A Trek of the Himalayas

In the vast courtyard of the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, before a giant statue of the late dictator, hundreds of young people gather as a strident and amplified female voice commands them to pay attention. My heart sinks as I wait for the rally to begin, regretting my decision to come here at all. "Yeow!" screams the loudspeaker, and an earsplitting rock version of Yankee Doodle pierces the air (and my eardrums). The kids are dancing, I realize, boogying with wild gyrations, certainly not in any kind of order, and each dancing alone. I am shocked, then delighted, to see such happy goings-on right in front of the altar to the dour old martinet who brought so much misery to his people in years past. The Republic of China, which we know better as Taiwan, is a real democracy now, and what I had feared might be a vestige police-state rally was in fact a Transport Ministry festival to promote road safety for kids. Booths around the plaza offered information (on first aid, for instance), contests, and prizes. The sponsor's efforts obviously paid off -- though I recently saw thousands of scooters and motorcycles in the streets of Taipei, I noted not a single rider or passenger without a helmet, including a tiny poodle on a scooter with its old master, mistress, and young master, all wearing matching headgear. The kids at the memorial, the family on the scooter, and adults dining at outdoor markets were representative of dozens of people who called out to me during my last visit, mostly just, "Hello" but sometimes, "Have a nice day" and even, "Are you hungry?" as I gazed at their plates. To the American visitor, the Taiwanese are extremely friendly. Perhaps because they are diplomatic outcasts, shunned in favor of mainland China, perhaps because Taiwan doesn't get many American leisure visitors . . . whatever the reasons, a lot of people showed they were glad to see me. Taiwan should be more popular with Americans, not only because we are liked there but because the island nation has much to offer. Moreover, it's not expensive. We're not talking "cheapest places on earth" here, but you can find a marvelous two-course lunch for $3, a clean and comfortable hotel room for under $30, and have lunch at one of the nation's best hotels for under $10 or take tea with chamber music at a leading first-class hotel for less than $10. Potent reasons for vacationing in Taiwan Why visit Taiwan? Because you'll experience a real China, as genuine as the one on the mainland but with a few bonuses. In fact, you'll be able to experience through Taiwan's dynamism and daily life some aspects of China that are discouraged on the mainland, such as devotion to Confucianism, strong family affinities, and religious practices no longer encouraged or allowed in China. And you'll encounter, as I did, an affable group of people, quite a few of whom speak English and are only too eager to tell you how proud they are of "their" China. The biggest advantage of visiting Taiwan is that you can get a glimpse of what the mainland could be with a democratic government. Since the end of the Kuomintang dictatorship that ruled the island for 40 years, Taiwan has experienced a surge in freedom of expression and creativity. If Beijing's China were like this, the world would stand back in awe of Chinese achievement. Another bonus is a most delicious aspect of Taiwan's Chinese culture, its food. Based on my own recent experiences and the testimony of many travelers and residents, I can swear you will eat better on this island, on average, than you will in Beijing, Shanghai, or Suchow. You'll find small restaurants better than their counterparts in the Big China across the strait, and fancier ones as good or even better. (The only exception to this is Hong Kong, which still has the best Chinese food on earth, thanks to its chefs' longtime existence under the prosperity and leniency of British rule.) A final plus is Taipei's National Palace Museum, where the greatest collection of Chinese art in the world is maintained. While the newly opened Shanghai Art Museum has its own treasures, the National Palace Museum in Taipei still has it beat by a long shot in terms of the number of astounding pieces available. You could pleasurably spend days here. While anyone wanting to understand the modern world should also visit Beijing's China, that's an entire-and different-story in itself. Getting there Major airlines serving Taipei include EVA Air, China Air Lines, Cathay Pacific, Northwest Airlines and more, and their published round-trip airfares run around $950 from the West Coast, and $1,300 from New York. But consolidators -- and budget tourists should always use consolidators (discounters) -- have seats to Taipei for as low as $700 to $750 round-trip from New York and $539 to $650 from the West Coast, often sinking to even lesser levels (occasionally to a rock-bottom $650 from New York and $500 from the West Coast). These or similar prices are available from Air Travel Discounts (tel. 212/922-1326), using China Air Lines, Korean Air Lines, and Cathay Pacific; Tour East Holidays (212/964-6530) using China Airlines, EVA Air, and other major carriers; Travel-Link (310/445-7705), Travel Shoppe of America (310/247-8995), and Travel International (310/327-5143), all using the very same well-known carriers. The chief attractions Taiwan's capital city, Taipei, has the major sights, which begin with the awesome National Palace Museum (see below) but also include the busy streets of the more traditionally Asian northwestern sector of the city (especially around Tihua Street), the famous night markets (I prefer the older Huahsi to the modernized Shihlin), an amazing selection of restaurants, and many traditional structures. The latter include the venerable Lungshan Temple, with its separate Buddhist and Taoist altars to Kwan Yin (goddess of mercy) and Matsu (goddess of the sea); the fascinating Lin An-tai House, a good example of a rich property-owner's abode; and the aforementioned Chiang Kai-shek Memorial, particularly on Sundays, when there is bound to be some kind of activity there. The Champs-Elysees of Taipei is Chung Shan North Road, a tree-lined boulevard flanked by tall, modern buildings and fronted by elegant shops, luxury hotels, and power-status businesses. Just behind the avenue, though, on either side, are little lanes crammed with older buildings, moderately priced restaurants, and small shops, evocative of an earlier time. For getting around, a taxi ride of even a half hour's duration costs only NT$90 ($2.90). There are more than 38,000 taxis in Taipei, more than double the number of cabs in New York City, where the population is itself more than double that of Taipei! Your budget-priced lodgings Affected by a recent downturn in Taiwan's economy, the current asking price for rooms is almost universally 20 percent less than the published rates of hotels. I've quoted the discounted rates below, which are the "walk-in" rates, so don't settle for higher quotes if you try to reserve ahead. If you really are a walk-in, you can sometimes get 30 percent off. You'll want to stay, I firmly believe, in the northwest quadrant of Taipei, the older part of the city, where most of the important sights are and where you can experience a feeling of the classic China. And in a moderate price bracket (I'll quote cheaper properties below), you'll surely like the Hotel Leofoo, 168 Changchun Road, tel. 2507-3211, fax 2508-2070, an older property full of Chinese character and beautifully situated in the heart of the Old Town, where it charges NT$2,400 ($77) for a double room, including breakfast for two. Though the Leofoo is ten stories high and has 232 rooms, it feels more "Old China" than its nearby competitors. Runner-up and more expensive at