Swap Homes and Stay for Free

Name: Budget Travel LLC
Price range: $

By Arthur Frommer

June 4, 2005

We introduce you to this fabulously inexpensive, highly personal form of travel

It's called a "Vacation Exchange," and it's not the same as the "Hospitality Exchange" we've discussed elsewhere in this section on accommodations. On the latter, you stay as a guest in someone's home, while they remain in residence; you sleep in a spare room or on a cot; you meet your hosts, have breakfast with them, often socialize with them. And you are more or less expected (but not required) to provide hospitality in your own home or apartment at some later date, maybe (but not necessarily) to the actual person who hosted you.

By contrast, a "Vacation Exchange" involves a simultaneous swap or exchange of apartments or homes; you stay in their home or apartment while they stay in yours, all during the identical period of your respective vacations. You rarely meet the person whose home or apartment you're using, because you've passed them in mid-air, so to speak, when you began your vacation. On that carefully scheduled date, you flew to their home city, while they flew to yours.

The vacation exchange happens more frequently than the hospitality exchange, supporting a number of fairly large exchange organizations. Why? Because, when all is said and done, it's the single most logical, reasonable, sensible, indeed brilliant, method of vacationing in travel today. Instead of leaving your home or apartment empty and unused during the time of your vacation, you derive a benefit from it, you treat it as an asset. You "trade it" temporarily for an overseas home or apartment of equivalent quality, eliminating all costs of lodgings from your vacation budget.

You trade other assets, as well, like your friends. You give to your exchangee the names of friends who might be willing to have them over for a drink, or come to their aid in case of problems. They do the same for you in their city. Often you permit them to use your car while you're away, in exchange for them permitting you to use their car while you stay in their home or apartment. Through an exchange of correspondence, you make the necessary arrangements--sometimes you tell them that the key will be found under the flower pot at the front door, or you mail them an extra set of keys--and on the appointed day, you set off to claim your exchange.

As mentioned before, they fly to your home in the U.S., while you fly to theirs in Barcelona, the south of France, London, Bangkok, wherever. Neither of you has a penny of accommodations expenses. But more important, you live like a resident, not a tourist, in the city you've chosen. You enjoy an incomparable experience, utterly unavailable to the standard tourist. In fact, you're no longer a tourist at all, but a traveler.

I've been on two vacation exchanges myself, have spoken with dozens of people who have also done so, and frankly, I've never heard a critical word about the experience, nor enjoyed anything other than an excellent stay myself. And bear in mind: each house or apartment serves as a "hostage" for the proper maintenance and upkeep of the other; you take awfully good care of the apartment or home in which you're staying, because you're so very anxious that they're exhibiting a similar attitude towards yours.

Some smart travelers find vacation exchanges on their own; they arrange to have a friend overseas post a notice for them on various bulletin boards, or simply ask them to spread the word. Most do it through a vacation exchange service or club, of which at least a half-dozen are active at any one time.

The vacation exchange clubs charge you a fee for including a notice--a one-paragraph description of your home or apartment, perhaps a photo of it, an indication of when you'd like to take your vacation and thus engage in an exchange--in a directory containing many hundreds of such notices, which is then sent to members around the world. All through the cold winter months, you sit at home turning the pages of the directory and dreaming about where you'd like to stay in spring, summer or fall, and when you've spotted a likely candidate, you write to them and propose a vacation exchange. The arrangements are then made through an exchange of correspondence.

Four major exchange clubs

Here are several of the major vacation exchange clubs, along with a brief overview of their conditions, prices and policies.

Homelink (2937 NW 9th Terrace, Wilton Manors, FL 33311, tel. 800/638-3841, Email: homelinkus@earthlink.net; Web: swapnow.com or homelink.org) is the direct successor to the original vacation exchange club, and the largest organization of its kind in the world. There are two membership options: full members, who receive three directories each year and also have access to online listings, pay $115 a year; online-only members pay $75 a year. Specialty: Europe (about two-thirds of its members). Average length of each exchange: one month. If you'd like a free "information pack" before committing, simply call the above number and leave your name and address on the firm's answering machine. Homelink is a big one, and seems the picture of efficiency in dealing with its members.

