Trip Coach: December 2, 2008

December 2, 2008
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Alex Robinson, who's written extensively on Portugal and Lisbon for DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, answered your questions.

Alex Robinson:Hello Everyone. Greetings from a cold, dark Europe! I'm Alex—I write and photograph for books and magazines in the US and UK and I specialize in Portuguese-speaking countries. It's a pleasure to be here with you to talk about one of my favorite destinations—Europe's hidden treasure, Portugal.

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Bloomington, Ind.:Hi, Alex. We were in Lisboa in late fall 2007 and have wanted to return ever since. We are a couple in our fit early 60's and are interested in beautiful cities & towns, historic places, as well as the countryside and natural areas. We like to walk a LOT and that is our main activity. We don't like tours and are good navigators. However, we enjoy hearing about a place from knowledgeable locals. We'd like to meet people if possible. He's a judge and I'm a planner. Questions:

1. Best season to visit Portugal with best weather and prices and least tourists?
2. Where to stay in Lisboa, Evora and... where else to go?
3. How to meet people? Town walking tours?
4. Natural parks for light day hikes.
5. Any other tips? Package companies?

Thanks for your advice.
—Susan

Alex Robinson:Hi, Bloomington. Well, here are some thoughts:

1. Best season to visit Portugal with best weather and prices and least tourists? The early Spring or Autumn are good times—say March or mid-September. The weather is generally good—with long, warm days and there are fewer tourists.
2. Where to stay in Lisboa, Evora and...where else to go? In Lisboa I'd choose the Bairro Alto Hotel or the Heritage Av Liberadade—a new boutique in a historic town house. Both are close to the centre. The Bairro Alto has a very good restaurant.
3. How to meet people? Town walking tours? It's generally pretty easy to meet people informally in Portugal and many locals speak English. If you want something more organised then companies like Portugal Walks and Walking Europe offer a broad range of walking tours both guided and self-guided.
4. Natural parks for light day hikes. I like the Serra da Estrela in the centre of the country. It's one of the wildest parts of the country yet, as it's bisected by roads, it offers light and short walk as well as longer hikes. The long u-shaped Vale de Zezere valley is particularly pretty in spring—with wild flowers and deep green grass and there's a waterfall nearby, the Poço do Inferno.
5. Any other tips? Package companies? The companies I have listed above will be helpful for what you're looking for. I'd hire a car, buy a Michelin map and a guide (Cadogan are good), and drive inland from Lisbon....

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New York City, N.Y.:Is there any particular site, attraction, or event that you would recommend for a family traveling in Portugal with a 16- or 17-year old teenager?

Alex Robinson:Think about going in July and attending the Festas de São João in Porto. Thousands of people of all ages descend on the UNESCO world heritage historic city center to watch a big fireworks display and hit each other over the head with floppy, squeeky plastic hammers. There's nothing quite like it anywhere in Europe. Alternatively you could visit the Azores and go whale-watching and diving. The islands have more species of whales and dolphins passing through than pretty much anywhere else in the world, including Moby Dick himself—the sperm Whale.

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Phoenix, Ariz.:Where are some good places in Lisbon for authentic (not for tourists) Fado?

Alex Robinson: There are a huddle of places in the streets around the castle which are unreliably good—depending on who's playing. I agree that it's not fun to feel part of a huge tourist crowd, but for the best quality I'd opt for the middle way. The Clube de Fado is a little touristy but it is always good. It's run by one of the country's great masters of the Portuguese Guitar, Mario Pacheco and the shows there are first rate...choice quality stuff not just a pantomime for visitors....

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Santa Barbara, Calif.:We (mother and college-age daughter) want to go to Portugal in the spring. We will get around by train, possibly fly in to Lisbon and out by Madrid. Our total time is close to 3 weeks. Any itinerary suggestions? Is it best to do the open-jaw flight like this? Thank you for your help!

Alex Robinson:Spend ten days in and round Lisbon visiting the city, Sintra and Casacais, the pretty medieval village of Obidos and heading in land to Evora. Return to Lisbon and take the train to Coimbra—one of Europe's oldest university cities. Take the train inland from here to Guarda from where you can organise hikes into the beautiful Serra da Estrela mountains (enquire at the tourist office for local tour operators and buses—on Praça Luís de Camões T271 20 55 30). From Guarda you can catch the train across the border to Salamanca—another beautiful medieval university town in Spain, Avila with its famous castle and then Madrid.

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Greenfield, Mass.:I am retired and would like to budget tour Portugal with an eye to spending several months a year there. I can invest 3 or 4 weeks to this project. When would be a good time of year to go? What would be a good rough itinerary?

Alex Robinson: I'd go in spring—say March or April and fly into Faro in the Algarve. Look into flights with TAP via Lisbon and also cheap flights to London and then a return charter airline fare from there (check cheapflights.co.uk or netflights.com or ebookers.com). Faro has good connections to the rest of the Algarve by train and bus. Lagos and Sagres have good cheap hotels and Cabo São Vicente where Henry the Navigator invented caravels and opened the world to discover is spectacular. Trains run from Faro to Lisbon. Head there next and explore the city, Sintra, Obidos and Evora, then gradually head north stopping at Fatima, Tomar (with an incredible castle built by the templars), Coimbra (old university town) and fly home from Porto.

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Wichita, Kans.:We will be traveling by Crown Princess cruise ship to Lisbon on Thursday, June 18th. Six are traveling together, all adults ranging in age from 40 to 60. Three husband & wife couples. None of us have visited Lisbon before. We are interested in taking an excursion offered by the cruise line. We'd like to see the best sites on our one day in Lisbon. Would you suggest we see the Jeronimos Monastery, tour Gulbenklan Museum, explore the 7 hills on a tram ride, a guided walking tour of the Moorish quarter, experience Evora, or visit the Medieval Village of Obidos? Those are just some of the trips offered by Princess cruise line. Any information you can give us will be welcomed.

Best regards,
Karen

Alex Robinson:Hey, Karen. I'd be inclined to go for Jeronimos, the Gulbenkian and tram ride. The former is a spectacular baroque monastery which is quite the equal of anything in Paris and the best of its kind in Portugal (with the possible exception of Batalha Abbey). The latter one of the world's finest collections of artefacts and objets d'art from Europe and Asia and Lisbon is very pretty—especially by tram....

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Silver Spring, Md.:My husband and I (both in our 60s) will be in Lisbon prior to a cruise with Crystal on November 12, 2009. We would like to spend a few days in a comfortable hotel centrally located for sightseeing. Any ideas?

Alex Robinson: The Bairro Alto is perfect—in the heart of the old upper portion of the city center near many of the fine churches and within easy reach of the 18th Century center (by life or cab) and many of the (albeit touristy) fado houses, bars and good restaurants at night time. The hotel restaurant—Flores—is one of Lisbon's best. Take an upper-story room for views.

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Burbank, Calif.:In your opinion, what is your favorite place for a holiday on the Algarve?

Alex Robinson:I like the quieter places—not that there are too many. For a different option, why not base yourself in the hills in the pretty, tranquil little town of Caldas de Monchique and visit the beaches rather than vice versa? The coast around Sagres is very dramatic and has some secluded beaches...and Silves has a dramatic Moorish hilltop castle.