NT$3,800 ($122.79) per double room is the Taipei Fortuna Hotel, 122 Chung Shan North Road, Section 2, tel. 2563-1111, fax 2561-9777, e-mail fortuna@ms9.hinet.net; taipei-fortuna.com.tw, with its 14 floors and 304 rooms of first-class ultramodern amenities, including three restaurants (one revolving), a health club, and more. And consider the Hotel Capital, 187 Changchun Road, tel. 2507-0168, fax 2507-4620, another modern property with 11 floors and a lobby waterfall. When I last stopped in, the Capital offered me a 30 percent discount, making the twin room rate NT$3,040 ($98). In the budget category ($45 to $59 per room), my own favorite is the Kilin Hotel, 103 Kangding Road, tel. 2331-8133, fax 2314-7070, on a busy commercial street of old shops and various businesses and close to the popular Lungshan Temple; it has two restaurants and 154 slightly old-fashioned but clean rooms at NT$2,200 ($71) per double, tax and service charge not included. Try, alternately, the Green Peak, 18 Lane 77, Chung Shan North Road, Section 2, tel. 2511-2611, fax 2563-8765, a modest six-floor building housing both the hotel and an excellent Taiwanese restaurant (separate entrance), with 45 small but comfortable rooms starting at NT$1,980 ($64) for a twin. In the rock-bottom category (under $40 per double room) are several pleasant spots: The Royal, 5-1 Hwaining Street, is located next door to the Paradise (see above) and is a neighbor to the excellent Shang Ping restaurant (see below). Phone them at 2311-1668, fax 2331-7299, and expect to pay NT$1,250 ($40) for a big double bed, NT$1,460 ($47) for twins. Gwo Shiuan, 10 Jinjou Street, tel. 2521-5205, fax 2551-8006, has a good location near the pricier Fortuna and 56 tiny rooms from as low as NT$1,170 ($38). There's also the Paradise, adjoining the Royal, at 7 Hwaining Street, tel. 2331-3311, fax 2381-3586, with a gloomy lobby but adequate rooms renting from NT$900 ($29). Finally, there's the reliable Taipei Hostel, 11 Lane 5, Lin Shen North Road (6th floor), tel. 2395-2950, fairly clean and very bright, charging only NT$250 to $550 ($8 to $17.77) for its dorm beds and rooms, respectively. Budget dining in Taipei One of Taiwan's chief delights is an abundance of different styles of Chinese cuisine, especially in Taipei, reflecting not only the influx in 1949 of mainland Chinese from every part of the country but a determined effort by these Chinese regional groupings to preserve their culture in all its aspects. Most Chinese restaurants do not have English-language menus, but many display photos of their dishes so that you can point and pick in the event that you and your waiter or the owner can't communicate with words. To economize, look for the business lunch -- main course, soup, tea, and rice often for only NT$200 ($6.45). I quote lunch prices below, dinner being about 20 percent higher, maximum, in my experience. Remember that pork and chicken are cheaper, beef (imported) and seafood more costly. A first regional choice: for the hearty cuisine associated with Shanghai, visit Shang Ping, 1 Hwaining Street (next door to Keyman's Hotel), where shredded beef and green pepper are NT$198 ($6.40), pork with garlic NT$188 ($6), and steamed or fried tofu NT$158 ($5.10). For Beijing-style cuisine, try Celestial, a well-known spot at 1 Nanking West Road (2nd-4th floors, 2563-2171), where shredded pork with vegetables costs NT$200 ($6.45), beef with scallions NT$220 ($7), green onion cake NT$25 (80¢), and dumplings only NT$12 (40¢) each. For Hunan food, try Charming Garden, 16 Nanking East Road, Section 1 (2521-4131), for its famously spicy dishes; and for Cantonese, Ya Yuen Seafood Restaurant, 26 Changchun Street, 2nd floor (2543-5513), where deep-fried grouper balls with pickle sauce run NT$190 ($6.10), as does sauteed shredded pork with vegetables. Elsewhere, Mongolian barbecue, a wonderful do-it-yourself process, can be had at Tan Kung, 283 Sungchiang Road, 2nd floor (2502-6762), featuring all you can eat for NT$299 ($9.65). You pick the raw ingredients at a bar (English-language signs denote pork, beef, lamb, veal, and vegetables), which are then cooked for you. Chinese culture As we said earlier, perhaps the most important reason to visit Taiwan is the National Palace Museum, containing the single best collection of Chinese art in the world. Brought from Beijing just before the Communists captured it in 1949, these works of art are from the Forbidden City and were once the property of the emperors of China. There are excellent guided audio tours in English, with good English booklets and maps at the information desk to the left, just inside the entrance, as well as English-language tours at 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. Admission: NT$80 ($2.50). Take buses 255 or 304 to reach the famous museum. And bear in mind that frequently changing exhibits of Chinese art are also presented at the Taipei Fine Arts Museum, 181 Chung Shan North Road, Section 3 (2595-7656), and at the American Institute in Taiwan (AIT) Cultural Center, 54 Nanhai Road, Monday through Friday from 9:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturdays from noon to 6. At the National Fu Hsing Dramatic Arts Academy, you can see a Chinese opera such as the Drama of the White Snake following an explanatory film in English every Monday and Thursday from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. The cost is NT$400 ($12.90). You get to the academy, at 177 Neihu Road, Section 2, by taxi, about NT$200 ($6.45) from downtown Taipei, or by city bus 247 or 287 from the main railway station. You can try to learn Mandarin Chinese in private lessons at NT$350 per hour ($11.30) or in small groups at NT$200 per hour ($6.45) starting every Monday or Tuesday at My School, 126-8 Hsin Sheng South Road, Section 1, 2nd floor (2321-7826, fax 2394-5750). Evening entertainment On a recent visit, no fewer than four venues -- the National Theatre, National Concert Hall, Recital Hall, and Experimental Theater -- presented 64 different events in music and dance over a one-month period, ranging from Taiwanese opera to the Philadelphia Orchestra to the Zen Dance Theatre to a "Gala Concert for Flutes." And there are night tours of Taipei offered by Edison Travel (2563-5313) for a reasonable NT$1,200 ($38.80), considering that the price includes a full Mongolian barbecue dinner, visits to the Lungshan Temple and the Hwahsi Night Market, and a night view from atop the Taipei Observatory. Side trips If you have the extra time, you might enjoy a day trip from Taipei to Danshuei, a typical small Taiwanese village full of history, to the northwest of the capital, on the ocean. It can be reached easily in about 40 minutes on the MRT rail system from Taipei's main station, and trains run every six to eight minutes. A second day trip might be to Sanshia, just one hour south of Taipei, where an army of artists and construction workers has for years been rebuilding the Sanshia Tzushr Temple in traditional style, the work still not quite finished but dramatic enough to make this trip worthwhile. Also an hour away, at Lungtan, is "Window on China," the second-largest collection of miniature structures in the world (after Holland's Madurodam), displaying famous sites from all over the world, including China's Great Wall and Forbidden City. The best public transport here is by the Taiwan Bus Company, departing frequently from the Far Eastern Department Store on Paoching Road or on Gueiyang Street near Soochow University's downtown campus. Simply scanning the street scene is an endless source of fascination. The area code for Taiwan is 886, and the city code for Taipei is 2. To reach any Taipei number from the United States, dial 011-886-2, then the numbers we've listed. The rate of exchange in this article is NY$31 to one U.S .dollar.

