A Month in New Zealand With No Set Plans

By The Staff
June 4, 2005
A couple wants to see the country's dramatic landscapes, Maori culture, and...penguins and Art Deco architecture?

What you'll find in this story: New Zealand travel, New Zealand transportation, New Zealand attractions, New Zealand culture, New Zealand destinations, New Zealand sites

Six years ago, Jeff and Linda Lowe sold their home in Santa Barbara, Calif., quit their jobs, and relocated to Kailua, Oahu. They live off a few rental properties they own, spend a lot of time at the beach, and travel as much as they can. "Our latest trip was a last-minute, 28-day cruise around South America," said Linda, who is 53, like her husband. "We fell in love with Chile and the Patagonia region, especially the penguins."

In mid-February, the couple is starting an adventure that'll make nine-to-fivers even more jealous: They're off to New Zealand and Australia for five weeks, and they asked us to help plan the trip--specifically in New Zealand, where they'll be for most of their vacation. "We'd like to see as much as possible," Linda wrote to us.

The first thing we did was talk the Lowes out of a 12-day cruise from Auckland to Sydney, because it would be difficult to spend all that time at sea and still see everything they wanted to on land. A regional upstart airline, Pacific Blue, has flights from Christchurch, on New Zealand's South Island, to Melbourne, for $154.

The Lowes are starting off in Auckland, on the North Island, and working their way south in a rental car. We told them that making hotel reservations more than a day in advance is rarely necessary. Two essentials: a detailed road map (bought locally at any bookstore) and a reliable accommodations guide from the country's automobile association (available for free at almost every hotel in the country).

Jeff and Linda were curious about a festival happening February 17 to 20 in Napier, in the Hawkes Bay region. After an earthquake destroyed Napier in 1931, the city was rebuilt in the pastel colors and art deco style popular at the time--giving Napier its claim to fame and the genesis of the annual Brebner Print Art Deco Weekend. Everyone dresses up in vintage suits, top hats, and flapper dresses for jazz concerts, dances, and a big Great Gatsby Picnic. No need to bring along costumes, we told the Lowes; a couple of stores in town rent 1930s-style clothing for $3.50 and up.

"We're interested in the cultural similarities between the native peoples of New Zealand, Australia, and Hawaii and want to meet some of the Maori," said Linda. On the drive from Auckland to Napier, the Lowes are planning on a stop in Rotorua. The city is known for two main reasons--a third of the population is Maori, and it is near one of the most volcanically active areas in the world. A good place to learn about both is the Whakarewarewa thermal village, where the entrance price includes a guided tour of the village, access to its mud pools and hot thermal lakes, and a performance of traditional Maori song and dance. In Wellington--the capital, and the country's best all-around town--the Te Papa Tongarewa Museum is a must. Admission is free, and there are Maori sailing vessels, a marae (traditional meeting place), and hundreds of native artifacts.

From Wellington, the Lowes will board a three-hour ferry and then spend about three weeks on the South Island. After several days of leisurely driving down the coast, it's time to meet with some of Jeff and Linda's favorite creatures. A colony of blue penguins puts on a nightly show at Oamaru, three hours south of Christchurch. Returning from an industrious day of fishing just after dusk, the birds hop along adorably from rock to rock, back to their nests, while a crowd views from a respectful distance.

Another two hours south, at Dunedin (duh-nee-din), the Lowes are detouring east out onto the Otago Peninsula. Near the end of the road is the Royal Albatross Centre, where, with a little luck, they'll see a few of the giant birds. Most people turn around here, but we directed the Lowes to the Natures Wonders Naturally tour, at a sheep farm on the ocean's edge. Visitors ride on ultrarugged eight-wheel ATVs while the driver occasionally spins 360's in the mud, and there are chances to get up-close views of penguins and baby fur seals along the coast.

"Stewart Island seems interesting, though we don't know much about it," said Linda. The third largest of New Zealand's isles, where nearly 85 percent of the land is a national park, is home to a few hundred full-time residents. We advised the Lowes to take the ferry over from Bluff. The South Sea Hotel, which has quiet units with kitchenettes behind the main building, is a short walk from the wharf. We told the Lowes to look into a guided tour of the bird sanctuary on nearby Ulva Island, run by a Maori woman named after the island.

The South Island's west coast is the focus of their final 10 or so days in New Zealand, and they saved the best scenery for last. The first stop is Milford Sound, one of the world's wonders, with countless waterfalls and sheer cliffs that shoot out of the sea more than a mile high. Since there isn't much in the way of lodging nearby, we recommended the Lowes go for the overnight cruise on the Milford Wanderer, which includes bunks, meals, and the use of sea kayaks.