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DeKalb, Ill.:My husband and I, retired academics, will be in Lisbon in March for 10 days. We're experienced independent travelers and enjoy walking (and using public transportation) in cities. What area of Lisbon would be the best to look for a moderately-priced hotel if we would like to be walking distance to some sights and to restaurants in the evening? Our preference is for smaller locally-owned hotels over large chains.

Alex Robinson: I'd look around the Bairro Alto or Avenida Liberdade just north of the 18th Century city centre (aka the Baixa). I'd suggest the small Heritage hotel group—all are small, quiet, intimate, locally owned and central. My favorite is their Av. Liberdade hotel. The walk from this hotel along Avenida da Liberdade is enchanting—cutting through pracas dotted with traditional Portuguese cafes, taking in many of the beautiful art nouveau buildings and quirky shops, and you can hop on a tram pretty much anywhere.

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Philadelphia, Pa.:Hello, Alex. I am planning a trip to Portugal in the spring and would like to know what is the ideal amount of time to spend in Portugal to see the major sites and also relax. Also, how long should I stay in places like Lisbon, Porto, the Algarve, etc.? Do you have any recommendations for hotels which are a great value in these places?

Thanks!
—Donna

Alex Robinson: Hey, Donna. 3 weeks is a good amount of time. I'd spend a week to ten days around Libson (hotel—Pensão Londres is a good-value, centrally-located cheapie).

The Algarve is really just a package holiday beach destination and not very interesting to my mind—unless you venture inland to towns like the old spa resort of Caldas de Monchique (with its pretty hills and quaint central square) or the castle town of Silves.

If you visit and want to stay on the coast opt for Lagos and allow a few days; and try and visit Cabo Sao Vicente and Sagres—where Europe ends and looks longingly out from barren cliffs over a wild and bottle green Atlantic towards the Americas.

Heading north from Lisbon, Coimbra is a gorgeous historical city and you can visit Tomar along the way—the old Templar knights headquarters—with a dramatic castle and a graveyard covered in occult symbols weirder than anything in the Da Vinci code.

I also love the little towns that lie along the Spanish border—Castelo de Vide, Monsanto, Marvao etc... (allow a week for these).

Porto and the Douro valley (take a boat trip and come back by train) need 2-3 days. The faded Grand hotel de Paris is an OK deal in Porto or you could opt for a hostel like Oporto Poets Hostel on Travessa do Ferra 13. There are a number of others listed on sites like hostelworld.com.

Think about flying into Faro and out of Porto...and as well as asking for deals on TAP Air Portugal make enquiries about a flight via London as it may prove cheaper—esepcially if you use a UK budget airline like Easyjet (though watch the baggage allowance here).

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Chicago, Ill.:Does Lisbon have a Red Light district? If so, where is it?

Alex Robinson:Hmmmm, well...I am not sure that there's a city anywhere without one...but I'm no expert on the details. My advice would be to ask a cab driver when you arrive.

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Delray Beach, Fla.:Hello. We're looking to head to Portugal for the 2010 New Year. There will be anywhere from 4 to 8 of us. All (crazy) women—all in our 40s (two of them speak Portuguese/Brazilian). Some flying from Miami, others flying from Charlotte, NC. How do the Portuguese celebrate the New Year? What events/festivities should we consider attending?

Thank you,
Ibrey

Alex Robinson:Hi, Ibrey. They certainly do. I'd head to Lisbon which will be buzzing and packed with people—out to watch the huge firework displays in the Baixa (downtown) and cramming the myriad bars and clubs of the Bairro Alto.

As ever when celebrating in Portugal try and be with the locals. A good way to do that is to get in touch with Live a Local Spirit. It's run by Alice Moura. From what you say she'd be perfect for you—she has a very small tour agency that integrates tourists with locals, she is half Portuguese and half Brazilian, speaks perfect English, is very well connected and loves to party.

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Detroit Lakes, Minn.:Alex, we are planning a small family reunion trip to Portugal—Lisbon and the Algarve—from Christmas to early January. We understand that this is not the high season for tourism. What can we expect for weather conditions at that time? Will we find restaurants and tourist sites open at that time? What sites in the southern half of Portugal should we be certain to see during our stay?

Alex Robinson:Well it's certainly not the best time to visit. Expect it to be cool (though not cold) and wet; with a combination of grey skies—broken by occasional days of blue sky.

Faro—16 degrees Celsius with an average of 5 hours sunshine and 10 cm of rain.
Lisbon—15 degrees with an average of 5 hours sunshine and 11 cm of rain.
Porto—14 degrees with an average of 4 hours sunshine and 17 cm of rain.

Restaurant and hotels will be open—other than the smaller establishments on the Algarve. All the tourist sites are open. Don't miss Lisbon, Sintra, the dramatic windswept coast near Sagres (Cabo São Vicente). And venture inland to Evora (a beautiful medieval town replete with Roman remains) and the fortified towns and villages of Estremoz, Castelo de Vide and Marvao. The latter is one of the prettiest medieval villages in Europe (far prettier than the far more vaunted Obidos)—with a complete medieval wall, sugar cube houses an imposing castle. There's a very good pousada you can stay in there—in a grand old mansion and with magnificent views out over the Alentejo plains. And there will be no tourists at all.

Forgive me giving temperature in Celcius!

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Costa Mesa, Calif.:What do you consider to be the best time of year to go there, and which city do you prefer to start a three-day visit?

Alex Robinson:I'd go in spring—April—before it gets really hot and before the tourist numbers get heavy. For so short a visit stay in Lisbon—with side trips to Sintra and possibly Evora.

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Wilmette, Ill.:My wife and I are interested in taking our three-year-old son to Portugal. Do you have any recommendations for a week-long itinerary in June? Thank you for your anticipated response.

Alex Robinson: I don't think the beaches in the Algarve will be anything special for those who have visited Carolina, Florida or California but if you want a child-friendly beach, choose to stay in Albufeira. This site has a list of activities for children on the Algarve.

I'd be inclined to visit Lisbon and Sintra (with its odd fairy-tale castle), Evora and Porto (where you can take an enchanting boat trip on the Douro). Lisbon's Oceanario is great for children of all ages and it's the second largest in the world. The zoo has a little train and the Ciencia Viva museum (the former knowledge pavilion from Expo) has hands-on exhibits for children as young as two.

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Morgantown, W.Va.:I am attending a conference in Lisbon in June 2009. How is the bicycling in that city? Where does one rent a bike and how much do rental bikes cost?

Alex Robinson: Lisbon is very hilly and drivers are not as courteous as in the USA or UK. There are also many trams. That said it is possible to cycle here. Bicicletanacidade.blogspot.com is a blog (in Portuguese) devoted to biking in the city. Bikeiberia.com can organise bike rental throughout Spain and Portugal.

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Alex Robinson:Thanks so much to all of you for writing in. I am so sorry I didn't have time to reply to everyone!

I also write about Brazil and have a new book coming out early next year with Footprint, so if anyone plans on going there then check my guide out.

You can reach me through my site or my blog.