Just 60 miles and a 90-minute drive west of Philadelphia lies Lancaster County, a wrinkle in time where life seems to have remained unchanged since the Revolutionary War. This is Amish country, where many folks still get about by horse-drawn buggy, speak a dialect of medieval German, eschew modern conveniences such as phones and electricity, and plow their fields behind lumbering teams of Clydesdales. Amish men wear buttonless black suits, broad-brimmed hats, and Abe Lincoln beards; the women don white prayer coverings over their hairbuns and aprons over their modestly long, patternless dresses. Dutch Country still exists in the modern world, of course; you will see far more cars than buggies, and housing developments encroach on farmland. But the Pennsylvania Dutch and their strong respect for tradition have helped keep large swaths of Lancaster County seemingly suspended in a bubble of time. Sheep and Holsteins dot the patchwork fields, whitewashed farmhouses and barns cap the low rises, and covered bridges help the two-lane roads cross meandering valley streams. Mass tourism has, of course, discovered the Dutch Country, and tour buses clog Rt. 30 from Memorial Day to Labor Day (worst on weekends and in August). But thankfully, tours stick to the overdeveloped main routes (30 and 340), unloading the buses only at warehouse-sized quilt shops and overpriced smorgasbord restaurants. When you go, avoid roads with route numbers and get lost on the country lanes carving through the lush farmscape. Turn down driveways with hand-painted signs advertising homemade goods to bargain with a farmer's wife for one of the patterned quilts piled high on the beds in an upstairs room (quilts will run $400 to $700, but you can get potholders for $2). Pause at roadside stands as much to make conversation as to buy the homemade root beer and shoo-fly pies (a toothachingly sweet treacle tart). Stop into family-style farm restaurants for heaping platters of hearty home cooking at communal tables. Drive at buggy speed to see life at an Amish pace and better appreciate why they choose this simple but rewarding lifestyle. Though Rt. 30 will get you here from downtown Philadelphia, it's clogged with truck traffic and is the least scenic road in the county. The Pennsylvania Turnpike (Exit 22 or 21) makes for a faster trip to Dutch Country. The regional tourist office is on the outskirts of Lancaster at 501 Greenfield Rd., at the Rt. 30 exit (800/324-1518; padutchcountry.com and 800padutch.com). There's also a Mennonite Information Center at 2209 Millstream Rd., just east of Lancaster off Rt. 30 (717/299-0954). Who are the Amish? What's a Mennonite? Encouraged by William Penn's open invitation to persecuted religious groups, various sects of Christian Anabaptists-Mennonites and offshoots such as the Amish and the Brethren-emigrated from Germany and Switzerland to fertile Lancaster County starting in the 1720s. Close to 40 different groups of Pennsylvania Dutch (a corruption of Deutsch, German for German) thrive here today, from the most conservative of Old Order Amish and Mennonites to more liberal, progressive groups of both sects that few outsiders can tell apart from their Methodist neighbors. Though Anabaptists now make up only about 10 percent of Lancaster County's 466,000 inhabitants, theirs is far from a dying culture. In fact, the Old Order Amish population has actually doubled over the past two decades to about 18,000. Whether Old Order or liberal, all groups stress family, community, modesty, hard work, and faith - though they believe church membership should be by choice, so only adults can be "baptized again" (what "Anabaptist" means) into the church. Most practice nonviolence and mutual aid, from the famous communal barn-raisings to caring for their elderly outside of the social security system. Many "Plain People" speak three languages: English, High German for worship, and Pennsylvania Dutch (a pidgin medieval German dialect) at home. Old Order groups adhere more strictly to the "plain and simple life" philosophy, wearing those black suits and solid-colored shirts or dresses, and refusing to drive motorized vehicles (cars erode the sense of community by allowing members to stray too far too fast). The "stop and smell the roses of God's creation" outlook of the Old Orders prefers the slowness of a buggy or foot scooter (a few years back they also approved Rollerblades). You, too, can see the country roads at a horse's trot on a half-hour, $10 (kids 5-12, $5) buggy ride with Aaron and Jessica's, Rt. 340 between Intercourse and Bird-in-Hand (717/768-8828; 800padutch.com/aaron.hmtl); or Abe's, Rt. 340 west of Bird-in-Hand, 2596 Old Philadelphia Pike (717/392-1794). Ed's, on Rt. 896 north of Strasburg, 253 Hartman Bridge Road in Ronks (717/687-0360), does them for $7. One note: Always ask before photographing someone - the Old Orders especially take the biblical injunction against graven images very seriously. Exploring Pennsylvania Dutch Country The bustling mercantile city of Lancaster (cityoflancasterpa.com) is the capital of the Dutch Country. Its Central Market is the nation's oldest farmers market (est. 1730s), open Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday in a Victorian redbrick at the heart of town, where Queen and King Streets cross (717/291-4739). Next door is the free Heritage Center Museum, with exhibits on Anabaptist and other local cultures (717/299-6440; closed Sun-Mon and Jan-April). On the west side of town lies Wheatland, the stately 1828 Federal-style mansion once home to President James Buchanan (1120 Marietta Ave/Rt. 23; 717/392-8721; wheatland.org; $5.50, $1.75 for kids 6-11). Just north of town lies one of the Dutch Country's top sights, the Landis Valley Museum, a preserved farming community whose 18 buildings represent a range of Dutch Country styles from the 1700s and 1800s. They're filled with some 75,000 objects of daily life, and host costumed demonstrations on the lifestyles and practices of Pennsylvania Germans (off Rt. 272, 2451 Kissel Hll Road, Lancaster; 717/569-0401; landisvalleymuseum.org; $7; closed Jan-Feb). There's an excellent new interpretive center on Anabaptist life, history, and culture in Intercourse called The People's Palace, with a highly informative museum and a 20-minute slide show on the Amish (Rt. 340, 3513 Old Philadelphia Pike; 800/390-8436; closed Sun; $4 each for museum or slide presentation, $7 for both). Strasburg takes its railroad heritage very seriously. There is the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania (Rt. 741; 717/687-8628; rrmuseumpa.org; open limited hours Nov-Apr, check website; $6, $4 kids 6-12); the National Toy Train Museum (717/687-8976; traincollectors.org; closed Jan-Mar and weekdays Apr, Nov, and Dec; $3); and its competitor, Choo Choo Barn (Rt. 741E; 717/687-7911; choochoobarn.com; closed Jan-Mar; $4, $2 kids 5-12). The Strasburg Railroad offers trips to Paradise-45-minutes round-trip-in a nineteenth-century steam train (717/687-7522; strasburgrailroad.com; Dec-Mar weekends only; $8.50-$12.75 depending on train car). Head to Lititz (lititizpa.com) for some edible history. Tour the Sturgis Pretzel House and learn to roll this traditional German snack in America's first pretzel bakery, est. 1861 (219 East Main St. (717/626-4354; sturgispretzel.com; $2). At Wilbur Chocolate's Candy Americana Museum and Store you can see historical chocolate-making paraphernalia and watch the ladies hand-dipping sweets. Ephrata Cloister, outside Ephrata, is the preserved wood-timbered village of one of America's first communes, started in 1732 by an order of Pennsylvania German religious mystics renowned for their music, publishing, and Frakturschriften calligraphy (632 West Main