The Best Meals Are Often the Simplest Ones

By Nina Willdorf
May 4, 2009
Lunchtime in Saigon
Courtesy Nina Willdorf

I'm the kind of traveler who plots out an entire day—an entire destination—around a sandwich. In this photo, I was having one of those meals you write home about, the quintessential Vietnamese banh mi at Nhu Lan Bakery in Ho Chi Minh City (50 Ham Nghi, District 1, 011-84/838-292-970, nhulanfood.com, about $1). As you can see, the sandwich, filled with Vietnamese ham, pâté, and pickled carrots and daikon, really doesn't look so special. But I find that the best meals while traveling are often the simplest ones. Just eat like the locals do and you'll learn more about a country than you would through any guidebook. This lunch wasn't just about the sandwich. It was about the folks at the next table, the colorful plates, and the ceremony of service—or lack thereof. I can still hear the scooters buzzing by and anticipate the rich pâté about to ooze out. I also remember the feeling of sitting on a flimsy plastic stool. Sometimes, the quest for the authentic can be a bit uncomfortable—but I wouldn't have had it any other way.

In our feature "Destination Food," we point the way to 57 equally extraordinary meals—recommended by everyone from Jacques Pépin to Masaharu Morimoto—that will sometimes push you out of your comfort zone. You might have a surly waiter, you might get lost trying to find the place....But the payoff? Tastes of authenticity in dozens of destinations around the world. To kick off this feature, we're also launching our first-ever Budget Travel Restaurant Month. Throughout June, print out a "meal ticket" good for discounts and free extras at some of the country's most innovative restaurants, owned by our contributing chefs. Because, ultimately, our goal at BT isn't just to tell you about cool things to do. We want to help you get out and do them.

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Secret Restaurants of Celebrity Foodies

WEST COAST & HAWAII Marnee Thai San Francisco The Miang Kum appetizer is a marveling concoction of ginger, dried shrimp, dried coconut, peanuts, and chopped lime that you wrap in spinach leaves with a dab of special sauce (1243 9th Ave., 415/731-9999, Miang Kum $7.50). —Marion Nestle Rosso Pizzeria + Wine Bar Santa Rosa, Calif. This is a sweet little place that's deeply local. Get the white pizza! (Creekside Center, 53 Montgomery Dr., 707/544-3221, from $12). —Cindy Pawlcyn Giusti's Walnut Grove, Calif. When it's nice out, customers arrive at this riverside bar and restaurant by boat. The fried chicken has an almost flaky coating (14743 Walnut Grove–Thornton Rd., 916/776-1808, dinner from $13.50). —Darrell Corti In-N-Out Burger Various locations There's so much pressure to follow the what's-new trend in burgers; this place holds its ground (229 locations in the West, from $1.50). —Thomas Keller Side Street Inn Honolulu Side Street Inn has comfort food like pork chops and ribs with a passion-fruit glaze. Drink a Kona Longboard beer and be happy (1225 Hopaka St., 808/591-0253, entrées from $13). —Ming Tsai SOUTH & SOUTHWEST Pizzeria Bianco Phoenix The way they raise their dough, the fire...A good pizza is minimalist, and they do it right (623 E. Adams St., 602/258-8300, pizza from $11). —Lidia Bastianich Bon Ton Cafe New Orleans Locals gravitate to the soulful cooking. They have dishes you don't find in most of the haute Creole restaurants, such as étouffées, proper Cajun-style bisques, and slow-cooked one-pot meals (401 Magazine St., 504/524-3386, entrées from $16). —John Besh Tree House Pastry Shop and Café Santa Fe, N.M. Everything they serve here is just sparkling fresh. The deep-dish quiches are something to dig into, and not at all stodgy (1600 Lena St., 505/474-5543, quiches from $13). —Deborah Madison The Pit Raleigh, N.C. Time—and only time—gets good 'cue done right, so they start the lunch barbecue the night before. My mouth waters for the triple-meat combo (328 W. Davie St., 919/890-4500, combos from $10). —Patrick Ford Scott's BBQ Hemingway, S.C. They cook whole hogs over open pits, slather on sauce with long-handled mops, and ferry the hogs to the cutting block