Where to Stay in Vienna

Growing up in Hawaii in the mid-'80s, my only visit to a resort was the night of my senior prom. Even though my family had a history with the resorts--my grandfather used to play there in the 1930s, when he was a member of the Royal Hawaiian Band--the areas felt somehow kapu, or forbidden, and the other kids and I avoided them. I couldn't afford to hang out there anyway; my allowance was $12.50 a week. Twenty years later I was living in New York City, working for magazines. After I switched my focus to travel writing, I got to go all over--23 countries and counting--and my work has enabled me to return to Hawaii four times a year. I finally explored the gilded hotels and restaurants I barely knew existed in my youth. I'd be a liar if I said I didn't enjoy them. But I do believe that if you want a taste of authentic Hawaii, you're better off being on a budget. That's especially true on Maui. Though A-list celebs are constantly shown in tabloids romping on the island, Maui isn't just for millionaires. It may have a reputation as the least Hawaiian and the most expensive of the islands, but Maui still has soul. First, however, you have to leave the tourist areas of Wailea, Lahaina, and Kaanapali. And here's where you should go instead . . . . Kahului and Wailuku Kahului is the commercial center of Maui, home to the main airport, fast-food chains, hospitals, and so on. In other words, unless you have errands to run, you'll probably be happier elsewhere. Neighboring Wailuku, in contrast, is a sleepy local town, where eclectic businesses are popping up because it's the last area with affordable commercial rents. Lodging: The Old Wailuku Inn is a B&B inside a 1920s plantation-style home built by Charles Lufkin, former president of the Bank of Maui, which later merged into the still-prominent Bank of Hawaii. There's a delicious breakfast of fresh fruit and pastries, and a lending library of travel and gardening books. Each room is unique: Some are a little over-the-top, so be sure to check them out online. Food: Tricky to find but worth the hunt, A Saigon Cafe serves authentic Vietnamese food on generous plates meant for sharing. The Goi Ga chicken salad, with cabbage and peanuts, is low-carb but satisfying. Activities: Kanaha Beach Park, behind the rental-car lots at the airport, is a lovely white-sand beach for swimming, sunning, windsurfing, and surfing. (You have to paddle out about 100 yards, however, to get to the surf break; for gentler waves, head over to Waiehu Beach Park.) HST Windsurfing & Kitesurfing School teaches wind- and kite-surfing to beginners. Shopping: At Saturday's Maui Swap Meet in Kahului, more than 100 vendors sell souvenirs at a fraction of what they'd cost in hotel gift shops. If you've fallen in love with island fabrics, buy Hawaiian prints at the Fabric Mart for as little as $5 per yard. Nightlife: Wailuku's new lefty bookstore, Maui Booksellers, attracts counterculture types as well as academics looking for rare Hawaiiana. The $5 Friday movie nights feature controversial documentaries, preaching to the converted who sit on uncomfortable plastic chairs for the opportunity to debate after the screening. Down the street, Café Marc Aurel hosts wine-tasting evenings with live musicians--from cute surfer girls playing bubblegum pop to salty dogs on acoustic guitar. Throughout the year, the Maui Film Festival hosts a weekly indie $10 movie series, CandleLight Café & Cinema, at the Maui Arts and Cultural Center. Hipsters gather beforehand for veggie stir-fries and wine in the courtyard. It's also where, in December, the Maui Film Festival hosts Oscar-contender screenings that are open to the public. Lodging   Old Wailuku Inn 2199 Kahookele St., Wailuku, 800/305-4899, oldwailukuinn.com, from $140 Food   A Saigon Cafe 1792 Main St., Wailuku, 808/243-9560, Goi Ga salad $7.50 Activities   HST Windsurfing School 425 Koloa St., Kahului, 800/968-5423, hstwindsurfing.com, from $79 Shopping   Maui Swap Meet S. Puunene Ave., Kahului, 808/877-3100   Fabric Mart 55 E. Kaahumanu Ave., Kahului, 808/871-5770 Nightlife   Maui Booksellers 105 N. Market St., Wailuku, 808/244-9091, mauibooksellers.com   