From there, we set the Lowes on the prettiest path to Christchurch: up through the lakes and mountains of adventure capital Queenstown; through the lakeside town of Wanaka (wah-ni-kuh); past the snowy trio of the Mount Cook, Fox, and Franz Josef glaciers; and, finally, across Arthur's Pass National Park, which is filled with vistas of rivers and mountain peaks that'll overwhelm the average digital camera's memory card.

If our suggestions don't suffice, the Lowes can talk to a local at Tourism New Zealand's 24-hour toll-free number. Have a blast! We nine-to-fivers are indeed jealous.

Transportation

  • Pacific Blue 011-61/7-3295-2284, virginblue.com.au, Christchurch to Melbourne $154
  • Interislander 011-64/4-498-3302, interislander.co.nz, ferry to South Island for two adults and a car $193
  • Stewart Island Experience stewartislandexperience.co.nz, round-trip ferry to Stewart Island $64.25
  • Lodging

  • Fairley Motor Lodge Napier,fairley.co.nz, $85.75
  • South Sea Hotel Stewart Island, 011-64/3-219-1059, http://www.stewart-island.co.nz/, motel unit $85.75, hotel room with shared bath from $57.25
  • Attractions

  • Whakarewarewa Rotorua, 011-64/7-349-3463, whakarewarewa.com, $14.25
  • Te PapaTongarewa Museum Wellington, 011-64/4-381-7000, tepapa.govt.nz, free
  • Oamaru Blue Penguin Colony 011-64/3-433-1195, penguins.co.nz, $10.50
  • Royal Albatross Centre 011-64/ 3-478-0499, albatross.org.nz, free admission, one-hour tour $17.75
  • Natures Wonders Naturally 011-64/3-478-1150, or 0800-246-446 in New Zealand, natureswondersnaturally.com, tour $25
  • Ulva's Guided Walks Stewart Island, 011-64/3-219-1216, ulva.co.nz, three-hour tour $60.75
  • Milford Wanderer 011-64/3-249-7416, realjourneys.co.nz, overnight cruise $139 Resources
  • New Zealand Automobile Association aaguides.co.nz
  • Brebner Print Art Deco Weekend artdeconapier.com
  • Stewart Island stewartisland.co.nz
  • Tourism New Zealand 866/639-9325, newzealand.com
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    Inspiration

