The Secret Hotels of Philadelphia

By Katharine Ristich
June 4, 2005
In a city infamous for its high room costs, Budget Travel saves the day by discovering several comfortable lodgings with a sense of proportion

It was Philadelphia's most famous son, Benjamin Franklin, who coined the two quotes that are particularly relevant to budget travelers: "A penny saved is a penny earned," and "Fish and visitors smell after three days." So you would think that the City of Brotherly Love, a place that is already overflowing with tributes to the great man, would also be chock-full of budget lodgings, sparing visitors the indignity of having to shell out at least a week's salary on a hotel stay. Instead, they are few and far between, and their numbers are dwindling (one well-respected budget inn near Rittenhouse Square, the Abigail Corby Carriage House, recently shut its doors for good). This is especially puzzling when you consider the larger number of budget hotels available in far more expensive cities (New York, for example, a two-hour ride away).

Be that as it may, we've come up with a range of cozy and charming independent inns that offer rooms for under one Benjamin (he's the face on the $100 bill) a night. For more options, a few chain hotels such as Rodeway Inn (1208 Walnut St., 215/546-7000, rodewayinn.com) and Comfort Inn (100 N. Christopher Columbus Blvd., 215/627-7900, comfortinn.com) also have rooms under $100. Most properties listed below are in the Center City district, where sites such as Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, and the National Constitution Center are located, with the odd lodging in the University City district (home to Drexel University and U. Penn). Rates quoted do not include taxes of 14 percent.

Alexander Inn 301 S. 12th St., 877/253-9466, alexanderinn.com; 48 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $99.

In a historic building one block from Philadelphia's Antique Row district, the Alexander Inn is an all-around favorite among the city's budget hotels, with a friendly, helpful staff. Its warm, inviting lobby and bar (where a complimentary continental breakfast is served) is decorated in a style intended to evoke "the great cruise ships of the '30s" (check out the caf,-society frieze above the bar!). All of the Alexander Inn's 48 rooms are furnished in a modern-chic motif, and they have multichannel Direct TV and telephones with modem ports. The rooms are clean and come with mini-toiletries, fluffy towels, hairdryers, irons, and ironing boards, although the single rooms-and the bathrooms within-can be on the cramped side. A gym and a business center are available.

La Reserve-Center City Bed & Breakfast 1804 Pine St., 800/354-8401, centercitybed.com; seven rooms, most with shared bathrooms, from $85.

A few blocks south of Rittenhouse Square, near the Antique Row district, this 153-year-old town house is a favorite among European visitors, particularly musicians who like to play the Steinway concert piano in the Victorian-style parlor. The self-proclaimed Grande Dame of Philadelphia's B&Bs has nineteenth-century-style rooms (and relatively large ones at that, for a budget hotel), and breakfast is served in a chandeliered dining room. For a higher price, there are two large suites with private baths available. As with many other inns that trade on old-fashioned charm, a warning about navigating the staircase applies.

Thomas Bond House 129 S. 2nd St., 800/845-2663, winston-salem-inn.com/philadelphia; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95.

A brick house located within Independence National Historical Park, the elegant Thomas Bond House features rooms furnished in the Federal style. Guests are served a complimentary continental breakfast featuring fresh fruit and muffins (or a full breakfast on the weekends), as well as evening wine and cheese. Coffee, tea, and soda are available throughout the day, and local phone calls are free. All rooms overlook the Welcome Park section of the national park (site of William Penn's house) and have cable TV, hairdryers, radio alarm clocks, and individual heating/air-conditioning units. The only drawbacks are the property's policy toward children (over 10, preferably) and the fact there are no ground-floor rooms in a building that only has stairs. The cheapest rooms are on the third floor.

Shippen Way Inn 418 Bainbridge St., 800/245-4873; nine rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $95

If you're hankering for Ye Olde Colonial Hospitality, step right this way. Innkeepers Ann Foringer and Raymond Rhule run their charming (if somewhat cramped) establishment one block off South Street, in an eighteenth-century house seemingly plucked from the country and deposited smack-dab in the big city (only a few blocks from Independence Hall). Distinguishing features include a walled colonial herb garden where breakfast is served in fair weather. The hosts not only serve complimentary breakfast (featuring fresh fruit and home-baked breads and muffins) but also afternoon tea or wine and cheese. In the winter, there's a working fireplace in the living room. Rooms are furnished in variations on the colonial theme; the smallest features original timbered walls, while the largest overlooks the herb garden and has an antique four-poster bed. The only drawbacks are a discouraging policy toward children (they are accepted "at innkeepers' discretion due to space limitations"; inquire ahead) and the narrow, spiral staircase leading to some rooms.

The Gables 4520 Chester Ave., 215/662-1918, gablesbb.com; 10 rooms, 8 with private bathrooms, from $85

One of the more affordable options in the University City district, this is an ideal choice for those visitors who want to stay in a quiet neighborhood yet desire easy access to the big city; there's a trolley stop across the street. The Gables has been cited as a prime example of Queen Anne Victorian architecture-it won a preservation award from the local historical society-but it doesn't scrimp on modern-day conveniences: Cable TV, private phones with answering machines, phone jacks for Web access, and DSL availability are in all rooms. A complimentary full breakfast featuring eggs, fresh fruit, and homemade muffins is served, and your hosts include Tobe the poodle (innkeepers Don Caskey and Warren Cederholm claim poodles are hypoallergenic). Given its location, the Gables is favored by visiting relatives of college students, so book well in advance. No smoking is permitted.

