20 Secret Bargains of Oahu for Under $10

By Matthew Link
June 4, 2005
Aloha, cheapskates! A former kama'aina gives us the lowdown on low deals in Honolulu and environs

Having lived in Hawaii, I know how painful the price of paradise can be. Even for kama'aina (long-term residents), who enjoy 10 to 50 percent off on many goods and services, the island of Oahu is not cheap to enjoy. A generic Waikiki luau is $49, tickets to The Polynesian Cultural Center can be a whopping $54 per person, and the once-free snorkeling spot of Hanauma Bay now charges $3! To save you some dough, I'll divulge these 20 bargain secrets (over half of them free), so your next vacation to the Aloha State is happily affordable.

1. Bond with the band

Over 160 years old (it's gone through a few musicians, mind you), the Royal Hawaiian Band (808/527-5666, royalhawaiianband.com) is one of the last links to Hawaii's royalty, commissioned by King Kamehameha III in 1836. Catch the band for absolutely no charge at the scenic 'Iolani Palace Bandstand (in front of the former royal residence) every Friday at noon, and at the Kapi'olani Bandstand in Kapi'olani Park every Sunday at 2 p.m. Stand up and hula along if you must.

2. Lyon in the tropics

Green thumbs will go gaga at the Lyon Arboretum (808/988-0456, hawaii.edu/lyonarboretum), a research center tucked back in the moist, verdant Manoa Valley, just ten minutes' drive from Waikiki. Hundreds of species of exotic tropical and Hawaii-specific plants are on display to the public for a suggested donation of $2.50, with guided tours included on Tuesdays at 10 a.m. and Saturdays at 1 p.m. Be sure to check out the nearby hiking trail to the dream-like Manoa Falls while you're there.

3. Walking Waikiki's past

Learn about Waikiki's history with free guided walking tours offered by the Native Hawaiian Hospitality Association. The two-hour Queen's Tour takes you around Kapi'olani Park and Queen's Beach, while the Kalia Tour traces the origins of Waikiki, and the home of Olympian swimmer and surfer Duke Kahanamoku. Each tour is at 9 a.m., Monday through Saturday. Info: 808/841-6442 or waikikihistorictrail.com.

4. Free Hollywood movies, Hawaiian-style

If you've never watched a movie outdoors in the warm tropical breeze with gentle waves lapping in the background, here's your chance: Every Saturday and Sunday afternoon and evening "Sunset on the Beach" happens near the Kapahulu Pier in Waikiki. Food booths serve local island treats for under $10, musicians croon Hawaiian melodies, and then a 30-foot screen plays free Hollywood films, with Diamond Head looming in the background. Who could ask for more? Info: 808/523-2489.

5. A fishy auction

The Kewalo Basin, a harbor built in the 1920s between the Honolulu Airport and Waikiki, is the site of The Honolulu Fish Auction every day at 5 a.m. (don't worry, with the time change you'll be waking up early anyway!). Grab your cup o' java and head to the boats hauling out their fresh catch of local fish like mahimahi, ono, and opah. The colorful dickering, often in local pidgin English, is well worth the early-morning effort.

6. Towering Aloha

A Honolulu icon, the Aloha Tower has been greeting guests arriving on cruise ships since 1926. For some of the best views of the city, hop aboard its creaky elevator to the top of the 184-foot structure, all for free. It adjoins the pleasant Aloha Tower Marketplace mall and is open all year long from 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

7. Pray in Hawaiian

The New England-style Kawaiahao Church is Honolulu's oldest. Built in the 1800s out of 14,000 hand-quarried coral slabs, it served as the church of the Hawaiian royalty (King Lunalilo has his own impressive mausoleum in the back). The church offers soul-stirring services in Hawaiian and English every Sunday at 10:30 a.m., with songs sung in Hawaiian by a renowned choir (957 Punchbowl St., 808/522-1333).

8. Learn to live life like a Hawaiian

Be sure never to pay for hula, ukulele, or lei-making lessons in Waikiki: The Royal Hawaiian Shopping Center (2201 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-0588) offers all for free! It's located right behind the Royal Hawaiian Hotel in the heart of Waikiki. Hula lessons are Mondays and Fridays at 10 a.m. (Ilima Court, third floor); ukulele lessons are Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays at 11:30 a.m. (Hibiscus Court, first floor); lei-making lessons are Mondays and Wednesdays at 11 a.m. (Orchid Court, third floor).