Intervac U.S. (30 Corte San Fernando, Tiburon, CA, 94920, tel. 800/756-HOME or 415/435-3497, Web: intervacus.com), of which Paul Jaffe is founder and co-owner. Members have a myriad of options for joining, starting at $68 for Web members who can access Web-only text and photos, or $128 for book directories and full Web access. Seniors receive $6 off if receiving the book directory of listings. Two catalogue directories are sent out each year, in April and December. Each year, Intervac has about 10,000 offers listed, in over 50 countries. And Mrs. Horne is not just a matchmaker for house traders. She is also an avid home exchanger, having swapped homes more than a dozen times in Europe alone.

Home Exchange (P.O. Box 787, Hermosa Beach, CA 90254, 800/877-8723; Web: homeexchange.com; Email: Ed@homeexchange.com), merged with Trading Homes International, upping its total number of listings to well over 7,000 each year, all over the globe (about 50 percent are in the US). Membership prices for this Web-only operation are $49.95 for one year, or $99.95 for three years. Ed Kushins, President of Trading Homes International who is still active in the new company, says the Home Exchange site is one of the easiest Internet portals available for home exchanges, and prides itself on its customer service.

The Invented City (41 Sutter Street, Suite 1090, San Francisco, CA 94104, tel. 800/788-CITY or 415/846-7588, Web: invented-city.com) is a well established firm started in 1991 by Glenn London, who holds an M.A. in library science. "I felt I could create a more enjoyable, creative service, one which makes the identification of compatible homes easy and fun." His charge: $50 a year (Annual renewal fee is $25 thereafter), for which you appear in its web directory (which includes photos of members homes and is updated daily). Currently, the site has over 2,000 listings, most strongly represented in Canada and the United States, then Britain, Australia, and France.

But is it safe? Reliable?

How can you know that the home or apartment you''l be receiving will be the equivalent of yours? How can you protect yourself against the urge to exaggerate the accommodation by the foreign residents who wilI be describing their homes or apartments in the directories of the vacation exchange organizations? Some of these questions are answered by Judy Saavedra of Home Exchange:

"The people who do receive a mis-described home of poor quality are those who haven't done their homework. It's important to engage in more than one exchange of correspondence, even phone up the person overseas to confirm the exact nature of their home or apartment, and their own personal background, their occupation and the like. You request photos; you may even request a video of the home in question, and present them with a video of yours. About half the people who engage in vacation exchanges have done so before; therefore, ask them for the names, addresses and numbers of other Americans who have stayed in their homes, so that you can seek an endorsement from them. Ask them, perhaps, to supply you with other references. By putting the proper questions, by learning more about the exchangee than you would discover from their short listing in the directory, you can almost always assure yourself that you are exchanging with a reliable person."

Ms. Saavedra states that she rarely receives complaints from her club members; that the overwhelming majority of vacation exchanges are conducted to the entire satisfaction of both parties. And meantime, this mode of travel remains, in my firm opinion, the most sensible, logical, and effective means of enjoying a rewarding (and nearly-cost-free) vacation.

Plan Your Next Getaway

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Insiders' Guide to Lake Superior

