Live Talk Transcript: Thailand

June 4, 2005
Reid Bramblett and Jason Cochran answered your questions about Thailand

Reid Bramblett and Jason Cochran answered your questions about traveling to Thailand Tuesday, July 6, at noon EST.

Reid Bramblett holds the somewhat dubious distinction of having authored both The Complete Idiot's Travel Guide to Europe and Europe for Dummies. His love affair with Europe began at age 11 when his family moved to Rome and proceeded to spend much of the next two years exploring Europe in a hippie-orange VW campervan. Reid experienced a budget continent of campgrounds and picnics with the locals, though mostly he remembers having to sleep in the VW's moldy pop-top. After a brief stint as an editorial assistant at a travel publisher, began writing European guidebooks for Frommer's, Dorling Kindersley's Eyewitness, Idiot's, and For Dummies. He joined the Budget Travel editorial staff in 2002. He champions such underdog Irish causes as real ales, traditional Celtic music, Irish cheeses, hurling (that's a Gaelic sport, not what happens after too many whiskeys), pub grub, and tramping around bogs and wind-bitten downs in search of ancient tombs.

Jason Cochran is Senior Editor of Budget Travel magazine. In addition to writing for publications such as Entertainment Weekly, The Village Voice, and Arena, he wrote questions for the first season of ABC's Who Wants to Be a Millionaire. He recently spent two years backpacking around the world, visiting six continents and over 40 countries. A current resident of New York City, he has also lived in Chicago, Atlanta, Key West, and Cape Town, South Africa.


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Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Hello! We're both online and primed to answer your every question about the beauty and appeal of Thailand. We'll get started right away:

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Towson, MD: Hello to you both...Can you list the top five absolute MUST SEES in Thailand?

Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here. I've gotten this question many times. Naturally, it's a matter of taste, but here are my top five, which hit many of the bases and span the country:

  • Bangkok: Wat Phra Kaeo and The Grand Palace: This luxurious, over-the-top complex of royal pavilions (check out those fantastic gilded sculptures!) is home of the famous Emerald Buddha (actually made of jade) and once the stomping grounds of the King of Siam, fictionalized by Yul Brynner. Nearby is Wat Pho, which houses the enormous Reclining Buddha. The huts on the grounds are the best place to get a cheap traditional Thai massage. The price? About $5 for an hour.
  • Chiang Mai: In northern Thailand, a city of monasteries, busy markets, and tourist-friendly courses in everything from Thai cooking to Thai massage. It's also the gateway to the jungles of Hill Country.
  • The islands: Each island suits a different taste, from the youth-oriented party isle of Ko Phagnan and Ko Samui to the more upscale, top-drawer resorts of Phuket. Sands are soft, waters are warm. (We sort through the identity of each of these islands in Budget Travel's July/August issue, on sale now.)
  • Sukhothai: The ruins of a city that until the 15th century served as the first capital of Siam, during the peak of its power in the region. Like Angkor Wat, it lay undisturbed in the jungle until the nineteenth century, but unlike its Cambodian counterprt, it's now well-kept, landscaped, and easy for travelers of any age or physical ability to navigate. It gives a peek into Thailand's long and varied history.
  • Kanchanaburi: Toss in a little recent history at the site of the infamous Bridge on the River Kwai, where the Japanese drove Allied soliders and hundreds of thousands of Asians into slavery and starvation to create a short-lived railway line. Lest you get too depressed at the painful wartime memories, the area is beautiful, with caves, raging rivers, and lush jungle national parks nearby. Tourists who come for the bridge, turn around, and return to Bangkok are really missing something.
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    Cabin John, MD: Reid, Have you seen or heard of $500 RT fares to Thailand (from NYC)? Someone told me they saw that, but could not remember where. Seems like an urban myth, but I thought I'd ask.

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: That would be a great fare, but not one that'll come along very often. (We saw a lot of those types of tickets last year, when the specter of SARS, war in Iraq, and general vague terrorism fears were keeping people away from travel in general and Asia in particular in droves.)

    We've had a lot of questions about how to find cheap tickets or any ongoing sales, so here's a blanket answer.

    You have to do your homework. Don't just run a query through Expedia, Orbitz, and Travelocity. Double-check those with sidestep.com (only for PC users), and at cheapflights.com. Check out the sales pages at all the major US airlines -- but don't forget to surf over to the Asian airlines as well, such as Cathay Pacific, Singapore Air, and (naturally) Thai Airways. Right now, Cathay Pacific is selling roundtrip from Sept through Nov for $636 from LA or San Francisco, $806 from New York's JFK (book by July 31).

    You should be able to find fares in the $600 to $700 range from Los Angeles, about $100 more from New York (it'll be a bit more difficult to match these up with airfare to LA or NYC from somewhere else in the US, but major airlines all have intertwining alliances that should help).