    Dream Destinations Around the World

    What you'll find in this story: Dream vacations, International travel information, Victoria Falls tips, Grand Canyon travel, Great Wall of China details, Galapagos Islands travel, Stonehenge information We all have a list of the iconic places and adventures we hope to experience someday. Isn't it time to turn those daydreams into reality? Grand Canyon "Mountain Lying Down" is what the Paiute tribe called it. Teddy Roosevelt said it's "the one great sight every American should see." At 5,000 feet deep, an average of 10 miles across, and millennia in the making, the Grand Canyon is the earth's most famous scar. Getting there Phoenix and Las Vegas are less than five hours away by car. You can drive right up and gaze out over the rim, but some of the best experiences require months, even years, of planning. Camping permits (summer only) tend to sell out four months in advance, while bunks at Phantom Ranch, an eight-mile hike to the canyon floor, get snagged a year ahead (888/297-2757, grandcanyonlodges.com, $27). The same goes for guided rafting trips: A six-night trip through the entire canyon with meals and gear starts at $1,575 (800/525-0924, canyoneers.com). You made it Admission for a vehicle and its passengers costs $20 for a week (928/638-7888, nps.gov/grca). In peak months, you must use free shuttles to get around many areas. Stay at the Maswik Lodge, a quarter mile from the canyon's edge (grandcanyonlodges.com, $67). Or go for a log cabin at the quieter North Rim, which 90 percent of the park's 4 million annual visitors ignore (open mid-May to mid-October, grandcanyonnorthrim.com, from $92). An even smaller group--about 25,000 a year--makes the trek to Havasu Canyon, in the Havasupai Indian Reservation (928/448-2121, havasupaitribe.com, $20 entrance fee per person). Havasu Canyon's turquoise waters shoot out over three towering waterfalls. Supai, the reservation's only town, provides a base, with a café, store, camping ($10 per person), and a basic lodge ($80). Who knew? Campsites, bunks at Phantom Ranch, and spots on white-water trips can open up at the last minute, even in summer. For camping inside the canyon, show up at the Backcountry Information Center (across from the Maswik Lodge) before 8 a.m. and get on the waiting list. If you have no luck, repeat the next day. (By the third day, you should have a camping permit; find a campsite or hotel on top of the canyon or just outside the park while you're on the list.) Phantom Ranch also has cancellations, but don't just hike down and hope that something is available. Call two days before you arrive to see if anything has opened up. Scoring a last-minute seat on a rafting trip is a crapshoot, but it can work. There are 16 river outfitters officially approved by the park service, and you'll have to contact them one at a time (nps.gov/grca/river). For all of these possibilities, the smaller your group, the better your chances. Stonehenge Is it a prehistoric astronomical tool? The burial ground of chieftains and kings? A site for human sacrifices to vengeful pagan gods? Stonehenge is a peerless monument to 1,500 years of backbreaking dedication. Yet the exact purpose of these circles of massive rocks--which were dragged hundreds of miles here between 3,500 and 5,000 years ago--remains a mystery. Getting there Guided day tours from London start at $90 from Stonehenge Tour Company (011-44/700-078-1016, stonehengetours.com). But Stonehenge's location, in Wiltshire, is an easy 80 miles from London if you want to go it alone. Rent a car from $60 a day (EasyCar, 0906-333-3333 in the U.K., easycar.com). If you'd rather not drive, there's hourly rail service from Waterloo to Salisbury (90 minutes each way, $43). From there, a 10-mile taxi ride to Stonehenge costs roughly $30; the bus (route 3) is $11. You made it Visiting hours are longest in the late spring and summer (9 a.m. to 6 p.m. or 7 p.m.) and general access costs $10. Stonehenge consists of a number of ditches, banks, and stones arranged in concentric circles. Ropes went up around the inner circle in 1978, keeping visitors about 10 feet away. Splurge on a helicopter tour and you'll also get spectacular views of Old Sarum Castle and Salisbury Cathedral, a medieval jewel (WesseXplore, 011-44/172-232-6304, dmac.co.uk/wessexplore, half hour from $150). Stonehenge, which draws 850,000 visitors annually from around the world, is the centerpiece of a Wiltshire landscape studded with archaeological finds documenting 10,000 years of human history. The remains of Durrington Walls, Vespasian's Camp, the 1.8-mile-long parallel banks of the Cursus, as well as some 350 Neolithic and Bronze Age burial mounds are among the attractions. Don't miss Avebury, 25 miles from Stonehenge. It has its own group of impressive earthworks and megalithic monuments. In fact, the entire town--pub and all--sits within an ancient stone circle. Who knew? A $500 million refurbishment of Stonehenge is currently under way, including a new visitors center slated to open in 2006. (Check out the progress of architectural firm Denton Corker Marshall's eco-fabulous building and its state-of-the-art exhibitions at thestonehengeproject.org.) But the development isn't without controversy. Although no one is lobbying for a return to the days when tourists could rent hammers from a nearby blacksmith to chip off a souvenir, many weekend pagans and modern druids are upset about restricted access to the site. They're somewhat mollified by the Stone Circle Access policy, which allows small groups of people to enter the inner circle before or after regular visiting hours ($22). Permission is required in advance but, depending on the season, can be granted quickly. For dates, times, and an application (which asks that you "please give full details of ceremony proposed and equipment to be used"), call 011-44/198-062-6267 or log on to english-heritage.org.uk/stonehenge. Victoria Falls Over a mile wide, the falls spew up to 144 million gallons of water per minute. And the plume of spray is visible 30 miles away. The roaring Zambezi River plummets from a dry savanna plateau 350 feet into Batoka Gorge, a lush, palm-packed ravine that forms a natural border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. Getting there Flights to Livingstone International Airport in Zambia (the gateway for Victoria Falls) are only available from Johannesburg, South Africa; British Airways flies thrice weekly (from $290 round trip), and Nationwide Airlines operates daily service (from $190 round trip). 