Alaskan Duo Defrosts

"I Just Had to Have It!" "I don't usually bring home trinkets from my travels, but I fell in love with this carved stone elephant at a market in Chennai," says Laura. "If you look closely, you can see that there's another smaller elephant on the inside." Rock on "Everything surprised and thrilled me," Laura says. "This temple in Mamallapuram, now in ruins, was built atop a huge boulder." Body beauty At a crafts center just outside Chennai, Laura had a peacock design painted with henna on her hand. The pattern stayed on for a full two weeks. Standing by the bay "I came across a statue of Gandhi on the Bay of Bengal, in Pondicherry," Laura says. "The town was so neatly laid out and not at all crowded. It actually looked like France." A better welcome This woman is demonstrating rangoli, Indian sandpainting using fine powder. The designs adorn the doorsteps of houses and temples. Fresh start South India is full of shrines to Ganesha, the Hindu deity with the head of an elephant. He's known as the Lord of Beginnings. Wedding belles Nuptial celebrations in India are famously big. Laura had the chance to experience one thanks to her friend Edel and Edel's sister, Princy. "Princy knows the groom's brother," Laura explains. "And he told her to invite anyone. There were hundreds of people." Laura ordered her custom silk salwar kameez from a department store just a few days before the wedding. "We picked it up on the way there!" she says. Pay to play "It cost me fifty cents to be able to bring my camera into Kapaleeswarar Temple," Laura says. "I couldn't stop snapping pictures. The color and the detail work are absolutely stunning."

Interested in getting coached? E-mail us your questions—seriously, the more the better—to Letters@BudgetTravel.com. DEAR TRIP COACH... After years of saving my miles, I've finally booked a trip to visit a friend in Chennai [formerly Madras], South India. Although I'll stay with my friend, I'll be traveling alone most of the time. And, of course, the terrorist attacks in Mumbai are on my mind. Any advice? Laura McFarland, Rocky Mount, N.C. FIRE AWAY! What should I know about staying safe in India? November's events notwithstanding, India is generally very safe. Many Western women travel alone and encounter few problems. Occasionally you hear stories of an opportunist attempting a grope on a crowded bus, but that's rare. Follow the same precautions you would in any tourist destination, but be at ease and open to people. Indians tend to be extroverts and very inquisitive, so travelers of both sexes should expect lots of friendly conversation. How should I dress to avoid bringing unwanted attention to myself? Leave the short, tight getups at home and you'll be fine. You'll see local women in everything from embroidered saris to T-shirts and knee-length skirts or shorts. Chennai is right on the coast. What do women wear at the beach? Indian women splash around fully dressed in whatever they happen to be wearing. However, it's completely acceptable for foreign women to wear swimsuits, even bikinis, especially at beaches that are popular with tourists. Chennai's main stretch of sand, Marina Beach, is pretty, but it gets crowded. For miles of uninterrupted white sand, take a two-hour bus ride down the coast to the town of Mamallapuram (buses leave throughout the day from Chennai's Koyambedu bus stop and Guindy railway station, round trip from 50¢). While you're there, check out the famous Shore Temple, built in the 7th and 8th centuries right on the beach ($5). The ocean currents in south India are dangerously strong, so it's illegal to swim. Instead, people go to the beach to sunbathe and wade. One of my biggest concerns is what to do about money in India. Should I take traveler's checks, cash, or credit cards—or should I use an ATM? ATMs are now commonplace in all but India's most rural locations, so just take a stash of cash to get yourself started, and use your ATM card for the rest of the trip. Credit cards aren't accepted in most places; unless you plan to buy some high-end items or stay at a plush hotel, chances are you won't have much occasion to rack up a bill. I plan to do some shopping and my guidebooks say to haggle, but I've never done that. How do I go about it? First and foremost, act confident—even if you're not. If you look green, shopkeepers will hit you with exorbitant prices. Let the vendor quote you a number, and then come back with a counteroffer between a quarter and a half of that. If you're nearing an agreement but the seller is asking a bit more than you want to pay, state your final offer and start walking away. More often than not, that'll clinch the deal. I've been to several countries with extremely scary bathrooms. What should I expect to find in India? While not up to our sparkling standards, most bathrooms you'll come across will be sufficiently maintained and have the Western-style toilets, toilet paper, and sinks you're used to. In some lower-end hotels and restaurants, you may encounter one of the infamous Asian thrones (no seat, just a hole and two platforms for your feet), but these are blessedly on the way out. What is there to see in Chennai? There are three major sites that should be at the top of your list. Kapaleeswarar Temple, in Chennai's Mylapore neighborhood, is a stunning complex of intricately carved gateways, vast courtyards, and shrines (Kutchery Rd., mylaikapaleeswarar.com, free). There are four official poojas, or worship times, in the main temple each day, and priests at the smaller shrines lead services on request. You don't have to be Hindu to take part; poojas are open to everyone. Nearby, you have to behold the towering, bright-white Santhome Cathedral Basilica, a Gothic structure built in the 19th century over the tomb of St. Thomas—walk around to the back of the courtyard and go through the underground passage to see the crypt (Santhome High Rd., santhomebasilica.com, free). The Vivekananda Museum, behind Marina Beach, gives a gripping account of the life of the Hindu sage Swami Vivekananda, a 19th-century spiritual leader known for introducing Hindu philosophy and yoga to the West (Kamarajar Salai, S. Beach Rd., free). People keep telling me I'll get sick during the trip. Is this because of bad hygiene or exposure to new foods? Is there any way to avoid it? Stomach upsets abroad are most often due to bacteria in the ecosystem that are different from what we encounter at home. Contaminated food is less often to blame. Some doctors believe that pro-biotic dietary supplements, such as yogurt, can help ward off turista, so ask your internist for advice. That said, don't be afraid to try new foods while you're in India. People often make the mistake of assuming it's safer to eat at ultraclean-looking restaurants than to buy food from a street vendor. The truth is, while the restaurant might seem spotless, you can't see the state of the kitchen. But if you pass a guy making fresh samosas in a clean boiling vat on the sidewalk, you can confidently join the line at his stand. Just-cooked hot meals are your safest bets. I've only had one Indian meal in my life, but I'm excited to experiment. What specialties would you recommend in Chennai and the surrounding area? South India is famous for vegetarian buffets known as "meals," which are usually served in no-frills restaurants (just look for the MEALS READY sign in the window). Grab a seat, and a waiter will dole out rice, roti (bread), pappadams (huge wafer crisps), dhal (stew made with lentils), various curries, pickles, chutney, curd (something like cottage cheese), and salad. Meals are often served on a banana leaf; you mix the various dishes together and eat everything with your hands, using the roti as a utensil. The entire feast generally costs about $1. You'll pay about half that for the perfect fast food, masala dosa, a large crispy pancake that comes with a vegetable stuffing and sides of sambar (stewed tomatoes and lentils) and coconut chutney. Chennai-based chain Hotel Saravana Bhavan is a local favorite for its meals and dosa (011-91/44-2371-2577, saravanabhavan.com, meals from 50¢). Go to Kalyan Bhavan Biryani for the best biryani, a rice stew served with chicken, lamb, or vegetables (424 Pantheon Rd., biryani from 50¢). Fish, such as pomfret and kingfish, are also a south Indian specialty. Dakshin, in the ITC Hotel Park Sheraton & Towers, makes some of the best coconut fish curry around (TTK Rd., 011-91/44-2499-4101, entrées from $5.50). I'm thinking of taking a day trip or two to the state of Tamil Nadu. What towns do you recommend? Eighty-five miles from Chennai is Pondicherry, a former French colony with a Gallic influence in its architecture and cooking. In Thanjavur, about 190 miles southwest of Chennai, don't miss the Brihadishwara Temple, a standout example of Chola-period architecture, with dancing figures carved into its façade and a tower that's more than 200 feet tall. To the west of Chennai, the town of Kanchipuram has at least five major Hindu temples; it's also known for its bright silk saris and scarves woven with silver and gold threads. Finally, check out the village of Kanadukathan, in Chettinad, a region celebrated for its spicy fare made with whole red chilies, star anise, tamarind, cinnamon, and cloves. In the early 1900s, the area was settled by wealthy traders, many of whom built enormous mansions that are still standing. One of these, Chettinadu Mansion, has been converted into a hotel, so you can get an up-close look at how the glamorous life was once lived in these parts (TKR St., 011-91/45-6527-3080, from $85).

What's your best travel tip? Send us your tips, and if we publish one, you'll get a one-year subscription (or a renewal) to Budget Travel. You can e-mail them to us at Tips@BudgetTravel.com. Best Tips Ever The cleverest tips we've ever run are in The Smart Traveler's Passport, a handy book available at Amazon.com and select bookstores. Send us a tip: If yours is one that we illustrate, we'll send you a free book (and a year's subscription to the magazine). 1. Calm your canine My husband and I like to bring our three dogs on trips, but sometimes they bark at sounds from outside the hotel room. As a solution, we uploaded a recording of ocean waves to our iPod. At the hotel, we hook up the iPod to our mini speakers and play the waves, on repeat. The soothing sounds mask noises, so the pups don't yap. Jennifer Beach, Alexandria, Va. 2. Right on track Taking trains in a country where you don't know the language can be tricky, but when my wife and I were in Italy this year, I stumbled upon a way to make it easier. Find the train's schedule (every station posts these) and snap a digital photo of it. You'll have it with you on the ride to check the stops and know where to get off. Ed Lewis, Manassas, Va. 3. Dodge road fines If you rent a car in London, be sure to ask for a map outlining the city's Congestion Charging zones. Enter these areas—even accidentally—and you'll receive a $10 fine; the longer it takes you to pay, the more you'll be charged. My family and I happened into one of the zones, and our car was captured on camera. We found out when we got home that we owed $240. Joan Hortin, Chattanooga, Tenn. 4. Shoot your passport We all know that when traveling abroad, you should keep copies of your passport in a safe place. I always carry my cell phone with me, so I use it to take pictures of my passport's important pages as backup. When I need to fill out forms, I get my passport number by looking at the photos. John C. Giel, Leesburg, Fla. 5. Go in the know Driving in an unfamiliar area is never easy, which is why I always enter my hotel and other destinations in my GPS before my trip. That way, I can review the recent search history to access directions instead of having to program everything while I'm on the road. Jodi Green, Jacksonville, Fla. 6. Sponge trumps terry Hotels don't always provide washcloths. I used to bring one from home and keep it in a Ziploc bag as I traveled from place to place, but it never dried completely and would smell mildewy after a few days. Now I carry a kitchen sponge instead and have found that it stays fresher longer. Marilyn Silvey, Reston, Va. 7. Use your antenna Finding your rental car in a large parking lot can seem impossible, so my husband and I bring along an antenna topper for our rental. We can always spot the car right away. Beverly Moyer, Sinking Spring, Pa. 8. Shake and wake To sleep soundly when I travel, I wear earplugs, but they make most alarm clocks ineffective. My sister, who is deaf, gave me a great gift: a vibrating-alarm wristwatch that she ordered from vibewatches.com. You can set it to send alerts with a vibration, a beep, or both. I use the watch to wake up and as a reminder to take my medications. Carolyn Falk, Somerville, Mass. 9. Charitable change When you're stuck with extra foreign currency at the end of a trip—not enough to buy much of anything but too much to toss—there's a way to unload it with a good conscience. Many airlines take part in fund-raising programs for good causes and will accept donations in any currency on flights to the U.S. You can lighten your load and help out someone in need. Eugenia Lazaris, Upland, Calif. 10. Almost like washing Those little bars of soap in hotel rooms are good for more than baths. Put a bar or two in your laundry bag, and the clothes won't smell up your suitcase. Brenda Lyons, Christiansburg, Va. 11. Double vision Anytime I buy new eyeglasses, I store the old ones in my carry-on luggage. While I was on a European cruise, I sat on my good pair and couldn't get them repaired. It was a relief to have a backup for the rest of the trip. Nancy R. Wingfield, Roanoke, Va. 12. Plan B banking Like a lot of people, I depend heavily on credit cards when I travel, which means that a lost or stolen card could put me in a bind. For insurance, I deposit some of my vacation funds into a free checking account that comes with a debit card. I keep that card separate from my wallet. If I lose my wallet and can't access my main account, I still have a ready source of funds. James Gruber, Oviedo, Fla. 13. Family baggage When our son and daughter were younger, we bought wheeled nylon duffel bags from L.L.Bean—a different color for everyone in the family. The colors make it easy to do a last-minute check to see that everyone's bag is loaded into the back of the car. The duffels are reasonably priced, come in a variety of sizes, and are really tough. In fact, they still look new some 10 years later. Angie Matkins, Monroe, La. 14. Save Saturday for Brugge If you're on vacation in Brussels and want to take a train to nearby Brugge or Ghent, wait until the weekend. On Saturdays and Sundays, the tickets are half price. April Brown, North Wales, Pa. 15. Port-free parking Cruise terminals typically offer long-term parking for passengers, but the rates can be expensive. My husband and I have found an alternative: Many hotels near ports let cruise guests leave their cars there for free while they're at sea. The only requirement is that you stay at the hotel at least one night before you set sail. Sharon Jones, Waverly, Minn. 16. Lighter fluid not required A friend told me to bring a bottle of activated-charcoal capsules on my trip abroad. When my stomach started going south, I took a few capsules and felt much better within hours. You can buy them at GNC and other vitamin stores. Stephanie Denman, Walnut Creek, Calif. 17. She's got scents Most of my favorite perfume bottles are over the TSA size limit for carry-on liquids, so I can't take them on the plane with me. Before I go on a vacation, I douse a cotton ball with my favorite fragrance and put it in a Ziploc bag. Anytime I want to smell nice, I just dab my wrists. Karen Checki, New Berlin, Wis. 18. Staterooms get roomy My husband and I love going on cruises, but we don't love the cramped cabins. We've discovered that if we use rolling duffel bags instead of traditional suitcases we can collapse and store them under the beds after we unpack. The bags no longer hog our valuable space. Carole Sondike, Deerfield Beach, Fla. 19. Big-box wheels Check out costco.com when you want to book a car rental. It's generally cheaper than going through the major rental companies, and Alamo and National waive the additional-driver fee for Costco members. Junji Takeshita, Honolulu, Hawaii 20. BYO water The last time we went to Disney World, we had two 24-count cases of bottled water delivered to the hotel's front desk before we arrived. Instead of shelling out $2 or $3 per bottle in the parks, we paid a total of $12 for both cases. You can order them from chain stores such as Staples. Patricia Spillane, Warwick, R.I.

Each month, I plan to share snapshots from my own travels with you. But for the next couple of issues, I hope you'll be OK with this glossier version of me. I just had my first baby, Mimi, on November 19. And as much as I'm dying to be out there, drinking a cocktail from a conch shell on Turks and Caicos, snagging one of those chic Philippe Starck-designed rooms in Paris, and catching a rockabilly show at the Continental Club in Austin, for the time being, my excursions are mostly limited to my favorite neighborhood café, Gorilla Coffee, and, when weather permits, Brooklyn's Prospect Park. That'll change soon, I know. And when it does, I want to explore the world with my daughter, as my parents did with me. My earliest memories include marveling at a sunrise in Utah's Monument Valley and cheering a parade of costumed locals in a village in Normandy. The remarkable thing about travel is its ability to turn us into wide-eyed children again. As much as we all want to be in the know, the most rewarding times I've ever had as a traveler are when I've allowed myself to be naive, to embrace feeling comfortably confused and dislocated. As so many destinations start to feel the same (does one really have to go to Tokyo to try yet another Gordon Ramsay restaurant?), my new rule of thumb is that a plane ride needs to be worth it—to take me someplace different enough to justify all the hassle. Especially today, as travel gets trickier and more expensive—and as our time and resources become increasingly limited—it's all the more important to seek out experiences that remind us just how fulfilling it is to be curious again.