Society Hill Hotel 301 Chestnut St., 215/925-1919, societyhillhotel.com; 12 rooms, all with private bathrooms, from $75

The Society Hill Hotel recalls the early nineteenth century, when it was a boardinghouse for longshoremen. The guest rooms are somewhat tiny (no wonder they call it Philadelphia's Smallest Hotel) but they have brass beds, and a complimentary continental breakfast is delivered to your door. The hotel is across the street from Independence National Historical Park (and should not be confused with the similarly named-but higher priced-Sheraton nearby). Check-in is located at the bar in the popular ground-floor restaurant, which prides itself on having the best cheese steaks in Philadelphia (according to the Wall Street Journal). As with the Shippen Way, however, Society Hill's quaint charms also include a narrow staircase, and no elevator.

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Buenos Aires: The Low-Cost Capital of South America

Not too long ago (say, a year), Argentina was a high-priced stop on the South American circuit, either to be skipped altogether or endured as a wallet-busting option. Not anymore. A recent, panicky devaluation of the Argentine peso to nearly one third of its former value against the U.S. dollar ($1 now buys about three pesos; it used to get only one peso) has made Buenos Aires into a bargain bonanza with spectacular prices for formerly untouchable luxuries. B.A. now offers $4 steaks and $3 lessons in the tango. Another price comparison is even more dramatic. Feel like popping into a four-star hotel for a suite with a gorgeous view, living room, and whirlpool tub? Then head upon arrival to the Amerian Hotel (Reconquista 699, 011-54-11/4317-5100, www.amerian.com), which charged a forbidding $350 a night for that room two years ago. Now the same room is about $100, and there are some renting for as little as $60. Buenos Aires It also remains a pleasure-loving city. Porte os, as the natives of this port along the banks of the Rio de la Plata are known, are not letting economic troubles depress them. Restaurants, clubs, and caf,s are packed with locals partying their blues away. And tourists are around in large numbers, too-2003 is expected to break all records for international visitors. Images of worried runs-on-the-bank might have filled your TV screens only a year or so ago, but that agony has now subsided, and the city has placed extra police in areas you're likely to visit. It's as easy and safe to visit B.A. as ever. So, if you have champagne tastes and a beer income, this one is for you. Three recommended areas of Buenos Aires-Avenida de Mayo, San Telmo, and the Microcentro-put you within walking distance of, or a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to, virtually everything. We've discussed each section separately, and also grouped our hotel recommendations separately within each of the three sections. (When dialing the numbers that follow in this article from the United States, first dial 011-54-11.) Navenida de Mayo Begin your visit at the Plaza de Mayo, in front of the Casa Rosada, closely associated with Eva Peron (better known as Evita), the wife of the late President Juan Peron. The balcony here is where she made those speeches more than 50 years ago. There's no cost to tour the building's heavily ornamented rooms, filled with art collected as the country grew in wealth and power. Currently, the building's famous balcony overlooks a political event every Thursday afternoon, when the Madres de Plaza de Mayo engage in a demonstration in which they carry pictures of their children-some of the 30,000 who "disappeared" during the military government's "dirty war" from 1976 to 1983. The regime's crushing defeat by Britain during the Malvinas (or Falklands) War finally brought democracy. Still, the mothers continue to hope for justice. A top hotel choice in the area, adorned with marble and bronze touches, is Castelar Hotel & Spa (Av. de Mayo 1152, 4383-5000, www.castelarhotel.com.ar), where free breakfast and use of an enormous downstairs sauna are included in low prices starting at 140 pesos ($47) for a double. Just down the block is the belle epoque Nuevo Mundial Hotel (Av. de Mayo 1298, 4383-0011, www.stelfair.com/argentina/mundial). While the latter two-star charmer shows its age and is popular with a young backpacking crowd, why should they be the only ones enjoying doubles starting at 50 pesos ($17), with breakfast? (Some of the Nuevo Mundial's units even have enormous balconies overlooking the avenue.) You'll also be dazzled by a nearby bargain four-star hotel actually called the Dazzler (Libertad 902, 4816-5005, www.dazzlerhotel.com), which sometimes offers Web specials as low as $37 a night per double. Its location is especially convenient to the Corrientes theater district, and all rooms come with free Internet, cable, and daily newspapers. Note that the Dazzler is just around the corner from one of the most beautiful buildings in town, the 1908 Teatro Colon (4378-7344, www.teatrocolon.org.ar), host to many of the world's finest opera singers, and ornamented with gilded columns and sculpture. Tours are conducted every day but Monday for 10 pesos ($3.33; enter at Tucum n 1171). Many of those bejeweled Evita images you've seen show her attending events here. If this area doesn't satisfy your Evita curiosity, then take a 3 peso ($1) cab ride to Recoleta Cemetery close to the intersections of Guido and Junin. Find her by following the tourists or looking for the tomb with the most flowers and plaques. Recoleta, free to the public, is full of mausoleums and sculptural wonders. If you come on a Saturday or a Sunday, you'll also encounter the Recoleta Market just in front of the cemetery entrance. Stalls are packed with bargains, like 10 peso ($3.33) T-shirts and 6 peso ($2) leather belts. It also costs nothing to view the Evita Monument in Plaza Rub,n Dario, only a few blocks away near the intersections of Austria and Libertador. At the National Library (Ag?ero 2502, 4808-6000), which often has impressive free exhibits, you'll find still another bronze monument to Evita. In the distance behind her is the free National Museum of Fine Arts (Av. del Libertador 