A Night at the Opera

May 5, 2008
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Our longest-running subscriber goes backstage at New York City's Metropolitan Opera.

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The upgradee
Who better to upgrade for our 10th anniversary than our longest-running subscriber, Bill Herndon of El Paso, Tex.? We flew him to New York City, put him up at the luxurious Jumeirah Essex House, and got him a ticket to Ernani at the Metropolitan Opera, along with a backstage tour.

Using our powers for the good of the people
"I've traveled to Egypt, Germany, Italy, and China—almost everywhere—either for work or with my wife, Nancy, and our two sons. We picked up Budget Travel because our European trips were costing too much. And it certainly did the job. Nancy and I often come to New York City to see performances at the Metropolitan Opera, because I'm a huge fan. This time, she couldn't make it at the last minute but insisted I go anyway: I've wanted to see Verdi's Ernani for 35 years! Peter Clark met me at the Met—now, I don't know his title, but it's good enough that when I misplaced my ticket, he just called the box office and had them print me a new one. Mr. Clark and I visited the shops where they make wigs and costumes, and peeked in at a rehearsal. In the halls, burly men were moving sets and props around us. (I also told him a few stories—you see, I came to New York in 1948 as part of the Boys Town choir, when the Met was at its old location on Broadway.) Most of all, I enjoyed the opera. I was in the fourth row. The singers were great—and when you're that close, very loud. It was an exciting night!"

With help from...
The Metropolitan Opera (metopera.org); Jumeirah Essex House (jumeirahessexhouse.com); and BT reader Keith Caffery, of Yakima, Wash., who took the photos.

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Dig In! Liz Ozaist isn't a meat eater, but she loved the sauce at Calhoun's in Knoxville. Taking Cover The Tattered Cover proved a cozy respite from Denver's frigid January temperatures. "I kept finding books to buy so I could put off going back outside," says Beth Collins. Gumbo Jumbo Amy Chen had eaten gumbo in a fancy New Orleans spot the previous night, but the Gumbo Shop's version was "a lot better—and a lot cheaper!" she says. Route of the Matter A scenic drive from Portland, Ore., to Bend was one of Naomi Lindt's favorite reader tips. "The route took us across Mount Hood one way and through Sisters on the way back," she says. "The scenery was stunning." The Big Cheese Sean O'Neill liked Obikà, a mozzarella bar in Rome, so much that he ate there twice. Both times he ordered the mozzarella di bufala campana, served with bresaola (cured meat), tomatoes, and basil. "It was the best mozzarella I've ever had," says Sean. "Deliziosa!" Barging Right In The guided boat tour of the canals was the perfect introduction to Amsterdam. "We took the tour on our first full day there," says Suzanne McElfresh. "It was a great way to get a feel for the layout of the city before setting out on foot. My son loved it!" Thanks Sew Much Thanks to a reader's tip, Laura MacNeil went to the tailor shops as soon as she got to Hoi An so her custom clothes would be ready before she left. "I got two dresses and a winter coat," she says. "All three were done in a day and a half!"

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Dear BT Readers... I've heard there's great shopping in Vietnam, including custom-made dresses, leather jackets, and boots. Any boutique recommendations in Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi An, and Hanoi? Laura MacNeil, Associate Editor In Ho Chi Minh City, don't miss the Ben Thanh Market or the Mini Tax Market, in the center of the city near the Rex Hotel. You'll find unbelievable bargains on watches, backpacks, wallets, and clothing. I got a custom men's suit made from Super 150s wool for less than $200. If you want a unique hand-painted dress or the traditional Vietnamese tunic (ao dai), go to Si Hoang (36-38 Ly Tu Trong St.). It's expensive, but worth every penny. Hoi An is full of custom-clothing shops, but Thu Thuy is my favorite. I still wear the beautiful silk robe I had made there in 2002 (60 Le Loi, 011-84/510-861-699, thuthuysilk.com). Yaly is excellent! They made my husband's suit during a typhoon when the power went out (47 Nguyen Thai Hoc, 011-84/510-910-474). We found exquisite hand-embroidered silk at a shop called XQ. It has stores in several cities(xqhandembroidery.com). Ipa-Nima in Hanoi has a great selection of funky, fashionable handbags—most cost less than half what you'd pay in the States. We picked up several to give to friends as gifts (34 Han Thuyen St., 011-84/4-933-4000, ipa-nima.com). It's best to seek out tailors' shops on your first day; some take more than 24 hours to make certain items, especially on holidays. Bring some of your favorite clothes to the shops to use as examples, and give the tailors plenty of information about what you want in terms of fit, style, and material. To carry all of your loot home, go to the local market and buy one of the zip-top shoulder sacks made out of tarp material. You should be able to buy one for less than $5. Thanks to these readers for their Vietnam tips: Lanny and Mary Farmer, Clemmons, N.C.; T. Do, Potomac, Md.; Lee Daley, Sausalito, Calif.; Jane Woody, Greensboro, N.C.; Jim Arbuckle, Bellevue, Nebr.; Chris Shearer, Chicago, Ill.; Renée Everett, West Chester, Pa.; Jack V. Owens, Isle of Palms, S.C.; Susan Nguyen, Seattle, Wash. Dear BT Readers... I'll be in Denver for three days. Where should I go for my morning coffee? Low-key lunches? Nice dinners? I'd also love tips on which neighborhoods I should explore. Beth Collins, Associate Editor For pastries and coffee in a fun neighborhood, go to Generous Servings, a café in the West Highlands (3801 W. 32nd Ave., 303/455-9730, generousservings.com). Happy Cakes Bakeshop is right next door. Afterward, you can walk down 32nd Avenue and browse in the shops. Mona's Restaurant has the best orange-brioche French toast (2364 15th St., 303/455-4503, monasrestaurant.com, $8). For a little excitement, eat brunch at Bump & Grind. During the week, it's merely a coffee shop, but on weekends, the kitchen opens up, and the servers wear wigs and stuffed bras and shuffle about in high heels. And they certainly keep things lively: We ordered two Cokes, which were served with two lines of sweet white powder—that tasted remarkably like Sweet'N Low—and a book of Suzanne Somers's poetry to reflect upon (439 E. 17th Ave., 303/861-4841, brunch entrées from $8). Steuben's serves comfort food at its best (523 E. 17th Ave., 303/830-1001, steubens.com, entrées from $8). Denver has a thriving Ethiopian community, so check out any of the Ethiopian restaurants along East Colfax. The burgers at City Grille are some of the best in the nation, and they're served on buns from Bluepoint Bakery. My favorite is the buffalo burger. The French fries are a great accompaniment, cardiologists be damned (321 E. Colfax Ave., 303/861-0726, citygrille.com, buffalo burger $10). East Colfax Avenue is undergoing a renaissance and has become quite the hangout spot. For a coffee break, go to Hooked on Colfax (3215 E. Colfax Ave., 303/398-2665). On the same block are three popular bars with great food: The Atomic Cowboy (3237 E. Colfax Ave., 303/377-7900, atomiccowboy.net), Goosetown Tavern (3242 E. Colfax Ave., 303/399-9703, goosetowntavern.com), and Mezcal (3230 E. Colfax Ave., 303/322-5219, mezcal-restaurant.com), which has every type of tequila you'll ever want to try. Just to the east is the largest outpost of the Tattered Cover Book Store (2526 E. Colfax Ave., 303/322-7727). East of Colorado Boulevard, at Elm Street, is Geez, Louise!, a quirky coffee shop with a mannequin mascot who sports a different look every day. This is the second Louise; the original was kidnapped last summer (4924 E. Colfax Ave., 303/322-3833, geezlouisecoffee.com). Thanks to these readers for their Denver tips: Sheila Baldwin, Erie, Pa.; Shirley Mathistad, Denver, Colo.; Marilyn Cook, Parker, Colo.; Susan Fitzgerald, Denver, Colo.; Patrick Tucci, Golden, Colo.; Dave Dudar, College Park, Ga.; Tom Tafoya, Denver, Colo. Dear BT Readers... My husband and I will be taking our 5-year-old son to Amsterdam, so we're looking for kid-friendly activities, interesting places to eat, and a day-trip excursion by metro. (My son loves subways.) I'm also interested in checking out up-and-coming Dutch fashion designers and H&M-type shops that haven't yet made it to America. Suzanne McElfresh, Online Managing Editor Take a boat tour through the canals—you don't know how beautiful the city really is until you see it from the water. My 2-year-old found the tour fascinating. Artis, one of the Netherlands' oldest zoos, is also great (Plantage Kerklaan 38-40, 011-31/20-523-3400, artis.nl, $28). Kids love NEMO, a science museum in a building shaped like half a sunken ship. Many exhibits are in English (Oosterdok 2, 011-31/20-531-3233, e-nemo.nl, $18). Two other worthwhile ideas are TunFun, an indoor playground (located under the Mr. Visserplein traffic circle, 011-31/20-689-4300, tunfun.nl, kids $12, adults free), and De Krakeling, a children's theater where you don't have to understand Dutch to enjoy the performances (Nieuwe Passeerdersstraat 1, 011-31/20-625-3284, krakeling.nl, $14). No visit to Amsterdam would be complete without a sobering trip to the Anne Frank