River Cruises: Into the Heart of Europe

By JD Rinne
March 16, 2010
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Tibor Bognár/Corbis
An outside cabin, charming towns, artisanal wines and foods? No wonder demand is booming for intimate, leisurely cruises along these five European rivers. Sign us up!

River cruises—leisurely, elegant, and easy—are quickly gaining in popularity. Some cruise lines have seen bookings grow by 60 percent over the past five years. Europe is especially fashionable right now: In a recent study, booking site cruisecompete.com found that requests for European river cruises have increased more than 22 percent since August 2009.

Why all the interest? River cruises sail on major waterways like the Danube and the Rhine, docking at charming towns along the way. You'll be much closer to the heart of a city than you would be when cruising by sea—for example, river cruises along the Seine dock at Port de Grenelle in Paris, within walking distance of the Eiffel Tower. And with perks like gourmet food, wine pairings from local vineyards, a room with a view, and guided tours and excursions often included in the price, it's hard to resist the urge to pack up and leave tomorrow.

Europe's cruising season extends from March to September. Cruises in May, June, and July (the region's high season) are more expensive. Planning ahead is a must: The ships are much smaller and more intimate than their seafaring counterparts, and trip dates tend to book up fast.

POPULAR RIVERS

Rhine
The mighty, 820-mile Rhine begins in Switzerland and streams northwest along the border between France and Germany and into the Netherlands, passing by Basel, Switzerland; Strasbourg, France; and Cologne, Germany.
Major providers: AMA Waterways, Avalon Waterways, Cruise West, Gate 1 Travel, Tauck, Uniworld, Viking River Cruises.
Sample itinerary: Viking River Cruises' seven-night Rhine Getaway stops in Amsterdam and Kinderdijk in the Netherlands, where cruisers can debark for a tour of a working windmill. Heidelberg, Germany, home to the country's oldest university, is also a stop, and castle tours are on the docket, including Germany's 700-year-old Marksburg Castle. Prices start at $1,256 per person for an outside stateroom, guided shore excursions, and meals (including multicourse dinners nightly with wine). Another popular Rhine cruise is a springtime tulip cruise that sails through Holland and Belgium and their smaller rivers. The itineraries are timed to the famous—and visually stunning—tulip season in the Netherlands.

Seine
The second-longest river in France (the Loire is the longest) flows through Paris before emptying into the English Channel.
Major providers: Avalon Waterways, Uniworld, Viking River Cruises.
Sample itinerary: Uniworld's seven-night Paris & Normandy cruise includes stops in Rouen; Honfleur, a harbor town that was a favorite of impressionist painters; and Vernon (Giverny), where Claude Monet's home and garden are located. Prices start at $1,999 per person, including a river-view stateroom, all meals, wine and beer, guided shore excursions with an audio tour, complimentary use of the ship's bicycles, and a lecture on the role of the Seine River in impressionist paintings.

Danube
The 1,771-mile Danube begins in southwestern Germany's Black Forest region and stretches across Austria, Hungary, Croatia, Serbia, Romania, and Bulgaria before joining the Black Sea.
Major providers: AMA Waterways, Avalon Waterways, Cruise West, Gate 1 Travel, Tauck, Uniworld, Viking River Cruises.
Sample itinerary: Because the Danube is so huge, there are plenty of itineraries and cities to choose from (Nürnberg and Passau, Germany; Vienna; and Budapest are on many cruises). A four-night sailing from Passau to Budapest on Gate 1 Travel floats along the Wachau Valley near Melk, a city famous for its Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines and apricot brandy. The itinerary calls for dockings in Vienna and Budapest, with plenty of time to explore on your own; there's also a special onboard performance of Mozart's "The Marriage of Figaro." Prices start at $649 per person, including 11 meals, unlimited wine with dinner, evening entertainment, and a Mozart and Strauss concert in Passau.