1473, 4803-8814), full of important European and Argentine paintings. And you can then grab another cab to the new Evita Museum (Lafinur 2988, 4807-9433, www.evitaperon.org) in the Palermo neighborhood-admission is only 5 pesos ($1.67). San Telmo: Home of the Tango Even more sexy than the tango is getting to see and learn it for free or next to nothing. Slap on your dancing shoes and head to San Telmo, the world's tango headquarters. Buildings (some colonial) in this specially protected area must remain in a semi-deteriorated state, imparting a unique, ungentrified charm as you stroll along. An important event is Sunday's San Telmo Market in Plaza Dorrego, stocked with all the antique and belle-epoque decor of once-wealthy Buenos Aires homes. Recent buys included brass door plates for 15 pesos ($5) and filigreed candelabra for 60 pesos ($20). Within the market: free tango shows all Sunday long, inviting audience participation. Buenos Aires residents take tango to the streets during the annual Tango Festival (February 28 to March 4, 2004; www.festivaldetango.com.ar), a fabulous citywide event that could have been lifted from a budget traveler's dreams. Many of the shows are free, others have stunningly low prices for tango performers that few can match. Accommodations? The small scale of the area makes it light on hotel choices, but the atmosphere is worth soaking up. Hotel Victoria (Chacabuco 726, 4361-2135; doubles starting at 25 pesos/$8.33) is a cozy place with a central patio; rooms come with or without bath; and guests can use the kitchen or laundry as they wish. For meals, Mitos Argentinos (Humberto Primo 489, 4362-7810) offers a remarkable 17 peso ($5.67) lunch special including drink and dessert, with a free tango show on Sundays from 12:30 p.m. to 5:30 p.m. Afterward, stay for lessons for a few pesos more. Just down the street is the charmingly quaint Caf, del Arbol (Humberto Primo 424, 4361-9133), which offers music nightly after 10:30 p.m. Stop in for a lomito, a steak sandwich, for only 6 pesos ($2) and wash it down with a beer for 3 ($1). A spectacularly authentic eatery is the Plaza Dorrego Bar (Defensa 1098, 4361-0141), its wooden chairs, ceiling fans, and old bottles evoking the Buenos Aires of 100 years ago. The country's top writers and artists frequented the bar for decades. Its prices are a blast from the past, too: 1.5 pesos (50¢) for coffee, 3 pesos ($1) for a hamburger, 6 pesos ($2) for the filling Dorrego salad. MicroCentro: For Micro Prices The Microcentro is the city's hopping downtown area, full of office workers and the busy shops, services, and bars that cater to them. Its main streets, Florida and Lavalle, are pedestrian shopping corridors, closed to traffic since 1968. Here you'll find Galerias Pacifico (at Florida and Av. Cordoba), a gorgeous 1889 building converted into a fancy shopping center, and now also home to some of the city's best cultural offerings. Twice daily there's a free tour of the 1940s murals decorating this structure. Meet under the main cupola at 11:30 a.m. and 4:30 p.m. Then, every Friday and Saturday at 8 p.m., a free tango show is presented in the food court. Or take the escalators to the second floor to the Borges Cultural Center (5555-5359, www.ccborges.org.ar), charging 4 pesos ($1.33) admission, where you'll find a cinema and room after room of high-quality painting, sculpture, and photo exhibits. Last, and a real treat, the same building houses the Escuela Argentina de Tango (4312-4990), where you can take lessons starting at 10 pesos ($3.33). In past decades, instructors here have taught a great many movie stars how to tango. Keep walking up Florida until it ends at the graceful Plaza San Martin, which is always packed with locals out enjoying themselves under the enormous trees. (You'll even find mothers at two in the morning with their kids on the swing sets, training them for their late nights as adults in this 24-hour city.) A great many modern three- and four-star hotels are found in this part of town. The four-star Lafayette Hotel (Reconquista 546, 4393-9081, www.lafayettehotel.com.ar) has spacious rooms-some large enough for an entire family-friendly service, and free breakfast. Doubles start at 160 pesos ($53) per night. Fine dining at an exceptionally low tab is just a 3 peso ($1) cab ride away in Puerto Madero, the city's rejuvenated port district. Here, a series of converted waterfront warehouses enclose restaurants that can only be described as fabulous, serving the best beef in the world at thrilling prices. You'll particularly like Siga la Vaca (Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 1714, 4315-6801), meaning "follow the cow"-to an all-you-can-eat, 20 peso ($6.67) buffet including drink and dessert. Getting there and getting around Flights The country's official airline, Aerolineas Argentinas (800/333-0276, www.aerolineas.com.ar), flies only from Miami and New York, at round-trip rates starting at $455 and $480 respectively. For only slightly higher rates, American Airlines (800/433-7300, www.aa.com) offers flights on a daily basis to Argentina and better connections from most U.S. cities. For air-inclusive packages to B.A., Miami-based Analie Tours (800/811-6027, www.analietours.com) charges $545 for six nights at a four-star Recoleta hotel, with a gourmet lunch thrown in as well. They also offer inexpensive add-on trips to areas like Patagonia or Iguazu Falls. Airport To and from the international airport of Ezeiza, a cab is 30 to 40 pesos ($10 to $13.33). Or take the van service Manuel Tienda Leon (4314-3636, www.tiendaleon.com), which takes you to Plaza San Martin, where you board a bus for your specific hotel, all for 17 pesos ($5.67). Cheapest of all is the 1.35 peso (45¢) Number 86 Bus, which starts in La Boca and runs every 20 minutes along Avenida de Mayo before heading to the airport. Make sure the bus says Aeropuerto on it, and allow at least two hours for the ride. Getting around in town Most taxi rides average between 3 and 6 pesos ($1 to $2), even with your 10 percent tip. But not all cabbies are reputable, so use radio taxis, which your hotel or restaurant can call for you. The subway will run only .70 pesos (23¢) a ride.