9. Lei it on, for a song

Honolulu's Chinatown is the real thing, with noodle shops, herbalists, and storefronts looking like they haven't had a makeover for a century or so. Amid all the color is Maunakea Street, which could be called Lei Lane with its rows of flower shops and elderly ladies stringing garlands in open doorways. What would be a $20 lei at the airport will only cost you a few bucks here. Call Cindy's Lei Shoppe (1034 Maunakea St., 808/536-6538), and they can even deliver leis costing as little as $4 right to your curbside car door (since parking is tight in Chinatown).

10. Learn more than you ever wanted to know about pineapples

The Dole Plantation, in the rich red earth of Wahiawa in Central Oahu, is a fun, free-of-charge destination. Begun as a roadside stand in 1950, the large center has history displays, gift shops, free samples, demonstrations on how to properly cut pineapples-even a $5 pineapple maze (the largest in the world according to Guinness) and a $7.50, two-mile train ride through the plantation. Info: 808/621-8408, dole-plantation.com.

11. Discover a princess

Most guests at the classy Sheraton Princess Ka'iulani (120 Ka'iulani Ave., 808/922-5811) in Waikiki don't realize that the hotel is built on the former Ainahau Estate where the young princess lived. For no charge, you can partake in a guided tour of the grounds and historical rooms Monday through Friday at 4 p.m. Included is a reading of the poem "Island Rose," which Robert Louis Stevenson penned for Ka'iulani.

12. Free fish gazing

Built in 1904 and holding four impressive galleries of tanks, the Waikiki Aquarium (808/923-9741) is a steal at $7 a ticket, but there are two other lesser known but free aquariums in Waikiki as well. One, The Tube, at the DFS Galleria Waikiki shopping mall (330 Royal Hawaiian Ave., 808/931-2655), is a 65,000-gallon, two-story saltwater aquarium you can actually stroll through. The second is the Oceanarium Restaurant at the Pacific Beach Hotel (2490 Kalakaua Ave., 808/922-1233), a three-story, 280,000-gallon saltwater tank, also free.

13. Shave off the heat

Probably the most famous yet humble shave-ice (known to you mainlanders as "snow cone") store in the world, Matsumoto's (66-087 Kamehameha Hwy., 808/637-4827, matsumotoshaveice.com) near the North Shore town of Haleiwa offers this local delicacy starting at only $1.20 per cone, and that includes a dollop of ice cream as well (with red beans, an Asian favorite, it's 60 cents more).

14. Budget bus blast

One of the best-kept secrets on Oahu is the public bus ride around the entire island of Oahu for $2! The route is over 150 miles, and bus tours run by big outfits will charge you over $50 for the same pleasure. The benefit of riding "The Bus" (as it's known) is that you can get off and on at different beaches or towns for up to two hours without incurring a second fare -- it's a treat to escape the cement of Waikiki and discover the lush island's more remote shores. Take Circle Island Bus 52 or 55 from the Ala Moana Shopping Center. Info: 808/848-5555, thebus.org.

15. Tea for three (dollars)

The Urusenke Teahouse in Waikiki (reservations: 808/923-3059) is a soothing, authentic Japanese teahouse that presents a full-fledged ancient tea ceremony on Wednesdays and Fridays starting at 10 a.m., for a small donation of three dollars. You sip tea made from 400-year-old bushes in a reverent setting (long pants and socks required) and soak up the Zen atmosphere away from Waikiki's bustle.

16. Pig out, local style

Irifune (563 Kapahulu Ave., 808/737-1141) is usually full of locals in the know. Snapshots of friends and Kabuki masks cover the walls, fishing nets and glow-in-the-dark stars hang above diners, and there's a TV fish tank in the bathroom. Huge Japanese meals with all the trimmings go for under $10.

