8 Foreign Fast-Food Chains You Need to Know

Come autumn, Mother Nature's dazzling palette is the No. 1 roadside attraction. While it's great fun to drive through a forest of gold-and-crimson trees, sometimes you need a rest from the hair-trigger braking that's required on packed country roads. In an effort to minimize stress, we sought out places where you can see fabulous fall foliage without the crowds. These 12 dreamy islands have forest vistas interrupted only by sailboats, farm stands, and lighthouses. Plus, each of these destinations has something special to offer, from wine tasting to seal spotting to a gourmet culinary tradition. Consider this your guide to the mellowest leaf-peeping getaways imaginable. SEE THE  ISLANDS!   VANCOUVER ISLAND, British Columbia, Canada A wine trail adds a little buzz to the leaf-peeping in this valley.The Pacific Northwest does not leap to mind as a hotbed of dazzling deciduous trees, but this Canadian island is flush with larch and maple groves, which, come fall, provide a red-and-gold glow against a backdrop of oceans and mountains. Amid this kaleidoscopic patchwork of color, you'll find the vine-ruffled hills of sunny Cowichan Valley, the most popular of the island's three wine regions. The 17 wineries here specialize in white and burgundy varietals, but the Pinot Gris at Rocky Creek is a standout—it was the silver-medal winner in the 2011 NorthWest Wine Summit. After your tastings (you can print out a map of all of the wineries from the Wine Islands Vintners Association), drop by the town of Duncan to walk among the 80 totem poles crafted by artisans of First Nation (the tribe that has called this island home since 2,500 B.C.). Then head southwest about 15 miles to the San Juan River, where bull Roosevelt elk make their spooky breeding calls near leaf-covered hiking trails.Timing Tip: Foliage typically peaks in late September.Get There: Accessible from the mainland by ferry lines, such as BC Ferries. bcferries.com, Vancouver/Victoria round trip from $29 for adults, $14.75 for kids 5–11. HEART ISLAND, Alexandria Bay, N.Y. Fall colors are especially charming on this valentine-shaped island, with its Gatsby-esque castle.In the late 1800s, millionaires flocked to second homes in the Thousand Islands, an archipelago hopscotching the St. Lawrence River beside the Canadian border and dappled with colorful trees. Exhibit A: George Boldt, founding proprietor of New York City's Waldorf-Astoria. He bought Heart Island to construct a replica of a medieval fortress, complete with turrets and drawbridges. Sadly, Boldt's wife died before she could move in. The millionaire bolted back to Manhattan, taking with him the salad-dressing recipe the locals had shared with him while he was yachting through the Thousand Islands. Until its seasonal close on October 16, you can tour 120 rooms in the castle. The crimson sumacs, amber oaks, and yellow poplars that surround this monument to love are especially beautiful at their peak in mid-September.Timing Tip: Foliage peaks around mid-September. The state's fall foliage report makes it easy to keep abreast of changing colors.Get There: Shuttle boats from Alexandria Bay take you the quarter-mile distance to Heart Island. One operator is Uncle Sam Boat Tours. usboattours.com, $18.50 for adults, $9.25 for kids 4–12. Boldt Castle, boldtcastle.com, $7 for adults, $4.50 for kids 6–12.   CAPE BRETON ISLAND, Nova Scotia, Canada Drive on the winding Cabot Trail, with crashing ocean waves on one side and fall-foliage grandeur on the other.Arguably North America's most astonishing fall-foliage display happens each year when birches and maples burst into red-and-yellow glory along the edge of Nova Scotia's northeastern island—the part of the island protected as Cape Breton Highlands  National Park. Leaf-seeking travelers come to hike along Lone Shieling Trail—a footpath that winds through the park's Acadian forest. It's along this trail that you'll encounter one of the oldest sugar-maple groves on the continent. Scottish pride is also strong here: Many locals speak a Gaelic dialect, and the vibrant Celtic Colours festival spotlights folk music every fall. celtic-colours.com, October 7–15, 2011.Timing Tip: Peaks early October. See updates at novascotia.com.Get There: Connected to the mainland by a 4,500-foot causeway (no toll).   