Piramal Haveli

By Diane Vadino
September 21, 2009

A graceful colonnaded façade, latticed balconies, and interior courtyards make this heritage property a textbook example of Rajasthani colonial architecture. Built in the 1920s by its namesake, a Bombay cotton and opium baron, Piramal Haveli's eight rooms are done up with period furniture, ceiling frescoes, and geometric-patterned rugs. The hotel staff hosts equally old-fashioned activities like musical chairs and treasure hunts, as well as dinners for eight or more on the nearby desert dunes in spring and summer.

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7 Great Coastal Drives

Easter Island's South Coast Round trip from Hanga Roa About 25 miles Peeling off from the main road that bisects Easter Island is an easy-to-overlook spur to the south. The island's south coastal road skirts the Pacific Ocean, taking you past the best of the moai, mysterious stone heads that stand up to 40 feet tall and still baffle anthropologists. There are more than a dozen notable archaeological sites along the route, but the most impressive is Ahu Tongariki: Ponder the perfect line of 15 massive heads standing like sentinels guarding the coast. Just off the road is Rano Raraku, a quarry where some of the unfinished moai appear to be resting, their expressionless faces staring at the sky, waiting to be set upright. Photos 1 of 3 Hawaii's Hana Highway Kahului to Hana 52 miles Maui's spectacular coastal route isn't for the squeamish—the narrow, zigzagging road has more than 600 curves, many of them turn-on-a-dime switchbacks, and most of the 54 bridges along the route are single lane. Your reward is the scenery: rain forests packed with breadfruit trees and colorful plumeria and torch ginger flowers, and waterfalls tumbling down steep hillsides. Pull over at the Wailua Overlook to catch views of the Pacific and a village church made entirely of coral. When you arrive in the unassuming town of Hana, swim at Hana Beach Park, snorkel at Wai'anapanapa State Park, or leap from nearby Wailua Falls, a 200-foot waterfall from which, it's rumored, local men used to jump to prove their manhood. Photos 1 of 3 Iceland's Ring Road Reykjavík to Vík 80 miles Iceland's Ring Road—the island-circling, 830-mile Highway 1—offers plenty of glorious photo ops of a landscape literally formed by fire and ice. For an abbreviated version of the drive, hit the wild southern coast: From the capital city of Reykjavík, head southeast on Highway 1 toward Dyrhólaey. There, jagged blades of basalt rise from the ocean, providing nesting space for puffins, razorbills, and other seabirds. The road turns away from the coast at Vík, but if you have a sturdy vehicle, it's worth continuing on another 80 miles to Skaftafell National Park for a glimpse of Europe's largest glacier, Vatnajökull. Photos 1 of 2 Northern Ireland's Causeway Coastal Route Carrickfergus to Portrush 68 miles Often considered the most scenic stretch of road in the British Isles, the Causeway Coastal Route (also called the Antrim Coast Road) meanders almost the entire length of Northern Ireland's coast. Along the way, you'll see rolling green hills dotted with sheep, cottages enclosed by short stone walls, and Norman castles in varying stages of decay. One of the best preserved is Carrickfergus Castle, a medieval structure that was used continually until 1928. Be sure to stop en route at Carrick-a-Rede, a vertigo-inducing 66-foot-long rope bridge that connects the mainland to the rocky Carrick Island. And don't miss the cluster of hexagonal stones that make up the Giant's Causeway—a perfectly orderly but naturally occurring rock formation that appeared on the album cover of Led Zeppelin's "House of the Holy." Photos 1 of 3 Norway's Atlantic Road Averøy to Vevang 5 miles The short-but-impressive Atlanterhavsveien route in Norway's western fjords opened in 1989—and is a marvel of creative engineering. Called Norway's "Construction of the Century," the route includes eight bridges that hopscotch from one island to the next, sometimes curving midway through a span in ways that make them seem to defy gravity. Many people visit in autumn, when storms that lash the coast add a touch of drama. If the weather is clear, drive the longest bridge, the 853-foot Storseisundet, and stop to take pictures—you might spot seals and, occasionally, minke whales close to shore. Another place to pull over is Kvernes Stave Church, a wooden house of worship dating from the 14th century. Post-and-beam Christian churches like Kvernes were once ubiquitous in this region; only 28 survive in Norway today. Photos 1 of 2 Spain's Costa del Garraf Barcelona to Sitges 25 miles Those heading south of Barcelona in a hurry take the main highway, which winds around—and sometimes tunnels through—the dry, craggy landscape. But the slower C-31 offers the better views. The narrow road clings to the rocky cliffsides, offering up a new spectacle around every curve. Along the way are seaside villages like Castelldefels, named for its medieval castle, and Garraf, famous for its 19th-century Güell Cellar, attributed to Antoni Gaudí and resembling a storybook version of a palace. These are all just a warm-up for Sitges, an elegant Mediterranean resort town with narrow, cobbled streets that wander past stone structures dating back to the Middle Ages. The 17th-century Church of Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla watches over the long strand of beaches. Photo 1 of 1 Sweden's Western Coast Route Gothenburg to Strömstad 105 miles More than 8,000 islands are sprinkled along Sweden's rugged western coast route. The drive takes you past orderly fishing villages where you can sample mackerel, herring, smoked eel, and the region's other delicacies. A few of the larger towns, like Skärhamn, on the island of Tjörn, are connected to the mainland by bridge. Skärhamn's rust-red cottages contrast with the contemporary Nordic Watercolor Museum, whose boxy shape seems to hover above the town's picturesque harbor. For access to other towns, such as Marstrand, ditch the car and take a three-minute ferry ride. The town's low-slung houses are clustered around Carlstens Fortress, a brooding, 17th-century castle. Photos 1 of 2 THE CLASSICS Don't think we forgot! These world-famous drives deserve a category all their own. Australia's Great Ocean Road Torquay to Warrnambool 151 miles About 60 miles from Melbourne, this drive along the Southern Ocean is most famous for the Twelve Apostles, huge pillars of limestone rising from the surf. Photos 1 of 2 California's Pacific Coast Highway San Francisco to Los Angeles 454 miles California's Highway 1 passes through some of the country's most beautiful (and most expensive) beachfront real estate. It's hard to pick a favorite part of the drive, but the dramatic scenery around Big Sur is unforgettable. Photo 1 of 1 Italy's Amalfi Coast Salerno to Positano 27 miles This route threads through towns clinging to seaside cliffs, old-fashioned fishing villages, and vineyards that climb steep hillsides. Photo 1 of 1