House. It could offer an opportunity to have a discussion with your child about the Holocaust and anti-Semitism (Prinsengracht 267, 011-31/20-556-7100, annefrank.org, $12). Right down the street from the Anne Frank House, The Pancake Bakery is a great kid-friendly place to eat. It offers all different kinds of pancakes, both sweet and savory (Prinsengracht 191, 011-31/20-625-1333, pancake.nl, from $8). Edam and Gouda, two towns famous for cheese, are both scenic train rides away. Our favorite city outside of Amsterdam was Kinderdijk, which is just east of Rotterdam. It has 19 windmills, several wooden-shoe shops, bike trails, very friendly people, and great food. You can tour a few of the windmills. Even just sitting at the bus stop and watching old folks pedal by in their wooden shoes can be entertaining. Children always seem to love Kinderdijk. The Hema, C&A, and V&D are all big department stores with great and affordable selections of clothes. Don't miss the markets: Albert Cuyp and Dappermarkt (both closed on Sunday). The Jordaan neighborhood has several boutiques and nice places to eat. You'll definitely want to shop along De Negen Straatjes (Nine Streets), a collection of streets known for its great specialty shops and boutiques (theninestreets.com). P.C. Hoofstraat is Amsterdam's upscale shopping street, and Utrechtsestraat also has some interesting shops. Be sure to check out the clothes at Cora Kemperman. They're unique, stylish, and comfortable, and they're made with luxurious fabrics that are often machine washable. The store frequently has great sales during the winter months, so you might be in luck (Leidsestraat 72, 011-31/20-625-1284,corakemperman.nl). Thanks to these readers for their Amsterdam tips: Kim Dillan Eich, St. Cloud, Fla.; Sheila Pizur, Amsterdam, Netherlands; Jennifer Katz, New York, N.Y.; Priscilla Emery, Longwood, Fla.; Michelle Willson, Ayer, Mass.; Jacki Harris, La Canada, Calif.; Kim Dillan Eich, St. Cloud, Fla.; Sheila Pizur, Amsterdam, Netherlands; Michelle Willson, Ayer, Mass. Dear BT Readers... For my long weekend in Knoxville, Tenn., I need advice on absolutely everything. Where should I eat? What should I do while I'm there? Are there museums or galleries I should see? And I'd love to find a small, charming hotel or B&B to stay in. Liz Ozaist, Senior Editor Be sure to spend some time in the Old City and Market Square, near downtown. There are some great little restaurants and shops to visit. The Tomato Head is a popular spot to grab some fresh and inventive pizza or sandwiches (12 Market Sq., 865/637-4067, thetomatohead.com, entrées from $8). The staff at Downtown Grill & Brewery is wonderful, and the food and beer are delicious. It has outdoor seating, so we were even able to bring our dog (424 S. Gay St., 865/633-8111, downtownbrewery.com, entrées from $8). For an excellent sandwich, head to Sam and Andy's (11110 Kingston Pike, 865/675-4242, sandwiches from $4.25). Everyone loves the barbecue at Calhoun's (10020 Kingston Pike, 865/673-3444, entrées from $8). I was in Knoxville last year for a conference, and I appreciated how compact it was. In my free time, I spent a nice couple of hours at the smallish Knoxville Museum of Art, just between the university campus and downtown. I was the only person in the gallery, and a University of Tennessee art student working there gave me a tour (1050 World's Fair Park, 865/525-6101, knoxart.org, $5). You can stay in a quaint little B&B close to downtown called Maplehurst Inn (800 W. Hill Ave., 865/523-7773, maplehurstinn.com, from $79). Thanks to these readers for their Knoxville tips: Emily Utt, Maryville, Tenn.; Kimberly Yavorski, Ambler, Pa.; Stephanie Fox, Woodstock, Ill.; Mark Doig, Corryton, Tenn.; Paul Prew, Eagan, Minn.; Clay Greene, Knoxville, Tenn. Dear BT Readers... My friends and I will be in New Orleans for New Year's. Can you suggest swamp or plantation tours? Super restaurants? Do we need to rent a car the entire time? Amy Chen, Assistant Editor To see the swamps, nothing beats Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours, about 20 minutes from downtown (6601 Leo Kerner Lafitte Pkwy., Marrero, 504/689-4186, jeanlafitteswamptour.com, $24). If you only have time for one plantation, go to Oak Alley Plantation in Vacherie (3645 Hwy. 18, 225/265-2151, oakalleyplantation.com, $15). San Francisco Plantation in Garyville is also unique (2646 Hwy. 44, 985/535-2341, sanfranciscoplantation.org, $15), and Nottoway Plantation in White Castle has the absolute best food in its restaurant. Order the Cajun Two-Step—shrimp creole and jambalaya—and the bread pudding (30970 Hwy. 405, 866/527-6884, nottoway.com, admission $15). Gray Line offers a tour of areas affected by Hurricane Katrina (800/535-7786, grayline.com, $35). For the best gumbo, go to the Gumbo Shop (630 St. Peter St., 504/525-1486, gumbo $8). Make sure to stop by the piano bar at Pat O'Brien's (718 St. Peter St., 504/525-4823, patobriens.com). Napoleon House makes delicious muffulettas (500 Chartres St., 504/524-9752, napoleonhouse.com, half muffuletta $6.75). No visit to New Orleans is complete without sitting down to coffee and beignets at Cafe Du Monde, near the riverfront (800 Decatur St., 504/525-4544, cafedumonde.com, three beignets $2). Parking in the French Quarter is tricky—and can get expensive—so it's best to stay at a hotel in the area and walk everywhere. Wait until you go to the plantations to rent a car. Thanks to these readers for their New Orleans tips: Randy Houghton, New Orleans, La.; Gwen Rohan, Huntsville, Ala.; Kimberly Eliason, Quincy, Calif.; Brianne Riker, Silver Spring, Md.; Janet Dales, Blaine, Wash.; Jeanette Parker, Lafayette, La.; Kathleen Karsko, Grand Junction, Colo. Dear BT Readers... I'm heading to Bend, Ore. (my first time visiting the Pacific Northwest), in late October. Does anyone have suggestions for things I shouldn't miss? Hikes, restaurants, little boutiques? Naomi Lindt, Senior Assistant Editor For info on hiking in Bend, go to bendparksandrec.org. I enjoy hiking down into the canyon at Smith Rock State Park, just north of Bend, and watching the rock climbers. If you drive from Portland to Bend, go through Mount Hood on the way there, and then on the way back, go through the town of Sisters to Salem and then north. Both are beautiful drives. While you're in the area, stop in Sisters to check out the old-west atmosphere, complete with old wooden storefronts. The Gallery Restaurant has homestyle country dishes and serves the best fish-and-chips (171 W. Cascade Ave., 541/549-2631, from $7). There are some nice antique stores a block north of the main street. If you have extra time, take a trip over to Crater Lake, about two hours away. It's the deepest lake in the U.S. The hike down to the lake is great! Hot Box Betty, a shop in downtown Bend, has the cutest shoes and clothes (903 NW Wall St., 541/383-0050). La Rosa is a fabulous Mexican restaurant that features homemade infused tequilas. The vanilla-bean margarita is yummy (1444 NW College Way, 541/318-7210, margaritas from $7, entrées from $11). To sample some of the spirits made by Bendistillery, go to Bendistillery Martini Bar & Sampling Room. My favorite is Cascade Mountain Gin, made with local juniper berries (850 NW Brooks St., 541/388-6868, bendistillery.com). Thanks to these readers for their Bend, Ore. tips: Diana Edwards, Salem, Ore.; Brittney McChristy, Portland, Ore.; Nancy Pitman, Salem, Ore.; Julia Bahner, Seattle, Wash.; Sally Ridenour, Salem, Ore.; Cara Filsinger, Salem, Ore. Dear BT Readers... Any tips on good tours and wine bars in Rome? Sean O'Neill, Senior Editor Online The Scavi Vatican tour is Rome's best-kept secret. You get to go under St. Peter's Basilica—it's the experience of a lifetime (e-mail scavi@fsp.va for tickets, $16). There are three books that make for wonderful self-guided walking tours of Rome: Not Built in a Day: Exploring the Architecture of Rome, by George H. Sullivan; Rome from the Ground Up, by James H. S. McGregor; and Rome in Detail: A Guide for the Expert Traveler, by Claudio Gatti and John Moretti. Make sure you see the Trevi Fountain both during the day and at night. It's beautiful and romantic. I suggest the often-overlooked Crypta Balbi, one of four Roman National Museum sites. Inside, you can see layers upon layers of civilization that have been unearthed in that one spot (via delle Botteghe Oscure 31, 011-39/06-3996-7700, $11, includes entrance to all four museum sites). Sant'Ivo della Sapienza, Borromini's magical church, near the Piazza Navona, is only open on Sundays and was the highlight of our trip (corso del Rinascimento 40, free). The Spanish Steps are a popular hangout for young locals and tourists. If you climb to the top and turn left, you'll end up at the border of Villa Borghese Park. Follow the edge of the park until you get to a viewing area overlooking Piazza del Popolo. You can see St. Peter's Basilica and all the major avenues and obelisks of the city. We found a fantastic mozzarella bar called Obikà in the Piazza Firenze, a few blocks north of the Pantheon (Piazza Firenze 28, 011-39/06-683-2630, obika.it, appetizers from $8). Cavour 313 is a great place for wine and snacks (via Cavour 313, 011-39/06-678-5496). Thanks to these readers for their Rome tips: Jennifer Tobkin, Los Angeles, Calif.; Dan Rouhier, McLean, Va.; Pennie Harris, Greenville, S.C.; Jennifer Katz, Brooklyn, N.Y.; Dan Rouhier, McLean, Va.; Kristin Kilburn, Honolulu, Hawaii; Tanya Farshy, Atlanta, Ga.

