True Stories

Aksum was the capital of ancient Ethiopia when the country was a major world power, ranked with Rome, Persia, and China as one of the greatest kingdoms in the world. Sadly for the tourist, however, while the area's history stretches back as far as 3000 B.C., most of its antiquities remain belowground, unexcavated and unknown. What Aksum lacks in blockbusters it makes up in historical relevance, from pre-Christian ruins to towering stones from around A.D. 300-500. The peak of Aksum's power lasted from 1000 B.C. until nearly the 8th century A.D., and at one point its borders stretched up to Egypt and across the Red Sea into Arabia. The city's main attraction is Obelisk Field, a collection of more than 120 obelisks erected in the middle of town by Ethiopia's earliest kings, King Lalibela's predecessors. From the center of the field, the tallest standing stone rises more than 75 feet, like a spear set among swords. I explored the site in about an hour, and it was worth getting up close to the central pillar to make out the detailed carvings of a door and nine floors of windows. Earlier that day, I rented bicycles for myself and a young student who asked to be my guide. At the tourist office downtown, $6 bought me a ticket granting access to all of the city's ancient sites, and we pedaled out of town. A dusty road led to a ruin the locals call the Queen of Sheba Palace, a maze of rock walls and granite steps that some say dates back to the pre-Christian era. Ten minutes of hiking and we reached a life-size relief of a lioness. Carved into a granite boulder in the middle of nowhere, it could hold its own in the British Museum. We walked among the boulders that stud the hills to a long stretch of granite with a deep excavated trench, the physical shadow of an obelisk. We were standing in the quarry from which kings carved their monuments, looking at the rock from which Ethiopian history was first cut. That night, at the restaurant in the government-run Yeha Hotel, I choose a table overlooking Obelisk Field (011-251/34-775-2377, $38; it's easier to book through the Ghion Hotel in Addis Ababa, 011-251/11-551-3222, ghionhotel.com.et). The restaurant is busy, but the terrace is empty, perhaps because the air has a slight desert chill. From a hill across the valley, marked only by three house lights, come the sounds of drums and laughter. The food is hot, the beer is cold, and the obelisks are fading into the dusk. I feel like I'm dining alone with ancient African history.

It's a given that most airlines don't serve meals, and airport to-go options are pathetic, so your best bet is to pack your own eats. But if you're bringing a sandwich on board (the best option because it doesn't need a container or utensils), you have to build it to last. After all, you probably won't be eating the darn thing for at least three hours. Here, Sisha Ortuzar, executive chef of sandwich chain 'Wichcraft chain, offers tips on how to create a sandwich that'll still be appetizing once you're in the air. Bread For moist fillings--tuna salad, tomato--go for crusty breads, like ciabattas or baguettes. They'll soak up the flavors without getting soggy. Use sliced bread only if you're making a super simple sandwich, such as ham and cheese. Mustard Condiments should be on the opposite sides of a sandwich; you don't want the flavors to get homogenized. To add richness, try a dash of olive oil or vinaigrette instead of mayo. Mustard travels well too--it packs a lot of flavor, and it doesn't spoil. Cheese Don't be worried about letting cheese stay unrefrigerated for a few hours--most varieties are best at room temperature. Hard, aged cheeses are better than soft ones, which can melt or disintegrate. A slice of cheese also acts as an insulator between layers (to help control a tomato's moisture, for example). Meat Most meats can't be trusted after more than an hour out of the fridge. Choose well-cured ones, such as prosciutto, serrano ham, and salami. Bacon, which is naturally preserved by its salt content, is another good option. Cook it slowly and thoroughly, to the point where most of the fat is rendered, so it stays crispy. Fennel The minute lettuce touches something oily, like mayonnaise, it wilts. Fresh, thinly sliced fennel makes for a terrific alternative--its crunch doesn't sag with time. Cucumbers work well too, but they can be watery, so make sure your bread is crusty. Paper Wrap the sandwich in light, thin paper--the kind used in delis--and slice it in half. Then wrap it in wax or butcher paper, which will keep moisture inside. The outer layer can be used as a makeshift plate.