Café Marc Aurel 28 N. Market St., Wailuku, 808/244-0852, cafemarcaurel.com   CandleLight Café & Cinema Maui Arts and Cultural Center, 1 Cameron Way, Kahului, 808/579-9244, mauifilmfestival.com/ccc Kihei As late as the '70s, Kihei's beaches were almost barren--miles of sugary sand. Now they're home to miles of condos, too. But the town still has a relatively youthful energy. Food: Jawz Tacos started as a roadside truck parked at the entry to Makena Beach Park, but by popular demand soon grew to include an air-conditioned surfer hangout serving taco salads big enough for two. Pile on the sauces at the free salsa bar, where each topping is rated from one to five, five being spiciest. For a traditional "plate lunch"--and one of the few places outside of a luau where you can try kalua pork, pork laulau (steamed in taro leaves), and lomi lomi salmon--stop by Da Kitchen. It's in a strip mall, so get your dinner to go, drive to one of the beaches across South Kihei Road (Kamaole Beach Parks I, II, or III), and eat watching the sunset. From 10 p.m. to 1 a.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, one of Hawaii's top chefs, D.K. Kodama, sells half-price sushi specials at Sansei. The catch: While you eat, people sing karaoke. Activities: Makena Beach Park is divided into Big Beach, popular with families, and Little Beach (up over the cliffs at the north end), a stretch with an outrageous, clothing-discouraged Sunday-sunset drumcircle that attracts more than a hundred revelers. It's a happy, mostly innocent gathering the authorities kindly ignore. The adjacent Puu Olai crater, 360 feet in elevation, is a 15-minute hike. There's usually no better whale-watching spot on the island during the November to March season. Beware: Both Big and Little beaches have dangerous currents and shore breaks. Kamaole I, II, and III are safer swimming options, as well as beach volleyball hotspots. Take advantage of free valet parking at the Four Seasons Resort, then spring for a drink inside the hotel, or stroll along the Wailea Beachwalk, a public jogging/bike path that provides an oceanfront tour of the Wailea resorts. Shopping: Here's a tip: You can get 10 percent off many purchases at the Foodland supermarket if you give them your condo address and sign up for a Maikai Card (locals also call it the "Kamaaina Card"). Or just say you left your card at home. Nightlife: Willie K--imagine a Hawaiian Lenny Kravitz plus a hundred pounds--plays Mondays at Hapa's (there's a $10 cover those nights). You never know who'll show up: Both Prince and Janet Jackson have jammed with him. Also, the large young Irish population on Maui (they work at the resorts) makes the local Irish pub, Mulligan's on the Blue, a lively watering hole. Lodging   Maui Lu Resort 575 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/879-5881, from $119   Hale Hui Kai 2994 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/879-1219, from $165, five-night minimum Food   Jawz Tacos 1279 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/874-8226, taco salad $10   Da Kitchen 2439 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/875-7782, kalua pork $7.75   Sansei 1881 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/879-0004, sanseihawaii.com Activities   Four Seasons Resort 3900 Wailea Alanui Dr., Wailea, 808/874-8000 Shopping   Foodland 1881 S. Kihei Rd., Kihei, 808/879-9350 Nightlife   Hapa's 41 E. Lipoa St., Kihei, 808/879-9001, hapashawaii.com   Mulligan's on the Blue 100 Kaukahi St., Wailea, 808/874-1131 Haleakala and Upcountry Upcountry Maui surprises people: The cooler temperatures, misty green rolling hills, and small farms can fool you into thinking you've wandered into Brigadoon. It makes for a heck of a contrast with the stark beauty of Haleakala, a volcano 10,023 feet high at the summit. Lodging: Conveniently about halfway up, the Kula Lodge & Restaurant is pretty much the only stop on the drive to Haleakala for full meals and lodging. It's a cozy place to refuel, with a fire by which you can fight the chill. Food: Komoda Store & Bakery sells fresh pastries, like chocolate cream puffs sprinkled with white sugar. While dinner is a splurge, lunch