Tokyo: Ueno, Asakusa, Yanaka

Flashy and modern, with dazzling skyscrapers and department stores. Train tracks divide the commercial hub to the west, Nishi-Shinjuku, from shops and bars in Higashi-Shinjuku. SEE Metropolitan Government Offices Nishi Shinjuku 2-8-1, 011-81-3/5321-111, metro.tokyo.jp Architect Kenzo Tange's twin towers still make an imposing mark on the Tokyo landscape. The boundless (and free) views from the 45th floor are enough to make even an exhausted Tokyo government employee smile. The north observatory is open daily 9:30 a.m.--11:00 p.m. and closed the second and fourth Monday of each month. The south is open daily 9:30 a.m.--5:30 p.m. and closed the first and third Tuesday of each month. Both are closed Dec. 29--31, Jan. 2--3. SEE Shinjuku Gyoen National Gardens Naito-cho 11, 011-81-3/3350-0151, shinjkugyoen.go.jp This vast green oasis in the heart of the city has acres of lawns that you are actually allowed to walk on. It's a more relaxed alternative to Ueno Park, and a wonderful spot for cherry- blossom viewing come spring. Open daily 9 a.m.--4:30 p.m. Closed Mon. $1.75. SEE Yoyogi National Gymnasium Yoyogi (halfway between Shinjuku and Harajuku), Jinnan-2-1-1, 011-81-3/3468-1171, naash.go.jp/yoyogi For the 1964 Olympics, Japan's most influential 20th-century architect, Kenzo Tange, created a vision of the future: twin swooping, grey concrete buildings that resemble flying saucers. The grassy hill next door is a good place to lounge and take in the view. EAT Canal Café Kagurazaka 1-9, 011-81-3/3260-8068 In spring, cherry trees form a pink canopy over the deck of this European-style café. To reach it, hop on a Chuo Line train, get off at Iidabashi Station, and take the west exit. EAT Okubo Korea Town Authentic Korean food that's definitely not made for tourists. Choose any of the crowded restaurants, like the Healthy House (Hyakunin-Cho 1-18-10 2F, 011-81-3/3366-2611, English sign), famous for its barbequed meats and bibimbop (rice mixed with vegetables and fried egg), or Oasis (Okubo 1-15-12 2F, 011-81-3/3209-6535, English sign), known for cheap, filling, spicy stews. Get off at Shin-Okubo Station on the Yamanote Line, and follow the locals--and your nose. EAT Thai Country Shinjuku 3-11-1, 011-81-3/3358-0557 A tiny, country-and-western-themed restaurant that's a favorite of local Thais for its home-style dishes, such as fried egg salad and curry. DRINK Advocates Shinjuku 2-18-1, 011-81-3/3358-3988 This small, dark, zebra-striped café/bar in Tokyo's largest gay district has $9 all-you-can-drink specials on Sundays 9 a.m.-- 9 p.m. It's the place to come for pre-club drinks on weekends, when the crowd spills over onto the street outside. DRINK Omoide Yokocho Near the western exit of JR Shinjuku Station Memory Lane, a narrow alley squeezed between Shinjuku Station and a jumble of bigger, newer buildings, is a clutch of tiny charming drinking shacks with just enough space for a handful of customers. Most patrons order beer and yakitori (meat on skewers), but the daily drink and snack specials can be delicious. Go now before the property developers get their way and this slice of Tokyo is lost forever. DRINK Motsuyaki-Dokoro Ishii, Nihon Saisei Sakaba Shinjuku 3-7-3, 011-81-3/3354-4829 Styled after 1950s Tokyo, the boisterous, standing-room-only bar is packed every night of the week. Vintage ad posters cover the walls and the staff wears old-fashioned happi aprons. Sample the shochu, a distilled spirit made from rice, sweet potato, or sugar cane. Order it mixed with oolong tea, fresh lemon or grapefruit and soda, or straight over ice. SPLURGE New York Bar Park Hyatt Hotel, Nishi-Shinjuku 3-7-1-2, 011-81-3/5322-1234, parkhyatttokyo.com Recreate a favorite Lost in Translation moment at