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    Kennewick, WA: Is the second half of April really a horrible time to go weather-wise? What should we expect at that time of the year versus, say mid-January?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In April, expect intense heat and humidity. I'm not being facetious -- Bangkok in April, right before the rainy season kicks in, can be oppressive to even those used to tropical climates, and the searing glare of the sun can turn an idle sightseeing stroll into a grueling trudge. It's still do-able (I myself have tramped around the country at that time of year -- boy, what an exotic way to lose weight!), but for more reasonable temperatures, December and January are the better months. (Jason)

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    Los Angeles, CA: My friend and I are interested in traveling to Thailand with very little itinerary. For example, not booking hotels or ground transportation in advance. We basically want to fly in, go where the wind takes us, and fly out. We're extremely adventurous and flexible, and believe this attitude will add to our experience. Others think we're being irresponsible. Any thoughts or suggestions?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: Yes -- I think that's a terrific idea. Frankly, most of the international budget travelers who are touring Thailand right now (Australian, British, Kiwi, etc.) are doing so on the fly. Since Thailand's tourist industry caters so heavily to independent travelers, it's enormously easy to pick up ideas and change your direction. When it comes to travel, Thailand is a very informal country. Bus tickets can be purchased minutes before departure, plane tickets can be had hours before takeoff, and at every train station, proprietors of guesthouses will forever be clamoring for your custom. Everywhere you stay (particularly in tourist hubs like Khao San Road in Bangkok), you'll hear tips and suggestions from your fellow travelers ("Don't go there -- it's not worth it" or "Don't miss this little town we found!") that will enrich your travels. My first trip to Thailand was completely unplanned. I arranged a plane ticket to land me in Bangkok and another to fly me out of Singapore a little over a month later. I filled my time once I arrived and I never got crowded out of something I wanted to see. If you're as adventurous as you claim, I dare say that you may even be a little surprised by how well-trod Thailand has become and how easy it is to tour. Die-hard travelers, in fact, report a little annoyance with how easy Thailand is these days.

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    Boston, MA: I know Thailand's a very popular destination these days: what are the most over-rated or over-touristed sights I should avoid?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason: Some people may want to smack me for saying this, but I am not a big fan of some of the markets held around the country, particularly the night markets in Chiang Mai and in Bangkok's Patpong. They are decidedly touristy. Visitors usually come away with overpriced Chinese-made trinkets or ridiculous souvenirs that, once they get home, will never see the light of day. The one great thing about many of the markets, though, is that they serve inexpensive and fantastic food. If you go to a market, go to eat. Reid: The Bridge on the River Kwai. It's got a fantastic story behind it, but it's just an iron bridge over a river. It's not about the beauty of Thailand. It can be a moving experience, but if you're choosing it over a true antiquity such as Ayutthaya or Sukhothai, you're selling yourself short.

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    Camp Verde, AZ: Is the language going to pose problems ?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Not really. English has become the world's common tongue, and you'll find it spoken (or broken, which is usually good enough) just about everywhere -- especially on the tourist circuit. Outside of America, most people are used to interacting with people who don't speak their languages. Most countries are small and most languages are spoken only locally, so people like the Thai know how to communicate with foreigners without using a common tongue. International tourism is big business in Thailand, so language barriers don't present much of a problem. You'll be fine.

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    New York, NY: I am getting married in Thailand in January. We are going on our honeymoon in the islands then. What 3 islands would you recommend for a romantic honeymoon? Also, do you know a good place to find elaborate Thai flatware in Bangkok?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First off, congratulations!
    Thailand can be a terribly romantic spot, and January is a great time to go, weather-wise. Picking an island is a pretty personal thing, and depends on what sorts of things and what kind of scene you are into. You can get the gist of five of them in my article in this month's BT magazine, which is also available on this site today (msnbc.msn.com/id/5023648).

    For utter romance? Definitely skip Phuket, which is overbuilt and overrun with tourists. Ko Samui has a well-developed infrastructure, and plenty of sightseeing opportunities as well, but for some it's getting a little too commercial (nothing like Phuket yet, though).

    I'd stay steer clear of Ko Phangan as well, unless you guys are ravers (every full moon, the beach at Hat Rin becomes a raging party of booze and designer drugs with thousands of 20-somethings jumping to trance beats; happens again on the half-moon). Ko Phi Phi is getting a bit crowded, but is still stunningly beautiful.

    If all you're looking for is a lot of sun, sand, and time to spend alone together, my pick would be Ko Lanta. It retains that feel of being all by yourself out on a tropical Asian isle, utterly relaxing, wither perfect surf and temperatures. A true dream destination, and the sum of what the Thai isles are supposed to be all about.

    As for flatware in Bangkok, I'm afraid I haven't a clue. One place I'd suggest to start is at the government-run Narayana Phand, a kind of department store of traditional Thai crafts at 127 Rajadamri Road (between Petchaburi Rd. and Ploenchit Rd., just down from the Grand Hyatt Erawan). They have the highest quality everything on 3-4 floors. I don't recall seeing flatware (probably because I wasn't looking), but there was loads of tableware and other ceramics (along with silks, carved wood, statues, musical instruments, and a hundred other artisan items), so it's a good bet.

    (Funny aside: my girlfriend and I actually ate with some gorgeous flatware in Le Grand Bleu restaurant on Ko Phi Phi -- forks and spoons so nice we both actually commented on them [not normally our sort of dinner table conversation]. Another couple in the restaurant clearly felt the same way, as we overheard them asking the waiter where the utensils came from and then interrupted their meal to bustle up the street to that shop. However, once we actually started eating with the things, they turned out to be incredibly conductive of heat -- uncomfortable to hold in our hands, and burning our lips. I guess the lesson is: buyer beware.)

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    Fort Worth, TX: My husband and I will be in Bangkok the first week of October. We have 2 days of sightseeing planned for the city, but have a 3rd day open for an excursion outside of Bangkok. Ayutthaya has been offered as a possible excursion, and I've heard it's worth seeing, but we are more interested in flying from Bangkok to Cambodia to see Angkor Wat. Would it be worth it for us to try to see as much as possible of Angkor Wat in one day, or are we better off going to Ayutthaya, since it is closer to Bangkok and takes less time than Angkor Wat? Thank you.

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: While it is possible to fly from Bangkok to Angor Wat and back in one day, you'd only get a few hours in the complex -- a complex which covers 300 square kilometers! There's a reason tickets are only sold for three-day and seven-day entry periods; it's impossible to do the site any sort of justice in less time.