on what looks like an old hospital gurney (27-34 Hemingway Hwy., 843/558-0134, sandwiches from $4). —John T. Edge MIDWEST Zingerman's Delicatessen Ann Arbor, Mich. Nate's Nosh sandwich (chicken liver, corned beef, coleslaw, Swiss cheese, and Russian dressing on a roll) isn't on the menu anymore, but they'll make any of the old sandwiches upon request, and this one is a must (422 Detroit St., 734/663-3354, sandwiches from $6.50). —Gabrielle Hamilton Portland Malt Shoppe Duluth I appreciate places that know they're the best but are still nice. You find that kind of friendly cockiness at this art deco shack set on Lake Superior. I've never had a better malt in my life (716 E. Superior St., portlandmaltshoppe.com, open summers, malts from $6). —Danny Meyer O'Connell's Pub St. Louis When your cheeseburger arrives, it just blows your mind. The toasted bun almost melts into the meat: They're really one. I have mine with a draft beer, fries, and onion rings (4652 Shaw Blvd., 314/773-6600, burgers from $5.25). —Danny Meyer NORTHEAST The Clam Castle Madison, Conn. When I'm home in the summertime, we go for the lobster rolls. My wife always gets the classic cold roll with celery, mayonnaise, and herbs; I order mine warm (1324 Boston Post Rd., 203/245-4911, open summers, lobster roll $13). —Jacques Pépin L.A. Burdick Chocolate Cambridge, Mass. Anytime I'm in Boston, I come here to buy chocolate-covered ginger. The tanginess of the ginger is perfectly balanced by the chocolate (52-D Brattle St., 617/491-4340, ginger chocolate $10 per quarter pound). —Marion Nestle Oleana Cambridge, Mass. I always insist that my out-of-town friends try chef Ana Sortun's Turkish-themed Eastern Mediterranean food, much of it scented with peppers and spices that she imports herself (134 Hampshire St., 617/661-0505, entrées from $15). —Corby Kummer Sapporo Ramen Cambridge, Mass. They make a beautiful broth with chicken, pork, and beef bones, and mirepoix, miso, and apple (1815 Mass. Ave., 617/876-4805, ramen from $7.75). —Ming Tsai The Bite Martha's Vineyard, Mass. The fried clams aren't cheap, but they're more than worth it if you combine eating them with a sunset on Menemsha Beach (29 Basin Rd., 508/645-9239, open summers, fried clams from $13). PHOTOS 1 of 2 —Michael Pollan Satay Malaysian Cuisine Hoboken, N.J. My pick is the whole striped bass coated in spices and wrapped in lotus leaves, with a side of delicate coconut rice (99 Washington St., 201/386-8688, entrées from $13). —Danilo Zecchin Fleisher's Kingston, N.Y. All the meat at this Hudson Valley butcher shop is local, natural, and delicious. The dry-aged steaks are miraculous—as are the sausages—but what brings me here is the Berkshire pork chops (307 Wall St., 845/338-6666, meat from $3.50 per pound). —Julie Powell The Country Inn Krumville, N.Y. They serve Fleisher's meat, plus more than 500 varieties of beer. It's comfortable, occasionally raucous, and always friendly (1380 County Rd. 2, 845/657-8956, entrées from $9). —Julie Powell Candle 79 New York City My favorite vegan restaurant in the U.S.—I recommend the grilled seitan (wheat gluten) chimichurri appetizer with a citrus-herb marinade (154 E. 79th St., 212/537-7179, appetizers from $8). —John Mackey Chiyono New York City The pork belly is amazingly good because it's properly braised and has lots of good fat. It's served in a clean broth with a thumb-smear of Japanese mustard on the side of the bowl (328 E. 6th St., 212/673-3984, entrées from $9.25). —Gabrielle Hamilton Congee Village New York City You won't find better five-buck noodles anywhere in the city; try the soy-sauce chow mein (100 Allen St., 212/941-1818, noodles from $4.25). —David Chang El Quinto Pino New York City There's a lady bartender with serious attitude who brings out small dishes and Spanish wines. I always have the pringá sandwich: slow-cooked pork with a hint of morcilla, a type of blood sausage (401 W. 24th St., 212/206-6900, tapas from $3). —David Tanis Otafuku New York City This tiny stall in the East Village serves traditional Japanese street food like okonomiyaki, a savory flour pancake with cabbage and seafood, topped with a sweet sauce, and yakisoba, pan-fried noodles