Transcript: New Orleans

Planning a vacation calls for tough decisions--where to go, what to do and see, how to please the kids and yourself at the same time. But there's an easy solution. Cruising. On a cruise, there's fun for every family member: kids and teens have special events; adults have a huge range of activities, day and night. So the whole family has a fine time at each member's level of interest. It's foreign travel without the worry--you take your hotel with you, the Captain does the driving and the ship's personnel becomes your personal staff, freeing you to experience new activities while you sample the culture of foreign destinations around the world. The hardest part about taking a cruise is picking the right ship and itinerary for you--let me help guide you through the hundreds of ships out there and point you in right direction to find the best deals. Carolyn Spencer Brown answered your questions Tuesday, July 20, at noon EST. Carolyn Spencer Brown, one of America's leading cruise journalists, is editor of Cruise Critic (cruisecritic.com), the industry's most prominent outlet for consumer-oriented cruise travel news and information. Brown formerly covered the cruise industry as a staff writer for the travel section of The Washington Post, where she also wrote about numerous other facets of traveling, as a contributor to "Coming and Going," the newspaper's weekly travel news column, and as author of other news, trend- and destination-oriented features. As a cruise journalist, Brown also has extensive freelance experience; her work has appeared in national magazines and major newspapers. Prior to accepting the editor's position at Cruise Critic, she had been a major contributor to the web site for the last four years. She was responsible for launching Cruise Critic's daily news column, now a web site staple, and has written everything from cruise reviews to feature stories. _______________________ Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, everybody, welcome to Budget Travel Online's weekly live chat. As you can see from the intro above, this week we're talking about cruise vacations and I'm happy to answer as many of your questions as I can. Please feel free, though, to submit your own answers to other folks questions--advice, warnings, and we especially anecdotal stories. Don't be shy! Okay, here we go. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: My husband and I are very interested in taking a cruise. My husband is afraid that I will book a cruise ship that is not suited to our personalities (We've heard boredom stories). How do I gather info re: the ships target age group, activities and social actives/environment without the help of a travel professional (or do you suggest that I hire one)? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Atlanta. Well, a really good travel agent will "interview" you to get a sense of your likes and dislikes and then help you to make an informed decision. On the other hand, it's your vacation - and ultimately you're the one who really cares if you've picked the right ship. One trick I like to use is to ask people: what type of car do you drive and what type of hotel chain do you prefer? If you can write back and let me know - I'll offer a recommendation! Beyond that&one good way is to research, as much as possible. Our site'' great for that, others are too. Read professional reviews, read reader-submitted reviews, and feel free to post questions on the message board. A good guidebook to check out - can'' remember the name of it - but it'' by Douglas Ward (and that'' all you need to know! He updates it every few years). Hope that helps. _______________________ Newark, DE: I will be cruising for the first time, leaving on Halloween night, for the Southern Caribbean! Is it best to plan and/or reserve my adventures before getting on the ship or should I wait and see what is offered? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Newark, I'm a big fan of booking -- or at least planning -- for shore tours, whether it's through the ship or through independent operators -- in advance. It's a bummer when you get onboard and find out the one tour you wanted in Kona (okay this is my recent experience), a chocolate tour, is sold out and waitlisted...and there's no way. _______________________ Brooklyn, NY: We are living in an era of megaliners. The ships seem to be the destination. Are there smaller ships, say of 40,000 - 50,000 tons (or smaller) available to the "average income" cruiser? It seems the smaller ships cater to the high-end cruise market or to the European market. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Brooklyn. While the jumbo-sized cruise ships are indeed the ones getting most of the media attention (basically because they're newer, glitzier, etc.) there are other options out there. One of my favorites in the mid-size category (and we're talking about 700 passengers) is any cruise line using one of the former Renaissance Cruises R-series vessels. You may recall Renaissance had eight basically identical 30,000-ton, 700-passenger ships - all built in 1998 - 1999 - when the company folded after September 11. They feature(d) a design at the time that was so innovative major cruise lines are still catching up (affordable balconies - and lots of them, all open-seating dining, alternative restaurants). The ships have been sold or leased to a variety of operators. Probably my favorite has been Oceania Cruises''Insignia (they also have Regatta, a near copy); fabulous service and food. They spend winter in the Caribbean/South America and summer in Europe. Princess Cruises operates two of the former R-class ships - Tahitian Princess sails year-round in French Polynesia while Pacific Princess ranges from Australia/New Zealand to Alaska. And I also loved Swan Hellenic. This is a one-ship cruise line, based in the U.K., that emphasizes educational cruising and I had a terrific sailing on that. Beyond that, what you'l' find (pretty much) in the 40,000 - 50,000 ton category is mid-sized - and what we call today middle aged - ships that may not have all the bells and whistles of newer vessels. They might also be a bit more&shabby chic (sometimes not all that chic). You may not be able to get a balcony, there may be no alternative restaurants, etc. It's'a tradeoff of course - because for the most part cruise lines are putting their money into the newer vessels. But in this case I'd 'ake a look at a handful that are still quite popular. Royal Caribbean recently gave its Empress of the Seas (48,000-tons, 1,600-passengers) a major overhaul (it's 'ow got a rock climbing wall and an alternative restaurant). Limited balconies. Holland America's 'rinsendam (38,000-tons, 784 passengers) is another ship that's 'otten a makeover. And of course the luxury-minded cruise lines tend, with the exception of Crystal, to fall into your category - one of the nicest cruises I ever took was on Radisson Seven Seas Cruises' P'ul Gauguin (18,000 tons, 384 passengers!). Does anyone out there have a favorite mid-sized ship to recommend? _______________________ Toronto, Canada: I'm on a strict low-cholesterol diet. How easy will it be to get food that will ensure that I can stick to my diet on board ship? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Toronto, it's actually a lot easier than you'd think. You can still indulge in way-too-hearty (and way-too-much) food on cruise ships but all the majors offer healthy-oriented menus. Low-carb is a big thing right now as well. I'd recommend you look into lines such as Holland America, Crystal and Celebrity in particular; but they're all trying to accommodate more health-ful eating patterns to some degree. _______________________ Greenwood, SC: Why aren't there more all-inclusive cruises that include your beverages as well as meals? The last cruise we were on I couldn't relax because I felt like I was nickeled and dimed to death with our drinks. I was charged close to $5.00 for every bottle of water, soft drink, beer, and glass of wine. Our tab and the end of the cruise included more drinks than anything else. And heaven forbid you try to put a six pack of Coke in your suitcase. They will confiscate it immediately! Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Greenwood (SC). There is no such thing as a totally all-inclusive cruise, alas (even the luxury lines that include alcohol or gratuities still usually charge for stuff like spa services and shore excursions). But some are more inclusive than others. There'' a reason for that. If you look at many cruise fares, well, they''e pretty inexpensive ($399 for a seven day Caribbean cruise? It'' cheaper than staying home). So cruise lines, particularly those of the big ship variety, have to make it up somewhere else. If you don't'want to be nickel and dimed (and I feel your pain), you'l' want to look at what it is perhaps my favorite-of-all-time cruise experience - on either of SeaDream Yacht Club's'two 110-passenger "y"chts"."Everything, including room service caviar (with all the fixings), gratuities, house-poured wine, cocktails, and free use of bikes and watersports toys, is part of the fare. And the fare's'pretty reasonable for what you get. I call that great value for money. Other lines to look at include Radisson Seven Seas and Silversea. In a test program, Windstar is starting to offer an occasional (relatively) all-inclusive cruise. If luxury cruising isn't 'n option, two pieces of advice. First: beware of cruise line bring-aboard alcohol policies. Many of the majors now confiscate liquor you bring on board. It's 'ighly controversial. Passengers hate it. I hate it. I understand the rule about not bringing your own drinks into public areas - absolutely - but penalizing folks who want to drink a glass of wine on their balcony while they watch the sunset? Ridiculous. Ridiculous, that is, unless you're'abusing the system (rolling on kegs of beer or cases of wine). Okay, I'm g'tting off my soapbox now. Point is: If you buy a bottle of wine in port the security screeners may (or may not - the worst part is it's n't predictable) confiscate it. Check out our recent story, "At "our Service: Cruise Line Alcohol Policies" (h"tp://www.cruisecritic.com/tips/tipsarticle.cfm?ID=99) on the subject. Re sodas, you have two options. If a ship offers a soda card - this is when you pay about $4 a day and can drink unlimited sodas - that's a 'ood value. Otherwise, I do what a lot of folks do: I buy six packs in port and bring em on. So far there's no'rule prohibiting that. _______________________ Chicago, IL: I am looking at going on the fall foliage cruise with Carnival from NYC. I will be traveling with a senior, an 11-year-old and a 2-year-old. How do you feel about this? We got a price for all 4 of us in an inside cabin for $2060 (without air). Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Chicago. I think you're going to be a little cramped in that cabin -- but, depending on the length of the cruise (how long is it) as long as y'all have a great attitude and just use the cabin to sleep -- you're going to have a blast! _______________________ Cambridge, MA: Hi: In your opinion, what is the best website or source to book cruises at the lowest prices. Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Cambridge, good question, I can't answer that one. We don't book cruises but many of our advertisers do -- so I'd suggest trying a couple of them and seeing which one works for you.... _______________________ Sicklerville, NJ: Carolyn, you recently cruised on the NCL Pride of Aloha in Hawaii. I read your review, which was very balanced. What is your opinion on the so-called, mandatory, "resort fee" ($10/day, per person) that NCL charges on that cruise? I think it is outrageous, and should be eliminated. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Thanks for the nice comment, Sicklerville (hey, where, by the way, is Sicklerville?