the sexy wood-paneled bar on the 52nd floor, where Bill Murray's character drowned his sorrows in whiskey. After-dark views of the city's flickering neon are stunning, and there are excellent live jazz performances nightly. $18 cover after 8 p.m. SHOP Lammfromm The Concept Store Uehara 1-1-21, 011-81-3/5454-0450, lammfromm.jpExceptional boutique that stocks works by some of the hottest contemporary artists from Japan and abroad--Yayoi Kusama prints, Yoshitomo Nara T-shirts, and accessories by Takeshi Murakami of Louis Vuitton. The knowledgeable staff can guide you, and prices are not as steep as you'd think. SHOP Tokyu Hands Times Square Building, Sendagaya 5-24-2 (New South Exit of JR Shinjuku Station), 011-81-3/5361-3111, tokyu-hands.co.jp You name it, they have it. Wander the seven floors of this hardware store and you're sure to find items that you never imagined under one roof, like emergency earthquake supplies, gold lamé kimonos, and "bow-lingual" machines that tell you exactly what your dog is trying to say by "analyzing" its bark.

Thriving nightlife, flashing neon, and trendy boutiques draw teens to Shibuya; Daikanyama has a quiet but hip vibe; Ebisu is known for museums and the Yebisu Garden Place entertainment complex. SEE Meguro River Shops line this shady stream running through the heart of Tokyo's hippest neighborhood. Competition is tough, and impossibly cool boutiques and cafés come and go in the blink of an eye. See it before the next high-rise giant goes up in their place. From the Naka-Meguro Station on the Hibiya or Tokyu lines, exit the station and walk straight ahead. SEE Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of Photography Mita 1-13-3, 011-81-3/3280-0099, syabi.com Rotating exhibits by influential photographers. There's always something worth seeing. Recent shows have included Mario Testino, Brassaï, and an exhibit on "How Photography Changed People's Viewpoint." Closed Mon. From $4, depending on the exhibit. EAT En Shibuya 1-24-12 11F, 011-81-3/5468-6196, izakaya-en.com Tatami mats complement the excellent modern Japanese flavors and decor at this popular casual izakaya (a Japanese pub with lots of beer and tasty eats). Try the succulent grilled tuna cheek with garlic. EAT Luxis Aqua Restaurant and Bar Ebisu Nishi 1-7-3 BF1, 011-81-3/5428-2288, luxis.co.jp It's easy to let yourself be mesmerized by the two-story floor-to-ceiling aquarium and the fishy inhabitants who swim in blissful ignorance of what's consumed outside the tank. The Chardonnay-steamed mussels and the tuna and avocado tartare are both superb. SPLURGE Maimon Oyster Bar and Charcoal Grill Ebisu Minami 1-1-10, 011-81-3/3715-0303, maimon.jp Handsome dark woods, modern blue spot lighting, and an impressive counter completely covered with ice combine to make an ideal setting for slurping oysters. A popular "shooters" order is three fresh oysters in individual shot glasses topped with Japanese seasonings, such as vinegary ponzu, raw sea urchin, or yama-imo (yam). Cold dry tenyuri sake goes nicely with the briny shellfish. The waitstaff know their stuff and are happy to make recommendations. DRINK Starbucks Coffee Opposite the Hachiko exit of JR Shibuya Station, 011-81-3/3770-2301 Not the most inspired venue for coffee in Tokyo, but the window seats have the best views of the famously chaotic Hachiko intersection. Sip a green tea Frappuccino, snap a few photos, and gaze at the throngs elbowing across. SHOP Hanjiro Sarugaku-cho 24-1, 011-81-3/5784-5627, hanjiro.co.jp The funkiest secondhand shop in town, and not just for its reasonably priced reworked vintage items. Decorative accents include religious icons, live parrots, and bathtubs filled with goldfish. SHOP Kamawanu Sarugaku-cho 23-1, 011-81-3/3780-0182, kamawanu.com