with vegetables and meat (236 E. 9th St., 212/353-8503, from $5). —Masaharu Morimoto Russ & Daughters New York City The bialy with smoked salmon and cream cheese is so delicious, I'd even triple-park to get one (179 E. Houston St., 212/475-4880, sandwiches from $5.50). —Eli Zabar Tuck Shop New York City Tuck Shop is the best place for Australian pies. I take my lamb shepherd's pie with an ice-cold Coopers ale (68 E. 1st St., 212/979-5200, pies from $5). —April Bloomfield Vietnam Restaurant Philadelphia I bring my kitchen staff over for the beef-stuffed grape leaves on the B.B.Q. Platter (221 N. 11th St., 215/592-1163, entrées from $9). —Masaharu Morimoto Big Mama's House of Soul Pittsburgh Big Mama (Brenda Franklin) is known for her collard greens, ribs, and peach cobbler. She can also sing—sometimes she belts it out while she's working! (1603 Penn Ave., 412/471-2910, entrées from $8.50). —Lidia Bastianich MEXICO La Cueva del Chango Playa del Carmen This place is stunning: an open hut bordered by beautiful gardens. For breakfast, they serve fresh fruit juices, like guava and kiwi, and home-baked breads (38th St. near 5th Ave., 011-52/984-147-0271, breakfast from $3). PHOTOS 1 of 3 —Jacques Pépin EUROPE Gasthof Stanglwirt Going, Austria You've probably never had dinner with a cow before, at least not as you do at this restaurant. The dining room is separated from the stable by a glass wall, so while you dine, you and the 25 dairy cows eye each other (Kaiserweg 1, A-6353, 011-43/5358-2000, entrées from $15.75). —Maximilian Riedel Le Florida Castéra Verduzan, France The chef uses local game and mushrooms. He roasts plump duck in the fireplace and makes a wonderful wood-pigeon stew (ave. C. Bordenave, 011-33/5-62-68-13-22, entrées from $25). —Ariane Daguin La Voûte Chez Léa Lyon, France You can find classic Lyonnais dishes, such as pike dumplings and crayfish. I always go for a Beaujolais wine pairing (11 pl. Antonin Gourju, 011-33/4-78-42-01-33, entrées from $19.50). —Jacques Pépin Alain Assaud St.-Rémy-de-Provence, France Alain comes from an incredible pedigree, and he's there cooking every night. The saffron-steeped fish soup is served with garlicky croutons and a proper rouille—a sauce with garlic, cayenne, bread crumbs, and olive oil (13 blvd. Marceau, 011-33/4-90-92-37-11, soup $17). —John Besh La Subida Cormons, Italy The menu perfectly reflects the foods that the owners forage for: nettles, wild leeks, asparagus, chamomile, fennel, and berries (Località Monte 22, 011-39/0481-60531, entrées from $15.75). —Lidia Bastianich Trattoria Sostanza Florence, Italy I adore the artichoke tortino (pie), the rigatoni with beef ragù, and the chicken that's pan-fried in butter—it sounds so simple but has amazing flavor (via Porcellana 25r, 011-39/055-212-691, entrées from $11.75). —Alessia Antinori La Frasca Lauzacco, Italy I stop at La Frasca, like the truckers do, and get a glass of tocai, a dry white from the neighboring vineyards (viale Grado 10, 011-39/043-267-5150, entrées from $9.25). —Lidia Bastianich Ristorante La Pineta Marina di Bibbona, Italy Luciano Zazzeri, the chef and owner, has his own boat, and his uncle and cousin take it out to catch fish for the restaurant. The spaghetti alle vongole (clams) is out of this world (via dei Cavalleggeri Nord 27, 011-39/058-660-0016, pasta from $24). —Alessia Antinori Trattoria Masuelli San Marco Milan, Italy The mother, the father, and the son all help out, and the dishes are so homey. Don't miss the especially delicious pork-and-cabbage stew (viale Umbria 80, 011-39/02-5518-4138, entrées from $19.50). —Darrell Corti Il Vigneto Sicily, Italy This place is owned by two brothers, Francesco and Alessandro Bursi. It doesn't get more local than the tagliatelle con fave verdi, pasta with broad beans, ricotta, and wild fennel (Contrada Gurra di Mare, 011-39/0925-71732, tagliatelle $11.75). —Danilo Zecchin Trattoria da Giovanni Trieste, Italy Stand at the counter next to a mortadella as big as a torpedo and watch Bruno Vesnaver grate horseradish onto slices of prosciutto di Praga that have been baked in a dough crust (via S. Lazzaro 14, 011-39/040-639-396, entrées from $7.75). —Lidia Bastianich Cantina