    Save it for next trip, and spend the extra day exploring Ayutthaya, as you said, or just hanging around Bangkok. Two days is already barely long enough for such a fascinating city. Ride a long boat through the khlong (canals) that thread through the city. Wander the residential neighborhood of northern Banglamphu where folks still live in wooden houses and play out their lives in courtyards and narrow alleys. Return to Wat Po for an hour-long, full-body Thai massage. Go shopping for traditional crafts in the Siam Square area. Browse the markets. Visit temples. Cruise the river on the public ferries. Bangkok hides a thousand delights; you just have to take the time to discover them.

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    Southfield, MI: Hi, is Thailand safe for a young woman to travel alone?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: As safe as you could hope for. Violent crime is quite rare in Thailand, as the local police can be quite unforgiving with lawbreakers. It tends to keep people in check. In fact, by our State Department's own admission, Bangkok's crime rate is lower than that of many American cities. Tricksters and petty thieves are more common, so thwart them with the usual precautions: Don't dally with strangers, don't accept food or drink from someone you don't know, be streetwise, and so on. Besides, there are so many independent travelers in Thailand right now, you may even find it a struggle to stay solo. It's incredibly easy to link up with other travelers, make friends, and travel as a team. And should something terrible happen, health care is amazingly inexpensive -- just a few bucks for an X-ray or a cast. It makes you wonder why we have to pay so much for the same procedures back home.

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    San Francisco, CA: Is Thailand safe for Americans?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: For the same reasons as above, yes. The Thai are friendly people and they have no beef with the American style of life. In fact, they're adopting it more and more. Thai shopping malls are full of multiplexes and Dairy Queens and one-hour photo shops, and every Thai teenager has a flashy cell phone glued to his or her hand. There are a few poorer areas that are experiencing some domestic problems: along the Burmese border, for example, and in the deep south of the country near the Malaysian border, but these problems have been sporadic and they have nothing to do with American tourists. (Thailand, by the way has sent -- and lost -- men in Iraq as part of the American-led coalition.)

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    Vernon, CT: I am headed to Thailand for 2 weeks and I have $1,500 to spend on food, hotels, etc. Do you think this is enough? Thanks.

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Thailand is still wonderfully, exhilaratingly cheap. Simple hotel rooms in Bangkok and beach bungalows on the islands start at $5 to $10 -- maybe as much as $10 to $20 for really nice mid-scale places. Full meals start at under $1, and usually clock in around $2 to $5 (at really, really fancy places you may spend $25 per person on massive, gut-busting feasts). So yeah, you got plenty!

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    Edison, NJ: I am going to honeymoon in Thailand next summer (2005) for 2 to 4 weeks. Is this a bad season to go in terms of the weather? Is July better or worse than August? We are looking to stay at remote beach locations, as well as some towns and cities. What are your top 3 (or 5)? Any other suggestions?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Jason here: I answered a Top Five query a few entries back, but to follow on the weather-related portion of your question: Thankfully, you won't find the "monsoon" season in Thailand to be anything like the rainy season in, say, India, where life feels like a ceaseless deluge. Think of Thailand's rainy season as a relative of the rainy season in Florida, which coincidentally happens around the same period. You'll have sunny, warm days periodically interrupted with the odd heavy cloudburst and incidental tropical storm, but in general, you'll still be able to travel around the country and see what you want. Just be prepared for unexpected, warm passing downpours. If you want nearly guaranteed fine weather, go from December to February. As I also mentioned above, March to May can be insidiously hot and humid.

    If beach-going is part of your plan, be aware that on the southern peninsula, the weather is markedly different between the east and west coasts. On the west coast, the best time to visit is November to April, and on the east coast, the best period is May to October. The coasts aren't very far from each other, but their weather systems are worlds apart.

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    Floral Park, NY: I loved your article on Thailand. I am planning on going the end of August, but I heard it is monsoon season. Is this a completely bad time for me to go? I would be going to Phuket and a couple islands you wrote about. Help!

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Yeah, that is the height of Monsoon Season. That doesn't mean it'll be raining constantly or every day -- more like sudden downpours each afternoon, that they clear off to sunny again. It gets really humid, though. If you can put off the trip until November or December, so much the better.

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    New York, NY: I'm off to Bangkok and the southern islands in a couple weeks and wanted to know what I should pack. I don't want to lug around a lot of luggage, I was hoping to bring 2 backpacks or even one big one. Do you think this is enough? Oh, I'm going for a little over 2 weeks.

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: A single backpack is ample. Thailand is a hot country, so you won't want or need much clothing. A couple of bathing suits, a few T-shirts and pairs of shorts, and a good pair of walking sandals should do you. Don't bother with make-up or elaborate evening wear; I can't foresee an occasion when you'll need to dress up -- the Thai beach towns are gloriously informal.

    You can buy anything else you need, from batteries to sunglasses, for next to nothing once you're there. But save a little space for the one article of clothing that will be indispensable for you: a brightly colored sarong. You can buy one for a few bucks anywhere you go, since they're on sale positively everywhere. They're the Swiss Army Knife of Thai vacation fashion; they function as skirts, they stand in for beach towels (and they dry quickly), they become headdresses when you come out of the shower, etc. The other item you'll buy there will be a ubiquitous roll-up straw mat that you will sit upon when you're on the sand. They also cost a few bucks, and one will last you two weeks. Light linen or cotton pants are also available for a few dollars everywhere -- for those times you need to cover your legs, such as in a temple. They'll be cheaply made, but they'll certainly last two weeks.