Travelers' Tales

Next Prize: Iceland The best response we receive between Oct. 1, 2009, and Nov. 1, 2009, wins a two-night trip to Iceland for two—with economy flights from an Icelandair gateway, hotel, transfers, and tours—courtesy of Icelandair, Icelandair Hotels, Flybus, Reykjavík Excursions, Ishestar Riding Tours, and Blue Lagoon. For more info: 800/223-5500, icelandair.us. How to enter: E-mail us at TrueStories@BudgetTravel.com or mail us at True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 7th Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. Full guidelines: BudgetTravel.com/truestories. Trip Winner October's winner is Marilyn Ackerman of Grand Junction, Colo. She won a three-night trip for two to Tulum, Mexico, courtesy of the Blue Tulum Resort & Spa. Purple is the new brown My mother wanted to have her hair done during our three-week stay on Caye Caulker, Belize. One of the locals styled hair out of her home, so my mother went to her and asked to have her hair cut and dyed. They decided that my mother might look good with a little bit of a tint in her medium-brown hair. Instead she ended up with bright-purple hair! She had a good laugh about it, and her purple hair was a great conversation starter for the rest of the trip. Eww. Just eww. Two friends and I went on a hike in Vietnam. When Neetu noticed a worm on her finger that she couldn't get off, our guide, Nam, pulled it off and told us it was a leech. Then Blakely screamed. She had leeches all over! We made it to our village, where there was an outdoor shower; we stripped to our underwear, and Nam searched us. Then we ran half naked to the house where we were staying. When the family saw us, their mouths dropped at the sight of three half-naked women with blood running down their legs. Karen Basu, New York, N.Y. This dog had its day While on St. John, U.S.V.I., my friends invited another friend to join us on a boat trip. She had a dog that we never had met, and she asked if she could bring it. We said that wouldn't be a good idea, but as we pulled the dinghy to shore to pick her up, a dog jumped in. We didn't say anything but thought it was rude that she had disregarded our wishes. We had a great day sailing, and the dog was well behaved. At the end of the day as we were reboarding the dinghy—the dog jumped right in again—my friend asked, "Whose dog is that?" We laughed and said, "We thought it was yours!" The dog then scurried off the dinghy and disappeared. Annie Caswell, Burlington, Vt. Might want to practice your French During a recent cruise, our ship docked at Villefranche, and my friend and I decided to take the train into Nice. After several attempts at using the ticket machine with our rusty high school French, we managed to buy tickets. More passengers from the ship arrived at the station and experienced the same frustration with the machine, so we helped them through the process. Once we were on the train, we learned that we had helped about 25 people purchase children's tickets. Oops! Even worse, because we had been helping the others, we were the last to board, and the only seats left faced the bathroom. During the beautiful ride along the coast, all we could see was the bath­room door. No good deed goes unpunished, I guess. Carole Stacy, Okemos, Mich. Va va voom! When I was a 30-year-old bachelor, I did a solo road trip in British Columbia in search of adventure, excitement, and romance. By the final night, which I spent at a bar in Vancouver, I had found plenty of the first two but very little of the last. Crowded around the next table was a group of Germans—two middle-aged couples and a tiny lady in her late 70s. I motioned for them to take my extra chair, but instead they sat grandma down across from me. She talked to me in German, and I smiled and nodded. When I was ready to go, I bowed my head graciously