do Mori Venice, Italy Go in late morning for a prosciutto sandwich with Prosecco, in the afternoon for spicy sausage with a glass of Brunello, or in the evening for salt cod and a glass of valpolicella (San Polo 429, 011-39/041-522-5401, sandwiches from $4.50). —David Tanis The Pancake Bakery Amsterdam, The Netherlands The top spot for pannenkoek, Holland's signature pancake, best with bacon, cheese, and mushroom (Prinsengracht 191, 011-31/20-625-1333, pannenkoek from $7.25). —Danilo Zecchin Çiya Kebap 2 Istanbul, Turkey The Turkish chef here makes a really flavorful lamb, eggplant, and tomato stew; it's the kind of authentic, simple food that goes right to your soul (Caferaga Mah., Güneslibahçe Sk., No. 44, 011-90/216-418-5115, entrées from $6). —Cindy Pawlcyn Monmouth Coffee Company London, U.K. They have an extensive selection of drip coffees from all around the world, and they make them to order. I get a cup with an espresso macchiato chaser (27 Monmouth St., 011-44/207-379-3516, macchiato $1.75). —Danny Meyer Saf Restaurant & Bar London, U.K. Their organic bar serves such unique botanical cocktails, like a spiced-apricot martini (152-154 Curtain Rd., 011-44/207-613-0007, from $7.75). —John Mackey ASIA Paris Bakery Mumbai, India One of Mumbai's best-kept secrets. I go for kaju makrooms (cashew and cardamom wafers) and ginger biscuits (278 Our Lady of Dolours Church Ln., 011-91/22-2208-6619, biscuits from $4). —Niloufer Ichaporia King Ton Ton Tokyo, Japan Customers at this yaki_tori pub sit on rickety stools as they drink and munch. Push yourself and try some of the chicken parts, such as heart, liver, or skin (2-1-10 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, 011-81/3-3508-9454, dinner from $16.50). PHOTOS 1 of 2 —Masaharu Morimoto

One-Tank Escapes for 7 Cities

Long Beach Island, N.J. 100 miles from New York City Retro surf towns with pastel beach houses and low-lying diners are strung along a broad central boulevard on Long Beach Island, a nearly 20-mile-long barrier isle off the southern Jersey Shore. HIGHLIGHTS At Tiki Taco in Beach Haven, beef or chicken tacos come with salsas given names like "riptide red" (609/492-2328, tikitaco.com). Brave the Sea Dragon, a swinging ship at Fantasy Island, a vintage amusement park in Beach Haven that has a century-old carousel (609/492-4000, fantasyislandpark.com). OVERNIGHT OPTION Magnolia House in Beach Haven is on of LBI's oldest Victorian-style inns. It has 12 guest rooms and is just a block from the beach. (609/492-2226, magnoliahouselbi.com, from $150 including breakfast).  DRIVING TIP If the Garden State Parkway jams, exit on Highway 9 in Toms River and then head south 20 miles to Route 72, which connects with the causeway. EN ROUTE A 24-foot, 200-pound surfboard marks the entrance to the Ron Jon Surf Shop in Ship Bottom, where you can snap photos and rent gear (609/494-8844, ronjons.com). —Sara Morrow Tyler, Tex. 98 miles from Dallas Antebellum mansions from the 1800s line the brick streets of Tyler, an old railroad town in the swath of east Texas known for its piney woods—and its tasty barbecue. HIGHLIGHTS Tyler is the "Rose Capital of America," and at the 14-acre Municipal Rose Garden there are nearly 40,000 bushes showcasing 500 distinct varieties, including lines dating back to 1867 (903/531-1213, cityoftyler.org, free). At the 50-plus-year-old Stanley's Famous Pit Bar-B-Q, the over-the-top Brother-in-law sandwich features a grilled hot link with pulled pork and cheese on a toasted bun (903/593-0311, stanleyspitbbq.com, entrées from $6.99). Local musicians play old country music favorites at The Gladewater Saturday Night Opry, a barnlike dance hall that comes alive on weekends (903/845-3600, thegladewateropry.com, $10). OVERNIGHT OPTION On Tyler's outskirts, Kiepersol Estates is a winery and inn run by South African expat Pierre de Wet and his daughter Marnelle de Wet Durrett; it serves the area's best filet mignon (903/894-3300, kiepersol.com, from $195). DRIVING TIP Skip Interstate 20 in favor of the more scenic Highway 80, which travels through the tiny 19th-century town of Mineola. EN ROUTE Kitchens, a century-old hardware store and deli in Mineola, sells