SHEFFIELD ISLAND, off Norwalk, Conn. Admire the copper-and-gold splashes of color that deck the trails of this scenic marine habitat.The now unused 143-year-old lighthouse is the high point, literally, of this island one mile off the coast of Connecticut. Ferry over from the mainland on a 45-foot catamaran, and hike a trail that passes through a nationally protected wildlife refuge, which covers 47 of the island's 53 acres with colorful deciduous trees, such as chestnuts (yellow-red), beeches (golden bronze), red maples (intense scarlet), and the state's signature white oaks (violet-purple). The island's most notable residents are the seals, who regularly migrate through this region during the winter and can be easily spotted along the shore. Alternatively, take a two-and-a-half-hour Fall Foliage Cruise study tour on Norwalk's Maritime Aquarium's research vessel Oceanic, during which you can inspect animals trawled from the harbor. That tour passes, but doesn't stop at, Sheffield Island. maritimeaquarium.org, $20.50 per person.Timing Tip: Leaves start to turn in mid- to late October. Check the state's foliage website, or call the foliage hotline for updates. 800/282-6863.Get There: From Seaport Dock on the Norwalk River, board the Norwalk Seaport Association's catamaran. seaport.org, $22 for adults, $12 for kids 4–12, $5 for kids 3 and under.   MONHEGAN ISLAND, off Port Clyde, Maine Painters have been drawn to this thriving artist's colony for a century because of its stunning views of Maine.The brilliant oranges, reds, and yellows of poplars, birches, and sumacs seem all the more colorful against the landscape of dark spruce and pine trees on Monhegan Island, about 10 miles off the coast of Maine. A dozen miles of trails snake around the island and are perfect for leaf-peepers and birders interested in seeing puffins and rare species, such as rusty blackbirds. Since the early 1900s, artists like Andrew Wyeth, Edward Hopper, and George Bellows have come here to sketch, paint, and take photographs. By late October, most of the approximately 20 artists studios have emptied for the season, but the village galleries, such as the Lupine Gallery and Winter Works, continue to display the artists' works.Timing Tip: Typically peaks in late September. Maine's foliage website postsupdates.Get There: From charming Port Clyde, Maine, hop a departure on the Monhegan Boat Line. monheganboat.com, $32 for adults, $18 for kids 2–12 (all fares are round trip). monheganwelcome.com.   DUFFERIN ISLANDS, Niagara Falls, Canada These islands have green slanted riverbanks and ancient waterways about a half-mile south of the Horseshoe Falls.Take in primo views of Crayola-colored leaf-scapes accentuated by green slanted riverbanks as you crisscross the Dufferin Islands. The 11 oases that make up this archipelago are known only by their collective name, but a 1.2-mile hiking trail links most of the islands via 22 small bridges. Researchers believe the waterways have been paddled by canoe-building natives for more than 3,000 years. A self-guided interpretative trail makes it easy to admire hickory oaks blazing orange while poplars and beeches glow yellow. Don't be surprised if you see artists setting up their easels to paint the gorgeous scenery.Timing Tip: Typically peaks in late September.Get There: Drive the Niagara Parkway, and take the exit for the Dufferin Islands. No entrance fee, but permits required for camping. niagaraparks.com.   LITTLE AMERICAN ISLAND, Voyageurs National Park, InternationalFalls, Minn. This little island is nestled in a lake full with fall color, but it alone went down in history as the site of a major gold rush in the 19th century.Bordering Canada about five hours north of Minneapolis–St. Paul, Voyageurs National Park is home to countless color-dappled islands. But Little American Island on the west end of the park shines for its history, too. The 1893 mini gold rush drew prospectors in a (mostly vain) hope for riches. Today, the only gold to see is in the bright autumnal color of the tamarack and aspen leaves, mixed with the crimson of red maple. Rent a canoe or rowboat to reach the island, where you can hike along a quarter-mile, wheelchair-accessible interpretative trail, which passes close to historic mine shafts and machinery.Timing Tip: Typically peaks mid-September. Check out the state's foliage website, or call the state's foliage hotline for more information. 800/657-3700.Get There: Accessible only by boat. Take Highway 11 east 11 miles to the park's Sha Sha Resort, where you can rent a canoe or rowboat and paddle north and west on Rainy Lake for about 20 minutes. nps.gov/voya, canoe rentals from $10 per day. ASSATEAGUE ISLAND, Eastern Shore, Va. Majestic wild horses hang out in the forested marshes near the ocean.The 300 or so wild mares and foals who strut through the state and national parks on Assateague and its commercialized sister island Chincoteague were made famous by the children's book Misty of Chincoteague. In late October, color-seekers hike or bike a 1.6-mile woodland trail to a few scattered viewing points, where the horses can be photographed at short distances. The 37-mile-long, completely wild Assateague is decorated with the reds and golds of red-maple, oak, and sweet-gum foliage, not to mention the shiny red of poison ivy that lights up the sand dunes, in sharp contrast to the shoreline's many evergreens. At the end of November, birders take to a 3-mile long wildlife loop to glimpse herons and egrets during their peak migration period.Timing Tip: Leaves often peak in late October. Check out the forestry department's fall foliage site, or call the state's foliage hotline for an update. 