MADRID, Spain - Not again. Not here. Not now.
When I began Syracuse University's study abroad program in January, I pictured my semester in Madrid consisting of leisurely days eating tortilla and sipping sangria. This was going to be a way to hide for awhile, to get away from the evils of the world.
Then came March 11, and the terrorist bombs that killed at least 192 people also shattered my naïve expectations. Spain was subsequently thrown to the forefront of international news, with an upset election and the withdrawal of its troops from Iraq.
So much for getting away from it all.
Two months later, the frequent security announcements over the Metro loudspeakers and guards wearing neon orange vests are constant reminders of what Madrid has been through. Yet this city full of people with an indestructible love for life is trying to get back to normal, whatever that might be nowadays.
From my standpoint, normal is not letting the terrorist attacks dissuade me from going to crowded, popular places and visiting some of the most beautiful sites in Madrid, including museums, national landmarks and outdoor attractions. Of I just hide away at school, then the terrorists win (cliched but true).
Nor am I put off by the lousy exchange rate, as $1 now buys me a measly 0.85 euros. I'm going to get out and see it all before I leave--the city's attractions remain open to the public, and my favorite places usually cost no more than 15¬, relatively little dinero.
Here are just a few of the treasures that made my semester in Madrid--despite the terrorism, and despite my relative poverty--the adventure of a lifetime.
The "cure" of culture
My student checkbook doesn't allow me the freedom to spend at will, so Madrid's plentiful museums are a lifesaver. Most charge no more than 5¬ and have one or more days when they are free.
I'm no art buff, but I've proudly learned to tell a Goya from an El Greco at the world-famous Prado, which houses approximately 8,600 paintings, including Velazquez's masterpiece, "Las Meninas." It's worth much more than the 3-$3.55 admission, which happily for me I haven't had to pay as discounts and/or free entry are available for students, the unemployed and visitors under 18 and over 65. Sundays are best because they are free for everyone, as they are for most museums in Madrid. (Note that most museos are closed on Mondays.)
I tried my hand at modern art at the Reina Sofia (same fees as Prado in addition to free Saturday afternoons). There I stood awed in front of yet another masterpiece, Picasso's famous "Guernica", a particularly moving painting to view in light of recent events.
I didn't make it to the Thyssen-Bornemisza (4.80/$5.70) but I could have done so relatively inexpensively with my student ID card. But even had I been a "normal" visitor the cost would have been low had I purchased the Paseo del Arte, a combined pass to all three museums for just 7.66¬.
But there were more than enough other museums to fill my time as Madrid offers a museum for every interest. At the National Anthropology Museum (2.40-$2.80; free Saturday afternoons and Sundays), I examined Egyptian tombs and stood dwarfed by a mammoth's skull. Still more animal heads awaited me at the Bullfighting Museum (free), which also offers an impressive-- if not slightly morbid--display of matadors' torn, blood-stained garments.
All in the family
Waiting in line among swarms of chatty tourists isn't exactly my idea of fun, but it's worth it to see something as impressive as the Palacio Real, or Royal Palace ($9.50 entrance; 3$4.15 for students, children 5-16). Besides, the crowds helped me out--I saved a few euros by opting out of the guided tour and joining one that had already started. (This, of course, only worked because I was fortunate enough to speak the tour guide's language. I apologize to those who may view this practice as unethical but maintain that I am a poor student.) Visitors also walk through at their own pace; both times I've gone, I've spent much of my time in Charles III's throne room, enchanted with its decadent red velvet walls.
The palace will be closed from May 17-23 for the royal wedding of Prince Felipe and his journalist-bride, Letizia. Spaniards are a bit obsessed with the couple, and it's a fever that catches easily. I have come pretty darn close to buying numerous items--key chains, plates, even thimbles--with their images on them. (Let's hope I hold out.)
For those of us who have caught the bug and want to see where they'll tie the knot, the Almudena Cathedral, right next-door to the palace, is free of charge. It's stunning inside and out; take particular notice of its brightly-colored ceilings.
