Sydney: Essentials

BODY-MIND-SPIRIT SHOP Body 333 Cordova Rd., 505/986-0362, bodyofsantafe.comA one-stop shop for the body and soul, with an organic, vegan, and raw-food café; serene spa; cool boutique; child-care center; and movement studio with classes in yoga, Pilates, and Nia Technique ($12-$15). Clients float out of the spa (acupuncture, massage, Rolfing, facials, and body-scrub treatments are priced from $35), then linger in the boutique browsing soothing music, insightful books, great exercise gear, and natural body products. Check online for schedules. PLAY Absolute Nirvana Spa, Tea Room & Gardens706 Faithway St., 505/983-7942Finding an exotic teahouse in the common room of a late-19th-century Victorian inn may throw off some guests. But sip fragrant green-tea leaves infused with jasmine blossoms and any perplexities vanish. Guests couldn't be more relaxed unless they also indulge in a massage and rose-petal bath at the adjacent Indonesian spa. ESCAPE Ten Thousand Waves 3451 Hyde Park Rd., 505/982-9304, tenthousandwaves.comDe-stress at this rustic Japanese mountain spa retreat minutes from Santa Fe. Soak in outdoor hot tubs (from $14 for a 55-minute soak), relax with massage and body treatments (from $40), and have a healthy snack by the koi pond. Not ready for reality? Check into one of 12 minimalist guest suites at the Houses of the Moon, nestled among the pine trees, and you may never want to descend from the mountain. Rates from $190 in low season, $210 in high season. ESCAPE Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs50 Los Baños Dr. in Ojo Caliente, one hour north of Santa Fe, 800/222-9162, 505/583-2233, ojocalientespa.comSoak away your cares in the serene outdoor hot springs at one of the country's oldest health resorts. Rustic cabins, a healthy restaurant, and stunning scenery combine for the ultimate peaceful getaway. Day access to the hot springs starts at $16. GREAT OUTDOORS SEE Randall Davey Audubon CenterEnd of Upper Canyon Rd., 505/983-4609, nm.audubon.orgIn the 1920s, well-known Santa Fe painter Randall Davey transformed an 1840s sawmill into his home and studio. Today, the 135-acre property belongs to the National Audubon Society, which maintains the hiking trails. Free guided bird walks depart at 8:30 a.m. Sat., and $5 house tours begin at 2 p.m. Mon. SHOP The Santa Fe Farmers Market505/983-4098, santafefarmersmarket.comRows of organic lamb and buffalo meat, cheese, jams, salsas, chiles, and New Mexico fruits and vegetables are sold by several hundred regional farmers. Body products, crafts, and live music crop up everywhere, too-it's a very happy scene. The outdoor market runs Tues.-Sat., 7 a.m.-noon, from April's third weekend through October in Railyard Park, where Cerrillos Road intersects Guadalupe Street. The winter market runs Sat., 9 a.m.-1 p.m., Nov.-early April, at El Museo Cultural (1615 Paseo de Peralta). PLAY New Wave Rafting Company1101 Cerrillos Rd., 800/984-1444, 505/984-1444 newwaverafting.comExplore the world-class white water of the Rio Grande with seasoned guides. River rafting trips run 5 to 16 miles through wild and scenic areas. From $43. Reservations required. ESCAPE Ski Santa Fe16 miles NE of Santa Fe on Hwy. 475 (Artist Rd./Hyde Park Rd.), 505/982-4429, skisantafe.comIn the Santa Fe National Forest, this 12,053-foot mountain has steep mogul trails for experts as well as easy runs with fantastic Santa Fe views. It's a great family destination with mountainside dining and a solid ski school. Snowboarders dig it as much as Nordic skiers. All-day lift tickets cost $49 adults, $35 children and seniors. UNDERSTANDING SANTA FE   Arroyo River or irrigation ditch   Farolitos Paper bags filled with sand that hold little glowing candles, traditionally displayed at Christmas   Órale qué pasa The local greeting, Spanish for "Hey, what's up?"; it's usually followed by "bro"   Sangre de Cristo Not a cocktail (that's sangria), but Spanish for "blood of Christ." Also the official name of the Santa Fe Mountains, foothills of the Rocky Mountains that turn dramatic shades of red at sunset   "Visualize Turn Signal Use" One of Santa Fe's many bumper-sticker slogans. This one reflects the opinion of local drivers that indicating a turn with a signal indicates a personality flaw

