Eat Like a Local: Boston

By Louisa Kasdon
October 7, 2008
0811_elalboston
Six city favorites include a café crossed with a live jazz and blues club, a take-out shack for lobster rolls, and a celebrity chef's casual spot for untraditional tapas.

Hungry Mother: Four restaurant veterans who met while working the fine-dining circuit in Boston got together and opened this tiny, eclectic space (the floors slope every which way) near MIT. The emphasis is on sustainable ingredients and robust Virginian country flavors from the home state of chef Barry Maiden (pictured far left). You won't find a better meal—from cornmeal-coated catfish to flatiron steak—in Boston, even at twice the price. Make a reservation, unless you like waiting in line. 233 Cardinal Medeiros Ave., 617/499-0090, hungrymothercambridge.com, entrées from $9.

The Beehive: Come for the music; stay for the food. That's pretty much the unspoken motto at the Beehive, a café crossed with a live jazz and blues club that regularly hosts the Tim Miller Quartet and soul sister Valerie Stephens. Executive chef Rebecca Newell's late-night nibbles include grilled cheese sandwiches served with short ribs, Guinness-battered fried oysters, and an irresistible trio of mini beef Wellingtons. 541 Tremont St., 617/423-0069, beehiveboston.com, entrées from $11.

Pho Republique: The place looks a bit like a Vietnamese version of Disney World—Buddhas of all shapes and sizes adorn the walls, bathrooms, and bar—but the food is authentic. It takes the chef close to eight hours to perfect the cinnamon-and-anise-scented broth and satiny, hand-cut chow fun noodles that compose the signature dish: massive bowls of pho with beef brisket, chicken, shrimp, or tofu. It's worth every second of effort. 1415 Washington St., 617/262-0005, phorepublique.net, entrées from $13.50.

Persephone: This fashionable restaurant may share a space with a trendy clothing boutique, Achilles, but the food won't give you sticker shock. In fact, it's a bargain considering the bistro's kitchen is run by chef Michael Leviton of Lumière, one of the city's top-rated restaurants. Leviton has a deft touch when it comes to fine food, transforming a dish as basic as sunny-side up eggs into something spectacular by using duck eggs, shiitakes, gremolata, and rosemary focaccia. 283 Summer St., 617/695-2257, achilles-project.com, small entrées from $11.

Kelly's Roast Beef: Scoring a lobster roll at Kelly's is the birthright of every Bostonian. There's nothing fancy about the place: The take-out shack (also known for its roast beef) hasn't changed much since it opened in 1951 in the Italian enclave of Revere. But the creamy concoction of crustacean, mayonnaise, and a hint of celery on a perfectly toasted and buttered bun is the most delicious lobsta Boston has to offer. 410 Revere Beach Blvd., 781/284-9129, kellysroastbeef.com, sandwiches from $5.

Toro Best: known for his upscale cuisine and appearances on major food shows, chef Ken Oringer has set Boston ablaze with his casual Spanish restaurant, Toro, and its not-so-traditional tapas menu. The tiny bites include citrus-infused yellowfin tuna, foie gras with pear-and-bacon chutney, and a mean jamón serrano. Many of the plates pair nicely with the caramelized caipirinha, which tastes just like toffee. 1704 Washington St., 617/536-4300, toro-restaurant.com, tapas from $5.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

This Just In

For more travel news, updated daily, check our blog, This Just In. Ski central The Taos Ski Valley in New Mexico debuts a new double-black-diamond run and an area for beginner snowboarders this winter. skitaos.org. Designing women A new tour from the Chicago Architecture Foundation, "Women of Influence," focuses on the females who helped build the city. architecture.org, $10. Chocolate fix The annual decadent event known as the Chocolate Show returns to NYC this month at Pier 94, with demos by top pastry chefs and a chocolate fashion show. chocolateshow.com, $28. High tea in Kyoto Iyemon Salon, a new tea lounge in Kyoto, pairs classic brews with such tea-infused dishes as green-tea pork. iyemonsalon.jp. Islamic fine art The I.M. Pei–designed Museum of Islamic Art opens in Doha, Qatar, next month. mia.org.qa. Shipshape After an almost two-year refurbishment, the floating Intrepid Sea, Air & Space Museum is back in Manhattan. intrepidmuseum.org, $19.50. In-air Internet American Airlines is providing Wi-Fi on flights between New York and Miami, Los Angeles, and San Francisco for a fee of $13 per passenger. Easier check-in Passengers now need to check in just once for round-trip flights on Continental. The airline will e-mail your return boarding pass to you or fax it to your hotel for free. Golf rewards Marriott guests can now earn or redeem reward points for rounds of golf at 20 golf clubs affiliated with the hotel chain. Vegas on Virgin Virgin America has begun daily nonstop flights between New York and Las Vegas. Cushier cruises EasyCruise's newest ship has amenities like a salon, a sauna, hot tubs, and an Internet room. Greece itineraries also now include Crete and Rhodes. Vietnam rentals Budget has become the first U.S. rental-car brand to expand to Vietnam. Bookings can be made at budget.com.vn. Arty hotel InterContinental's new Chicago hotel near O'Hare airport features an art gallery with its own curator and rotating exhibits of Chicago artists.

"How Much Did You Pay for Your Wife?"

One of the best experiences I had on a recent trip through the Middle East was one that set me back the least. My boyfriend, Adam, and I spent our first night in the ancient (and breathtaking) red-rock city of Petra, Jordan, in a traditional hotel. After we'd slept off the jet lag—and gotten engaged atop one of Petra's highest peaks—we decided to spend a night at the Ammarin Bedouin Camp, a quick drive away through the desert. As we pulled up to the bare-bones campground, which was little more than the low table you see pictured and a few rows of traditional bedouin tents, we found our unsuspecting welcomer, Mohammad, sound asleep on the cushions in the photo. Yet, without missing a beat, he sprang up from his nap, poured us hot tea, and began gleefully teaching us Arabic words out of my phrase book. We whiled away the morning with Miriam, a lively eyed shepherdess from the next village over, and spent the afternoon riding camels (my advice: Start with a half-day trek, or you'll walk bowlegged for a while) and lamenting the high price of wives in the region with our guide, Faisal. In fact, while I was off in hot pursuit of a baby camel I wanted to photograph, the men gathered around to congratulate Adam—and wasted no time asking how much he'd paid for me. Later that evening, we were joined by two dozen Jordanian police officers on a retreat, a gaggle of French tourists, and a group of American dads, former grad school roommates now touring the world with their families. We took turns trading stories, tips, and future travel plans: Alex, one of their sons, was off the next day to study abroad in Turkey. I hope he enjoys his stay just as much as we enjoyed our time around the campfire, which helped us get to know our hosts and fellow guests in a way we never would have otherwise. But that's often the case when you, literally, take the road less traveled.