800/424-5683.Get There: For best wild-horse sightings and foliage colors, pass through Chincoteague, Va., to the south entrance of Assateague Island National Park. nps.gov/asis, $8 per vehicle.   GRAND ISLE, Lake Champlain, Vt. Stride through the cathedral quiet of a forested trail, with leaves rustlingunderfoot.Expect a Hallelujah chorus of color in this northern corner of Vermont. Grand Isle, also called South Hero Island, is one of just a handful of islands in Lake Champlain. Come late September, the entire 226 acres of the island's state park bursts into a cornucopia of color, with fiery red-sugar maples, sunny yellow alders, and purplish pin cherries as far as the eye can see. Learn about local history at the mini-museum in Hyde Log Cabin on Route 2—it was built in 1783 and is thought to be one of the oldest such structures still standing in the U.S. ($2 for adults, free for kids). Refuel on warm apple cider and donuts at roadside stalls while snapping photos of the island's many clapboard (pronounced "clabberd") houses.Timing Tip: Color usually peaks late September. Check the state's foliage Internet alert.Get There: Grand Isle is connected by a land bridge to the mainland by Route 2. vtstateparks.com, $3 for adults, $2 for kids 3–13, open until Columbus Day, October 10, 2011. MERCER ISLAND, King County, Wash. Enjoy the perfume of fresh cider and the spice of organic pumpkin pie from restaurants serving locally sourced food.Color-seekers in Washington State often head to Mercer Island, across from Seattle in Lake Washington, for its rare autumnal palette of changing leaves. This island of 6.2 square miles was once a retreat for the wealthy and has since become an upper-middle-class community of about 22,000 residents. Yellow-and-gold hues set the tone along the bike trails that crisscross the region. Find the best foliage in 113-acre Pioneer Park on the southern side of the island, where you're likely to see tamarack, vine-maple, red-alder, and Pacific-dogwood trees. The island's restaurant community, with its organic country cred, is a huge draw. Case in point is Bennett's Pure Food Bistro, whose meals contain ingredients sourced regionally and prepared without artificial additives. The menu changes seasonally, but at any given time you can expect to find fresh seafood straight from the waters off the coast of Alaska and vegetables foraged from Washington State. 7650 SE 27th St., bennettsbistro.com, entrées from $14.Timing Tip: Color peaks in late September. Call the state's foliage hotline. 800/354-4595.Get There: From Seattle, take Highway 90 and follow the signs.   MACKINAC ISLAND, Mich. Take a horse-drawn carriage tour on the only U.S. state highway that doesn'tallow cars.Mackinac (pronounced "ma-ki-nah") is a blessedly sleepy island known for its astonishing views of Lake Huron. Sights include picturesque Fort Mackinac, erected by the British in 1780 (admission fee for adults $10.50, kids 5–17 $6.50), and Grand Hotel, whose broad front lawn is decorated with lilac trees that have burgundy blooms in the fall. About 80 percent of the rest of the island is state parkland, from which cars have been banned for more than a century. Climb a limestone bluff to see yellows, reds, and oranges in the canopy of maple, birch, oak, and white cedar spreading outward in all angles. From some vantage points, especially on the southern part of the island, you'll see the majestic 7,400-foot-long Mackinac Bridge, the longest suspension bridge in the Western Hemisphere. Before you return to the mainland, try some fudge from Murdick's 124-year-old shopTiming Tip: Typically peaks early October, slightly later than the rest of upper Michigan. Check the state's foliage hotline. 