Hattiesburg, Mississippi

Hattiesburg, 80 miles north of Biloxi, is home to the University of Southern Mississippi and proud of it. In recent years, however, Hattiesburg has also become proud of its reputation as a Mississippi boomtown. Once nearly abandoned, the historic downtown area is being restored building by building: The art deco Saenger Theatre, a former movie house that was renovated in 2000, now mounts commercial theater, opera, and works by local playwrights (201 Forrest St., 601/584-4888, saengeramusements.com). Upscale bars and restaurants have sprouted up, such as the Walnut Circle Grill (115 Walnut St., 601/544-2202) and 206 Front Street (206 W. Front St., 601/545-5677). The former serves pistachio-crusted lamb for $24; the latter, Parmesan-crusted salmon for $16. It's the kind of food you would expect from bigger cities. And residents, many of them USM faculty, are redoing mansions that fell into disrepair during the Depression. The gentrification isn't complete. Your best bets for accommodations are still highwayside motels like Comfort Inn and Best Western. The remaining rough edges tend to add welcome character. The town's Victorian cemetery, for instance, makes for a nice stroll, as does the public library's Author's Walk, which memorializes Mississippi's many legendary writers. At the junction of Hardy Street and Highway 49 lies the USM campus, which offers pleasures highbrow and low. Its enormous All-American Rose Garden is a dizzyingly sensual experience, and the McCain Research Library houses the de Grummond Children's Literature Collection, including a fascinating exhibit of early manuscripts of Cinderella and Aesop's Fables. On the rowdier side, USM's diverse student body loves their team sports with full-on southern obsession. Fans paint themselves gold and black and ride around in convertibles prior to and just after games, with music blaring and flags waving. Tickets for all major sports events are usually available even on game days and run about $15 (601/266-5418, ticketmaster.com, enter "Southern Mississippi"). Post-victory crowds gather at St. Elmo's Tavern (1825 Hardy St., 601/543-0659) and the Thirsty Hippo (211 Main St., 601/583-9188, thirstyhippo.com), where there's often live music. The campus serves as a trailhead for the Long Leaf Trace (mylongleaftrace.com), a 41-mile biking, hiking, and equestrian trail created from paved-over derelict railroad tracks. Just south of the campus on Highway 49, you'll find a place to flex muscles of a different kind: one of the region's best-known discount malls, home of Hudson's Treasure Hunt (5912 Hwy. 49, 601/545-2088). The store raids defunct boutiques and department stores in big coastal cities for leftovers and sells them at mind-blowing savings. As Angela Ball, an English professor at USM, puts it, "There's an awful lot of Mississippians running around in $30 Armani coats because of Hudson's." The town also has a couple of highly rated public golf courses, a small zoo, and lovely public parks. Ten miles outside of town is Camp Shelby. Normally a National Guard training center, the camp is currently being used by the army to train reservists for service in Iraq. It's also the site of the Camp Shelby Armed Forces Museum (601/558-2757, closed Sunday and Monday, free), which commemorates our troops' sacrifices.

Travel Tips

How to Buy Koa Wood on the Big Island

There's only one place in the world where koa trees grow: Hawaii, where the beautiful, red to chocolate-brown wood has been prized for centuries. Generations of Hawaiians believed that each koa tree was blessed with a special energy, or mana, and tribes reverently selected trees to be made into traditional dugout canoes, paddles, furnishings, and surfboards. Today, expert woodworkers carve bowls, chopsticks, jewelry boxes, knickknacks, furniture, ukuleles, and necklaces out of koa. Due to logging, fires, and overgrazing, Hawaii's supply of the special wood has shrunk in recent years, and prices have skyrocketed. Nearly all of the trees that remain are on the Big Island, which is where you'll find the best value for gorgeous handmade koa souvenirs. Color, Grain, Feel: Koa trees take 50 or more years to mature, growing upward of 120 feet and six to seven feet in diameter. They sprout out of old lava fields, and the dark, volcanic soil is responsible for the wood's trademark deep tones. The most coveted grain of koa is curly and wavy, which lends a dazzling, almost three-dimensional effect. Koa has a very hard and heavy feel, similar to walnut, and it seasons well without warping or splitting. A well-crafted item will be made of pieces of wood that are alike in color and grain, with sharp edges, strong joints, and no sanding marks. When it's finished, it should have a lustrous, slightly golden hue and a glass-smooth surface. Farmers Markets: At the Big Island's open-air farmers markets, you'll find dozens of inexpensive koa items to bring home -- chopsticks for $15, small boxes for $40 -- as well as fresh produce, chocolates, nuts, and tropical flowers. Try the Hilo Farmers Market (Wednesday and Saturday), in downtown Hilo, or the Kailua Village Farmers Market (Thursday through Sunday), in the Kona Inn parking lot in Kailua Kona. Haggling isn't customary, but some vendors will give you a deal if you're buying in bulk. Bring cash. Buying Direct: Most galleries mark up items considerably, and the shops inside the resorts on the northwest Kohala Coast are especially overpriced. The one exception in this part of the Big Island is the Harbor Gallery, where the prices are decent. Buying direct from the woodworker can sometimes save you money, and it's always exciting to meet the artists behind the art. A couple of upcoming events make it easy to do just that. From February 9 to 27, top artists will be showing and selling their works straight to the buyer at the Big Island Wood Show, inside the newly opened Chase Gallery in Hilo. The Big Island Woodturners Show at the Wailoa Center, also in Hilo, features hand-turned bowls and vases, from March 4 to 26. Another option is contacting the Hawaii Wood Guild, which will recommend woodworkers with no referral fees at any time of year. You negotiate prices directly with the artist, you can ask that the work be customized, and many craftsmen will even let you snoop around their workshops. Shopping   Hilo Farmers Market Corner of Mamo St. and Kamehameha Ave., hilofarmersmarket.com Kailua Village Farmers Market 75-5744 Alii Dr., Kailua Kona, 808/329-1393 (ask for Lee)   Harbor Gallery Kawaihae Shopping Center, harborgallery.biz   Chase Gallery 100 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, chasedesigns.com   Big Island Woodturners Show Wailoa Center, 200 Piopio St., Hilo, bigislandwoodturners.com   Hawaii Wood Guild, hawaiiwoodguild.com