Rhône
The 505-mile Rhône rises in Switzerland and runs south into the Mediterranean Sea, drifting through Lyon and the wine-growing Côtes du Rhône region of southern France.
Major providers: Avalon Waterways, Uniworld, Viking River Cruises.
Sample itinerary: Viking River Cruises' Portraits of Southern France stops in Lyon, Tournon-sur-Rhône, Avignon, and Arles. Highlights include guided tours in cities like Beaune, the capital of the Burgundy wine region, and the fortress town of Avignon, called the "City of Popes" because seven popes lived there from 1309 to 1377. The itinerary also puts you in the heart of Provence's lavender fields, with plenty of time for wine tasting at local vineyards. Prices start at $1,856 per person and include accommodations in a river-view cabin, all meals, wine, and guided tours.

Volga
A classic Russian cruise includes the longest river in Europe, which runs for almost 2,300 miles. Most Volga itineraries involve journeys between St. Petersburg and Moscow and traverse other waterways in addition to the "Great Mother Volga" itself.
Major providers: AMA Waterways, Gate 1 Travel, Viking River Cruises.
Sample itinerary: Gate 1 Travel has a weeklong cruise itinerary with stops in Moscow, including a city tour with stops at Red Square and Lubyanka, the former headquarters of the KGB; ancient Uglich, where the pastel-colored Church of St. Dmitry on the Blood, raised in honor of the murdered son of Ivan the Terrible, still graces the banks of the river; and Kizhi, a small island on Lake Onega, northeast of St. Petersburg, where the onion-domed, wooden Church of the Transfiguration complex, built without a single nail, is located. Prices start at $1,149 per person, including guided shore excursions, 20 meals, entrance fees, and all transfers.

Plan Your Next Getaway
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How to Survive 10 Travel Emergencies