800/644-3255.Get there: Mackinac State Park has no admission. Three ferry lines connect St. Ignace and Mackinaw City with the island (details at mackinacisland.org). Star Line has seasonal service that runs to the end of October 2011. mackinacferry.com, from $19 for adults, $10 for kids 5–12. NANTUCKET ISLAND, Mass. Fascinating dwarf trees, no neon signs or traffic lights, and photo-worthy sunsets make this an intriguing leaf-peeping locale.About 25 miles off the coast of Massachusetts, Nantucket Island braves strong Atlantic headwinds, a likely reason why its trees never reach great heights. Beech and oak trees that normally tower above the ground on the mainland reach only a few feet tall here. For leaf-peepers, this means that the fiery reds and brilliant yellows of fall hug the landscape in a unique way. The island's location east of the mainland also presents a westerly ocean panorama found almost nowhere else on the East Coast—it's a view that is sensational any time of day, but especially at sunset. Before sundown, rent a bike and loop through the cobblestoned carriageways of the island's downtown, emptied of summertime beachcombers, and admire the 800 or so mostly gray-shingled homes and shops built between 1740 and 1840. Young's Bicycle Shop, open since 1931, rents bikes from $10 a day. For local flavor, try to visit during the Harvest Fair on October 1 or the cranberry festival taking place October 8.Timing Tip: Foliage peaks around the third week of October. Follow the changes onthe state's foliage website.Get There: From Hyannis, several ferries serve Nantucket, such as the SteamshipAuthority‚ a one-hour high-speed ferry that sails back and forth year round. steamshipauthority.com, $35 for adults, $18 for kids 5–12.

READERS' TOP QUESTIONS How easy is it to rent a motorcycle?Traveling by motorcycle is every bit as awesome as you'd imagine, which is a good thing, since it's a bit of a hassle to get started. First off, it's not as simple as renting a car at the airport-chiefly because motorcycles aren't rented at airports. In fact, the whole process can be pretty complicated. Unless you've signed up for an outfitted trip (see our recommendations in "Two-Wheels, Three Ways"), you need to pick up a bike yourself. You can find motorcycles at independent shops or at one of the nearly 300 authorized Harley-Davidson dealers in the country. Eagle Rider, the world's largest motorcycle rental company, has franchises in 12 countries and 75 locations worldwide (eaglerider.com). But finding your wheels is the easy part. At the time of booking, most companies require a deposit (the amount varies), which won't be refunded unless the customer cancels a month or more in advance. No-shows are likely to be charged the full rental amount. Upon picking up a bike, a hefty security deposit of about $1,500 is also required (this is just a hold on your card, in most cases). Beyond that, the bike rental itself costs $100 a day and up, depending on the model. Insurance also costs extra (from $15 daily), though not all businesses that rent motorcycles sell insurance. If that's the case, the renter's own insurance policy usually covers basic liability. (Regular car owner's insurance doesn't cover motorcycle rentals.) Oh, yeah, and to rent any bike, you'll have to demonstrate experience handling a model similar to the one you want. The biggest hurdle of all, though, is that you also need a motorcycle license. So how do I get a license?Each state has its own written and road tests, but most offer a basic rider course in conjunction with the Motorcycle Safety Foundation (msf-usa.org). The course consists of five hours in the classroom and 10 hours of riding; prices vary widely, but they're often cheap—$25 in Illinois, free in Pennsylvania. Best of all, the use of a motorcycle is included. "All you need to sign up is a regular driver's license and the ability to balance a bicycle," says Ray Ochs, MSF's director of training systems. Don't get too excited: Most likely, you'll practice in a parking lot. When you complete the course, the written- and/or road-test requirements to get a motorcycle license will be waived in most states, but not all, so check in advance with the MSF. Courses are offered in 2,000 U.S. locations during warm-weather months, and autumn is actually the perfect time of year to sign up. "These programs can book up early in the spring, when people are sick of winter and eager to get on the road," Ochs says. "There's rarely a wait for students in the fall. Just remember to take some time to refresh your skills after the winter's over, because you may have forgotten what was taught in the class." Then I'm all set? Not so fast: Even riders with motorcycle licenses are sometimes turned down for rentals, if their skills aren't up to par. "Within about 10 seconds of watching someone handle a bike, I can tell if they're proficient enough," says Scott Mindich, who owns California Motorcycle Adventures, which rents Harleys in the Bay Area (800/601-5370, californiamotorcycleadventures.com, from $99 per day). "We discourage novices because our objective is to get the rider and bike back to us in the same condition they left." What are