Trip Coach: July 8, 2008

July 8, 2008
tc_070808_kzimmerman
Karla Zimmerman, the main author of "Lonely Planet Chicago (2008)," answered your questions on Chicago.

Karla Zimmerman: Hi, Karla Zimmerman here, ready to chat with you about Chicago. Let's get started, shall we?

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Mission Viejo, Calif.: We are going to be in Chicago in August with 2 teenage girls. Do you have a top 5 list of "must-see's"? We have done the Sears Tower before.

Karla Zimmerman: OK, must-see No. 1: Millennium Park. You gotta' walk through and see The Bean sculpture and human-gargoyle-style Crown Fountain. The park also hosts concerts, yoga and dance classes—all for free. See the website for schedules and a do-it-yourself mp3 audio tour. No. 2: Art Institute, vast and magnificent. It's free on Thursday and Friday eves. No. 3: the lakefront. Stroll along it, or better yet, bike it with a rental from Bike Chicago's Navy Pier or Millennium Park outlets. No. 4: Chicago architecture, best appreciated via a tour with the Chicago Architecture Foundation. The 90-minute river cruise and the Historic Skyscraper walking tour are both winners. No. 5: Shopping. Check out the Magnificent Mile stores or trendy boutiques in Wicker Park (about a 10-minute El ride from downtown).

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Griswold, Conn.: My former college roommate and I are planning a reunion and girlfriend's weekend in late September. Since we will only be there a couple of days, what are the must-see, must-do attractions, spa experiences, dining options, shopping etc.? We want to have time to catch up and relax, but also experience the Windy City. Thanks for your suggestions!

Karla Zimmerman: See my answer to Mission Viejo's question, above, for Top 5 attractions. For spas, there's the Aveda Institute a bit north of downtown. For all-out pampering, there's the Four Seasons Spa, where caviar-and-pearl facials await. For dining, Wicker Park and Lakeview are two neighborhoods holding rich veins of restaurants. The Chicago Reader and Time Out Chicago both list restaurant reviews by neighborhood on their websites, so check there for further ideas.

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Bellaire, Mich.: What are 3-5 good places to eat in the Lakeview area of Chicago? I will be there in September.

Karla Zimmerman: I like Mia Francesca, a popular Italian restaurant. Lines are usually out the door, but move fast. PS Bangkok dishes up tasty Thai chow. Orange wins raves for brunch. The Chicago Reader and Time Out Chicago have more listings.

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Oregon, Wisc.: I travel to Chicago every 6 weeks to take my 95-year-old, wheelchair-bound "Aunt" out of her nursing home. We've gone to "Wicked," the Brookfield Zoo, the chocolate fest at the conservatory, the races at Arlington Park, the botanic gardens, shopping on Michigan Ave, a lake-front cruise, the Scarecrow Festival, and several other summer-time outdoor events. I'm starting to run out of ideas for daytime adventures. Can you help?

Karla Zimmerman: I'm impressed! You've already been very creative. You could try a baseball game. Both Wrigley Field and US Cellular Field offer special wheelchair seating. If your aunt likes art, you could try the Art Institute which is wheelchair accessible throughout.

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San Antonio, Tex.: Hi! I'm a mom taking her 13-year-old daughter to acrobatic gymnastics National Championship in Des Moines at the end of the month. As a treat, I'm taking her and her 10-year-old sister to Chicago from July 30 to August 2. Where should we stay? We want to go to Hancock Tower on Wednesday night to see sunset and fireworks and "Wicked" on Thursday. Not really into American Girl Dolls. Would love to see appropriate art museum for budding 10-year-old artist. Would love to see cool stuff for 13-year-old...how things work...tours of big company manufacturing or TV show production. Thanks!

Karla Zimmerman: Take the budding artist to the Art Institute. Its Kraft Education Center provides activity books and programs to help kids of all ages interact with the collection. Check the museum's website under the "Families" heading for more info. As for where to stay: the Embassy Suites Downtown is popular with families.

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Atlanta, Ga.: Once a HotTix Booth existed across from the Marshall Field's store on State Street in the Loop (yes, I am dating myself!). Since HotTix is no longer there (and Macy's has replaced Field's), what is the best way to get a couple of same-day, half-priced tickets to the great shows on Randolph Street's theatre district?

Karla Zimmerman: Hot Tix is still around, my friend. You can buy same-day, half-price tickets online, or at outlets at 72 E. Randolph Street and 163 E. Pearson Street. Note they're closed on Mondays.

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Aiken, S.C.: Where in Chicago does one go for the best Greek food?

Karla Zimmerman: Chicago's Greektown lies along Halsted Street, just west of the Loop. You'll have lots of restaurants to choose from. I recommend Artopolis Bakery & Cafe.

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Toronto, Ontario: Can you suggest a couple of hotels at each price point that's close to a subway station? I'm a female who's looking to get away solo to Chicago for a few days and would like to stay at a decent place that's not far from a station. Thanks!

Karla Zimmerman: The boutique Hotel Allegro is right by the Randolph El stop downtown. The City Suites Hotel is a stone's throw from the Belmont El stop in Lakeview. The Wicker Park Inn B&B is really sweet, located in the unique Wicker Park neighborhood, though it's about 5 blocks or so from the Damen El stop.

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St. Petersburg, Fla.: We have never been to a baseball game at Wrigley Field. How can we get tickets? We hear it's always sold out. Also, we'd like to stay at a B&B for a 3-night stay in the ballpark area. We're coming from St. Pete, Fla., in Aug. 2008. Thank you. —Frank

Karla Zimmerman: Getting Cubs tickets this year sucks, since the team is actually worthy. You can keep checking online, preferably in the morning, when newly released tickets sometimes appear. Or you can show up at Wrigley's box office when it opens (8am weekdays, 9am weekends) to see it any seats have become available. About two hours before game time, a few standing room tickets are released at the box office. Otherwise, you'll have to spend big bucks on a brokerage site like StubHub, or dealing with scalpers who sell tickets all around the park. If nothing else, peek in the "knothole"—a garage-door-sized opening on Sheffield Avenue that'll give you a glimpse inside Wrigley for free.

As for nearby places to stay, I don't know of any B&Bs, but the Majestic Hotel and Best Western Hawthorne Terrace are nearby.

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Detroit, Mich.: My girlfriend and I are planning a trip to the Windy City on October 10-12, 2008. We want to stay relatively close to the main attractions but don't want to spend a lot of money—what neighborhoods/areas should we be looking in for hotels?

Karla Zimmerman: The Loop and Near North—where most major attractions are located—can be affordable if you use a bidding service like Hotwire or Priceline. I have friends who've landed killer rooms for $80 when they usually cost $200-330. Otherwise, neighborhoods to the north such as Lincoln Park and Lakeview are typically cheaper, as is Wicker Park to the west (yet all are easily connected to downtown by train).

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Laguna Beach, Calif.: Four family members are planning to visit Chicago at the end of Sept. 2008. We would like to stay 2 nights near some of the favorite sights. Where would you suggest staying, and what sights are not to be missed?

Thank you,
Daryle

Karla Zimmerman: Hi, Daryle. See my answer to Mission Viejo, above, for top sights. You'll want to stay in the Loop or Near North to be near the action. Where to stay depends on your budget. I like the Hotel Allegro and Hotel Burnham, though they ain't cheap. For that, try a bidding service (see my answer to Detroit, above).

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Washington, D.C.: My girlfriend and I will be flying in to Milwaukee and taking the train down to Chicago for a few days. Can you suggest an affordable hotel that is near the train station (i.e. does not require driving)? Thanks!

Karla Zimmerman: You'll be chugging into Union Station, just west of the Loop. The W Chicago City Center is probably the closest hotel. But anything in the Loop or Near North will be easily accessible via short cab ride (around $8 or so).

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Bloomington, Ind.: I am planning a surprise (60th) birthday trip to Chicago over Labor Day weekend for my husband. The surprise will be that our 2 daughters, their husbands, and 2 kids (1 boy 20 months, one girl 9 )will be joining us. We have a cool apartment on the lake all reserved. My question is where to have a birthday dinner—someplace nice but not completely outrageously expensive that would be OK for kids. If not beastly hot, we like outdoor seating. Love Lincoln Park, but not wedded to it for this. We are fairly familiar with Chicago. Thanks!