2Afrika (2afrika.com) has a package priced from $465 that includes air from Jo'burg, two nights with breakfasts at the Zambezi Sun (where rooms are usually more than $200), unlimited entrance to view the falls, and a half-day cruise on the Zambezi River aboard the African Queen, a triple-decker catamaran. Another popular option is to combine a safari at the Chobe or Okavango game regions in Botswana, or the Luangwa or Kafue reserves in Zambia, with a day trip to Victoria Falls. Ask at your game lodge for a guide/driver who knows the roads and border protocol (about $100 per person). You Made It The entrance fee at Victoria Falls National Park starts at $15. Bring a change of shirt in case of spontaneous rainfall or a windblown blast of waterfall spray. The steep paths and metal bridges are slippery, so wear shoes with good treads. Don't be afraid of the baboons throughout the park--they're tame--but do keep any food hidden while on park paths unless you seek a very close encounter. For excitement, the bungee jump off of the Victoria Falls Bridge offers 340 feet of free fall (Zambezi Safari & Travel Co., zambezi.co.uk, single jump $75, tandem $105); or go white-water rafting--choose the Low Water option, which offers the best glimpses of the falls--on the grade V Batoka Rapids (Safari Par Excellence, safpar.com, full-day trip from $95). For something more civilized, take afternoon tea on the veranda at the Royal Livingstone Hotel (from $16), a short walk from the park entrance. Who knew? If you hire a driver, make sure he has third-party insurance--you're not allowed to cross the borders without it. Inspect his credentials closely; expired licenses can cause hours of delays and inflate the cost of the trip. Always carry U.S. dollars--they're widely accepted and preferred--but beware of scams. If you secured a visa prior to arrival (capitolvisa.com/tourist/zambia.htm), you shouldn't have to pay anything at the borders. If you're buying a visa on the spot, it should cost no more than $40. Galápagos Islands Each of the 13 major islands is a unique habitat overflowing with creatures that evolved independently--and spectacularly. Charles Darwin didn't discover the Galápagos, a volcanic archipelago 600 miles west of Ecuador, but when he honed his evolutionary theory after an 1835 visit, he gave the world the insight necessary to appreciate it. Getting there All-inclusive guided cruises are the way to go, but packages booked from home tend to be overpriced ($4,000 without airfare is common). G.A.P Adventures, a trustworthy operator based in Toronto, runs an eight-day trip that includes meals, air from Quito to the islands, a cabin aboard a 16-passenger ship, and two nights in a Quito hotel for $1,395 (800/465-5600, gapadventures.com). You'll find even lower prices by booking last-minute at one of the travel agents in Quito's New Town (fly to Quito from Miami for about $400 on American Airlines). In January, Safari Tours (Foch E5-39 at Av. Juan Leon Mera, 011-593/2-255-2505, safari.com.ec) sold weeklong trips on the Sulidae for $560, while American dealers charged up to $1,089 for the same cruise. If you're worried about your boat, do some research at the South American Explorers club in Quito (samexplo.org). The $50 membership grants access to a library full of honest reviews. With the cruise squared away, fly to the Galápagos on Tame for $389 round trip (tame.com.ec). Cruise prices don't cover the $100 entry fee (cash only; $20 bills work best). You made it The most popular and well-rounded cruise itineraries take in the eastern and southern islands, with chances to spot blue-footed boobies and red-throated frigate birds on North Seymour, as well as the waved albatross--which has an eight-foot wingspan--on Española. To ensure that your guide speaks English, check that he or she is registered as a "naturalist II" or higher. Bring your own mask, snorkel, and wet suit, too--the islands' animal show extends below the waterline, and most boats' loaner sets are in ragged shape. Sea lions are everywhere, and they love it when people swim in the surf with them. Don't forget to bring some extra cash ($50 or so) to tip your crew and guide at the end of the journey. Who knew? "The young tortoises make excellent soup," Darwin wrote. Nowadays, dining on the locals is frowned upon--as is even touching them. Many of the animals will let you get within arm's length, but don't make contact. Guides have the power to throw you off the islands. Tour de France Cheered on by crazed fans, rail-thin gladiators race for 2,000 miles up steep mountain roads and through pristine countrysides. It's France's favorite summer pastime: a three-week trek that snakes through the heart of the country every July. While six-time Tour champion Lance Armstrong has yet to decide whether he'll chase another victory this year, his much-heralded success has turned Americans on to the spectacle that has riveted Europeans for decades. Getting there Scores of bike-touring companies sell ride-and-watch packages, most quite expensive--a seven-day trip from VéloSport Vacations costs $4,395 (800/988-9833, velovacations.com). With prices like that, many spectators prefer to go the independent route. After all, the Tour de France is free. There are no tickets, no stadiums, no grandstands. The best way to follow the Tour's hopscotch route is by car. Try Auto Europe (autoeurope.com) or Kemwel (kemwel.com), which does short-term leases that can be cheaper than renting--a brand-new Peugeot with insurance starts at $740 for 17 days. You made it The Tour changes course each year, so check the route (letour.fr) and plot a plan of attack. It's too exhausting to try to watch all 21 stages. Instead, pick a few key spots and soak up the atmosphere of the race. During one of the longer, flat stages that dominate the first week of the 2005 Tour, follow the locals to any number of roadside cafés and sip a chilled Côtes du Rhône while you wait for the racers to roar past. There are seven mountain stages this year; summit finishes at Courchevel on July 12 and at Saint-Lary Soulan on July 17 will best capture the Tour's passion. Arrive early and stake out a spot on a twisting switchback or a hilltop with sweeping views of the road. Or cycle the race route yourself; you're allowed to ride on the road up to 