All the best and bye bye,
Alex

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Trip Coach: November 25, 2008

Sheila Beal: Aloha fellow Hawaii travelers. I'm Sheila Beal, the editor of Go Visit Hawaii and I'm a big Hawaii travel enthusiast! I'm excited to be here with you today because I really want to help you make the most of your Hawaii vacation. So, let's get started with answering your questions. _______________________ Acworth, Ga.: When is the best time to book a resort, and how much lead time should I allow to begin planning my trip? Sheila Beal: Aloha Acworth, Georgia–Let's answer your question about when is the best time to book a resort in Hawaii first. To get the best rates and fares, try to avoid holidays like Thanksgiving, Christmas, and Easter. Generally, you'll find the best weather combined with the best hotel rates in the months of April, May, September (after Labor Day), and October. I should mention that with the economy being a bit topsy-turvy at the moment, that some of the typical cost patterns we normally see are thrown out the window. For example, January, February and March are typically in the high (cost) season, but I'm seeing some pretty enticing deals for those months. As for your question about how much lead time for planning your trip, if this is your first trip, you might want to allow two weeks to a month for your planning. Here's a link to the steps I normally take when I plan my own vacations to Hawaii. _______________________ Arlington, Va.: My husband and I are expecting our first baby in July, and would like to take a vacation—our last alone together for awhile!—in March or April. Hawaii is high on the list of possible destinations. We're normally very active and adventurous, though I'll need to take it a bit easier than normal at that point. What Hawaii destinations and activities would you most recommend for us at this special time? (As a side note, we don't scuba dive or surf.) Many thanks! Sheila Beal: Hi Arlington—Congratulations on expecting your first baby! Here are my thoughts on where to go for a pre-baby retreat in Hawaii in March or April: - I think both Maui and Kauai have an abundance of great scenery and allow you to be as relaxed or as active as you want. In March and April, I'd recommend that you try to stay towards the drier, southern end of either Maui or Kauai to avoid rain. - Ko'Olina resort area on the southwest side of Oahu might be a good fit as well. Oahu has more museums than any other island. As far as activities beyond the excellent sight-seeing, I'm sure you'll probably want to be careful with the little one on the way. With that in mind, consider a luau, whale watching (from the shore, Maui is a particularly good island for whale watching), star gazing, and spa treatments (Hawaii has world class spas). _______________________ Boston, Mass.: What is the best (and worst) time of day to visit the USS Arizona site? Sheila Beal: Aloha Boston–Aim to visit the USS Arizona very soon after it opens at 7:30am to avoid crowds and reduce/prevent your waiting time. For that very reason, I'd also avoid late afternoon arrivals. The National Park Service's Web site has quite a bit of useful information about planning your visit. I do recommend that you check it out and particularly note the strict security guidelines. _______________________ Dunellen, N.J.: My husband and I will be traveling to Hawaii for 10 days next September/October. We are in our late 20s and are more budget/adventure-oriented travelers, though we are willing to splurge on this trip a bit because it will be our five-year wedding anniversary. We plan to spend some time on the beach, but we would also like to do plenty of activities like hiking. How many islands should we try to cover, and which ones? I am leaning towards Maui, Oahu and Kauai, but I feel like that may be too much. Please advise. Sheila Beal: Hello Dunellen, NJ–Your question is a very good one and I think you are on the right track in feeling that three islands in 10 days may be a bit much. My advice is to pick two islands to reduce your transit time and get the most out of your vacation. Now the next challenge is picking two out of the three that you've selected. That is a challenge, indeed! You can't go wrong with any of them. If you love hiking, I definitely recommend that you keep Kauai in your plans. I love hiking too, and Kauai is one of my favorites for hiking. Now the tough part is choosing between Oahu and Maui. Again, you can't go wrong. It's really a toss up. Maui is less built up than Oahu, but Oahu has quite a bit of budget friendly things to do. I suggest that you have a look at the island visitor bureaus Web sites and order their free vacation guides and see if that helps you narrow down your selection. Here are links to their sites: Kauai Visitors Bureau Oahu Visitors Bureau Maui Visitors Bureau Another tool that might help you decide is that Blue Hawaiian Helicopters has a very nice series of virtual helicopter tours online. You'll be able to virtually visit the islands and compare them and see what catches your eye. You can access all their virtual tours from here I hope this helps. Good luck in choosing your islands. Remember that you can't make a bad choice and chances are you'll fall in love with Hawaii and return to the other islands in the future. _______________________ Burnet, Tex.: My husband and I are planning to visit Hawaii in April 2009 and are looking for an escorted land tour. The only one I have found on line is Perillo Tours. Is there another company there operating land tours? Sheila Beal: Hi Burnet, Texas - Here are some companys that offer guided tours: Roberts Hawaii Polynesian Adventures Discover Hawaii Tours _______________________ Mount Prospect, Ill.: We are planning a trip to Hawaii next fall. My most difficult decision is what island--the Big Island, or Maui? Also, Resort or smaller hotel/condo development? Thanks Sheila Beal: Aloha Mount Prospect–I can completely relate to the difficult task of deciding which island to visit. Even as many times as I have been to Hawaii, I still have trouble deciding among all the good choices. You can make a bad decision between Maui and the Big Island. They both have great scenery and activities to offer. Here's what I especially like about both: Big Island - The active lava flow is here and if you are lucky enough to see it flowing at night, it is absolutely spectacular. Bear in mind that there are no guarantees that the lava will still be flowing next fall. - The Big Island has more diversity of terrain and climates. - You can practically have two different vacations here on the same island. For first time visitors to the Big Island, I recommend at least couple of nights stay in Hilo or Volcano for exploring the lava activity and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Then, I recommend another 4 or more days on the Kohala Coast. Maui - The road to Hana is quite possibly the most beautiful drive in the world. - Catching sunrise from the top of Haleakala (10,000 feet above sea level) is really a memorable experience. As far as where to stay, I quite like the Waikoloa Beach Resort on the Big Island. The resort has a couple of hotels, several condo communities, golf courses, shops and restaurants all within walking distance. On Maui, the Kaanapali Beach Resort is similar, but with more hotels. If you decide on Kaanapali, I recommend staying towards the central or northern end of the resort where the beach is wider. Kapalua resort area is quite nice on Maui and a bit more quiet. The Ritz-Carlton Kapalua is out of my vacation budget, but I have stayed in the Kapalau condos which are more economical, plus some give you resort benefits including the use of the beautiful Ritz-Carlton Kapalua cascading pool. I hope these thoughts help in your decision making. You'll enjoy Hawaii no matter which island you choose! _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: I am traveling to Hawaii for the first time in February. During my week-long trip, would you suggest staying and exploring one island or trying to see two or three? Sheila Beal: Aloha Chicago–I'm sure Hawaii will come as a welcomed warm respite from Chicago's cold weather in February! If you are going for a week, I recommend you just choose one island. There are two main reasons for this advice. First, there is more than enough to see and do on each island to fill a week. (Note: Lanai and Molokai might be slight exceptions to this rule depending on how active you like to be on vacation.) The other reason is that you lose quite a bit of time in packing, checking out of the