Karla Zimmerman: Hmm, I'm kind of stumped on this one. Maybe the Plaza at Park Grill for outdoor seating right in Millennium Park? Or Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba in Lincoln Park? You can always check the Chicago Reader and Time Out Chicago for more ideas and reviews.

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Karla Zimmerman: Thanks, everybody. I hope you all have a sweet time in Chicago. It's one of the best cities on the planet (IMHO).

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New York City, My Cut

About the Photographer Ian Gittler is an author, photographer, and designer living in New York City. He is currently working on two new long-form books, one about youth culture and another comprised of detailed still lifes of vintage motors. You can catch him online at iangittler.com. _______________________ Photo Captions 1 New York City, home of the 24-hour everything. A wave of alarm swept through Greenwich Village recently when workers dismantled the Waverly Restaurant's legendary neon sign. But about a week later, the sign, missing T intact, was back in place. Many New Yorkers are thankful for the few neighborhood landmarks that resist change. Photo 2 In New York, there's constant street-level proximity to people from all walks of life—a mix of ages, races, cultures, and social strata. The social strata part can be tough. Some people are living large around here, and when a glimpse into that alternate universe catches you off guard, it can leave you with a kind of "what am I doing wrong?" feeling. Photo 3 In the moment, I admit I was tickled by the visual of Asian teens poring over travel books in Chinatown. The picture turned out to be about more: the contrast between the "Walk" and "Don't Walk" signs, the symmetry of opposite reds and blues, and a quiet reminder not to lose our sense of curiosity about the city. Photo 4 Doing the SoHo march. The couple that shops together stays together. Photo 5 One more guy with style taking in the city. Personal cool is so ubiquitous around here it practically disappears. Photo 6 Is it graffiti, or is it art? And does it matter? This wall on West 22nd Street stands opposite a row of galleries that firmly believe it does matter and whose business it is to make sure we can tell the difference. Photo 7 Have you heard the one about the three Hasidic Jews standing under the Manhattan Bridge laughing at a picture on an iPhone? The first one says to the second.... Photo 8 The relic of the 1870s Tobacco Warehouse beneath the Brooklyn Bridge captures the appeal of Dumbo to the wave of artists who homesteaded the area in the 1990s. They inadvertently promoted the neighborhood's potential for full-on gentrification, which at this point is nearly complete. Photo 9 There's been a major lag—compared to the rest of the country and the world—in New York City's architectural innovation and evolution. But corner by corner, that's beginning to change. This glass structure on Houston Street is home to an Adidas store, and I was struck by how it reflects those water towers, details from another era. Photo 10 Yeah, yeah, yeah: long waits, crowds, summer underground temperatures in the 120s, and those incomprehensible public-address speakers.... It's all true, and I say stop your bellyaching. New York's subway system is a feat of vision and human labor, by and for the people who ride it every day. Tip: If you happen to make eye contact with a stranger, may I suggest a smile? Photo 11 What can I say? Gray's Papaya is an institution. I haven't given in to one of its hot dogs in years, but I won't deny it: I experience a serious twinge of temptation every time I pass those "Recession Special" signs and catch a waft of the grill—and that's daily. Photo 12 Madison Avenue. Generations of kids hanging on to their moms' hands have learned about the finer things in life simply by strolling (or being dragged) along the mile between 60th and 80th streets. And generations of moms have had to say no to skimpy $300 bikinis like these. Photo 13 One of New York's classic urban mysteries: Why and how do shoes like these get up there? And who lost them? You'd better double knot your Puma Clydes. Photo 14 An artist photographs an artist looking at art that questions the meaning of art by artists being photographed by artists...or something like that. At this particular Chelsea opening, people were as pleased about a tin basin filled with ice-cold bottles of Budweiser as they were about anything having to do with high culture. Photo 15 There are all kinds of laws prohibiting this kind of thing, but if you can hold a tune, New Yorkers will get behind you in a heartbeat. These guys received applause on an F train, which is pretty darn improbable. Photo 16 I happened upon a late-night emergency crew welding near 12th Avenue as the Empire State Building hovered a universe away. I was struck by the contrast between the glittery surface of New York and the gritty—but in its own way also romantic—reality of its everyday business. Photo 17 I never find the punch lines that readers submit to the New Yorker's weekly cartoon caption contest funny, but when I stumbled across the tail end of this scene, I was convinced there's a joke buried here. Might it have something to do with the letters not being big enough? Photo 18 You'll hear a lot about the city's hustle and bustle, but not so much about the peace and tranquility. It's here, if you're willing to find it or, maybe more important, if you're willing to let it in. Photo 19 There's something timeless about the scene around the sailboat pond in Central Park (in the 70s, closer to the Fifth Avenue side). Maybe it's all the classic old-timers, like this guy. People just don't dress like this anymore, and that's too bad. Photo 20 The Alice In Wonderland statue in Central Park is major. Major. If you're a New York kid, you know. If you're raising kids here, you know. Visiting this busy-as-ever spot always brings it all back like nothing else. Childhood. Makes ya chuckle. Photo