Campus Vacations

Remember them? Those wondrous years? You lived in a dorm, next door to a dining hall. Your days stretched on without limit, it seemed, and there was time for everything: discussions lasting hour after hour, a movie at night, the stillness of library and lab, your mind pulsing with new ideas and challenging thoughts. "Bright college years"--through a wise use of vacation time, you can touch them again, feel the glow, recharge the spirit. At scattered colleges and universities, a number of short-term summer programs enable adults of all ages to briefly re-experience "the shortest, gladdest years of life." For a weekend or longer in summer, when the campus blooms, colleges open their residences, dining halls, and classrooms to every sort of student from around the nation, without conducting tests or issuing grades, and at wonderfully low costs. Few other short vacations offer so much pleasure, and yet such mental growth. And how do these programs differ from the "learning vacations"--an exotic cruise, an archeological dig--that we, as alumni, are so often offered in the mails? First, because they are offered to alumni and non-alumni alike. Second, because they are operated by the university itself, often on a nonprofit basis, and not by a commercial tour operator or professor-turned-entrepreneur. Third, because many of them take place on campus. Fourth, because, unlike other classier, costlier seminars conducted on campus, these place you not in nearby hotels but in simple college dorms, from which you take your meals in adjacent student cafeterias, exactly as you did at the ages of 18, 19, 20, and 21. And last, because, unlike the somewhat similar Elderhostel programs, they are available to youngsters in their 30s, 40s, and 50s as well. Great books vacations, one week or longer Perched on a mountainside overlooking a stunning view of Santa Fe, New Mexico--all adobe and earth colors--St. John's College is, together with its sister school in Annapolis, Maryland, a proud and defiant guardian of the Western cultural tradition. Its undergraduate curriculum is largely based on the required study of 100-some-odd acknowledged classics over a four-year span, chronologically, beginning with Homer's "Iliad" at the dawn of written history, and continuing just barely to the 20th century through readings of Heidegger, Einstein and Freud in the senior year. On the way, students learn Greek and Euclidean geometry, attend solemn lectures in philosophy and aesthetics, and argue their conclusions in small, weekly "seminars," each led by two of the college's famed "tutors"--who perform a role similar to that of the dons of Oxford and Cambridge. It is these awesome seminars, two hours apiece, six days a week, and each attended by no more than 17 persons assisted by two "tutors," that St. John's has now been re-creating for adult vacationers over the past several summers. Each one-week summer seminar has dealt with a single, acknowledged masterpiece of thought--a "Great Book" carefully read and exhaustively discussed. And visitors attend (and live at St. John's), as they choose, for either one, two or three weeks, thus reading one, two or three "great books." Although the books chosen for summer change each year, a recent selection ran as follows: In Week One (July 11 to 16), a six-day seminar either in Freud's "Introductory Lectures," Joseph Conrad and Henry James' "The Soul of Terror," Gregorian chant, or Fyodor Dostoevsky's stories and short novels.  In Week Two (July 18 to 23), Mozart's opera "Don Giovanni," Jane Austen's "Persuasion," Shakespeare's "A Midsummer Night's Dream," or Thomas Mann's short stories.  In Week Three (July 25 to 30), Benedict Spinoza's "Ethics," Faulkner's "Absalom, Absalom," Gustav Mahler's first, fourth, and fifth symphonies, or Maurice Merleau-Ponty's "Phenomenology of Perception." The price? During the summer of 2005, one-week tuition is $950, and includes registration and books. Attendees may also register for one morning seminar and one afternoon one ($1,800). Two weeks cost $1,800, and the entire three weeks a reasonable $2,600. Festive arrival and farewell receptions are also included in the charge. Room and all board at dorms on campus are $485 per week, or students could splurge and stay at a hotel in town. By the way, the tuition price is cut in half for teachers. Seminars meet daily for two hours apiece. All other times, participants either read, sun-bathe, hike or relax, or go touring in the environs of Santa Fe and beyond, which are surely among the great attractions of America: Chimayo and Taos, Los Alamos, Bandalier National Monument, Indian reservations, and the in-city art galleries, museum, shops, and historic structures of Santa Fe itself. The weeks of one's stay need not be consecutive or in order; and participants may choose any week or weeks of the three-week schedule. Several summers ago in Santa Fe, I attended a one-week "test run" of these vacation seminars, reading and discussing Thucydides' "The Peloponnesian War" in the course of a seven-day stay. Grouped with 14 other "students" of all ages (most in their 40s and 50s) around a long table, at one end of which sat the president of St. John's, his fellow "tutor"--an impressive Greek scholar--at the other end, we pondered and discussed, argued and agonized over, issues relating to the very basis of civil society, as prompted by the tumultuous conflict between Athens and Sparta. It was a remarkable intellectual experience, that continues to resound in memory, and yet the week was exhilarating and happy, as we each day emerged from Greece of the fifth century B.C., into the southwestern sunlight, and roamed the mountain scenery of New Mexico by car. Surely we were the first auto-load in history to argue "the Melian dialogue," of Thucydides' classic history, on the highway outside Albuquerque! Write for literature to: Summer Classics, St. John's College, 1160 Camino Cruz Blanca, Santa Fe, NM 87505-4599 (phone 505/984-6117, fax 505/984-6003, email seminars@sjcsf.edu Web: www.sjcsf.edu/classics/classic.htm). Ann Kirkland attended three summer sessions of the St. John's College program, and was so impressed that in 1998 she launched a similar "Classical Pursuits" program at St. Michael's College, University of Toronto, where she is a resident professor. The 2005 session comprises 12 great works, including Gustave Flaubert's "Madame Bovary", Virgil's "Aeneid", and John Milton's "Paradise Lost".  