hotel, flying or taking a ferry to another island, and checking into another hotel, which can quickly eat quite a chunk out of your valuable vacation time. _______________________ Chicago, Ill.: Which island is the least touristy? Sheila Beal: Molokai is the least touristy, in fact, there's only one hotel on the entire island. If I had to choose the least touristy of the others, I'd choose Kauai. One aspect I really like about Hawaii in general, is that you can go sight-seeing and on hikes and sometimes feel like you have the the place all to yourself. _______________________ Leavenworth, Kans.: Where is the cheapest place (from the mainland) to fly to Hawaii? Which airlines give the best deals? Sheila Beal: Hello Leavenworth, Kansas–The cheapest fares I generally see are from Los Angeles (LAX). In fact, at the moment, Hawaiian Airlines has a deal for $223 round-trip plus taxes and fees from LAX to HNL (Honolulu). Sometimes there are airfare wars that defy logic. For example last summer there was a fare ware on and for a brief period of time, you could get round-trip tickets for under $300 from Charlotte, NC. One of the best weapons for finding cheap airfare is to sign up for custom e-mail alerts from sites like Kayak.com, Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, Orbitz.com, etc. Some airlines will also offer e-mail alerts, too. Good luck in finding an excellent fare to Hawaii! _______________________ Ann Arbor, Mich.: We'll be traveling to the Big Island over the last week in December, staying in Kapoho (near Hilo). Will restaurants be open then? If so, are there any family-oriented restaurants (we'll be 7 people, from age 6 to mid-60s) that you would recommend? Anything good to do for New Year's Eve in Hilo? Thank you! Sheila Beal: Hi Ann Arbor–You are wise to wonder about restaurants being open around the Holidays. Most restaurants in hotels will be open, others will be hit or miss. If you have a particular restaurant in mind, do call them in advance. For breakfast and brunch, Ken's House of Pancakes advertises to be open 365 days per year. As far as anything special to do for New Year's Eve, I checked with the helpful Big Island Visitors Bureau and they aren't aware of special event (like fireworks) for the evening. One activity that I might suggest is to go see some of nature's fireworks, e.g., the active lava flow into the ocean near Kalapana. It's not a very difficult or far hike to see the lava flow and it is roped off so that you don't get too close to danger. I called the folks who manage the lava viewing site to see if the viewing point would be open for the holidays. They said that baring any wind issues, they do plan to keep the lava viewing point open every day. You do need to be prepared, so see my tips for watching the lava flow. Enjoy your holiday time in Kapoho! _______________________ Richmond, Va.: We are doing a 7 day cruise of the Hawaiin Islands with several other couples all in our 50-60's with no children. We will be there in September 2009. None of us have ever been there before. What are the must do's? We will be in the usual places that the cruise ships stop. Sheila Beal: Hi Richmond–I like to direct people to what makes each island special and to the most beautiful scenery. For example, I don't want people to miss Waimea Canyon and Kokee State Parks on Kauai or the amazing Waipio Valley on the Big Island. I actually wrote a series of articles on what I would see and do with only one day on each of the islands. You can access each of the articles from this post The good news is that with the exception of renting a car, the scenery is free! Enjoy your cruise of Hawaii! _______________________ Denver, Colo.: My mom loved Maui, and I would like to spread her ashes there. Are there laws which regulate this? And where would be a good place to let her loose? Sheila Beal: Aloha Denver, Colorado–I'm sorry for your loss. Maui is a lovely resting place. Here's what I found on this Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources Web site Q: Is scattering of ashes on land permitted? A: Generally speaking, no environmental permit is required for scattering of cremated ashes on land, sea or from the air from the Department of Health, but this should be done discreetly and some distance away from the general public. Ashes may not be dispersed within a state forest reserve or watershed area, nor on state or federal property. Scattering on private property should be done with permission of the owner. For information call the Department of Health, Current Registration Section, at 808-586-4540. If you don't know where your mother's favorite places were, then perhaps a lovely beach would be a good scattering point. DT Fleming Beach in Kapalua is one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. I would advise that you call the Department of Health phone number listed above to double check that that location would be acceptable. _______________________ Houston, Tex.: How far in advance should I book a hotel room for Waikiki Beach to get the best deal if I am traveling in late May? How far in advance do the hotels start discounting rooms? Thanks. Sheila Beal: Hello Houston–That's a very good question. With our economy as it is today, there's not an absolute answer. I do keep a close eye on hotel deals. At the moment, I'm not seeing many special deals beyond March 2009. If I had to guess for when the deals for May are going to start to be advertised, I'd guess those would start popping up around January. May does tend to be in the low season of prices, so I bet you'll be able to get an excellent deal. _______________________ Burlington, N.J.: We are planning on visiting Hawaii in October of 09. What Island/Islands would you recommend visiting? (There will be 4 of us all 63 years old. Probably be our only trip there. Planning on 9 or 10 days. Sheila Beal: Aloha Burlington, N.J.–First off, you might want to consider a cruise so that you will get to see the highlights of all the islands a week. You could spend the extra two or three days on Oahu where your cruise will most likely start and stop. If a cruise doesn't appeal to you, With 9 or 10 days, I'd recommend you select no more than two islands to visit. I know it's challenging to select the islands, but rest assured, they are all fantastic and have things that make them special and unique. (Though I've been to them all several times, I still don't have a favorite!) To reduce the amount of time you spend traveling from one island to the other, you may want to choose Oahu and an outer island. The reason being is that the Honolulu airport (HNL) is the hub for the vast majority of inter-island travel. To help you narrow down the best island for you, order the free travel guides from the island visitors bureau and take a virtual helicopter tour on BlueHawaiian.com Kauai Visitors Bureau Oahu Visitors Bureau Maui Visitors Bureau Hawaii's Big Island Visitors Bureau _______________________ Bedford, Tex.: I know there are tons of wedding planning info for the Hawaiian islands on the web. However, we are in the planning stages of designing a wedding trip to one of the islands to include a ceremony then stay for a week to honeymoon. Our guests will be attending then vacationing themselves for the week after the service as well. As someone who knows the area well, can you please advise of a place or island/area that would be a your suggestion for a great location? We are hoping to marry in a beautiful ocean side site or in a romantic tropical church. The options are overwhelming and it is our first trip to the islands. Any relevant suggestions and/or wedding planners that you would trust to recommend if you were planning such an event? Thanks—I am at my wits end and the opportunity to ask an expert was just too good to pass up. I appreciate any advice you may have! Sharon Sheila Beal: Aloha Sharon - How exciting to be planning a wedding in Hawaii! I can understand how overwhelming the plans can be. The good news is that many Hawaii resorts offer on-site weddings and can plan the entire day for you. As far as suggestions for a great location, oh my, there's tons and tons of great places in Hawaii! As I read your question, one place came to mind right away. That's Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu. They have a lovely open air "chapel" that's located right along the shoreline with a sunset view. Oahu is one of the easiest islands to get to because the airport in Honolulu (HNL) is a major hub. So that would make traveling a bit easier for you and your guests. As far as other ideas, the Kauai Marriott has lovely outdoor