St.; 717/733-6600; $6. $4 kids 6-12; Mon-Sat 9-5, 12-5 Sunday). If you're in the Ephrata area on a Friday, don't miss the massive Green Dragon Farmer's Market & Auction on Rt. 272. Adamstown, at Rt. 272 and Exit 21 of the Turnpike, is jam-packed with Sunday flea markets-such as Renningers (717/385-2177; renningers.com), whose second-hand wares have helped furnish my home - and antiques malls such as Stoudts (717/484-4385; stoudtsbeer.com), behind a fab microbrewery selling rich, German-style brews. It's great sightseeing even if you don't turn up a diamond in the rough amid the bric-a-brac. Amish accommodations Cheap motels line Rt. 30, including Lancaster Motel, between Ronks Rd. and Rt. 896 (717/687-6241; $39-$42). Far more interesting is a stay at a guest-friendly working farm. These usually consist of three or four country - simple rooms with Amish quilts, bucolic vistas, and shared baths. Two dairy farms let you watch the morning milking and help feed the calves. Neffdale Farm is just south of Paradise and closes December to Easter (604 Strasburg Rd./Rt. 741; 717/687-7837; 800padutch.com/neffdale.html; $45-$50). Eby's Pequea Farm offers rooms in an 1814 farmhouse or in modern "Grandma's house," around the bend, overlooking a covered bridge. The Ebys can arrange a unique dinner/history lesson at their Amish neighbor's for just $12 (459A Queen Rd. just north of Rt. 30 in Gordonville; 717/768-3615; $55-$65). Groff Farm House, between Gap and Kinzer, has cozy doubles plus a sunny $50 family room sleeping four (766 Brackbill Rd.; turn left off Rt. 30 at Stagecoach Motel; 717/442-8223; $35). If you prefer your B&B without livestock, Lydia Lantz's Clearwood is like staying at your Amish granny's, with religious admonishments posted in the simple rooms - all shared baths except for one efficiency apartment with kitchenette and private bath for $45 (494 Compass Rd. in Gap, one mile south of intersection of Rts. 340 and 10; 717/442-8229; $35). At the intersection of Rts. 340 and 896 in Smoketown, check out comfy Smoketown Village Guest House (2495 Old Philadelphia Pike; 717/393-5975; $32-$38); or the slightly classier Old Road Guest Home (2501 Old Philadelphia Pike; 717/393-8182; proclaim.net/oldroadguesthome; $39-$55). In train-obsessed Stroudsburg you can even stay in a bona fide converted caboose at The Red Caboose; kids love the idea - and the buggy rides and little petting zoo (717/687-5000; redcaboosemotel.com; $39-$85). MennoniteEats The Pennsylvania Dutch farm the land with their muscles and sweat, so they require huge, German-hearty meals heavy on the meat (sausages, ham loaf, fried chicken, chicken potpie), carbohydrates (mac and cheese, mashed potatoes, buttered noodles, bread slathered with apple butter), and vegetables (beans, sweet dried corn, chow chow pickled veggies). You, too, can feast Amish-style, but steer clear of widely advertised, overpriced, "tour buses welcome" smorgasbords like Miller's, and search out a genuine farm atmosphere. At Amish-run Stoltzfus Farm Restaurant you'll find long common tables laden with platter after platter of all-you-can-eat PA Dutch specialties for just $14. They actually seem disappointed if you're too stuffed for seconds (3716A East Newport Rd. in Gordonville; 717/768-8156; closed Dec-Mar, and weekdays Apr & Nov). Isaac's Deli is a mini local chain charging $2.60-$6.95 for its remarkable sandwiches and real homemade soups (my recent chicken and vegetable was a genuine chicken stock laden with hunks of white and dark meat and farm-fresh veggies). Its locations include: 44 North Queen St., Lancaster (717/394-5544); 555 Greenfield Rd. near the visitors center, Lancaster (717/393-6067); in The Shops at Traintown on Rt. 7412 East, Strasburg (717/687-7699); and in the Cloister Shopping Center (Rt. 272, 120 N. Reading Rd., Ephrata; 717/733-7777). Famed 1950s Zinn's Diner looks like a tourist trap with its giant Amish Farmer out front, but you'll hear as many customers speaking Pennsylvania Dutch as English. Breakfast platters are $2-$4, sandwiches $2.35-$4, and entrees just $6.75-$10.25 (2270 North Park Rd./Rt. 272, one block north of the turnpike at Exit 21; 717/336-2210).

There's plenty of room to stretch your legs in New Mexico. America's fifth largest state is also one of its least densely populated. The core destinations - artsy Santa Fe, outdoorsy Taos, and up-and-coming Albuquerque - offer incredibly close access to pristine wilderness. You can be skiing, cycling, hiking, and or shooting magnificent nature photos within a short drive of the capitol building in Santa Fe (which, at 7,200 feet, is the highest capital in America). But don't overlook New Mexico's indoor diversions - there's not a decent-size town in the state that doesn't have at least a few prominent art galleries, and Santa Fe is the third-largest art market in the country. Spas (with a decidedly holistic, New Age-y bent), adobe inns, and restaurants specializing in everything from fiery green-chile stew to blue-corn pancakes also keep visitors coming back for more. New Mexico has no down time - just four gentle seasons abundant with sunshine and dry, clear air. There's a lot to cover in the Land of Enchantment, and I can tell you the most about Santa Fe, Taos, and Albuquerque, but feel free to ask travel questions on just about any town in the state, and on any subject - short hikes, affordable B&Bs, scenic drives, day spas, swanky nightclubs, antiques shopping, sushi. I'm even prepared to reveal some of New Mexico's best-kept secrets...just don't tell the locals you heard any of this from me. Andrew will be answered your questions Tuesday, March 30, at noon EST. Having traveled all over the country since becoming a travel writer in 1991, Andrew Collins moved to Santa Fe in 2000, drawn by the great four-season climate, stunning mountain views, and big-city sophistication and culture but small-city personality. He's since traveled just about every inch of the state, contributing articles on New Mexico to Budget Travel, Out Traveler, Travel + Leisure, Sunset, and New Mexico Magazine, as well as contributing to numerous guidebooks for Fodor's. He's also the author of Moon Handbooks Connecticut, Moon Handbooks Rhode Island, and the recently published Moon Handbooks New Orleans, and he teaches an online travel-writing course for New York City's acclaimed Gotham Writers' Workshop. _______________________ Andrew Collins: Hi there, thanks for joining me. I'm ready to answer your questions about Santa Fe and the rest of New Mexico. _______________________ Bakersfield, CA: If I wanted to see all of what New Mexico had to offer, from north to south and east to west, what hot spots would you not miss on a week-long New Mexico road trip? Andrew Collins: New Mexico is a big enough state that you might not want to see all four corners of it in one week. However, a good strategy is to focus on Rio Grande Valley, which runs north to south from Taos all the way down to Las Cruces. Give yourself a night in Taos, a couple of nights in Santa Fe, and a night in Albuquerque - there's half your week, and these cities are all within fairly easy drives of each other. From Albuquerque, head south on I-25 about three hours to Las Cruces (NM's second-largest city), which has a neat "Old Town" area. Spend a night here, and then head east on U.S. 70, stopping at White Sands Nat. Monument and driving up into the state's southern mountains. Spend a night or two in Ruidoso, a delightful and green mountain town - an excellent base for the region. If you still have a final day, continue east on U.S. 70 to Roswell, and then drive south to Carlsbad, a rather sleepy town by itself, but home to the famous Carlsbad Caverns National Park. That's one very busy and action-packed