Trip Coach: July 1, 2008

Jeff Dickey: Hello, I'm Jeff Dickey, author of The Rough Guide to Seattle, here to suggest ideas for things to do, see, and experience in the Emerald City, great for its natural beauty, seafood, coffee, architecture, outdoor activities and plenty more. Let's begin the chat. _______________________ Guelph, ON: I am taking a ferry from Victoria, BC to Seattle. What should one day in Seattle consist off? Regards, Natasha Jeff Dickey: Lots of questions have come in about activities in Seattle if you only have a day or two to experience the city. Of course, much depends on your interests. The venerable Pike Place Market is the usual place to stop first for most out-of-towners, its multilevel produce and seafood vendors, restaurants, bars and clubs making it deservedly the city's most popular attraction. From there, down the market's "Hillclimb" stairway, is the Seattle waterfront, which offers a decent aquarium, seafood restaurants (including the old favorite Ivar's), ferry dock, and, further north, Olympic Sculpture Park. Indeed, if art and architecture appeal, the park is a must for anyone with a yen for modern sculpture and environmentally sensitive design. Accordingly, you shouldn't miss a trip to the recently renovated and reimagined Seattle Art Museum, which has not only expanded its collections on view, but added a quirky "Art Ladder" for a new take on art. Also a necessity for aesthetes is Rem Koolhaas's breathtaking and somewhat bizarre Seattle Central Library, which resembles a giant modernist greenhouse for books and people. Finally, don't forget good old Seattle Center north of downtown, to which the famed Monorail leads. Both are a product of the 1962 World's Fair and manage to retain significant tourist interest. The Center offers science and children's museums, carnival rides, the musical institution of the Experience Music Project (and attached sci-fi museum), and of course, the city symbol, the Space Needle. There's much more to experience and enjoy in the city if you have more time here, so hold on for more suggestions. _______________________ Capistrano Beach, Calif.: Are there any reasonably priced places to stay across Elliot Bay at Alki Beach? I like the small "beach like" atmosphere. Jeff Dickey: Alki Beach is one of Seattle's more enticing spots, off the beaten tourist trail to some degree (depending on the tourist), but fascinating for its sandy bayside shore, miniature Statue of Liberty, and various historical markers that recall Alki's place as Seattle's original townsite... until the early pioneers packed up and relocated to what's now Pioneer Square. Accommodation, beyond the usual chain motels here and there, is scarce, but there are a few distinctive places, though not directly on the shoreline itself. Closer to the center of the West Seattle peninsula, the Villa Heidelberg is a pleasant B&B with nice amenities, as is the Wildwood B&B, somewhat further south near the Fauntleroy ferry terminal. _______________________ Whaton, Ill.: Trip: 9/23-9/30, 2 adults (53,57) leaving from Chicago. Where is the best 1 day biking tour for moderately active adults around Seattle? In Seattle? The San Juan Islands (which one?), the coastal mountain area? Jeff Dickey: The San Juan Islands are one of the country's most beloved natural jewels, but unfortunately don't factor into a one-day biking tour around Seattle. Rather, they require a separate, multi-day trip to get there by ferry (or seaplane, if you have the money). Likewise, the coastal mountains of Olympic National Park are beautiful, but not part of a Seattle day trip—too much effort required to get there and get oriented. Instead, you have two great choices around the city: the first, the Burke-Gilman Trail, leads from the northern Seattle neighborhoods of Ballard and Fremont along the Lake Washington Ship Canal and eventually over to the suburbs of the eastside with the Sammamish River Trail, 27 miles altogether. A shorter route can be found along Lake Washington Boulevard, which takes you from the Washington Park Arboretum down through a series of well-heeled neighborhoods like Madison Park and Madrona before concluding in Seward Park. Even better, on select summer weekend days, the boulevard is closed to automotive traffic. _______________________ Harrisburg, Pa.: I will be attending a conference in Seattle the last week of October. Where can I find great bakery items in the downtown area? What two restaurants do you recommend? Jeff Dickey: Both of my choices are a few blocks north of downtown in the Belltown neighborhood. Macrina has great breakfasts, pastries, cinnamon rolls, tarts, and various other tasty treats, while Dahlia Bakery, about seven blocks away, has all of the above, plus scrumptious sandwiches and the virtue of being near one of Seattle best restaurants, Dahlia Lounge. _______________________ San Rafael, Calif.: Weather, weather, weather! What specific places in and around Seattle (50 miles) are more or less rain-swept and what months are the rainiest? Thanks. Jeff Dickey: From mid-June through September, you're on safe, and dry, ground if you're looking to visit the city without being caught in a downpour. Indeed, summer months are some of the favorite times for visiting Seattle, but keep in mind that prices for lodging and other costs rise accordingly. January and February end up being quite wet, even snowy at times, but if you're sticking to an indoor itinerary and focusing on saving money, you'll be satisfied despite the gloom. That said, if you'd like to venture into a truly rainy climate (though a bit further than 50 miles away), try the Hoh, Queets and Quinault rainforests of Olympic National Park, among the rainiest—and most beautiful—places in the country, where all that moisture contributes to some truly stunning scenery and record-sized giant trees. _______________________ Cedar Rapids, Iowa: What's going on in Seattle the weekend of August 16-17? Rooms are hard to find. Jeff Dickey: Although it's tempting to look for culprits in the form of major events (that weekend it's BrasilFest at Seattle Center), most of Seattle's huge shindigs are in the weeks before and after mid-August. So the reason for the lack of vacancy is likely that it's the height of the summer season, when the city is temperate and lovely, and everyone's who's heard good things about Seattle wants to go there. If you're calling around and having no luck finding accommodation, try the concierge service at the Washington State Convention and Trade Center, located downtown at Seventh Ave at Pike (206/461-5840, visitseattle.org), one of whose aims is provide assistance to visitors to the city, especially for hotel reservations and the like. Alternatively, you can try A Pacific Reservation Service (206/439-7677 or 1-800/684-2932, seattlebedandbreakfast.com) or Seattle Bed and Breakfast Association (206/547-1020 or 1-800/348-5630, lodginginseattle.com), if you're interested in staying in one of the city's handsome B&Bs. Although it's going beyond the scope of the question a bit, I should add that the Emerald City has a bevy of good places to stay, provided you aren't thwarted like the Iowa visitor above at the height of summer. Some recommendations would have to include the funky boutique atmosphere of the Ace Hotel in Belltown; downtown's ultra-plush and chic Alexis, Andra, Monaco, W and Vintage Park hotels; the arty Hotel Max, also downtown; B&Bs like Pensione Nichols near Pike Place Market, or the majestic Shafer-Baillie Mansion on Capitol Hill; and cheaper getaways like the University Inn near the U District, Bacon Mansion on Capitol Hill, and, cheapest of all, downtown's Green Tortoise hostel, hardly the most private spot in the world, but one of the most relaxed and convivial. _______________________ Auburn Hills, Mich.: Hi, My husband and I would like to take a train from Detroit to Seattle but we do not know where to begin. We definitely are looking for the scenic route. We would also like to avoid a car rental in Seattle, Is that possible? We plan to travel the last two weeks in August. Any suggestions? Jeff Dickey: To go by train, you basically have one choice: Amtrak's Empire Builder line, which runs once daily from Chicago to Seattle (with another line going to Portland, Ore.), traveling through the Dakotas, Montana's stunning Glacier National Park, Spokane, and the Washington Cascade Mountains along the way. It's a good trip, but on such a lengthy route, it may be worth the extra money to upgrade to a sleeper cabin so you can get some rest along the way. Once you arrive in Seattle, you can easily avoid renting a car if you don't mind getting around by bus. The Metro system is safe and extensive, and there's a Downtown Ride Free Area which allows for free transit rides between 6am and 7pm. Other transit options are light rail (generally in the suburbs), monorail (from Downtown to Seattle Center), and waterfront streetcar (now undergoing refurbishment). If all else fails, you can walk. Seattle is quite pedestrian-friendly in places, though it has its traffic congestion in spots, and areas from Pioneer Square to downtown to Belltown, Seattle Center, and Capitol Hill can easily be explored by hearty walkers who don't mind a few hills—the views from which, toward Elliott Bay, are generally outstanding, especially in the upper Queen Anne district north of Seattle Center. _______________________ Milwaukee, Wis.: We'll be in Seattle at the end of this month with two kids, 2 and 4 years old. We're in town about 24 hours. What's the best Seattle experience for all of us? Thank you! Jeff Dickey: Along with the fun experiences already mentioned (Pike Place Market, Olympic Sculpture Park, Seattle Aquarium, etc.), you should seek out the Children's Museum at Seattle Center, which has all kinds of kid-friendly, bright, colorful and kinetic doodads to play with and learn from, and the Seattle Children's Theatre, which has productions for a variety of ages. Those readers who have more time in Seattle to spend with the kids should try the productions of the Northwest Puppet Theater, the various animals of the verdant Woodland Park Zoo, or the big planes of the Museum of Flight, south of town. Across Lake Washington in Bellevue, the Museum of Doll Art is one of the less familiar, but still fascinating, sights for anyone with an interested in miniature human toys—some 3000 in all. And if you come back in May, there's also the Seattle International Children's Festival at Seattle Center, with lots of engaging music, dance and theater performances. _______________________ North Falmouth, Mass.: We will be in Seattle for only a day and a half, August 30-31. What should we try to do in such a brief time? Also, after a long flight from the East Coast, we'll probably be looking forward to a casual place to have supper. Thanks for any suggestions. Jeff Dickey: Dining in Seattle has only gotten