Seminars are kept small (limited to 15 members) to allow participants to voice their thoughts and get to know classmates. The program price is affordable: CAD$1,100 and a low US$925. That rate includes enrollment in one seminar for the week, lunches, receptions, and some excursions, but does not include lodging. For singles, the most affordable place to stay is on campus in air-conditioned private rooms for CAD$425 week (about US$344 for the week), a price that includes a hot breakfast every morning. Couples who prefer housing with private bath will find the best price at the Bay Bloor Executive Suites near campus (800/263-2811; http://www.baybloorexec.com/), with rates of around US$400 for the week. By the by, the campus is within walking distance of downtown Toronto, so there is ample opportunity to visit that city's many mind-stimulating museums, concert halls, galleries, and attractions. For more information about St. Michael's Classical Pursuits program, write to Classical Pursuits Inc., 349 Palmerston Blvd., Toronto, ON M6G 2N5, Canada, call 877/633-2555, or e-mail ann.kirkland@classicalpursuits.com. Look up program information on the Web at http://www.classicalpursuits.com/. Colby College of Waterville, Maine, plays host each August to the Great Books Summer Institute, an intensive discussion and analysis of six outstanding books that participants (up to 250 of them) have already read and pondered prior to arriving for their one-week stay. Colby is a typical, New England college, on a "green," with steeple and spire atop its traditional, red-brick, main building, which makes a great setting for studying great literature. The program is a serious week of hard but rewarding work, in a convivial, high-spirited atmosphere. Participants continue their debates over the lunchtime table in the school's dining hall. This year's session was August 7 to 13, 2005; the fee $480 per person, either single or double occupancy, including all lodging in college residence halls, all meals (including a Maine clambake), and all tuition, as well as the six books sent to you via U.P.S. about four months in advance. Students are split into groups of 15, each with an experienced, great books "leader" (not necessarily an academic), whose role is to elicit student comments and not to hand down scholarly judgments from above. During the session attended several years back by a friend of mine, books for discussion included Thomas Mann's "The Magic Mountain," Frijthof Capra's "The Tao of Physics," and William Barrett's "Irrational Man"; participants discussed the interrelationship of the books and their themes, in a week that was described to me as quite remarkably stimulating and satisfying. The 2005 theme is "The Fool," and books will include "Don Quixote" by Cervantes, "The Praise of Folly" by Erasmus, and Joseph Heller's "Catch 22". For information, contact Colby Summer Institute, 824 Thomas Road, Lafayette Hill, PA 19444-1107. For information over the phone, call Tom or Carol Beam at 215/836-2380, fax: 215/836-7158, or e-mail colby@greatbooksdiscussionprograms.org. Look up the program on the Web at greatbooksdiscussionprograms.org/ Shorter great book discussions The Great Books Foundation (greatbooks.org; 800/222-5870) helps to organize shorter discussion groups and seminars around the United States. In 2005 programs are offered in Mystic, CT, Chicago, IL, Bellingham, WA, and Toronto, ON. In recent years, groups have read and discussed works such as "The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock" by T. S. Elliot, "Pere Goriot" by Balzac, "The Crucible" by Arthur Miller, and "Pacem in Terris" by Pope John XXIII. For the 2003 weekends, there were discussions on "The Tragic Sense of Life," by Miguel De Unamuno, "The Great Gatsby," by F. Scott Fitzgerald, "Divine Comedy," by Dante, and poetry by Sylvia Plath, Philip Larkin, and Billy Collins, among others. All-inclusive price (room, meals, books, and tuition) starts at about $280. For detailed information, applications, and brochures on any of the Great Books programs, call 800/222-5870 or go to http://www.greatbooks.org/programs/gb/calendar Especially for aspiring writers Every summer, The University of Iowa opens its renowned doors to non-degree, noncredit students--namely, adults (ages 18 and over) interested in creative writing. The Iowa Summer Writing Festival is held over 10 one-week and weekend sessions throughout June and July, offering 130 workshops in a wide variety of genres--novel, short fiction, poetry, memoir, playwriting, journalism, children's writing, mystery and romance. Seminars are small and intimate with each class strictly limited to 12 participants. Weeklong seminars in 2005 include: "Beginning the Novel," "The Traveler's Story: Literary Nonfiction and Fiction," "Writing Short Fiction," "Writing Short Fiction for Literary Magazines," "The Art of the Anecdote," "Short Story Workshop," and "Character and Action." Weekend seminars include "Fiction Workout: Tighter Prose in Two Days" and "Writing for Moms, Soccer and Otherwise." No previous writing experience is required, in fact some seminars are specially tailored to the novice. "I came with apprehension; I'm going home with inspiration," commented one beginning writer, the Festival was a "trusting, safe and fertile atmosphere." "Workshop leaders" range from Iowa's professors to published authors. Seminar fees are $225 per weekend, $475 per one-week course if you pay in full at the time of registration, $500 if you pay in two installments (non-inclusive of meals or housing). The most popular classes tend to be in fiction and novel-writing and fill up quickly. Participants have a varied choice of accommodations: the Festival will make reservations for a stay in a residence hall ($35 per night per person) or for those who wish to stay in an on- or near-campus hotel or B&B (rates vary, from $70 up per night), reservations can be made individually. For further information, contact: Iowa Summer Writing Festival, 