&our office is near Princeton). The resort fee on Pride of Aloha is, I'll grant you, a little bizarre, but Norwegian Cruise Line's president has gone on record as saying, essentially, it replaces the overall gratuity. Even if it'' not technically a gratuity (the way that NCL pays staffers onboard that one ship - because of its American flag status - is so different from any other cruise line, including NCL, that it'' just a complicated issue). What I disliked more - and did say this in the virtual wrap up I wrote on Cruise Critic - was the spa'' mandatory resort fee charge. That was appalling as I thought the spa itself was completely mediocre - and nobody bothered to explain it to me so that I did not, in the end, wind up leaving a tip (and as a 20 percenter I was embarrassed about that afterwards). Also, I did not appreciate being auto-charged a $2.50 "d"nation" "o Honolulu's'Bishop Museum. Ask me and I'd'happily make the contribution. But to just ding me for it - tacky tacky tacky. _______________________ Wilmington, DE: Hi! Could you give me your opinion on the Carnival cruise line, specifically the Destiny. We were planning on cruising to the Southern Caribbean and were thinking of this ship. Thank you! Carolyn Spencer Brown: Wilmington, I cruised on Destiny a few years ago -- had fun, loved our cabin (Carnival's newest ships have some of the biggest standard cabins in the industry). Another in the Carnival mega ship family include Carnival Conquest...both definitely have something for everyone. _______________________ East Greenwich, RI: Would you advise cruise passengers to advise the cruiseline if they had a bad stomach in the 48 hours prior to boarding the ship or during the cruise? Princess ships doctor would not accept my wife on the Dawn in Alaska because she had a bad stomach 36 hours before boarding. This was even though we had a doctors note saying it was not the Norwalk virus. Princess had no plans in place as to how to handle us as a result of being not allowed to board. Ruined our "dream" vacation. Carolyn Spencer Brown: East Greenwich, what happened when they refused to let you board? Did they refund your money or give you credit for a new cruise? This is a touchy issue because cruise lines are so much more vigilant and careful now regarding the threat of Norovirus (it's an easily spreadable and quite horrid virus that has plagued the cruise industry - --ot to mention hospitals and schools). I think perhaps they could have been more sensitive...but they have the very real worry that a sick passenger can pass this on to, say, 2,000 other sick passengers! And that's a nightmare. Has anybody else been turned away? _______________________ _______________________ Chicago, IL: I recently took a 14-day cruise which cost my family of 4 over $10,000. After it was too late to cancel without penalty, the cruiseline informed us that their ship had one of four engines out of commission and they were deleting a port of call and changing the itinerary times for the others. What rights do I have? I chose this cruiseline because it had the most ports of call and least amount of sea days. It turned out to be an itinerary with double the sea days and an average amount of ports of call. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Chicago, I regret to say you have no recourse. Cruise lines, in the midst of a lot of legal mumbo-jumbo, give themselves an out on the contract that's printed across the back of your cruise documents. What you experienced is one of the risks of cruising, alas. There's no guarantee - whether it's weather or mechanical malfunction - that you will actually go to the port of your dreams. I'' urge folks to beware of setting sights too high on visiting one particular place (and this definitely applies to couples who plan to get married on an island during a port of call or people who want to meet up with families at a destination). Beware of the fact that ""tuff happens.""I will say - and you don't'mention this in your query - that if it's'mechanical cruise lines tend to compensate passengers (usually with onboard credit) - did they? If it's ' weather related issue you just have to suck it up. It's 'egrettable, certainly (I was on a ship in the Caribbean recently that was slated to be the first to call at Montserrat since the volcano disaster and we were so excited to see it&but weather was so bad the ship couldn't 'et in and we wound up at St. Kitts instead. Still had fun but...). Chicago, let us know who it was - and what they offered passengers as a result of the changed itinerary& _______________________ Livingston, NJ Dear Carolyn, My friend and I are going on a Mediterranean Cruise with Princess cruise lines this September 2004. I am a little nervous about the port in Casablanca, Morocco. It was not until after the fact in booking this trip that I was told that there was a terrorist attack in this port last year in May. I have mixed feelings about getting off the ship when we arrive at this port. Please give me your advice on what to do? Also, are the other ports that we are going to safe, which are Barcelona, Spain, Gibraltar, Cannes, France and in Italy: Messina, Naples, Florence and Rome. I appreciate your expertise on this! Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Livingston. While there are no guarantees - in cruising, in life, wherever - I wouldn't worry about Casablanca. Trust me on this: cruise lines really have sophisticated security programs and they will not go to a port if they don't deem it safe. In one example, after 9-11 the Eastern Mediterranean virtually disappeared off itineraries for the next year or so because of the perception (or possibly the reality) that those ports of call weren't safe. Also, the latest raft of ISPS port security rules take the commitment of safety even a little bit further; read our story, Trendwatch: Security on High Alert (http://www.cruisecritic.com/interests/intarticle.cfm?ID=48) on the issue. _______________________ Columbia, SC: My husband and I are booked for a cruise with several other couples a few months from now. What is a neat idea or treat for surprising the group we travel with? Carolyn Spencer Brown: This is a fun question, Columbia! Depending on the ship and itinerary, there are a bunch of things - and I'm going to also throw this out to participants in today's chat. I'd love to hear your suggestions. *You could plan a really fun shore outing&rent a limo, make a reservation at a fabulous restaurant, take in some sights. *You could arrange a private cocktail party. A lot of ships have rooms they'l' make available (you pay for drinks and hors d'o'uvres) - or if you have a suite, you can order the fixings from room service (there's'a charge). *Arrange for dinner in a private dining room? Depends on the ship&could be fun, particularly if you could pick the menu et al. Guys? Help me here! _______________________ New York, NY: What are some of your travel tips for cruising with very young children? I'm interested in cruises that have organized services for babies and toddlers. Thanks! Carolyn Spencer Brown: We've got tons 'o tips NY, NY -- best bet is to go to Cruise Critic and type, in the search area, family. We have a number of features that are written by cruise journalists who have kids...and so they know of what they speak! Would love feedback from y'all if there are specific suggestions.... _______________________ Bronx, NY: My husband and I are first-time cruisers anxiously anticipating going on a cruise - we're in our late 30's - would you suggest a particular cruise line to start with? Carolyn Spencer Brown: It helps, Bronx, to have more specifics about your likes and dislikes but I will say good all-around choices would be Carnival, Royal Caribbean and Princess. If cuisine really really matters, then I'd go with Celebrity. And I'd aim for the newer ships in these fleets as they have the most activities, restaurant choices, etc. Good luck. _______________________ Toms River, NJ: Carolyn, I'm a regular poster and reader of the board. Board is a great source of info. What do you think about taking the NCL Crown out of Philly to Bermuda next April with 2 kids, ages 6 & 11. We were on the Dawn last month and loved the Freestyle dining. Carolyn Spencer Brown: I haven't been on the NCL Crown (and we're trying to get on it to review it but haven't had much luck) but from what I know about that ship, Toms River, is that it's world's away from Norwegian Dawn. It's older, smaller, not as...contemporary. But if that doesn't matter, by all means go for it! _______________________ Washington, DC: Hi, How do I go about finding out if it is better to be on the Port side or the Starboard side of a cruise. My husband and I are doing the RCL Southern Caribbean, I've called them at least 3 times, no one seems to know the answer! We want to be on the side that has the most people watching, i.e. the side that embarks/debarks. Thanks much! Carolyn Spencer Brown: To be honest, WDC, it doesn't really matter...and where it does matter (if you want your cabin to be facing the ocean while in port or vice versa) you'll never nail down because even captains don't always know whether they'll go straight in -- or back in -- depends on various factors. If you're sailing, for instance, a roundtrip San Juan trip, you'll get the sunset going south (if you are on the starboard side) or get it north (if you are on the port side).... _______________________ Poughkeepsie, NY: I want to take a cruise to the Caribbean, specifically to St. Johns to see the Virgin Islands National Park. I've noticed that not many ships, if any, stop on this island. It's right next to St. Thomas, so I assume there is a way to get there. What is it? And what is the best ship(s) to do this from? Thanks. P.S. I am a first-time cruiser that gets very seasick. Carolyn Spencer Brown: The only ships that stop in St. John (and notice it's St. John and not St. John's -- the latter refers to Antigua) are small ones -- like Windstar and SeaDream Yacht Club ships. If you're on a tour that goes to St. John, some cruise ships will anchor first thing in the morning and send the tours ashore by tender. I used to live in St. John and could watch, every Wednesday morning, as a Holland America ship did just that! Otherwise, it's not all that hard to get to St. John. Simply hop in a safari cab bound for Red Hook; there's a ferry there, leaves on the hour, takes 20 minutes, costs $3 and is a gorgeous ride. Just make sure you plan ahead to get back to the ship on time! PS There's also a ferry that leaves from downtown Charlotte Amalie but it sails through rougher waters.... _______________________ Denver, CO: If you were given $10,000 to use for one 10 day cruise, would you choose a top cabin on a premium line (i.e. Royal Suite on Celebrity) or a regular cabin (i.e. balcony on Crystal) on a Luxury line? Why? Carolyn Spencer Brown: I love this question, Denver, are you going to pony up afterwards? I'd pick - --nd I don't have kids or there'd be a different answer - -- regular cabin on a luxury line. I like smaller ships, personal service means a lot to me, I'm big into fine dining and I don't particularly care about nightlife (and so on and so forth). But: if I had kids I'd make the other choice...so we could have the kids program - an-- other options. Does that help? _______________________ Decatur, GA: Hi, We are going on a 4-day cruise to the Bahamas in August on the Sovereign of the Seas. Will we be out of place if we wear formal clothes (including tuxedos) on the formal night? Or is a 4-day cruise like this more casual? Carolyn Spencer Brown: It's more casual but I believe there's still a formal night. Read your travel documents really closely when you get them, Decatur, and it'll tell you if there's a formal night. And you will be a mite...over-elegant in that tux...but who cares.......... _______________________ Islamorada, FL: For Columbia...Many of the cruise lines offer having your (or a friend's) cabin decorated with banners and streamers. This is booked through the same office that delivers flowers and candy to passengers. Why not have your fellow travelers' cabins secretly decorated before they arrive onboard? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Love that, Islamorada, thanks! _______________________ Kansas City, MO: I was told that prior to 9/11 travelers could show up at a cruise line and if the ship was not fully booked you could get good deals on a cruise. Is this still the case? Also, what is the secret to saving as much money as possible for a family on a limited budget, but would still like to take a cruise? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Alas, Kansas City, that is a possibility no more. These days cruise lines are required by law to submit passenger manifests within 24 - 48 hours of departure so&it's a no go. In fact, many cruise lines quit taking reservations even prior to that - two - four weeks beforehand. In terms of getting the best fare possible, cruise lines these days are also doing everything they can to convince passengers to book early - as in six months to one year prior. So the best values - free balconies, upgrades, free air - come early in the game. If you''e getting a good price on a last minute cruise it'' probably on a less desirable ship (and in a least desirable cabin). So, the secret is (at least for now): start shopping around about a year out and just keep an eye on "s"les"."That's'especially true for school holiday seasons by the way. Otherwise, plan to cruise during "o"f seasons" "not sure if you can do that with your kids) - September - early December in the Caribbean (and then again in early January); late April/early May and September for Alaska, etc. Good luck! _______________________ Las Vegas, NV: Hi, I'm looking for a relatively inexpensive vacation for my 6-year old daughter and myself. We're close to LA, so something out of Los Angeles would be great. I want to go somewhere warm (ocean), like maybe the Bahamas or the Caribbean. I've never taken a cruise or been outside the United States. As I am a single mom, I have a limited budget, but I would like something fun to do with my daughter. She loves the water also. Could you offer any suggestions or lead me in the right direction?? Thank you so much for your time. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Las Vegas. Glad you're thinking about cruising. I have good news and bad news. First the bad news. It's very hard (long trip, more expensive) to get to the Caribbean from Los Angeles - pretty much the only way to do that is to sail through the Panama Canal. Otherwise, you'' just have to shop for great airfares from Las Vegas to the East Coast (your best bets would be ships that sail out of Miami or Ft. Lauderdale). The good news? From Los Angeles (or San Diego) you''e got the option of the Mexican Riviera (most typical ports are Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta), which is really starting to take off. By that I mean - while the Mexican Riviera has long been on cruise lines' 'ists of itineraries, they'r' just now starting to assign newer, bigger, better-equipped vessels to the region (for instance, Disney, in its first ever foray to the West Coast, is going to sail its Disney Magic there - though I can promise you that one won't'be a bargain). I'd'check into Princess, NCL and Carnival&. There are plenty of seven day (and shorter) options and this is definitely a kid-friendly trip. And great for watersports lovers&. _______________________ Fort Lauderdale, FL: What amount of money would be appropriate to tip when requesting a large table for 8 on a week long cruise (RCCL, Explorer of the Seas)? We are an extended family and want to sit together and also want a good table location. Thanks. Carolyn Spencer Brown: This is a terrific question, Ft. Lauderdale, and for the answer I went to one of our correspondents, who's working on a best-ways-to-tip piece for us. Here's what he says: ""n their pre-cruise registration the family of eight should indicate they want a table for eight and indicate that they want to sit together, listing all names on all registrations. Assuming the line does the right thing, they will find themselves at the same table for eight. This will cost them nothing. "O"ce on board, they should take their table assignment cards to the dining room to see if they like the location of their table. If it meets their approval, they have what they want for free. If they do not like the location, they can go to the maitre d' and request a table change. Assuming it is possible, he/she will accommodate the request. The only time I offered money at this stage of the game, it was politely refused. The time to remember favors is the last night. If they were moved to a nicer table, $40 would be a nice tip on top of the service charge added to their bill." " _______________________ Anonymous: Is there such a thing as a discounted Disney cruise? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Every line has sales, so yes, Anon, there is such a thing. Don't expect much of a discount during school holiday periods (Xmas, Summer, spring break) but in off times...hunt away. _______________________ San Antonio, TX: Hello. In April, 2004 my husband and I purchased a balcony cabin on a cruise ship out of Miami, with RC lines. We got a pretty good deal compared with the prices now. The cruise is in late September. We now want to take our two young adult children and want to book an inside cabin. The price are really much higher. My question: Is it possible to get a good deal on a September cruise at the last minute? Where can I get the best prices? How do we negotiate the best prices, is it possible to negotiate with the Internet cruise companies? Thanks for your help!! Carolyn Spencer Brown: It's pretty hard to negotiate with anyone, agency wise (or cruise line wise); it's important to shop around of course. What you -- and others who have written today about not seeing good deals on last minute voyages -- are seeing is that cruise lines are really trying to sell cabins as far out as possible. That's when you're going to get the good deal. So if you wait too long - --ou might still get a bargain (we have a last minute cruise bargains newsletter you can sign up for - --t goes out weekly and it's free) but you won't the best cabins.... _______________________ Richmond, VA: This is for Cambridge, MA. One of the best sites that I have found for discount cruises is http://www.cruisecomplete.com/. You select a particular cruise that you want to do, and the cruisecomplete will ask multiple travel agents to give quotes on the cruise. Carolyn Spencer Brown: That's a great tip, Richmond, thanks a lot. _______________________ Healdsburg, CA: We have traveled throughout Europe and have taken a couple of cruises around coastal Europe (Rome - Barcelona, London - Stockholm). We've heard that river cruises are a good way to see the interior cities and such. Can you advise? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Healdsburg - used to live there, it's one of the most lovely places in America! River cruising is this once quite-small (and in all honesty it's still small, compared to ocean cruising) niche of travel that's growing incredibly these days. So much so that we''e just launched a first-ever dedicated section that focuses only on river and canal cruising. In fact, tomorrow we''e going to feature a new review and ""ish you were here""feature from one of our writers who just returned from a Po River trip in Italy. The neat thing about it is that the ports at which they called - --ologna, Parma, Verona, Mantua, and Padua - are the kind of places that ocean ships never go to. And in fact the more usual way is to rent a car (or take a train) and schlep your stuff from city to city. And of course on a cruise - you just pack and unpack once. Other places in Europe that are prime for river cruising? The Rhine (Germany), Danube (Austria/Germany), Rhone (Provencal France), even Russia, Portugal, the Netherlands, and, really new and hot trend-wise, this year, Eastern Europe. Thanks for writing. _______________________ Westerly, RI: Can you suggest the best cruise lines for cruising with teens aged 14 and 15? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Westerly. With climbing walls and ice-skating rinks, Royal Caribbean's Voyager-class ships (Adventure, Explorer, Mariner, Navigator, and Voyager Of The Seas) is a super choice for older kids. I cruised on Adventure of the Seas recently, and can assure you that it is nearly impossible to be bored with so many activities onboard, a teens-only nightclub and lots of food! Another plus: teens are separated into two groups on these ships - --2-14 and 15-17 - --hich means the activities will be more age appropriate (but also means your kids might be split up). Another choice: Princess' newest ships, Diamond Princess and Sapphire Princess. Here, kids 13 - 17 are grouped into one teen group, Off Limits, and have access to a teens-only disco as well as a host of other activities. I just returned from a cruise onboard Sapphire Princess, and only much older teens - I'-- say closer to 17 or 18 - se--med to be too old or too "cool" for the ship's scheduled activities (most nights I saw them loafing around in the buffet or near the pools looking a bit bored). _______________________ Denver, CO: No, I'm not going to pony up for the $10,000..... But that's what we routinely spend for our 11 to 14 day cruises. No kids. We have so far chosen the top cabins on premium lines for the space. I love having two rooms /vs only one in a regular cabin. Celebrity also provides the Butler service that we really enjoy. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Gotcha, thanks for the inspiration, Denver. _______________________ Saint Cloud, FL: Does the Cruise Industry in general show interest in boards like CC and others as a means of feedback and improvement? What other sources does the cruise industry use to gauge customer satisfaction? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Yes! Saint Cloud the funniest thing is that the emergence of message boards like those on Cruise Critic have actually opened up a whole new job description - cruise lines actually have created positions for employees who simply monitor the boards and then pass along relevant comments, criticisms and the like to the appropriate staffers. It goes even further than that&but we also know that cruise line executives - all the way up to president and CEO-level folks - not only watch the boards but also occasionally post on them! _______________________ Glassboron, NJ: My husband has recently had double-knee replacement surgery. We would like to take a cruise in August with our two sons, ages 10 & 12, preferably from Philadelphia or Baltimore. What sort of handicapped accommodations should we and can we seek in order for my husband to travel comfortably? He is currently walking with a cane but will not be fully mobile until late Fall. Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: All ships, Glassboron, especially if they call at any American port, are required to maintain certain standards when it comes to facilities and accommodations for folks who are disabled in some way or another. In your case, I'' take a look at newer ships - they tend to have more of the bells and whistles. But regardless, ships like Royal Caribbean'' Grandeur of the Seas, and Celebrity'' Galaxy (both go out of Baltimore this fall) are fine choices. In Philly, regulars are Norwegian Crown and Celebrity Horizon - these are considered older ships. Probably fine, but I'' trek the extra few miles to Baltimore myself. Plus I think your kids will have more fun on those. Now here's'a thought. Not sure how far Cape Liberty (Bayonne) is from your neck o the woods&but Royal Caribbean's'Voyager is sailing out of there this summer. That would be a fantastic trip for your kids&and y'a'l would enjoy it too! _______________________ Toronto Canada: We are going on a cruise southward down the Pacific coast from Victoria, BC to San Diego in September. What will the waters be like, rough or relatively calm, at that time of year? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Toronto, I haven't sailed that route - so, fellow passengers, what say you? - but will say that I've heard from folks who have&and that it can be pretty rough at any time of the year. Anybody out there have a tale to tell? _______________________ Murrells Inlet, SC: Carolyn: I have heard that some cruise lines have one hour sales or one day sales. Is this correct and if so when are these sales posted? Thanks. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Great question, Murrells Inlet. We haven't heard of anything like a one-hour sale...but there are some sales that are just in effect for a day or so (especially for last minute deals). Honestly, like airlines, there's no real rhyme or reason as to when and if this is going to happen! The best way to stay on top of cruise bargains is to sign up for Web e-mail services. We've got one (it's called "Last Minute Cruise Sails" and is weekly and free); others do too...like TravelZoo. Also, many travel agencies, like cruise.com and cruisebrothers.com, also send out weekly deal e-mails to cruisers who've signed up on their Web sites. Good luck. _______________________ Boston, MA: We would like to take our children (boys, ages 5 and 8) on a 4-day cruise next February. Disney cruises seem to get the highest grades for children, but are also among the most expensive. Do you have any more reasonable suggestions? Thanks. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Boston. Disney's definitely the original but I also like Carnival, Princess and Royal Caribbean -- plus they have more ships and so...more availability. I'd go for the newer vessels in these fleets, though, as they tend to have the best kids play areas...and programs. _______________________ Houston, TX: Do you see other cruise lines having get-togethers similar to the Meet & Mingles on Royal Caribbean, or the Celebrity Connections? I am a Cruise Critic addict, and it seems that those of us who have an actual meeting to look forward to interact more, and in the process, get better prepared for a cruise. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Houston. While the only "officially sponsored" parties are on Royal Caribbean and Celebrity, we encourage our community members to meet each other on our ROLL CALL forums -- and plan a special gathering on their own. _______________________ Berwick, PA: On a transatlantic on the QM2, is there a difference in dress between Queen's Grill and Brittania? E.g. if it's casual night, do people in Queen's dress really "casual" (no tie) or do they "dress up" more than that? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Actually we're just getting ready to launch our QM2 review...and generally, our reviewer tells me, Brittania's ambiance, dress and otherwise, is like that of any new mega ship (from Princess to Celebrity) while Queen's Grill is a bit more elegant.... Thanks, Berwick. _______________________ Topeka, KS: Do you know where I can find a menu for a Norwegian cruise out of Houston in August? My kids are interested in knowing what is available before they head to the dining room. thanks. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Well, Topeka, ordinarily I'd just suggest that you call the cruise line and ask - but I'm thinking that would be fruitless. Why not go onto our boards, find the NCL board, and ask your question there&that way someone who's recently sailed on Norwegian Sea (that's the ship, right?) might have it handy. Good luck! _______________________ Portland, OR: I am looking for river cruise between Moscow and St. Petersburg during June 2005 with a few days at each end in Moscow and St Petersburg. I've found a couple of different ways to go. A travel agent recommends Viking, but no one seems to know anything about other companies. Help! Questions: What about booking the same cruise through General Tours or directly through the company? Russia in June? We can't leave before mid-June; the weather looked good to me then, what do you think? I know we want to see the circus and the ballet, what more? Maybe more obscure...any historic houses? Anything special we should take on the trip, clothing or supplies? Thanks so much. Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Portland. We haven't reviewed this itinerary (yet) but there's a thread on our boards (look under special interests, then click on river cruising). In the meantime, most of the cruises out there actually overnight (at least one sometimes more) on either of the route so you get that couple of days in Moscow and St. Petersburg. I know that, beyond Viking River - --hich is the leader in this area and has been sailing this route for a while - --eilmann is offering cruises. The ships, I understand, are a little bit fustier than the norm - --t seems river cruise lines are spending to build swankier models on the major rivers in Europe like Danube, Rhine, etc. I'd book through the company unless the tour operator offers something special. Just simpler... Has anybody done this trip? _______________________ Towson, MD: Can cruise lines adequately accommodate food allergies? I have a 5-year-old daughter with milk and nut allergies and have had great success at DisneyWorld. Do you know if their cruise line would be more attuned to food allergies than another cruise line? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Probably though you'd really have to contact them (or ask your travel agent). I'd start with Disney since you've had good luck with them. Anybody got some advice for Towson? _______________________ Santa Rosa, CA: Hi Carolyn! I'm a first-time "Cruiser Wannabe". I'm a single woman over 40 and would enjoy going on a cruise. Are there cruises which offer something for singles who want to meet people, yet are not a meat-market atmosphere? Are there "theme" oriented cruises which are sponsored by say, the Sierra Club? Thanks for answering this email. All the best! Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Santa Rosa, thanks for writing! Of all the cruises I've taken I've probably taken 90 percent by myself. And except for the first one (got a pass from a crew member but I handled it) I have NEVER had a problem. The nice thing about cruising is how easy it is to meet other people...on shore excursions, at dinner, at onboard activities, and such. I'd probably suggest you check out a line like Celebrity for a first time...it's definitely not a meat market...Princess (not a Grand class ship but a smaller one) would also be a good choice. There are theme cruises...it's impossible to keep track but if you are a member of an organization, check with them. We're going to be posting a new story on how to travel solo - it d--als with avoiding the dreaded supplement, meeting folks, choosing the right ship, etc... It'll launch in August...so check back. _______________________ York, PA: I would like to book a cruise for October/November on Royal Caribbean's Navigator. I checked with 3 different travel agents and they have all said it already booked up except for the suites. How can I get a "good" deal and still cruise in the fall? Are any last minute deals available to "fill the ship" like within a two week period from now? Carolyn Spencer Brown: York, I asked Melissa, Cruise Critic's associate editor (and bargains guru) to handle the answer to your question. Here's what she says: "York, sorry to hear you are having trouble booking a fall cruise! Rest assured, you can find a good deal - --specially if you are willing to be flexible with your travel plans and dates. Even if Navigator of the Seas is booked up, there are similar ships sailing similar itineraries you may want to consider. For example, Royal Caribbean's Radiance of the Seas is sailing a seven-night Eastern Caribbean itinerary from Miami on November 7, starting from $669 (according to Royal Caribbean's Web site). If you are willing to pack your bags at a moment's notice (and it sounds like you are) be sure to sign up for Cruise Critic's Last Minute Cruise Sails newsletter, which features great rates on cruises departing within the next 60 days. One of this week's deals is actually a seven-night Western Caribbean from Miami onboard none other than Navigator of the Seas - ba--cony cabins start from $899." I think (this is Carolyn again) I addressed the last minute question earlier...as I said, you can get good deals, still, but may not have much choice in cabin category. Good luck! _______________________ Mountainside, NJ: I'd like to take a cruise to Antarctica. Which ship has the most landing on the White Continent with Zodiac's? And ratings of the two ships: The Marco Polo and Discovery? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Mountainside, I haven't sailed on Marco Polo. But I do know that Discovery, the only ship in the Discovery Cruise Line's fleet, uses Zodiac-like boats to land on the "white continent". That cruise line, by the way, was founded by the guy who also founded Orient Lines - under which sails Marco Polo (that line is now owned by NCL, by the way). _______________________ Omaha, NE: My wife's children from her previous marriage are 14 years old. We have had no correspondence with the father in 10+ years. Are we able to take them on a cruise or not without his consent? Then can you recommend a cruise suited to 14 year-olds? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Can't answer that one, Omaha, sorry. I know that you could not probably have them fly out of the country without permission -- written -- from the father. I'd suggest you consult a lawyer...tough one.... _______________________ Amelia Island, FL: We want to cruise the Greek Isles next Spring. Should we book now for the best deals or wait awhile? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Hi, Amelia Island. I'd start shopping around. Even though last-minute bargains are a great way to save money on airfare and hotel stays, when you're cursing that far from home you have to take airfares and hotels into consideration, too. We did a check, quickly, and it looks like per diems on lines ranging from Holland America - Celebrity are about $140 - $180 per person per day for inside cabins. The other thing worth noting: April is more expensive in the Eastern Med simply because there aren't as many ships there as in May (they're still crossing the Atlantic from their Caribbean winters). So there's less availability to start with. You might also check out Costa...it is one of the few to offer year-round trips (or almost year-round) to the Eastern Med. _______________________ Norcross, GA: My sisters and I are taking our first cruise in September. We are all over 55, usually stay at Holiday Inn-type hotels. We have booked on the Sensation, Carnival Lines. After doing more research for land tours, I am not sure this is the right cruise for us. It seems like a very young crowd sails on Carnival. Do you see any problems? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Would you believe, Norcross, that Carnival is the "preferred" line for AARP (American Association of Retired Persons)? That's pretty surprising, eh? Which goes to say -- you'd like Carnival...especially their newer ships, especially those in the Carnival Spirit class, like Pride, Miracle, Spirit. Still have all the effervescence of Carnival...but a bit more upscale than it used to be. The youngest crowds tend to sail on cruise lines' short itineraries (three four and five day)...go for longer ones, too. _______________________ Denver, CO: A tip for the single cruise - Many of the lines have "Gentlemen Hosts." They provide dancing partners for the single women and are very popular. If I were to take a cruise alone (without my husband) I'd definitely look for one that offers the Gentlemen Hosts. Carolyn Spencer Brown: That they do...and the hosts made the evenings pass a bit more pleasantly on a transatlantic sailing on Holland America's Maasdam. HAL has them, Crystal has them, Silversea...is another. Thanks, Denver. _______________________ Toronto, Ontario: There has been a lot of talk lately in the cruise community about Norwegian's new American flagged ship, Pride of Aloha, which has recently started doing 7-day all-Hawaii cruises. Since you recently returned from cruising on this ship, could you tell us how you would rate this ship, especially in the area of service, and if you think this is going to be a viable product for NCL? Carolyn Spencer Brown: hmmm. Toronto, I just got back from the Pride of Aloha's inaugural (wrote a virtual report -- which is our way of saying a day-by-day journal -- it's on our homepage). And we're publishing a review by a different writer next week. In a nutshell, the ship is great, the ports are FABULOUS, the service needs a lot of work - --nd I think it can and is a viable product for NCL. Nobody else is doing it. I applaud them...and hope the service issue smoothes out ASAP. _______________________ Irving, TX: What are some of the biggest pitfalls new cruisers should watch for? Carolyn Spencer Brown: Okay, last question. This is a great question, Irving. The biggest pitfall a new cruiser can make is not doing their homework and choosing the wrong ship for them. It's the most complicated travel purchase imaginable-w--ich is why a good travel agent is a godsend. Not only do you have to evaluate the style of a particular cruise line but also ships can vary widely within a fleet! So, when you're considering, read reviews, ask questions, and by all means be very clear about what you are looking for.... We have first time cruisers stories and boards by the way...it's a resource, use it! _______________________ Charleston, WV: In the past, I have heard and read less than flattering comments about Carnival's cruise ships. Recently, I have heard that they have improved. Would you recommend a Carnival cruise? Thank you. Carolyn Spencer Brown: okay, sorry, one more. Yes, Carnival has greatly evolved...not so much as you wouldn't recognize it (there's still lots 'o neon and fantastical design schemes) but the food is definitely better, standard cabins of their newer ships have always been generous-for-cruise-ships, comparably speaking, and their ships are really attracting a wide variety of cruisers... So you're right on Charleston...and I'd recommend Carnival for the right type of passenger, absolutely. _______________________ Carolyn Spencer Brown: Thanks for all the great questions -- even with the help of the mighty Cruise Critic staff we couldn't get to all of them (so, very sorry if we didn't get to yours). We've had fun talking with y'all - --nd I hope we've helped! Carolyn _______________________

Matthew answered your questions Tuesday, August 31, at 1 p.m. EST. Matthew Link was destined to be a travel writer, having grown up on his father's 52-foot sailboat during his teenage years, cruising around Southeast Asia and the Pacific. He has at various times called Hong, Kong, the Philippines, Micronesia, Papua New Guinea, and New Zealand home (not to mention more hum-drum spots like San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York, and London). His last stint was on the Big Island of Hawaii for five years, where he wrote and published his own guidebooks to the islands, Rainbow Handbook Hawaii. Link has produced award-winning social documentaries which have shown in film festivals and on PBS stations, and he is also an avid kayaker, hiker, snowboarder, and skin diver. Africa is his all-time favorite travel destination, and he has visited Botswana, South Africa, Zambia, Egypt, and Ghana. _______________________ Matthew Link: Hi everyone! Thanks for your questions we'll get right to them. _______________________ Castro Valley, CA: Matthew, Trying to find a low price airfare to India. Also looking for any other way to get to India, maybe through Hong Kong? Matthew Link: The best company we've found for roundtrips to India from the U.S. is Hari World. Established over 30 years ago in Canada, this company serves the ex-pat Indian community in North America, offering them great deals that anyone else can enjoy too. Don't hold me to it, but in the past they have quoted me roughly $800 for a roundtrip from New York to Delhi. They have offices in Atlanta, Chicago, San Francisco, New York, Toronto and New Delhi, with plans to open ones in Boston, Washington, and Miami later in the year. You can contact their office in San Francisco at 510/795-5000 or go to hariworld.com. Air India (airindia.com) also offers a "Companion Free Scheme" which gets you a free coach ticket when someone flies from the U.S. to India at Executive Class level. The passengers need to fly on the outbound flight together, but can return to the States at different times. The deal is good until March 31, 2005, and certain restrictions apply. When I lived in Hong Kong in the early '90s, it was a cheap place to get onward airplane tickets throughout Asia. Now, Hong Kong is one of the most expensive cities in the world according to surveys, and I think it will be cheaper and easier for you to fly directly to India, since Air India now has flights three times a week from L.A. (which just started in June), and you fly via Frankfurt anyway. _______________________ New York, NY: When is the best time to visit China? Which cities have the best food in China? Matthew Link: China covers many different regions and ecosystems, but generally speaking has hot summers and unpleasant winters, making spring and fall the best times for traveling there. Hong Kong in the south is muggy and humid in summer, and Beijing can be freezing in winter -- but even spring and fall can be wet, so don't blame me! ;-) Although Chinese New Year is like Mardi Gras (without the nudity), this time period (usually around February) can be packed and hard to find rooms, so book early. Chinese food varies much more than what you find in North America. So it really depends on what you like. Northern Chinese cuisine tends to be more spicy, while Shanghainese food is emphasizes seafood. In my view, Hong Kong has the most developed restaurant scene in Asia, with everything from street food stalls (licensed and kept hygienic by the government), to five-star restaurants mainly found in the city's awesome hotels. It also has the most Western types of food for the unadventurous! When traveling in China, especially in rural areas, be careful of anything fried, since a lot of cooking oil in China is rancid and foreigners often get very sick. _______________________ Fort Bragg, NC: I was recently in Thailand and had a domestic beer, but I can't remember the name of it. I think it means "elephant" in Thai. Can you refresh my memory? Matthew Link: Now here's a questions right up my alley! I think the brew you mean is Beer Chang, which is brewed in Thailand under license from Carlsberg, and is their equivalent of the European Elephant Beer. It's probably the cheapest and most potent beer in Thailand -- some bars won't even serve it! There's also Super Lion (also called Leo Beer or Super Leo). It's another rather strong local brew that takes people by surprise. Super Lion was recently rebranded "Beer Thai," but it's essentially the same stuff. According to Bangkok Bob (bangkokbob.net), Super Lion is "good for cleaning paintbrushes, so don't spill it on varnished wood though, but if you can't get to sleep try a bottle of either Chang or Leo, it should put you out!" _______________________ San Francisco, CA: I am planning a visit to the Philippines with my girlfriend in January. She's of Filipino heritage but every bit as American as I am. In other words, we'll both be real tourists. I'm Caucasian and I was told that there's been a security advisory from the US State Department regarding travel to the Philippines because of the Muslim rebels in the southern part of the island. Is this advisory true? How safe or unsafe is it to visit the country? Other than Manila, we would like to spend a few days in the island of Boracay, which we have heard great things about. Matthew Link: The "Filipino Diaspora" has created whole populations of "Pinoy" who have never seen their native homeland. But when your girlfriend shows up, she will be treated like family, since the Filipinos have a very strong sense a national identity even outside of their country. Filipinos are some of the friendliest people in the world, and will give you the shirt off their backs even when living in poverty. My father has lived there for years, and my stepmother and sister-in-law are both Filipina, so don't take my biased word for it -- go to the Philippines to experience it for yourself. The Philippines is one of the cheapest countries in the world to visit. The Asian economic miracle has not floated all boats -- and the Philippines is far behind its neighbors in terms of prosperity. As for safety, yes, it is an issue in the south of the country on the island of Mindanao. To put it in context -- this region has been a hotbed of the Muslim separatist movement for a couple decades now, way before anyone heard of Al Queda. If you stay in the northern regions of the Philippines on the island of Luzon -- hundreds of miles from Mindanao -- you won't be affected at all. And to back up my point of view, according to the U.S. Department of Tourism Research: "The United States, which continues to issue adverse travel advisories to its nationals leaving for the Philippines, remains the country's number one market, with 252,612 American travelers coming in during the first semester, a 35.5 percent growth rate year on year." Manila is thriving but also hectic and dirty; best to head out of Manila to the more mellow region of Baguio in the north of Luzon, where you'll also find wonderful beaches as well. Boracay is south of Luzon in the Visaya Islands, and is truly the most scenic part of the Philippines that I've seen, full of cheap (under $50 a night) guesthouses popular with Europeans. The Philippines, a Catholic and Latin-influenced nation in the middle of Asia, on the whole is very pro-American and most everyone speaks English, which may account for the consistent popularity with American tourists. _______________________ Boston, MA: Hi Matthew, What type of clothing should I pack for a trip to Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand in December? Thanks. Matthew Link: It's always warm in Southeast Asia apart from high mountains, so leave the heavy clothing at home. Cotton and breathable fabrics are always better than synthetics -- although cotton does wrinkle a lot when traveling! December through April is roughly the dry season in that region, although it can still rain a little. December is a good time to go in terms of temperature -- cooler than in the humid summertime. Either way, wearing more clothing (shirt sleeves and long pants) is always more respectful towards the Asian culture, especially when visiting temples and rural areas. _______________________ Ann Arbor, MI: How should bartering be approached in Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia? As a white-ish male, should I expect to be taken for my money at every turn? Matthew Link: Southeast Asia is a bartering culture, and it's often expected from shopkeepers, especially in tourist areas. However, in areas filled mainly with locals, prices may not necessarily be jacked up, so it's important to ask around and find out how much things should cost from people like hotel staff and friendly locals before you dive into bargaining. It's important to have the right attitude when battering. Many Westerners approach it in a "I win you lose" manner. It's good not to ever let the shop keepers lose face. Always be friendly, smiling, mellow when battering -- never abrasive. Battering is nearly a pastime in these countries, and people almost approach it like a game to be played. So relax and enjoy it as a cultural experience. Don't feel bad about bargaining down for items that cost less at home -- being taken for a fool is never honorable. But at the same time stay sensitive to local prices. The store owner may need the two dollars a lot more than you! _______________________ Albany, NY: Hi Matthew, thanks for taking questions. I will be doing a 6-month travel stint through New Zealand/Australia and Southeast Asia starting in mid-October. What would be your top 10 do not miss list for destination cities? Thanks. Matthew Link: Since I went to high school in New Zealand (yes, I had a Kiwi accent!) and have been to