Trip Coach: April 29, 2008

Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi. I'm Carolyn Spencer Brown, editor in chief of Cruise Critic, an interactive Web site that focuses on cruise travel, from ships to destinations. There are already a healthy number of questions here -- thank you -- and I'm ready to tackle your answers. And continue to fire away -- if you have an opinion on any of the answers (or questions for that matter) feel free to chime in. We'll add your voice to the conversation! _______________________ Branchville, N.J.: Greetings! Having never been on a cruise ship, I'm wondering if, for quiet evenings alone in our cabin, my husband and I may bring aboard a few bottles of wine. If not, do most cruise ships have liquor stores where you may purchase a reasonably priced bottle? Thanks for your advice! Karen P. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Karen P. This is one of the most contentious issues in cruising because most lines have now levied restrictions on how much booze you can bring onboard (Carnival even tried for a time to restrict bottled water! -- that didn't last long). They say it's for safety reasons (so that underage passengers are drinking alcohol unmonitored) and they say it's because it makes luggage too heavy and thus too strenuous for baggage handlers and okay, I'll give them a little of the benefit of doubt. I think ultimately they want you to drink their liquor in their bars. However, if you're reasonable and moderate, you can pack wine or liquor (carefully) in your suitcases, at least a bottle or two, to enjoy in your cabin or on your balcony. However, they do have the right to confiscate and I can't promise they won't (haven't heard too many stories about folks who've had that happen). I've brought a bottle of wine onboard in my carry-on, on NCL a few years back, and that was taken away and returned at cruise's end, but that's the only time. I've also brought a bottle, again, nothing that would raise alarms, on from shops in ports and have not been hassled. Some lines do sell liquor onboard that you can take back to your cabin. You won't get duty free prices though. Curious: what are other readers' experiences on this issue? _______________________ Beaufort, S.C.: My two sisters and I are looking for a cruise of South America which will include a teeny bit of Antarctica. Does such an animal exist? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Beaufort. Great question. Weird answer to follow. Here's the thing. If you want a "bit" of Antarctica you can book a trip on any of the mainstream, big ship lines but know this: what they describe (and I quote this from Princess Cruises' Web site) as "Antarctic Wildlife: See great colonies of penguins, seals and abundant sea birds as you float nearby a dazzling icescape of remote Channel Islands" is the at sea equivalent of a "drive by". The ships are too big to actually get too close to land but you can still get a feel for the general environment. If this is what you want, look for a cruise that goes "round the horn" (either from Buenos Aires to Santiago or reverse). If you want a more in-depth cruise that actually does let you get off the ship and explore, try lines like Lindblad and Hurtigruten. They're lots more expensive but¿it's one of those once-in-a-lifetime experiences for some. _______________________ Wethersfield,Conn.: What is the latest news on the Barefoot Windjammer cruises? Where are the boats? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Windjammer's demise was truly sad -- and bad for people who want to cruise in a uniquely small ship, low key way. Officially the company is kaput. The company has not been sailing since last year -- but its never come out and said "we're out of business" either. But it is out of business; the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services, which regulates Sellers of Travel in Florida, tells us that Windjammer Barefoot Cruises is no longer licensed to sell travel there and that effectively puts the kibosh on rumored plans of a renaissance. The ships have been impounded. Crew members ultimately did not receive the money they were owed -- at least not yet -- and they've scattered¿. Oddly, and quite frankly very irresponsibly, the company's Web site is still up and looks like, for all intents and purposes, the line's still sailing. Don't buy anything! In the meantime, there are other options out there, none quite like Windjammer but still¿. You can try Maine Windjammers and, though a bit more upscale, Star Clippers has a trio of gorgeous ships that sail in Europe, Asia and French Polynesia. _______________________ Hilton Head Island, S.C.: I am a recent widow who traveled on cruises. I cannot afford single supplements and really don't want to take a cabin mate I don't know from a cruise line. What do I do in order to continue to travel? Carolyn Spencer Brown: In terms of controversial, right up there with alcohol restrictions is the solo surcharge issue. It's become increasingly more expensive for people who travel alone -- and who don't want to participate in cruise line roommate matching programs -- to find a reasonable deal on a voyage. That's because, in this era of cruise ship building, cabins are configured for two (at least two) and actually built off site, prefabricated, and slipped into place onboard. They all look alike. Used to be cruise lines built cabins onboard and there were singles and doubles and quads and they accommodated different needs. There are a few ships/lines out there that court solo travelers and offer cabins with no surcharge -- among the best are mostly British lines, like Swan Hellenic, Fred. Olsen, Saga, and Cunard's QE2. One thing I really like about Fred. Olsen, which just started marketing to N. Americans, is that its solo cabins are actually decorated with a single passenger in mind (for instance, one of the twin beds is taken out and extra seating, via comfy armchair or loveseat, is added to make it feel homier). Cunard recently announced that, following QE2's transfer out of its fleet this fall, it will offer travelers who book on its Queen Mary 2 (which has no dedicated single cabins) a special rate so that's worth investigating. Holland America's Prinsendam, another very special one-of-a-kind ship, also has some solo cabins. As well, sign up for tour operators and travel agencies who specialize in single travel and who offer specials from time to time. If you can get on their email lists, the offers will appear, hassle-free, in your box¿. _______________________ Lenexa, Kans.: My husband and I along with a group of friends (ages 50-65) are planning a cruise to Hawaii in 2009. What are the pros and cons of cruising Hawaii only or from mainland to Hawaii and flying back? Carolyn Spencer Brown: First can I just say that cruising around Hawaii is one of the most magnificent voyages available? Just fantastic. I've done it twice and wouldn't hesitate to go back. Basically you have two options. You can take a trip from the West Coast (say, from Seattle/Vancouver or Los Angeles/San Diego) that's a minimum ten days -- five days at sea to get there and five days around the islands. If you have the time and you like sea days, that's a great option (there's another choice and that's a roundtrip from the West Coast, where you spend five days coming, five days returning, and five days in ports). Norwegian Cruise Line may be down to just one ship in Hawaii these days but if you really just want to see the islands, its Pride of America -- spiffy, new, all the amenities -- is a fantastic option. It sails, year-round, seven night cruises out of Honolulu; there's not much at sea time. The ship is more like a floating hotel, each day another port (and in some cases there are overnights, such as with Maui). It's the best way to cruise Hawaii if being on the islands matters. _______________________ Columbia, Md.: Hi, Carolyn. My wife and I are in our mid-30s and we've been on about half a dozen cruises and we both love it. We've been on Royal Caribbean, Carnival and Princess and I think the whole cruising is the best way to vacation. My question is that I have taken my entire family (all 18 of us) on a cruise last august and will be going with my wife's family (12 this time) on a cruise in February 09. Our families had to split in to 5 or more different rooms on multiple decks, but I was wondering, how do you book those huge Presidential or Royal suites that have multiple rooms inside, jacuzzi on your private balcony and separate living room and I've seen one Travel channel show with a piano inside once. Those rooms are not bookable online, they are not listed on any websites so how can you book them? Do you have to be a VIP? Can anyone book those rooms? I'm sure they are thousands to tens of thousands but after paying for 12 people for balconies and junior suite rooms, I think the huge suite maybe worth it. Can you help me understand how they work? Thanks, J.B. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, J.B, great question. Anyone can book high-level suites, but your observation that reservations cannot be made online is 100 percent correct. Certain accommodations -- say, Presidential and Royal Suites -- aren't released into general inventory because there are minimum passenger requirements that need to be met, and the cruise lines have to keep a close eye on capacity. Think of it this way: Where hotel bookings are priced per room (and can accommodate any number of people, up to a maximum), cruise bookings are priced per person. For information about booking these types of suites, you can contact any cruise travel agency. You can also contact the cruise lines directly, most of which have special reservation desks set up to help people who are interested in booking "big" suites (generally more than five people). _______________________ Bakersfield, Calif.: Is November a good time for a Mediterranean cruise that includes the ports for Rome, Florence, Naples and Nice? Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Autumn in the Mediterranean is actually the very best time to go! While, sure, you might get rain and such, you might not -- and it's warm enough for short sleeves and cotton sweaters, at least in the daytime, with none of the absolutely sweltering heat of summer. The other huge benefit? You miss out on the crowds. In summer, Europe's port cities are popular with land travelers to begin with; add in 5 - 10,000 people a day coming off cruise ships -- and it's a throng. Third plus? November's a value-priced time to cruise. So: you'll get a better deal, have more quality time in port, and temperatures will be comfortable. Sounds good to me¿. Just bring an umbrella. _______________________ Phoenix Metro - Ariz.: What can you tell us cruisers--factually and statistically--about the "internal" policies and practices of the various major cruise lines serving North America, to discount cruise fares if there are unsold cabins six weeks or less before the cruise departure date? Such discounts, if significant percentages, could be of great value to clients who are able to travel "on short notice." As a solo cruiser, I am particularly interested in discounting policies of the cruise lines that would tend to reduce the "single supplement" by significant percentages, or even eliminate it, for "last minute" solo cruisers when there are unsold cabins only a few weeks before cruise departure. Responding by highlighting differences between specific cruise lines, as to these practices, would be helpful. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Phoenix. Last-minute cruises are defined roughly as those sailings that depart between 60 days and six months in the future. In terms of facts and stats, there's no magic number that the cruise lines adhere to (so, if a cruise is leaving in two weeks, there's no guarantee that it will automatically be discounted by 50 percent or $100, etc.). You indicated interest in cruises six weeks out or even sooner. You'll often find the best discounts are on off-season cruises (there's a reason why it isn't sold out, after all) -- Caribbean during hurricane season, for example. For the best variety, however, consider sailings about 60 days out. The two month mark is almost always the "last call" for travelers to cancel existing reservations without penalty. If there are more cabins leftover than a cruise line would like, they will often reduce the fare -- sometimes quite heavily -- so that they can sell out the ship. Some cruise lines will extend a discount on solo supplements on close-in sailings, or, if you are really lucky, eliminate the surcharge altogether -- but again, there's no hard and fast rule as it all depends on how well a particular ship is selling, the time of year, etc. Your best bet for finding an affordable cruise as a solo traveler is to shop around and, again, remain open to traveling during non-peak times. And one last thing to consider is upgrading to a luxury cruise. Upscale brands like Crystal and Regent Seven Seas Cruises are among the cruise lines that offer occasional price breaks to solo cruisers (surcharges of 25 percent of the fare or less). So you may be able to sail for less on a luxury ship than you would on a mass market ship with a heavy supplement! _______________________ Ashburn, Va.: Tell me, when truly is the best time to go on a cruise to avoid the kiddies but not get caught by a hurricane? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi. Hurricane season officially falls between June 1 - November 30 and in the past few years I've seen it start early once and end late (well into December!). I'd suggest January, post holiday, as a good time to avoid the, er, kids (and it's one of the best times of year, at least in the Caribbean and the Mexican Riviera, to snare a really great deal). _______________________ St. Petersburg, Fla.: Hi Carolyn, How has the declining economy and the state of the airlines affected the cruise line industry? Even in this climate, it seems like cruise fares are actually climbing non-stop! Carolyn Spencer Brown: The only thing that's really climbing, St. Pete, is fuel surcharges that cruise lines are levying on passengers (it's up to $10 per person per day in some cases). We're seeing fares at frankly pretty decent rates, otherwise, and hear from cruise travel agents that we can expect summer prices to continue to drop, especially in Alaska and Europe.... Stay tuned! _______________________ Huntsville, Ala.: Hi Carolyn. My family takes a cruise every year. We book online ourselves. How do you find out about repositioning cruises and what are the pros and cons for them outside of the air ramifications? Carolyn Spencer Brown: I love the idea of a repositioning cruise because you often get to go to ports that aren't on the same-old, same-old list. I did a cruise on Holland America's Zaandam last year, San Diego to Vancouver, that was wine themed and great fun. I also once did a seven night Atlantic crossing, no ports, between Dover and Boston; got a little bored on that one, LOL. You're right about air ramifications -- it can cost you to go one way or to fly out of different airports. By the way, one of the absolute cheapest ways to cruise is to take a repositioning crossing (most commonly via the Atlantic; Pacific crossings take a lot longer and so are pricier). If you like sea days there's no other better way to go. _______________________ Lawrenceville, Ga.: I want to take an Eastern Carribean Cruise on Holland America's newest ship, Eurodam. It doesn't sail until Feb. 28, 2009, but I am confused about when to "lock" in the best price. Is there really an advantage to booking early if I don't care where my cabin is, or should I wait for a deal?? Carolyn Spencer Brown: If you really care about your cabin location or type, book it sooner rather than later. Particularly when it's on a new ship, as Eurodam, which actually debuts in July, is.... _______________________ Longmont, Colo.: How can Single cruisers find good prices on cabins? Are there certain cruise lines who are lenient with the prices for just One in a cabin? Thank you so much. Clare Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, solo cruisers are out in force today and we've answered a couple -- and will answer as many more as necessary. So read through all.... To Clare's specific question about cruise lines, I didn't mention in my earlier answer that luxury lines are often quite lenient -- and have sales on various destinations. But remember: it being luxury, the cruise is going to be more expensive to begin with. _______________________ Greenwood, Ind.: What is the trick to get a room with a balcony cheaper? Kathleen Fox Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi Kathleen, one of the best ways to get a balcony for the price of, say, a standard inside -- actually, a great deal in general -- is to know your seasons and when they're soft. Cruises during a region's shoulder rather than peak season can often be found for a song, allowing consumers to snap up better accommodations for less dough. Cruise Alaska in May or September for example, rather than during the height of summer, or visit Europe in early spring or late fall. Hurricane season in the Caribbean (roughly June through November, with its height in September-October) also prompts fare fairs¿but keep in mind that in all of these cases, there's a reason why these cruises are cheaper (weather's a big one). If you are able to travel last minute, you might also snag a bargain basement balcony that way. Look for deals about 60 days out -- that's the deadline for passengers to cancel without penalty, and if a lot of cabins are released back into inventory, cruise lines often offer deep discounts. _______________________ Clarkson, Nebr.: We were considering a family cruise with our 20 year old daughter. Recently, a frightening TV expose about a 23 year old who just "disappeared" while the ship was at sea has made me reconsider. What are the safety issues of cruises? What is the frequency of this type of thing? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Clarkson. Thanks for bringing up the safety issue because this is really important. A cruise, like most other types of travel, is generally quite safe. But like anything else -- if you want to find trouble, you probably can. It's frightening to hear stories about people who "fall overboard" or who disappear and having covered these stories for the Web site for the past five years I will tell you that to fall overboard you really have to make an effort. And people who "disappear", tragically enough, usually do so on purpose. I would suggest you lay down some ground rules with your daughter, just as you would if you'd taken a family vacation to Orlando or Boston or London. What's her curfew? What's appropriate behavior? What's allowed, what's not allowed? I'd also recommend you buy walkie talkies (or just use your cell phones) to keep in touch with each other; ships are pretty big. Would anyone like to chime in with insights about cruising's safety problem perception? _______________________ New York, N.Y.: What are your thoughts about cruising in Asia? Will pricing issues stop people from cruising there? How about airfares in getting to Asian embarkation ports? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, NYC. I just went on my first Asia cruise and it was awesome. Asia's so huge and sprawling and with so many distinctively different cultures, with countries side by side, that it's a challenging place to visit for a first timer. More than say, countries of the Mediterranean, which are all slightly different but have enough similarities that it's easy to get along. My trip went from Bangkok to Beijing, about two weeks (I had to get off in Shanghai and go home because of a commitment) and it was just the right way to sample the various countries and to figure out where I want to go back for longer stays. Really loved Hong Kong and Shanghai, liked Singapore (boy it was steamy though), should have flown in a couple of days early to Bangkok instead of just one day. A couple of things to keep in mind. The flight's a bear though less onerous than it used to be. We flew Thai Airways, nonstop, from JFK. It was 17 hours but have to say the service was great, coach seats were fine, AVOD for non stop entertainment, and it wasn't bad at all. I'd definitely recommend you try to fly non-stop if you can; people on our cruise who'd had to connect had the worst stories. What's interesting about Asia now is that it's just starting to grow beyond "specialty" lines -- upscale, small ships that are pricey -- and big ship lines like Princess are offering sailings there. What that means is that with economies of scale, fares are really quite reasonable (though of course you have to factor in the air) and on my trip there were a lot of folks onboard who weren't necessarily wealthy¿. Keep this in mind: Asia cruise season generally runs from October - March and you could (especially into December) run into typhoons that could divert your ship. We had to cancel both calls to Vietnam ports, a huge disappointment, because of that. If there's a place you want to visit that's so important that missing it would ruin the entire trip, go by land. _______________________ Los Angeles, Calif.: A group of ten of my girlfriends and I are celebrating (most of us) turning 30 this year with a three night cruise from L.A. to Mexico. Are there any birthday or other group benefits that we could get? Also, is there a preferred cruise company for this type of trip and our age group? Thanks so much! Elisabeth Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Elizabeth, and congrats on the milestone. You are pretty much limited to the lines that offer three nighters from L.A. and that's Carnival. Which frankly is a perfect choice! Book your cruise through an agent and find out if you get any discount for ten bookings -- and also ask the agent to put in a request for birthday cakes. The lines have cut back on the latter in the past few years (people were wasting the freebie) but you never know.... _______________________ East Aurora, N.Y.: Please tell me how you would cruise to or from Alaska? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, East Aurora. Personally, I love Vancouver so I'd probably opt for a cruise that either departed or returned (or a round trip) there so I could spend a few extra days. There are really two main options for big ship cruising in Alaska. You can do a seven night roundtrip Inside Passage cruise (these typically are based in Seattle or Vancouver). Ports of call could include Skagway, Juneau, Ketchikan, a day in a fjord, and possibly Victoria. This is a good option if you're time crunched and if you're budget crunched (because flights are cheaper if you buy round trip). The other is a ten night trip between Anchorage/Seward and Seattle or Vancouver; there you get to see a few more ports, like mystical Sitka, and possibly offbeat places like Haines, Icy Strait or Prince Rupert. But you'll fly in and out of two different airports. Since I've done a big ship cruise to the Inside Passage and seen the "highlights" ports, I'd love to next try a smaller ship trip that's a bit more adventurous, like with Cruise West. _______________________ Red Bank, N.J.: When do you expect summer 2010 Baltic itineraries to be released? We're planning a family reunion and need lots of advance time. We intend to sail Celebrity Cruises. Thanks!&#33 Carolyn Spencer Brown: Typically, cruise lines release itineraries about a year ahead of time so we're seeing plans for summer 2009 come in just now. I'd start really paying attention in April of next year. Good luck! _______________________ Salisbury, N.C.: Everyone tells me to book my first cruise over the internet, but I'm overwhelmed with the choices of on-line booking sites. How does one sift through and find a reliable on-line booking site? I'm a seasoned travleler that always books my own air, train, accomodation, etc. for all my travels, but am thouroughly confused on how to go about picking a cruise site. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Salisbury, the fact that a cruise is a bit more complex of a vacation choice is one of the reasons why travel agents really are important to cruise travelers. Frankly, I'd find yourself a good travel agent (one that you can talk with) and let them help you winnow out your choices. A good agent will pre-qualify you: what are your lifestyle preferences, what's your budget, where do you want to go and when, what type of trip are you looking for. You can also do this research online at sites like ours that provide info for first time cruisers -- and in fact I highly suggest that you do your homework before you go to an agent so that you're prepared to answer the questions. Once you've become relatively experienced (at least, if) at what you want from a cruise trip you can book online with confidence -- but the first time out, I'd go for the personal touch. _______________________ Spokane, Wash.: When planning a big reunion cruise for a holiday such as New Years eve how far in advance can we get cruise dates and destinations, and how far in advance do you advise booking the cruise? Carolyn Spencer Brown: I'm going to answer this question in two parts because it mirrors other, similar queries, in we've gotten here. First, to Spokane: you can get dates in advance about a year (sometimes 13, 14 months) ahead of time. Second, to anyone planning to host a big reunion or celebrate a special event, or who's simply locked into a specific timeframe for a cruise vacation: plan ahead. Book as soon as you can. The earlier you book the more choices you will have. And yes, there might -- or might not -- be some kind of great deal closer in to sailing but you're taking a huge risk if you really can't be flexible. This advice also applies if a specific type of cabin -- a huge suite, family accommodations, interconnecting staterooms, back-of-the-ship balconies -- really matters. These are the first to go and you'll rarely find a good sale on them. So just book them. As well, if you're working with a good travel agency, you can let them know to alert you if the price goes down (you'd be credited with the difference) but I'll also suggest that you, from time to time, check on prices yourself and don't count on a harried and overworked travel agent to remember! _______________________ Vancouver, Canada: We are going on a 7 day Alaska Cruise in June from Vancouver to Seward. 4 adults who are age 50-ish, no kids. My questions are about shore excursions: Do you have any advice about whether to go on excursions in every single port, or is it better to leave some time for exploring on your own? And is it smarter to book excursions in advance and through the cruise line, or wait til you get into port and do it then? And do you have any opinions on "can't miss" shore excursions in Alaska? Thanks! Carolyn Spencer Brown: I'm going to take a look at the question posed by Vancouver and another by Birmingham cause they're on similar topics. Ports in Alaska tend to be nestled in the wilderness, and shore excursions tend to be of the outdoor variety and very active. With the scenery and wildlife the main attraction, tours by train (in Skagway), floatplane (in Ketchikan), helicopter and even dogsled (in Juneau) are offered. For an even more exhilarating view, try a zip-line tour in Icy Strait Point or Bear Creek (near Ketchikan). Cruise lines have been offering even more offbeat excursions in recent seasons, including crab-fishing and even -- as strange as it sounds -- snorkeling. If you're looking for an active excursion, it's hard to miss with any of these options. Booking activities in advance is always a good idea. But don't feel like you're limited to shore excursion offerings; Alaska's a pretty easy place to find independent operators, too. Just be very cautious when dealing with companies that offer flight-seeing expeditions. _______________________ Newark, N.J.: I want to take a last minute trip to Greek Isles in September/October--specific islands to visit are Mykonos, Santorini, and Rhodes. what ship offers this itinerary, and how late can a cruise of this type be booked? Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Sounds like a great plan -- and you'll have plenty of variety. These are what I call the "greatest hits" Greek ports -- just about every big ship sailing itineraries in the region visits at least some if not all. That goes for Carnival, Celebrity, Royal Caribbean, P&O, Costa, MSC, Princess, Holland America, etc. September and, frankly, October's even better, are still busy times for ships in the Eastern Mediterranean. It's almost more important that you narrow down your ship preference first -- then match it (or the cruise line) up with the itinerary. We're hearing that prices in Europe are slated to drop -- so keep a close eye on deals and such. I wouldn't wait much longer than mid-July to book (well, two months out) and you should be prepared for not getting first choices in cabins and dining times, if that's applicable. Shore excursions might also be sold out. But it sounds like the last minute savings would be worth it to you. The major crux is going to be getting air at the last minute and you may have to pay through the nose on that¿. _______________________ Pensacola, Fla.: We are traveling on Royal Caribbean in June, and one of our ports is Cocoa Caye, is the scuba diving excursion worth the money? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Haven't done this shore excursion -- anybody else out there been on Royal Caribbean's Coco Cay? Since it's a private island, you are limited to Royal Caribbean's own vendors so can't book independently.... _______________________ Langhorne, Pa.: Why are the cruise lines putting grass and trees on the cruise ships? The main reason my husband loves a cruise is because his asthma and allergies are not bothered by trees, grass and flowers being on the water away from land. I am sure my husband isn't the only person bothered by the foliage. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Well, let's just put it this way: more ships WON'T have grass than will so there's still plenty of choice for you out there! I think that cruise lines are trying to find creative and innovative ways to compete with on-land resorts (for which grass and foliage is usually part of the experience) and also to create unique niches amongst their cruise line brethren. It's fun, I think, but again, if it's not your cup of tea there's such variety in ships that you'll find something that is. _______________________ Bradenton, Fla.: We are considering a cruise for the first time but there seems to be so much information out there. What is the best way to sort out the info and compare cruise lines and ships for amenities versus cost? In other words, how do we get the best bang for our money as someone new to cruising? Carolyn Spencer Brown: The best approach is to simply take things one step at a time. Some of basic questions you'll need to address: Where are you interested in cruising? Would you prefer a small and intimate vessel or a mega-ship with all the bells and whistles? Who will be traveling with you? Will you need a family-friendly ship, or a more mature luxury liner? Once you've identified your priorities, it will be much easier to find what you're looking for -- and to assure that your booking costs will be money well spent. Every ship is different and each cruise line has its own distinctive identity. For instance, Disney is (naturally) excellent for families while luxury lines such as Crystal and Seabourn cater more to affluent couples. In general, finding a cruise line that matches your needs is the most important step (remember, you'll be spending more time on the ship than you will in port). _______________________ Brooklyn, NY: I would like to plan a cruise for sometime this year with my husband, 14-month-old daughter, my parents(60's) and my brother(30). We would like to go to the Bahamas or the Carribbean, leaving from a local port such as Brooklyn or NJ. I am interested in freestyle dining: dine anytime, anywhere. Do we have to worry about hurricane season? Would it be more economical to book one big suite for all of us or separate rooms? Which criuseline(s) would you recommend for our group? Carolyn Spencer Brown: If it's freestyle cruising you want, check out the line that originated the concept. Norwegian Cruise Line sails cruises to the Caribbean roundtrip from New York virtually year-round, primarily on Norwegian Spirit and Norwegian Gem. Norwegian Spirit is also scheduled to sail 6-day cruises to the Bahamas from May through August in 2008. Hurricane season, June 1 to November 30, should always be a consideration when booking a Caribbean cruise. Although the chances of your cruise being affected by a hurricane are marginal, even during the high season, the possibility of missed ports or other inconveniences due to unexpected storms must be taken into account. As far as the question of booking a suite rather than individual cabins for your group, that will likely require some research on your part. Most cruise lines offer suites that sleep up to six, eight people, but usually require that you pay a premium to get them. It's usually best to call the cruise line directly for detailed pricing on those suites before making a determination on the economics. _______________________ New York City, N.Y.: We'll (3 active single women) be on RCL southern carribean cruise on May 11, 2008. This will be our 1st cruise. Would like to know what to expect from a cruise vacation. We are thinking of doing a zipline and discover scuba excursions. Which island do you recommend for