A popular little store selling one of Tokyo's beloved collector's items--exquisitely hand-dyed tenugui (cotton handkerchiefs). The beautiful designs change by season--falling cherry blossoms in spring and vivid leaf patterns in fall. From $8. SHOP Okura Sarugaku-cho 20-11, 011-81-3/3461-8511, hrm.co.jp Cooler-than-cool men and women buy indigo-dyed shirts with distinctive kimono-inspired designs from this unusual boutique, whose owners keep a pet chicken on the second-floor balcony of the old stone house. PLAY Air Sarugakucho 2-11, 011-81-3/5784-3386, air-tokyo.com Spare but trendy basement club hosting big name DJs from around the world. The laid-back Frames café upstairs serves lattes and cheesecake until dawn. Cover from $10, depending on DJ. TABOO TATTOOS The yakuza are notorious Japanese gangsters whose history dates back to the Edo period (1603--1837). Proof of an individual's strength, elaborate tattoos are the nearly exclusive hallmark of members of this Japanese Mafia. Most swimming pools and onsens in Japan ban tattoos to keep out the yakuza and avoid trouble. ESCAPE Shonan Beaches The gray volcanic sand beaches of Shonan, to the southwest of Tokyo, turn into resorts in summer, with countless bars and cafés that cater to the thousands of vacationers. The swimming isn't so great, but the party atmosphere is fun. Check out the Little Thailand area of Thai-run food stalls and massage shacks on Yuigahama Beach. Not quite Southeast Asia, but not a bad antidote to the unbearable humidity of the Japanese summer. From Kamakura, hop the Enoden electric railway line. $1.50 each way from Kamakura. (See box on p. 1.)

Omotesando Boulevard is at the heart of Harakuju, a trendy shopping district that spawns outrageous styles. Aoyama caters to an older, more chic clientele and has the highest concentration of outlets. SEE Omotesando architecture Jingumae (between Meiji-Dori and Aoyama-Dori) The crumbling but beautiful pre-war dojunkai apartments have been razed, but this avenue is still an architect's delight, with creations such as the Tod's Building (Jingumae 5-1-15) by Toyo Ito, the Dior Building (Jingumae 5-9-11) by Sanaa, and the not yet completed Omotesando Hills (Jingumae 4-12) by the current darling of Japanese architecture, Tadao Ando. All are within a stone's throw of each other. SEE Prada Boutique Aoyama Minami Aoyama 5-2-6, 011-81-3/6418-0400 Even if you're not in the market for a $700 cashmere sweater, this breathtaking edifice of convex glass diamonds by Herzog & de Meuron is a stunning sight. SEE Yoyogi Park Just behind Harajuku Station on the Yamanote Line Famous in the '80s for its tribes of hip rockabillies. It's still the spot to sneak a peak at some of Tokyo's most outlandish hobbies and their practitioners. The rabbit group meets regularly to trade bunny tips and show off their long-eared pets on leashes. If you're lucky, you'll also catch the ukulele group strumming "I Fought the Law" and other rock classics. Good weird fun. EAT Chao Bamboo Jingumae 6-1-5 (just off Omotesando), 011-81-3/5466-4787, bamboo.co.jp/chaoDelicious Southeast Asian food in unpretentious surroundings. The fresh Vietnamese spring rolls and mild to-die-for green curry draw a dedicated stream of regulars. Be prepared to wait on weekends. EAT Harajuku Gyoza Jingumae 6-2-4 (opposite Chao Bamboo), 011-81-3/3406-4743 Line up with those in the know at this lively restaurant for some of Tokyo's tastiest--and cheapest--gyoza (fried or boiled dumplings). Sit at one of the long wooden tables, or try a counter seat to experience the kitchen-patron banter. EAT Heiroku-zushi Jingumae 5-8-5 (on Omotesando), 011-81-3/3498-3968, heiroku.jp Technology and sushi unite. Novices can inspect passing plates on a conveyor