90 minutes before the pros arrive. There's no charge on international flights for toting a bike, though it'll count as a checked bag. Or rent a bike locally for around $30 a day. With the Tour entourage topping 4,000 racers, journalists, and officials, hotels fill up early. Check the two- and three-star family-run hotels in the Logis de France network for doubles starting at $65 (logis-de-france.fr/uk). One hotel we can specifically recommend: Le Coin Fleuri, which is near stage 12 at Digne-les-Bains and has a large garden that's perfect for a relaxing déjeuner (011-33/492-310-451, from $52). Who Knew? Held since 1903, the race is now the world's largest annual sporting event. Last year's was watched--in person--by 15 million spectators. Sydney Opera House What is now an enduring symbol of the Harbour City was inspired by both Mayan temples and the tiled mosques of Iran. But the Sydney Opera House is not simply a whimsical palace to be admired from afar--there are endless ways to experience the beauty of Danish architect Jørn Utzon's 1973 creation. Getting there Flights to Sydney start at $1,000 from L.A., $1,300 from New York. Package deals are often the better value--from $1,399 including air from L.A. and eight nights' hotel split between Sydney and Melbourne (Qantas Airways, 888/505-6252, qantasusa.com). The Opera House sits on Bennelong Point in Sydney Harbour and is impossible to miss. You made it To have a look from every angle, board a ferry at Circular Quay's Wharf 4 (dial 131-500 in Sydney, sydneyferries.info, from $14), or walk over to the nearby Royal Botanic Gardens (rbgsyd.gov.au, free). To actually get inside the Opera House, pay $17.50 for the standard tour (9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily, except Christmas Day and Good Friday). A two-hour backstage tour takes you to usually off-limits areas like the orchestra pit, dressing rooms, and the stage, and includes breakfast (daily at 7 a.m., $107). There are performance packages available that combine a tour with dinner and a show in one of the opera house's five theaters (from $130). For details, call 011-61/2-9250-7250 or log on to sydneyoperahouse.com. Tickets to performances are rarely discounted (from $38). If you're desperate to see a sold-out show, hang around the box office that night and pester the attendants for any returned tickets. Inside the southern shell you'll find Guillaume at Bennelong, a superb restaurant where chef Guillaume Brahimi--trained in Paris by the famed Michelin chef Joel Robuchon--creates food worthy of the setting. Expect to pay about $70 each for a three-course meal, not including drinks, or $50 for a three-course pretheater prix fixe (011-61/2-9241-1999, guillaumeatbennelong.com.au). For something more casual, head downstairs to the lower concourse and try the popular indoor/outdoor Opera Bar (011-61/2-9247-1666, operabar.com.au, entrées from $13). Or have a cocktail at the Park Hyatt's Harbour Bar, overlooking the water on the opposite side of Circular Quay (7 Hickson Rd., 011-61/2-9256-1500, sydney.park.hyatt.com, drinks from $12). Who knew? Up close, you'll notice the tiles are a pale gray rather than the brilliant white they appear to be in photos. Depending on the light, they can look soft pink, even gold. Great Wall of China Originally built to keep foreigners out, it's now the very thing that draws tourists in. An astonishing testament to human ambition, ingenuity, and xenophobia, the Great Wall looks much like the scaly tail of a dragon. It drapes the mountains in sections for 1,500 miles, from the Yellow Sea to its curiously unceremonious and abrupt conclusion in the middle of the far-west Gobi Desert. Getting there Beijing is the best gateway. Airfare starts at $700 from L.A. or San Francisco; it's $100 more from Chicago or New York. All U.S. travelers need a visa (china-embassy.org/eng, from $50). If you want a guided tour, hire one of the touts in Tiananmen Square (from $25 a day). Though it sounds sexist, always buy from a man: Those seduced by the pretty saleswomen speaking English may end up with trips guided by men who don't speak it well, whereas salesmen usually lead their own tours. It's far more fun to explore without guides, though. You can reach several sections by taxi. You made it Like aerobics, the Great Wall offers the low-impact (Badaling), the high-impact (a trek from Jinshanling to Simatai), and the extreme (Huanghua Cheng). Badaling--a reconstructed portion with guardrails and a 360-degree amphitheater showing short documentaries on the landmark--is so popular and crowded that the entry fees doubled this year to $10 during peak summer months (it's a 40-minute cab ride from Beijing, from $50 round trip). Badaling's good for tourists with little time, but those wanting to see the ancient monument in its more authentic, decayed condition should consider the winding, rocky 6.2-mile Jinshanling-to-Simatai hike (90-minute cab ride, from $100 round trip). It'll take at least five hours, but it offers breathtaking views of the vast countryside from a series of parapets. Have the taxi drop you off at Jinshanling. It's easier to get a ride back to Beijing from Simatai, which is popular because there's a cable car to lift visitors to a higher perch. (Admission $3.75 at Jinshanling, $4 at Simatai.) For an even more unusual experience, head to Huanghua Cheng with some lightweight camping gear and sleep on the wall. There's no formal entrance for this section, but taxi drivers will know how to find it. (Ask your concierge to write Huanghua out in Chinese characters, and show it to the driver. One-hour ride, from $100 round trip with the cabbie waiting overnight.) Not comfortable trying that on your own? Hire William Lindesay, who leads hikes to more obscure parts of the wall (wildwall.com, weekends from $365 including transportation and lodging). Who knew? The party line for years was that the Great Wall was one of the only man-made objects visible from space. After the Chinese sent their first astronaut, Yang Liwei, into orbit in 2003, reporters asked if that was true. "No," Yang said without hesitation, it wasn't visible. Intriguingly, many wrote with certainty that the Chinese government would force him to retract the comment. But Yang wasn't silenced, further evidence that China is changing. In fact, articles appeared in the government's English-language China Daily newspaper discussing the debunking of the myth.