17. Aloha art

With over 35,000 Asian, Western, and Pacific works, The Honolulu Academy of Art (900 S. Beretania St., 808/532-8700, honoluluacademy.org) is well worth relinquishing a day at the beach for. The admission is only $7, but you can avoid that by arriving on the first Wednesday of each month when it's free. Included are the James A. Michener Collection of Japanese prints, and royal feather capes and tapa hangings.

18. Palacial yesteryear

Queen Emma's Summer Palace (808/595-6291, daughtersofhawaii.org), along the Pali Highway in dramatic Nu'uanu Valley, is just five minutes from the center of Honolulu. For $5 you can witness how the royalty lived in this mansion with its rich koa-wood furniture, and sumptuous grounds where the queen entertained.

19. Polo in paradise

Yes, Oahu has it all-even polo grounds. Prince Charles himself has played at the Waimanalo Polo Grounds, located on the island's windward coast near Waimanalo town at the base of the spectacularly ridged Ko'olau Mountains. For $3, you can take in a real polo game every Sunday at 2:30 p.m. (practice games Wednesdays and Fridays at 4:30 p.m.) from April to October, with plenty of shade, a snack bar, and the kids get to pet the resident ponies as well. Info: 808/947-6511, honolulupolo.com.

20. Ascend Diamond Head

Once free, the popular hike to the top of Diamond Head now costs $1, but it's still one of the best deals on the island. You park inside of the actual crater (called Le'ahi and the site of human sacrifices on its western slope) and ascend about a mile of trail, ducking through tunnels, ramparts, and up steps built during World War II. You're rewarded with certainly the best view of Waikiki available anywhere.

21. Shrimp surprise

When traveling on the North Shore, stop by Giovanni's Shrimp Truck. Its heaping plates of locally harvested shrimp go slightly beyond our budget ($11) but are worth the splurge, especially with its infamous Hot & Spicy sauce ("hot as our volcanic lava") that's also sold separately for $5 a bottle. Decorated with comments handwritten by loyal customers, the truck is along the Kamehameha Highway near the town of Kahuku. Info: 888/923-9494.

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The Secret Hotels of Philadelphia