better in the last decade or so, and significant attention is now given to the region's foodways and many fine restaurants for a variety of budgets and tastes. The signature Northwest Cuisine that many of the mid-to-upper-end restaurants serve is something of a variation on California Cuisine—including fresh, local ingredients (which in the Northwest can be anything from the apples of central Washington to the seafood of the Pacific coast) and inventive combinations of flavors, spices and ingredients, combined with a presentation style loosely modeled on French nouvelle cuisine. Good dining choices for this kind of food, or anything else, tend to be quite numerous and beyond the scope of a chat to encompass (consult your favorite guidebook, ahem, for details). Some of the better eateries in the central area are Anthony's Pier 66, which has fine, expensive seafood on the waterfront; Campagne, tops for French dining near Pike Place Market, with a cheaper attached café; Monsoon, consistently good pan-Asian food in the Capitol Hill neighborhood; Wild Ginger, delicious southeast Asian cuisine downtown; Dahlia Lounge, the Northwest Cuisine restaurant mentioned earlier, as well as Lampreia for the same cuisine, also in Belltown; Piecora's, for its pizza in Capitol Hill; and for lunch only, the redoubtable Salumi in Pioneer Square, which has stupendous sausages and sandwiches that make people line up outside during weekdays. Few dining spots in the Northwest are excessively fancy (with the exception of places like Lampreia), and what might suffice as casual wear on the East Coast will be more than adequate in the Northwest. But if you really want cheap eats, the famed Dick's Drive-In has diners for cheap and hearty burgers and fries all over town. _______________________ Puerto Rico: I travel regulary, on business, to Seattle. Because it's work related I don't have much leisure time. What would be the must see, visit, shop and eat at places in Seattle if you had only 1-2 days to spare? Jeff Dickey: Sightseeing and dining matters are addressed above, but for shopping, downtown has numerous shopping malls with the usual chain stores, with Westlake Center being the most conspicuous—it also hosts one terminus of the monorail. Seattle's biggest names in brand shopping downtown are Nordstrom and REI, but for something unique to the area, venture a short distance south to Pioneer Square, which not only boasts the top-notch Elliott Bay Book Company, but is also rich with art galleries (the Gallery Walk on the first Thursday of the month is a key event) and stores selling arty knickknacks, as well as some good coffeehouses and bars. There are also myriad galleries in the up-and-coming SoDo part of Seattle further south, into the now-gentrifying industrial district. For alternative boutiques, where you can pick up oddball vintage wear or stylishly upscale adornments, try Capitol Hill east of downtown, where such merchants can be found on and around Broadway; there's also a smattering of good record stores. (The Pike and Pine corridor also has a decent array of similar shops.) The University District, to the north beyond the Ship Canal, also sells books, records, and clothing, with an understandable tilt to the student market. Further west, Fremont is known for its warren of stalls at the Fremont Sunday Market, hosting vendors of secondhand jewelry, clothing, furniture, trinkets and the like, while Greenwood, further north, is still known for its antique sellers, though not as many as a decade or so ago. Closer to downtown, Belltown's Second Avenue has just a few lingering galleries and alternative shops (and hardly any record stores), as most of the shopping has turned toward the upper-end boutique variety, ever since the old grunge scene of the 1980s and early 1990s was turned out to make way for high-end condos. Finally, if you're really pressed for time, good old Pike Place Market has dozens of vendors of fruits and vegetable, coffee and other staples (including the original location of Starbucks), book- and record stores, and newsstands selling a variety of periodicals. _______________________ Pa.: Are there any excursion trips to any of the Boeing factories in the area? Jeff Dickey: Gray Line of Seattle is the main operator for all manner of tours in the city and the region beyond. Some of its offerings include double-decked bus tours of the central city, culinary and dining journeys that take in restaurants, excursions to Mount Rainier, whale watching, and cruises along the city's locks. Gray Line also has trips down to the Museum of Flight in Tukwila or up to the Boeing factory in Everett. Prices can vary widely. The Boeing tour itself is four hours long, for around $50. However, if you have transportation of your own, you can also see the huge facility by yourself—it's 98 acres and the biggest building in the world by volume. Inside you can watch planes from 747s to 777s being built, as well as new craft that haven't hit the skies yet, such as the 787 Dreamliner. Touring the factory is a major and involved affair, not for casual visitors in town for a day or two, but essential for anyone interested in aerospace and/or heavy industrial machinery. For more info, check out boeing.com/companyoffices/aboutus/tours. _______________________ Columbia, Md.: Hoping you could help me. What's the one of a kind food experience I should be sure to have in Seattle? Also, any great brewpubs? Thank you! Jeff Dickey: See my earlier answer for some of the top restaurants, but as for brewpubs, Hale's Ales in Ballard and Elysian Brewing near Capitol Hill are some of my favorites. Also don't forget about Big Time Brewing in the U District or the staples of the McMenamins chain like Dad Watson's or the Six Arms. The most popular brewpubs, though, tend to be in the touristy areas, like the Pike Pub & Brewery near Pike Place Market, or Pyramid Brewing near the stadiums. Regardless of location, any of these places should satisfy your palate to a nice degree—though, this being Seattle, there's nothing wrong with popping open a macrobrew at a good old fashioned dive bar like the Comet Tavern or Central Saloon. _______________________ Charlotte, N.C.: Where is the best/most unique place to get a cup of coffee in Seattle? Jeff Dickey: Drinking coffee is one of the abiding joys of a trip to Seattle, and there are countless java joints at which to get your fix. For many caffeine fans, the several locations of Vivace Espresso are at the top of the list, since they're well known for their espresso-roasting dexterity. On the other side of Capitol Hill, Bauhaus Books and Coffee is a classically compelling, and cramped, environment that's alive with neighborhood dwellers and a few scenesters looking to pose. Other reliable choices are Victrola Coffee in Capitol Hill and Caffe Vita, with a handful of branches around town. Other names, like Zeitgeist, Top Pot, Caffe Umbria, Caffe Ladro, All City, and Stumptown (a Portland interloper!) all have their passionate adherents, and there are many others that have their appeal—often as simple as a cart on a sidewalk. The city has not only led the way in appreciating the many kinds and styles of java, but been instrumental in drawing Northwesterners, and ultimately Americans, away from their old percolator habits. Ironically, of course, Seattle is also the home of a certain company that's led the way in global homogenization of the coffee experience...can't seem to remember the name... _______________________ Boston, Mass.: I'm planning a trip to Seattle July 16 and spending about 4 days in Seattle and making some day trips and then taking the ferry to San Juan Island and spending about 3 nights in Friday Harbor. Do you have any suggestions of special things I should see that might not be highlighted in the general guide books, and what day trips should I take from Friday Harbor? Jeff Dickey: The San Juan Islands make for a great trip from Seattle, and Washington State Ferries runs numerous routes to four of the islands—Lopez, Orcas, San Juan and the little-visited Shaw—from a base in Anacortes, north of Seattle. The typical guidebook recommendations for the main island, San Juan, revolve around the American and English camps of San Juan Island NHP, the Whale Museum, and various whale-watching cruises. If you're interested in outdoor activities, though, you really can't go wrong with the possibilities for hiking, cycling or sea kayaking. Companies like San Juan Safaris and San Juan Transit can provide information on all of the above (along with whale watching) and you can rent a bike from outfitters like Island Bicycles. If your journeying takes you beyond San Juan, Orcas Island is a good choice for its range of striking scenery and Mount Constitution (crowned by a medieval-looking tower), while Lopez Island mainly appeals for its miles of country lanes for cycling, compelling sea kayaking, and Shark Reef Park for nature watching. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Hello, Jeff. My boyfriend and I are foodies on a budget. Any recommendations for our trip to Seattle? Jeff Dickey: Several questions ago, I mentioned a handful of restaurants that were good for food lovers without regard to price. For budget restaurants specifically, the 5 Spot in Queen Anne is one of my favorites for its modern take on classic diner fare. In Pike Place Market, El Puerco Lloron has cheap and tasty eats from south of the border; Phnom Penh Noodle House, in the Intl. District, and Noodle Ranch, in Belltown, come to mind when thinking about cheap and savory noodle dishes; the local chain I Love Sushi, despite the goofy name, has solid and inexpensive raw fish and rolls; Café Flora in Madison Park offers reliable vegan and vegetarian fare; Ivar's Acres of Clams is the major seafood haunt on the waterfront, with an attached raw bar; Saigon Deli in the Intl. District has authentic Vietnamese cooking worth seeking out; and Madame K's in Ballard is a good, rib-sticking pizza joint. Also in Ballard, Hattie's Hat is one of the longstanding diner/dive bars that has affordable well drinks, cheap beer, and good and greasy breakfasts (perhaps with a chaser) to eat and drink the pain away. _______________________ Jeff Dickey: That's about it for this hour's chat. Thanks to everyone for sending in such good questions. If you'll be in town at the end of July, check out Seattle's Seafair celebration, which has airplanes and hydroplanes on view, plus milk-carton boat races and other quirky events. And if you're around over Labor Day weekend, Bumbershoot is one of the country's premier cultural events, loaded with hundreds of musical acts of all styles, performers, theater events, food vendors, and other artists, artisans, and events all over the city. With the weather cooperating, it's just about the best time to see the Emerald City glitter. Whenever you visit, good luck on your journeys.