What Should I Do When... ...I MISS MY FLIGHT?Get to the airport right away and ask to be put on the next flight. If an agent gives you grief, explain why you missed the flight—particularly, why it wasn't your fault (snarled traffic, for instance). Airlines are more likely to ask for additional payment if an agent thinks you missed the flight simply because you wanted to change your ticket without paying a change fee. With a little luck (and a sympathetic agent), you'll be on a flight later that day at no extra charge.Worst case: Paying the difference between your new ticket and the original fare, plus a ticket-changing fee of about $150 for domestic flights.When all else fails: Realize that no matter what the official policy is, agents can cut you some slack. Mentioning that you belong to the airline's frequent-flier program can't hurt. May we also suggest crying as a tactic? ...THE AIRLINE LOSES MY LUGGAGE?Take the obvious first step and contact the airport's lost-and-found. File a bag-claim form and ask about the airline's policy for reimbursing you for toiletries and other essentials. Most bags are recovered and will be shipped to you (at home, a hotel, wherever—and at the airline's expense), so stay polite.Worst case: About 2 percent of delayed luggage disappears forever. If your bag vanishes for good, file a form that itemizes what was inside it. Most airlines won't pay for precious items, including cash, artwork, electronics, and jewelry. So don't pack them in luggage. For covered items, you'll be paid for the depreciated value, not what it would cost to buy brand-new gear (including the bag itself). Sometimes you'll even have to produce receipts. On domestic flights, a carrier's liability maxes out at $3,300 per passenger. Weirdly, liability on most international flights is even less—about $1,700 per passenger.When all else fails: Instead of looking for receipts for items purchased years ago, bring in printouts of the current value of comparable items for sale as "used" on Amazon. Overall, the moral is: Never pack anything of value in your checked luggage. ...I CRASH MY RENTAL CAR?After the accident (here or abroad), insist on calling the police (even if it's a minor fender bender), and make copies of the report. If you declined collision damage waiver insurance coverage, your auto-insurance policy should cover damages. If you declined rental coverage and don't have auto insurance, the credit card you used to pay for the rental should pay for damage to the vehicle.Worst case: You didn't check for loopholes in your policy's fine print, and now you're stuck with a huge bill. Coverage provided by your credit card or auto insurer often doesn't apply to vans and luxury vehicles. Rentals in some countries, such as Ireland and Jamaica, may not be covered either. That's why you need to call your credit card company and check the fine print before you depart.When all else fails: Never agree to pay anything to the rental company on the spot. If you've looked into all the other options and it looks like you're on the hook for thousands of dollars, call a lawyer. ...MY TOUR OPERATOR GOES OUT OF BUSINESS?Hopefully, you paid with a credit card, which you should always do because it offers the most protection. If so, call your card company and explain what happened. Your money can be refunded if you contest the charges within 60 or 90 days of when your statement is mailed to you.Worst case: You paid with a check and didn't buy travel insurance that specifically covers the financial default of a tour operator. In which case, you're not getting your money back.When all else fails: Contact the United States Tour Operators Association (ustoa.com) to see if the tour operator was a member of their group—and as such, would have been required to keep $1 million in reserves to refund to customers. ...MY PASSPORT IS STOLEN—AND I'M THE VICTIM OF A CRIME?For most crimes except minor pickpocketing, call the police. If you've been hurt or robbed, or your travel plans must be changed, the police report will help you file claims with health and travel insurers. Cancel any stolen debit and credit cards, too. Worst case: Your passport was stolen, and without it you won't be allowed back into the country. Contact the nearest U.S. embassy or consulate ASAP. With luck, you normally either travel with a photocopy of your passport, which will help speed up the process of getting a new one, or you've e-mailed a scan of your passport to yourself at a Web-based account you can access. When all else fails: Bust out your emergency stash of traveler's checks, which you brought along for just such an occasion—and which should hold you