It was Philadelphia's most famous son, Benjamin Franklin, who coined the two quotes that are particularly relevant to budget travelers: "A penny saved is a penny earned," and "Fish and visitors smell after three days." So you would think that the City of Brotherly Love, a place that is already overflowing with tributes to the great man, would also be chock-full of budget lodgings, sparing visitors the indignity of having to shell out at least a week's salary on a hotel stay. Instead, they are few and far between, and their numbers are dwindling (one well-respected budget inn near Rittenhouse Square, the Abigail Corby Carriage House, recently shut its doors for good). This is especially puzzling when you consider the larger number of budget hotels available in far more expensive cities (New York, for example, a two-hour ride away). Be that as it may, we've come up with a range of cozy and charming independent inns that offer rooms for under one Benjamin (he's the face on the $100 bill) a night. For more options, a few chain hotels such as Rodeway Inn (1208 Walnut St., 215/546-7000, rodewayinn.com) and Comfort Inn (100 N. Christopher Columbus Blvd., 215/627-7900, comfortinn.com) also have rooms under $100. Most properties listed below are in the Center City district, where sites such as Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, and the National Constitution Center are located, with the odd lodging in the University City district (home to Drexel University and U. Penn). Rates quoted do not include taxes of 14 percent. Alexander Inn 301 S. 12th St., 877/253-9466, alexanderinn.com; 48 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $99. In a historic building one block from Philadelphia's Antique Row district, the Alexander Inn is an all-around favorite among the city's budget hotels, with a friendly, helpful staff. Its warm, inviting lobby and bar (where a complimentary continental breakfast is served) is decorated in a style intended to evoke "the great cruise ships of the '30s" (check out the caf,-society frieze above the bar!). All of the Alexander Inn's 48 rooms are furnished in a modern-chic motif, and they have multichannel Direct TV and telephones with modem ports. The rooms are clean and come with mini-toiletries, fluffy towels, hairdryers, irons, and ironing boards, although the single rooms-and the bathrooms within-can be on the cramped side. A gym and a business center are available. La Reserve-Center City Bed & Breakfast 1804 Pine St., 800/354-8401, centercitybed.com; seven rooms, most with shared bathrooms, from $85. A few blocks south of Rittenhouse Square, near the Antique Row district, this 153-year-old town house is a favorite among European visitors, particularly musicians who like to play the Steinway concert piano in the Victorian-style parlor. The self-proclaimed Grande Dame of Philadelphia's B&Bs has nineteenth-century-style rooms (and relatively large ones at that, for a budget hotel), and breakfast is served in a chandeliered dining room. For a higher price, there are two large suites with private baths available. As with many other inns that trade on old-fashioned charm, a warning about navigating the staircase applies. Thomas Bond House 129 S. 2nd St., 800/845-2663, winston-salem-inn.com/philadelphia; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95. A brick house located within Independence National Historical Park, the elegant Thomas Bond House features rooms furnished in the Federal style. Guests are served a complimentary continental breakfast featuring fresh fruit and muffins (or a full breakfast on the weekends), as well as evening wine and cheese. Coffee, tea, and soda are available throughout the day, and local phone calls are free. All rooms overlook the Welcome Park section of the national park (site of William Penn's house) and have cable TV, hairdryers, radio alarm clocks, and individual heating/air-conditioning units. The only drawbacks are the property's policy toward children (over 10, preferably) and the fact there are no ground-floor rooms in a building that only has stairs. The cheapest rooms are on the third floor. Shippen Way Inn 418 Bainbridge St., 800/245-4873; nine rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95 If you're hankering for Ye Olde Colonial Hospitality, step right this way. Innkeepers Ann Foringer and Raymond Rhule run their charming (if somewhat cramped) establishment one block off South Street, in an eighteenth-century house seemingly plucked from the country and deposited smack-dab in the big city (only a few blocks from Independence Hall). Distinguishing features include a walled colonial herb garden where breakfast is served in fair weather. The hosts not only serve complimentary breakfast (featuring fresh fruit and home-baked breads and muffins) but also afternoon tea or wine and cheese. In the winter, there's a working fireplace in the living room. Rooms are furnished in variations on the colonial theme; the smallest features original timbered walls, while the largest overlooks the herb garden and has an antique four-poster bed. The only drawbacks are a discouraging policy toward children (they are accepted "at innkeepers' discretion due to space limitations"; inquire ahead) and the narrow, spiral staircase leading to some rooms. The Gables 4520 Chester Ave., 215/662-1918, gablesbb.com; 10 rooms, 8 with private bathrooms, from $85 One of the more affordable options in the University City district, this is an ideal choice for those visitors who want to stay in a quiet neighborhood yet desire easy access to the big city; there's a trolley stop across the street. The Gables has been cited as a prime example of Queen Anne Victorian architecture-it won a preservation award from the local historical society-but it doesn't scrimp on modern-day conveniences: Cable TV, private phones with answering machines, phone jacks for Web access, and DSL availability are in all rooms. A complimentary full breakfast featuring eggs, fresh fruit, and homemade muffins is served, and your hosts include Tobe the poodle (innkeepers Don Caskey and Warren Cederholm claim poodles are hypoallergenic). Given its location, the Gables is favored by visiting relatives of college students, so book well in advance. No smoking is permitted. Society Hill Hotel 301 Chestnut St., 215/925-1919, societyhillhotel.com; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $75 The Society Hill Hotel recalls the early nineteenth century, when it was a boardinghouse for longshoremen. The guest rooms are somewhat tiny (no wonder they call it Philadelphia's Smallest Hotel) but they have brass beds, and a complimentary continental breakfast is delivered to your door. The hotel is across the street from Independence National Historical Park (and should not be confused with the similarly named-but higher priced-Sheraton nearby). Check-in is located at the bar in the popular ground-floor restaurant, which prides itself on having the best cheese steaks in Philadelphia (according to the Wall Street Journal). As with the Shippen Way, however, Society Hill's quaint charms also include a narrow staircase, and no elevator.