    Inspiration

    Ecolodges Let You Sleep at Night with a Clean Conscience

    What you'll find in this story: ecolodges, eco-friendly travel, environmental travel, luxury lodging, international resorts You've seen those signs in hotels that ask you to reuse your bath towel to help the environment. Talk about a baby step. The truth is, tourism hurts. But with a little effort--even if it's simply staying at a place where the owners care--you can make it less painful, and even improve matters. In search of the world's best ecolodges, we conducted an informal survey, asking top travel professionals for recommendations. These 10 were named most often. They span the globe, but what they all have in common is owners who are willing to go the extra mile. The question is, are you? Australia, Binna Burra Mountain Lodge: In existence since 1933, Binna Burra is on more than 90 acres of private land within Lamington National Park, in the rain forests of southeast Queensland (a 90-minute drive from Brisbane). Despite the lack of radios and TVs, the lodge is state-of-the-art: It has its own sewage-treatment plant, composting worm beds, a UV water-filtration system, and an Environmental Education Centre with scratch-and-sniff exhibits. 011-61/7-5533-3622, binnaburralodge.com.au, from $180. Sri Lanka, Ranweli Holiday Village: You ride a paddle ferry across a lagoon to get to Ranweli, which sits on 22 acres in a coastal wetland estuary just 11 miles from Colombo, Sri Lanka's capital. Treated waste is recycled in the gardens; showers are solar-powered; materials and food are bought locally. The 84 rooms--in brick bungalows and communal buildings--sit between an Indian Ocean beach and the wetlands. Ranweli runs many ecotours, including flora walks and trips to nearby ruins. 011-94/31-227-7359, ecoclub.com/ranweli, from $106, including breakfast and dinner. Note: Due to the 2004 tsunami, tourism in Sri Lanka may take a few months to fully recover. Costa Rica, Selva Verde Lodge: Location is the highlight of the Selva Verde Lodge, which occupies a large expanse of rain forest in the country's northeast, near Braulio Carrillo National Park. Among the activities: horseback riding, river rafting on the Sarapiquí River, and bird-watching. The 21-year-old lodge has 5 villas and 40 rooms, which are elevated above the forest floor and connected by thatched walkways. Selva Verde is a two-hour drive from San José via a decently paved highway. 800/451-7111, selvaverde.com, from $114, including meals. Bolivia, Chalalan Ecolodge: Chalalan Ecolodge is deep within the 4.5-million-acre Madidi National Park. After flying from La Paz to Rurrenabaque, you take a canoe for five hours on the Tuichi River. On the edge of Lake Chalalan, the lodge recycles waste water through a biological process and uses solar energy. The indigenous Quechua-Tacana Indians are involved with parts of the operation. Most of the nine thatched-roof rooms, which sit on stilts, lack air-conditioning--but the mosquito nets are cinematic. 011-591/3-892-2419, chalalan.com, lodging, meals, boat transportation, and activities $140 per person per night. New Zealand, Awaroa Lodge: This lodge is surrounded by one of the most undisturbed regions in New Zealand: the Abel Tasman National Park, at the north end of South Island. Getting there involves a 90-minute water taxi or a 15-minute helicopter ride. Situated along wetlands, the W Hotel-style lodge is a haven for avian life, which you can enjoy from your wooden veranda or one of the outdoor fireplace areas. The lodge recycles its water, and the restaurant features hotel-grown organic vegetables. 011-64/3-528-8758, awaroalodge.co.nz, from $160. Fiji, Oarsman's Bay Lodge: Part of the Turtle Island ecolodge group, Oarsman's is on a calm beach in the remote Yasawa Islands of Fiji, near the historic village of Nacula. Stay in an individual beachside bungalow with a bathroom, porch, yard, and swaying palm trees all around, or in the 20-bed dorm for just $21 a night. Proceeds from the ecolodges help fund medical clinics. 011-679/672-2921, fijibudget.com, $127, including all meals. Egypt, Basma Hotel: Atop Aswan's highest hill, the Basma is the eco-version of a large, full-service hotel. Along with 24-hour room service, a business center, and a four-diamond restaurant, it has also been accredited with the perfect Green Globe 21 rating, which means it meets some of the highest environmental standards. Basma recycles water for landscaping and keeps energy output low. basmahotel.com, from $100. Barbados, Coconut Court Beach Hotel: At the 100-plus-room Coconut Court, the environmental program involves recycling, use of local materials in food and buildings, and water and waste management. Coconut Court has also received the Green Globe 21 award and the Best Program for the Environment award from the Barbados Hotel and Tourism Association, in part due to the hotel's participation in the Marine Education Programme. It includes taking guests on low-tide beach safaris and snorkeling trips to interact with fish and coral during controlled feeding sesions. 