at the Haliimaile General Store doesn't have to be. With some restraint, you can enjoy outstanding regional cuisine, such as a sashimi napoleon, for around $15 per person. Activities: The winding road to Haleakala National Park is legendary, but it's the summit's Mars-like crater that will amaze you. Dress warmly if you plan to be there for sunrise or sunset--temperatures drop into the low 30s. The high elevation means that the free tasting at Tedeschi Vineyards can go to your head; be sure to designate a driver. Shopping: Ching Store, founded in 1939, is one of Maui's last family-owned plantation general stores--meaning it was open when plantations were the mainstay of the economy. It has a full shelf of cans of Spam (Hawaii consumes an extraordinary amount of the pork product). Rodeo General Store is a good place to overhear gossip and pick up local produce, including strong Kula-grown coffee. Nightlife: Casanova, a modest Italian restaurant, morphs into Maui's most happening nightspot, jammed with sun-kissed surfers and nubile hippie chicks. Ladies' Night is the hot ticket (guys pay a $10 cover). Lodging   Kula Lodge 15200 Haleakala Hwy., Kula, 808/878-1535, kulalodge.com, from $115 Food   Komoda Store & Bakery 3674 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 808/572-7261   Haliimaile General Store 900 Haliimaile Rd., Haliimaile, 808/572-2666, haliimailegeneralstore.com Activities   Haleakala National Park 808/572-4400, nps.gov/hale, $10 car fee per week Shopping   Ching Store 9212 Kula Hwy., Kula, 808/878-1556   Rodeo General Store 3661 Baldwin Ave., Makawao, 808/572-1868   Tedeschi Vineyards Ulupalakua Ranch, Ulupalakua, 877/878-6058, mauiwine.com Nightlife   Casanova 1188 Makawao Ave., Makawao, 808/572-0220, casanovamaui.com Paia and Haiku Since the '80s, athletes from South America and Europe have flocked to Maui's north shore, so don't be surprised if you overhear conversations in Portuguese, Spanish, and French. Both Paia and Haiku have hippie roots tempered by an influx of new money; the result is a global village with hearty, healthy restaurants and everything from tattoo parlors to boutiques selling $200 bikinis. Lodging: Haiku Plantation Inn is a historic home turned B&B five minutes from the best north shore beaches. It offers lomi lomi massages and other healing remedies, including a ceremony in which you drink a tea infused with kava, a mildly stimulating root Hawaiians call awa. While Mama's Fish House is famous for serving the best food on Maui in a Polynesian-style tiki mansion right on the beach (entrées start at $32), most folks don't know that Mama's also rents stylish beach cottages, including five one-bedrooms with kitchens and patios. Alas, staying there gets you no discount on dinner. Food: Hawaiians favor fatty, salty foods, which makes a health-food store like Mana Foods so welcome. The Paia Fish Market, a casual place to see and be seen, offers a tasty, satisfying mahi taco plate with home fries, coleslaw, or Cajun rice for $11. Colleen's is a cavernous café in the same complex as Studio Maui (see below), popular for post-yoga chat-and-chai. Activities: The galvanizing event of the winter, drawing hundreds of spectators into the pineapple fields to watch with binoculars, is tow-in surfing at Jaws--a 40-foot-plus wave made famous by extreme surfer Laird Hamilton and movies like Riding Giants and Step Into Liquid. Beginners and experienced surfers alike rave about feeling safe with lessons from identical twins Tide and Kiva Rivers, who own Rivers to the Sea. The waves at Hookipa Beach Park are a bit more manageable (at least from April to October), and those who simply hope to take a dip should head for Baldwin Beach Park, adjacent to Paia's skateboard park, or Baby Beach, a mellow bay. Yoga aficionados will want to pose with former Hewlett-Packard executive Jennifer Lynn at Studio Maui, a state-of-the-art yoga studio that can accommodate up to 110 participants. Locals (ahem) can buy two classes and get one free--otherwise, it's $12 a pop. Shopping: When Argentinean designer and Haiku resident Tamara Catz was asked if an awareness of fashion was growing on Maui, she replied, "Yes--people