those activities? We also would like to include culture and food in our excursions, which island is best for these excursions? And of course, shopping for designer bags, which island is best? Additionally, I read a forum about rampant crime in St Martin/St. Maarten just recently about broad daylight attacks on tourists. Aside from using our common senses, what information can you share with us to be safe in the carribean? Thanks so much. Carolyn Spencer Brown: What can you expect on your first cruise? You'll be spending most of your days exploring onshore, and your evenings roller blading, ice skating and rink climbing. Royal Caribbean boasts these more active onboard features, and the pace is a touch more "up tempo" than other lines. There are also plenty of dining and watering hole choices (I'm partial to Johnny Rockets' burgers). If you want to go the active route onshore, you'll find no shortage of excursions, from snorkeling, to swimming with stingrays to 4x4-ing in Barbados. SCUBA classes will be available everywhere. For great dives St. John National Park is a top choice (you'll have to take a 20-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas, but it's worth it). That's a pretty heavy port schedule for a Caribbean cruise -- only one sea day -- so it might be a good idea to balance the activity you're looking for with a beach day, in say, Antigua (which has a phenomenal number of stunning beaches). St. Thomas is arguably the most touristy of your stops, and with it comes a shopping mall-ish vibe and an endless array of duty free shopping options (in reply to your purse concerns). St. Martin, the French side of the dual St. Maarten/St. Martin conglomerate, features a plethora of trendy boutiques offering a more chic shopping experience. As for your concern about crime, the economies of these islands rely on their well-built, well-maintained tourist infrastructures. Honestly, crime doesn't pay for them (or their image). That said, common sense is always the best guide. Remember you're a guest in these countries, so take some precautions. Stay together, check the U.S. State department Web site, don't flaunt your cash (no fanny packs), don't stray too far off the main area, and do your research. You'll be fine. _______________________ Bethesda, Md.: What cruise ship would you recommend for a midprice first time cruise to the caribbean (not sure--east or west) at the end of June/early July? We have people from 30-55 going on this trip and our we're interested in food. Thanks in advance! Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hey Bethesda, Give your age range and interest in food, I would recommend cruising on one of Norwegian Cruise Line's newer ships. Both Norwegian Pearl and Norwegian Jewel offer reasonably priced 5- to 8-night summer Caribbean cruises out of Miami that would fit the bill. Onboard there's a French bistro, a steakhouse, a casual Italian kitchen ("Mama's"), a Tex-Mex spot and an Asian fusion trio that include a hibachi-style venue and a sushi bar. One thing to remember: You'll have to pay a surcharge to eat in the majority of the specialty dining options ($10 - $25 per head, alcohol extra), so factor that in when you're calculating trip costs. Eating in the main dining room is, of course, gratis (so is room service.) _______________________ Littleton, CO: We are sailing on the RCCL Brillance of the Sea with this itinerary: 25-Nov Barcelona, Spain. 26-Nov Villefranche (Nice), France. 27-Nov Livorno (Florence/Pisa), Italy. 28-Nov Civitavecchia (Rome), Italy. 30-Nov Mykonos, Greece. 01-Dec Kusadasi (Ephesus), Turkey. 02-Dec Santorini, Greece. 03-Dec Piraeus (Athens), Greece. 05-Dec Naples, Capri, Italy. 07-Dec Barcelona, Spain. We will be a party of 6. We would be interested in a tour that would point out areas of Biblical significance . Can we safely book a tour from someone on the dock for Athens, Rome, Ephesus and Pompeii? Or are there tour companies you can recommend for us to arrange a tour to see the archeological sites that would be more economical than going through RCCL? Thank you, Roberta Carolyn Spencer Brown: Good question. It's no secret that lines charge more, and sometimes substantially more, for their own versions of shore excursions/tours. We should say, that when you book through the line, you do get added convenience (you can put the charge on your onboard bill, you'll be escorted off the ship) and a bit more piece of mind (if a cruise-line sponsored excursion is running late, the ship might wait for you, and you'll better taken care of). But carefully planning and booking on your own can save a not insignificant amount of money. And often, if you do the research, booking on your own will provide a far more intimate -- ship excursions might have 40 people and only one guide -- and rewarding experience. That said, you will be able to pick up guides in port, but I definitely wouldn't recommend it. With a limited time in each city, the gamble isn't worth it. Pre-planning is key, and you must the research. The good news, you still have time before your fall cruise. Research online, visit specialty tour operators Web sites, ask questions of them, read destination guides. Another great place to go for help is a destination message board. For example, on our destination boards, you can ask folks about past experiences with tour operators. _______________________ Delton, Mich.: I'm planning a cruise with a friend and my 16 year old daughter first week of April 2009! What cruise line would be better for a teenager? What warm destination would be interesting for her? Carolyn Spencer Brown: For me, Royal Caribbean or Carnival are the easy choices. Royal Caribbean's newer vessels -- Freedom of the Seas, Liberty of the Seas -- have the most active onboard options by far (surf simulator, ice rink, rock wall, mini-golf). The ships also feature a teen nightclub, a coffee-house style hang out (with a bank of Internet-connected computers), and DJ-ing classes (through an agreement through Scratch DJ academy). Carnival boasts regular disco evenings, special teens-only shore excursions, and PlayStation 2 and Microsoft Xbox consoles. Both lines put a special emphasis on teenage travelers. Each have gone so far as to split up their teenage kid's programming (from lumping 13 - 17's together into 12 - 14's and 15 - 17's), so your 16-year-old won't be stuck with a whiny little 13-year-old. If you're looking for a warm weather getaway, the bigger, newer ships from these lines are sailing primarily in the Eastern and Western Caribbean, so that's your basic option One note to remember, however: If you're going to be cruising during the school year -- unless it's a common break period -- you'll find far fewer teens onboard than you would in the summer. _______________________ Toronto, Canada: Hi Carolyn. I am a 1st time cruiser, going to Mediterrenean this October. Ports of call include France, Italy etc. Just wondering if I should book the excursion from the cruiseline (more expensive) or it wouldn't harm to book excursion from other vendors. Carolyn Spencer Brown: It really depends on the excursion, Toronto.... If it's an attraction that's logistically complicated for whatever reason, you may be better off on a ship's tour. If it's something simple -- go it on your own. Just depends.... _______________________ Fairbury, Nebr.: We have a Princess cruise booked for Aug. 25 departure with air included from Omaha to Vancouver. Are the cruise lines reliable in booking flights that guarantee you arrive in time for the departure? I'm very concerned with how screwed up the airlines are these days that we may miss our cruise. Any advice? Carolyn Spencer Brown: The cruise lines charge you a premium to book through them and what you're paying for is peace of mind if things do go wrong. Which frankly is always a possibility. There's a misnomer that if you book cruise line air, the ship will wait for you if you're late. Unless you're on a 300 person charter filled with passengers, it probably won't. It will pay your expenses to get you to the next port of call. I frankly prefer to book my own air, make sure I get in a day early (at least -- for trips to Asia, I'd give yourself a couple of days), and buy travel insurance. After that you just have to go with the flow. _______________________ Norrristown, Pa.: Which cruise lines are best equipped to handle handicapped passengers? Carolyn Spencer Brown: First off, most vessels built in about the last five years will have staterooms that have been purpose-built to accommodate cruisers with disabilities -- and most lines adhere closely to ADA requirements, with some even going several steps beyond. Here are two solid choices. Holland America's Rotterdam is a good choice for disabled cruisers traveling with non-challenged passengers: four of the ship's 23 wheelchair accessible staterooms have connecting doors to adjoining non-handicapped staterooms. Amsterdam offers 18 outside and five inside cabins with wheelchair access. The line is also credited with installing the first wheelchair-accessible tender transfer system on board their ships. Princess' Grand-class ships offer the most accessible cabins in various categories ranging in size from 233 to 312 square feet. Princess Cruises claims the highest number of wheelchair accessible staterooms in the industry, and offers special wheelchair-transportation gangway mechanisms on most of their ships and accessibility for major destinations in Alaska through lift equipped coaches, vans and ADA approved hotel rooms. Royal Caribbean has installed pool lifts on most of its ships, so passengers with disabilities can enjoy the swimming pools. We're also told that Royal Caribbean even has wheelchair-accessible tenders -- but when we asked a spokesman to identify which ships were so equipped he couldn't come up with an answer. _______________________ Marietta, Ga.: My husband and I are taking our 16 year old daughter, and her 16 year old girlfriend on a cruise. It starts June 1 on Royal Caribbean Adventure of the Seas, with travel in the Southern Caribbean. My question is: what is the best way to stay in touch with them? A friend of ours had walkie talkies, and they were a problem because of the channels already being in use. Someone suggested using our cell phones. When I wondered whether we would have to pay long distance charges every time, they said no, if we were on the same plan. But that got me wondering: would cell phones even get a signal at sea? We are on Sprint. Thank you! Joan Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi Joan. I'll answer your last question first -- you can get cell phone service from some providers on certain ships. Sprint does have a partnership with Royal Caribbean but you will have to pay a preset roaming rate (check with Sprint for specifics on your plan). That said, I think walkie talkies would be a more affordable option, and I do see families with them often while traveling. A ship's steel construction does present a challenge in terms of reception, but good equipment with a long range should work reasonably well. Pick something with different frequency options in case other cruisers have the same idea. For advice on specific brands that cruisers have had luck with, you may consider posting your question on message boards, such as the ones at Cruise Critic. And if you are worried about taking up too much space in your luggage, I saw wrist watch walkie talkies on Amazon recently -- though I do not know how well they would work on a cruise ship! Over and out. _______________________ Gallatin, Tenn.: Is it better to go with a cruise line or with a travel agency? Carolyn Spencer Brown: It really doesn't matter all that much -- though to be honest cruise lines really would rather you go through an agency. As well, they'll offer soft perks along with fares though prices are pretty much the same everywhere.... _______________________ San Antonio, Tex.: Hi, Carolyn! Host Mach from Cruise Critic here! Everyone in Texas is wondering which line will be the first to bring a ship to the new Bayport cruise terminal. There's lots of conjecture on the boards about this. I'm betting on NCL. What are your thoughts? Also, what to you think of new RCCL Genesis class ships? Too big or the wave of the future? Thanks a bunch!