wedding grounds. There's a quaint church in Kapalua in Maui, that comes to mind, too. Perhaps this post will offer some helpful tips about planning a wedding in Hawaii. In that post, you'll find a link to a useful Budget Travel destination wedding planning guide. Feel free to ask more questions in the comments of that post. _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: I have a major birthday (60) coming up in July, 2009. I wanted to rent a house on Oahu for me and my 8 to 10 closet friends. I am particularly interested in the North Shore. Do you have any ideas of how to find houses? Also, none of my friends have ever been to Oahu. Suggestions for activities and adventures would be helpful. Thanks, Lisa Sheila Beal: Hi Lisa–Happy upcoming birthday! When I look for a vacation rental, I normally start with VRBO.com (Vacation Rental By Owner) I've generally found the best rates that way. Just a couple of words of advice, do carefully vet the rental homes that you are considering. I ask the owners a lot of questions and must see lots photos before I feel comfortable to rent from that person. If possible try to pay with a credit card for added protection. One high-end recommendation from Wendy Perrin (a trusted source from Concierge.com),is HawaiiHideaways.com. As far as activities and adventures: Here are my suggestions for budget-friendly Oahu activities _______________________ Haleyville, Ala.: My wife and I want to travel to Maui for a couple of weeks beginning on April 20th, 2009. We would either fly from Huntsville, Ala. or Nashville, Tenn. Right now, flights from these two places are extremely high. Any chance the cost of airfare may come down for our desired time of travel? Thanks for any advice. Sheila Beal: Hello Haleyville, Alabama–I sure wish I knew the exact answer to your question, but unfortunately, there's no way to predict that, particularly in our present economy. Here's a couple of thoughts for you: - Sign up for custom e-mail alerts from your desired departure cities on Web sites like Kayak.com, Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, Orbitz.com, etc. Airlines also offer offer this type of free alert service. - Orbitz.com has a guarantee that if you purchase a flight and someone else purchases the exact flights for less, they'll automatically refund you the difference. I hope you find a great airfare bargain! _______________________ Denver, Colo.: I'm wondering if cabs, gas, groceries and fast food restaurants are generally priced the same in Hawaii as they are in the western states? I'm planning to travel to Hawaii in 2010. Sheila Beal: Hi Denver–In general, groceries, gas, and fast food does cost a little more in Hawaii as compared to the U.S. Mainland, but not outrageously so. Public transport on buses is quite reasonable, though. _______________________ Fairfax, Va.: My wife and I will be celebrating 30 years of wedding bliss next March. We would like to finally visit the Islands. While I am completely satisfied with the beach she loves tennis. Can you recommend a good place to stay? Sheila Beal: Happy upcoming anniversary! With the combination that you described, the first place to come to mind is either the Mauna Kea Resort or its sister location at the Hapuna Prince. Both resorts are on the sunny Kohala Coast of the Big Island with great beaches and with a shared ocean-side tennis complex. _______________________ Boston, Mass.: I will be traveling with my daughter, my son-in-law and my twin grandchildren aged four. The trip is planned in early March on the Island of Kauai. All of the adults are active, i.e. kayaking, hiking scuba diving. Obviously the four-year-old twins have the usual limitations of four year olds. Do you have suggestions for a family itinerary which would be out of the ordinary? Sheila Beal: Hi Boston–Here are some suggestions that are appropriate for the whole family. - I'd certainly not miss these "must see" Kauai ideas - A luau would be something that the whole family would enjoy.I might suggest Gaylord's Luau Kalamaku where you can add on a train ride through tropical plantation grounds. - A catamaran cruise of the Na Pali Coast, if you are not prone to sea sickness. (Even if you don't get sea sick, you might want to take precautions.) There are some tours that combine a snorkeling/diving trip with a Na Pali Coast boat cruise. Those are typically morning cruises, and the great thing about morning cruises is that's when the dolphins are very active, so there's a great chance you'll see dolphins. - The humpback whales should still be around Kauai's waters in March. They are amazing creatures. If you don't see them on a catamaran cruise of the Na Pali coast, you might want to take a whale watching cruise. - Kauai is excellent for hiking, particularly in Kokee State Park. I could suggest some hikes, but I'm not sure how far the grandchildren might be able to go. So, I recommend that you stop in at the Kokee Museum (admission is free) and describe the types of hikes you may be looking for and they will be able to suggest some trails to match the whole family's skills. You can also purchase trail maps for a nominal fee there. - Here's a collection of other itineraries that may spur some additional ideas for you. I hope these ideas help. Enjoy your family vacation in beautiful Kauai! _______________________ Denver, Colo.: My husband and I will be arriving on the island of Kauai on Wed., December 3rd and will be there until the night of December 6th. We are staying at the Sheraton resort. We are interested in sailing and kayaking while we are there. Do you have any suggestions? Sheila Beal: Hi Denver–If you aren't prone to getting sea sick, then I'd recommend a Na Pali Coast catamaran sail. The coast is gorgeous and if the water is smooth enough, it should make for a very peaceful cruise. Note that winter surf tends to be rougher than summer surf. If you do take a catamaran cruise, be on the look out for humpback whales when you're not admiring the Na Pali. You won't be able to do any sea kayaking in December. (Late May - September have conditions suitable for kayaking the Na Pali Coast.) Kauai has some excellent rivers for kayaking. Wailua River is very pretty as is Hanalei River. Wailua River is closer to where you'll be staying, so I'd be more inclined to chose that one since you only have 3 days on Kauai. There are tour companies who will supply the kayak and perhaps lunch for you. Alternatively, depending on your skill level and ability to transport a kayak, you could rent a kayak on your own. If you choose a kayak tour provider for the Wailua River, I might suggest you look for one that also includes a short hike to Secret Falls. _______________________ Phoenix, Ariz.: Our United Airlines flight from San Francisco arrives in Honolulu at 4 pm. Our connecting flight on Hawaiian Airlines to Kapalua, Maui departs at 4:50 pm. What is the quickest way to get from United to Hawaiian Air in this brief amount of time? Sheila Beal: Hello Phoenix - Here is a diagram of Honolulu Airport. According to the diagram, United flights typically arrive at gates 6–11. I suggest you call Hawaiian and ask from which gate your flight to Kapalau normally departs. You'll then have an idea of where you'll be going and the quickest route. You'll find some information centers in the airport. Feel free to ask them for directions and advice. There's a train called the Wiki Wiki that is supposed to help you transport to the terminals. Personally I've never found the train to be Wiki Wiki (e.g. fast) at all. I always opt to walk over using the Wiki Wiki. Based on my experience, I'd estimate that it probably won't take you more than 15 minutes to walk to your gate. I hope your United flight arrives early, so you won't have to rush. Enjoy Maui! _______________________ Swansea, Mass.: Where can you get a car rental for a month in Feb. without paying the outrageous prices at the airport rentals? Thanks C Sheila Beal: Hi C from Swansea, Mass–That's a good question. I'd start with a travel search tool like Kayak.com to first see what the cheapest rates are over February. Then, you might want to call the car rental office directly on the island that you are going to visit and try to negotiate. There are a few local rental companies in Hawaii that wouldn't show up on a travel search engine. You should check their rates as well. They are island specific companies. Since you didn't mention which island you'll be visiting, here's a trick you can use to help you find those local companies. First open a browser for maps.google.com then enter the name of the island you'll be visiting and