toward my table guest. Her companions stood up and each gave me an unexpected hug, until it was grandma's turn. She grabbed me by the shirt, pulled me down close, and gave me a long kiss...not on the cheek. Adventure, excitement—and romance! Craig Ives, Los Angeles, Calif. We'd cower too, you brute I was at Disney World with my boyfriend and his parents, and during Extra Magic Hours one evening we decided to go straight for Pirates of the Caribbean. I was determined to be the first in line, and there were a lot of people coming up behind me. As we made our way to the entrance, out of the corner of my eye I saw something pointy coming towards me. I reacted on instinct...little did I know that it was merely one of the cast members dressed as a pirate! I didn't mean to push him so hard that he fell over. After the ride, the poor pirate cowered when he saw me coming. Katy Van Every, Alexandria, Va. Now that's hospitality My husband and I took our sons to Europe to celebrate our 20th anniversary. Our first stop was Lamía, Greece. While we were still a block or so away from our hotel, we noticed a flurry of activity. The park in front of the hotel had been transformed into an arena, with huge speakers on either side of a stage, and there were television cameras and people everywhere. We thought they were going to have a concert, and all we wanted to do was sleep! We asked the hotel manager what all the commotion was about. He told us that elections were a week away and that the prime minister was coming to speak. Despite how exhausted we were, we couldn't pass up the party. Afterwards, my youngest son said, "Wow, Mom, you really know how to plan a vacation!" Mini Irwin, Durango, Colo. Guess who's coming to lunch We recently took a sailing cruise in the Andaman Sea off the coast of Thailand and visited many deserted islands. One day, we were having a beach barbecue when some six-foot-long monitor lizards crawled out of the bushes. They scattered our plates and cans in their search for food. A slap of a tail was strong enough to bruise my husband's leg. A friend got a kiss on her bare back from a long, black, forked tongue! Needless to say, we kept a lookout for critters on each island after that. Ann Corless, Green Valley, Ariz. We'll take a side order of health care with that I traveled to Kampala, Uganda, shortly after our most recent presidential election, and I was amazed at how much Ugandans adored our new president. I saw key chains, flags, and T-shirts with Barack Obama's image, and I was frequently asked to say hi to the president on my return home. By far the most amusing Obama image I found was on the side of a fast-food delivery van. Ania Kujawska, Madison Heights, Mich. Gives new meaning to the term "taken to the cleaners" Studying in a rural Tuscan town and living in an ancient monastery can be rough for many reasons, one of which is that you have to wash your clothes by hand. After weeks of sore wrists, two friends and I decided to lug our backpacks for an hour to a train and travel to Arezzo in search of a laundromat. We found the fabled American-style laundry after hours of bad directions and language-barrier mishaps, only to realize we didn't have soap and all the stores were closed for the afternoon break. After the stores opened, we spent $12 on what turned out to be fabric softener, not detergent, and $35 on multiple loads in tiny, overpriced washers and dryers. We ran through the city lugging not-so-clean clothes and jumped on the last train back. It took 10 minutes for us to realize we were on the wrong train. After being yelled at by the agent (causing my friend to cry), paying a fine (causing me to cry), and buying new train tickets, we got back home near midnight, starving, each with about $230 less in our pockets. We went back to washing things by hand. Leigh Henderson, Fort Worth, Tex.