PUEBLOS SEE The Museum of Indian Art & Culture710 Camino Lejo, 505/476-1250, miaclab.orgA state museum, MIAC focuses on Native American art and culture. It houses an impressive permanent collection, and offers special exhibits, public lectures, and field trips. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, 16 and under free. SEE The Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian704 Camino Lejo, 800/607-4636, 505/982-4636 wheelwright.orgChanging exhibits of American Indian and traditional and contemporary art highlight the Southwest. The Case Trading Post museum shop hosts related lectures, artist receptions, and other events. Open Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; and Sun. 1-5 p.m. Free. SHOP Portal of the Palace of the Governors105 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5100In a long-standing tradition, Native American artists draw a daily lottery to determine who gets to sell their work-rain or shine-under the palace portal. Tourists and locals chat with artists and buy their silver and turquoise jewelry, elegant pottery, beaded items, and other coveted pieces. PLAY Camel Rock Casino10 minutes north of Santa Fe on U.S. Highway 84/285 800/462-2635, camelrockcasino.comThe casino circuit fronts major highways near Santa Fe, and the Pueblo-owned resorts have cheap buffet spreads, hotels, and venues for major acts such as comedian Jerry Seinfeld and the rock band Metallica. Owned by the Tesuque Pueblo tribe, this cavernous casino has table games, more than 700 slots, bingo, and a $5 southwestern buffet on Saturdays. This is a place to hole up and play the numbers. ESCAPE Pueblo dances505/843-7270, indianpueblo.orgColorful and mesmerizing with rhythmic drumming and chanting, pueblo dances are centered on seasonal cycles and spiritual beliefs tied to nature. Many of New Mexico's 19 pueblos open their dances to the public. Respectful behavior is mandatory, so don't do any of the following: talk during the dance, applaud once it's over, assume you can take photographs, or walk into people's houses or sacred sites on the pueblo. Performances depend on the position of the moon, so call ahead for schedules. SPANISH COLONIAL SEE Museum of Spanish Colonial Art750 Camino Lejo, 505/982-2226, spanishcolonial.orgInside an early-20th-century Spanish Colonial-style building designed by famed Santa Fe architect John Gaw Meem, this museum documents the fabulous art and rich culture of the Spanish colonies that thrived in New Mexico and elsewhere. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $6, New Mexico residents $3, 17 and under free. SHOP Spanish Market 505/982-2226, spanishmarket.orgHispanic artists working with Spanish Colonial traditions sell their work twice a year in festival-style markets featuring demonstrations, live music, and regional food. The art reflects the religious beliefs of the 16th-century Spanish settlers. Find the summer market on the Santa Fe Plaza the first full weekend in July, and the winter market on the first full weekend in December at the Sweeney Convention Center (201 W. Marcy St.) Free. PLAY Maria Benitez Cabaret at the Radisson Santa Fe750 N. Saint Francis Dr., 800/982-9198, 505/992-5800Famed flamenco dancer Maria Benitez's Teatro Flamenco troupe takes the summer stage at the romantic cabaret that bears her name. Wrought-iron rails, faux ivy, soft candlelight, and fiery guitarists contribute to the Old Spanish atmosphere. Call for schedule and ticket info. ESCAPE El Rancho de las Golondrinas15 miles south of Santa Fe, Exit 276 off Interstate 25 334 Los Pinos Rd., 505/471-2261, golondrinas.orgA living-history museum devoted to the heritage and culture of Spanish Colonial New Mexico, with more than 30 historic buildings. Costumed docents interpret life in early New Mexico, and special events and festivals celebrate old traditions that still thrive in the northern part of the state. Keep an eye out for the golondrinas, or swallows. Open June-Oct., Wed.-Sun., 10 a.m.-4 p.m. $5.