click "search maps". Once the map of the island is displayed, you'll see a pop out box on the map pointing to the island. In that pop out box, click "search nearby". Another box will open and in the search nearby field enter something like "rental car" and you'll find results that include the locally operated companies as well as the big national companies. _______________________ Independence, Mo.: My son lives in Maui and he is planning on getting married Aug 26, 2009 close to Lahaina. My wife and I plus daughter and husband and 4 yr old boy are planning on being there for a week 8/22/09 to 8/28/09. Is it possible to find a condo in that area for less than a $1,000.00? Or would we be better off finding a hotel/resort? Sheila Beal: Aloha Independence - You're much more likely to find a condo for under $1,000 than hotel rooms that would accommodate four adults and a child. It may be a bit of a challenge to find a condo for less than $1000, but I think you'll come very close to it. Staying in a condo can really help stretch your vacation budget, plus they add quite a bit more privacy and conveniences. Check out VRBO.com (Vacation Rental By Owner) Try to negotiate with the owners. Also, try to protect yourself with these tips: - Try to pay by credit card for your own protection - Make sure you see plenty of photos so that you know what you are getting - Ask the owner as many questions as you can think of and don't be afraid to ask for references from recent vacation renters. I hope you find a great bargain in Maui! _______________________ San Diego, Calif.: We will be visiting Lana'i next February. What should we be sure not to miss? Thanks. Leonard Sheila Beal: Hello Leonard–Lana'i in February will be excellent for whale watching, so don't miss that. You can watch from the shoreline or take a whale watching cruise. From the Four Seasons at Manele Bay, you'll find an excellent vantage point. Don't miss the hike to Koloiki Ridge for an excellent view of the gulch and nearby islands. Don't miss Hulopoe Beach which is great for sunbathing and if the water is calm enough, snorkeling. If you go there in the morning, there's a great chance you'll see dolphins. They love this bay. Many people get to swim with them. You'll also find Puupehe (Sweetheart Rock) in this area, so do take the short hike out to see it. Check out my Lanai articles for more ideas. _______________________ Winston-Salem, N.C.: Could you recommend a website that has a listing of condos to rent for the week in Oahu or Maui? Sheila Beal: Hi Winston-Salem–VRBO.com is a site that I've used with good luck. Also, see the previous answers for Independence, MO and Seattle, WA. _______________________ Harrisburg, Pa.: I am thinking about a helicopter tour in Kauai. What company would you recommend? Sheila Beal: Aloha Harrisburg–Kauai is perhaps the perfect island for taking a helicopter ride. I do advise that you do your homework before you select a company. Check out safety records, seating configurations, etc. Here's all my tips for choosing a helicopter tour in Hawaii I took a tour with Inter-Island Helicopters and I liked this company because they don't use doors. Having no doors adds a slight bit more risk, but you are well strapped in. The benefit of not having doors is that your photos will probably come out better because you won't have to contend with window reflections. Enjoy Kauai from the air! It is spectacular! _______________________ Cape Girardeau, Mo.: I've noticed that brochures on Hawaii show May at it's lowest fares for the year. Why is May considered the "off" season? Sheila Beal: Hi Cape Girardeau–That's an excellent question. Let me say first that May is an ideal month to visit Hawaii because of the rates, weather, and lack of crowds. May is considered low season for these two main reasons: - Spring has arrived on the US Mainland and the "snow birds" aren't anxious for a retreat from the bitter cold of winter. - Children are still in school and summer vacation is just around the corner. So families aren't there on vacation. _______________________ Washingtonville, N.Y.: Sheila, We are an older couple (55 & 64)going to Kauai next Sept. This is our first time and we're not sure whether to stay up north, stay south or go on the east side. All of these places look great! We love sunsets, exploring, and relaxing on the beach. Where would you suggest? Thanks Sheila Beal: Hi Washingtonville–I can relate to your dilemma. I also had a difficult time deciding where to stay on Kauai. Based on the things that you mentioned that you like, I'd steer you either to the South in the Poipu area or on the North Shore near Princeville. Since you like sunsets, I'd skip the East. You can't go wrong with Poipu or Princeville. Personally, I prefer the Princeville area because of the nearby lush green mountains and I think the North Shore beaches are particularly stunning. You are more likely to encounter a brief passing shower on the North Shore, though. No matter where you choose, you can pretty easily get from one end to the other to explore and get back in the same day. _______________________ Colorado Springs, Colo.: We are planning on visiting Hawaii in late June. It will be my parents (80's), my husband & I (58 & 62), and our children (son, daughter, & daughter-in-law 30's). We want to visit Honolulu for a few days and then rent a house on the Big Island for a week. Can we get a package with flights and a hotel in Honolulu and then rent a house and buy that flight separately? What is the best way to find a house to rent - individuals or a rental agency? Any recommendations? We want to see Pearl Harbor and the cemetary at the Puchbowl. My Dad served in the Pacific in WW II and my husband and daughter are WWII buffs. Is there any way to take public transportation or do we need to get a cab? We weren't planning on renting a car in Honolulu. We will on the Big Island. Most of us will be leaving from Denver or Colorado Springs. Our son & his wife wil leave from Portland. Thanks. Jo Anne Sheila Beal: Aloha Jo Anne from Colorado Springs–Most of the internet travel sites aren't really designed with the amount of flexibility you need for the situation you described. To get a package price for flights and just Honolulu hotel, you'll probably need to work with a travel agency. In some of the previous questions, I've mentioned VRBO.com as a good resource for finding vacation rentals. Please see those answers for tips. If you don't want to rent a car in Honolulu, then you might want to consider tour companies that will pick up at or nearby your hotel and take you to the see the sites you mentioned. Since you are WWII buffs, you'll love Oahu! If you choose a tour company to take you to Punchbowl, if I'm not mistaken, I think Roberts of Hawaii is the only tour company that is allowed to stop and let the passengers walk around. Please double check that, though. Don't miss the excellent view of Honolulu from Punchbowl while you're there. As far as public transportation, also check out Oahu's excellent bus system online at TheBus.org You can use Google Transit as well to help you navigate to the sites of your interest. _______________________ Newland, N.C.: I'm hoping to take my Mom to Oahu for the New Year. Where's the best place to see fireworks? Thanks! Bonnie Sheila Beal: Hi Bonnie from Newland, NC–Honolulu will have some spectacular fireworks for New Year's Eve. For certain, there will be a fantastic display from the Aloha Tower Marketplace. I've been told that there will also be fireworks from Waikiki Beach, but no details have been released, yet. _______________________ Atlanta, Ga.: Can I get a free flight if I book with a hotel? Sheila Beal: Hi Atlanta–Oh, how I wish that was the case! Unfortunately, I've not heard of any free flight offers from hotels. Do bear in mind that there are some excellent deals available now that make Hawaii much more affordable than it was, say, a year ago. The flight and hotel deals are particularly good if you can complete your travel to Hawaii before December 21st. _______________________ Elmira, N.Y.: Which company on Oahu is best for snorkeling? Sheila Beal: My advice is to check reviews of Oahu snorkeling companies at TripAdvisor.com _______________________ Sheila Beal: Thank you for all your excellent questions. I invite you to to visit Go Visit Hawaii where you'll find more tips to help you have a great Hawaii vacation. I frequently share practical advice, unbiased reviews, and great Hawaii travel deals that catch my eye. Sign up for my free daily updates to stay in the know on Hawaii travel. Aloha and happy travels to Hawaii!