week, but this itinerary gives you a great sampling of what to see and do in New Mexico. _______________________ Durham, NH: What are the "don't miss" restaurants in Sante Fe? Andrew Collins: For traditional New Mexico fare, which truly does differ from other kinds of Southwestern and Mexico food, book a table at The Shed, a charming little restaurant a couple of blocks east of the historic downtown Plaza. Prices are moderate, and the food authentic. Santa Fe has several upscale, contemporary restaurants where chefs are constantly trying some innovative things - my two favorites are Geronimo and The Compound, both of which are along art-gallery-laden Canyon Road. You may not expect to find outstanding Indian (as in Asian Indian) food in town, but India Palace, a block from the Plaza, is outstanding. I've lived in London and NYC's East Village, both hubs of great Indian restaurants, and this place holds its own. Gabriel's, a bit north of town, is famous for its tableside guacamole and great margaritas. Otherwise, the food is decent - not amazing. But it's loads of fun for appetizers and drinks around sunset. _______________________ Anonymous: Can a retirement home in Santa Fe be afforadable and provide lots of space inside and out? Andrew Collins: By Southwestern U.S. standards, Santa Fe is quite pricey, but by national standards, comparing it with other resort towns, it's about average. House prices hover around $300K, but you can always find more space and land if you're willing to live outside of town a bit, say 20 minutes away. There's a neat community about that distance from downtown Santa Fe called El Dorado, which offers some relatively affordable homes with big yards, big-sky views, and a nice community spirit. Quite a few retirees live there, as well as families and younger couples - it's pretty eclectic. You get much of what Santa Fe has to offer without the extremely high expenses. _______________________ Kingston, NY: I was thinking of taking a vacation to Santa Fe in October, but isn't it too hot in the desert then? Andrew Collins: Actually, Santa Fe sits at 7,000 feet and it's considered "semi-arid" but not desert. Even in the dead of summer, temperatures rarely exceed 90 degrees, and even then, that's during the midday. There's very little humidity. Right now, and similarly in October, average highs are about 60 to 70 degrees - it's wonderful outdoors weather. At night, temperatures drop considerably - often as much as 30 to 40 degrees. Even on July evenings, you can end up needing a light sweater if you're out strolling after dark. In winter, it can get very cold at night (typically 0 to 20 degrees), but the sun usually warms things up during the day so that it's in the 30s or 40s. Taos is even a bit cooler, and Albuquerque is typically 10 to 15 degrees warmer, because it's at a considerably lower elevation. In general, there are few parts of the country with a more gentle and moderate climate than Santa Fe. _______________________ Albuqueque, NM: What are the best restaurants for the value in Santa Fe and Albuqueque? I am going there to take my daughter out for her 30th birthday. Thanks! Andrew Collins: In Albuquerque, I'd strongly recommend a restaurant in Nob Hill called Graze - very creative and reasonably priced food. It specializes in "small plates/tapas" type fare, so two people might order seven or eight dishes and share them. In Santa Fe, one of my favorite recommendations for value is Harry's Roadhouse, on Old Las Vegas just southeast of town. It's a funky diner-style place but with a beautiful patio and cozy rooms inside (one has a fireplace). The food is mid-priced and eclectic - from green-chile cheeseburgers to fish tacos to meat loaf to pizzas. _______________________ New Orleans, LA: I know Santa Fe has lots of fancy spas, but what would you suggest for someone who wants to have a pampering/healing weekend, but doesn't have the money for an all-inclusive type place? Is it possible to have any kind of spa experience on a budget? Andrew Collins: Well, doing the Santa Fe spa thing on a budget isn't easy, but here's one strategy: Book a reasonably priced room at any number of B&Bs or hotels that won't cost you a fortune. With the money you've saved, book some spa treatments at Ten Thousand Waves, a serene Japanese-style spa in the foothills on the east side of town. Prices at Ten Thousand Waves aren't terribly steep, but I wouldn't call it a budget experience either. Still, if you keep to a fairly conservative budget for accommodations and meals, a few treatments at Ten Thousand Waves will be perfect. And, no matter how much money you have, few spas in New Mexico rival Ten Thousand Waves when it comes to setting and scenery. _______________________ Van, TX: We are planning a trip to Santa Fe this summer, so I appreciate this opportunity. I have been wondering if it is appropriate, or even expected, to bargain with the Native Americans selling their jewelry and other artwork on the sidewalks of the downtown plaza. And what is your favorite restaurant for authentic southwest Mexican food in Santa Fe or the area nearby? Thank you. Andrew Collins: Yes, it's perfectly appropriate to bargain with Native Americans selling their wares downtown. As long as you're respectful. I'd especially recommend it if you're buying multiple pieces from the same dealer. Personally, I find the prices pretty reasonable already, and the work being sold along the sidewalks in Santa Fe, outside the Palace of the Governors, is absolutely the real deal. So you needn't worry that if you pay full or nearly full price that you're getting ripped off. Even in the fancier stores selling rugs, jewelry, and such, it's not uncommon to bargain a little. As for truly authentic New Mex food, my favorite place is La Choza, a short drive from the Plaza. It's untouristy - a real locals' favorite. Another, although it somewhat lacks personality, is Diego Cafe. It's in a shopping center on the north side of downtown, but the food is totally authentic and wonderfully seasoned. _______________________ Bainbridge Island, WA: Our mostly elderly group of six will be driving a triangle route from Albuquerque to Santa Fe to the Farmington area. Any must see or do recommendations that do not involve too much walking? Andrew Collins: The good news is that the entire region is ideal for road-tripping, and the scenery is spectacular from the car window, or if you pull over, hop out, and take a look around in a few spots. Also, in downtown Santa Fe and Albuquerque's Old Town, you can just park your car and walk around without having to go for miles and miles - sites, museums, and shops are close. Farmington is a bit more spread out. So I would stick to the Plaza in Santa Fe and Old Town in Albuquerque, and if you feel like doing some light walking, head up to Santa Fe's Canyon Road, which is lined with art galleries and makes for a delightful but not terribly strenuous walk. Keep in mind that although Chaco National Historic Site is one of the most impressive attractions en route between Albuquerque and Farmington, it's reached via a long and bumpy dirt road and it involves a bit of walking, so you might want to skip that unless you're up for a bit of an adventure. Otherwise, Chaco is a major highlight for the sort of itinerary you're planning. _______________________ Ajax, Ontario: For travel during the second half of September, should we look for accommodation with air conditioning? Andrew Collins: In Santa Fe, Taos, or other northern communities, no air-conditioning is necessary. In fact, most private homes in northern NM don't even have or need air-conditioning, and many B&Bs don't. In Albuquerque, a/c is a good idea even in late September, as daytime highs can easily be in the 80s