over until you get your hands on new cards and a new passport. ...MY CHECKED LUGGAGE IS ROBBED?You'll probably never get your stuff back, but you should file reports anyway. Why? They increase the chances that the thieves will eventually be caught. If there's a slip in your bag stating that the TSA inspected it, file a claim at the TSA website (www.tsa.gov). Worst case: There's no slip of paper from the TSA noting that your bag has been inspected. So file a claim for reimbursement for lost and stolen items with the airline directly—and quickly, because claims often must be submitted within as little as 24 hours of an incident. Ironically, airlines won't pay for the most-likely-to-be-stolen items, such as jewelry and electronics, and they impose caps on their total liability per passenger.When all else fails: File claims with the airline, the airport(s), and the TSA. To be safer next time, put a TSA-recognized lock on your bag to prevent the half dozen, non-TSA workers who handle it from being able to pry it open. ...I GET SICK WITH A BUNCH OF OTHER PASSENGERS ON A CRUISE?If your cruise is interrupted or postponed because of an outbreak, you should expect to be given the option to cancel for a full refund or to reschedule at a discount of up to half off.Worst case: Cruise ships are not required to compensate passengers for illnesses. If you and a small number of passengers get sick on an otherwise uneventful sailing, don't expect a refund.When all else fails: Call the cruise line's customer-service department and request a discount on a future sailing, explaining that your vacation was ruined and that you'd like to give the experience another shot at a discounted rate, or with credit for on board purchases. ...I NEED EMERGENCY MEDICAL HELP AT MY DESTINATION?Most U.S.-based health-insurance plans offer some coverage overseas, but only for emergencies, such as broken bones or heart attacks—anything that would send a reasonable person to the ER. Chances are you'll have to pay the hospital or doctor directly and get reimbursed later, so keep all receipts. In some rare cases, health plans work with doctors and clinics overseas, and if your treatment occurs in-network, your insurer may be able to pay the bill directly, saving you the trouble of paying out of pocket.Worst case: You have no insurance and rely on Medicare or Medicaid. Neither program will protect you outside the U.S. Be sure to buy supplementary travel insurance in advance of your trip. To scout out the policies of multiple established, well-regarded providers, use insuremytrip.com.When all else fails: Get to a doctor or hospital and worry about payment later. In many parts of the world, medical treatments cost far less than in the U.S. And in countries with socialized health plans, medical bills have a way of disappearing, even for foreigners. ...I'VE BEEN ARRESTED OVERSEAS?Drugs are involved in roughly one-third of the arrests of Americans abroad, so it goes without saying to just say no. Legal systems vary widely around the globe, however, and to avoid getting in trouble because of an unusual foreign law—in Singapore, for instance, you can be fined for not flushing the toilet—study up on your destination's peculiar regulations in guidebooks and at travel.state.gov. Worst case: You're facing serious jail time, or worse. When speaking to the police, be respectful and apologetic without necessarily admitting wrongdoing.When all else fails: Tell everyone who will listen that you demand to speak with a U.S. embassy officer, who can help you navigate that country's legal system, find a local attorney, and send messages to your family. ...I'M CAUGHT IN A NATURAL OR MAN-MADE DISASTER? Serious emergencies can happen anywhere (see: London, Haiti, Chile, Mumbai, New Orleans), so it's a good idea to e-mail your itinerary, including flight and hotel info, to a friend back home. Register your trip with the State Department for free at travel.state.gov, so that the government will know where you are and will be able to help get you to safety in a crisis. Worst case: If you're fortunate enough to have life and limb intact, money shouldn't be a concern: When true emergencies occur, hotels and airlines are generally very sympathetic to travelers and waive cancellation and change restrictions.When all else fails: Figure out a way to get yourself to a U.S. embassy or consulate, which can provide safety and coordinate evacuations. Getting home may take time, so be patient, and try to console the travelers around you, who may become your new best friends. CORRECTION: The link for registering a trip with the U.S. State Department has been corrected. Sorry.