Oz twice, I can help you out with the whole region. I would say Wellington is more picturesque than Auckland -- although Auckland, NZ, is bigger and brasher. But Wellington is more friendly and built around hills and a bay -- and yes, it is slightly colder. Everyone has an opinion if Melbourne or Sydney is better. I'm sorry -- I have to go with Sydney! Maybe it's all the inlets and finger of the harbor, the no-attitude manner of the people, or just the great energy of the place. Melbourne is more artsy, cutting edge, and interesting in some ways though. Hong Kong is a must -- to see how sophisticated China can be and beyond modern. Beijing is also a must if only for the great landmarks and history -- not the traffic, pollution, or ugly architecture! I'm not a huge Bangkok fan although it does have some amazing temples. I think Phnom Penh is more interesting since it is rapidly changing and not as touristy. If Nepal is going through a peaceful phase (check the State Department warnings), I love Kathmandu -- one of Asia's greatest treats, up in the pre-Himalayas and small and walkable and full or unique atmosphere. In India, my favorite state is Rajastan and my favorite place is Jaisalmer. It's way out in the desert with palaces and you can do camel safaris out in the desert. And if you can make it -- keep going to Ulan Bator in Mongolia -- I loved the Soviet feel and the remoteness! And oil-rich Brunei is fascinating if only for its special status as a tony enclave within Malaysia. Is that 10? I hope so! _______________________ Hartford, CT: I would like to visit various Asian countries: Singapore, Bangkok, Manila, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong. What would be the best approach in doing this? How long should one stay in each country? What would be 2 or 3 sites one should see in these countries/cities? Matthew Link: For any traveler seeking to cover a lot of ground in Asia, a Cathay All Asia Pass is mandatory. For $999, you can fly to 17 Asian cities over the course of 21 days, and that includes your flight from the U.S. to Hong Kong, Cathay's hub. Be sure to book the pass at cathayusa.com by signing up for the free "CyberTraveler" program, since it will cost $200 extra to purchase the pass by other means. Then you need your travel agent to actually book the flights for you -- Cathay insists. (The pass has been around for a long time, so most agents are familiar with it, and Cathay's web site is loaded with a ton of info on routes and add-on cities.) And if you are over 55, that brings the air pass down by $100. The $999 pass price is good from August 17 through December 1, 2004 -- but if you want to travel during the high summer season time period, the price goes up by $300. Don't forget to budget for airport taxes too -- they fluctuate, but usually hover between $10 to $30 per passenger depending on the country. Cathay Pacific only flies out of Los Angeles, San Francisco, Vancouver, and New York -- the latter probably being your preference. _______________________ Matthew Link: Thanks for your questions! It's been fun. Be sure to check out Budget Travel for articles on the Philippines and Asia. Next week, our live chat is about Hong Kong - so be sure to come back then. _______________________

There's just nothing in the world like my hometown - the architecture, the colorful street life, the even more colorful nightlife, the rainbow of eccentric and fairly friendly inhabitants, and better dining than at any time in its history (no cracks, please). Sadly, Cool Britannia has earned another nickname courtesy of our local tabloids: "Rip-off Britain." But the truth is that especially away from the touristy downtown areas, London doesn't have to cost an arm and a leg. If you aren't afraid to take the bus, the train, the tube, or to arm yourself with a street map and walk, you can dig up some brilliant bargains in exciting places. (To call London from the United States, first dial 011-44-20. From within the U.K., first dial 020 for London; for other cities, dial 0 before the city code.) Notes from the Underground No question, the best way to get around is the weekly Travelcard (you'll need a passport photo to get one), which covers the Underground (the world's most extensive subway system), those red double-decker buses, and British Rail trains - especially good for navigating the further reaches of town. If you plan to explore only central London, buy a Zone One unlimited travel pass for £15.30 ($22.25); other passes cover up to six zones (£35.40/$51.50), but four will get you pretty much anywhere you'd want to go except Heathrow. The cards are available at all train and tube stations and tourist offices. There's also a transport advice line (7222-1234) to help you get exactly where you want to go. Tips on the Thames Get started even before you leave the States, by visiting the vast londontown.com (which also has special offers on lodging and events) or calling the British Tourist Authority at 877/899-8931 for a free info pack; ask for the brochures Where to Stay on a Budget 2001 and the London Planner. Once over here, there's lots of useful help at the London Tourist Board's main information center at Victoria train station (whose tube station has the same name) and the Britain Visitor Centre at 1 Regent Street: mostly leaflets, booking services for tours and bus trips, and accommodation services. The weekly Time Out (£1.95/$2.85) still runs the top listings guide, but several newspapers now publish their own; the best is "Hot Tickets," free with the Evening Standard (35p/50cents) on Thursdays. The free morning newspaper Metro (available at tube stations) also has listings for that day. Cafe society Remember the scruffy local eatery that features prominently on the Brit soap EastEnders? (You can frequently find the series stateside on public TV.) Colloquially known as "caffs," these cafes are the English version of diners - a real blue-collar experience, with simple food and sometimes gruff service. Here, they close at 6 p.m. and are beloved by construction workers and celebs alike. An all-day breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausage, beans, and toast hovers around the £3 ($4.35) mark; make sure you try some "bubble and squeak" (fried mashed potatoes and cabbage, very tasty local delicacy) with your brekkie. I recommend Mike's Cafe (12 Blenheim Cres., Notting Hill, W11; tube: Notting Hill or Ladbroke Grove), Borough Cafe (11 Park St., around the corner from Borough Market, SE1; tube/train: London Bridge), Dishes Cafe (23 Cromwell Rd., near the Natural History Museum, SW7; tube/train: South Kensington), and Mario's Cafe (6 Kelly St., near Camden Market, NW1; tube: Kentish Town/Camden). Dorm-a-rama Even cheaper lodging options? Try university residence halls, which offer a bed and a full English breakfast in clean, simple twins with a washbasin in the room, and shared bath, kitchen, and TV facilities during vacation periods (generally mid-April and mid-June through September) in very central locations. Best picks: the beautiful Wellington Hall (71 Vincent Sq., SW1; 7834-4740, tube: Victoria) with twin rooms at £42 ($61), breakfast included; Great Dover Apartments (165 Great Dover St., SE1; 7407-0068, tube: Borough) has twin rooms with private bath (or, as the English refer to it, "en suite") at £47 ($68). Both of the above are available through King's Conference and Vacation Bureau (7848-1700), vac.bureau@kcl.ac.uk. Wigram House (84-99 Ashley Gardens, SW1, 7911-5796, comserv@westminster.ac.uk; tube/train: Victoria), with twins from £48 ($70.50), about 20 percent more for ages 27 and over. Year-round, the London Hostels Association (7828-3263) has a roster of ten centrally located, pleasantly sedate - i.e. not full of boozy Aussies - hostels with weekly double rates from o88 ($128) per person (usually breakfast and dinner included). The rock-bottom option is Tent City Acton (Old Oak Common Ln., W3, 8376-3432, tentcity@btinternet.com, home.fastnet.co.uk/iandavey; tube: East Acton), open June to September, with beds in big dorm-style tents from o6 per person ($8.75). To B&B or not to B&B Pricewise, London's a tough hotel town, especially if you're looking for anything central. You could stay in the local branch of the Travel Inn chain (London County Hall, Belvedere Rd., SE1, in the shadow of the Houses of Parliament, 7902-1600; tube: Waterloo), where two adults and two kids will pay £69.95 ($103) a night. But bed-and-breakfasts offer charm as well as savings. A top central choice is 78 Albert Street in hip, young Camden, NW1 (7387-6813, fax 7387-1704, peterbelldesign@pobox.com; tube: Camden), with doubles from £80 ($118). But the Underground makes it easy to hang your derby just outside overpriced central London. An award-winning, typically English B&B (run by a Frenchman!) is Highfield Guest House (12 Dowanhill Rd., SE6, 8698-8038, highfieldbb.co.uk), whose doubles start at £47 ($68) a night; take the BritRail train from Charing Cross station to Hither Green. In the North: Kandara Guesthouse (68 Ockendon Rd., N1, 7226-5721, kandara.co.uk), also with doubles from £49 ($70) and reachable via tube (Angel or Highbury & Islington) or the 73 or 38 bus into the West End. In the West, Kensington Guest House (72 Holland Park Ave., W11, 7460-7080, hotelondon.co.uk; tube: Holland Park) has doubles from £60 ($85), in-room cooking facilities, and a lovely setting near Notting Hill; bus 94 goes straight to the West End. Frugal fashion In London's markets, rummage and people-watch where well-known designers get their inspiration (and find cafes and stalls where you can chow down for a couple of pounds). Best for fashion, jewelry, and antiques are Camden on weekends (tube: Camden) and Portobello Road on Saturdays (tube: Notting Hill Gate or Ladbroke Grove). At the Sunday-morning madness of Brick Lane in E1 (tube: Liverpool St., then bus 8 towards Shoreditch), anything and everything's sold on a street lined with cheap Indian restaurants and the legendary Beigel Bake (159 Brick Lane, E1, 7729-0616), where a smoked-salmon-and-cream-cheese bagel is yours for 95 pence ($1.40). A short walk away is the Columbia Road flower market; grab a coffee and people-watch. For a reggae-flavored scene, cheap Afro-Caribbean eats, and fabrics, check out Brixton Market daily except Sunday on Electric Avenue (tube: Brixton). Picnic picks You're never far from a green space in London, so pick up a picnic from a supermarket like Tesco (18 Warwick Way, Victoria, SW1; 224 Portobello Rd., Notting Hill, W11; 22 Bedford St., Covent Garden, WC2); Sainsbury's (17 Camden Rd., Camden, NW1; 15 Tottenham Court Rd., West End, W1; 31 Liverpool Rd., Islington, N1; 158 Cromwell Rd., South Kensington, SW7); or Safeway (35 Kings Rd., Chelsea, SW3; 159 Edgeware Rd., W2; 150 Kensington High St., Kensington, W8). Expect to pay about 40p for a small baguette; at the deli counter it'll cost £2 for a tasty piece of cheese, o1 for a small tub of olives, £1.50 for five slices of good ham, and 40p per piece for spicy finger food. Buy a decent bottle of wine for £3.99 ($6) from Oddbins, the ubiquitous vintners' chain, and head off. My alfresco favorites: classic Regent's Park (tube: Regent's Park); wild and rugged Richmond Park (tube: Richmond); and St. James Park, an oasis in the shadow of Buckingham Palace, with free concerts in the summer (tube: St James's Park). Double-decker dandies For a fare of £1 ($1.45) or included on the Travelcard, public bus 11 does a grand tour from the Kings Road past Buckingham Palace, the Houses of Parliament, and Big Ben on to St. Paul's Cathedral and the City (London's Wall Street). Number 8 goes down Piccadilly and through the splendor of Mayfair to the City and on to the very different East End; hop off for a curry in one of the always cheap Indian eateries on Brick Lane. Highbrow freebies The events section of Time Out (see above) doles out info on free readings in pubs and bookshops, along with lunchtime concerts in churches. Most major museums and art galleries are also free; central London's finest are the National Gallery (Trafalgar Sq., WC2, 