For much of the way around massive Lake Superior, the highway edges so closely-and so continuously-to the shoreline that I could almost imagine I was piloting a high-powered speedboat rather than my mundane little rental car. I dashed in and out of hidden coves, anchored (well, parked) at sunny beaches, splashed through a sudden, blinding rainsquall, and reveled hour after hour in the beauty of the seascapes in front of me. Could a sailor in a real boat have had it much better? If you love the sea, a five-day, 1,400-mile circle drive around Superior-the largest body of clean, fresh water in the world-is a terrific and inexpensive way to indulge that fancy. Good lodging and dining come at budget prices, especially along the Canadian side of the lake. I stayed in a small, beautifully maintained motel with a view in the village of Wawa, Ontario, for just CAD$62 (US$42, tax included). A savory dinner at the nearby Cedar Hof Dining Lounge, one of the province's most popular restaurants, set me back an easy CAD$15.95 (US$10.85). Beyond this, much of what you will want to see or do is free, or almost so. I was surprised and, yes, dazzled by the abundance of spectacular waterfalls dotting the way. Most are located in state or provincial parks, where the entrance fees are nominal. Countless rivers cascade from high ridges just before they empty into the lake. I popped in and out of my car again and again to catch the never-ending show. In Minnesota, I paid $4 (per car) for an all-day pass to a half-dozen waterfall parks. This is a drive into wilderness country, a winding route through the still mostly pristine land of the deep North Woods. The famed Voyageurs-the fur-trading canoe men who passed this way in the late eighteenth century-might feel quite at home, even today. If you circle the lake counterclockwise, as I did, the lake on your left seems as wide and forbidding as the ocean. On the right, thick evergreen forests, both awesome and intimidating, march in unbroken ranks to the distant horizon. For miles, nothing seems changed from the past except the highway ahead and all those big, yellow road signs warning you to be alert to moose in your path. I never did see one. Not surprisingly, the lakeside towns cater year-round to outdoorsy folks. In summer, take gear to hike, fish, bicycle, canoe, and kayak. Some may be brave enough to plunge briefly into the frigid waters of Superior. (I made it in up to my knees.) But many smaller lakes just off the highway promise sandy beaches and warmer swimming. Winter brings the snowmobile crowd and cross-country skiers. This is a land, too, of fascinating tales. Maritime museums and historic lighthouses tell the sometimes tragic story of Great Lakes shipping; hundreds of ships have gone down in these vast waters. Some wrecks have never been found. At Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, watch freighters navigate the historic Soo Locks linking Lakes Superior and Huron. Tour the rebuilt fort of the early Voyageurs at Minnesota's Grand Portage National Monument. The Great Lakes Aquarium in Duluth puts the spotlight on giant lake sturgeon and other Great Lakes species. None of these places will dent your budget. And, oh, yes, once or twice a day a Las Vegas-style casino will tempt you inside. I'd like sudden wealth, too-but keeping to a tight budget, I set a limit of $20 total, which I lost, a few quarters at a time. It's my way of having a bit of gaming fun without regrets. Getting started Since this is a circle drive, start almost anywhere and loop back again. I began in Sault Ste. Marie, because I got what I thought was a bargain airfare from my hometown. But I was socked with a heavy car-rental bill because, after paying for a nonrefundable ticket, I learned that both rental agencies at the airport limited me to 800 free miles, and I drove more than 1,100. Dumb planning on my part. Subsequently, my Internet research suggested Minneapolis as a starting point, offering a combination of good airfares and car rentals. The drawback is that Minneapolis is 150 miles from Lake Superior in Duluth. You add 300 miles round trip to the distance I covered. The Minneapolis-St. Paul airport is served by four discount airlines: AirTran Airways, America West Airlines, American Trans Air, and Frontier Airlines. When I checked, four car-rental agencies were offering a week's compact rental with unlimited miles for about $160. They were Budget (800/527-0700), $153; Enterprise (800/736-8222), $150; Alamo (800/327-9633), $159; and Payless (800/729-5377), $169. I paid $72 for gas. I've routed this drive counterclockwise. From Duluth east to Sault Ste. Marie, lake views are somewhat limited because no road clings continuously to the shoreline. But from Sault Ste. Marie north and west back to Duluth-a distance of about 700 miles-you're rarely out of sight of the lake. The trip may start off slowly, but it ends with a bang. To some, the daily distances might seem somewhat long. But mostly the drive covers lightly traveled roads through little-populated areas. Before you go, order a free copy of the 77-page Lake Superior Circle Tour Adventure Guide, which describes things to see and do. Contact any of the tourism offices mentioned below or pick up a copy at the first information center you come to. On the road Day one Minneapolis to Duluth, 150 miles. Catch an early flight to Minneapolis to give you time in the afternoon to explore Duluth's exciting Lake Superior waterfront. Duluth is the leading Great Lakes port-about 1,000 lake and ocean vessels call here annually-and one of the busiest in the country. Make your first stop the Lake Superior Maritime Visitor Center, a free U.S. Army Corps of Engineers facility at Canal Park in downtown Duluth. It provides an excellent introduction to shipping lore. You might catch a freighter sailing into port; the museum posts an updated schedule of expected arrivals and departures. Most ships enter empty and depart full. I was particularly interested in a large, illuminated map that helped me identify the harbor's major terminals. The Midwest Energy Terminal loads coal brought by train from Montana onto carriers supplying electricity-generating plants in the lower Great Lakes. Iron and coal are the two most important cargoes. There are also six grain elevators capable of holding 55 million bushels. Elsewhere in Canal Park, step aboard the William A. Irvin (adults, $6.75), a former iron ore and coal carrier turned museum ship, for a 60-minute escorted tour. Save an hour for another Canal Park attraction, the Great Lakes Aquarium & Freshwater Discovery Center ($8.95). Here I learned that Superior is about 350 miles long, 160 miles wide, and holds 3 quadrillion gallons of water. I suppose the huge, whiskered lake sturgeon-almost as big as sharks-feel a bit cramped, even in the aquarium's giant, 103,000-gallon tank. And while at Canal Park, enjoy dinner at one of its busy restaurants. Little Angie's Cantina & Grill offers a nice roasted-chicken enchilada plate ($8.99), served outside on the lake-view deck. Or walk uphill to the Radisson Hotel, which features a revolving rooftop restaurant, called JJ Astor, with sweeping harbor views. With the early-bird special (4:30 p.m. to 6 p.m., Sunday through Thursday), every entree is $7.95. Details From Minneapolis, take I-35 north, exiting at Canal Park. Stay just off I-35 at the 99-room Motel 6 (218/723-1123), $45 weekdays/$53 weekends; or the 59-room Super 8 (218/628-2241), $82 weekdays/$91 weekends. For dining, see above. Information: 800/4-DULUTH, www.visitduluth.com. A mini-cruise Day two Duluth via Apostle Islands National Lakeshore in Bayfield, Wisconsin, to Marquette, Michigan, 300 miles. Get an early start to catch a budget-priced mini-cruise at Apostle Islands. En route, the road scrambles alongside Superior; stretch your legs in the little port towns of Port Wing, Herbster, and Cornucopia. Outside Bayfield, the road passes acres of strawberry patches. Buy a pint for snacking. Apostle Islands is a cluster of 21 mostly unpopulated islands just offshore from Bayfield, a pretty town draped gracefully across a forested hillside. One way to see the islands is by tour boat; the three-hour "grand tour" (10 a.m. to 1 p.m.) costs $39.95. Or save by taking the 20-minute ferry crossing ($8 round trip) to Madeline Island, the easiest of the Apostles to reach. The ferry docks at La Point, a tiny village of shops and caf,s. The ride is short, but it's your chance to get on the water cheaply. After crossing into Michigan, look for Van Riper State Park ($4 per car), just east of the town of Michigamme. Break up the drive here with a swim at the park's fine sand beach. No, the lake's not Superior, but it's a lot warmer. In Marquette, head for the Marquette Maritime Museum ($5) overlooking Superior to learn more about legendary shipwrecks, such as the freighter Henry B. Smith, which vanished in 1913. Then join the museum's escorted tour of the still-operating Marquette Harbor Lighthouse. Details From Duluth, take I-535 east into Wisconsin, linking to U.S. 53 and U.S. 2 east. After 15 miles, take State 13 north and east to Bayfield and Apostle Islands. Continue on Route 13 until it rejoins U.S. 2. Head east on U.S. 2 to Wakefield, Michigan, picking up State 28 into Marquette. Stay at the 41-room Brentwood Motor Inn Budget Host (800/999-7055), $48; the 52-room Value Host Motor Inn (800/929-5996), $55; or the 80-room Super 8 Motel (906/228-8100), $67. For seaport flavor, try the Portside Inn in downtown Marquette; the chicken quesadilla plate is $10.95. Information: 800/544-4321, www.marquettecountry.org. On to Canada Day three Marquette via Sault Ste. Marie to Wawa, Ontario, 315 miles. About 40 miles down the road, the little port city of Munising is the departure point for a two-and-a-half-hour cruise off Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (10 a.m., $25). The park is named for a 15-mile-long wall of brightly hued shoreline rock, which centuries of harsh Great Lakes weather has carved into arches, spires, and other odd shapes. Or admire good land-based views of the cliffs from Miners Castle, a large rock formation reached by car. No entrance fee here. If you missed touring the museum ship in Duluth, a second chance awaits aboard the Museum Ship Valley Camp ($8) in Sault Ste. Marie. An ore carrier built in 1917, it's now open for self-guided tours. Climb to the pilothouse to get a captain's view of the huge vessel. Five blocks east, visit the Soo Locks Visitor Center, a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers facility, where you might see a freighter bound up-lake or down. The locks can average about 16 ships a day. A small museum describes how they work. Cross the International Bridge into Canada for the return drive west along Superior's wild North Shore. For two days, the lake rarely will be out of view. Ahead is a ruggedly majestic realm of rocky coves, pebbled beaches, high cliffs, countless small lakes, endless miles of tall firs, and Superior's sparkling blue waters. At Lake Superior Provincial Park, south of Wawa, stop at Agawa Rock ($4 per car). A short, rough trail descends steeply to the rock, a towering boulder at water's edge. A historic site, it bears many red-ocher paintings made by ancient Ojibwa Indians (as the Chippewas are known in Canada). But beware: The wave-washed viewing ledge can be slippery. Three long ropes have been installed so that those who tumble from the ledge into the lake can pull themselves back up the steep side. In Wawa, I got a chuckle out of a trio of giant geese, emblematic sculptures standing as tall as a house. In the Ojibwa language, Wawa means "land of the goose." At day's end, relax with a swim in lovely Wawa Lake in the heart of town. No charge. Details From Marquette, continue east on State 28 to I-75 north into Sault Ste. Marie. Cross the International Bridge and follow the signs to Canada 17 west (the Trans-Canada Highway) to Wawa. Stay just south of Wawa at the 14-room Mystic Isle Motel (800/667-5895), CAD$62/US$42; or in Wawa at the 32-room Big Bird Inn (705/856-2342), CAD$54/US$37; or the 18-room Algoma Motel (705/856-7010), CAD$62/US$42. Dine at the renowned Cedar Hof Dining Lounge, specializing in German dishes. Enjoy the Wiener schnitzel plate with homemade spaetzle, CAD$15.95/US$10.85. Information: 800/367-9292, ext. 260, www.wawa.cc. Into the North Woods Day four Wawa to Thunder Bay, 300 miles. A great day for sailing, even behind the wheel of a rented car. Skirt broad bays, crest lofty ridges, and plunge into the awesome North Woods. This leg ranks as one of the finest water-view drives in the world. At Terrace Bay, stretch your legs on the short hike to Aguasabon Falls, where a slender stream cascades over a steep cliff into a sheer-walled canyon. At Rainbow Falls Provincial Park, hike through dense woods to a pair of waterfalls splashing down a narrow, rocky channel. Elsewhere in the park, swim in the warm (sort of) water of Whitesand Lake. At Ouimet Canyon Provincial Park (CAD$1/US66> per person), take the one-mile loop trail to a viewing platform overlooking the impressively deep chasm. Details From Wawa, stick to Canada 17 all the way. Stay in Thunder Bay at the 50-room Super 8 (807/344-2612), CAD$75/US$51; or the 60-room Best Western Crossroads Motor Inn (807/577-4241), CAD$95/US$65. Dine elegantly at the Timbers at the Valhalla Inn. The evening buffet is CAD$14.95/US$10.15. The maple-glazed pork chop entr,e, ... la carte, CAD$20/US$13.60. Information: 800/667-8386, www.visitthunderbay.com. Waterfall way Day five Thunder Bay via Duluth to Minneapolis, 350 miles. For the first 200 miles, the road hugs the lake. But here it is overshadowed by the many roadside waterfalls. The first is just inside the U.S. border at Grand Portage State Park. An easy, ten-minute walk leads to the thundering High Falls of the Pigeon River. The one-day fee ($4 per car) is good for all Minnesota state parks. At nearby Grand Portage National Monument ($3), pause briefly for a history lesson. In 1784, this protected bay became the site of a major fur-trading post. Each spring until 1803, Montreal fur buyers journeyed here in canoes paddled by a backwoods navy of Great Lakes Voyageurs. They rendezvoused with the traders, who bought furs from the Indians. To reach the fort, the traders had to portage the last eight miles. A stockade fence, the Great Hall, kitchen, and other structures have been rebuilt, and costumed interpreters re-create frontier life. I spent an interesting half hour with Erik Simula, a birch-bark-canoe maker in buckskin, who introduced me to the fine art of harvesting and thrashing Minnesota wild rice. Afterward, stop at Judge C. R. Magney State Park, where a mighty waterfall disappears into the open mouth of Devil's Kettle, a pot-like rock formation. Turn in again at Cascade River and Temperance River State Parks for more waterfall hikes. At Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, climb the stairs of a restored lighthouse. At Gooseberry Falls State Park, scramble on the rocks at the foot of yet another grand tumble of water. Back in Duluth, celebrate the end of the drive with a final Superior view. And then head for Minneapolis and home. Details From Thunder Bay, take Route 61 south, connecting at the U.S. border to Minnesota 61 south. In Duluth, pick up I-35 south to Minneapolis.