Just Back From... a Family Trip to Oahu & Kauai

We're still laughing about... Newbies on the Napali Coast who gingerly began their hike in new shoes. No chance! Plan on trashing the ones you wear, because the deeper you go into the hike, the muddier it gets. It took us several hours to trek four miles roundtrip on Kauai's Napali Coast. That "path" is rough, rocky, muddy, hot, and straight uphill in places, but the views are worth it. [PHOTO] Great local meal... Plate lunches under $10 at two spots in Honolulu: Kaka'ako Kitchen, at Ward Center, and Nico's at Pier 38, where we watched the fishermen come in. Five-spice shoyu chicken, ahi with wasabi cream, the freshest Nalo salads, and sides with flavors from the islands' many cultural influences are served in generous portions. When we wanted an upscale, sit-outdoors-with-a-great-view of the beach lunch instead, we went to Ola's, at the Turtle Bay Resort in Kahuku. The North Shore shrimp will spoil you forever. One note: cooling winds blow off the ocean, so bring a light sweater. What we should have packed... A little flashlight. We learned that 1) lights do go out, and 2) walks at night can be very, very dark. Fun surprises... The waves in Waimea Bay on Oahu peaked at 45 feet the day after we landed. [PHOTO] It was lucky timing! We got to attend the famed Eddie Aikau invitational surf event, which was held for the first time in five years. [PHOTO] The Triple Crown of Surfing Pipeline Masters began the day after. The waves were (only!) 25 feet, but the surfing was still spectacular and the beaches packed. A few more surprises: all the peacocks at Waimea Valley on Oahu [PHOTO], holiday parades in every town, and handmade treasures for the holidays, like the little Hawaiian angel ornament I couldn't resist. [PHOTO] Never again... Paying a $7.50 beach-entrance fee—the charge for Hanauma Bay on Oahu. While it's wonderful for snorkeling, you can snorkel for free in places like Shark's Cove on Oahu or Poipu Beach [PHOTO] on Kauai. Worth every penny... Eating at pricey Roy's or Merriman's. They've mastered the fusion of Hawaiian-grown food with complex flavors. A grand birthday celebration at Roy's had our waiter serving 15 different-flavored dishes to the three of us. I loved Roy's classic four-fish dinner: two ounces each of four different fish prepared four ways. My rule of thumb: Never skip dessert on vacation. At Merriman's, in Poipu, we melted for the handmade phyllo dough brushed with coffee, filled with liquid chocolate, baked, and served with vanilla bean ice cream. Ahhh.... Wish we'd known that... Ordering a Hawaii Entertainment book before leaving the mainland could have saved us lots, even on lodging. A mental note for next time. Hotel we liked... Waimea Plantation Cottages, in Kauai, made us feel like we lived in Hawaii. [PHOTO] We strolled the beautiful grounds, hung out on the huge porch, and walked into town for snacks at the Big Save—little coconut pies at Yumi's or shave ice at the original Jo-Jo's. A great, almost always vacant swimming beach is a short drive down the road toward Waimea Canyon.