You, Unplugged

Not even if you beg for it The "Isolation Vacation" package at the casual Arawak Beach Inn resort on the Caribbean island of Anguilla in the British West Indies is all about going cold turkey from technology. Starting at $999, double occupancy, you receive a seven-night stay in an oceanfront room with no phone or TV. The boob tube is removed before you check-in; if you bring a laptop or a PDA, someone on staff will snatch it away for safekeeping. While other guests can pay for Wi-Fi or high-speed Ethernet/USB connections, you won't be able to purchase either. You'll also be banned from the office computer, with no recourse. How to compensate for the loss? Rooms have views of the Island Harbour Bay below, and two private, white-sand beaches are a few minutes' stroll away. The vacation package also includes a deep-sea fishing trip and a boat ride to a small, uninhabited island, where you'll savor a free lunch on a beach. (Even more: The deal covers breakfast daily, four dinners at the café, and a three-day car rental.) As for cell phones, while some American phones (typically higher-end, quad-band models) get reception in Anguilla, the roaming charges tend to be painfully high. 877/427-2925, arawakbeach.com. Stow your portable electronic devices, and saddle up In south-central Texas, the Running-R Guest Ranch is hemmed by wide-open skies, oaks, and grassland disappearing into the distance. But there's little in the way of cell phone reception at this remote dude ranch, and the Internet is off-limits to guests. Navigate your newfound freedom on horseback, or borrow a mountain bike from the ranch and take to a nature trail. Other popular activities include hiking the adjacent 5,400-acre state park or visiting the Alamo in San Antonio, about an hour's drive southeast. If it sounds like roughing it, it's not exactly: There's a swimming pool to cool off after a long day out, and the ranch's wood-planked cabins provide air-conditioning so you can catch some shut-eye. Low-season daily rates start at $115 per person based on double occupancy and include an air-conditioned cabin, two meals per day, and a couple hours of riding per day (typically on a quarter horse). 830/796-3984, rrranch.com. Put your CrackBerry under lockdown In mid-2006, Sheraton Chicago Hotel & Towers cooked up a way to persuade its guests to unplug: It began offering to lock up BlackBerries and other PDAs in the manager's safe. This past February and early March, the hotel even ran a BlackBerry Detox Challenge, awarding a three-night return stay and a Shula's Steakhouse dinner to the first person who handed over his or her gizmo, BlackBerry or otherwise, for 48 hours. The next 25 customers who went PDA-less were immediately upgraded to fancy rooms. Under its current offer, the hotel gives you a walking map of Chicago's tourist highlights in exchange for your PDA or smartphone. The hotel is a short walk from the Magnificent Mile shopping corridor and Chicago's Art Institute. Rooms start at $149 a night. 877/242-2558, sheratonchicago.com. Make it a no-fi weekend The Canadian resort Spa Eastman, a little over an hour by car from Montreal, remains as down-to-earth now as when it first opened in the 1970s. "Unplugging is part of its philosophy," says Melisse Gelula, editor of SpaFinder Lifestyle, an online magazine that will launch later this year on SpaFinder.com. "You're meant to attend fitness classes, walk in the surrounding woods, drink herbal tea, and linger in the spa." If all that unplugging doesn't come naturally to you, the spa is there to nudge you along in the right direction: There are no TVs or phones in the guest rooms, and the resort's brochure politely requests that you leave your cell phones at home. If you bring your phone, you can't talk on it outside of designated areas. Can't kick the habit completely? You can use the resort's Wi-Fi in the common room, but unless you get creative, that's the only place to get back on the grid. When you're not at the spa, get in touch with the surrounding natural beauty, which includes a cedar forest and views of Mount Orford. Rates start at about $128 USD ($130 CAN) per night, which includes meals, fitness activities, workshops, and guided walks. Spa packages that include accommodation start at about $235 per night. 800/665-5272, spa-eastman.com. Yes you koan Run by the San Francisco Zen Center, the Tassajara Zen Mountain Center in Carmel Valley, Calif., lies roughly two hours inland from Monterey at the end of a steep, 14-mile dirt road. Admitting guests from early May through early September, the Center has only one public phone, no cell phone reception, and no Internet connection. In fact, don't plan on bringing any gadgets that require charging: Only a few of the cabins have the electricity you'll need to stay in touch. Even more discouraging for tech addicts, the center charges $10 an hour to recharge devices. So how will you fill up all the time you'll be saving by not answering emails? Take a relaxing soak in the bathhouse with water from a local hot spring, or sign up for a retreat covering such subjects as yoga, gardening, and cooking. Failing that, you can just hang out and do nothing: The Tassajara Zen Mountain Center is a functioning monastery for serious students of Buddhism, with free meditation instruction at 4 P.M. daily, but you're free to do as you please. Lodging-only options include plain dormitories for $90 to $110 per person and traditional Japanese tatami-mat cabins for $123 to $145 per person, based on double occupancy. There are some additional charges for workshops. Call the center for details. 415/865-1899, sfzc.org/tassajara. Note: You might not be able to unplug just yet; recent wildfires have caused the Tassajara Zen Mountain Center to close down temporarily. Check out their website for updates. The path to enlightenment (has no cell phone reception) Up in the mountains above Helena, Mont., Feathered Pipe Ranch beckons yoga enthusiasts who want a little Out West beauty to go with their meditation. But don't plan on instantly sending friends a photo of any of your poses—or anything else, for that matter. Cell phone reception is nonexistent, and the Wi-Fi reception here is poor, making Internet connections painfully slow. Staff members at this tranquil lakeside retreat feel that a guest's non-yoga time is better spent offline: watching the deer graze or the clouds roll by, for example, or going for a swim or a nature hike. A few caveats: Retreats run one week at a minimum, with rates ranging from $1,300 to $1,900 per person, which includes room and board and yoga instruction. Guests have to be part of a "retreat," which means choosing a week-long specialized yoga program, such as "Yoga, Meditation & Pranayama" ($1,595). A variety of yoga philosophies are represented; check the website for more details. The season at Feathered Pipe runs from May to mid-September, but some classes fill up as much as a year in advance. 406/442-8196, featheredpipe.com.