the most common rookie mistakes? Picking the wrong bike is a big one. The general rule is that the heavier and bigger the motorcycle, the more difficult it is to operate. "High-speed turns and cornering take time to master," Ochs says. "Newbies are often scared to really lean into the turns, which is necessary." Beyond that, the most common question Mindich receives is: What happens when it rains? "My answer's always the same," he says. "You get wet." Layers, including bike gear designed to keep riders cool in heat and warm in the cold, are best to deal with almost anything Mother Nature will throw at you. Finally, since there's no trunk on a motorcycle, you'll need to fit all your belongings in a bag small enough to strap to the bike. In other words, pack light. "Forget about the curling iron and the hair dryer," Mindich says. "Bring clothes for four days max, and do laundry if you have to." What should I think about when planning an itinerary?Gary McKechnie, author of Great American Motorcycle Tours (motorcycleamerica.com), says that the best roads for motorcycles come in two categories. "The 'twisties' are the exciting roads that make you feel alive, with bends and hills like a roller coaster, and lots of downshifting and turning necessary," he says, giving the Blue Ridge Parkway as an example. McKechnie also loves tranquil rides that meander through forests with the occasional small town mixed in (think New England). "When a road parallels a river, that's a good sign. Instead of screaming up and down hills, you're likely to be cruising along the river, with filters of sunlight and the sound of rushing water." In general, it's the same features that make any road trip great—music venues, quirky villages, neat shops, historical must-sees, gorgeous scenery. Some roads, while phenomenally scenic, are too hairy for a novice to enjoy on a hog; zigzagging, cliff-lined sections of the Pacific Coast Highway come to mind. It's also important to steer clear of road delays when the weather's less than ideal. "This is not a climate-controlled environment," McKechnie says. "There's no hiding from the elements with air-conditioning. There's nothing more horrible than being on a bike stuck in traffic on the sizzling blacktop." Are there ways to get deals on rentals or tours?The Hot Deals listed for different Eagle Rider locations can offer fantastic values—third day free, half-off rates during off-peak times, last-minute discounts on tours that depart soon, and one-way specials for bikes that need to be relocated. Individual rental outfits regularly post specials for certain bikes and pickup times too; California Motorcycle Adventures was recently renting a few older Harleys (2008 models) for $99 daily, compared to the usual $135. It's fairly standard to get a cheaper daily rate if you're renting for a longer time period, too, and if the company doesn't advertise such a discount, it's more than acceptable to ask for a price break (say, 15 percent) on rentals of seven or more days. Do I have to wear a helmet?Technically speaking, not always: It may come as a surprise, but there are no helmet laws in 30 states for riders over 20 years old. But still—is windblown hair really worth the risk? In 2006, some 65 percent of fatally injured motorcycle riders weren't wearing a helmet. So play it safe, and wear a helmet. Always. Your mother will sleep easier.   Two-Wheels, Three Ways: An outfitted motorcycle adventure for every skill set (and budget). BEGINNERRent a scooter in Tuscany. They may be laughed off by hard-core bikers, but scooters are the ideal solution for travelers who want to rev their engines but don't have the experience—or license—required to ride a hog. Scooters are lighter and easier to operate than motorcycles (no shifting necessary), and in most parts of the world, you can rent one with a standard driver's license; they're especially popular in the Caribbean and Europe. A classic Vespa is perfect for exploring the rolling hills of Tuscany, Italy. tuscanyscooterrental.com, from $85 daily. INTERMEDIATETake a guided tour of the Grand Canyon. Even after you've mastered the basics, you may have a few questions once you hit the open road. That's when it pays to have an experienced guide on hand. Edelweiss Bike Travel runs tours to every continent except Antarctica, including a fully guided eight-day trip around the Grand Canyon. The trip begins in Las Vegas, traces historic Route 66, visits the Hoover Dam, and takes in Monument Valley. edelweissbike.com, from $2,790 per person, with two people sharing a bike and hotels. EXPERTGo it alone in the Florida Keys. Besides renting bikes, Eagle Rider also runs tours. If you're a novice, you'll want to stick with their fully guided options—the extra assistance is worth the splurge. But if you're a competent rider with a bit of experience, their self-guided tours are a great fit. All the planning is taken care of, leaving you to simply enjoy the ride. Their seven-night tour through south Florida and the Keys includes bike and helmet rental, unlimited miles, and all accommodations. eaglerider.com, from $1,999 per person.   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT 10 Record-Breaking Bridges World's Most Interesting Beaches 5 Road-Tested Tips From an RV Rookie Secret Hotels of Paris 8 Items You Never Pack...But Should