or even low 90s. Generally, though, if an accommodation doesn't have air-conditioning in New Mexico, it's because it's not needed most of the year, and certainly not needed in September (note the earlier posting about climate/weather in Santa Fe and environs). _______________________ Salem, MA: Is there much in the way of municipal parking within roughly 5 minutes' walking distance from the Plaza? Or private parking - is it pricey? Or is there bus service to downtown from out on the Cerrillos strip? Andrew Collins: Yes, there are a few municipal parking lots within a block of the Plaza, and they're not terribly expensive - under $10 per day, I believe. Most hotels and inns have free off-street parking, but there are exceptions. There is good bus service along Cerrillos that leads back into town, and bus fare is just 1$ per ride ($2 for an unlimited day pass). If you're really looking to save money and don't want to deal with traffic, this is a good option. Just keep in mind buses only run till 10 on weekdays and till 6 or 7 pm on weekends. But for those few late-night times, you can call a cab. Cab fare in town isn't terribly pricey - probably $7 to $10 from Plaza to hotels along Cerrillos, depending on how far out you go. Actually street parking in Santa Fe is hard to find during busy times, so do keep that in mind. _______________________ Washington, DC: I am going to Santa Fe for Memorial Day weekend. I will be there for 3 nights, 2 full days. I am looking for three things that are must-see or must-do and also where I can find the best food, preferably of the Latin persuasion. Thank you! Andrew Collins: I've touched on food up above, but let me name the three must-see/do things for a longish Santa Fe weekend: Visit Museum Hill, which comprises a four museums, and of these four, definitely hit the Museum of Folk Art and the rather new Museum of Spanish Colonial Art. Hike Tent Rocks, which is New Mexico's newest national monument. It's just south of town in Cochiti and it's a little tricky to find, so just ask locals for directions. This is the best short day hike in the whole region - simply spectacular, and you can manage part of the hike even if you're not in the best shape. To do the entire hike, it takes maybe two hours and does involve an elevation gain of maybe 700 feet. It's just wonderful. The third thing, even though you only have two days, is to make the drive up to Taos if you possibly can make the time. If you go by way of the scenic High Road, and then come back by the more direct Low Road, you can do the whole trip in five hours, allowing 90 minutes to windowshop and browse in Taos. If time is tight, skip the Taos drive and instead drive the Turquoise Trail, which runs from Santa Fe to Albuquerque (it's the scenic route, far more interesting than the interstate). This one only takes 90 minutes or so, and there's some great gallery shopping in the tiny town of Madrid, along the way. Just be sure to set aside at least one afternoon for a scenic drive somewhere - it's hard to go wrong in this part of the state. Just about any major route out of Santa Fe offers plenty of great scenery. _______________________ Gulf Shores, AL: I'd like to experience some of the beautiful terrain up close, but I'm not looking to rough it completely by camping out. Are there any day hikes or walking trails you'd recommend? Andrew Collins: In addition to Tent Rocks, mentioned in the previous post, two great options for day hikes are Bandelier National Monument, about 30 minutes northwest of town near Los Alamos. Here you'll find both easy and challenging trails, some of which pass by fascinating Native American ruins. And, just a 10-minute drive from the Santa Fe Plaza, head to the very far end of Upper Canyon Road. Here you'll find an Audubon Center with great trails for bird-watching and seeing plantlife. And right next door practically is the trailhead for a huge nature conservancy property, and this leads to the Dale Ball Trail Network, which connects numerous trails in the city's east-side foothills. You can get very close to nature in this part of town without having to be an experienced hiker or having to walk for more than a half-mile. _______________________ Providence, RI: Hi there, I am wondering if there are any great places to take a Southwestern cooking class in New Mexico. Also, just got your Rhode Island Handbook and it is probably the most comprehensive book on Rhode Island I've found. Thank you. Andrew Collins: You're welcome, and thanks for the kind words. There are several excellent cooking schools in NM offering classes to visitors. I would recommend either Jane Butel's Southwestern Cooking School, in Albuquerque, or the Santa Fe School of Cooking. Both of these facilities are highly respected, and at both you can take courses where you not only learn about cooking but get to sample lots of delicious food. Cooking classes are a wonderful way to get in touch with New Mexico's culture. _______________________ Anonymous: Are there also B&Bs located in the old section of Sante Fe and, if so, where are they located? What are the prices? Thanks. Andrew Collins: Yup, there are several B&B located both in the historic district and in the historic east side of town. B&B prices vary greatly in Santa Fe, but you can generally find something charming (if intimate) for $100 to $125 in some of the historic neighborhoods in town in summer (and for less in fall through spring). Of course, prices can get much higher for larger and fancier digs. Some great options in the historic neighborhoods include (I can vouch for all of these equally): La Tienda Grant Corner Inn El Farolito Inn of the Turquoise Bear Alexander's Inn Pueblo Bonito Don Gaspar Inn _______________________ Baltimore, MD: We are thinking of visiting New Mexico in October. I am very interested in photography and would like to know what are the good photo locations in the state besides the big hot air ballon festival? Andrew Collins: My favorite thing, as strictly an amateur photographer, about New Mexico is that this part of the world makes just about anybody capable of taking stunning photos. You really can't go wrong. Just take some of the scenic drives or hikes I've discussed in previous posts. And try to hit them within two hours of sunrise or sunset. Northern NM has brilliant, clear blue skies and wonderful light, and the adobe architecture and earthy landscape tones make for a great contrast. My absolute favorite hike for photography is Tent Rocks, mentioned earlier. _______________________ Chicago, IL: I'll be traveling with my 5-year-old and my 1-year-old to Santa Fe in June. Any good kids activities, really great playgrounds, etc., you can recommend? Andrew Collins: Alas, Santa Fe is a very adult town - there aren't a ton of kids activities, although the Genoveva Chavez Community Center has a indoor pool and sports facilities that are inexpensive and kid-friendly - it's a beautiful facility. Also, definitely check out the Santa Fe Children's Museum, which is a short drive from the downtown Plaza. They often have entertainment for kids - puppet shows, storytelling, videos, etc. Also, I'd urge you to visit the new Explora Science Center in Albuquerque - a wonderful touch-friendly, kids-oriented museum near Old Town. This place is amazing and lots of fun for kids of all ages. _______________________ New York, NY: Given that many folks combine a trip to Sante Fe with a stop in Taos, can you make some recommendations for dining, staying and sightseeing in Taos? Andrew Collins: For a fairly small town, Taos has a wealth of great cultural and dining activities. Best meals are at Joseph's Table and the Trading Post Cafe, but there are so many other good ones. Orlando's has wonderful New Mexican