When in Rome
How could I live in Spain and not go to a bullfight or two? Though I wasn't sure how I would react to the corrida de toros, I soon found myself shouting "Ole!" as the matador completed artistic passes with his cape. The excitement is especially evident now that Madrid is in the thick of the fair devoted to its patron saint, Isidro; there's a fightevery day from now to June 5.
Tickets at Plaza de Las Ventas start at just $3.60-$4.25. Yet the less you pay, the more you'll sweat (and I can attest, burn), as seats in the sun (sol) are generally cheaper than those in the shade (sombra). In any case, they tend to sell fast.
Other seats that sell out quickly are to soccer--ahem, futbol--games. While I went mainly to see Beckham and what were once his long golden locks, true madrileños are devoted to all of their home team, RealMadrid. Tickets sell for as little as 15-$18 at the Santiago Bernabeu stadium, or call 902 324 324.
After seeing the toros and cheering on the team, it's time to go out (calling this Madrid's nightlife is hardly accurate, as things usually don't get started until at least midnight). My budget Bible for finding out about theater, concerts, restaurants, clubs and special events is the Guia del Ocio, a weekly Spanish magazine published every Friday and available at newsstands for $1.20. For English publications, I read InMadrid and The Broadsheet, free at many bars and bookstores.
The great outdoors
The rain in Spain often fell mainly on the plain this winter, so I didn't get as much outdoors time as I would have wished. But when I did I often explored the city's Retiro Park. Like New York's Central Park, Retiro Park is always bustling with activity, especially on weekends. Top sights? The numerous free street entertainersand the exhibitionist young lovers publicly displaying their affection for one another (another favorite Spanish pastime). The $4.75 my friend and I spent to rent a rowboat on the lake for 45 minutes was well worth it, even if people did laugh at us for our less-than-stellar rowing ability.
Another relaxing option is the Botanical Gardens ($2.40 adults, $1.20 for students, free for seniors, children under 10), where I leisurely walked around this "living museum" that dates back to the 18th century. It's filled with plants from around the world, from tulips to cacti. Curiously enough, I found myself stopping to read the labels. Who knew I had an inner botanist waiting to come out?
Jumping from plants to pharaohs, the Templo de Debod, an authentic Egyptian temple with beautiful reflecting pools, is one of my favorite spots in all of Madrid. Not only is there free entrance to the temple, but the site also affords a picturesque overlook.
Sunday mornings are often reserved for a visit to the Rastro, an outdoor flea market to beat all flea markets. This is where I pick up inexpensive souvenirs ($3.50 black-market CDs of the latest Spanish craze, $5 scarves). I've tried my hand at haggling with the vendors to bajar el precio (lower the price), and always make sure to watch my purse--pickpockets frequent this area--or this budget activity could turn costly.
Finally, I've never appreciated life and how lucky I am to be in Madrid--even with the horror of the attacks--as much as when I sit in the Plaza Mayor, listening to the strumming of guitars and watching the tourists and natives interact. The former generally gravitate toward the tourism office there, where they pick up free maps to guide them around some of the city's most beautiful plazas, such as Plaza del Oriente and Plaza de España.
And yet it is difficult to walk around Madrid without being reminded of the recent events, whether I'm witnessing an anti-war rally in the Puerta del Sol or reading the sorrowful memorials at the Atocha train station.
Being in Madrid during such trying times has forever linked me with this city. It is a place I hope to return to, for despite the tragedy, I had some of the best experiences of my life here.