100 Oakdale Campus W310, The University of Iowa , Iowa City, IA 52242-5000 (Phone: 319-335-4160, web: uiowa.edu/~iswfest/, email: iswfestival@uiowa.edu). Aspiring adult creative writers of all levels are welcome at Wesleyan University's Writer's Conference. Held each year for five days at the end of June, which in 2005 will be from June 19 to 24, the Conference offers a particularly extensive program of daily seminars (consisting of short lectures, discussion and optional writing exercises), workshops, readings and individual manuscript consultations. All seminars are taught by award-winning faculty, including poets Elizabeth Willis and Honor Moore, fiction writers Robert Stone and Roxana Robinson, and non-fiction writers Philip Gourevitch and Jonathan Schell on subjects such as "Novel and Autobiography," "Short Story," "Literary Journalism and Memoir," and "Poetry". To supplement the seminars, there is an extensive series of guest speakers. Daily seminars run from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. with evenings dedicated to speakers and student readings. Accommodations are available either on campus (in dormitory rooms) or at a nearby hotel and an on-campus meal plan provides all three meals daily. Tuition is $570, with the meal plan an extra $210 and dorm room accommodations an extra $140 -- the day student rate works out to $775 for five days, while the "boarding student" pays $910. Scholarships or Fellowships are also available, but are highly competitive -- a potential candidate must submit "representative samples of work in one genre" as well as a letter of application detailing experience and interests by April 8, 2005. Contact Anne Greene, Wesleyan Writers Conference, Wesleyan University, Middletown CT 06459 (phone 860/685-3604, fax 860/685-2441, email agreene@wesleyan.edu). Or view the Web site at wesleyan.edu/writers Various disciplines Cornell's Adult University is the most ambitious of the multi-disciplinary programs offering a choice of four one-week sessions. About 150 to 200 adults attend each week, enjoying comfortable student lodgings and highly regarded food, eminent professors, bright fellow "students," the verdant surroundings of Cornell's famous hillside campus ("far above Cayuga's waters"), and sensible prices: $1,240 to $1,390 per week per adult with double occupancy accommodations, including tuition and full room and board (or $710 with no room or board). Those requesting single rooms pay a supplement of $80 to $390 depending on lodging. Most adults opt for a single one-week topic, taught in daily sessions (9 a.m. to noon resuming at 1 p.m. until 3 p.m.) throughout the week: "Joseph Conrad's Master Works," "Field Orinthology," "Introduction to Fly Fishing," "A Sailing Clinic," and "The Wine Class" are highly illustrative samples on the 2004 curricula. The quality of instruction, and convivial afternoon and evening recreation, create a setting so compelling that some guests almost need to be evicted after their week in "Brigadoon". Though the literature doesn't say so, guests are encouraged to stay for only a single week (but may add another), and early applications are advisable. CAU also provides an extensive Youth Program. For 3 to 5 year olds, CAU offers a nursery school. For "tykes" (from 5 to 6 years of age), CAU offers such courses as "Birds and bugs," with crafts, field trips and games focused on ecology. For "explorers" (from 7 to 8 years of age), the program offers "It comes from planet earth," a fun geology course and other educational activities. Big Reds, Junior Cornellians, and teens (9-16 years of age) must pick one course- either a sports-related activity (horse-back riding, wall-climbing and sailing are always favorites) or a more academic focus--photography, world religions, or journalism, for example. The rates: $490 to $685 per child, depending on age (often the cost of the second child is reduced by a significant percentage). Contact Cornell's Adult University, 626 Thurston Ave., Ithaca, NY 14850 (phone 607/255-6260, fax 607/254-4482, e-mail cauinfo@cornell.edu). Or view the Web site at sce.cornell.edu/CAU "The Mini University" of Indiana University takes place during a week in mid-June (2005 dates are June 19-24) and consists of about 100 non-credit classes delivered by faculty members of the great Hoosier center of learning; participants are encouraged to attend up to 15 different courses in the five-day session. In the evenings there are picnics, films, and theater on campus. Registration fees for the Mini University are $195 for adults. Housing, meals and lodging are additional (lodging is available at either at an on-campus hotel or other off-campus locations). Costs are kept low by the fact that all profs donate their services free, as they speak on topics clustered under such headings as "Humanities," "Science," "International Issues," "The Arts," "Business and Technology," "Domestic Issues," "Health, Fitness, and Leisure," and "Human Growth and Development." Classes for 2005 include: "Is Wal-Mart good for America?," "Creating a Simple Web Page," "Black Spiritual as seen through the eyes of contemporary and traditional composers" "The influence of social class on schooling," "The stem cell debate once again," and "Jews and Muslims: from coexistence to crisis." Contact IU Alumni Association, Virgil T. DeVault Alumni Center, 1000 E. 17th Street, Bloomington, IN 47408-1521 (phone: 800/ 824-3044 or 812/ 855-6120, fax 812/ 855-8266 or email iualumni@indiana.edu). Or view the Web site at alumni.indiana.edu/bloomington/miniu Spring and summer "Adventure in Ideas" humanity seminars at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill (formerly known as "Vacation College") draws its faculty from the several noted universities in the area (including Duke). In the past the program consisted of a full five weeks of classes, but the school now offers seven summer (and 10 per semester) two- or three-day courses ($105-$120 for two-day programs and $180-$195 for three-day programs). There's an early booking discount of roughly 10% for those who sign up more than a month in advance, and teachers and some other groups may qualify for discounts of 50%. Program topics are a mix of serious