Buenos Aires: The Low-Cost Capital of South America

Not too long ago (say, a year), Argentina was a high-priced stop on the South American circuit, either to be skipped altogether or endured as a wallet-busting option. Not anymore. A recent, panicky devaluation of the Argentine peso to nearly one third of its former value against the U.S. dollar ($1 now buys about three pesos; it used to get only one peso) has made Buenos Aires into a bargain bonanza with spectacular prices for formerly untouchable luxuries. B.A. now offers $4 steaks and $3 lessons in the tango. Another price comparison is even more dramatic. Feel like popping into a four-star hotel for a suite with a gorgeous view, living room, and whirlpool tub? Then head upon arrival to the Amerian Hotel (Reconquista 699, 011-54-11/4317-5100, www.amerian.com), which charged a forbidding $350 a night for that room two years ago. Now the same room is about $100, and there are some renting for as little as $60. Buenos Aires It also remains a pleasure-loving city. Porte os, as the natives of this port along the banks of the Rio de la Plata are known, are not letting economic troubles depress them. Restaurants, clubs, and caf,s are packed with locals partying their blues away. And tourists are around in large numbers, too-2003 is expected to break all records for international visitors. Images of worried runs-on-the-bank might have filled your TV screens only a year or so ago, but that agony has now subsided, and the city has placed extra police in areas you're likely to visit. It's as easy and safe to visit B.A. as ever. So, if you have champagne tastes and a beer income, this one is for you. Three recommended areas of Buenos Aires-Avenida de Mayo, San Telmo, and the Microcentro-put you within walking distance of, or a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to, virtually everything. We've discussed each section separately, and also grouped our hotel recommendations separately within each of the three sections. (When dialing the numbers that follow in this article from the United States, first dial 011-54-11.) Navenida de Mayo Begin your visit at the Plaza de Mayo, in front of the Casa Rosada, closely associated with Eva Peron (better known as Evita), the wife of the late President Juan Peron. The balcony here is where she made those speeches more than 50 years ago. There's no cost to tour the building's heavily ornamented rooms, filled with art collected as the country grew in wealth and power. Currently, the building's famous balcony overlooks a political event every Thursday afternoon, when the Madres de Plaza de Mayo engage in a demonstration in which they carry pictures of their children-some of the 30,000 who "disappeared" during the military government's "dirty war" from 1976 to 1983. The regime's crushing defeat by Britain during the Malvinas (or Falklands) War finally brought democracy. Still, the mothers continue to hope for justice. A top hotel choice in the area, adorned with marble and bronze touches, is Castelar Hotel & Spa (Av. de Mayo 1152, 4383-5000, www.castelarhotel.com.ar), where free breakfast and use of an enormous downstairs sauna are included in low prices starting at 140 pesos ($47) for a double. Just down the block is the belle epoque Nuevo Mundial Hotel (Av. de Mayo 1298, 4383-0011, www.stelfair.com/argentina/mundial). While the latter two-star charmer shows its age and is popular with a young backpacking crowd, why should they be the only ones enjoying doubles starting at 50 pesos ($17), with breakfast? (Some of the Nuevo Mundial's units even have enormous balconies overlooking the avenue.) You'll also be dazzled by a nearby bargain four-star hotel actually called the Dazzler (Libertad 902, 4816-5005, www.dazzlerhotel.com), which sometimes offers Web specials as low as $37 a night per double. Its location is especially convenient to the Corrientes theater district, and all rooms come with free Internet, cable, and daily newspapers. Note that the Dazzler is just around the corner from one of the most beautiful buildings in town, the 1908 Teatro Colon (4378-7344, www.teatrocolon.org.ar), host to many of the world's finest opera singers, and ornamented with gilded columns and sculpture. Tours are conducted every day but Monday for 10 pesos ($3.33; enter at Tucum n 1171). Many of those bejeweled Evita images you've seen show her attending events here. If this area doesn't satisfy your Evita curiosity, then take a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to Recoleta Cemetery close to the intersections of Guido and Junin. Find her by following the tourists or looking for the tomb with the most flowers and plaques. Recoleta, free to the public, is full of mausoleums and sculptural wonders. If you come on a Saturday or a Sunday, you'll also encounter the Recoleta Market just in front of the cemetery entrance. Stalls are packed with bargains, like 10 peso ($3.33) T-shirts and 6 peso ($2) leather belts. It also costs nothing to view the Evita Monument in Plaza Rub,n Dario, only a few blocks away near the intersections of Austria and Libertador. At the National Library (Ag?ero 2502, 4808-6000), which often has impressive free exhibits, you'll find still another bronze monument to Evita. In the distance behind her is the free National Museum of Fine Arts (Av. del Libertador 1473, 4803-8814), full of important European and Argentine paintings. And you can then grab another cab to the new Evita Museum (Lafinur 2988, 4807-9433, www.evitaperon.org) in the Palermo neighborhood-admission is only 5 pesos ($1.67). San Telmo: Home of the Tango Even more sexy than the tango is getting to see and learn it for free or next to nothing. Slap on your dancing shoes and head to San Telmo, the world's tango headquarters. Buildings (some colonial) in this