&#33 Host Mach Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Host Mach! Thanks for stopping by. I'm with you on Houston and NCL.... _______________________ Boston, Mass.: I am thinking about booking a cruise in March 2009 and would like to know if you think it would be better to book now, or wait for a sale or last minute deal? Carolyn Spencer Brown: March can be tricky with spring vacations and such. Without knowing which line and where -- it's hard to advise, alas. _______________________ Ocean View, Del.: When is the best time to book a cruise to Alaska? Is it better to book a 7 day cruise and make your own land reservations or book the whole thing through the cruise lines? Thank you, DD Carolyn Spencer Brown: The best time depends on what you think is best. Want the best chance for good weather? Go in July, August. Want the best possible price? Try the shoulder season months of May and September. Want to avoid crowds and hordes of kids? Ditto the shoulder season advice. I think Alaska's one of the easiest cruise regions in the world to book your own tours but I'd definitely suggest doing so in advance and really doing your homework. If the tour is challenging, logistically, it's often a good idea to book the tour through the cruise line (as the ship will wait if your group is late returning). Anything related to flightseeing -- definitely through the cruise line and even that's no guarantee. _______________________ Richmond, Va.: We have never been on a cruise and looking on the internet...the info is so vast...we don't know what is the best deal and the best ship. We want to go before all of our kids graduate and leave home. We have one in college and 2 in high school. We want to go somewhere neat and unforgettable and not so commercial. Can you help? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Richmond. You have good questions, but you need to hone in on what you're looking for. Where do you want to go? What's your budget? Timeframe? At that point, start researching on sites like ours and pick up tips, hints, deals, reviews of ships, reviews of ports, etc. And then go to a travel agent and say "I think we've honed in on this -- how can you help us"? _______________________ Rancho Cucamonga, Calif.: My wife and I are both in our early thirties and are taking a Eastern Carribean cruise on Carnival. What advice can you give us on saving $ for excursions. Carolyn Spencer Brown: I'd recommend you do your own thing. It's so easy in the Eastern Caribbean to hop into a safari cab, or on a ferry, to go to beaches and such. You can bring your own snorkeling gear (buy it at Kmart). The ship provides beach towels for use while on the cruise. And if there's an excursion that really intrigues that the ship is offering, do some google searching to find out if there's another operator in the same place offering similar experiences -- for less. Good luck! _______________________ Captiol Hill, D.C.: Hi Carolyn! Thanks for doing this chat! My fiance and I would love to see SE Asia via a cruise for our honeymoon later this year. Do you have any recommendations for a couple in their 30s? Good food is a plus! We sailed on Oceania before and loved it. PS-Does anyone ever give discounts for honeymooners? Carolyn Spencer Brown: No, nobody gives honeymooner discounts, LOL, Capitol Hill, but it's a good idea! Southeast Asia is just magnificent, it's a great cruise. You might check out something romantic like Star Clippers -- it operates a sailing ship that does Asia in the winter. I'd definitely go with Oceania there...in a heartbeat. If it's your honeymoon and money isn't necessarily everything, I'd opt for something offbeat and smaller than the big ship experience. _______________________ Orlando, Fla.: In your opinion, what are the chances of being upgraded to a better cabin when you book a 'guaranteed' rate? I always see a "this cruise is sold out" at the guest services counter, so do they actually have extra cabins? Carolyn Spencer Brown: This is such a challenging question -- we've done a story on the topic and lines don't like to be revealing about this. What happens when you book a guarantee is that once the three month "full payment required" period passes, the lines have an idea of who put down deposits -- but then didn't actually come through for the trip. So then there's always some extra availability. Getting upgrades should be regarded as a treat but I frankly wouldn't suggest you book a guarantee if you really, really want to have it. If that's the case, just buy the category of cabin you want. _______________________ Harrisburg, Pa.: Mississippi riverboat cruises seem different than the rest of the cruise industry in terms of prices, options, etc. What advice do you have for getting the best deal on a cruise on the Mississippi? Carolyn Spencer Brown: A river cruise is absolutely a different animal than a mainstream sailing. For starters, the vessels are smaller and generally much more casual, and the itineraries focus on smaller towns and villages. Because it is aspecial, niche experience, it isn't as easy to find a deal as it is for mega-ships that sail in well trafficked cruise regions. Our best advice is to join the mailing lists for the major river lines that operate on the Mississippi -- that way, any promotions that may arise will be delivered directly to you. Here are two to consider: Majestic America Line operates sternwheelers on several different routes: north, south, Cajun, etc. At the moment, MAL's fleet includes American Queen and the Delta Queen. Delta Queen's safety exemption is set to expire in November, after which there will still be two boats on the Mississippi: Mississippi Queen and American Queen. The other option is New Orleans-based RiverBarge. Its barge-like vessel, River Explorer, is very long (600 ft.) and made of two two-deck sections; it is pushed along the river just like a barge would be. It specializes in Cajun itineraries but does go north in the dead of summer. We appreciate that teachers and retired teachers cruise on River Explorer at half price when traveling with a full fare passenger. _______________________ Manasses, Va.: Hello, I would like to take a cruise with my husband and our 8 year old son. What cruise line do you recommend for a family, other then Disney (it is way toooo expensive)? Our son is very mature for his age. Thanks for the help. Mrs Roth Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, I'd try Royal Caribbean -- particularly its newer ships -- which really appeal to families with active kids. They have good kids programs and fantastic facilities -- ice skating rink, rock climbing wall, putt putt golf, basketball, and even surf parks on some ships! And because the ships attract families, in some cases from all over the world, your son will have a chance to meet an amazing variety of kids.... _______________________ Syracuse, N.Y.: Hello. Do cruise ships offer "open houses," to allow prospective sailers to view the cabins? My wife, our 8-yr-old daughter, and I are interested in a sea cruise. One item of concern: Just how small are the showers, the bathrooms, and the cabins? If we're going to be on the ship for a week, the novelty of cramped quarters would wear off quickly. This and any other info you could offer for us would be welcome. Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Very rarely, Syracuse, and I've only ever seen it done in the U.K., where travel agencies offer trips to ships to their good customers. Barring a personal visit, most cruise line Web sites offer so much visual detail that you can really imagine yourself on board.... _______________________ Yellowknife, NT, Canada: My partner and I are planning a 6 months sabbatical and intend to tour the Mediterranean nations from January to June 2013. We thought it might be wonderful to finish off our travels with a transatlantic cruise from Europe to North America. I am having trouble finding westbound transatlantic cruises that take place in June. Do you know of a cruiseline that may have a cruise, a repostitioning cruise would be great, in the month of June? Aingeal Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Yellowknife. Your problem is just that you're too early -- Queen Mary 2, Cunard's ocean liner, does a regular season of crossings but won't be releasing itineraries until about a year before. So check then. _______________________ Scottsdale, Ariz.: Dear Coach, we are interested in taking our 20 lb terrier with us on a transatlantic cruise. What are our options/restrictions? Carolyn Spencer Brown: You really only have one option, and that's Cunard Line. There are kennel services aboard the line's Queen Elizabeth 2 (QE2), which is retiring this November, and Queen Mary 2 (QM2). On Queen Mary 2, your terrier will have to spend his/her/its time in one of the 12 kennels (can't join you in bed in your cabin). You can visit several times per day, and there's a designated area for "walking." There's also a dedicated Kennel Master who takes care of responsibilities such as feeding, walking and cleaning. Every country has different pet quarantine laws, so depending on which direction you're heading -- Southampton to New York or the opposite -- your buddy will have to remain under observation when you debark. Contact Cunard directly for kennel rates. _______________________ Carolyn Spencer Brown: Many thanks for the fantastic questions -- wow, I'm bushed -- and sorry if we didn't get to all of yours. Check out our site, though, we have tons of info, ranging from editorial stories on various topics such as ship reviews, tips and first time hints, and destination-oriented profiles, and also a fantastic community of cruise travelers who are happy to debate issues and answer questions. I felt badly that I didn't to one poster's question on cruising with infants -- but we do have a story on the topic on our site (go to the site and search "infants"). Thanks to our great editorial team at Cruisecritic.com for helping out with answers -- and hope to see you all at sea. Carolyn

Navajo Nation—the Locals' Way