VISUAL ARTS SEE Museum of Fine Arts 107 W. Palace Ave., 505/476-5072, mfasantafe.orgA state museum that features some of the best modern and contemporary art in New Mexico, as well as top-notch touring exhibits. The 1917 multi-story adobe is itself a work of art, reflecting Pueblo architecture as well as ancient Franciscan mission churches. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, New Mexico residents $5, 16 and under free; Fri. 5-8 p.m. free. SEE Museum of International Folk Art 706 Camino Lejo on Museum Hill, 505/476-1200, moifa.orgWorld's largest collection of folk art contains colorful toys, textiles, totems, and other prized pieces from around the globe. This state museum's busy schedule includes excellent exhibits and fine educational programs. Open Tues.-Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m. $7, New Mexico residents $5, 16 and under free. SEE Canyon RoadJoin the throngs of serious and amateur art aficionados at the traditional Friday-evening openings hosted by galleries lining Canyon Road, the famous one-mile stretch of art from around the world. Uneven pavement and sidewalks that simply disappear make walking an exercise, so leave the heels at home. SEE Baca StreetAn emerging alternative art scene on the city's southwest side that pulses with activity. Contemporary glassblowers, Celtic jewelers, painters, and sculptors surround Box Gallery (916 Baca St., 505/989-4897), which showcases contemporary New Mexico artists. The hip eatery, Counter Culture Cafe, feeds them all. SEE Shidoni Foundry in TesuqueBishop's Lodge Rd., five miles north of Santa Fe Plaza 505/988-8001, shidoni.comA leading bronze foundry, Shidoni takes its name from a Navajo greeting. Aptly, visitors are welcomed to galleries with work by eminent artists. Bring a picnic and walk through towering works of wonder in the outdoor sculpture garden. Watching molten bronze heated to 200 degrees and poured into ceramic molds will inspire you to quit your day job and become an artiste. Call ahead for pour times. LITERARY AND PERFORMING ARTS SEE Lensic Performing Arts Center 211 W. San Francisco St., 505/988-7050 (ticket info) 505/988-1234, lensic.comA 1931 vaudeville and film palace built in faux Moorish and Spanish Renaissance architectural styles and recently renovated into a high-tech venue. The Lensic hums with local and international theater, as well as music, dance, film, and literary events. Schedule and tickets available online. SEE Santa Fe Playhouse142 E. DeVargas St., 505/988-4262, santafeplayhouse.orgSanta Fe's historic community theater presents original and classic productions, as well as staged readings, dance performances, and more. A great venue for viewing local talent. From "pay what you wish" Sunday matinees to $20. SEE Nicholas Potter Bookseller 211 E. Palace Ave., 505/983-5434The city's oldest used-book shop offers a fine collection of compelling books, including fascinating titles about the Southwest. SEE Collected Works Bookstore 208B W. San Francisco St., 505/988-4226, collectedworksbookstore.comSanta Fe's community bookstore also hosts book signings with literary lions. Employees are impressively well read. SEE La Cantina at La Casa Sena 125 E. Palace Ave., 505/988-9232, lacasasena.comAt this casual bar, which is part of an established Santa Fe restaurant housed in a historic hacienda, servers don theatrical finery and croon Broadway and jazz standards. The audience has a ball. Make a request and you might be serenaded as you eat nachos and nurse a margarita. SEE The Santa Fe OperaWest side of U.S. Hwy. 84/285, seven miles north of Santa Fe 800/280-4654, 505/986-5900, santafeopera.orgHear impeccable highbrow music in the high desert. You can't miss the 2,128-seat opera house's open-air roof, flung against the sky like a giant white ship sailing turquoise seas. Opening-night tailgaters in tuxes and gowns, or jeans and cowboy hats, have established a long-standing summer ritual in the parking lot-requiring fine linens, polished silver, and haute cuisine. Tickets from $24. Check online for schedule.