246/427-1655, coconut-court.com, from $125. England, Cumbria House: On the face of it, this Lake District B&B looks like any other cozy British inn: There's a library with a fireplace, and breakfasts are served in a room overlooking the dells. But underneath beats the heart of an ecolodge--low-flow toilets, an insulated hot-water system, and low-wattage lights. A portion of your bill goes to a local conservation program, and owners even give a 5 percent discount to guests who arrive by foot, bike, or public transport. 011-44/17-6877-3171, cumbriahouse.co.uk, from $86. Canada, Aurum Lodge: Located in Nordegg, Alberta, Aurum Lodge was built almost entirely using recycled materials. Additionally, 60 percent of the windows face south, with roof overhangs providing shade in summer and solar warmth in winter, and the owners work to control erosion and generate power via windmills and solar panels. On top of that, up to 4 percent of the gross receipts are donated to a variety of environmental causes. The main lodge has six bedrooms, and there are also three self-contained units. 403/721-2117, aurumlodge.com, from $90. How to find one you can trust Check with the eco-experts: In 1993, a nonprofit called Green Globe (greenglobe.org) was launched by the World Travel & Tourism Council, and it's becoming the main certification program for ecotourism. Another resource, ecoclub.com, maintains a database of ecolodgings in 26 countries. And for $26 a year, Ecoclub can get you a discount of 5 percent to 30 percent off stays at ecolodges worldwide. Question surcharges: No hotel needs to charge more to make up for being ecologically responsible. Some practices, such as solar energy, may incur high up-front costs, but most green policies actually help establishments save money in the long run. Encourage goodwill: Make sure that what goes around comes back to the community. Ask if the ecolodge contributes to the area's economy by buying regional materials. The finest will also promote efforts to help locals protect their environment and culture.

    Do You Really Need the Rock-climbing Wall?

    This spring marks the first voyage of EasyCruise, the new cruise line by Stelios Haji-Ioannou, the "serial entrepreneur" who started European low-fare airline EasyJet (and 14 other EasyCompanies, including EasyPizza and EasyCinema). Simply put, Stelios--the industry knows him by his first name--wants to reinvent the cruise business. Originally built for the defunct Renaissance cruise line, the ship will be hop-on/hop-off, with its 86 cabins booked in two-night blocks, not for particular voyages. The atmosphere is very bare bones, with none of the razzle-dazzle that has become the norm. The cabins have the same feel as at the upcoming EasyHotel in London--they're an efficient 90 square feet, with a double bed, shower area, sink, and lavatory. There's housekeeping service, but only if you're willing to pay a surcharge. Conspicuously missing are the extras found on traditional ships--casinos, rock-climbing walls, floor shows--although there will be a pay-by-the-meal café, sports bar, and tapas bar. Instead of emphasizing the shipboard experience, Stelios is making the ports the main attraction. It's part of his strategy to attract a younger demographic--commitmentphobes in their 20s and 30s who might be leery of a weeklong cruise. Sailing will happen in the early morning for six hours or less, so that the passengers can go on land, have a night of fun, then sleep it off in their cabins. Over lunch recently, I told Stelios it sounded like a party boat, and that I hoped the walls were thick. If not, maybe EasyCruise should give earplugs as a turndown service instead of mints. He laughed. "They could be orange!" he said. (As the photos show, orange is the trademark EasyColor.) Nightly rates begin at $55 per person; the earlier you book, the lower the rate. The ship is on its way to the Mediterranean from Singapore, where it was refitted, and will arrive in late April to spend the summer bopping around such chic destinations as Nice, Saint-Tropez, and Monte Carlo. For info, see easycruise.com.