specially protected area must remain in a semi-deteriorated state, imparting a unique, ungentrified charm as you stroll along. An important event is Sunday's San Telmo Market in Plaza Dorrego, stocked with all the antique and belle-epoque decor of once-wealthy Buenos Aires homes. Recent buys included brass door plates for 15 pesos ($5) and filigreed candelabra for 60 pesos ($20). Within the market: free tango shows all Sunday long, inviting audience participation. Buenos Aires residents take tango to the streets during the annual Tango Festival (February 28 to March 4, 2004; www.festivaldetango.com.ar), a fabulous citywide event that could have been lifted from a budget traveler's dreams. Many of the shows are free, others have stunningly low prices for tango performers that few can match. Accommodations? The small scale of the area makes it light on hotel choices, but the atmosphere is worth soaking up. Hotel Victoria (Chacabuco 726, 4361-2135; doubles starting at 25 pesos/$8.33) is a cozy place with a central patio; rooms come with or without bath; and guests can use the kitchen or laundry as they wish. For meals, Mitos Argentinos (Humberto Primo 489, 4362-7810) offers a remarkable 17 peso ($5.67) lunch special including drink and dessert, with a free tango show on Sundays from 12:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Afterward, stay for lessons for a few pesos more. Just down the street is the charmingly quaint Caf, del Arbol (Humberto Primo 424, 4361-9133), which offers music nightly after 10:30 p.m. Stop in for a lomito, a steak sandwich, for only 6 pesos ($2) and wash it down with a beer for 3 ($1). A spectacularly authentic eatery is the Plaza Dorrego Bar (Defensa 1098, 4361-0141), its wooden chairs, ceiling fans, and old bottles evoking the Buenos Aires of 100 years ago. The country's top writers and artists frequented the bar for decades. Its prices are a blast from the past, too: 1.5 pesos (50¢) for coffee, 3 pesos ($1) for a hamburger, 6 pesos ($2) for the filling Dorrego salad. MicroCentro: For Micro Prices The Microcentro is the city's hopping downtown area, full of office workers and the busy shops, services, and bars that cater to them. Its main streets, Florida and Lavalle, are pedestrian shopping corridors, closed to traffic since 1968. Here you'll find Galerias Pacifico (at Florida and Av. Cordoba), a gorgeous 1889 building converted into a fancy shopping center, and now also home to some of the city's best cultural offerings. Twice daily there's a free tour of the 1940s murals decorating this structure. Meet under the main cupola at 11:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Then, every Friday and Saturday at 8 p.m., a free tango show is presented in the food court. Or take the escalators to the second floor to the Borges Cultural Center (5555-5359, www.ccborges.org.ar), charging 4 pesos ($1.33) admission, where you'll find a cinema and room after room of high-quality painting, sculpture, and photo exhibits. Last, and a real treat, the same building houses the Escuela Argentina de Tango (4312-4990), where you can take lessons starting at 10 pesos ($3.33). In past decades, instructors here have taught a great many movie stars how to tango. Keep walking up Florida until it ends at the graceful Plaza San Martin, which is always packed with locals out enjoying themselves under the enormous trees. (You'll even find mothers at two in the morning with their kids on the swing sets, training them for their late nights as adults in this 24-hour city.) A great many modern three- and four-star hotels are found in this part of town. The four-star Lafayette Hotel (Reconquista 546, 4393-9081, www.lafayettehotel.com.ar) has spacious rooms-some large enough for an entire family-friendly service, and free breakfast. Doubles start at 160 pesos ($53) per night. Fine dining at an exceptionally low tab is just a 3 peso ($1) cab ride away in Puerto Madero, the city's rejuvenated port district. Here, a series of converted waterfront warehouses enclose restaurants that can only be described as fabulous, serving the best beef in the world at thrilling prices. You'll particularly like Siga la Vaca (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714, 4315-6801), meaning "follow the cow"-to an all-you-can-eat, 20 peso ($6.67) buffet including drink and dessert. Getting there and getting around Flights The country's official airline, Aerolineas Argentinas (800/333-0276, www.aerolineas.com.ar), flies only from Miami and New York, at round-trip rates starting at $455 and $480 respectively. For only slightly higher rates, American Airlines (800/433-7300, www.aa.com) offers flights on a daily basis to Argentina and better connections from most U.S. cities. For air-inclusive packages to B.A., Miami-based Analie Tours (800/811-6027, www.analietours.com) charges $545 for six nights at a four-star Recoleta hotel, with a gourmet lunch thrown in as well. They also offer inexpensive add-on trips to areas like Patagonia or Iguazu Falls. Airport To and from the international airport of Ezeiza, a cab is 30 to 40 pesos ($10 to $13.33). Or take the van service Manuel Tienda Leon (4314-3636, www.tiendaleon.com), which takes you to Plaza San Martin, where you board a bus for your specific hotel, all for 17 pesos ($5.67). Cheapest of all is the 1.35 peso (45¢) Number 86 Bus, which starts in La Boca and runs every 20 minutes along Avenida de Mayo before heading to the airport. Make sure the bus says Aeropuerto on it, and allow at least two hours for the ride. Getting around in town Most taxi rides average between 3 and 6 pesos ($1 to $2), even with your 10 percent tip. But not all cabbies are reputable, so use radio taxis, which your hotel or restaurant can call for you. The subway will run only .70 pesos (23¢) a ride.