A Presidential Tour of Virginia
At George Washington's Ferry Farm, the Virginia plantation where the nation's first president lived as a boy, you learn some of his youthful secrets. Like the time he took a dip in the Rappahannock River, which flows past the farm, and two women from a neighboring town pilfered his britches. "It's in the court records," I was told as I toured there recently. Did the Father of Our Country scamper home unclothed? I wondered. On that we can only speculate. Part of the fun of traveling to historical places is coming across odd, sometimes gossipy—but always fascinating—stories like this one, which add flesh and blood to notables like Washington who figure so prominently in school texts. In Virginia, four of America's first five presidents almost seem to step from the pages of history at the plantation homes where they once lived. You can meet them on a seven-day, budget-priced driving tour, in the footsteps of the Founding Fathers. The 500-mile loop itinerary out of Washington, D.C., takes you to Mount Vernon and two other plantations on which Washington lived; and on to Monticello, the gadget-filled home of Thomas Jefferson, America's third president. Settling nearby as neighbors—and good friends—were James Madison, the fourth chief executive, who called his mansion Montpelier, and James Monroe (the fifth) who retired to Ash Lawn-Highland. At these sites (and more), you learn about the everyday world of the men chosen to shepherd the new United States. The tour skips John Adams, the second president, who hailed from Massachusetts. To see Virginia's presidential quartet, plan on staying two nights each in three small colonial-era cities—Fredericksburg, Williamsburg, and Charlottesville. I've scouted out economy lodgings and good family-priced restaurants in each. Entrance fees at the presidential homes are modest. For recess from the history lessons, I've also pointed out inexpensive recreation. Outside Fredericksburg, take a cooling dip in lovely Lake Anna, a state park with an inviting sandy beach. Sample Virginia's fine vintages on a winery tour. Hike a shady segment of the famed Appalachian Trail not far from Monticello. Go tubing on the gentle James River. You'll mostly travel country roads past woodlands, fields, and pastures. But the focus of this drive is on the men—and their wives—who helped create the nation. They have the continuing power to inspire. We see them both as the pedestaled icons they have become and as the real-life men and women they actually were. What struck me most as I recently revisited their homes is that they achieved so much while facing daunting personal problems: the early death of loved ones, troublesome debts, family squabbles. Poor Madison, I learned at Montpelier, had to put up with an alcoholic stepson addicted to gambling. A disillusioning note is that all four-champions of freedom-kept slaves. This, too, is a story told at their plantations. Fredericksburg We know George Washington as a victorious general and astute president. But he was also a pioneering farmer, experimenting on new crops and methods of growing them. This is one of the stories told at Mount Vernon, the estate where he lived for 45 years. Little has changed, including the handsome furnishings in his white-pillared mansion (which you can tour) and its grand view across the Potomac River. Adult tickets from $17, kids ages 6-11 pay $8, $16 for seniors. As a farmer, Washington was especially proud of the massive 16-sided treading barn he designed to keep his wheat crop safe from the weather. Destroyed in the nineteenth century, it was rebuilt recently—and visitors can now watch his innovative structure at work. As my wife and I stood in the center, piles of newly cut wheat stalks were spread on the nearly circular plank floor. Then a trio of large horses, treading in a circle around us, separated the grain. Kernels fell though gaps in the floorboards to collecting bins below. Mount Vernon is 30 minutes south of Reagan National. You can stop for a half-day at the estate before continuing on for the evening to Fredericksburg, Washington's hometown. Devote the next day to visiting his boyhood homes: Popes Creek Plantation, where he was born, and Ferry Farm, where the family moved when he was six. Entrance to Popes Creek Plantation is free; admission to Ferry Farm is $8 for adults, $4 for students, and free for children under age 6. Officially designated the George Washington Birthplace National Monument, Popes Creek celebrates Washington's ancestors. His great-grandfather John, an English merchant seaman, was the first of the family to land in America in 1657, and he is buried here. The 550-acre park, about 38 miles east of Fredericksburg via Route 3, is maintained