7747-2885; tube: Leicester Square, Charing Cross); the National Portrait Gallery (St. Martin's Pl., WC2, 7306-0055, tube: Leicester Square, Charing Cross); the British Museum (Great Russell St., WC1, 7323-8000; tube: Tottenham Court Rd.); the Tate Britain (Millbank, SW1, 7887-8000; tube: Pimlico); the exciting new Tate Modern (Bankside, SE1, 7887-8008; tube: Southwark, Blackfriars); and the Natural History Museum (Cromwell Rd., SW7, 7942-5000, tube: South Kensington), free after 4:30 p.m. (and possibly offering free admission this spring). Buy a London Pass for free entrance to over 60 attractions: art galleries, museums, river cruises, cycle tours, palaces, zoos, and historic buildings (even go-karting!), as well as unlimited travel. Cost: £22 ($32) daily, £79 ($112) weekly-never buy a Travelcard if you plan on getting a weekly London Pass! (info: 870/242-9988, londonpass.com). The GoSee card (no longer sold after March 31) gives unlimited access to 17 major museums and galleries for o16 ($23) for three days, o26 ($38) for a week (7923-0807 or 800/869-8184 from the U.S., londongo see.com). Mansions for misers A visit to Buckingham Palace (tel. 7839-1377) is a stiff o11 ($16) and Hampton Court (tel. 8781-9500) is £10.50 ($15.50), but smaller, just-as-magnificent palaces and stately homes are much more reasonable. The medieval and art deco Eltham Palace (Courtyard, SE9, 8294-2548, tube: Eltham) is £6 ($8.75); the eighteenth-century Osterley Park House (Jersey Rd., Isleworth, 8232-5050; tube: Osterley) costs £4.30 ($6.50), £1 off with a Travelcard; another eighteenth-century villa, Kenwood House (Hampstead Ln., NW3, 8348-1286, tube: Hampstead, or bus 210 from Golders Green or Archway) is free. Romantic poet John Keats' home (Wentworth Place, Keats Grove, NW3, 7435-2062, tube: Hampstead) costs £3 ($4.50) and offers special readings on Wednesday evenings (closed for renovation until May 1, 2001); Leighton House, the opulent nineteenth-century home of the Victorian artist Lord Leighton (12 Holland Park Rd., W14, 7602-3316, tube: High St. Kensington or buses 9 or 10). Won't you take me to funky town Out-of-towners tend to be wary of what's outside central London (much as New York visitors quail at the thought of venturing outside Manhattan). But what they find, very often, are lovely neighborhoods, a more stately pace, and low prices. One example of a still-untouristed region: Islington (tube: Angel), with its copious and elegant Georgian and Victorian architecture, as well as an antiques market at Camden Passage that hums on Wednesdays and Saturdays. My local restaurant pick: the vibrant Afghan Kitchen (35 Islington Green, 7359-8019), where a full dinner will set you back around £7 ($10.25). For a semi-rural excursion, riverside Richmond in Surrey (the tube or train station: Richmond) has Richmond Park, the hunting ground of Henry VIII (still teeming with deer) and the magnificent Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew (Kew Rd., Kew, Surrey, 8940-1171, admission: £5 ($7.50); tube: Kew Gardens). Prime spot for a lunchtime snack is the riverside pub the White Cross (Water Ln., 8940-6844), where the chef is terrific-and the sausage and mash (as we call mashed potatoes) costs £5.50 ($8), a Sunday roast beef plate £6.50 ($9.50). A few other areas worthy of an excursion: Hampstead, Camden, Battersea, Clapham, Hoxton, and Shoreditch. Pub-a-dub-dub London's old Victorian pubs may be regal watering holes, but these days they're often notoriously overpriced. For value (bitter for as little as £1.64/$2.40, for example), the name to look for on signs is Samuel Smiths Brewery; their Princess Louise (208 High Holborn, WC1, 7405-8816, tube: Holborn) in the West End, near the British Museum, is all engraved mirrors and gilt ceilings. "Gastropubs" (those serving full meals) also tend to be pricey, but there are a few exceptions, such as the Dartmouth Arms (35 York Rise, NW5, 7485-3267; tube: Tufnell Park), whose daytime menu serves up robust main courses around the o6 to o8 ($8.75-$11.50) mark. Staged cheapies See all those reduced and half-price theater tickets advertised downtown? Stay away! Very rarely are they bona-fide bargains. You'll only get genuine reductions by visiting the booth on the south side of Leicester Square (Mon. to Sat. noon-6:30 p.m., Sunday noon-3 p.m.; tube: Leicester Square) and checking out the same-day bargains. The Royal Opera House (Covent Garden, Bow St., WC2, 7304-4000, fax: 7212-9460; tube: Covent Garden), where seats are often in excess of £100, has free lunchtime concerts in the Vilar Floral Hall. A limited number of seats are available for the Royal Opera and Royal Ballet (both based at the Opera House) on the day of performance for £4 ($5) and £3 ($4.50) respectively; arrive at least one hour before the box office opens at 10 a.m. to buy tickets. Hey, make me over Go home with a hot British look by asking for a makeover at the cosmetic counters of one of the city's larger department stores like Debenhams, Selfridges, or House of Fraser on Oxford Street (tube: Bond St., Oxford Circus), Barkers on High Street Kensington (tube of same name), and Dickens and Jones on Regent Street (tube: Oxford Circus). It won't cost you a penny and you are under no obligation to buy afterwards (if you get a hard sell, just say you want to "live" with the look for a couple of hours!). For younger looks, try the new cosmetics concessions in glamorous Harvey Nichols (Knightsbridge, SW1; tube: Knightsbridge); names to look for are Stila, M.A.C., Chantecaille, Trish McEvoy, and Shu Uemura. Get a haircut for £16.50 ($24) or color for £17.50 ($25.75) from students at Vidal Sassoon's salons (a fifth of the normal price for coloring, less than half the regular price of a cut) by calling 7318-5205. (Metro and other papers also run vouchers for even greater discounts.) Walk this way At the tourist office, pick up the map to the "London Silver Jubilee Walkway," a 12-mile circular walk marked by 400 silver discs set in the sidewalk and taking in great local views and landmarks. Alternatively, consult the "Around Town" section of Time Out for info on the many guided walks available, and choose your theme, be it spooky, regal, or downright titillating. The best guides work for Original London Walks (7624-3978, walks.com, charging £5 ($7.25) for two hours. Fishin' & chippin', mate At its best, Britain's national dish can be a revelation (though the English lament that their "chip shops" aren't what they used to be). Top-notch chippies charging £4 to £6 ($5.75 to $9) include: Brady's (513 Old York Rd., SW18; train: Wandsworth Town or buses 28 and 44); Golden Hind (73 Marylebone Ln., W1; tube: Baker St. or Bond St.); Fryer's Delight (19 Theobald's Rd., WC1; tube: Chancery Lane, Holborn); Fish Central (149-151 Central St., EC1; tube: Angel, Barbican); and Costas Fish Restaurant (18 Hillgate St., W8; tube: Notting Hill). Tubing it into town If you land at Heathrow Airport, buy a Travelcard (see above) at the airport's tube (Underground) station and get on the dark blue Piccadilly Line, which cuts through town from west to east; a single ride from airport to city center costs £3.50 ($5). Or pick up the A2 bus for £7 ($10.25) each way, £10 ($14.75) round-trip from bus stops outside all four Heathrow terminals (they are well-signposted); it will take you west through town to Kings Cross with regular stops at downtown points such as Kensington, Marble Arch, and Baker St. The costher but more elegant Heathrow Express train (heathrowexpress.co.uk) zips fast and direct from Terminals 2 and 4; follow Heathrow Express signs in all terminals, to Paddington Station in 15 minutes for £12 ($17.50) each way - which is still cheaper than a o40/$59 taxi, as well as gratifyingly short after an all-night flight in from the colonies; at Paddington, taxi dispatchers can often match you up with passengers going in the same direction, saving money on cab fare. Relatively few U.S. flights land at London's other airports; the cheapest way into town from the next-most popular, Gatwick, is the hourly Flightline bus service to Victoria Station for £11 ($16) round-trip. Dinner for a tenner (or less) Some of the cheapest food in town is ethnic. Centrale (16 Moor St., W1, tube: Leicester Square or Tottenham Court Rd.) and Pollo (20 Old Compton St., W1, tube: Leicester Square) in downtown Soho have Italian main courses for around £5 ($7.50) a head, as do the ubiquitous chains, Bella Pasta, and Spaghetti House. Topkapi (25 Marylebone High St., W1; tube: Baker St., Bond St.) and Sofra (1 St. Christopher St., W1; tube: Bond St.) do tasty Turkish fare starting at £7. Moroccan Tagine (95 Golbourne Rd., W10, tube: Ladbroke Grove) features Moroccan entrees for under £7 ($10). Bhelpoori House (93 Chapel Market, N1, 7833-1167; tube: Angel) is London's cheapest all-you-can-eat Indian spot at £3.50 ($5) per person. Sushi-Hiro (1 Station Parade, Uxbridge Rd., W5, tube: Ealing Common) has some of the best sushi in town, with set lunches that start at £5 ($7.50). For more restaurant details and recommendations, call Restaurant Services (8888-8080), which will also book for you. You might also check out the London dining article in BT's September/October 2000 issue. A jolly good clubbing Nightclubs can be madly expensive, but early in the week prices drop; for example, the jazzy beats and funky hip-hop of Bar Rumba's "This!" on Monday nights costs £4 ($5.80; 36 Shaftesbury Ave., W1, 7287-2715; tube: Piccadilly Circus). For a trendy crowd jumping to barroom favorites (from rock and roll to current chart-toppers Morcheeba) go for "8 Ball" at The Elbow Room on Tuesday nights, free before 10 p.m., o1 after (89-91 Chapel Market, NW1, 7278-3244; tube: Angel). The Dogstar buzzes every night of the week and is always free (389 Coldharbour Ln., SW9, 7733 7515; tube: Brixton), as is the funky Herbal (12/14 Kingsland Rd., Shoreditch, E2, 7613-4462; tube: Old St. (Take the Hoxton Square exit and walk to the end of Old St.) Lots of smaller pub venues have up to four good bands in a night, the beer is cheap, and entrance is between £3 and £5 ($4.35-$7.25). Who knows-you may catch the next Morcheeba! The best venues for rock are: Archway Tavern (often free entrance before 10 p.m., Archway Roundabout, N19, 7272-2840; tube: Archway); Water Rats (328 Gray's Inn Rd., WC1, 7436-7211; tube: Kings Cross); Lil' Backyard Club at Fitz & Firkin (240 Great Portland St., W1, 7387-0221; tube: Great Portland St.); The Monarch (49 Chalk Farm Rd., NW1, 7916-1049; tube: Chalk Farm); and Dublin Castle (94 Parkway, NW1, 8806-2668; tube: Camden). By the beautiful sea Possibly the world's first seaside resort, Brighton's pebbly beaches have been popular since 1750 and have recently once again become the favored weekend haunt of tout London. It's the perfect day trip: small, welcoming, with funky street life and gorgeous architecture. The Royal Pavilion (4-5 Pavilion Buildings, Brighton, tel. 1273/290-900), George V's impossibly lavish Oriental-style former palace, is legitimately one of Britain's most impressive attractions; entrance costs £4.90 ($7.25), but it is worth paying an extra £1.25 ($1.80) for the guided tours at 11.30 a.m. and 2.30 p.m. The rest of your day trip need cost nothing; amble around the town's pretty, narrow streets, on the beach, and along Brighton Pier. You can also hire a deck chair (£1 or so) and park easy with a cone of chips from a beachside stall. Numerous restaurants and cafes extend great lunchtime deals; you're guaranteed a blowout with the all-you-can-eat buffet, £4.95 ($7.25) at Bombay Aloo (39 Ship St., Brighton, 1273/776-038). Buses are the cheapest way to make the trip, leaving hourly from Victoria Coach Station (a short walk from the train station). Call National Express Coaches (tel. 8705/808-080 or gobycoach.com) or book from home at 540/298-1395 or online at britbus.com (for a 10 percent discount off the usual £12.50, or $18.50). Trains leave Victoria rail station twice hourly and cost £13.70 ($20.25); call 345/484-950. Visit visit brighton.com or call the tourist office at 906/711-2255 from the U.K. only.