DAY 1 My friend Shirley and I are in a store in Tuba City, Ariz., stocking up for our road trip when I realize that I'm rushing around. Frantically searching for peanut butter, I look like I have somewhere important to be, while everyone else is moving at a casual pace. I smile to myself—adjusting to the local rhythms might not be so easy. Navajo Nation is a self-governing homeland for the Navajo people that occupies 27,000 square miles across three states: Arizona, Utah, and New Mexico. The lives of the Navajo are difficult; many of the people live in poverty, and the unemployment rate is about 50 percent. I moved here when my husband took a job at a hospital in Fort Defiance, Ariz., near the New Mexico border. Shirley has lived here her whole life, but there are many things even she doesn't know about her land. So we're both pleasantly surprised by theExplore Navajo Interactive Museum, which teaches visitors all about Navajo culture. We watch a movie on the Emergence Story, which explains how the Diné (the term the Navajo use to refer to themselves) believe the universe was created. At the Clan Wheel, Shirley enters the names of the clans she was "born into" (her mother's people) and "born for" (her father's people). She spins the wheel, and it gives her the names of all the Navajo clans she's related to. She has a lot of relatives! The Navajo believe it's important to know who your relatives are—in times of trouble, you'll know who to ask for help. Before checking in to the Quality Inn Navajo Nation, we go shopping—but this time for souvenirs, not supplies. The Tuba City Trading Postis one of the few remaining trading posts set up by whites in the late 1860s, when the Navajo returned to their ancestral lands following their forced relocation to New Mexico years before, a tragedy known as the Long Walk. At the time, the posts were the only places where the Diné could trade with whites. Now run by the Navajo, the post sells crafts to tourists. I buy a bumper sticker that depicts Geronimo and a group of Apache warriors and reads: "Homeland Security—Fighting terrorism since 1492." Lodging Quality Inn Navajo Nation10 N. Main St., Tuba City, 928/283-4545, qualityinntubacity.com, from $93 Activities Explore Navajo Interactive Museum Moenave Rd. and Main St., Tuba City, 928/640-0684, explorenavajo.com, $9 Shopping Tuba City Trading PostMoenave Rd. and Main St., Tuba City, 928/283-5441 DAY 2 Driving west through the empty red-rock desert, Shirley pops in a tape of her father singing songs in Navajo. I've barely started to learn a few of the words when we decide to stop at an artisan's roadside stand on Highway 89A near Marble Canyon. There are stands like this all over Navajo Nation, where locals sell handicrafts to support themselves. Shirley is looking for jewelry, and sure enough, the craftswoman, Vera Yazzie, is selling juniper-seed necklaces and bracelets. According to the Navajo, the seeds offer protection from all kinds of evil. We buy six of the necklaces ($5 to $15 each) and wear them for the rest of the trip to make sure that nothing bad happens to us. The Navajo Bridge is just up the road. When the bridge was constructed in 1929, it was the world's largest suspension bridge and the only place within 750 miles where one could cross the Colorado River. A new bridge has since been built for cars, but the original bridge is still used by pedestrians and bungee jumpers (though I later learn that bungee jumping is prohibited there). As we drive intoGlen Canyon National Recreation Area, we see huge boulders strewn about, as if giants had tossed them at each other in a battle. The road winds around cliffs down to Paria Beach, where the green-blue waters of the Colorado are rushing by. This is where Grand Canyon rafting trips begin, and it's the only spot where you can drive to the banks of the river. Shirley and I rest on a rock in the sun and wonder why people work so hard—hiking or riding a mule—to reach the river from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. On the beach, we meet a Navajo family who had just caught three trout in the river. The fish remind us how hungry we are. As soon as we reachLees Ferry Lodge, where we plan to spend the night, we order a big lunch—grilled trout for me and a burger for Shirley. Located on the edge ofVermilion Cliffs National Monument, the lodge couldn't be in a more beautiful setting. Cliff faces and narrow canyons have been carved out of the rose-colored rock over millions of years, exposing layer upon layer of sandstone, limestone, and shale. I feel like I can see for miles. And the silence! When I stop for a second, I hear nothing but the flapping of a raven's wings. After a long walk, we return to the lodge. The restaurant looks like the kind of place outdoorsmen would enjoy—duck decoys and wooden fish carvings hang on the pine walls, and the backs of the booths are shaped like fish. Behind the bar, more than 100 types of beer are on display. Shirley orders ribs that hang over the edges of her plate and a Singletrack Copper Ale, while I opt for beer-battered cod and an Oak Creek Amber Ale. We round out the evening later with some stargazing on the patio. This is such a dark, remote area that the stars are among the most vivid I've ever seen. Lodging Lees Ferry LodgeMilepost 541.5, Hwy. 89A, Marble Canyon, 928/355-2231, leesferrylodge.com, from $60 Activities Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Hwy. 89A, Marble Canyon, 928/608-6404, nps.gov/glca, $15 per car Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Hwy. 89A, Marble Canyon, 435/688-3246, blm.gov/az/vermilion/vermilion.htm DAY 3 We're up early for bacon, fried potatoes, and pancakes at the lodge, and then we're on the road, heading north for a tour ofAntelope Canyon. In the morning light, the layers of stone in the winding walls of the gorges glow in beautiful shades of pink and orange. We admire the high stone arches and twisting passageways in the rock. Bathed in this extraordinary light, the canyon is as spiritual as any cathedral. The Shonto area southeast of Antelope Canyon is famous for Navajo pottery, but we didn't expect to find so many artists represented at theShonto Trading Post. A bit out of the way in a canyon, the post is still a place where artists can trade their wares for food and other goods. Shirley and I ooh and aah at the exquisite pots, baskets, and woven jugs before Shirley buys a $120 Navajo wedding basket. By the time we arrive, theAnasazi Inn Café, just outside Kayenta, is packed with the local lunch crowd. Shirley has a delicious mutton stew, and I eat the beef soup—made that morning—and we share an order of Navajo fry bread, a puffy dough that is fried in oil. I eat so much of the bread on the trip, I probably put on about 10 pounds. Reenergized by our lunch, we drive to Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, near the Utah border. We've arranged to meet a Navajo guide, Richard Frank, for a tour of Monument Valley organized by his company, Simpson's Trailhandler Tours. Visitors can take a self-guided drive around the valley—best known as the setting for many John Wayne movies and Marlboro commercials—but Richard shows us the restricted area that outsiders can only visit with a Navajo guide. He points to a sacred alcove where he sometimes chants and plays his flute, and he tells us stories about his childhood. After several hours, Richard takes us to meet his brother, Harold Simpson, at his family's hogan, a traditional Navajo house with eight sides that's built out of logs and packed with mud on the outside. The brothers rent out theirNavajo Traditional Hoganto visitors for the night. Richard and Harold make a fire for us and cook Navajo tacos, a delicious take on the Mexican dish that substitutes fry bread for the tortillas. As the moon rises, Harold starts chanting and drumming, and another man, Byron, surprises us by coming out of the hogan dressed in powwow regalia. He invites me to dance with him by the fire, and even though I don't know the steps, I almost feel Native American. Shirley is giggling so much, she forgets to take my picture! Richard helps us get set up in the hogan, stoking the woodstove while we spread mats and sleeping bags on the sand floor. Lying on my back in the firelight, I look up at the logs framing the inside of the structure and think about building one. I'm envious of Shirley—she has her own hogan, which her family uses for special occasions. Lodging Navajo Traditional Hogan,Monument Valley, 435/727-3362, trailhandlertours.com, $155 per person Food Anasazi Inn CaféHwy. 160, 10 miles west of Kayenta, 928/697-3793, anasaziinn.com, mutton stew $6 Activities Antelope Canyon Tours 22 S. Lake Powell Blvd., Page, 928/645-9102, antelopecanyon.com, $32 Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park Rte. 42, four miles east of Hwy. 163, 435/727-5874, navajonationparks.org/htm/monumentvalley.htm, $5 Simpson's Trailhandler ToursMonument Valley, 435/727-3362, trailhandlertours.com, $86 Shopping Shonto Trading PostOff Hwy. 98, Shonto, 928/672-2320 DAY 4 We awake to fresh coffee and doughnuts outside the hogan, and Richard drives us out of the valley. On the way, we pass The View Hotel, the park's luxury hotel with windows overlooking the Mittens. Nothing against the hogan's sand floor, but Shirley and I agree it would be nice to try a luxury experience the next time we visit. We want to make one last shopping trip in Kayenta at the Navajo Arts and Crafts Enterprise, which we have heard is a great place to buy jewelry made of real silver, turquoise, and coral. When we enter, the clerk greets us and says that all the handmade items in the store are 40 percent off. The prices are already low enough—if we tried to buy this kind of jewelry in Tucson or Santa Fe, N.M., we'd pay twice as much. I finally decide on a pair of silver-and-turquoise bear-paw earrings for $18. On our drive home, Shirley and I discuss the dissonance we've both been noticing over the past few days between the unparalleled natural beauty of Navajo Nation and the extreme poverty of its people. I've come away with a deep respect for the way the Diné have maintained their culture, language, and identity despite the hardships they've endured over the past 150 years—and continue to face today. Lodging The View HotelOff Hwy. 163, Monument Valley, monumentvalleyview.com Shopping Navajo Arts and Crafts EnterpriseJunction of Hwy. 160 and Rte. 163, Kayenta, 928/871-4090, gonavajo.com Finding the way If you fly into Phoenix, the closest major city to Navajo Nation, the drive to Tuba City takes four hours. All the main roads in the Nation are well-marked and paved. Other things to note: Arizona does not observe Daylight Savings Time, but Navajo Nation does. And cell phone reception is spotty throughout the Nation. If you missed the chance to contribute to this issue... you could be next! Another lucky reader is getting the chance to write a Road Trip, this time for our December/January issue. Just fill out the form here. First, a few parameters: The trip can be anywhere in the U.S., but you have to be able to complete it in four days. Most importantly, we'll be drawn to an interesting story—either because it's about a part of the country that people don't know much about or because you have a particular take on it. The contest runs through June 30 (and you'll have to be able to complete travel by the end of August). Good luck!