as a colonial-era farm with costumed interpreters. Devon oxen keep the grass mowed and a trio of turkeys struts. The river views are as lovely as Mount Vernon's. Pack a lunch and savor them at the picnic area. From Popes Creek, return to 115-acre Ferry Farm, just outside Fredericksburg. As a youth, Washington learned to hunt, ride, and farm—the skills of Virginia gentry. Here, too, is where he may have chopped down a cherry tree-wild cherries still abound—and perhaps tossed a stone across the Rappahannock. The river is not wide, and his arm was strong. Time your visit so you can watch archaeologists dig for colonial artifacts. In Fredericksburg's Historic District, you can also pick up the early footsteps of James Monroe. As a young man, he practiced law in the city. The James Monroe Museum, located at the site of his office, displays rich furniture pieces he took with him to the White House. As a history buff, I've known him as a statesman. But here I learned he was a Revolutionary War hero, wounded as a lieutenant the night Washington crossed the Delaware. His wife Elizabeth, so a guide told me, introduced place cards to society dining in America—etiquette she picked up when Monroe was minister to France. Admission is $5 for adults, $1 per child (ages 5 and under get in free). Getting thereFrom Reagan National, take the George Washington Parkway/Mount Vernon Memorial Highway south through Alexandria to Mount Vernon. After touring, continue west on Route 235 to Route 1 south and follow signs to I-95 south. The beach at Lake Anna State Park is about 25 miles southwest of the city. Where to Stay & EatExcept in summer, try for one of the 26 fully equipped cabins at Westmoreland State Park near Popes Creek. Contact them for current rates. Eat at Yesterdays in nearby Montross. In Fredericksburg, well-priced motels are clustered at the intersection of U.S. 17 and I-95. Try the 59-room Travelodge (800/578-7878), the 77-room Super 8 Motel (540/371-8900), or the 119-room Motel 6 (540/371-5443). Near the motels, the Johnny Appleseed Restaurant features southern cooking with full dinners under $9. In the Historic District, Sammy T's is a local favorite with a nineteenth-century look. Go for the quesadilla plate, $5.50. Williamsburg As the capital of England's richest American colony, Williamsburg drew important visitors. The footprints of Washington, Jefferson, and Monroe crisscross often here. Many lodgings, taverns, and government offices they frequented have been rebuilt or restored to create Colonial Williamsburg, a 173-acre eighteenth-century town. Washington served for 16 years in the House of Burgesses. Topped with a soaring cupola, Colonial Williamsburg's impressive brick capitol duplicates the one in which the burgesses met as revolutionary fervor grew in the 1770s. Jefferson and Monroe attended the College of William and Mary, adjacent to the Historic District. The school's beautiful eighteenth-century Wren Building, where they studied, is the oldest academic building in use in America. A lifelong scholar, Jefferson is credited with broadening the school's curriculum to include chemistry, medicine, and modern languages. As Virginia's second state governor, Jefferson occupied the Governor's Palace that earlier had housed England's colonial governors. A beautifully symmetrical structure, which had to be rebuilt, it was one of America's most ornate residences. As you exit, take a stroll—as Jefferson may have—through the garden's holly bush maze. Washington and Jefferson were often guests at Raleigh Tavern, a popular gathering spot also authentically reconstructed. Step inside for a tour. As a student of 20, Jefferson is known to have spent at least one especially gala evening here dancing and drinking - to excess, it seems. After the night's revelry, he complained in a letter to a friend, "I could never have thought the succeeding sun would have seen me so wretched." To meet Washington as a military commander, take the Colonial Parkway about 12 miles east to the Yorktown National Battlefield, where his troops won the war for independence in 1781. Stretch your legs as you walk among the still-evident trenches and earthworks he ordered dug beside the York River. Getting thereWilliamsburg and Yorktown are about 105 miles south of Fredericksburg via U.S. 17. Where to Stay & EatArea motels are plentiful and inexpensive. Summer-season rates begin at about $30; at the 22-room Rochambeau (800/368-1055), $32; the 75-room Econo Lodge Pottery (757/564-3341), $60; the 39-room White Lion (800/368-1055), $44; and the 108-room King William Inn (800/446-1041), $65 weekdays/$79 weekends. Dine one night at a colonial tavern. At Chowning's, full dinners begin at $14. A less expensive alternative, the Old Chickahominy