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    Los Angeles, CA: What's the cheapest way to get to Thailand?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: In addition to airfare sales like the stellar one we touted above, we're big fans of the cheap air-hotel packages offered by a number of companies these days. They get you discounted airfare plus a handful of nights in a hotel, and the whole package doesn't cost much more than airfare alone probably would if you bought it on your own.

    For example, In September and October, Go-Today.com will fly you to Bangkok and put you up in a three-star hotel for five nights for $679 double from Los Angeles. Compare that price to the rate I just got on Delta from Orbitz (the airport code for Bangkok is BKK, by the way): $678 in late September. So for $1 more, you get five nights in a hotel and a transfer from the airport in Bangkok -- not a bad deal! OctopusTravelPackages.com is selling five-night packages in four- and five-star hotels from September to November for $959 double. Most of the time, you can extend your return flight date and stick around for a while, traveling independently, but those first five nights in a paid-for hotel really help a traveler get their feet on the ground in a new country. It's an ideal set-up.

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    Mountain Home, ID: My husband and I are going to Thailand in mid-September. We made our travel arrangements with a travel company, Djoser. What can you tell me about this company?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Djoser (pronouned "JOE-zer"), a company that originated in the Netherlands but now has an American office, has quite a following with the tourists who have discovered it. It specializes in escorted tours (as opposed to the air-hotel packages noted earlier in our chat). Budget Travel has received many positive notices about its guides and the company's organization, so we would say it's an excellent option. If you end up going with Djoser, please send us a note and let us know what you thought of it so that we may continue to keep tabs on the quality of its tours.

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    Burlington, NC: Just how bad are the mosquitoes on these islands and are they seasonal? Also, is there ever any surf on Thai beaches?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: First, the little biters. Mosquitoes are a bit worse throughout Thailand during and just after the rainy season (June through October), but they are a nuisance all year round -- though the risk of catching Dengue Fever and Japanese B encephalitis from one of them is greater during the rainy season. Frustratingly, the breed of mosquitoes that's out by day can carry dengue; those out by night are the type to carry malaria, so it's no like you can trick them.

    It's really more a time-of-day, issue than a time-of-year one. Mosquitoes are out feeding in the early morning and again in the late afternoon/early evening. In the end, it's easiest just to plan to be indoors during these swarming hours. Also, be sure to wear long sleeves and pants as often as possible (spray them with permethrin for extra protection; you can get it at www.rei.com), bring plenty of DEET repellant for your skin, keep windows and doors closed during those morning and evening hours, and treat that mosquito netting around your bed with respect.

    That said, the islands are actually infinitely better than the interior when it comes to flying blood-suckers, if for no other reason than the steady light breeze off the water keeps them at bay (seriously; you can be sitting at a beachside restaurant, completely bug-free, then walk just one block inland to where the buildings cut off the breeze, and all of a sudden it's feeding time.)

    Speaking of beaches, no, there's no surf to speak of in Thailand; a bit during monsoon season, but really that's more of some ripples you could conceivably ride a board on, not something you'd go out of your way to do.

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    Hopewell Junction, NY: I will be traveling to Thailand in September. Do I have to worry about chicken virus? Should I take any precautions, like maybe not going?

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: You must be referring to the headline-making avian flu. Relax -- there is no evidence that you can catch it from another human. In order to get it, you'd have to spend an awful lot of time fraternizing with chickens. As long as your accommodations aren't in a henhouse, you'll be fine. Neither the World Health Organization nor the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention -- two of the planet's most trigger-happy groups when it comes to issues of contagious disease -- have deemed the avian flu worrysome enough to issue any travel warnings. It would be a shame for you to cancel your Thai adventure because the press has failed to adequately portray the nature of the disease. For official assurances, refer to the State Department's fact sheet on the topic: travel.state.gov/avian_flu_factsheet.html

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    Cloverdale, CA: Hello Reid & Jason, I am going to Thailand at the end of this month for 5 months on a study abroad program at Thammasat University in Bangkok. I've read different articles about appropriate clothing for women but wondered if you can give me any insight into this. I was told that I need to bring along a "uniform" of a white shirt and a black skirt. I know you are a couple of guys, but can you tell me what would be appropriate in skirt length. Also, I have a tongue piercing. How is that looked upon? Should I remove it before I go? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: We think it's great you are being so conscious of social norms. Kudos. More people should travel as respectfully as you. Even as guys, we know to recommend that you cover as much skin as possible. At the beach, fine, wear a bikini. But in Bankgok, spend your days in pants or, when in school with that uniform code, a demure skirt down to at least mid-calf. It'd be best if you just ask the school how long a skirt is appropriate (for all we know, ankle-length is the rule; or maybe it's a ultraprogressive, miniskirt type place -- though we doubt it). Short-sleeve blouses are OK (a concession to how hot it is over there).

    As for the tongue stud, you're on your own. It'll definitely set you apart as one of those wacky foreigners. Your tongue is going to be punished enough by the nuclear-hot spices in the food over there, so maybe you'll want to take it out now and let the hole heal before subjecting it to Thai cooking! have a great time; we're jealous.