belt, choosing whatever looks appetizing. Good quality dishes start at a very economical $1 per plate (2 pieces). DRINK Carmenere Omotesando Jingumae 4-4-7 BF1, 011-81-3/3401-6779 Some 70,000 Swarovski crystals provide added sparkle to this swish basement champagne bar frequented by Tokyo's young and beautiful. Arrive before 9:30 p.m. for one of the coveted counter seats in front of the crystal mural. From $15 for a glass of bubbly. Cover charge (for men only): From $9. SHOP A Bathing Ape Minami Aoyama 5-5-8, 011-81-3/3407-2145, bape.com Tokyo's coolest street label. On the second floor, smart new sneakers ride round and round on a sushi conveyor belt. The best buys, however, are the iconic T-shirts. A recent one featured a crossover Planet of the Apes meets Che Guevara image on the front. From $50. SHOP Bunkaya Zakkaten Jingumae 3-28-9, 011-81-3/3423-8980, bunkaya.co.jp Jesus and Mary chopstick rests and Jackie O. sunglasses made out of buttons are among the cheap trinkets at this cheerful little shop dedicated to kitsch. One of many fun boutiques in the narrow backstreets running off Omotesando avenue. SHOP The Daiso 100 Yen Shop Jingumae 1-19-24, 011-81-3/5775-9641, daiso-sangyo.co.jp A frugal shopper's paradise located on crowded Takeshita-dori street, the capital of cool for Tokyo's teens on the hunt for anime character notebooks, cute stickers, make-up and other must-have items. Everything in the four-story emporium costs 100 yen (90¢), plus tax. SHOP Pet Paradise Jingumae 1-6-5, 011-81-3/3497-0379, creativeyoko.co.jp For those who like to play dress-up with their dogs. Canine costumes for sale include lamb suits and fire fighter outfits. SPLURGE Henshin-Studio Mon Katsura Jingumae 4-28-4, 011-81-3/3470-0027, henshin-maiko.com Create your own Memoirs of a Geisha with a makeover and photo session. Women can don an exquisite kimono and voluminous wig and smile demurely through perfectly painted lips. Men are transformed into samurai. Makeovers available daily 11 a.m.--4 p.m. Reservations a must. $105 for women, $43 for men; prices include three photos. HARAJUKU WHO? The legions of now-famous Harajuku girls (and some guys) keep growing and morphing. Their eye-popping styles are easy to spot--punk hipsters, cartoonish girly-girls, ghetto fabulous hip-hoppers. Shop alongside them at Laforet, a complex of over 100 trendy boutiques (Jingumae 1-11-6 , Shibuya-ku, 011-81-3/475-0411, laforet.ne.jp), and along the crowded main drags: Takeshita, Meiji-dori, and Jingumae.

Compact, central area known for high-end shops, restaurants and galleries, Ginza is the spot where the elite meet--especially on Sundays, when many streets are pedestrian-only. Yurakucho lies to the northwest. SEE Mitsukoshi Department Store Jizo and Shrine Ginza 4-6-16, 011-81-3/3562-1111,ginza.mitsukoshi.co.jp Push through crowds shopping for everything under the rising sun and head to the rooftop. Overlooking the scene is a large stone statue of Jizo, guardian deity of luck, success, and prosperity in business. Open daily 10 a.m.--8 p.m. SEE Tokyo International Forum Marunouchi 3-5-1, 011-81-3/5221-9000, t-i-forum.co.jp Standing inside this architecturally stunning, swooping, almond-shaped exhibition center is like being inside a whale. The excellent Oedo Antique Fair, held on the first and third Sunday of every month, is also worth a look; it's a good place to search for antique kimonos. EAT Ginza Sembikiya Fresh Fruit and Parlour Ginza 5-5-1, 011-81-3/3572-0101, ginza-sembikiya.jp Perfect apples, ambrosial grapes, and heaven-sent melons have been the hallmarks of this high-end fruit store since 1894. For those who can't afford a $185 melon, the parlor upstairs serves single slices. EAT Little Okinawa Taketomi-jima Ginza 6-12-13 B1F , 