Restaurant Turkeys That Turn Heads

Deep-fried turkey, invented in Louisiana, has gained popularity throughout the United States, but it remains rare on menus. Brooklyn may be far away from Cajun country, but Jive Turkey, a restaurant and caterer in the borough's Clinton Hill neighborhood, deep-fries its birds year-round. Varieties include the Jamaican Jerk, the Cajun, and the Mexican Mole. Its takeout and delivery business naturally gets a huge boost around Thanksgiving and Christmas. Whole turkeys, most of which cost $54 the rest of the year, cost $76 around these holidays, but that doesn't prevent long lines from forming outside the small storefront. Another Cajun turkey treatment—the deboned turkey, duck, and chicken dish called turducken—can be obtained at the restaurant of the man who may or may not have invented it (accounts vary), but who definitely introduced it to the rest of the nation: Paul Prudhomme. His K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen, in New Orleans's French Quarter, serves this singular dish every year on Thanksgiving Eve for $15 (the restaurant is closed on the holiday itself). For those who would rather get their turkey flavored with a bit of the frontier, there's Rawhide Steakhouse, a restaurant at Rawhide at Wild Horse Pass, a re-created Old West town an hour southeast of Phoenix. This restaurant's turkey comes with a stuffing made of cornbread, poblano peppers, and chorizo sausage, so it's not exactly a Pilgrim Special. The prix fixe menu is $24 for adults. Lots of Italian restaurants are good at adapting their cuisine to the requirements of Turkey Day. At Alloro, which opened on Manhattan 's Upper East Side earlier this year, a $40 prix fixe for the day includes an appetizer of turkey meatballs covered in a veal sauce, and a main course turkey stuffed with prunes and served with pumpkin sauce. Asian restaurants have the toughest time incorporating Thanksgiving into their cookery, but that doesn't mean that many haven't tried. Ishq, a glam Indian restaurant in Miami, gives its turkey a South Asian treatment by spicing it with fenugreek, cumin, cinnamon, ground coriander, and cloves. The accompaniments, Brussels sprouts and a sweet-potato soufflé, however, smack much more of Boston than they do of Bombay. (The prix fixe is $49.) More ambitious still is Takami, a Japanese restaurant in Los Angeles that this year made the bird bite-size by introducing a turkey sushi roll, gravy included. Check out our blog for a firsthand account of this less-than-natural pairing. What unusual takes on the Thanksgiving meal have you found at restaurants? Tell us about them in the comments.