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    Reid Bramblett & Jason Cochran: Well, that's it! We had a great time. Sorry we couldn't get to every question, but we hope this helped.
    Sawat dii, khap. (That's goodbye...also hello, which is a nice sentiment)

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    Backcountry Skiing

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Not only is a backcountry skier rewarded with miles of untouched powder and remote mountain vistas only seen in ski mags or Warren Miller movies, but usually the costs of an off-piste adventure are usually minimal, and sometimes totally free. Some mountain areas where backcountry skiing is popular even have huts and lodges for overnight adventures. Conditions are usually pretty spartan, but the nightly bill is often under $30. Backcountry basics Finding a spot for backcountry skiing isn't as simple as locating a snow-covered slope. First off, backcountry skiing is not allowed everywhere. Many ski resorts will not let you hike their trails and ski down (in-bounds or out-of-bounds) without a pass of some sort. Plus, avalanches are part of the normal winter cycle in many mountain environments, especially out West. Some research is required to make sure your adventure is fun, the snow is good, and conditions are safe. The best place to start research is at "Off-Piste: The Backcountry Adventure Journal," published monthly in the winter. This rag, written and edited by backcountry diehards, can be found in convenience stores, ski lodges, and coffee shops in most ski towns. It's also got a fine Web site, offpistemag.com/, with features on great backcountry spots, an online forum for Q&A's with fellow enthusiasts, lists of upcoming events, free demos, avalanche training sessions, and other news, plus a link for 20 or so books focused on backcountry adventure. After reading up on the basics, do some soul-searching. An honest review of your physical conditioning is necessary too (perhaps this requires an outsider's opinion). Are you up to the task of carting yourself and your gear up a mountain in the snow? Would you rather the comforts of chairlifts, ski patrollers, and happy hour at the end of the day? Do you want a daytime trip only, or are you up for an overnighter? No matter where your personality fits in here, you should be in good shape, and have a goodly amount of experience in both skiing and hiking before giving the backcountry a try. Do-it-yourself locales Some locales are easy enough for a first-time backcountry skier to give it a shot, while at others it's a good idea to go only with a seasoned veteran or a professional guide. Some trails would only be fun for snowshoers and telemark or cross-country skiers, while other steep slopes are only good for expert downhill skiers or snowboarders. Just know what you're getting into before heading out into the woods. One of the first popular backcountry spots in the U.S. is Tuckerman Ravine, a bowl-shaped face above the tree line on New Hampshire's Mount Washington (the Northeast's tallest peak). Skiers have been coming here since the 1930's, and hundreds still come each weekend in late April and early May, when there's still plenty of snow and days are relatively warm. 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You will have to pay to stay in the area overnight of course, but there are plenty of affordable B&B's and motels in nearby North Conway, New Hampshire. Go to mountwashingtonvalley.org/ for a list of options. Find out about the limited camping and hut facilities located a short hike from Tuckerman Ravine at tuckerman.org/. Another good source of info on Tuckerman's, including its annual triathlon, at friendsoftuckerman.org/. The Appalachian Mountain Club (outdoors.org/) also operates a few lodges and huts in the Mount Washington area, starting in the neighborhood of $20 a night. Big backcountry adventures The West is where truly epic backcountry trips can be had. It's also where avalanches are more likely (they're almost unheard of in the East), so do some studying before heading up into the mountains. An avalanche training course couldn't hurt. Wherever there is fresh powder and an inclined slope, chances are some nutty kid has tried skiing it. But that doesn't mean you should do the same. Finding the best backcountry spots can be difficult--some locals protect their favorite places just as a fisherman might be reluctant to tell of a hidden nook where he knows the bass are biting. There are some fairly well-known places, however, where the snow is usually sensational, conditions are usually safe, and the crowds still haven't arrived. In many cases, there are even huts or lodges in the area, where $20 or $30 pays for a roof over your head. Skiers head to the backcountry to get away from the crowds, but it's a good idea to only go out where you'll see the occasional human face should something go amiss. The various backcountry lodges and hut systems are good places to get your feet wet (or at least, the outsides of your waterproof boots wet). In many instances, day trips are possible, so you can skip the cost of a hut overnight. You may still have to pay a nominal fee of $1 to $5 for access to the trails. Here's a quick run-down of some possibilities out West: Sierra Club Ski Huts: a dozen remote lodgings spread about in the mountains of California, usually with bunk facilities, charging $10 to $30 a night. Web site: sierraclub.org/outings/lodges 10th Mountain Division Hut Association: 29 huts in the Colorado Rockies, usually a few-mile hike or ski away from the nearest road, with 350 miles of skiable trails, starting at $25 a night. Web: huts.org/. The Alpine Club of Canada: an association of 20 backcountry huts in Western Canada popular among skiers, snowboarders, climbers, and mountaineers, charging about US$7 to $20 a night. On the Web: alpineclubofcanada.ca/. Sun Valley Trekking: a group of huts and yurts (large, durable circle-shaped tents) in the backcountry near Sun Valley, Idaho, with rates starting at $30 a night. Web site: svtrek.com/. Wallowa Alpine Huts: an Oregon-based outfit that offers guides, all meals, gear transport, and backcountry hut lodgings, starting at a little over $100 per day. On the Web: wallowahuts.com/.