wrenches and blackberry cobbler (903/569-2664). —Geraldine Campbell Whidbey Island, Wash. 25 miles from Seattle A zigzagging isle on the northern edge of Washington's Puget Sound, the 45-mile-long Whidbey Island is a rural patchwork of pine forests and small family farms, some of which have been passed down from one generation to the next since the 1850s. HIGHLIGHTS Overlooking Penn Cove in Coupeville, the island's main settlement, brothers Doug, Jerry, and Tom Kroon (along with their niece, Marcia Johnson) run Knead & Feed, a wood-paneled bakery-café known for its shrimp bisque and fresh slices of pie (360/678-5431, kneadandfeed.com). A few doors down, at Mosquito Fleet Chili, husband-and-wife owners Chris and Rita Tomayko make spicy chili using local beef (360/678-2900). The island's agricultural traditions are protected within the borders of the 17,500-acre Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve, where local farmers continue to till the rich soil (360/678-6084, nps.gov/ebla). The park's eastern shore has open views of the Olympic Mountains to the south. For dinner at Prima Bistro, nibble on fresh fish frites served with red-onion slaw, fries, and caper remoulade while overlooking beautiful Saratoga passage. (360/221-4060 primabistro.com, entrées from $12.50). OVERNIGHT OPTION Original log walls, beamed ceilings, and stone fireplaces adorn the 102-year-old Captain Whidbey Inn (360/678-4097, captainwhidbey.com, from $94). Choose from among the 12 rooms in the main house (all with shared bath), one of 4 one-bedroom cabins, or 13 lagoon rooms scattered around the grounds—many with views of the water. DRIVING TIP It's a 30-minute ferry ride from the dockside town of Mukilteo to the island. Traffic is heavy on Fridays, so leave in the morning or, better yet, linger over dinner in Seattle. The ferries run until 1 a.m. EN ROUTE Next to the dock on the mainland, Ivar's Mukilteo Landing draws locals with its extensive wine list and views of Possession Sound (425/742-6180, ivars.net).  —Kimberly Brown Seely Lake Rabun, Ga. 104 miles from Atlanta Circled by blooming dogwoods, Lake Rabun sits on the southern slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains, where Georgia and the Carolinas meet. HIGHLIGHTS Rent a canoe from Rabun BoatWorks (706/982-0402, rabunboatworks.net, half day $40) or raft the Chattooga River with Nantahala Outdoor Center (888/905-7238, noc.com, from $90). At Tallulah Gorge State Park, sign up for a night trek across the wooden suspension bridge (706/754-7981, gastateparks.org, $5). OVERNIGHT OPTION A 1922 cedar lodge, the spruced-up Lake Rabun Hotel has a restaurant that serves mountain trout (800/398-5134, lakerabunhotel.com, from $119). DRIVING TIP Beyond the suburbs, as the mountains come into view, look for white-tailed deer off the road. EN ROUTE For a hearty fried-chicken lunch, head to Shirley's Solé Food Café in Toccoa, 25 miles to the south (706/297-7739).  —Marcia Langhenry Joshua Tree, Calif. 140 miles from Los Angeles Beyond the eastern edge of the Los Angeles metro area's seemingly endless sprawl is Joshua Tree National Park, where the Mojave, Sonoran, and Colorado deserts merge into a terra-cotta landscape studded by the area's spindly namesake trees (nps.gov/jotr, seven-day pass $15 per car). HIGHLIGHTS Of the three gates that lead into the vast 800,000-acre national park, the one in the town of Joshua Tree, about 25 miles south of Route 62, gives you the most convenient access to the best sights. Here, the road winds through a rugged terrain composed of Joshua trees and granite towers. The park has more than 800 species of plants—including fan palms, mesquites, and creosotes—but one of the most remarkable is the teddy-bear cholla, so called for its coat of thin white needles that resemble fur. Walk the sandy quarter-mile trail through the Cholla Cactus Garden, just off the main road, and you'll see hundreds of these glistening plants stretching to the horizon. About 30 miles to the west is Keys View, a 5,100-foot bluff where you can take in the Santa Rosa Mountains and, on a very clear day, see all the way to Mexico. To go off-road, sign up with Desert Adventures for a three-hour