food, and Byzantium has delicious Middle Eastern Fare. Be sure to spend a couple of hours up in Arroyo Seco, the little village north of Taos en route to the ski valley - some delightful shops there and a cool cafe called Gypsy 360. For museums, start at the new Taos Museum of Art, right in the center of town, which gives a great overview of the town's rich arts scene. And whatever you do, don't miss the Millicent Rogers Museum, on the north side of town...has an amazing stock of Native American and Spanish Colonial arts and crafts. Really a one-of-a-kind collection. _______________________ Miami, FL: What are your favorite luxury hotels in Santa Fe? Andrew Collins: If money is no object, I'd go with the new Inn of the Five Graces in Santa Fe, and El Monte Sagrado Resort in Taos. Both are super-luxurious. And then don't miss Rancho de San Juan, which is about midway between Taos and Santa Fe. These are among the most characterful and sumptuous upscale accommodations in the Southwest. _______________________ Andrew Collins: Thanks for all your great questions. For those of you whose questions I was unable to answer, I hope you'll read some of my previous posts - in many cases I covered material that applied to several of your questions. Hope to see you all in Santa Fe! _______________________

It's true that most prices in the capital of today's cool Britannia are as outrageous as in any other world-class city, but - unsuspected by many - strong competition, a large student population, and thriving ethnic communities have resulted in a surprising bounty of inexpensive dining options. Many are conveniently located in the very heart of town, so you need not stray far from the usual tourist haunts to fill your belly. A short walk from Piccadilly Circus or Leicester Square, in fact, is the budget diner's single most treasured destination: Old Compton Street, with more than a half-dozen wallet-friendly eateries in its immediate vicinity. Trafalgar Square and Chinatown in central London and Bangla Town in East London also offer excellent options, and from there we spin out into quieter neighborhoods for some truly unusual treats. Without further ado, here are ten top picks, in geographical order from central London outward: The Stockpot 18 Old Compton Street, SoHo. Tube: Leicester Square. 20-7/287-1066. Appetizer, entree, and glass of wine from $8.35. Ideally located and astoundingly cheap, this institution on Old Compton Street is hands down the ne plus ultra of London's budget dining. Looking much like a chic cafe with sidewalk tables, stylish lighting, and humorous prints of Britannic fuddy-duddies over the wainscoting, this two-floor joint is always jumping with locals and tourists served by a veritable United Nations of waitpersons. They're quick, they're efficient, and they even change the silverware between courses - a remarkable feat considering prices like $6.05 for a set menu that might pair a hearty vegetable soup with a chicken mushroom pilaf (the entire menu changes daily). A glass of French table wine bumps the bill up by $2.30, and a finale of satiny creme caramel goes for $2.25. Seeing me agonize over the plethora of multiculti a la carte selections, Carlos, the bartender from Madrid, recommended the penne in cream sauce with spring onions and mushrooms ($4.90). A wise choice, it turned out, delightfully smooth and not heavy at all. Ditto the appetizer of mushrooms with tartar sauce ($2.99): light, tasty, not oily, and served with lettuce, tomato, and cucumber (in effect, a free salad on the side). Note that while the other Stockpot locations are independent franchises and there is no common menu, all branches hew to a good-food-for-a-good-price credo. On King's Road (273 Kings Road, 20-7/823-3175); Piccadilly Circus (38 Panton Street, 20-7/839-5142); and Knightsbridge (6 Basil Street, 20-7/589-8627). Presto Restaurant 4-6 Old Compton Street, SoHo. Tube: Leicester Square. 20-7/437-4006. Entree with potatoes, side vegetable, and glass of wine from $10.20. If someone were to design a hell for Martha Stewart, this homely diner could be its commissary: a sea of orange Formica booths, orange plastic light fixtures, and fakey-brown ceiling beams. The mostly Italian food, on the other hand, draws a steady stream of regulars who swear by the plain but hearty cooking. Take, for example, my own most recent repast, served at a prime table overlooking the lively street action: a competent rendition of chicken Kiev served with chips (french fries, of course; all entr,es come with 'em) for $7.45; a side of the ever-present green peas for $1.50; and an apple crumb with custard for $3.05. The total bill came to exactly $12.40, and frankly, I was stuffed. There are less expensive options on the menu, too, like 20 or so entrees priced around $6.05 (think gnocchi with four cheeses, chicken and mushroom risotto, or tagliatelle with cream, mushrooms, and spinach). For something a little more English, you can try the liver and bacon special at $8.40, and the fish is quite well-priced too: fried cod or plaice (a whitefish) runs $5.95, and grilled trout costs $9.90. Homesick Yanks can even score a Snapple here for $2.50 or a glass of house wine for $3.30. Mr. Wu Chinese Restaurant Hot Buffet 56 Old Compton Street, SoHo. Tube: Leicester Square. 20-7/494-0032. All-you-can-eat buffet for $7.45, lunch and dinner. For a couple of years now, friends had been warning me about old Mr. Wu, promising a fate worse than dysentery if I should hazard his wares; after all, what kind of all-you-can-eat slop could he serve in overpriced London for $7.45 at both lunch and dinner? (None of them, mind you, had actually ever tried it.) Ever the intrepid (not to say cheap) gastronome, I recently ventured into the bright, smallish dining room done up in a spare black-and-white color scheme and approached the round buffet table laden with big steel pots. Several customers-both Chinese and "Western barbarians" - were happily loading up, so I took that for a good sign and dug in, piling my plate high with appetizers (fried wontons and the ungreasiest spring rolls I have ever had); several entrees like curried chicken, sweet and sour pork, and beef with chili peppers; plus good old carbs like fried noodles with bean sprouts (scrumptious!) and egg fried rice. This place, in other words, is not for waist-watchers. Don't ask me how Mr. Wu does it, but the merchandise tastes fresh, and considering the speedy service and unbeatable prices, his four London restaurants offer serious pigging out for the pound (as for my friends' dire intestinal predictions, they were happily off-base). The Moon Under Water Free House 105-107 Charing Cross Road, SoHo. Tube: Leicester Square. 20-7/287-6039. Two meals for $9.95, or entree with two sides plus drink from $9.35. It's not often that a place is both trendy and cheap, but this hip and funky bar/restaurant manages both with panache. Spanning a city block with a curvaceous aqua-blue couch that seems to go on forever under ceilings tarted up with baroque flourishes and neon, this place is as much about people-watching as it is about drinks (beer and shots start at $2.99; drink specials like $1.65 for a bottle of Beck's are posted from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.) and food (an all-day "two meals for 9.95" deal, Friday and Saturday till 8 p.m. only). You and your co-diner can choose from ten different Anglo-international entrees such as Swedish meatballs, mint-laced lamb burger, or breaded plaice. The regular menu is also reasonable, with meals ranging from $7.70 for a fillet of haddock served with the inevitable fries and peas, to $9.35 for half a roast chicken with peas and potatoes; a hearty salad fattens the bill by $3.75. None of it is Michelin-star material, of course, but it's pretty darn good for the price, and you'd also be hard-pressed to find as many pretty faces to dine with anywhere else. Diana's Diner 39 Endell Street, Covent Garden. Tube: Covent Garden. 