The shelves of the Palate Gourmet Kitchen Store (W12102 Hwy. 35, thepalate.net, bottles of olive oil from $20) in Stockholm, Wis., are lined with the kind of specialty items only a true foodie would love (or know how to use): Asaro-brand orange-flavored olive oil, La Perruche cane sugar, Comptoir de Famille cheese knives, etc. "If we carry it here, then we've tried it, we've cooked with it, we've tasted it," says Nancy Fitzsimons, a former home-ec teacher who owns and runs the Palate with her daughter, Shana Finnegan. "Of course, you could buy all these things at a lot of other places. But some people want a little service and advice from someone who really knows the products—those are my people." That a small, family-run shop like the Palate can survive here, in the Upper Mississippi River Valley just south of Minneapolis, is no small feat. Not because the Twin Cities are lacking for foodies, but because the area has a sweet tooth for big-name stores. The first shopping center in the country debuted in 1956 in sleepy Edina, a Minneapolis suburb, and the 520-store Mall of America opened its doors in nearby Bloomington in 1992. Today, the Mall alone attracts more than 40 million visitors a year. The population of Minnesota: 5.3 million. But a funny thing happened in the shadow of all those superstores. An easy drive south of the Twin Cities, old-fashioned boutiques like the Palate are thriving. Of course, you have to get out of your car every so often to get to them. But what you lose in convenience by escaping the mall is more than made up for by what you see along the way: the rolling farmland and lost-in-time towns that converge upon the Mississippi River. The 140-mile-long corridor straddling the border of Minnesota and Wisconsin is especially beautiful, with towering limestone bluffs and deep, verdant valleys—sights unseen in the otherwise pancake-flat upper Midwest. Day 1 MINNEAPOLIS TO STOCKHOLM, WIS. 80 MILESLured by the promise of spectacular countryside and homespun charm, I set out from Minneapolis on Highway 52, past exurban outposts like Amish Furniture Store and Jake's Totally Exotic Dancers. Before long, the freeway gives way to cornfield-lined roads, and I pull into Red Wing, a treasure trove of late-19th- and early-20th-century architecture. A stroll in almost any direction will lead you past handsome examples of Victorian, Italianate, and Gothic structures, such as the 1876 Pratt-Taber Inn and the 1909 First United Methodist Church, both made from river-bluff limestone. Red Wing's shopping options are equally varied. At Hallstrom's Florist & Greenhouses rows of potted petunias vie for space with canisters of black licorice and freezers full of Door County cherry ice cream, a local favorite (317 Bush St, hallstromsflowers.com, Door County cherry ice-cream cones from $2.25). The nearby Uffda Shop specializes in Scandinavian imports, such as aebleskiver pans (for making Danish apple pancakes) and textiles, including brightly colored dishcloths (202 Bush St, uffdashoponline.com, Scandinavian dishcloths from $26). There's also the original Red Wing Shoe Store, founded in 1905, which carries heavy-duty footwear that's sold around the world (315 Main St, redwingshoes.com, factory-tour admission free). They display what they promise is the world's largest boot, a comically outsize model—16 feet tall, 20 feet long, seven feet wide, and size 638.5-D, for the record—that's become something of a roadside attraction. Between May and October, you can also tour the Red Wing Shoe factory, slightly west of town. "It's not like a car plant, where you'll see a bunch of huge machines simply rolling out parts," explains Red Wing spokesman Peter Engel. "This is true craftsmanship. There are 239 steps in the process of making every single shoe, and a lot of the procedures and the machines are the exact same today as they were 100 years ago." That preservationist spirit is even more evident in Old Frontenac, a former trading post on the river, a few miles south of Red Wing off of Highway 61. Old Frontenac was preserved almost by accident, after the railroads built in the mid-1800s