Jeep trip into the backcountry during sunset, with stops for stargazing, medicinal plant hunting, and coyote tracking (888/440-5337, red-jeep.com, from $125). OVERNIGHT OPTION Sagewater Spa in Desert Hot Springs, about 30 minutes from Joshua Tree, has the cure for an aching tailbone: clear mineral pools heated to 90 degrees. The simple modernist inn also has seven boxy, whitewashed rooms equipped with kitchenettes. Rhoni Epstein and Cristina Pestana, from Boston and Brazil, respectively, run the spa and often welcome guests with caipirinhas, a light Brazilian cheese bread called pão de queijo, and fresh-baked coffee cake from a recipe that Epstein inherited from her grandmother (760/220-1554, sagewaterspa.com, two-night minimum, rooms from $175). DRIVING TIPS Much of the ride from L.A. consists of suburbs and traffic and various combinations thereof. Get out of town by noon for maximum rush-hour avoidance. EN ROUTE Grab a classic date shake at Hadley Fruit Orchards, a shop in Cabazon that's run by the Morongo Indians 951/849-5255, hadleyfruitorchards.com, from $3.50).  —Adam Graham Plum Island, Mass. 42 miles from Boston Wooden walkways wind through protected dunes, tidal flats, and marshlands on Plum Island, an 11-mile-long barrier island off the northern coast of Massachusetts that sits at the mouth of the Merrimack River. HIGHLIGHTS A variety of shorebirds make their summer homes at the Parker River National Wildlife Refuge (978/465-5733, parkerriver.fws.gov). Drive or bike the six-and-a-half-mile road through the park, or walk the wooden, one-and-a-half-mile Hellcat Interpretive Trail. Signs identify some of the more than 350 species of birds that inhabit the area, such as yellow-capped bobolinks and the bufflehead duck, in addition to plants like the beach plum, from which the island gets its name. Local lobsterman Bob Hartigan is the man behind Bob Lobster (978/465-7100, boblobster.com). Pick up one of his signature lobster rolls and then take a seat at a table overlooking the river to scan the sky for birds. It's BYOB—beer and binoculars. OVERNIGHT OPTION A number of historic clapboard B&Bs, some dating back to the colonial era, line Newburyport's redbrick lanes; one of the best is the 19th-century Essex Street Inn, which has 37 rooms, many with cherry four-poster beds (7 Essex St., 978/465-3148, essexstreetinn.com, from $135). DRIVING TIPS Avoid Interstate 95 in favor of Route 1A, which takes on a vintage New England vibe after making its way through the busy seacoast cities of Revere and Salem. EN ROUTE Make a seafood stop in Ipswich, 30 miles south of the island, at the Clam Box, known for its building, which resembles a takeout container (ipswichma.com/clambox, 978/356-9707). —Meg Lukens Noonan Great River Road, Mo. 88 miles from St. Louis On the western banks of the Mississippi River, Highway 79—one of several scenic byways known collectively as the Great River Road—is dotted with old steamboat towns that attract artisans, bird-watchers, and lovers of all things Mark Twain. HIGHLIGHTS Find rustic rockers made of durable Missouri willow at The Bent Tree Gallery in Clarksville (thebenttree.com/clarksville, 660/425-2131). The Eagle's Nest Bistro in the town of Louisiana pairs French cuisine with hearty local vintages from its winery (theeaglesnest-louisiana.com, 573/754-9888, entrées from $12.50). In Hannibal, upriver, the Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum displays the signature white jacket that belonged to Huck Finn's creator (573/221-9010, marktwainmuseum.org, $9). Down the street, Twain-happy tourists linger over coffee at Java Jive, run by local potter Steve Ayers (573/221-1017, ayerspottery.com). OVERNIGHT OPTION Cedarcrest Manor, in Clarksville, is a restored 1840s mansion with antique-filled rooms, some of which overlook the river (573/242-3310, overlookfarmmo.com/accommodations/cedarcrestmanor, from $150). DRIVING TIPS Riding through the clogged St. Louis suburbs is a necessary evil; head out in mid-morning when traffic ebbs. EN ROUTE Between the towns of Louisiana and Hannibal, see wading birds ply the marshes at the Ted Shanks Conservation Area (573/754-6171)  —Rachel Young   SEE MORE POPULAR CONTENT: The 7 Most Common Gas Guzzling Mistakes 25 Most Photographed Places on Earth Is it Cheaper to Fly or to Drive? 10 Beach Products You Never Knew You Needed 12 Most Beautiful Lakes