Trip Coach: June 24, 2008

Rick Garman: Hello, everyone! My name is Rick Garman, travel author and general Sin City know-it-all. I hope I'll be able to answer your questions about the city and give you some helpful advice about planning the best trip to Las Vegas. Let's get started! _______________________ Camden, Maine: What activities do you recommend for a family trip with children (ages 12 and 15) on a budget? We have no interest in casinos, but the boys love sports, adventure, amusement parks, and anything where they can be active. Any shows they might like—I was thinking maybe Cirque du Soleil? Rick Garman: Back in the early '90s, Las Vegas experimented with the idea of turning it into a family-friendly destination with lots of theme parks, attractions, and entertainment that were designed to lure parents with their kids. It didn't work very well and now the primary tourist areas are very adult-focused. As a result, there are fewer things for families to do. On The Strip, the best family attractions are the Mirage Dolphin Habitat and the Secret Garden of Siegfried and Roy (a small zoo-like facility); the Shark Reef—a large aquarium at Mandalay Bay; and the indoor theme-park at Circus Circus called Adventuredome, which has a roller coaster, log flume, and more. Get off The Strip and you have more opportunities such as the games and rides at the Las Vegas Mini Gran Prix; recreation opportunities at Lake Mead and Lake Las Vegas; and things like movies, bowling, and ice skating you can find at many of the "local" casinos such as Red Rock Resort, Sunset Station, and Fiesta Rancho. As far as shows, I highly recommend the magic and illusions of both Mac King at Harrah's and Lance Burton at Monte Carlo; the Blue Man Group at Venetian; and Stomp Out Loud at Planet Hollywood, all of which are appropriate for families. The Cirque shows contain some imagery that may be objectionable to some parents, but Mystere at Treasure Island is fine for teenagers. _______________________ Raleigh, N.C.: Rick, I am planning to visit the Grand Canyon with my friends in August. I am thinking of flying to Las Vegas and then taking a trip from there to the Grand Canyon. What is the best option that you would suggest that is cheap and worthwhile? Thanks, Joe Rick Garman: Hi, Joe. To be really honest, I've never considered the Grand Canyon as being a very good side trip from Las Vegas although I know a lot of people do it. It's about 300 miles from the city to the South Rim and a lot of it is on smaller highways that can be very congested with traffic so a trip there can take upwards of 6 hours. That means you'll spend a big chunk of your time just getting there, whether you're driving or taking a charter. Having said that, if you're determined to do it, I recommend Gray Line Tours—they offer a variety of coach and air tours at competitive prices and have been doing it for a long time so they are dependable. _______________________ Lexington, N.C.: I haven't been to Vegas in 3 years. What's new that won't break my pocketbook in Vegas? Can you mention your favorite buffet? (I always do the Rio or Paris.) Thanks! Rick Garman: Most of the new stuff in Las Vegas is very expensive, but the new hotels that have opened in the last few years are Wynn Las Vegas, Planet Hollywood, and Palazzo, all of which are worth a walk through and have many restaurants and shows to go along with them. The next wave of new hotel openings will start later this year with Encore (a sister hotel to the Wynn), CityCenter, the massive project under construction between Bellagio and Monte Carlo and Fontainebleau near The Sahara, both of which will open in 2009, and Echelon, the big new hotel and casino that replaces The Stardust, due in 2010. My favorite buffet... Rio and Paris have very good buffets but The Buffet at Wynn Las Vegas is amazing. It's expensive, although not much more than Rio or Paris. If you want something cheaper but still terrific, get off The Strip to Santa Fe Station's Feast Buffet or Red Rock Resort's Feast Buffet. _______________________ Swansboro, N.C.: I'm traveling to Las Vegas for the first time from Sept. 27 to Oct. 4, 2008, with my 73-year-old mother (who has visited there already). What are the absolutely MUST-SEE attractions/unusual hotels in and near Las Vegas? Rick Garman: The Strip is where you'll want to spend the bulk of your time, of course. For a trip of that duration, I usually recommend focusing each day on a specific area and really exploring. So your first day could be spent around the South Strip where you can see hotels like New York-New York, Luxor, and MGM Grand. The second day could be on the Center Strip for hotels like Bellagio, Caesars, and Mirage. The third day could be the North Strip for Wynn Las Vegas, the Fashion Show Mall, and Stratosphere, among others. Another day for Downtown and another to get away from The Strip to the locals areas or the recreation centers of Lake Las Vegas, Red Rock Canyon, or Lake Mead. By devoting extra time to each area you can really explore and find the things that will appeal to you in terms of attractions, restaurants, shops, and stores. _______________________ Las Vegas, Nev.: Where is the best place to find discounted rates for shows on the strip? How about for locals? —Erika Rick Garman: Hi, Erika. There are several same-day, half-price ticket outlets in town including Tix4Tonight and Tickets2Nite (there are several locations on and near The Strip and Downtown). You won't get the A-List shows like Cirque or Bette Midler there but you can often find good deals on the smaller shows. Also be sure to check the Las Vegas Review Journal's Neon section where you'll often find discount coupons for some of the smaller shows or the local free magazines like LVM and What's On. _______________________ Miami, Fla.: I'm planning to go to Vegas 9/14-18. What are chances air rates will fall following the summer and with the economy being what it is? Rick Garman: Unlike many other destinations, summer is the relatively slow time for Vegas and prices on everything start to pick up in September, so while there's no way I can predict what will happen with air rates, my guess is that you won't be seeing a great deal of variation for travel during that time period. But again, that's just a guess. _______________________ San Francisco, Calif.: Hi! I just received an offer from the Imperial Palace and wonder if the deal is as good as it sounds. By staying with them for a minimum of 2 nights, I will receive a citywide food credit and upon check-out, a credit voucher for air fare towards my next trip to Vegas, provided I stay at one of the Harrah's resorts. The amount of the two credits varies with the length of stay. In your opinion, is this a good deal? Rick Garman: That does sound like a good deal although I'm not sure what a "citywide food credit" means. I mean, you're not going to get comps at McDonald's so I'd explore that a little further. Also, it's worth noting that Imperial Palace, while a fine, clean, and comfortable hotel, is not the nicest on The Strip—rooms are small, often dark, and fairly utilitarian. As long as you're not walking in expecting Bellagio quality you'll be fine. _______________________ Toronto, Canada: We—meaning my wife and 19-year-old daughter—would like to do Las Vegas for 4-5 days at Christmas 2008. Do you have any suggestions regarding hotel packages, what to do, where to go, etc.? Thanks in advance. —Everett Rick Garman: Hi, Everett. The 2 weeks leading up to Christmas are usually the slowest period in Las Vegas all year long so you can usually get very good deals without having to look very far. If it were me, I'd wait until the fall and then check prices at a variety of hotels often to look for the best deals. However, be aware that the days right after Christmas leading up to New Year's Eve are among the busiest all year long, so expect high room rates if this is when you are planning on going. There is very little way around it unfortunately. One trick I recommend to everyone when booking rooms is to find a hotel and a price that suits you and make the reservations, provided they have a no-penalty cancellation policy (most Las Vegas hotels don't). Then, every other week or so, check around on prices including at the hotel you've already booked. If you find something better you can always cancel your existing reservation and rebook at the new place and all it'll cost you is a little bit of time. If rates go up, then you'll already have your existing reservation in place without having to worry about it. Just don't tell the hotels that I said that. _______________________ Northville, Mich.: I will be spending the week of 9-6-08 in Vegas with my daughter (age 25) and want to pack in as much as possible. Neither of us have been there before so it's all new. Where should we start, besides the obvious? We also want to do a day trip by helicopter to the Canyon—any recommendations? Help me make the trip a total blast for the both of us. Rick Garman: Besides the obvious of The Strip, which is where you'll want to spend the bulk of your time, I highly recommend renting a car so you can get away from the heavily tourist areas and explore the city. You can go Downtown to the classic Glitter Gulch area of Fremont Street; visit some of the city's best attractions like The Springs Preserve, the Atomic Testing Museum, or the Liberace Museum; check out the less expensive restaurants and gambling options at the "local" casinos like Boulder Station, Green Valley Ranch, and more; do some serious shopping at places like the Las Vegas Premium Outlets; or go exploring the recreation opportunities at Red Rock Canyon, Lake Las Vegas, or Lake Mead. As far as helicopter to the Grand Canyon, check out Gray Line Tours or Papillon tours, the latter of which has some options that you can't find anywhere else. _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: Its on my Dad's "bucket list" to go to Vegas and my mom won't fly so I (his single daughter) am bringing him. He has seizures sometimes so I would prefer to share hotel space with him, but not a room (he snores like he's in a contest)! Any suggestions on good suites or condo's WITH WALLS AND DOORS that don't cost 700 bucks a night? Also, the best one day trip to the Grand Canyon would be great to know. Thanks, Jennifer Rick Garman: Hello, Jennifer! If you want to stay on The Strip there are really only a couple of options that won't cost you a fortune. THEhotel at Mandalay Bay has one bedroom suites (with walls and doors) so your dad could stay in the bedroom and you could be on the couch. Also the new Trump International has very nice one bedroom suites with kitchens. Both are expensive—figure at least $300 per night and sometimes higher depending on when you are traveling but they usually don't get up to $700 a night unless something really big is happening in town. But really your better option is to get off The Strip. Within a mile or so of The Strip in just about any direction are a host of moderately priced chain hotels that offer suite accommodations. Amerisuites, Candlewood, and Embassy Suites are just a few of the recognizeable names. For the Grand Canyon, check with Gray Line Tours—they're probably the best and most