Hattiesburg, Mississippi

Hattiesburg, 80 miles north of Biloxi, is home to the University of Southern Mississippi and proud of it. In recent years, however, Hattiesburg has also become proud of its reputation as a Mississippi boomtown. Once nearly abandoned, the historic downtown area is being restored building by building: The art deco Saenger Theatre, a former movie house that was renovated in 2000, now mounts commercial theater, opera, and works by local playwrights (201 Forrest St., 601/584-4888, saengeramusements.com). Upscale bars and restaurants have sprouted up, such as the Walnut Circle Grill (115 Walnut St., 601/544-2202) and 206 Front Street (206 W. Front St., 601/545-5677). The former serves pistachio-crusted lamb for $24; the latter, Parmesan-crusted salmon for $16. It's the kind of food you would expect from bigger cities. And residents, many of them USM faculty, are redoing mansions that fell into disrepair during the Depression. The gentrification isn't complete. Your best bets for accommodations are still highwayside motels like Comfort Inn and Best Western. The remaining rough edges tend to add welcome character. The town's Victorian cemetery, for instance, makes for a nice stroll, as does the public library's Author's Walk, which memorializes Mississippi's many legendary writers. At the junction of Hardy Street and Highway 49 lies the USM campus, which offers pleasures highbrow and low. Its enormous All-American Rose Garden is a dizzyingly sensual experience, and the McCain Research Library houses the de Grummond Children's Literature Collection, including a fascinating exhibit of early manuscripts of Cinderella and Aesop's Fables. On the rowdier side, USM's diverse student body loves their team sports with full-on southern obsession. Fans paint themselves gold and black and ride around in convertibles prior to and just after games, with music blaring and flags waving. Tickets for all major sports events are usually available even on game days and run about $15 (601/266-5418, ticketmaster.com, enter "Southern Mississippi"). Post-victory crowds gather at St. Elmo's Tavern (1825 Hardy St., 601/543-0659) and the Thirsty Hippo (211 Main St., 601/583-9188, thirstyhippo.com), where there's often live music. The campus serves as a trailhead for the Long Leaf Trace (mylongleaftrace.com), a 41-mile biking, hiking, and equestrian trail created from paved-over derelict railroad tracks. Just south of the campus on Highway 49, you'll find a place to flex muscles of a different kind: one of the region's best-known discount malls, home of Hudson's Treasure Hunt (5912 Hwy. 49, 601/545-2088). The store raids defunct boutiques and department stores in big coastal cities for leftovers and sells them at mind-blowing savings. As Angela Ball, an English professor at USM, puts it, "There's an awful lot of Mississippians running around in $30 Armani coats because of Hudson's." The town also has a couple of highly rated public golf courses, a small zoo, and lovely public parks. Ten miles outside of town is Camp Shelby. Normally a National Guard training center, the camp is currently being used by the army to train reservists for service in Iraq. It's also the site of the Camp Shelby Armed Forces Museum (601/558-2757, closed Sunday and Monday, free), which commemorates our troops' sacrifices.