are starting to wear shoes." The dresses at her boutique average around $180, but there are worthwhile seasonal sales in the store and on her website. Nightlife: Charley's is a honky-tonk joint dedicated to patron saint and local resident Willie Nelson. On occasion, Big Willie does sing here, though it's generally only announced the day before--and tickets go in an hour. Lodging   Haiku Plantation Inn 555 Haiku Rd., Haiku, 808/575-7500, haikuleana.net, from $99   Mama's Fish House 799 Poho Pl., Paia, 800/860-4852, mamasfishhouse.com, cottage from $175, three-night minimum Food   Mana Foods 49 Baldwin Ave., Paia, 808/579-8078   Paia Fish Market 100 Hana Hwy., Paia, 808/579-8030, taco plate $11   Colleen's 810 Haiku Rd., Haiku, 808/575-9211 Activities   Rivers to the Sea 808/280-8795, riverstothesea.com, group session from $75   Studio Maui 810 Haiku Rd., Haiku, 808/575-9390, thestudiomaui.com Shopping   Tamara Catz 83 Hana Hwy., Paia, 808/579-9184, tamaracatz.com Nightlife   Charley's 142 Hana Hwy., Paia, 808/579-9453 Huelo and Hana The pretty and difficult two-hour drive that separates lush Hana from the rest of the island has protected it from rapid development. Hana is also where you'll find the largest population of blood Hawaiians outside the island of Molokai. Almost all are employed by some branch of the Hana Ranch, next door to the four-star Hotel Hana-Maui. Forty miles away, Hana's closest neighboring town, Huelo, is the new frontier for travelers who don't mind unpaved roads and a little rain. Lodging: On cliffs overlooking the ocean, Hale Akua Shangri-La is an intimate New Age-y retreat. Some rooms have shared baths, and the grounds (including a saltwater pool and two Jacuzzis) are clothing-optional. If you can bear that, it's quite a deal. Also worth a look is the Hana Hale Malamalama Inn, where the coolest room is the Treehouse Cottage. For romance, it's tough to top the private cliff-top yurt at the Luana Spa Retreat. Massages start at $75. Food: Prepare for the long drive on the road to Hana (the Hana Highway) by stopping at Maui Grown Market. Pick up a picnic lunch and you'll have the option of borrowing a sweet dog for the day. (Dogs have right of refusal.) Once in Hana, your dining options are limited. Go to Tutu's snack bar for the tasty breakfast sandwich or the taro burger, and the Hana Ranch Restaurant's take-out window for hot plates, including a filling one of shoyu chicken with macaroni salad and rice. Activities: Hamoa Beach has something for everyone--a wide black-sand beach for sunning, two breaks for surfing (experienced riders only), and maybe the best break for body boarding and bodysurfing on the entire island. More enriching is a visit to Kahanu Garden, site of the massive and well-preserved ancient Hawaiian temple known as Piilanihale Heiau. Shopping: Hasegawa General Store, one of the island's oldest plantation stores, stocks dusty, offbeat souvenirs, such as an Instant Immersion Hawaiian language CD ($10); Noni tea, a Hawaiian cure-all ($6.50); and coconut candy made in Hana ($3). Nightlife: There's free Hawaiian music from 6:30 p.m. to 9:30 p.m., Thursdays through Sundays, inside the Paniolo Lounge at the Hotel Hana-Maui. Keeping it real is important. But there's nothing wrong with an occasional taste of the luxe life--or a really good mai tai. Lodging   Hale Akua Shangri-La Huelo Point, Huelo, 808/572-9300, from $60, two-night minimum   Hana Hale Malamalama Uakea Rd., Hana, 808/248-7718, hanahale.com, from $135   Luana Spa Retreat 5050 Uakea Rd., Hana, 888/898-2772, luanaspa.com, from $100 Food   Maui Grown Market 4320 Hana Hwy., Haiku, 808/572-1693   Tutu's Hana, 808/248-8224, taro burger $6.25   Hana Ranch Restaurant Hana Hwy., Hana, 808/248-8255, shoyu chicken plate $7.50 Activities   Piilanihale Heiau Kahanu Garden, Hana, 808/248-8912, ntbg.org/gardens/kahanu.html, $10 Shopping   Hasegawa General Store 5165 Hana Hwy., Hana, 808/248-8231 Nightlife   Hotel Hana-Maui 5031 Hana Hwy., Hana, 808/248-8211, hotelhanamaui.com