Hot Stuff: Gear for Summer

Bocce to go With the Sanuk Sof-Bocce set, Hacky Sack-like balls sub for the usual wooden clunkers, so you can play the old-school Italian game anywhere. wetsandsurfshop.com, $30. Collapsible grill Like a laptop that cooks six burgers at a time, Direct Designs' stainless-steel Notebook Portable Grill folds into a one-inch tablet. aplusrstore.com, $68. Waterproof camcorder Sanyo's Xacti E2 lets you shoot an hourlong movie five feet underwater. Then, download your epic to a video-enabled iPod. Doubles as an eight-megapixel digital camera, in or out of the water. us.sanyo.com, $250. Perfect flops Okabashi's waterproof Flip-Flops are no ordinary beach thongs. They come with a two-year warranty and an endorsement from the American Chiropractic Association for superior foot support. Available in 12 colors. okabashi.com, $14. MP3 speaker After plugging this two-inch iHome speaker into your iPod, just twist and it will pop up to produce even more bass. ihomeaudio.com, from $20. Easy bug protection Using vitamin B1, the waterproof Don't Bite Me stick-on patch repels insects for up to 36 hours. dontbitemepatch.com, five patches for $5. Picnic helper The Lunchbox, courtesy of the Dutch designers at Santa Fe-based Oots, has inserts that are dishwasher- and microwave-safe—and handy for keeping bites separate. madebyoots.com, $45. In the bag Sea to Summit's Ultra-Sil Shopping Bags unfold from a pouch the size of a lemon into a super-size tote that can hold over 250 pounds of summer gear—not bad for under two ounces of material that you can snap to your keychain. seatosummit.com, $18. Aqua lounge Unzip the mesh carrying case, and the Kelsyus Floating Hammock springs to three times its folded size in seconds. Only the pillow and perimeter inflate, so assembly is a cinch. amazon.com, recently $29. Squeezable toiletries Designer Chris Miksovsky's GoToob squishy bottles have wide mouths, making them easier to fill with your favorite shampoo. And since these ultra-soft-silicone containers are transparent and less than three ounces, the TSA will like them, too. humangear.com, from $6.50. Still waters At under four ounces, the world's smallest and lightest digital waterproof camera can be dunked up to 10 feet. Fancy extras, such as auto-sizing and in-camera editing, make the 10-megapixel FujiFilm FinePix Z33WP more than just a bathing beauty. shopfujifilm.com, $200.

Extra! Extra!

GOOD Reward-point payoffs Choice Hotels Bonus reward point promos typically pop up in the off-season, but through August 13, you'll earn double points at participating hotels of brands such as Rodeway Inn and MainStay Suites. Marriott Through September 7, redeem points for two nights at a resort and get a third thrown in for that stay. Book whenever, too: Marriott no longer has blackouts for reward stays. BETTER Rooms for half off Hyatt Families snag a second room at half off, along with free breakfast and 15 percent off spa services. Starwood Second nights at all brands—Sheraton, Element, Westin, and so on—are half off through September. (Use code ZBT when booking.) Wyndham Book the Weekender promotion and get 50 percent off an additional room or a second consecutive night. BEST Plain old free nights Marriott Breakfast and fourth nights are free at properties in Latin America and the Caribbean. (Book with code S29.) W Hotels Third nights are free until September 30. (Use code TNR.) Wyndham At resorts in the Virgin Islands, Puerto Rico, and the Bahamas, receive two free nights for every two nights paid for—plus a $100 credit for food and beverages. BANANAS! Free cash! Booze! Hula hoops! Choice Hotels Stay three separate times at participating Comfort Inns, Clarions, and other brands by August 13 to earn enough points for a $50 cash card. Kimpton Hotels Free wine, sangria, ice cream, appetizers, and Wii tournaments daily at most locations. At check-in, land a room upgrade by picking a lucky number from a deck of cards or (no joke) hula hooping for 20 seconds.