Travel Tips

How to Buy Koa Wood on the Big Island

There's only one place in the world where koa trees grow: Hawaii, where the beautiful, red to chocolate-brown wood has been prized for centuries. Generations of Hawaiians believed that each koa tree was blessed with a special energy, or mana, and tribes reverently selected trees to be made into traditional dugout canoes, paddles, furnishings, and surfboards. Today, expert woodworkers carve bowls, chopsticks, jewelry boxes, knickknacks, furniture, ukuleles, and necklaces out of koa. Due to logging, fires, and overgrazing, Hawaii's supply of the special wood has shrunk in recent years, and prices have skyrocketed. Nearly all of the trees that remain are on the Big Island, which is where you'll find the best value for gorgeous handmade koa souvenirs. Color, Grain, Feel: Koa trees take 50 or more years to mature, growing upward of 120 feet and six to seven feet in diameter. They sprout out of old lava fields, and the dark, volcanic soil is responsible for the wood's trademark deep tones. The most coveted grain of koa is curly and wavy, which lends a dazzling, almost three-dimensional effect. Koa has a very hard and heavy feel, similar to walnut, and it seasons well without warping or splitting. A well-crafted item will be made of pieces of wood that are alike in color and grain, with sharp edges, strong joints, and no sanding marks. When it's finished, it should have a lustrous, slightly golden hue and a glass-smooth surface. Farmers Markets: At the Big Island's open-air farmers markets, you'll find dozens of inexpensive koa items to bring home -- chopsticks for $15, small boxes for $40 -- as well as fresh produce, chocolates, nuts, and tropical flowers. Try the Hilo Farmers Market (Wednesday and Saturday), in downtown Hilo, or the Kailua Village Farmers Market (Thursday through Sunday), in the Kona Inn parking lot in Kailua Kona. Haggling isn't customary, but some vendors will give you a deal if you're buying in bulk. Bring cash. Buying Direct: Most galleries mark up items considerably, and the shops inside the resorts on the northwest Kohala Coast are especially overpriced. The one exception in this part of the Big Island is the Harbor Gallery, where the prices are decent. Buying direct from the woodworker can sometimes save you money, and it's always exciting to meet the artists behind the art. A couple of upcoming events make it easy to do just that. From February 9 to 27, top artists will be showing and selling their works straight to the buyer at the Big Island Wood Show, inside the newly opened Chase Gallery in Hilo. The Big Island Woodturners Show at the Wailoa Center, also in Hilo, features hand-turned bowls and vases, from March 4 to 26. Another option is contacting the Hawaii Wood Guild, which will recommend woodworkers with no referral fees at any time of year. You negotiate prices directly with the artist, you can ask that the work be customized, and many craftsmen will even let you snoop around their workshops. Shopping   Hilo Farmers Market Corner of Mamo St. and Kamehameha Ave., hilofarmersmarket.com Kailua Village Farmers Market 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua Kona, 808/329-1393 (ask for Lee)   Harbor Gallery Kawaihae Shopping Center, harborgallery.biz   Chase Gallery 100 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, chasedesigns.com   Big Island Woodturners Show Wailoa Center, 200 Piopio St., Hilo, bigislandwoodturners.com   Hawaii Wood Guild, hawaiiwoodguild.com