realiable. _______________________ Danbury, Conn.: Which hotels have the best pools? Rick Garman: It really depends on what you want out of a pool. If you're looking for lots of places to lounge and relax, big pools to swim in, and hopefully a little shade if it gets too hot then the lush pool decks at The Mirage and Flamingo are probably the best in town. The pools at Mandalay Bay and MGM Grand are more theme-park style, with lazy river rafting and even a wave pool. Or if you want something more energetic, the pools at The Palms and The Hard Rock are destinations for the young, pretty, party crowd. _______________________ Silver Spring, Md.: Hello. We are planning a trip to Las Vegas from October 9-14, 2008 to celebrate our 10th wedding anniversary by renewing our vows. We're staying just off the strip at the Wyndham Grand Desert. Most of our original wedding party and spouses (and some with kids) are coming out for the celebration and we're trying to find a nice mix of planned group events with free time. Can you suggest options for daytime as well as nighttime activities suited for a group of 15-20 late 30-somethings? We'd like to do one girls/guys night out as well, if you have any ideas for places that are fun but where we could still talk a little! We're especially interested in places with outdoor bars or seating. Finally, we're total foodies, so any restaurant suggestions that won't completely break the bank would be helpful. Thank you, Shelley Rick Garman: First off, Happy Anniversary, Shelley! The first part of your question is tough to answer since I really don't know your taste or your budget, but if it were up to me I'd suggest daytime outings to things like the Atomic Testing Museum, the Neon Museum, the Liberace Museum, or the Springs Preserve all of which offer really interesting experiences for pretty much all tastes. Daytime shows like the magic of Mac King at Harrah's or the ventriloquist act of Ronn Lucas at Exaclibur are also good options. For nighttime, you could try out some of the nightclubs although depending on your crowd you may want to stay away from the really "hot" clubs, which cater to a 20-something party crowd. Places like Polly Esther's at the Stratosphere, Prive at Planet Hollywood, and Tryst at Wynn Las Vegas are fantastic clubs in their own ways but tend to draw a slightly more mature crowd. For your gender specific nights out, the ladies should head to the male exotic dancers of Thunder From Down Under at Excalibur (much better than Chippendales) and the guys pretty much have their pick. It's that kind of town. And restaurants... wow... there are way too many to list but my new current favorite is Table 10 at Palazzo. It's Emeril Lagasse's new restaurant and the meal I had there recently is probably the best I have ever eaten in my entire life. _______________________ Somers, N.Y.: What is a really good place/attraction to visit in the Vegas area that is not traditionally "Vegas-y" (in case you are feeling casino'ed out)? Rick Garman: My favorite non-Vegas thing to do in Vegas is visit the Mirage Dolphin Habitat. It's a garden of Zen oasis in the middle of a lot of insanity. And who doesn't like dolphins? Other good options are the nature and history experience at The Springs Preserve and the fascinating exhibits at the Atomic Testing Museum, the Neon Museum, and the Liberace Museum, each of which specializes in telling a special part of Vegas history without being "Vegas." _______________________ Huntington Beach, Calif.: My niece is turning 21 and my husband and I are taking her and a few of her friends to Las Vegas to celebrate. Naturally, none of them have gambled much, if at all, before. We've given them some of the basics of 21 at home but it's different once you're at a real table. We want to take them somewhere where they can have some fun, not lose too much (low stakes) and it isn't intimidating for some first timers. Any suggestions? Rick Garman: Your best bet (pun intended) is to get off The Strip where the tables are usually expensive, crowded, and sometimes intimidating. Downtown Las Vegas is a good place to start, with gaming tables that offer lower buy-ins and dealers that can be very friendly and helpful (not all, but more than the average). Local casinos like Orleans, Boulder Station, Sunset Station, Green Valley Ranch, and others can offer similar experiences. My best advice on this is to scope out the tables before you sit down. Watch the players and the interactions they are having with the dealer. If everyone is sitting there dour faced and concentrating on their cards it might not be the best place for you, but if there is a lot of conversation and kibitzing, that could be the spot to start. _______________________ Overland Park, Kans.: What are the best places with the best odds to play Video Poker? I've been told to avoid "The Strip" if I want the best chance to win and to go to the outlying casinos. "It's where the locals go to play." Rick Garman: The casinos on The Strip have historically lower payback than any other part of the city when it comes to slots and video poker. Plus, you'll find fewer video poker machines in the casinos on The Strip. So yes, get off The Strip for better odds and more options. Casinos at places like Palace Station, Boulder Station, Red Rock Resort, Green Valley Ranch, Orleans, Fiesta, and others have tons of video poker machines of all denominations and they often pay out higher than what you'll get on The Strip. _______________________ Southborough, Mass.: We're ending a trip west in Las Vegas on September 23rd and 24th. There will be four travelers. How can we find a good deal on hotel rooms for two nights? And if we want to see the Bette Midler show, is it better to try to get tickets through our hotel than from Ticketron? Rick Garman: As with any destination you have to do your work to find the best deal. Check the hotel website reservations systems (where you will usually find the best prices) or make phone calls. It can be time consuming but it's really the only way to ensure that you're finding the best rate. Better Midler tickets are only available through Ticketmaster—you can't get tickets directly through the hotel unless they are making special arrangements for a favored guest. And in general I recommend avoiding the ticket resellers—they usually hike up the rates and add on a lot of additional fees that make the tickets even more expensive than they already are. _______________________ Hollywood, Calif.: I'm going to Vegas with some friends, but can't afford much. Forget about gambling or expensive meals and shows. And I don't drink. Is there anything else to do? Or will I be totally bored? Rick Garman: Ask your friends to pay! What are friends for? But seriously... One of the greatest things about Las Vegas is that it can be just about any type of vacation destination you want it to be. So you can't afford to gamble or eat at expensive restaurants or see high priced shows? That's okay because there are plenty of cheap but terrific restaurants like Lotus of Siam (probably one of the best Thai restaurants in the country) or M&M Soul Food (gravy—that's all I'm saying). There are also some inexpensive entertainment options like Mac King at Harrah's—a terrific afternoon comedic magic show that will only set you back about $25. And then there are the interesting attractions like The Springs Preserve, the Neon Museum, the Atomic Museum, and the Liberace Museum just to name a few. And even though you may not be able to afford to buy, you can do a lot of window shopping at some of the most entertaining malls in the country, from the Forum Shops at Caesars Palace to the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian to the Las Vegas Premium Outlet mall near Downtown. And as far as gambling... they have lots of penny slots these days. You can afford a penny, can't you? _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: I'm planning a trip to Vegas but not sure when.... So in helping me decide, taking all things into consideration, including ticket availability: Elton, Bette or Cher? Which one should I try to see? Rick Garman: I have been a fan of Bette Midler's for a long time so I'm a little biased here but taking all three shows into account, I'd really have to say that the Divine Miss M's is the most entertaining of the three. She sings, she dances, she tells bawdy jokes, and delivers a level of showmanship that is hard to match. Don't get me wrong, Cher delivers an over-the-top extravaganza like she always has and it's a lot of fun and Elton... well, he's Elton John! But for my money, I'd go see Bette every time. _______________________ New Orleans, La.: Now that Celine's finished her run, where will I find the best Celine impersonator? Rick Garman: I can't guarantee a Celine impersonator since their rosters change often, but you're going to have your best chances at the long-running impersonator shows like Legends in Concert at the Imperial Palace, La Cage aux Folles at The Riviera, or American Superstars at The Stratosphere. Although since Celine is Canadian, maybe not the latter. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: The Killers and a few other big rock bands have come from Las Vegas in recent years. Where would I go if I wanted to see the next generation of up-and-coming Vegas rockers? Rick Garman: There are a bunch of small bar and concert hall venues around that draw the best of the local band scene. The Double Down Saloon and the Bunkhouse Saloon are a couple of examples as is Zia Records, one of the few remaining independent record stores—they have regular in-store concerts and a big section of CDs from local bands. Check online with the Las Vegas Weekly for the best rundown of concert listings around town. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: If you could only go to one of the high-end celebrity chef restaurants, which one would it be, and why? Rick Garman: My new favorite restaurant in the entire city is Emeril Lagasse's Table 10 at The Palazzo. Here's the story I like to tell about the place: They make their own bacon. They get the best pork they can find, cure it for a week in a mixture of Granny Smith apples (ground up) and spices then smoke it over hickory wood. The kicker is that they do this to be able to put homemade bacon bits on salads. That's the kind of attention to detail the place offers. It has a very diverse menu, with plenty of fresh seafood, prime Angus beef dishes, many of Emeril's favorites with the New Orleans flavors he's famous for, and more. I can't say enough good things about it. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: Can you mention one or two good restaurants that are OFF the strip and don't cost a fortune? Where do locals go out to eat and avoid the hordes of tourists? Thanks! Rick Garman: I can mention dozens of restaurants off The Strip that are great and affordable—that really is the key if you want to find good food at prices that won't max out your credit cards. But for the purposes of this discussion I'll pick a couple of my favorites. Austins at Texas Station on the north side of town is probably the best steakhouse in the entire city, with steaks that melt in your mouth, a warm ambience, impeccable service, and costs that while not exactly cheap are a solid $10-20 less than what you'll pay at comparable and sometimes inferior steakhouses on The Strip. I also love M&M Soul Food on Charleston just west of Downtown, with terrific down home southern cooking at affordable prices; Hash House a Go Go on Sahara a few miles west of The Strip and their "twisted" farm food; and any location of the local favorite sandwich shop Capriotti's, which offers up fresh Italian and traditional subs that will make you forget about those nationwide chain places forever. _______________________ Key West, Fla.: Where is the cheapest place to get tickets for Las Vegas shows? Rick Garman: Tickets2Nite and Tix4Tonight have multiple locations around Las Vegas that offer same day, half-price show tickets. You'll never find the high-end shows like Cirque du Soleil there but you can get seats to a lot of the "B" list productions. Obviously you have to be flexible with your schedule and can't be terribly picky about what you want to see, but if budget is your main concern this is the route to go. If you don't have that kind of flexibility or have a specific show you MUST see then the best route is to book directly through the showroom box office. Avoid online ticket resellers—they'll tack on a lot of additional fees that you shouldn't have to pay. _______________________ Siloam Springs, Ariz.: Our Collette Canyonland Tour ends in Las Vegas at 3 pm on Oct. 8, 2008, staying at Planet Hollywood Hotel for 2 nights and flying home on Oct 10 at 6 pm. We are free 10/8 from 3 pm on until 8/10 late afternoon. What local tour can you suggest—like to visit Hoover Dam and other attractions in area—not gamblers. Also interested in 1 or 2 night shows—suggestions. We could rent a car for a day—suggestions? Rick Garman: Gray Line offers a bunch of local tours, from Hoover Dam to Red Rock and even the Grand Canyon if you have the time. They are a very dependable and well-regarded company so they are probably your best bet if you want to go with an organized tour. If you want to rent a car then the sky is the limit. Hoover Dam, Red Rock Conservancy Area, Lake Las Vegas, Lake Mead, Valley of Fire... all are well within driving distance and offer some great scenery and/or recreation or entertainment offerings. In terms of shows that's a tough one to answer since I don't know your taste or budget but if I could only see one show while I was in Vegas I would want it to be a show I couldn't see anywhere else like one of the Cirque du Soleil productions or a headliner such as Bette Midler or Cher. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: Rick, we're planning a trip to Las Vegas this August, and we're thinking of bringing our kids—an 11-year-old boy and an eight-year-old girl. Other than Circus Circus, are there any other hotels that have kid-friendly attractions? And what restaurants are best for our finicky eaters? Thanks. Rick Garman: Circus Circus is the only casino hotel on The Strip that is appropriate for kids these days. All of the other hotels that used to be "kid-friendly" like Excalibur and MGM Grand now have adult-themed shows or nightclubs that will probably cause you more grief than it is worth. If you want to stay at a casino hotel but don't have to be on The Strip then places like Orleans, South Point, Green Valley Ranch, Sunset Station, or any of the other "local" hotels have a lot offerings that can be more entertaining for kids such as bowling, movie theaters, video game arcades, and in the case of Fiesta Rancho, even an ice skating rink. And if you don't have to be in a casino hotel then there are plenty of brand name national chain hotels around the city, many of which are very close to The Strip (especially along Paradise Road). As far as restaurants... the best bet is always a buffet. With so many choices they'll have a hard time saying they can't find anything to eat! The best moderately priced ones are at Harrah's and Rio or at the off-Strip hotels like Santa Fe Station or Red Rock Resort. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: I'm traveling to Vegas with my family (2 adults plus 2 young children, ages 3 and 5) and another family (2 adults plus 2 teens). We are looking for a fun place to eat—something unusual, quirky, different, and definitely not stuffy—for dinner. Food quality is important, and service should be at least somewhat decent. On the strip is a plus, but not necessary. The experience should be something that everyone talks about after the trip and when you tell your friends, they say, "Wow, where is that?!?" Can you suggest something? Rick Garman: Interesting question... I have a couple of things in mind here. Pampas Brazilian Grille at the Miracle Mile Shops at Planet Hollywood is definitely interesting and different. It's a traditional Brazilian grill with servers who wander the room serving various cuts of meat on skewers and a small buffet portion. The food is terrific and the experience is unique. I also really like Café Ba Ba Reeba at the Fashion Show Mall—it's a tapas restaurant so great for sharing and lively conversation. The food is great and since it's all small portions it would probably be really good for the small kids in your group. Lastly I would recommend Fellini's at The Stratosphere. It's one of the best kept secrets on The Strip, tucked away into an almost hidden corner of the casino and serving up some of the best Italian food in the city with traditional "old world" service. _______________________ Brigantine, N.J.: I have such a desire to visit Las Vegas. I live on a little island next to Atlantic City, and I don't go the casinos, but Vegas just seems so fascinating to me. Could you please tell me what is the best time of year to visit there? Thanks, Sally Rick Garman: Hello, Sally! It depends on if you want the best weather and the most options of things to do or if you want the cheapest rates—the two are usually mutually exclusive. The summer months of late June through August and then parts of December, January, and February are the slowest times in Vegas and therefore provide (usually) the lowest room rates. However the weather isn't great (hot in the summer, chilly in winter), there are fewer headliner shows, and some regular shows, restaurants, and pools (winter) shut down. Late spring and early fall are the best times of the year for great weather and lots of stuff to do but they are also usually more expensive than you'll find at other times of the year. But room rates vary wildly in Las Vegas so just because you try to book a trip during one of the peak times doesn't mean you won't get a good rate somewhere. _______________________ Houston, Tex.: Is there any way to score great last minute 4th of July air & hotel packages? Rick Garman: Airline travel is going to be difficult at this point but you could get some good hotel rates. You just have to do the work of calling and/or visiting the hotel websites to check what they have available. There is no magic bullet for getting great deals in Vegas—you just have to go and look for them. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: Any Las Vegas off-the-beaten-path ideas? We are not gamblers and have done the strip millions of times. We are looking for something different. Rick Garman: The Neon Museum is probably one of my favorite little known tourist options. It's the big dusty lot where they keep all of the old signs from classic Las Vegas casinos—you've probably seen it in movies and television shows. It's now available to tour by the general public and it's a great way to connect with Las Vegas history. The Springs Preserve is a brand new attraction in Las Vegas. It's only a couple of miles from The Strip and focuses on the land and nature around Las Vegas and how it helped form the city. There's an interpretive center (complete with a faux flash flood using thousands of gallons of water), nature trails, live animal exhibits, outdoor concert venues, a Wolfgang Puck cafe, information on sustainable building and energy options, and much, much more. Fascinating. Another good option is to go where the locals go—visit hotels and casinos like Green Valley Ranch, Red Rock Resort, South Point, Texas Station, and others where they offer lots of lower cost gambling options, affordable restaurants, and lots of other entertainment options like bowling, movies, and more. _______________________ Pittsburgh, Pa.: I'm looking for an air excursion to the Grand Canyon as part of my vacation in Las Vegas. What I want is a plane ride to the canyon (and possibly over it) and time on the ground at the canyon itself. What should I be looking for to find the best deal? Is it better to book in advance for an August 10 trip or will I find bargains waiting until I am actually in Vegas? Your comments would be greatly appreciated. —Michael Rick Garman: Hi, Michael. The one tour airline that I usually recommend is Scenic Airlines. They offer a number of tour options at reasonable prices and have a sterling reputation and safety record. They aren't the only one around but they are considered to be among the best. _______________________ Redlands, Calif.: My husband and I are foodies on a budget. Any recommendations on your favorite low-key dining spots close to the strip? We are staying at Paris. Rick Garman: There is so much great food in this town, it's hard to know where to begin. I mentioned Lotus of Siam in another posting above. Gourmet Magazine called it the best Thai restaurant in North America and they were not exagerrating. Wonderful flavors, a huge menu of options, and very affordable prices. Just make sure to make reservations—even though it's in a rundown strip mall and doesn't look like much, it isn't easy to get into. It's about a mile east of The Strip on Sahara. True foodies can appreciate a good sandwich and you'll find some of the best of the breed at Capriotti's, a local chain of shops that specialize in Italian subs. Bursting with flavor and very affordable. There is one on Sahara about a block just west of The Strip. I have already raved about Table 10 here but I want to mention again that while it isn't cheap, it isn't as shockingly expensive as you might expect a celebrity chef restaurant on The Strip to be. It's at Palazzo. Ming is a great little Chinese restaurant at Imperial Palace. It's only a few tables and it's not easy to find in the hotel but they serve up some fantastic, authentic, and very inexpensive dishes. And lastly, I'd be remiss if I didn't direct you to the great desserts at the Chocolate Swan at Mandalay Bay and The Cupcakery in Henderson. The Chocolate Swan does handmade everything, including my favorite chocolate covered caramels and they are absolutely amazing. I'm a chocolate snob and I consider them to be the best I've eaten. I'm also a cupcake snob and The Cupcakery does them better than any other place I've tried—and I've tried a lot! _______________________ Rick Garman: It looks like that's it. Thank you to everyone who took part in today's chat—I appreciate you taking the time. If you want to know more about Las Vegas, be sure to check out the new edition of my guidebook, the Moon Handbooks Las Vegas or visit me online at Vegas4Visitors.com. Have a great day, everyone! See you in Vegas!