011-81-3/5537-1293, little-okinawa.co.jp Exotic items--such as stir-fried bitter gourd, 'sea grape' seaweed, and sliced pig's ear--from Japan's southernmost Okinawan islands draw a young and devoted crowd. They believe that the cuisine here may be the secret to longevity--Okinawans have an average life expectancy of 81 years, one of the highest in the world. Everything pairs nicely with awamori, a rice wine from the islands. EAT Yakitori Alley Under the JR train tracks near Hibiya Station (Use Exit A1, walk south) Follow the smoke and join the merry salarymen at one of these convivial street-side yakitori (meat on skewers) bars. If you don't fancy the chicken skin and cartilage options, ask for negima (boneless meat with leek). The bullet trains speeding by overhead provide a stark contrast to the old street stalls. EAT Hanadaikon Ginza 6-7-4 B1F, 011-81-3/3569-0953, e-ohashi.com/hanazen/hanadaikon High-quality Japanese flavors emerge on little plates from the kitchen. Traditional ikebana (Japanese flower arrangement) and washi (handmade paper) decorations adorn this small basement restaurant. Take a seat on the floor at one of the low tables with ladies who lunch. Order the Tofu Rakuzen ($23): your 12 dishes of seasonal delicacies might include sesame tofu, sweet steamed pumpkin, or grilled eel. The pretty, patterned wooden chopsticks are for taking home. Warning: There's no English sign; look for the giant chopsticks and head down the stairs. SPLURGE Sushi Karaku Ginza 5-6-16, 011-81-3/3571-2250 ginza-karaku.com Top-quality, melt-in-the-mouth sushi at reasonable prices. The chef will recommend the best catch of the day or season, but you can't really go wrong with the buttery chu-toro (fatty tuna). The evening omakase (chef's selection) costs $138; cheaper options are available at lunchtime. Try the assorted nigiri sushi plate--delectable slices of raw fish on lumps of vinegar rice. From $27. DRINK Cha Ginza Ginza 5-5-6, 011-81-3/3571-1211, uogashi-meicha.co.jp A teashop that perfectly combines contemporary Japanese architecture and traditional taste--smooth concrete walls, white benches, and a long beverage menu. For just $4.50, you can sip matcha green tea, which comes in espresso-size cups, accompanied by a flower-shaped wagashi sweet made from rice or bean paste. Closed Mon. SHOP Bic Camera Yurakucho 1-11-1, 011-81-3/5221-1111, biccamera.com All the newest Japan-made electronics. There's a dazzling array of cell phones, digital cameras, computers, hand-helds, and video games. This store is a less nerdy alternative to the vast tech emporium of Akihabara, but it does feature an irritating, non-stop jingle. It has handbags and booze,too. PLAY Big Echo Karaoke Ginza 4-2-14, 011-81-3/3563-5100, clubdam.com/be Individual themed rooms that accommodate up to 30 people. Thanks to extensive soundproofing, crooners are protected from added humiliation as they belt out old favorites. The pink, sparkling Hello Kitty floor is especially fun--a talking statue of the bubbly 30-year-old character welcomes you as you exit the elevator. From $7.50 per person for 30 minutes; $9 for the astounding 120-minute all-you-can-drink option. TOKYO TREND: THEME RESTAURANTS Ever wanted to dine while handcuffed to your partner, or under the hallowed gaze of the Virgin Mary? Alcatraz E.R.+ (Dogenzaka 2-13-5 2F, 011-81-3/3770-7100), a prison-cum-hospital-themed restaurant, serves up "prescription cocktails" in test tubes to inmates locked in their cells. Diners can only leave if they post "bail" after their meal. For an altogether holier experience, the cathedral-like Christon Café (Dogenzaka 2-10-7, 011-81-3/5728-2225) has statues of Mary, stained glass windows, and chalices for the holy wine. The food at both places is surprisingly good.