Trip Coach: November 18, 2008

Chris Rowthorn: Hi everyone! This is Chris Rowthorn and I'm excited to talk with you about Japan. So let's get started! _______________________ Petoskey, Mich.: For my last child's spring break we are considering Asia. This would be a two week trip (March 14-28, 2009). Is Japan going to be prohibitively expensive with the economy tanking? My family of four includes two teenage boys (18, 19) who enjoy the outdoors and active vacations. What will the weather be like and what part of Japan would you recommend for an outdoor experience? What is the best way around the language barrier? It seems like there will lots of deals available in the world and I don't want to choose one of the few places that won't have them. —Melanie Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the great question, Melanie! I am glad you raise the issue of costs, as it's something we all have to think about now. First off, I want to note that Japan is far more reasonable than most people think. Images of Japan as the most expensive country in the world date from Japan's so-called "Bubble Economy" of the late 1980s. Until the middle of this year (before the Subprime Crisis started wreaking havoc with exchange rates), Japan was actually the cheapest country in the developed world and it still may be so. This sounds counterintuitive, but this past summer I did some searches for hotels, transport and meal prices in Japan, Western Europe, North America and Australia/New Zealand, and I found that the facts bore this out. Japan was indeed cheaper than any of those countries. When I did this quick survey, the euro was very strong relative to the dollar and the yen was trading at around Y110 to the dollar. Now, the yen is about Y96 to the dollar, so the picture is slightly different. That said, Japan is still a great value, and it is still definitely cheaper than Western Europe, the United States and Australia/New Zealand. You can get very good twin hotel rooms for less than $100 in the big cities if you don't mind staying in business hotels, in which the rooms are small but clean. Budget ryokan rates are similar. You can rent cars for about $60 for a full day, as long as you have an international license, which you can get from AAA. The Japan Rail Pass is always a good deal. And you can eat full meals at lunch and dinner for about $8 per head at rice and noodle restaurants and shokudo, which are the Japanese version of your standard diner (tea is included and there's no tipping at Japanese restaurants). And there are two final points I'd like to raise on the issue of costs: Japan has had almost no inflation in the last decade, so prices are what they were 10 years ago; you cannot say that for Europe or North America. And, you get incredible value for money in Japan, because of the country's incredible service ethic. I just finished traveling for almost two months around Okinawa, and there wasn't a day in there where I didn't think to myself, "I can't believe how reasonable this all is!" Finally, I should add that the Japan's Central Bank does all it can to prop up the US dollar, so I wouldn't be surprised if the dollar gained back some ground versus the yen in the coming months. As for where to go, if you're coming in March, you should be looking at places south and west of Tokyo, as northern Honshu, the Japan Alps and Hokkaido will be too cold (unless you want to go skiing). I think Kyoto should be at the top of any itinerary, and there is great hiking in the hills right around Kyoto. You should also visit Nara. Tokyo is good if you want to see the modern Japanese urban phenomenon. The cherry blossoms sometimes start to open in Tokyo and Kyoto in late March (sometimes they wait until early April). You will be sure of seeing cherries further south and west, if you head down into Kyushu. If you like hiking and onsen (hot springs), you might consider heading to Yakushima, an island a few hours south of Kyushu by high-speed ferry. It's got great hiking around its peaks, stunning Yaku-sugi (cedar) trees and several good onsen. There is also good hiking in southern Nara in the Omine Range, in Shikoku, and in Kyushu. Note that the peaks may have snow on them in any of these areas during March, but lower elevations may well be warm. Finally, regarding language, I wouldn't worry too much about communication in Japan. In countries like China, the language barrier is just that: a barrier. In Japan, you will find that you can get around quite well with no Japanese at all. All train stations and airports have English signage, more and more restaurants have English menus (and we note those that do in Lonely Planet guides to Japan), and many Japanese speak some English. Just speak slowly, choose people who are likely to speak some English (educated people in their twenties and thirties are a good bet, particularly women, who seem to do better with English than their male counterparts), and be prepared to write down your question (Japanese people tend to do better with written English). I hope this helps! _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Hello! We will be in Kyoto over New Year's Eve and are interested in finding out about celebrations and gatherings that locals take part in. We are also interested in learning more about private tours in both Tokyo and Kyoto. —Wendy Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the great question, Wendy! Shogatsu (New Year's) is a great time to visit Japan. This is the biggest celebration of the year and the time when Japanese families gather together. It's kind of like Thanksgiving and Christmas or Hanukkah rolled into one. Japanese people usually visit a shrine on New Year's Eve, and sometimes on one of the first three days of the New Year. This first shrine visit is called Hatsumode. In Kyoto, the three most popular (and crowded) shrines for Hatsumode are Fushimi-Inari-Taisha, Yasakua-jinja, and Heian-jingu. I like the atmosphere best at Yasaka, and it's right above Gion, so it's convenient and near some good strolling. If you can't stand the crowds, choose a quieter shrine, like Yoshida-jinja. Some Japanese people also visit temples on New Year's Eve. Temples in Japan ring their bells as New Year's approaches. The big bell at Chion-in is a good place to see this, but it gets crowded. If you want to see this done at a local temple, I recommend Kurodani (also known as Konkai Komyo-ji). These will be your main options. It is difficult to join other celebrations, because Japanese people tend to celebrate at home with their families. Also, I should note that most restaurants close from December 31st until around January 4th, so you'll have to eat at your hotel or ryokan, at fast food restaurants, at chain restaurants or by buying food at convenience stores. As for private tours, I offer private tours of Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo through my website at chrisrowthorn.com. We specialize in small groups and walking tours that take you through the backstreets and into secret temples and gardens. Please contact me at any time via the email link on the website. I hope to hear from you! _______________________ Dover, N.H.: We're flying into Tokyo in June and only have 3 days. What would you suggest we do? Should we stay in Kyoto or Tokyo for a real Japanese experience? Thanks. Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the excellent question! Sounds like you've got your flight plans already fixed If you want a real Japanese experience, I STRONGLY recommend that you spend as much time as possible in Kyoto. You might ask your airline if they can tack on a domestic roundtrip from Narita to Osaka's Itami Airport, which is less than an hour from Kyoto by regular airport limousine bus. If that is not possible, then you could take the Narita Express to Tokyo Station and the shinkansen (bullet train) from there to Kyoto Station. The total travel time would be about four hours each way. Kyoto is very relaxing and it has the things that most Western travelers are seeking: temples, stone gardens, quaint preserved neighborhoods, etc. There are also many great ryokan, hotels and excellent restaurants. It's also compact and easy to explore, something which can't be said of Tokyo. I hope this helps! _______________________ Wailuku, Hawaii: My husband and I would like to go to Japan during the snow festival in Sapporo. We thought it best to attend the festival for 2 days (is this enough time?) and then leave Sapporo and the extremely cold weather conditions. We would like to visit Hiroshima/Miyajima, but wonder if it's too far away for this trip. Would you recommend staying more in the "northern" area (we do not like the weather if it's too cold). We have been to Japan just once before (October/November 2007) and went to Shinjuku, Ginza, Hakone and Takayama. We would plan on being in Japan for about 12-16 days. Thank you for you assistance. —Sandra Chris Rowthorn: Hi Sandra. Thanks for the great question! I think two days will be sufficient for the Snow Festival. And, if you don't intend to ski, then I think it makes sense to head south immediately after you see the Snow Festival, since it will be cold in Hokkaido and Northern Honshu in February. There are direct flights from Sapporo to Hiroshima and they cost around $450 right now. You could also fly to Osaka, which is convenient to Kyoto, which I highly recommend, especially since you have not been here yet. Frankly, Kyoto should always be at the top of any Japan itinerary. If you see nothing else, you should make a point of seeing Kyoto. You can reach Hiroshima in about two hours by shinkansen (bullet train) from Kyoto. If you crave warm weather, you could also consider Kyushu or even Okinawa. I hope this helps! _______________________ Seattle, Wash.: Hi, Chris. My husband and I want to travel from Seattle to Japan at the end of March with our baby daughter. We will be able to stay for free at a friend's place in Tokyo but would also like to take day or overnight trips to other parts of the country. We would like to know what kinds of short trips you recommend with Tokyo as a base? Also, what kinds of Cherry Blossom activities/festivals will take place in Tokyo or elsewhere at that time? Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the excellent question! Good day trips from Tokyo include Nikko, Kamakura and the Fuji Five Lakes area. If you're willing to do an overnight trip, then your options expand considerably. Kyoto, which as you can tell is my favorite part of Japan, is a little over two hours from Tokyo by shinkansen (bullet train). It's well worth the trip, as is Nara, which is about a half an hour from Kyoto by Kintetsu express train. As for cherry blossoms, they usually start to open at the very end of March in Tokyo. The main cherry blossom events are called hanami (flower viewing parties). In Tokyo, the best place for this is Ueno-koen Park, but you'll also find quieter and more secluded spots in the temples and gardens around the city. In Kyoto, Maruyama-koen Park is cherry blossom central, but, again, you'll find quieter spots around the city, including along the banks of the Kamo-gawa River. I hope this helps! _______________________ Novi, Mich.: Are there any vegetarian ryokans in Japan? I would love to stay at a traditional inn and I know food is a very important part of that experience, but being a vegetarian I am not sure if ryokans are able to provide vegetarian meals. Thank you. Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the interesting question! Most ryokans will be happy to prepare vegetarian meals provided you give them a few days advance notice. Also, you might consider doing a shukubo (temple stay) at one of the temples at Koya-san, which is a collection of Buddhist temples high in the mountains of Wakayama-ken Prefecture. It's about two hours south of Osaka by train. These temples specialize in traditional Buddhist vegetarian fare known as shojin ryori and the accommodations at the temples are similar to those in a good ryokan. Also, please note that Kyoto has several excellent vegetarian restaurants and we list some of them in the Lonely Planet guides to Kyoto and Japan. I hope this helps! _______________________ San Diego, Calif.: We're law school students and have a 48-hour stopover in Tokyo over Christmas Eve. What must we do that won't break the bank...or even bend it? Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the question! I understand your concern about not bending or breaking the bank! Please see my earlier reply re general costs in Japan. I want to point out that you can spend two days in Tokyo for way less than it would cost to spend two days in New York, Paris, London or Sydney, and you'll have a much better time and you won't have to stay in "challenging" accommodations. First, the cheapest way from the airport into Tokyo is the Keisei express, which costs just over $10 each way. You can find decent accommodations in several guesthouses in Tokyo for less than $50 per person, or you can get a twin room in a business hotel for less than $100 per room (you might consider booking in advance during this season). I'd go for the business hotel, and I might choose an interesting neighborhood like Shinjuku, Shibuya or somewhere near Ginza or Tokyo Station. Meals will run less than $10 per person if you eat where the salarymen eat. Buy yourselves a Tokyo Combination Ticket for about $15 and you can travel all day on the subways, JR line and buses. Tokyo is more about strolling than any particular sights, so admission fees won't eat up too much loot. I hope this helps! _______________________ Castro Valley, Calif.: Besides your own books, what is a good source of detailed (e.g. lines, names, etc.) information on the public transportation systems within Tokyo? Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the great question! Undoubtedly, the best source for transport information in Tokyo is the Tokyo Metro's site at tokyometro.jp. I hope this helps! _______________________ Brooklyn, N.Y.: I want to know about a nice "onsen" or hot springs near Tokyo, Fuokuoka and Hiroshima. Thanks! Chris Rowthorn: Thanks for the great question! You've homed in on one of my favorite topics: onsen. I recommend that anyone who visits Japan try an onsen at least one time. There are many good onsen near Tokyo, including Takaragawa Onsen and Jinata Onsen (on Shikine-jima Island). You could also try Azabu-juban Onsen, which is in Tokyo itself. If you're going all the way to Fukuoka, it makes sense to travel just a bit further to try to famous onsens in Beppu. And, in Western Honshu, I recommend Okutsu Onsen in Okayama-ken, Sekigane Onsen in Tottori, and Tamatsukuri Onsen in Shimane-ken. You can get more onsen picks in the most recent Lonely Planet guide to Japan, which includes a special onsen section. I hope this helps! _______________________ Chris Rowthorn: I'd like to thank everyone who participated for some really great questions. For more ideas on places to visit, you might have a look at my blog at insidekyoto.com. I post pictures of the places I travel in Japan there, including a lot of pictures from my recent trip through Okinawa. I also offer consulting about Japan, trip planning, and private tours of Kyoto, Nara and Tokyo through my website at chrisrowthorn.com. I hope to hear from you! Thanks again! —Chris