Everybody knows about the legendary charms of Provence. The skies are blue beyond compare, and the air is filled with the scent of thyme. Everybody knows that the markets are divine--this is France, after all. Everybody knows that staying there costs a fortune. Or does it? Not necessarily. Read on! Murs-en-Provence: Le Mas du Loriot Chirping cicadas and rustling leaves are the only ambient noises at this quiet haven in the hills near Gordes. Each room has a private terrace with a magnificent view: a small lavender field, and far behind it the mighty massif of the Luberon. An alluring pool is tucked among the trees. The graceful room decor includes tile floors, white walls, a painting or two, and rich fabrics on the beds and windows; bathrooms are stocked with goodies from Yves Rocher. Rooms are accessible from the outside, so mingling with your neighbors is strictly voluntary. The only viewless room goes for $56, while others start at $108. The restaurant serves dinner on weekdays; half-board is strongly encouraged, though not obligatory--and probably not a bad idea, considering how hard it might be to find the energy necessary to get up from your deck chair and drive into town. Doubles $56-$143; eight rooms, one wheelchair accessible. Route de Joucas, 011-33/4-90-72-62-62, fax 011-33/4-90-72-62-54, masduloriot.com. Vers-Pont-du-Gard: La Begude Saint-Pierre American-style amenities are rare in French hotels, but this country inn does what it can: Rooms are spacious, beds are large (two small twins clamped together), bathrooms are stocked with toiletries, and there's a sauna, pool, and small gym room. And then there's the French part: glorious countryside views, 17th-century stone buildings, and a gourmet restaurant (prix fixe dinner $35-$58). The inside of this old postal-relay inn has been almost entirely reconstructed to create no-nonsense modern, air-conditioned rooms with faux antiques and Provençal bedspreads. The 34 acres of grounds stretch to the Gardon River, which runs under the neighboring Pont-du-Gard, an amazing chunk of intact Roman aqueduct. The hotel is on a small country highway, so a few rooms get some road noise during the daytime (but the three that face the road are quite large and in the lowest price category). Doubles $83-$143; 20 rooms, three suites. D 981 Les Coudoulieres, 011-33/4-66-63-63-63, fax 011-33/4-66-22-73-73, hotel-saintpierre.fr. Uzes: Hotel du General d'Entraigues Centuries old and completely restored, Uzes is a jewel of a town with one of the best open-air markets in all of Provence. Lodgings are scarce, but fortunately there is this classy hotel, ensconced in a series of 15th- and 18th-century private houses just in front of St. Theodorit Cathedral and the Tour Fenestrelle. Rates vary widely, but on the low end are decent-size rooms with exposed beams, nice antiques, and pretty views of interior patios and surrounding monuments. (The more expensive rooms are gigantic, with painted 17th-century beamed ceilings and prsate balconies.) Most rooms are air-conditioned, and there's a gorgeous, though shallow, rooftop pool with a patio bar and views of the cathedral. Common areas like the downstairs lounge are hip yet cozy; be sure to check out the restaurant's view of the underside of the pool. Doubles $65-$178; 36 rooms, two suites, elevator. 8 rue de la Calade, Place de l'Eveche, 011-33/4-66-22-32-68, fax 011-33/4-66-22-57-01, hoteldentraigues.com. Graveson: Le Cadran Solaire Once a postal-relay inn, this old stone building in the residential part of a very small town has thick walls, a trellised garden, and a tranquil atmosphere (reinforced by the absence of TVs in the rooms). With high-beamed ceilings and garden views, the rooms are luminous; modern, ornate iron bedsteads, period reproduction furniture, and muted colors complete the decor. The friendly owners try to make it feel like a private home, and by and large they succeed. Though not neighboring any big tourist sites, Graveson is within a half-hour drive of most Provençal highlights, and the town itself has a relaxed southern charm--huge plane trees shade a tiny canal that cuts across the main square. Doubles $69-$90; 12 rooms. 5 rue de Cabaret Neuf, 011-33/4-90-95-71-79, fax 011-33/4-90-90-55-04, hotel-en-provence.com. Arles: Hotel de l'Amphitheatre Style, comfort, and great prices combine to make these chic lodgings--unrelated to the hotel of the same name in Nîmes--an excellent deal. New owners have almost completely renovated, exposing amazing 17th-century wood-beam ceilings. Wall colors tend toward the dark, rich side, but they're generally balanced with bright fabrics, light floor tiles, and modern furniture that borrows from antique styles. The cheapest rooms, in the unrenovated part of the hotel, are in need of an overhaul; it's definitely worth paying the extra $12 for a "comfort" double on the spiffed-up side. The Belvedere ($161), which has a 360-degree view of the rooftops of Arles, may be worth a splurge. All rooms are air-conditioned, there's Internet access in the lobby and a massage therapist on call, and the cool art books and toiletries in the rooms are for sale in the hotel boutique. Doubles $58-$106; 28 rooms, one wheelchair-accessible, one suite. 5-7 rue Diderot, 011-33/4-90-96-10-30, fax 011-33/4-90-93-98-69, hotelamphitheatre.fr. Nîmes: Hotel de l'Amphitheatre A block away from Nîmes' magnificent Roman mini-Colosseum, this 18th-century town house has been lovingly converted into a remarkably reasonable, family-run hotel. The management may come off as a little brisk, but it's clear they're passionate about their work. Rooms are furnished with antiques and modern pieces; tweedy wallpaper and area rugs add a feeling of warmth, and high ceilings offset the slightly pinched dimensions. If size matters, ask for one of the three larger rooms facing the pretty Place du Marche or a grande with two double beds (which costs more). The top floor is air-conditioned. And because the entire old center of Nîmes is a pedestrian zone, even rooms facing the tiny street are quiet. Doubles $56-$68; 15 rooms. 4 rue des Arenes, 011-33/4-66-67-28-51, fax 011-33/4-66-67-07-79, http://perso.wanadoo.fr/hotel-amphitheatre. Villeneuve-lez-Avignon: Hotel de l'Atelier Spare yourself the agony of trying to find high-season lodgings in Avignon--there's a great little hotel across the river in Villeneuve, just a five-minute bus ride from the City of Popes. Rooms are all different shapes and sizes--the building was built in the 16th century as a silk workshop--and there are exposed beams and stone walls, as well as painted niches, art deco dressers, Chinese end tables, and antique photography. A few rooms look a bit like they're from a 1940s movie set. The garden terrace is livened up with modern sculptures; hallways showcase paintings by local artists. The new owners are redoing a couple of rooms in Provençal style--let's hope their taste is as refined as their predecessors'. Doubles $67-$108; 23 rooms. 5 rue de la Foire, 011-33/4-90-25-01-84, fax 011-33/4-90-25-80-06, hoteldelatelier.com. St-Remy-de-Provence: L'Hotel Sous les Figuiers Its name means "hotel under the fig trees," and sure enough, Sous les Figuiers boasts 10 rooms that each have a terrace and a small private yard with a fig tree that you can harvest at will (the two that don't have trees cost at least $24 less). Somewhere between a B&B and a hotel, this low-key lodging is in a residential area just a couple of minutes from the center of town. Recently reopened (and completely renovated) after a change in ownership, the place is spic-and-span, from the lushly painted walls to the earth-tone tiles in the bathrooms. The modern rooms are softened with quilted bedcovers and restored antiques. If you like the faux finish on the armoire, learn how to do it yourself at a workshop in the art studio. The friendly owner lives on the premises and encourages guests to get to know each other over a game of chess or an evening aperitif, but you can also just lounge by the pool on your own or stretch out under your fig tree and take a nap. Doubles $77-$125; 12 rooms. 3 avenue Taillandier, 011-33/4-32-60-15-40, fax 011-33/4-32-60-15-39, hotel-charme-provence.com Le barroux: Les Geraniums The rooms may not be anything special, but the hotel is on the edge of a rocky bluff, and the views are spectacular--across the Plain of the Comtat, from the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains to the town of Carpentras. In the main building, windows look out on to mountains, olive orchards, and vineyards; for the head-on view of the plain, ask for a room in the annex. The quarters are relatively spacious, but bathrooms are closet-size. Half-board (breakfast and dinner) is a smart idea, since the hotel restaurant and its geranium-bedecked terrace serve the only real food in town. The tiny village of Le Barroux, site of a 12th-century castle, provides a good base for hikers and nature lovers who want to make the most of the Dentelles and nearby Mont Ventoux. Doubles $54-$60; 22 rooms. Place de la Croix, 011-33/4-90-62-41-08, fax 011-33/4-90-62-56-48, http://www.hotel-lesgeraniums.com. Maussane-les-Alpilles: Hostellerie l'Oustaloun Though just a few miles away from the majestic and tourist-heavy fortress town of Les Baux, Maussane retains its sleepy southern atmosphere, complete with a butcher, a baker, and a smoky cafe. It's one of the rare villages in the Alpilles mountains not completely bought out by rich foreigners trying to relive Peter Mayles' A Year in Provence. The hotel's spacious rooms are simple but nicely decorated with family antiques and Provençal fabrics, and an effort has been made to preserve architectural details left from the building's previous incarnation as a 16th-century abbey. (There are a lot of stairs; be prepared to climb.) In summer, the restaurant spills out onto the church square, where you can eat eggplant caviar with red pepper coulis under the century-old plane trees. Doubles $57-$68; nine rooms. Place de l'Eglise, 011-33/4-90-54-32-19, fax 011-33/4-90-54-45-57, loustaloun.com. Aix-en-Provence: Hotel Cardinal In the upscale tourist hub of Aix-en-Provence, lodgings tend to be extremely expensive or bare-bones backpacker hangouts. Hotel Cardinal is a rare compromise, with affordable rooms in a beautiful neighborhood just a short walk from the bustling esplanade of the Cours Mirabeau. Don't be put off by the shabby lobby--the 18th-century building is being slowly renovated, and the ebullient owner made the guest rooms her first priority. Most have had a makeover, with reproduction period fabrics and furniture as well as sparkling bathrooms and new mattresses, but the hallways and common areas have a long way to go. The real deals are the suites in the nearby annex. Some are still a little dingy, but they're quite large, with eat-in kitchens--a couple have private gardens--and they cost only $92. Doubles $77; 23 rooms, six suites, elevator in the main building. 24 rue Cardinale, 011-33/4-42-38-32-30, fax 011-33/4-42-26-39-05, hotel-cardinal-aix.com. Saignon: Auberge du Presbytere The old stone presbytery dominates the tiny main square of Saignon, a beautiful eagle's nest of a village that peers down on a wide valley and the town of Apt. The Auberge has been in the same hands for a long time--a long-term American expat--as you can tell from the lived-in, un-hotel-like ambience. Rooms are tastefully decorated with a variety of rattan armchairs, throw rugs, local antiques, and interesting paintings by the owner's wife. Two rooms have incredible views, one with a 270-degree panorama of the Luberon massif with the 12th-century village church in the foreground. The smaller rooms are cheaper; the least expensive is cute but tiny with a bathroom in the hall. The restaurant, which has a terrace, is a good bet--it's a long haul downhill to find alternatives. Doubles $62-$137; 12 rooms. Place de la Fontaine, 011-33/4-90-74-11-50, fax 011-33/4-90-04-68-51, auberge-presbytere.com.