Paris was spurned in its bid for the 2012 Olympic Games, but you wouldn't know it amid the bustle of construction along the Seine. This spring, the city is positively abloom with museum openings and renovated architectural treasures. The most long-awaited debut is the Musee de l'Orangerie, which opens on May 2 after an unexpectedly drawn-out six-year reconstruction. An 1852 former orange-tree greenhouse in a corner of the Tuileries garden, l'Orangerie was transformed into a museum in 1927 to house Claude Monet's Water-Lilies, giant panels inspired by his pond in Giverny. But the oval gallery where the paintings lived became dark and claustrophobic when a new exhibition floor that covered existing skylights was added in 1960. Construction was well under way when the discovery of a 17th-century limestone wall under the museum caused a delay; new permits had to be obtained and plans were altered. Now, the upper floor has been removed, letting in natural light, and the entry hall has been remodeled to allow direct access to the marquee art. Additionally, builders created a subterranean gallery and installed air-conditioning to protect the collection, which also includes works by Cezanne, Matisse, Picasso, and Renoir. Less famous--but no less worthy--are the sister palaces, the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais, 19th-century jewels built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. Each underwent serious renovations, and reopened late last year. The Petit Palais, a flamboyant, domed confection of gilded wrought iron and Italian mosaics, is home to the Musee des Beaux-Arts, which has permanent works by Delacroix and Courbet. An $86 million makeover restored the palace's stone exterior to its original wedding-cake whiteness; vivid blue ceiling panels representing themes of Beauty, Thought, Mysticism, and Matter were touched up. In the half-moon garden courtyard, gardeners replanted species of palm trees that had been there in the early 20th century. Across the street, a four-year face-lift was the first stage of a $120 million total renovation at the Grand Palais. It bolstered the foundation and the structural safety of the glass-and-steel exhibition hall. (The building had been closed since 1993 after a metal bolt from the ceiling plunged 115 feet into a display case.) The showpiece is an art nouveau cupola framed by 9,370 tons of green steel. The Grand Palais also has temporary exhibits; a collection of contemporary French art will remain on display through July. Workmen recently finished a big job at the Aquarium du Trocadero, which was closed for more than two decades. The aquarium, on a hill facing the Eiffel Tower, opened in April with over 10,000 fish, three cinemas, and an underground glass tunnel that is supposed to simulate an undersea swim. One other noteworthy museum is in a burst of final preparations. The Musee du Quai Branly is slated to open June 23. The building, designed by Jean Nouvel, is intended to resemble a giant footbridge; what looks from afar like a long elevated strip is surrounded by a garden with 178 types of trees, including sugar maples, cherry trees, and magnolias. The museum--which assumed the collection of the Musee des Arts d'Afrique et d'Oceanie--will be the only one in Paris dedicated to ethnography and indigenous peoples. If it feels like you'll need to add night shifts to squeeze in all the new museums, no worries: The Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, in the east wing of the Palais de Tokyo, now lets guests wander around until 10 p.m. on Wednesdays. As part of a two-and-a-half-year renovation completed in February, exhibition space was added in the basement, and a special "black room" was built to screen art videos. Work was also done to Raoul Dufy's 1937 La Fee Electricite, an epic celebration of electricity. The 6,450-foot oil mural, composed of 250 wood panels, had its asbestos backing stripped off, and is mounted on curved walls and illuminated from the floor, carrying out the artist's original vision. In 1998, the government bought a Frank Gehry-designed building formerly home to the American Center of Paris. It took six years and $41 million, but in September, the Cinemathèque Française opened within. The Cinemathèque is a shrine to cinema, with daily screenings of classics, and a collection