Real Deals: April 2010

How was your trip? Have you taken a Real Deals vacation? E-mail us how it went at RealDeals@BudgetTravel.com. Before you book... These trips and starting prices ("From") sell out quickly, and details may change. Call the companies for complete info. Most rates are based on midweek dates; weekend travel can raise the price. Under "Why It's a Deal," round-trip flights are based on the lowest April departures on kayak.com at press time. Usually not included: service, security, and visa costs; hotel, car-rental, and airport taxes. Check each listing for fuel surcharge details. Prices are per person, with two people sharing a room, unless otherwise noted. The single supplement ("SS") is the fee charged to solo travelers. Some companies will pair singles at no additional cost. UNITED STATES Orlando Extravaganza, from $449 The most unfun thing about Disney World? Planning the trip. This package does the work for you (flight, hotel, car), so all that's left is getting to the park and letting the magic happen. The fine print: Air from Atlanta, D.C., New York or Philadelphia to Orlando; five nights at a Disney-area hotel, such as a Clarion Inn & Suites, with breakfast daily; six-day car rental; and fuel surcharges. Plus, a dinner/show for two at family-friendly Capone's. Mention TD-10. Why it's a deal: Comparable packages cost at least $100 more. When: Through Dec. 15. Other gateways: Chicago, Phoenix ($75); L.A. ($99). SS: $199. Contact: Travel Themes and Dreams, 877/870-7447, travelthemesanddreams.com. Sonoma County, Calif., from $300 Select from one of four wine-country hotels and get your third night free with any two-night stay. Participating hotels: Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza, Healdsburg Modern Cottages, Camellia Inn, and the Irish Rose Inn. The package also includes a wine-and-cheese basket upon arrival, all-day bike rentals for two, and a bicycle-friendly food lover's map created just for BT readers. Mention BUDGET TRAVEL. Why it's a deal: You save up to $575, depending on which hotel and room type you choose. When: Through June 30. SS: None. This price is per room. Contact: Healdsburg Lodging Coalition, 310/464-0896, healdsburglodgings.com. CARIBBEAN Curaçao, from $436 Five nights at the all-inclusive Breezes Curaçao Resort, Spa & Casino, a property on a 1,500-foot white-sand beach that's prime territory for snorkeling and scuba. Includes meals, drinks, and land and water sports. Plus, the resort has a no-tipping policy. Airfare not included. Book by Apr. 30 and mention BUDGET25. Why it's a deal: The price is 25 percent off Breezes' standard rates. When: May 1–Dec. 31. SS: $240. Contact: 877/273-3937, breezes.com/budget. CENTRAL AMERICA Belize, from $1,369 American Airlines flights from San Francisco and an eight-day tour with a three-day car rental, three nights in a deluxe cabana at Black Rock Lodge, round-trip air from Belize City to Placencia, and four nights at the Inn at Robert's Grove. Mention BT100. Why it's a deal: Airfare alone starts at $590, and the hotels total $603. When: Through June 30. Other gateways: New York ($20), D.C. ($30). SS: $690. Contact: Capricorn Leisure, 800/426-6544, capricornleisure.com. Costa Rica Take 25 percent off several Classic Journeys tour extensions in Costa Rica. Offerings include walking tours and family outings, such as a four-day trip to Tortuguero National Park. Mention BT10. Why it's a deal: Most extensions cost around $599; with the discount, BT readers pay $449. When: Select departures Apr. 4–Dec. 27. SS: $255. Contact: Classic Journeys, 800/200-3887, classicjourneys.com. A Five-Day Tour Through Classic Guatemala, from $449 Airfare from New York to Guatemala City and a guided five-day group trip (usually 10 to 15 people) with three nights lodging at Barceló Guatemala City and one night at Mayan Inn in Chichicastenango, breakfast daily, all transfers, excursions—like a day at Tikal and a trip to Lake Atitlán—and fuel surcharges. Book by Apr. 30 and mention BTGT100. Why it's a deal: Airfare alone starts at $255; this is $100 off the package rate. When: Select departures through Dec. 24. Other gateways: Miami ($26), Chicago ($78), Boston ($87), L.A. ($216), Houston ($278). SS: $171. Contact: Gate 1 Travel, 800/682-3333, gate1travel.com. EUROPE Move to Provence for Two Weeks, from $2,429 Round-trip airfare from New York and 14 nights in a private apartment or cottage. You get to choose from the company's 11 Provençal properties, such as a restored stone farmhouse in St.-Didier. Also includes a 15-day car rental and fuel surcharges. Mention BUDGET TRAVEL. Why it's a deal: Airfare alone is around $930. When: Apr. 2–May 5 ($2,429); May 19–June 16 ($2,839). Other gateways: Chicago ($190), L.A. ($317), Atlanta ($360). SS: $1,223. Contact: Untours, 888/868-6871, untours.com. ASIA Vietnam, from $1,799 A six-night tour of North and South Vietnam with Cathay Pacific flights from L.A. or San Francisco to Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, three nights each at Hanoi's Anise Hotel and at an Asian Ruby Hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, a daylong boat tour of the Mekong Delta, a day trip to Ha Long Bay, a flight within Vietnam, other transfers, and more. Mention EUVTNS10. Why it's a deal: Airfare alone starts at $863. The exclusive Ha Long Bay cruise has a $100 value. When: Select midweek departures through Nov. 30. Other gateways: Seattle ($140); New York ($200); Denver, Salt Lake City ($240). SS: $580. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. AFRICA Modern Comforts in Cairo With a Lake Nasser Cruise, from $2,299 This seven-day trip includes nonstop airfare from New York to Cairo, all flights within Egypt, three nights at Cairo's recently opened boutique Villa Belle Époque hotel, a three-night cruise on Lake Nasser in an upper-deck cabin, guided tours with an English-speaking Egyptologist, fuel surcharges, and more. Mention BTMAG273. Why it's a deal: Airfare and three nights at the Cairo hotel normally total at least $1,395, and this deal includes flights within Egypt and the three-night cruise. When: Apr. 7, 21 ($2,699); Apr. 14, 28 ($2,299); May 5, 12, 19, 26 ($2,999). SS: $499. Contact: FIT Tours, 800/248-3487, fittours.com. SOUTH PACIFIC Five Nights at Your Own Beach Bungalow in Fiji, from $2,189 Air Pacific flights from L.A. to the capital city of Suva, five nights in a private beach bungalow at Toberua Island Resort Fiji, all meals, and water sports (including snorkeling, kayaking, and low-tide golf), plus fuel surcharges and transfers to the resort's private island. Book by May 15 and mention TOBBT. Why it's a deal: Airfare alone starts at $1,084. You receive a bottle of sparkling wine, a fruit basket, and a massage at no extra cost. When: Apr. 1–June 30. SS: $480. Contact: All About Tours, 800/274-8687, allabouttours.com.