    Skiing Affordably

    Lift tickets are an eye-bulging aspect of fun in the snow. Top resorts regularly require riders and skiers to drop $60 or more a day for the use of its slopes, and that's before adding in the costs of food, gear, accommodations, and Apres ski fun. There are various ways around the full-price lift ticket. Here are a few. Ski weekdays, not weekends The snow is the same, the slopes are much less crowded, plus you're saving money. There is really no down side to skiing on weekdays, if you can get the time off of work. It's the simplest way to save money: just hit the slopes during a weekday, non-holiday period, and prices will be 20 to 50 percent off in many cases (though a few stingy resorts charge full price no matter what). Hotel rooms are usually less expensive too. Look out for midweek hotel-lift ticket packages, when your chances are biggest for paying the least. Senior, child and student Always, always, always ask for them before purchasing. Sometimes these discounts are not advertised, but almost every resort offers lift ticket savings for seniors, children, and students. You'll often pay 50 percent or less than the regular adult-priced pass (and sometimes totally free for kids and seniors). Many mountains extend the discounts to lessons and rentals too. Ski part (not all) of the mountain Many resorts offer special ski passes for those only interested in riding a limited number of chairlifts. These offers are usually aimed at beginner skiers, who are more likely to stick at the bottom of the mountain and ride one or two chairlifts all day. Alta, in Utah, for example, charges $25 for a lift ticket good on three beginner chairlifts (while all-access passes cost $47). Check out whether a ski mountain offers such savings before paying full price, beginners especially. Ski part (not all) of the day Half-day ski passes are yet another of the annoying aspects of winter sports. They're called "half-day" but they sure as heck ain't half-price. Typically, half-day passes cost maybe 20 percent less than a full-day pass ($60 for full-day, $50 for half-day is fairly normal). Still, four hours of skiing is more than enough for some folks. So rather than ski from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m., why not buy the half-day pass, save the $10, and hit the slopes from noon to 4 p.m.? Try to figure out how much skiing is enough for your legs to handle. Few skiers really get a full day's worth of skiing, especially if they're up at the mountain several days in a row. Swallow your pride and save a few bucks. Also, inquire if a resort has hourly or per-run rates, or special half-day tickets. Some resorts will charge by the hour or by the run these days. Others (particularly those that attract a big weekend crowd) will offer bigger half-day discounts for skiing on Sunday afternoons (when most visitors are trying to get home). Ski cards.discount programs These are primarily of interest only to those who ski at one resort regularly. Over the past few years, many resorts began programs that are essentially frequent skier discounts. Instead of offering the sole option of a season pass (which is worthwhile only for the select few who can ski dozens of days a year), resorts are now offering passes that are worth it if used only a handful of times. Here's how many of the passes work. You pay a certain amount up front for an ID card (say $50 or $75), and then each time you ski you pay a discounted rate (often as much as 50 percent off the standard lift rate). The card is set up to charge a credit card immediately, so this eliminates the need to wait in line to get a lift pass each day. Many times, if you ski at the resort five times or so, the card pays for itself and then some. Often when you buy such cards, they come with further savings if you bring other skiers along with you. The downsides of these cards? No variety. Since you have the discount card, you wind up always skiing at the same resort. Also, if you're going to wind up skiing only a few times, it may be cheaper to pay as you go. Alternately, some mountains offer passes that can be used at a handful of resorts (usually if they're owned by the same parent company). These passes are especially popular in Colorado, and are well-worth investigating if you plan on skiing more than a few times in the same region. Each ski resort's Web site will tell you all the details of its frequent skier programs, if it offers any. For example, a pass good for unlimited days at Colorado's Breckenridge, Keystone, and Arapahoe Basin, and 10 days at Vail and Beaver Creek, costs $349 at snow.com/. Scout out the local scene Oftentimes, newspapers in proximity to ski resorts post coupons and special offers. These are aimed at getting locals out to the resorts, but anyone (including tourists from out of state) can take advantage of them. So, newspapers in Denver are where to look for specials in Breckenridge, Vail, or Winter Park; newspapers in Salt Lake are where to find savings in Park City or Snowbird, and newspapers in Burlington, Vermont, are where ads for Stowe, Sugarbush, or Smuggler's Notch are likely to pop up. The best chances for finding these coupons and offers are in a paper's Travel sections (usually on Sunday, but some have Wednesday editions too). Can't find these papers in your town? Newsstands in big cities and huge bookstores like Barnes & Noble and Borders usually have a wide selection of newspapers from around the country. Libraries are often stocked with newspapers from all over as well. Gas stations, ski shops, and supermarkets are also sources of discounted lift tickets. Once you're in the vicinity of a ski mountain, ask around to see if tickets can be bought outside the resort to save money. Look into a ski package Almost every resort offers a number of lift-and-lodging packages. At the beginning and end of ski seasons, these packages are the best bargains on snow. It is not unusual to find a early winter or late spring ski package with accommodations and lift passes at a per-night price that in mid-February would have barely paid for a single-day's lift ticket. So check each resort's Web site (do a google search if you don't have Web addresses) for the latest promotional packages-especially in fall and spring. Several discount travel operators sell ski packages that combine a lift ticket with lodging, car rental, airfare, or all of the above. Packages are oftentimes (but not always) an easy way to save money. Shopping around is necessary to figure out which way is most budget-friendly. Reputable ski packages A few packagers that tend to have decent prices: Leisure Link International (888/801-8808, leisurelinkintl.com/) Lynx Vacations (877/284-7544, lynxvacations.com/) Moguls Mountain Travel (800/6-MOGULS, skimoguls.com/) Resort Quest (877/588-5800, resortquest.com/) Rocky Mountain Tours (800/525-SKIS, skithewest.com/) Southwest Airlines Vacations (800/243-8372, swavacations.com/) Ski Europe (800/333-5533, ski-europe.com/) Adventures on Skis (800/628-9655, advonskis.com/) Value Holidays (800/558-6850, valhol.com/) Holidaze Ski Tours (800/526-2827, holidaze.com/) Central Holidays (800/935-5000, centralholidays.com/) Go-Today Travel (800/227-3235, go-today.com/)