    It's Time to Get Off the Sidelines

    Accessible travel, like travel in general, has expanded to include people of all means. The mobility-impaired traveler, once ignored, is now no minor niche: The Society for Accessible Travel & Hospitality estimates its market spent $13.6 billion on vacations in 2002 alone. From South African safaris to diving vacations in the Caribbean, rates for disabled adventurers finally compare favorably to mainstream prices. Safaris in South Africa Outfitted with oversize A-frame tents and a special Mercedes truck with hydraulic lifts, Epic Enabled--an offshoot of Epic Expeditions, a player in overland treks since 1992--takes an eight-day tour, beginning in Johannesburg, that spends three days at Kruger National Park, one of the world's best state-owned safari grounds. Other highlights include two days at a private game reserve (where passengers get to pet a cheetah), a visit to a local village, and a stop at Blyde River Canyon, with its inspirational vistas. The trip departs once a month. Contact: Epic Enabled, 011/27/21-782-9575, epic-enabled.com/, from $965 for trek safaris. Sailing tall ships Wide decks, signs in Braille, and a speaking compass are just some of the amenities Jubilee Sailing Trust provides on its specially designed tall ships, which even enable chair-bound passengers to ascend the masts for heart-thumping views. Promoting integration between physically disabled and able-bodied vacationers, JST's mixed-ability crew sails to a variety of Caribbean, U.S., and European destinations. Think Halifax; Antigua; Newport, R.I.; and the Azores. Voyage lengths vary from four days to several weeks. Contact: Jubilee Sailing Trust, 011-44/23-8044-9108, jst.org.uk/, from $880 for tall ship adventures. Canoeing the Everglades Wilderness Inquiry has conducted integrated active vacations since 1978. One of its most popular is a canoeing excursion through the Florida Everglades' Ten Thousand Islands, a maze of vegetation where freshwater and saltwater meet. The six-day trip includes guides, food, tent lodging, and specialized equipment for people of all abilities, such as non-paddling "sling seats." There are three 2004 departures (Mar 2, 13, and 22), but it runs annually. Contact: Wilderness Inquiry, 612/676-9400, wildernessinquiry.org/, $745 for six-day paddline trips, $680 for six days hikes. Skiing Colorado Integrated Outdoor Adventures, by the nonprofit Colorado Discover Ability (CDA), are inexpensive ski lessons for people ranging from amputees to those with spinal injuries. Based in western Colorado's Powderhorn Resort, it uses an inventory of adaptive equipment including four-track, three-track, and mono-skis. It also provides lift tickets and private instructors. Outside of ski season, CDA runs kayaking trips on Lake Powell and rafting trips down the Colorado River. Contact: Colorado Discover Ability's Integrated Outdoor Adventures, 970/268-5700 X2307, cdaioa.com/, skiing $25-$50. Hiking in Hawaii Wilderness Inquiry conducts walks through Hawaii Volcanoes National Park on the Big Island and, among other places, the Kilauea Iki caldera trail, the Mauna Ulu crater rim, and the Hapu`u fern forest. Designed to include the blind, deaf, and those with developmental concerns, the seven-day trip includes specialized guiding, beach camping, and meals. This year, it departs Mar 21 and 28. Contact: See above (Everglades). Scuba in Bonaire With 23 years of experience certifying both able-bodied instructors and disabled divers, Handicapped Scuba Association International brings anyone--even quadriplegics--to the reefs of Bonaire, 50 miles off the Venezuelan coast. For $1,100 (a respectable price for any diving package), vacationers get a seven-night stay at the Flamingo Beach Resort (part of the Divi chain), three guided boat dives a day, unlimited shore diving, round-trip airport transfers, and breakfasts and lunches. Contact: Handicapped Scuba Association International, 949/498-4540, hsascuba.com/, $1100 for weeklong Bonaire trip.