Our anonymous confessor has been in airline public relations, marketing, and customer relations for a decade now. Complaints Executives are concerned about the company's image, and the most effective complaints go right to the top with threats of talking to the media or the Department of Transportation. These complaints are handed off to someone like me, whose job is to make you feel better--in the form of free tickets, if you're lucky. Refunds and changes I'll never get those travelers who buy nonrefundable tickets and then give the airline a hard time because they can't have a refund. If you must change plans, you can request that a reservation agent waive a fee, but it's unlikely you'll get anywhere. Agents try as hard as an NFL defense to hold the line. We will, perhaps, waive change fees if there was a death in the family, you're horribly sick or under military orders, or you encountered a flash flood or some other disaster on the way to the airport. But don't be surprised when we ask you to prove your situation. Lost luggage Airlines anticipate that about 1 percent of checked bags will be mishandled, damaged, or lost, and they even budget accordingly. The maximum that domestic airlines have to pay for damaged or delayed bags is $3,000 per passenger, as per the Department of Transportation. But airlines hardly ever pay anywhere near that amount because they don't reimburse for cash, cameras, video equipment, computers, jewelry, antiques, or other expensive stuff. Delays and cancellations If flights are delayed or canceled, airlines usually promise to reimburse passengers only for immediate needs (such as meals, ground transportation, and lodging). Airlines will never pay claims for losses that are due to missed meetings or lost wages. If you make a big stink, however, we may provide tickets or discounts on future flights, as a gesture of goodwill. Sale fares We limit the number of sale seats on each flight, so only a few people get the cheapest fares. We may offer lots of sale fares on less popular "dog flights" (usually on Tuesdays and Wednesdays) but few or no discounted seats on Fridays and Sundays. There's no law stipulating that a certain percentage of seats be discounted when an airline announces a sale. In 1993, the DOT slapped Continental's wrist and stated that a combination of flights with sale-fare seats ranging from 0 to 7 percent of capacity wasn't reasonable. Our lawyers say we're safe if we discount 10 percent of capacity during a sale. Can an airline get away with 7.5 percent? Probably. Of course, there's the "float the boat" effect, in which a well-publicized sale brings in customers who wind up buying tickets at much higher prices. Another executive recently boasted to me that he offered a rock-bottom sale for a limited time--and nearly two thirds of the tickets were sold at higher fares. Where the deals are Consumers marvel at the ease and convenience of booking through an online travel site like Expedia or Orbitz, but airlines have to pay those sites as much as $10 per flight for the booking. It's no wonder that the lowest fares are usually found on the airline's own website.

Since 9/11, the Transportation Security Administration has collected tons of items at security checkpoints; in 2006 alone, screeners took in more than 13 million items. What happens to all that stuff? The TSA turns it over to state surplus property agencies, which tend to sell it online or at retail stores. (Sometimes the contraband is sold in bulk.) The agencies say they'll reunite you with your prized pocketknife, if they can locate it. But they would much prefer that travelers figure out the rules and abide by them. "Our goal is for passengers not to bring this stuff on anymore, so we won't have to deal with it," says Steve Ekin, Georgia's surplus property division director. Here's where to look, and what you might find. Alabama Airports: 14 in Florida and Alabama, including Miami, Orlando, Huntsville, and Birmingham Where to buy: eBay (seller ID: alstatesurplus) Typical deal: Golf driver $100 Craziest items? "There are always lots of plastic fake swords that people buy at Walt Disney World, so there are probably lots of mad kids." Info: adeca.state.al.us/surplus%20property Georgia Airports: Atlanta, Savannah/Hilton Head Where to buy: Stores in Tucker (Atlanta Surplus Center, 770/414-6468); Swainsboro (Swains­boro Surplus Center, 478/289-2623); and Americus (Americus Surplus Center, 229/931-2407) Typical deal: Hammers $3, cordless drills $10 Craziest items? "We get flatware and kitchen knives stolen from restaurants, and we've received a bowling pin, a chain saw, and a few circular saws." Info: surplusproperty.doas.georgia.gov Illinois Airports: Chicago O'Hare, Chicago Midway, and occasionally four more in Illinois and Michigan Where to buy: Auctions held at ibid.illinois.gov Typical deal: 25 pounds of Swiss Army knives for $250 Craziest items? "On occasion, we'll see big bowie knives and ninja swords. And nunchucks--a lot of those come through." Kentucky Airports: Eight in various states, including Orlando and Miami (Alabama shares the loot), and Louisville Where to buy: eBay (seller ID: kysurplus) Typical deal: 50 Swiss Army knives for $250 Craziest items? "We've collected about 500 mini Louisville Slugger bats bought at the Louisville Slugger Museum." Info: finance.ky.gov/internal/surplus Oregon Airports: Portland and Eugene Where to buy: eBay (seller ID: oregontrail2000) Typical deal: 10 Leatherman multitools for $75 Craziest items? "Golf clubs and machetes." Info: oregonsurplus.com Pennsylvania Airports: 13 from various states, including New York JFK, Newark, Philadelphia, and Cleveland Where to buy: eBay (seller ID: pastatesurplus) Typical deal: Deer-hunting kit (gut-slitting knife, multitool, pocket­knife, large safety pins, rope, flashlight) for $50 Craziest items? "We've received hundreds of pairs of fuzzy handcuffs and other S&M paraphernalia--I wanted to create funny Valentine's Day kits, but folks here thought taxpayers wouldn't like it." Info: dgs.state.pa.us/surp_prop Texas Airports: Seven across the state, including Dallas/Fort Worth and Austin Where to buy: Austin Storefront in Austin, 512/463-1990 Typical deal: Scissors and corkscrews 25¢, knives 50¢, multitools $2.50 Craziest items? "Brass knuckles, crutches, and piñata sticks. And we once got a cane with a knife inside it." Info: tfc.state.tx.us/communities/supportserv/prog/statesurplus Washington State Airports: Seattle-Tacoma, Spokane, and Tri-Cities Where to buy: Auburn Retail Store in Auburn, 253/333-4912 Typical deal: Corkscrews for 25¢ Craziest items? "Lots of ulus--round Eskimo chopping blades. Also, a Sit'n Putt. It's a short-handled putter designed to be used while you're on the potty." Info: ga.wa.gov/surplus