    Ski Rental Tips

    Skiing and snowboarding are considered sports for the economic elite—enjoyed by the same people who "summer" in the Hamptons or the South of France. But it doesn't have to be. If what you value is skiing itself (and not the deluxe resorts nor the snobbish appeal of the "scene"), there are plenty of affordable opportunities when it comes to hitting the snow. Here are tips on ways to save money when skiing, including purchasing equipment inexpensively, the questions of when and where to rent, and a tip on finding affordable food. Getting gear without getting takenOne big reason skiing seems like a snobby sport is because, at least on first glance, simply outfitting yourself for a day in the powder requires a Rockefeller's bank account. $800 skis? $600 boots? $400 ski pants? $200 gloves? Yes, some people actually pay these outrageous prices, and they fork over these amounts once every year or two, to make sure they always have the latest, most fashionable gear and clothing. Does it make them better skiers? Do they enjoy themselves more? Not a chance on both accounts. There is an old adage among ski gurus that the true snow-riding diehards are the ones with duct tape holding together some part of their gear (such ragged duct-taped individuals are likely to be the ones zooming by you in a blur). True powder hounds value their time on the snow, not their moment waiting in the liftline (which some consider the equivalent of a model's runway). They also know when, and how, to find quality ski equipment at the best prices (the less spent on equipment, the more they can spend on adventures in the snow, after all). First off, think of ski or snowboard gear like cars. Each year, there is a new model, and rarely is there a big change from the previous edition. Just as a car still on the lot has its price slashed in the summer (when the newer models are released), perfectly fine ski equipment is sold at huge discounts if it has sat on the storeroom floor long enough. You'll find the best prices in the late spring and summer, when ski shops are looking to clear out inventory. At other times of year, ask a clerk if any of last year's equipment is still left over (holdovers may be hard to find; the new stuff is always displayed most prominently). This goes for skis, boots, poles, and boards, as well as ski pants, jackets, gloves, goggles, and all the toys that go along with winter sports. Secondly, consider buying used equipment. The aforementioned fashionistas purchasing brand-new gear every year often get rid of their barely used equipment, and they might sell them off for next to nothing. (Apparently, they can't bare being seen with anything the latest models.) Many ski resorts and shops have tent sales in spring and summer, where the previous season's rental skis are sold off en masse. Barely used ski bargains also abound at swap meets, local newspaper's classified ads, and on the Web, at bidding sites like eBay (www.ebay.comHave an idea of what the going rate for brand-new equipment is, and then never pay more than half the manufacturer's standard price for used gear. It's hard for novices to know whether equipment has been seriously damaged, so bring along an experienced skier friend, if possible, to look over your perspective "new" gear. You should just rent equipment, though, if you're truly testing the waters (frozen waters, that is), and want only to invest a bare minimum while scouting out the sport. I definitely recommend renting if you're a beginner (old or young), for three possible reasons: one, because they may accel in the sport and outperform their first pair of novice skis in a hurry; two, because beginners tend to ski seldomly and their skis may spend months, even years collecting dust; and three, because there's no guarantee that a beginner will enjoy the sport, and they may wind up giving it up entirely after a few tries. Renting equipment may also be a good idea for young children. They'll outgrow their boots, if not their skis, in a season, sometimes quicker. But obviously if a family has more than one child, bought skis can be passed down from the older child to the younger child. For big families, buying inexpensive skis for kids is normally a good investment. No one needs the latest, most hi-tech equipment to enjoy skiing, especially not children. There is no problem with letting kids ski with equipment that is several years old. They'll still have a great time.Before renting, however, realize that buying used or discounted equipment may cost the same as three or four days of rentals. So sometimes it's worth it to buy equipment, even if you're only planning on using the skis, poles, and boots for a week's vacation. As for where to rent equipment, don't wait until you're at the resort. It's better to shop around. You can almost always find a cheaper place to rent ski equipment at a shop in town (in your town or the town right outside the resort), rather than on the mountain, where they know you have little choice but to rent from them. Pack a lunchOne final tip: The food at ski cafeterias is never, never, never, ever a good buy. Prices for grub inside a ski lodge are usually on par with those at sports arenas or airports. Burgers for $8, candy bars for $2, and a bottle of Gatorade for $4 are not unusual. So do yourself a favor and pack a sandwich, some fruit, and a drink. If the idea of making a sandwich doesn't gel with your vacation, buy a lunch somewhere off the resort grounds and bring it to the lodge. It'll be much cheaper than the cafeteria eats, and chances are, tastier too.