bypassed it. Even today, the Civil War-era village is served by only one paved road; all the others are gravel. There's not a single street-light, stoplight, or chain store in sight. Instead, you'll find idyllic white clapboard churches and rambling Italianate-style homes, typically painted white with green shutters and offering knockout views of the river. This is the kind of postcard-worthy place that inspires real-estate lust. You know you're in Cheesehead territory when you drive across the Wabasha-Nelson truss bridge and walk into the Nelson Cheese Factory (S237 Hwy. 35, Nelson, Wis., nelsoncheese.com, "traveler's chubs" from $3.50). It's a dairy lover's dream, selling "traveler's chubs" (half-pound chunks) of dozens of cheeses, both typical (pepper jack and Colby) and artisanal (including Amish Gorgonzola and Valdeon, a Spanish-style blue). From there, meandering Highway 35 snakes around limestone bluffs and leads to Pepin, home to a Laura Ingalls Wilder museum. The author was born near here, and the town now hosts the Laura Ingalls Wilder Days every September, a two-day festival with bonfires, fiddle concerts, and a Laura Ingalls Wilder trivia contest (306 Third St., lauradays.org). Open from May through October, The museum's artifacts include her needle-work, metal stocking stretchers, and school records. Pepin is also home to the area's most renowned restaurant, the 31-year-old Harbor View Café (314 First St., harborviewpepin.com, open mid-March through first Sunday before Thanksgiving, entrées from $14). In the summer months, you'll often find a line out the door for dishes such as Alaskan halibut in a black-butter caper sauce or braised pork in a seasonal-fruit glaze. Six miles farther, in the town of Stockholm, I check into the Spring Street Inn, a charming but somewhat tattered 1879 cottage with a sunken butterfly-and-bird garden in the yard (N2037 Spring St., 651/528-9616, doubles from $100). The walls of the house are two feet thick and made entirely of stone, and except for the occasional whoosh of a Twin Cities-bound train on the tracks nearby, it's utterly silent. Day 2 STOCKHOLM, WIS. TO MINNEAPOLIS 60 MILESThe next morning, I'm tempted by Spring Street's complimentary breakfast, but I have bigger plans in mind, namely a visit to the Bogus Creek Café & Bakery, just down the street (N2049 Spring St, 715/442-5017, breakfast from $7). The restaurant serves breakfast all day on a sunny garden patio, and I'd heard good things about their Swedish pancakes with lingonberries and bacon. Ultimately, though, I give in to their signature dish, the "Bogus hash": grilled hash browns mixed with eggs, peppers, scallions, sausage, and cheese. Set beneath picturesque Maiden Rock bluff, tiny Stockholm (population: 97 or 82, depending on which sign you read) has better shopping than a lot of towns 10 times its size. (Spring Street, for instance, has eight shops and galleries alone.) But what really sets the retail here apart is that many of Stockholm's boutiques go beyond selling wares. They serve double duty as Scandinavian cultural centers. The town was founded by Swedish immigrants some 160 years ago, and the Scandinavian influence is still prevalent. Not far from the Palate Gourmet Kitchen Store, the Stockholm Pie Company sells a veritable smorgasbord of baked goods, from classic fruit-and-nut pies like apple pecan to savory options like spinach-and-mushroom quiche (N2030 Spring St., Stockholm, Wis., stockholmpiecompany.com, desserts from $2). Nearby, Ingebretsen's av Stockholm is chockablock with Scandinavian imports, such as Swedish wooden candleholders, hand-painted bright red with floral accents, and gray hand-knit mittens from the Arctic Circle (W12092 Hwy. 35, ingebretsens.com, hand-painted, wooden candleholders from $26). The family-owned, third-generation shop also offers Scandinavian-themed classes on crafts (a recent series highlighted Swedish folk painting, or dalmalning) and cooking. "A lot of people in Stockholm grew up with Swedish recipes in their family," says Carstens Smith, the class coordinator. "But you know, Grandma doesn't always write down each and every step, so we help them fill in the blanks." The tutorial on baking kransekake, an intricately constructed iced almond cake, is particularly popular with locals, Smith says. "It's not the kind of thing you can just pick up in any bakery," she points out. Or-for that matter-in any of the 520 stores at the Mall of America. Shops like Ingebretsen's are worth the drive indeed.   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: 12 Best Places You've Never Heard Of 13 Things You Didn't Know About Hawaii The Dirty Truth About Hotel Ratings World's Most Amazing Hotel Pools Top 10 Most Shocking Mummies