EAT 315 315 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505/986-9190, 315santafe.comA perennially popular French bistro that serves superb Provençal-inspired fare from white wine-soaked mussels with club fries to duck breast with dried cherries. Book a table or join the serious oenophiles rubbing elbows and bragging about bouquets at the cozy wine bar. EAT Andiamo! 322 Garfield St., 505/995-9595, andiamoonline.comA little Italian spot that rarely misses. Aptly named for the Italian word that translates as "Let's go," its elegant small dining rooms are awash in color and soft light. Savor the crispy polenta with rosemary and gorgonzola, then try the penne with spicy lamb sausage. Dinner only. EAT Bobcat Bite Restaurant420 Old Las Vegas Hwy., 505/983-5319, bobcatbite.comAlthough the 1950s-style roadhouse sits on the outskirts of town, its green chile cheeseburgers are world-famous, old-fashioned, and just plain great. The crispy french fries ain't bad, either. While you're waiting for a coveted table or countertop seat at lunch or dinner, look for the bobcats-They're everywhere. Open Wed.-Sat. EAT Cafe Pasqual's121 Don Gaspar Ave., 800/722-7672, 505/983-9340 pasquals.comThis festive restaurant with bright Oaxacan paper cutouts and colorful murals looks as good as it tastes. Try the fried yellow-and-blue cornmeal mush at breakfast and the organic chicken mole enchiladas at dinner. EAT Counter Culture Cafe 930 Baca St., 505/995-1105Locals love this hip, unpretentious café housed in a former warehouse. Kick off the morning with coffee and sour cream coffee cake, then return at lunch for silky salmon-coconut Thai soup or Vietnamese spring rolls and cold sesame noodles. Heck, even the burgers with haystack fries are a hit. Breakfast and lunch only. EAT Mu Du Noodles 1494 Cerrillos Rd., 505/983-1411, mudunoodles.comA sweet, authentic noodle house where regulars know there's truth to the ancient motto "long noodles, long life." At the end of a busy day, there's nothing like Mu's Malaysian laksa, pad thai, or spicy beef jantaboon enjoyed in the colorful dining rooms or on the outdoor garden patio. Dinner only. Closed Sun. EAT The Plaza Restaurant 54 Lincoln Ave., 505/982-1664Regulars alternate between New Mexico fare like cashew mole enchiladas and Greek specialties such as gyros. The venerated diner opened in 1918 in the heart of the Plaza. Affordable and affable, it's hopping at breakfast, lunch, and dinner. EAT La Choza 905 Alarid St., 505/982-0909Reliably good New Mexican chili ladled over authentic enchiladas, tamales, carne adovada, and other staples of the local cuisine. Get the combo plate and try all three. The two dining rooms, brightly painted with flowers, and the charming outdoor patio provide ideal settings for conversation over lunch or dinner. Closed Sun. SPLURGE Geronimo 724 Canyon Rd., 505/982-1500, geronimorestaurant.comA Santa Fe culinary star that draws diners seeking sophisticated food. Geronimo Lopez, whose spirit reportedly still hangs around, built the handsome Territorial house in 1756. Perhaps he pines for divine dishes that fuse flavors from around the world, like the mesquite-grilled filet mignon with country ham or the charred salmon with shrimp and smoked jalapeño risotto. Open for lunch, dinner, and Sun. brunch. Closed Mon. lunch. DRINK Cowgirl Hall of Fame 319 S. Guadalupe St., 505/982-2565In good weather, the patio at this Western-themed watering hole and restaurant resembles a busy beach in high summer, save for the Stetsons. Live music mingles with the voices of locals and tourists swapping stories and sipping Santa Fe-brewed beers and frozen margaritas. Happy hours and specials include $1 Pabst Blue Ribbon Night on Tues. DRINK El Farol 808 Canyon Rd., 505/983-9912A long-standing warm-weather Santa Fe tradition involves a salty margarita and tapas under the portal at El Farol, the oldest bar in Santa Fe. Tired of fresh air? Step into historic adobe rooms, where flamenco dancers shake the floor, guitarists strum Latin music, and old-timers tap their feet. DRINK The Pink Adobe's Dragon Room Bar406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 505/983-7712, thepinkadobe.comA world-famous bar that has showcased true Santa Fe style for decades. Artists, movie stars, government workers, well-heeled tourists, jaded locals, and other regulars toss back Silver Coin and Rosalita margaritas, while listening to live music. A Chinese elm that grows through the roof of the bar has been a quiet witness to the rowdy scene that's been going strong since artist Rosalea Murphy founded the Pink Adobe in 1944.