House serves up a bountiful colonial lunch-fruit, Virginia ham, Brunswick stew, biscuits, homemade pie, and coffee—for $7.75. In Yorktown, meals at Nick's Seafood Pavilion, beginning at $7, come with a water view; a heaping seafood platter is $16. Charlottesville The homes of Jefferson, Madison, and Monroe all perch atop green hills with grand Blue Ridge views. Acres of fields and gardens surround them. So untouched is the setting, I find it easy to imagine each Founding Father is at home when I come calling. Jefferson designed Monticello himself, adding to it for 40 years. More than any museum house anywhere, it reflects its master's inquisitive and industrious nature. He filled it with gadgets he designed, such as the giant clock over the front door that faces both inside and out. Indoors, the clock sports two hands; outside, he placed only an hour hand—since, to quote my guide Charlie Gay, "You only have to know the approximate time when you're working outdoors." A man with expensive tastes, Jefferson furnished his beloved retreat lavishly—and died deeply in debt. Admission from $25 for adults, $16 for children ages 12-18, $8 for children ages 5-11, children under five are free. Two miles up the road, Monroe's Ash Lawn-Highland is humbler, seated at the end of a long entrance drive lined with ash trees. Monroe, instrumental in negotiating the Louisiana Purchase, held more major offices than any other president: senator, ambassador, governor, secretary of state, and secretary of war. His home displays many of the rich objects he and his wife acquired in their travels. In the drawing room stands a bust of Napoleon that the emperor himself gave to Monroe. Admission is $14 for adults, $8 for children ages 6-11, $12 for seniors over 60. Madison's Montpelier is located 30 miles north near Orange. Take Route 20, a scenic byway. Its entrance marked with four soaring pillars, Montpelier is a stately structure with a dual personality. Madison's lifelong home, it was acquired subsequently by a horse-loving Delaware du Pont, who greatly enlarged it. Scholarly and introverted, Madison was complemented by his vivacious wife Dolley, a born hostess, according to my guide Bob Carr. Admission is from $18 for adults, $7 for children 6-14, and free for children under age 6. Elsewhere in Charlottesville, the "academical village" Jefferson designed for the University of Virginia was cited in 1976 by the American Institute of Architects as "the proudest architectural achievement of the nation's first 200 years." His magnificent Rotunda is patterned after Rome's Pantheon. Jefferson so loved the university that he ordered "Founder of the University of Virginia" carved onto his Monticello tomb, ignoring his presidency. Two miles from Monticello, the city-run Monticello Visitor Center displays 400 original Jefferson objects. As a study break, stop for a complimentary tasting at Jefferson Vineyards, a 50-acre vineyard near Monticello. After all, Jefferson is considered America's first wine connoisseur. Or drive south 18 miles on Route 20 to Scottsville, where James River Runners will put you in a rubber tube on the James River. The fee is from $24 per tube. Just 18 miles west, hike along the Appalachian Trail through Shenandoah National Park. Getting thereCharlottesville is 120 miles west of Williamsburg. The fastest way is via I-64; the most scenic, Route 6 west from Richmond. En route, stop in Richmond to see the neoclassical State Capitol Building Jefferson helped design when Richmond succeeded Williamsburg as the capital city. A famed full-size statue of Washington stands in the Rotunda. Where to Stay & EatThe 37-room Budget Inn (800/293-5144) is an easy walk from the college campus; $46 weekdays/$55 weekends. Other choices: On the northern outskirts, the 115-room Knights Inn (804/973-8133), $54 weekdays/$65 weekends, or the 65-room Super 8 (800/800-8000), $49 weekdays/$59 weekends. In Orange, the new 65-room Holiday Inn Express (540/672-6691) occupies a Monticello-like hill with a view, $85. Just outside Monticello, eighteenth-century Michie Tavern serves the same hearty buffet lunch daily. For $10.95 (adults), the bill of fare lists fried chicken, black-eyed peas, cole slaw, mashed potatoes, corn bread, stewed tomatoes, green beans, "tavern beets," and biscuits. Across the street from the UVA campus, join students for budget meals at the College Inn, a pub where the eight-ounce steak platter (fries, salad) comes to $9.50. Up the street, the Virginia offers a baby back rib plate for $8.95. An easy walk from the Knights Inn and Super 8, the Chiang House Restaurant features lemon chicken at $7.45. Next door, heap your plate high at the Wood Grill Buffet; a choice of salads, entrees, and desserts runs $7.99.