    Football Historical Tours

    Football may not have all the historic lore and tradition of baseball, but that doesn't mean there aren't lots of great places to visit if you're looking to celebrate some football history. Let's tackle a few of them right now: First quarter: Football halls of fame Starting from the top, every football fan should pay a visit to the Pro Football Hall of Fame in Canton Ohio (2121 George Halas Drive N.W., 330-456-8207). Opened on Sept 7, 1963, the hall and museum has since been visited by more than seven million fans. The Pro Football Hall of Fame boasts almost 83,000 square feet of football history, tracing the sport's roots from 1892 through the present day. Thousands of artifacts are displayed, from the helmet and jersey Emmitt Smith would wore when he became the NFL's career rushing leader to many of legendary footballer Jim Thorpe's personal effects.Much like its baseball counterpart, the hall inducts new players each year and a special Hall of Fame game is played each year in Canton. Just to the north is another, albeit smaller museum and pro football hall of fame, the Canadian Football Hall of Fame, located 58 Jackson Street West in Hamilton, Ontario. It opened in 1972 and honors the stars of Canadian football and features a fun "hands on" zone and tributes to greats with Canadian roots such as Joe Kapp and Warren Moon. The College Football Hall of Fame, (located in Indiana near Notre Dame at 111 South St. Joseph St., South Bend) features thousands of treasured college football artifacts along with a 360-degree Stadium Theater. Youngsters take note: you'll want to visit the Pop Warner Museum at 98 East Main Street in Springville (upstate New York). Named for Glenn "Pop" Warner, it commemorates the incredible career of this legendary football hero. During his four decades as a coach, Warner brought many innovations to college football, including the spiral punt, the screen play, single- and double-wing formations, the naked reverse, the three-point stance, numbering players' jerseys, and the use of shoulder and thigh pads. But for many, Warner is best remembered for starting the Pop Warner Youth Football League in 1929. Second quarter: traces of football's past On Nov 8, 1970, at the former site of Tulane Stadium, New Orleans Saints' place-kicker Tom Dempsey, prepared to kick a 63-yard field goal in the closing seconds of a game against the Detroit Lions. If he made it, it would be the longest field goal in NFL history. The Lions were up 17 to 16 and so Dempsey was the Saints' last chance. Adding to the drama was the fact that Dempsey's kicking foot was deformed to the point that he only had half a foot. Incredibly, Dempsey put it through the goalposts, making history and winning the game for the Saints. To date, the record stands as the longest, though Denver's Jason Elam tied the record in 1998. Torn down in 1980, there is not a single piece of Tulane Stadium remaining. However, three plaques that used adorn the stadium's walls remain, now placed at what once was the northeast corner of the stadium. (Aron Student Residences at Stadium Place, intersection of McAlister Drive and Willow Street at Tulane University in New Orleans, Louisiana.) To experience a classic stadium that does still stand, look no further than the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, located at 3911 South Figueroa Street in Los Angeles. University of Southern California plays there now, but this place has hosted two Super Bowls (including the first) and hundreds of college and pro games. Since the early 1920's, it has hosted six professional football teams: The Rams, Dons, Chargers and Raiders of the NFL, the Express of the USFL and the Extreme of the short-lived XFL. Finally, at the Intersection of Grant and Pennsylvania Avenues in Pittsburgh is the former site of Recreation Park. As the marker reads, pro football began at this site in 1892 in when former Yale star William "Pudge" Heffelfinger was paid $500 to play in a single game for the Allegheny Athletic Association on Nov 12. Third quarter: stadium tours Stadium tours are a terrific way to get a behind-the-scenes look at the NFL. More and more stadiums offer them, and here are some of the better tours: The Lambeau Field Stadium Tour lets Packer fans relive the memories of legends including Vince Lombardi, Fuzzy Thurston, Ray Nitschke, Bart Starr and Brett Farve. The 60-minute tour gives you access to behind-the-scenes areas and you'll even walk through the team tunnel on the same concrete that every Packers player has walked on since Lombardi's teams took the field. Adults $8. Discounts for seniors, students and kids. (855 LombardiAvenue, Green Bay, Wisconsin, 920-569-7513.) While there, don't miss the Packers Hall of Fame for more Packers history. Football Museums Pro Football Hall of Fame 2121 George Halas Drive NW, Canton, Ohio 44708, (330) 456-8207, Admission: $13 Canadian Football Hall of Fame 58 Jackson Street West, Hamilton, Ontario L8P 1L4, (905) 528-7566, Admission: $3 College Football Hall of Fame 111 South St. Joseph Street, South Bend, IN 46601, 800-440 FAME , General admission: $10 For those who like their Bears history, another classic tour to take is Soldiers Field in Chicago. It includes the South Courtyard, Doughboy Statue, Grand Concourse, Mezzanine Level, the Cadillac Club and Colonnades, Sky Suites, Visitor's Locker Room, and West Den and costs tour costs $15 per adult, discounted rates for seniors and children. (312-235-7244). Heading south, the tours at Texas Stadium (972-785-4850) will thrill Cowboy fans. It takes you behind the scenes and into the locker rooms of the famous Lone Star State landmarks. Adults $10, less for seniors and kids. Fourth quarter: a few classic college stadiums Another great way to experience football history is by visiting the hallowed, ivy-covered walls of some legendary collegiate battlefields. Ohio Stadium in Columbus is one of the most recognizable landmarks in all of athletics. Now more than 80 years old, it holds more than 100,000 fans and fits perfectly along the banks of the Olentangy River. Harvard Stadium, the nation's oldest, is another classic stop. A giant "horseshoe" which blends Greek and Roman styles, its sight lines are some of the best in the game. And of course, Notre Dame Stadium in South Bend, Indiana, "The House that Rockne Built", is perhaps the most hallowed in the nation. Originally built in 1930, it's undergone much refurbishment but still retains all of its historic charm. Overtime: big time high school football High school football is the lifeblood of some communities, as important to a small town as an NFL franchise is to a big city. A few of the most historic (and intense) places to enjoy the spirit of small-town high school football include the following: 18,000-seat Paul Brown Tiger Stadium at Massillon Washington High Stadium in Masillon, Ohio. It was built in 1939 and is where former Ohio State and Cleveland Browns Hall of Famer Paul Brown led the Tigers to six straight state titles and two national championships. In Cincinnati is The Pit at Elder High School. Built in 1947, the 10,000-seat horseshoe-shaped stadium actually turns down more than 500 season ticket requests each season, so intense is the local fan base. In Valdosta, Georgia is Valdosta High. The team plays at Cleveland Field at Bazemore-Hyder Stadium, which was built in 1922 and holds 12,000 of the faithful. Unique to the filed is a loud pre-game ritual. A tunnel leads out of the locker room and as players make their way to the field, they use their helmets to pound the bottom of the tin roof, which creates a deafening sound. And at West Monroe High in West Monroe, Louisiana, fans gather at Rebel Stadium, which was built in 1953 and seats 10,200. A college atmosphere rules the day here, replete with some of the best gastronomical tailgaiting anywhere (for those who love red beans and rice and jambalaya). Whether you go long or short, there are plenty of places to celebrate pro, college, even high school football-don't pass them up!