of antique film cameras and memorabilia--among them a dress Vivien Leigh wore in Gone With the Wind. Finally, there's the newly restored 1930s apartment of Le Corbusier. The spare two-floor penthouse, where the architect lived and painted from 1935 to 1965, is part of a seven-story building that he designed. A sculpted spiral staircase ascends to a top-floor terrace; the minimalist bathroom has a white, tube-shaped shower; and throughout are glass-block accents and stone walls. Unlike at other museums, visitors are welcome to touch the works. Which means after a full day of museum hopping, you can settle into one of the black leather Le Corbusier couches, look out a picture window, and catch your breath.   Musee de L'Orangerie Jardin des Tuileries, 011-33/1-40-20-67-71   Petit Palais avenue Winston Churchill, 011-33/1-53-43-40-00, free   Cinemathèque Française 51 rue de Bercy, 011-33/1-71-19-33-33, $5   Musee d'Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris 11 avenue du President Wilson, 011-33/1-53-67-40-00, free   Musee du Quai Branly 37 quai Branly, 011-33/1-56-61-71-72, $10   Aquarium du Trocadero 2 avenue des Nations Unies, $30, kids $14   Appartement de Le Corbusier 24 rue Nungesser et Coli, 011-33/1-42-88-75-72, $3.60   Grand Palais avenue Winston Churchill, $8

A trip to Europe has been a long time coming for three young women from Girl Scout Troop 542 of Savannah, Ga. Kaley Boyles, Maria Finocchiaro, and Caroline Jackovich have been working for more than a year to fund the vacation. "The rule in our troop is that each girl must raise her share from babysitting, chores, car washing, and so on," says Sallie Boyles, troop leader (and mother of Kaley). "They're supposed to earn the money--not be given it--to make them really appreciate things." If there's a badge for planning ahead, Sallie deserves it. "I'm obsessive," she says. "I have to plan everything!" More than a year and a half in advance, her group sent deposits of $190 apiece for a chalet in Switzerland. Now they need to fill in the rest of the trip. Maria thinks it would be cheapest to fly round trip to London and use a low-fare airline for a separate round trip to Geneva. She also convinces her mom to make the journey. "She hasn't gone on a Girl Scout trip for a long time," says Maria. "She had to come." Fran Arnsdorff, the troop's other leader, rounds out the group heading overseas, with three girls and three adults. "I've been to other states," says 15-year-old Kaley, "but nothing like across the ocean." Maria's never been to Europe either, and Caroline has only visited Scotland. They contact us with a basic itinerary of London and Switzerland--and lots of questions. The budget is $2,500 per person. Based on price quotes she's gathered, Sallie estimates that they each need about $1,000 for transatlantic airfare, $100 for flights within Europe, and $165 for the trains and buses in Switzerland. When they factor in lodging for 10 nights, food, and other fixed costs, they don't have all that much left to spend on activities or souvenirs. It becomes apparent our mission is to help the group cut costs and thereby give them more opportunities to enjoy themselves. Looking only at major booking engines nearly half a year before departure, Sallie finds that $953 is the best she can do on flights from Savannah to London. We point the group to airfare consolidator Destination Europe, which offers a fare of $848 on US Airways for the same days. Sallie's zeal for planning leads her to reserve nearly a year in advance at a London hostel that charges $60 per person per night. It's a good deal, but not quite as good as the London St. Paul's Youth Hostel, which costs $43 per adult, $36 for each girl, with breakfast included and an excellent location near St. Paul's Cathedral. After consulting the handy whichbudget.com, which lists low-fare-carrier routes, we discover that EasyJet flies direct from London-Gatwick to Geneva for as little as $83 round trip on the day we search. Swiss Transfer Tickets, good for two days of rail travel within a month, can get them between Geneva and their chalet in Adelboden, and since kids 15 and under travel free with a parent, the