academia, pop culture, and current world events. Recent topics have included "The Rise and Fall of the Roman Empire," "Art and Social History in 19th Century America," and "British and American Adventure Writing." The seminars are comprised mainly of commuters; however, the program does reserve blocks of rooms in well-priced hotels in town. The most reasonable of these is the Holiday Inn Express (6119 Farrington Road, 919-489-7555 or 800-HOLIDAY), which charges $72 for two queen-size beds or one king bed if you say you are in a program at the university. Contact Humanities Program, CB #3425, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill, NC 27599-3425 (phone 919/962-1544, fax 919/962-4318, e-mail human@unc.edu). Or view the Web site at adventuresinideas.unc.edu. The Dartmouth Alumni College, in Hanover, New Hampshire, operating for 40 consecutive years opens its doors in late July to host several three and five-day programs.  Starting July 26 in 2005, five-day programs include "The Guilded Age in Northern New England," and writing workshops in fiction, travel writing, memoir writing, and poetry. Three-day programs are on topics such as pop medicine, bread making, and wine tasting. It is among the oldest and most serious of summer campus sessions for adults, Dartmouth graduates, parents and their relatives and friends. Each morning two lectures are followed by small-group discussions with faculty; afternoons are left mostly free for tennis or golf on campus, boating, or hiking in the White Mountains. Evenings are devoted to films, special lectures, concerts, or plays. At the time of writing, prices were not set for 2004.  Tuition rates in 2003 started at $630 for the five-day program. A bed and breakfast package at dorms on campus ran $289/single, $476/double for six nights, and the Alumni College reserves rooms at the Hanover Inn at a pricey $185/night. (We found that you can stay at the nearby Ramada Inn for only $69/night.) Children (14 to 18 years old) can also attend the program. Contact Dartmouth Alumni College, Dartmouth Continuing Education, 6068 Blunt Alumni Center, Room 112, Hanover, NH 03755 (phone 603/646-2454, fax 603/646-1600, e-mail Program Director Roberta M. Moore at Roberta.M.Moore@dartmouth.edu). Or view the Alumni College Web site at dartmouth.edu/alumni/cont-ed/index.html Yet another "Alumni College" open to all comers is hosted annually by Washington and Lee College in Lexington, VA (a beautifully restored town used as a backdrop in Civil War movies). Weeklong programs with almost everything you need (five nights' double or quad occupancy accommodations, 14 meals, books, tuition, and admission to films, museums, and performances) cost just $795; $820 for a single. There are five different programs to choose from each summer; 2004 choices include "America's Guilded Age: 1870-1920," "The Historical Jesus: Early Christianity and the New Testament," "East Meets West: Europe Since the Fall of the Soviet Empire," "Understadning the Middle East," and "Brain and Mind: Who Are We and How Do We Know?" To find out more, contact Washington and Lee Alumni College, Washington and Lee University, Lexington, VA 24450, phone 540/463-8723, e-mail spclprog@wlu.edu, Web: alumnicollege.wlu.edu Skidmore College's Summer Special Programs, in Saratoga Springs, New York, invites several different groups to use its campus in summer for residential adult study programs, and all are open to the public at large. We're particularly impressed by the four-week creative-writing course of the New York State Writers Institute. Hosted jointly by Skidmore College and the New York State Writers Institute at the University at Albany, the program consists of courses in fiction, non-fiction, and poetry. Participants may enroll for two weeks or for the entire four week session; the courses can be taken for undergraduate and graduate credit or on a non-credit basis; academics are supplemented weeknights with evening readings by visiting and staff writers and on the weekends with publishing symposia and student readings. Among the distinguished visiting faculty are such luminaries as Lee K. Abbot, Julia Slavin, Rick Moody, Mary Gaitskill, Carol Phillips, Frank Bidart, and Philip Lopate. Another exciting option is the Summer Seminars in Judaic Studies, a renowned program since 1980. Summer Seminars bring together scholars and eager students to study in a "culturally and intellectually rich atmosphere." The seminars seek to "to broaden and deepen (participants') experience, knowledge and understanding of Jews and Judaism." Each of the three week-long summer seminars offer one course focusing on a single subject matter. In week three of 2004, for example, the course is "The Zionist Movement and Modern Israel." Beware: both programs are rigorous. A written form, (along with specific writing samples for the Writers Institute) as well as a $30 application fee, are necessary for admission to the programs. The application fee is deducted from the $700 cost of the program, which includes one week of tuition, housing, meals, and off-campus trips.  Contact Office of the Dean of Special Programs, Skidmore College, 815 North Broadway, Saratoga Springs, NY 12866-1632, (phone 518/ 580-5595) or view the website at skidmore.edu/administration/osp Three to nine-week summer classes at the University of Chicago Graham School of General Studies can cost more than $2,075 for those seeking college credit. But visiting adults can sit in on the classes and pay $1,300. There are language classes in Japanese, Korean, Greek, and Hebrew, as well as courses in computers, business, literature, history, and sociology. The prices only cover tuition, but rooms are available in a newly constructed dormitory for $195 per person per week (double room) or $235 per person per week (single room). You can also stay at single rooms with shared baths at the International House (1414 East 59th Street Chicago, Illinois 60637, 773/753-2270) can be booked for about $50/night or $900/month, not bad for this prime city location. For more information, contact Graham School, University of Chicago, 1427 East 60th Street, Chicago, IL 60637, phone 800/997-9689, e-mail uc-summer@uchicago.edu, Web: grahamschool.uchicago.edu