso-like soca can be intimidating at first, but your thighs will thank you for the workout. (Tel: 776-6363). If it's cheap liquor you are after, look no further than Cap's Place, a seedy sprawling roadside bar across from the post office on North Shore Road. (Tel: 693-8609). Always busy on weekends, Cap's sells rum drinks for $2, and keeps three television shows running for good measure. A dimly lit pool table and loud salsa music complete the picture, but it's worth stopping in just for the experience. If you're serious about your music, however, trek out to Coral Bay where Sputnik attracts some decent bands. In the eighties and nineties, Sputnik was a key destination for reggae aficionados from around the Caribbean; today it's not quite as high-profile but it serves a dedicated group of St. John music fans. Bands usually play Friday and Saturday nights, but call ahead to confirm. (Tel: 776-6644) An affordable bed When you're done partying, eating and drinking at a discount, get ready for some painful news at bedtime. On an island where visitors think nothing of spending $400 on a double room, cheap hotels can be difficult to find. The Inn at Tamarind Court on Centerline Road is one of the cheapest hotels around, with six economy rooms with shared bathrooms that go for $75 from December 1 through May 31. Book several weeks in advance and steer clear of the windowless rooms (Tel: 776-6378.) But the best way to get affordable accommodations on the island is to opt for the less traditional choices. Maho Bay Campgrounds offers a host of tented bungalows, private canvas-sided "villas", if you will, built on wooden platforms and shaded by lush greenery that are quite comfortable, and go for about $110 per night in high season (the price drops to $75/night from May 1 through Dec. 23). Go to maho.org for full information. If you really want to keep down the cost, check out the Cinnamon Bay campgrounds off Route 20 where you can pitch your own tent for $27 or share a cottage with up to four friends for $110-$140. (Tel: 776-6330.) The cottages are spartan and the communal bathrooms primitive, but you'll be just yards away from one of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean.