Cape Town: Victoria & Alfred Waterfront

Beaches run the length of the Peninsula on both sides. Atlantic beaches are tonier with colder water, False Bay beaches more family-oriented and warmer, and many in between are still wild and often deserted. SEE The Boulders M4 south of Simon's Town, 011-27/21-786-2329, tmnp.co.za About 4,000, once nearly extinct, African penguins live in this reserve of massive boulders and sheltered beaches. Elevated walkways allow you to see the birds, up close. You can also swim (with penguins) in the warmish calm waters. If the penguins don't tempt you to visit, the panoramic views of False Bay might. Admission $2.50. Drive time: 60 min. EAT Biggsy's Coach & Wine Bar Cork Bay, 011-27/21-788-7760 A restaurant train that travels two and a half hours from the city to Simon's Town, hugging the False Bay coast along the way. A fun outing any time of day, it's best in the morning, when it serves full English breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, sautéed tomato, and hearty toast. Reservations a must. Round-trip Cape Town--Simon's Town $4. Breakfast Tues.--Fri. $6, champagne breakfast Sat.--Sun. $8. Lunch and late afternoon trains also available. EAT Olympia Café & Deli 134 Main Rd., Kalk Bay, 011-27/21-788-6396 Offbeat, artsy café with unbeatable omelets and sandwiches on potato focaccia that burst with fresh fillings like goat cheese and arugula. Its cinnamon twists are also excellent. Drive time: 30 min. SPLURGE Azure Restaurant The Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, Victoria Rd., Camps Bay, 011-27/21-437-9000, 12apostleshotel.com Cape Town's best-positioned hotel is sandwiched between the Twelve Apostles Mountain Range and the pounding surf of the Atlantic just outside Camps Bay. Its innovative chef uses a rosemary-like indigenous herb called fynbos to create truly South African dishes such as fynbos springbok loin. Drive time: 15 min. DRINK Café Caprice 37 Victoria Rd., Camps Bay, 011-27/21-438-8315 Cape Town's young and bronzed compare tan lines and exchange text messages over icy mojitos on an overflowing patio facing Camps Bay Promenade on the Atlantic coastline. It also serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Drive time: 10 min. SHOP Main Road, Kalk Bay Funky shops, galleries, and cafés line the main artery of Kalk Bay, a bohemian beach town. You can pick up anything from odd culinary utensils to vintage Cape mementos at the antique and secondhand shops. Try Clementina Ceramics (20 Main Rd., 011-27/21-788-8718, clementina.co.za, closed Mon.) for handmade treasures. Drive time: 30 min., or take the train from Cape Town Central Station. PLAY Clifton and Camps Bay Beaches Cape Town's Atlantic coastline is also its platinum strip. Bungalows once given to returning servicemen have been replaced with millionaire's apartments. Clifton's four beaches attract a more upmarket and single crowd; Camps Bay is more for families and commoners. Both beaches are beautiful, but the water's almost always cold. Drive time: 15 min. PLAY Gary's Surf School Surfer's Corner, Muizenberg, 011-27/21-788-9839, garysurf.com Most locals ride their first waves at the beach, known for its easy swells. For lessons or equipment rental, Gary's the man. He and five other instructors give two-hour lessons. After, they let you keep your board and wet suit for the rest of the day. Reservations recommended. $62, includes equipment rental. Drive time: 30 min. PLAY Imhoff Equestrian Center Imhoff Farm, M65, Kommetjie, 011-27/82-774-1191, horseriding.co.za Good for picture-perfect guided horse rides across endless Noordhoek Beach, between Kommetjie and Noordhoek. Rides last two hours. $28 for 9 a.m. and noon rides; $36 for 4 p.m. Sunset Ride in winter, 5 p.m. in summer. Drive time: 30 min. PLAY Llandudno Beach South of Camps Bay, at the base of a steep, noncommercial enclave of upmarket homes, is a smaller beach with a long Welsh name. Utterly romantic, with bleached white sands that abut rocky outcrops, and ideal for body boarding and summer sundowners. Drive time: 30 min. BEATING THE SOUTH AFRICAN TAXMAN Save your receipts! In S.A., the 14% Value-Added Tax (VAT) is added to nearly all goods and services, and is almost always included in advertised prices. Visitors can reclaim VAT paid on goods only (minus an administration fee of 1.5%), provided total value is 250 Rand ($41) or more. This excludes meals, hotels, and services. If you wish to claim, you must request a tax invoice whenever you purchase goods. Upon departure, submit to an inspection of all goods you are claiming at the VAT refund office at Cape Town International Airport before you check your bags, unless you plan to repack the goods in your carry-on bag. Allow a minimum of 30 minutes extra for this process. If approved, the inspector will give you a rand check, which you can cash in the desired currency at an airport banking facility. Depending on how many souvenirs you're lugging back, it can be worthwhile. Tip: Don't bother filing your claim at the tax refund office at the V&A Waterfront. You're still required to submit to an inspection at the airport. In addition to VAT, all hotels charge a nonrefundable 1% tourism levy. For more info and downloadable forms, go to taxrefunds.co.za.

Cape Town's urban area is small, with a compact Central Business District (CBD). Charming residential neighborhoods, like Gardens and Oranjezicht, creep up toward Table Mountain. SEE Gold of Africa Museum 96 Strand St., 011-27/21-405-1540, goldofafrica.com Dynamically curated exhibits that celebrate the history and artistry of African gold. Hundreds of gleaming artifacts from ancient African civilizations are paired with interesting narratives. There's also a lovely tea garden. Closed Sun. $3.30 EAT Ginja 121 Castle St., 011-27/21-426-2368, diningout.co.za (search: ginja) Grain house turned restaurant with a strong foodie following. Dishes have original flavor combos, like prawns with chili and coriander foam. Outstanding spicy concoctions include crocodile curry with grilled langoustines. Dinner only. Closed Sun. EAT Haiku 33 Church St., 011-27/21-424-7000 Busy, dimly lit Asian restaurant known for its dim sum, wok-fried veggies, and sushi. There's even a robata (Japanese open-flame grill), where you can cook your choice of marinated meats. Closed Sun. EAT Melissa's 94 Kloof St., 011-27/21-424-5540, melissas.co.za Urban deli near the top of steep Kloof St. It sells pain au chocolat and other pastries, a weigh-before-you-pay salad buffet, and mega sandwiches. Order the roast beef with red onion marmalade served on hearty ciabatta bread. Pick up picnic stuff for mountain hikes or sundowners on the beach. Open until 8 p.m. daily. EAT Mt. Nelson Hotel Afternoon Tea Buffet 76 Orange St., 011-27/21-483-1737, mountnelson.co.za No place captures colonialism in Cape Town better than the grand old hotel with pink exterior. Afternoon tea in the lounge or on the terrace is a must. It has a lavish spread of desserts, scones, and petite crustless finger sandwiches. It's a little touristy but worth doing for the ultimate colonial Cape experience. Served 2:30 p.m.--5:30 p.m. daily. $20 per person. DRINK Caveau Wine Bar & Deli 50 Bree St., 011-27/21-422-1367, caveau.co.za Cozy wine bar in the old Heritage Square cellar with an extensive wine list and many South African wines by the glass. Its unconventional descriptions of wines--by mood rather than varietal--are user-friendly. The deli can whip up an accompanying plate of local cheeses and cured meats. Closed Sun. DRINK Relish 70 New Church St., 011-27/21-422-3584, relish.co.za Enjoy the best view of looming Table Mountain over cocktails such as Relish Bull, made with Absolut Citron, pineapple and cranberry juices, and Red Bull. The city's trendiest like to gather at the triple-story glass-walled bar and restaurant for post-work unwinding. There's a gastropub menu, too. SHOP African Music Store 134 Long St., 011-27/21-426-0857 No dreads required at the shrine to African music, which houses an impressive collection of mostly South African CDs. The store sells it all, from kwaito, the township hip-hop mix that has South African youth on its feet, to the Soweto String Quartet. SHOP Atlas Trading 94 Wale St., 011-27/21-423-4361 An aromatic spice shop in Bo-Kaap, the city's old Malay quarter, that's the same as it ever was--full of local gossip, as well as masalas, curry powders, and other ingredients for the community's curry pots. Like most other Muslim-run shops, it's closed on Fridays noon to 2 p.m. SHOP Imagenius 117 Long St., 011-27/21-423-7870, imagenius.co.za Inviting boutique crammed with contemporary handcrafted goods in a riot of colors and off-the-wall designs. You'll find a range of iridescent-hued springbok-hide cushions, striking jewelry, bath goodies, and more. PLAY Artscape Theatre D.F. Malan St., 011-27/21-410-9800, artscape.co.za Original South African plays, such as dramatic works by playwright Athol Fugard, and the earthy stand-up comedy of Cape Town's own Kurt Schoonraad, as well as familiar productions like La Bohème with an African twist. Tickets from $8. SPLURGE Africa Nova Cape Quarter Shopping Centre, 72 Waterkant St., Green Point, 011-27/21-425-5123 High-end Afro-gallery whose craftsmanship is unrivaled in the Cape Quarter. Finds include contemporary ceramics by South African artists such as Helen Vaughan and handmade potato-printed fabrics by Kudhinda. The central courtyard outside is a Capetonian favorite. ROADWORTHY ADVICE   South Africans drive on the left side of the road.   Local drivers vigilantly adhere to the keep-left rule. Only drive in the right-hand lane if you are passing a car.   South Africans don't honk (or hoot, as they call it). Rapid flashing of emergency lights at your car can be either a sign of irritation or a gesture of thanks. If a car flashes lights behind you, it wants to overtake you, and you should move left. A repeat of flashing after it passes you means "thank you."   Leave a big gap between your car and any minitaxis; the drivers believe they control the roadways.   Gasoline, called petrol, is full-service everywhere. Always the tip the attendant at least a rand or two.   Parking on central Cape Town streets is controlled by licensed parking monitors who must show their ID. Rates are 25¢ for 30 minutes, 50¢ for an hour.   Everyone jaywalks in Cape Town, so beware of pedestrians.

Accommodations don't come cheap in Cape Town. The closer to the beach, the more you pay. Best bets are City Bowl guesthouses, which are cute, pleasant, and well-priced. Rates exclude 14% VAT. and 1% Tourism Levy. Breakfast included, unless otherwise indicated. CITY An African Villa 19 Carstens St., Tamboerskloof, 011-27/21-423-2162, capetowncity.co.za/villaWall-mounted Zulu hats and giant proteas adorn the 12-room Afro-Zen guesthouse with colorful, comfortable rooms. There's a splash pool, and A/C in all rooms. From $100. CITY De Tafelberg Guesthouse 68 Molteno Rd., Oranjezicht, 011-27/21-424-9159, detafelberg.com A well-appointed guesthouse suspended above the city on the upper slopes of Table Mountain. Earthy African tones, platform beds, and stone basins inside; pristine pool and Jacuzzi outside. Breakfast is served on the outdoor deck. Amazing views. From $114. CITY Dunkley House 3b Gordon St., Gardens, 011-27/21-462-7650, dunkleyhouse.com A small guesthouse that's a hidden haven in a gentrified neighborhood of narrow one-way streets and Victorian homes. The decor is classic with art deco details. Homemade cookies and fresh fruit are delivered to rooms daily. There's a big pool, too. From $114, includes full breakfast and taxes. CITY Metropole Hotel 38 Long St., 011-27/21-424-7247, metropolehotel.co.za Cape Town's first inner-city boutique hotel, and its sleekest. Chic lighting and minimalist luxury reign in what was once a dumpy hotel. The handsome rooms feature neutral tones and dark furniture. The white-on-white Veranda restaurant serves modern South African dishes like seared shrimp with watermelon and chili, and the red-hot M-Bar pours stiff drinks. Both attract a well-heeled crowd. From $162 in low season, $211 in high season. CITY Table Mountain Lodge 10A Tamboerskloof Rd., Tamboerskloof, 011-27/21-423-0042, tablemountainlodge.co.za Once a farmhouse, the blue-and-white lodge built in 1885 has antique furniture and modern bathrooms. The kitschy Scottish bar has tartan-covered stools. Its plunge pool and lovely veranda are surrounded by a slightly overgrown Cape garden with yellow hibiscus and creeping vines. A quick stroll to many restaurants. From $126. CITY The Village Lodge 49 Napier St., De Waterkant, 011-27/21-421-1106, thevillagelodge.com High-style digs in the superfashionable De Waterkant area. The sexy chocolate-walled rooms come with slate showers, and there's a private pool/bar and sundeck on the roof. The Soho Restaurant downstairs serves breakfast, sandwiches, and salads for lunch, and Thai food for dinner. Want to hit the neighborhood clubs? Check out Opium (6 Dixon St., 011-27/ 21-438-8315), a couple of blocks away. From $106 in low season, $196 in high season. BEACH La Splendida 121 Beach Rd., Mouille Pt., 011-27/21-439-5119, lasplendida.co.za Comfortable new all-suite hotel with a fantastic seaside location across from the Promenade, close to the V&A Waterfront and beaches. Rooms are corporate African in style with Big Five animal-print upholstery on the chairs and some sofas. Most rooms have sea or mountain views. From $107. BEACH Rosedene Lodge 3 Rosedene Rd., Sea Pt., 011-27/21-439-7037, rosedenelodge.com A small guesthouse on a quiet lane behind Sea Point's busy main road, just a couple of blocks from the water. It oozes good taste with its minimalist decor, crisp linens, artwork, and personal service. Details such as mosaic-tiled or slate bathrooms, outside reading lights on private terraces, and movie night twice a month, with a big screen in the pool area, make it a standout. The staff can even arrange car rentals at good rates. From $92 in low season, $180 in high season. WINELANDS Résidence Klein Oliphants Hoek 14 Academie St., Franschhoek, 011-27/21-876-2566, kleinoliphantshoek.co.za Once called Oliphants Hoek for the elephants that freely roamed the valley. The guesthouse is in an 1888 missionary station on a quiet back street, and looks out over mountains and a landscaped garden with flowers and herbs. Depending on how full the guesthouse is, the chef/owners prepare extraordinary five-course gourmet meals ($48) on a wood-burning stove, and serve such dishes as scallops with cucumber and yogurt. The restaurant is open to the public, but guests get first preference for dinner reservations. From $84 in low season, $98 in high season, includes breakfast. SPLURGE Winchester Mansions Hotel 221 Beach Rd., Sea Pt., 011-27/21-434-2351, winchester.co.za Gracious colonial-style hotel built in 1922 across from Sea Point Promenade. Palm trees, bougainvillea, and a tranquil, shady colonnaded courtyard blend with warm South African hospitality. There are numerous affordable treatments at the on-site Gingko Health and Wellness Spa, such as the Gingko De-Stress Express ($77). Quote these special rates offered to BudgetTravelOnline: Colonial-style doubles from $126 in low season, $270 in high season. Modern doubles from $143 in low season, $302 in high season. Some suites for under $240.

TO / FROM THE AIRPORT Way 2 Go Shuttle Service 011-27/21-934-4651, way2go.co.za Door-to-door shuttle van to/from Cape Town International Airport that runs 24 hours. Drivers will meet you with a signboard in the international terminal near the rental-car kiosk if you reserve ahead, or in the domestic terminal at the Way 2 Go kiosk. Online prebooking advised. Rates for a one-way trip from airport to your hotel anywhere in the city center or back to the airport are $18 for one person, $20 for two. GETTING AROUND TAXIS Minibus Taxis White minibus taxis are a cheap way to travel major city roads, but they're not for the squeamish. The taxis can be cramped, noisy, and sometimes shabby, but they're fast--sometimes hair-raisingly so. They don't make official stops; board anywhere you can flag one down, and shout when you want to get off. Purchase tickets onboard. Note: These are not a safe option outside the city center and Atlantic Seaboard. About 40¢ to points within the city center. Marine Taxis 011-27/21-434-0434, marinetaxis.co.za Most reliable 24-hour taxi service in Cape Town, with a fleet of new cars. Call for pickup. Cash only. Fares start at 33¢, plus $1.80 per kilometer for up to seven in a minivan, four in a sedan. BUS Hop On--Hop Off Sightseeing Cape Town Bus 011-27/21-511-1784, hyltonross.co.za Open-air double-decker buses with a guide's commentary that make routine stops at major attractions only, like Table Mountain cableway, the V&A Waterfront, and the Cape Town Tourism Office. Hop on and off wherever you like. Note: Buses make stops at each sight every half hour in summer, about every hour in winter. Pay as you board; you can even pay with a credit card on the bus. Passes valid for one day. $15 for City and Mini Peninsula Tours, $26 for a combo pass. CAR Avis, 011-27/21-934-0330, avis.co.za Tempest Car Hire, 011-27/11-396-1080, tempestcarhire.co.za With so much to see beyond the city limits, it's helpful to have your own wheels. Try Avis for best all-around selection and service, or Tempest for low-priced, no-frills cars. Expect to pay about $39/day, including insurance, for a manual vehicle without A/C or radio, and from $64/day for an automatic. Note: People drive on the left side of the road. South African roads are well-marked and well-maintained, but be aware of speeders. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN At newsstands Cape Times, 70¢; Cape Argus, 60¢, tonight.co.za; Cape Etc. magazine, $2.50 Tune in Cape Talk, 567 mw (talk radio with entertainment updates) TOURS Footsteps to Freedom City Walk 011-27/21-465-2032, footstepstofreedom.co.za The complete story of Cape Town and its people. Three-hour guided walk incorporates many historic sites, like the Grand Parade, Company's Garden, and St. George's Cathedral, and covers early trading, slavery, apartheid, freedom, and urban regeneration. Departs from the Visitor Information Centre at the corner of Castle St. and Burg St. at 10:30 a.m. Mon.--Sat. $16, includes visit to District Six Museum. Cape Care Route 011-27/21-448-3117, tourcapers.co.za Community tours by minivan that focus on uplifting social, economic, and environmental programs. Participants can rspeak directly with people working on projects. Run by Faizal Gangat, who won Best S.A. Tour Guide Award in 2004--2005 from the Tourist Guide Registration Office. Township walking tours also available. Reservations essential. $75 per person for a full-day tour. Daytrippers 011-27/21-511-4766, daytrippers.co.za A 14-year-old adventure-tour company with a stellar safety record. Day tours include hiking, biking, and picnicking on Cape Point and Peninsula, cycling through the Winelands, and even kloofing down Suicide Gorge. Kloofing is an exhilarating and uniquely South African sport where you hike along a gorge and then jump into pools from varying heights. $57--$90, includes equipment and lunch. NUMBERS TO KNOW   Emergency Services 107 or 112 from cell phone   Mountain Rescue Services 011-27/21-948-9900   Telephone Directory Assistance 1023   Tourism Info 011-27/21-462-4260   Computicket Ticket booking service for most events, 011-27/83-915-8000, computicket.com   Mr. Delivery Wide range of food deliveries from local restaurants; Cape Town: 011-27/21-423-4177, the suburban coastal neighborhood of Sea Point: 011-27/21-439-9916, mrdelivery.com For local calls, drop the international access number (011), the country code (27) and the city code (21). All local numbers have seven digits. For cell numbers (those beginning with prefixes 74-, 82-, 83-,or 84-), add a 0 before the prefix.