20-7/240-0272. Entree, drink, and dessert from $10.30. No, this tiny gem of a joint isn't trying to cash in on the Princess Di funerary craze of not so long ago. Anglo-Portuguese chef and owner Antonio Santos' place has lasted on the scene for 32 years, and with good reason: the Anglo-Italian food, the prices, and the lively crowd occupying a dozen tables in a cozy paneled room crammed with theater posters (in warm weather, a handful of tables spill out onto the pretty street). On a recent visit, I settled on a steak-and-kidney pie served with chips and peas ($7.45) - nice and homey, like my mom might have made if she were my mum. Afterward I treated my palate to a $2.99 serving of apple pie and ice cream, bringing my bill to $11.75, including a can of soda. There are prices both higher and lower, too, ranging from $6.20 for spaghetti with tomato and basil to $9.10 for halibut marinara. Another great deal, served all day (late risers, take note), is the $5.79 "English breakfast" consisting of two eggs, bacon, sausage, baked beans, two slices of toast, and tea or coffee. Cafe in the Crypt Church of St.-Martin-in-the-Fields, Trafalgar Square. Tube: Charing Cross. 20-7/839-4342. Entree, side, salad, and drink from $10.20. If you've ever wanted to dine on top of dead people, look no further than this unique cafeteria-style eatery set in an actual cross-vaulted crypt with black chairs and tables sprawled over long-dead souls buried under the marble floor (I myself lunched recently over "Mr. Andries Baron Who Departed this Life Sep. 19, 1777 Aged 57 Years"). Creepy? Maybe, but the simple English-oid food is good and the proceeds benefit the restoration of the famous but plainish Anglican church above. Daily specials are the thing here, like a plate of Cumberland sausages and onion gravy served with a choice of rice or potatoes and fresh vegetables or salad - truly a mouthful, and all for $10.10. I opted for the second special: roast vegetables (surprisingly cooked al dente, crisp and wonderful) in tomato and thyme sauce, with the same choice of sides, for only $9.10. A glass of house wine bulks up the tab by $4.10, so I grabbed a soft drink for $1, along with a helping of gateaux (little cakes) for $3.25. On the way out, check out the small modern art gallery and the London Brass Rubbing Centre, where you can make impressions of ancient bas-reliefs to hang on your wall back home. Your kids will love it, and prices are not too outrageous, ranging from $4.80 for "sheep safely grazing" to $9.80 for a magnificent "King Richard the Lionheart crushing a lion on his tippy-toes" (children get an additional $1.50 price reduction). The Chandos Pub 29 St. Martin's Lane, Covent Garden. Tube: Charing Cross. 20-7/836-1401. Entree with two sides and drink, for about $12.26. No visit to London is complete without a pub stop, though the recent trend to spiff up these age-old social institutions has made it just a tad trickier for the budget traveler. Fortunately, the Chandos has managed to keep its prices well below the stratosphere, especially considering the fancy digs and central location just off Trafalgar Square. Look for the pretty corner building with the elaborate hanging flowerpots that mark the front of just about every London pub. Downstairs, a cozy old-style bar serves beer starting at $2.65 for a pint of domestic Samuel Smith, while upstairs the lovely dining rooms (named for the nearby opera house) are decked out in chintz, paneled wainscoting, and opera-themed prints. Most entrees are priced around $9.90 and come with a choice of new potatoes or chips, and vegetables or salad; on my last visit I wavered between the steak-and-ale pie (cooked in beer gravy and topped with puff pastry) and the bangers (Cumberland sausages) and mash - then ended up splurging on the fish and chips, a large fillet of cod served with fries and garden peas for $11.50. It was well worth the extra cash, as the fish was fresh, light, and flaky, and the fried spuds were likewise crisp and oil-free. Finally, a fun option at the Chandos is the veddy civilized afternoon tea ($6.50), served daily from 3 to 5 p.m.: a pot of the caffeinated infusion, two scones, jam, and clotted cream. Covent Garden Buffet 92-93 St. Martin's Lane, Covent Garden. Tube: Leicester Square. 20-7/836-5398. All-you-can-eat buffet $9.60. No credit cards. The very concept of a vegetarian Italian restaurant may seem unusual enough, but just to take it an extra step, this 20-year-old eatery is also an all-you-can-eat buffet. Not that meat-lovers would suffer: there is always one carne (usually fowl) on the table, and the rest of the ten pasta and vegetable dishes are good enough to make you forget the pleasures of the flesh (the ziti with eggplant and tomato sauce actually took me back to a favorite little trattoria in Rome's old Jewish quarter, and the lasagna is practically addictive). Different new dishes are brought out every half-hour, too, keeping the selections fresh and interesting - in all, a remarkable banquet for only $9.60 in a cheerful, pretty space with yellow walls, floral table cloths, and summertime outdoor tables. Drinks and dessert are the low (or should I say high) point on the price list, with a glass of house wine going for $4.65 and an (admittedly yummy) tiramis - for $5.10; but then, who'd have room for dessert after such abbondanza? The Shampan 79 Brick Lane, East London. Tube: Aldgate East. 20-7/375-0475. Three-course early-bird dinner $11.50; otherwise, two courses plus dessert from $10.75. The capital of Queen Victoria's old empire is famous for prime Indian cuisine, and one of the primest nabes for sampling it is Bangla Town, a mostly Bangladeshi neighborhood near the Tower of London (keep in mind that "Indian" cuisine generally encompasses the whole of the subcontinent, including Pakistan and Bangladesh). The heart of this very colorful neighborhood is a quaint street right out of Mary Poppins - except, of course, for the Bengali-style streetlamps and the colorful metal archway. Of the many inexpensive restaurants that line both sides, the Shampan (named for a small riverboat typical of Bangladesh) offers a hard-to-beat combo of good prices, superb food (Bengali and Moghul, the type of Indian most familiar to Westerners), and elegant ambiance (plush and pink, with crystal chandeliers). The early-bird dinner, for example, offers three courses (appetizers like bhaji onion fritters or a prawn cocktail; entrees like spicy lamb, chicken, or vegetable Madras, served with rice or nan bread; and a choice of ice cream or coffee) for $11.50, daily before 7 p.m. Otherwise, most dishes are in the $5-$11.50 range, such as keema, minced lamb cooked in a Kashmiri cast-iron balti pan ($4.65), or fish tomato jhool (a lean Bengali fish known as rahi cooked in light spices), for $11.50. For dessert, try kulfi ($1.60), a smooth concoction of milk, fruit, nuts, and cream, or stop at one of the neat Indian bakeries nearby. Malaysian Hall Canteen 44 Bryanston Square (basement), Marble Arch. Tube: Marble Arch. 20-7/723-9484. Entree, side, and rice plus drink from $4.60. No credit cards. It doesn't get any cheaper than this cafeteria-style smorgasbord of Malaysian delights subsidized by the Malaysian government for its overseas students (but open seven days a week to all and sundry for breakfast, lunch, and dinner). Never had Malaysian before? It's not so different from Thai or other Southeast Asian, emphasizing fresh meats, seafoods, and vegetables in coconut curry and other exotic sauces.