group saves $164 compared to point-to-point tickets. "I'm excited about going to Switzerland and seeing the sun rise over the Alps," says Maria. "The countryside looks really beautiful--a lot different than the flatlands near Savannah." The chalet where they're staying is run by the Girl Scouts, with organized hikes and sightseeing. Costs are fixed, and there's no real way for us to advise them about saving money there, so we turn to what they want to see and do in London. Most people assume that only groups of 10 or more are eligible for special rates. But for some attractions and transportation, the troop can buy group tickets that cover a mix of adults and kids--and there's often no requirement that the people be related. Such tickets on the Gatwick Express, from the airport to Victoria station, save them a total of $50 each way compared to six individual tickets. "We read that it's fun to take a bus tour on the morning you arrive in London, to get your bearings," says Sallie. The Original London Sightseeing Tour uses double-deckers with an open-air top level, so the group can see all the landmarks with the wind in their hair. The girls ask about taking a walking tour, preferably one at night that focuses on creepy ghost stories or tales of Jack the Ripper. The options offered by London Walks--in business since 1960 and considered by most to be the best walking-tour outfit in the city--include Haunted London, Ghosts of the Old City, and Jack the Ripper Haunts tours, none of which cost more than $10. "Of course, we need shopping," says Kaley. "We're looking for things that aren't too expensive." Maria chimes in with a request for good spots to "walk around and see all the little stores." For smaller shops, they might try the pinwheel of streets radiating out from Seven Dials (just north of Covent Garden), which are packed with little tea shops, bookstores, and funky boutiques. Oxford Street offers a different shopping experience not to be missed, as it's lined with huge stores such as Topshop ("The World's Largest Fashion Store," with a vast selection of reasonably priced accessories and clothes for young women) and Marks & Spencer (a grocery-and-clothing-store combo beloved by the masses), as well as HMV and Virgin Megastore, which are both loaded with CDs. London is also known for its amazing flea markets, including less expensive trinkets, secondhand clothing, jewelry, and artwork, on sale daily at the Camden and Spitalfields markets. And finally, we steer the girls to the city's excellent official tourism site, visitlondon.com, and in particular to pages on Designer Discount Stores (under "Budget") and Chic on the Cheap (under "Shopping"). "The girls don't like a lot of museum-going," says Sallie. "But they'd be willing to check out an interesting one." Since Kaley and Maria attend a school for the arts, and all three girls are into all kinds of music, a morning at Trafalgar Square seems in order. First they can review works by da Vinci, Cézanne, and Degas at the National Gallery; like many London museums, it's free. Around lunchtime, they should make their way to St. Martin-in-the-Fields, which hosts free concerts on Mondays, Tuesdays, and Fridays. Lunch prices at the church's Café in the Crypt are reasonable, and tables sit atop flat gravestones lining the floor. In all honesty, the girls are looking forward to hanging out at the Hard Rock Cafe far more than an afternoon at any museum. Yet the Cabinet War Rooms, with its warren of underground chambers in which Churchill and his staff plotted during World War II, piques Kaley's interest. "That's awesome!" she says when we describe the layout. "I would love to see that." Caroline is active in her high school drama club, and all three girls say they want to see one of Shakespeare's plays if it isn't too expensive. At Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, "groundlings" pay just $9 to watch a play while standing in the central open-air yard of this doughnut-shaped playhouse, a faithful Elizabethan-era reconstruction that should be familiar to anyone who saw Shakespeare in Love. "We were talking about the old theaters in class, and they sound really cool," says Maria. "We read Romeo and Juliet, and we went into what Shakespeare did and his world." The only drawback: While the troop is in town, the Globe will be presenting Coriolanus and Titus Andronicus--a bit heavy for teenagers on summer vacation. We suggest they might be happier paying $18 for nosebleed seats at the Open Air Theatre in Regent's Park, where they can pick from a pair of crowd-pleasing comedies: The Taming of the Shrew or A Midsummer Night's Dream. The latter seems particularly fitting for the occasion. Surprise! The Girl Scouts and their chaperones will not only get to go shopping at Harrods, they'll enjoy a free afternoon tea, courtesy of the world-famous department store. Keep those pinkies in, ladies! Transportation Destination Europe 800/359-3876, 1800flyeurope.com Swiss Rail sbb.ch Lodging London St. Paul's Youth Hostel 011-44/20-7236-4965, yha.org.uk, from $36 Activities Original London Sightseeing Tour 011-44/20-8877-1722, theoriginaltour.com, from $29 for adults, $18 under 16 London Walks 011-44/20-7624-9255, walks.com, $8-$10 National Gallery 011-44/20-7747-2885, nationalgallery.org.uk Cabinet War Rooms 011-44/20-7930-6961, cwr.iwm.org.uk, $19, $15 students, free under 16 St. Martin-in-the-Fields 011-44/20-7766-1100, smitf.org Shakespeare's Globe Theatre shakespeares-globe.org, from $9 Open Air Theatre openairtheatre.org, from $18 Shopping Topshop 36-38 Great Castle St., 011-44/20-7636-7700 Harrods 87-135 Brompton Rd., 011-44/20-7730-1234, harrods.com, afternoon tea $35 How Was Your Trip? "Katie really felt like she got to live like a New Yorker for a few days," says Sean McCarthy, who planned a surprise visit to the Big Apple for his wife with our help (the couple is pictured in Central Park). "She was all smiles throughout the trip."

RECREATION Local event listing websites Flavorpill.net Hundreds of events in six cities that'll appeal to young urban sophisticates LABrainTerrain.com Focuses on intellectual happenings in Los Angeles MyOpenBar.com Doles out the latest nightlife info, drink specials and hipster parties in four cities LaughingSquid.com Recommendations for the San Francisco Bay area NonsenseNYC.com Guide to New York's most progressive, under-the-radar happenings OhMyRockness.com A roster of small-venue concerts available for three cities Restaurants for those with fath-based dietary restrictions Zabihah.com Online guide for Muslims, where anyone can review restaurants that are halalShamash.org For Jews keeping kosher, it lists nearly 2,700 restaurants in 50-plus countries Kids' Camps Directory Kidscamps.com Kids camps directory organized by category, everything from weight loss to rafting camps Theme Parks Themeparkinsider.com Consumer guide to world's best theme and amusement parks, includes safety ratings, reviews, and hotels listings Cooking Classes Directory Cookforfun.shawguides.com Guide to recreational cooking and wine schools world-wide Theater Discounts Home.nyc.rr.com NYC guide to discount tickets Last-minute Golf Reservations Click4teetimes.com Discounts on golf tee times in Southern California Lastminutegolfer.com Become a member and access last minute tee times in North America Teetimesamerica.com Book tee times in the U.S. Turn your vacation photos into postcardsHazelMail.com ROMANCE Honeymoons & Weddings Distinctivehoneymoons.com Honeymoon registry and planning Gaelaweddings.com Honeymoon travel registry service Honeyluna.com Honeymoon travel registry service Italyweddings.com Weddings in Italy Lovetripper.com Romantic travel, honeymoons, destination weddings Thebigday.com Honeymoon travel registry, tips, resources, and links Thehoneymoon.com Honeymoon travel registry, deals, and tips Travelersjoy.com Honeymoon travel registry service Usembassy.it Official site of the US Embassy in Italy Weddingsolutions.com Wedding planning, resources, etc. GOOFING OFF Engrish.com Botched English signs, clothes, slogans and more in foreign countries Koalanet.com Dictionary of Australian slang Thebathroomdiaries.com Stories from the best and worst bathrooms in the world Yellowarrow.net A community of artists and travelers that's filling the world with yellow arrows--literally