America's Scenic Byways

One of my favorite travel books is William Least Heat Moon's Blue Highways, a journey through the heart and soul of America in a rickety old van. The title comes from Least Heat Moon's map, which used a blue line to indicate any road that was not an interstate or major highway, and the author's vow to stick only to those smaller byways in his cross-country trek. The result was a portrait of the sort of small town USA many jaded city and suburb folk like myself figure must have disappeared by the 1960s. It hasn't, and after a bit of exploring you, too, will find that the road map to America's doorstep is drawn using country roads, rural routes, and scenic byways. The real America resides just down a two-lane blacktop road that winds its way through farmland and passes through the courthouse squares of countless small towns. Those four-lane highways that shoot ruler-straight across a map to link major cities pass little besides endless carbon-copy exits barnacled with identical businesses and services. What's more, the road less traveled can save you money in many small but important ways while giving you a more genuine and memorable experience while doing it. Off the beaten path and into the savings Not only do scenic byways give you the chance to see some of the prettiest corners our country has to offer, but they can also save you money while enriching your experience--the mark of a true Budget Travel experience. Scenic byways, see, get you off that interstate highway treadmill of chain fast food joints and identikit exit conglomerations of mini malls and mega gas stations that have collectively conditioned us to passively pay $1.59 for a soda and $3.50 for a cinnamon bun, and to think that $89 is a great rate for a Red Roof Inn. The back roads of America, though, are where chrome-plated diners with worn booths still charge just $3.95 for a steak, $0.35 for coffee, and $0.95 for a slice of that strawberry-rhubarb pie sitting under the plastic dome on the counter lined with locals perched atop little round stools. This is where locally-owned gas stations charge $0.50 for a can of Coke (the gas, of course, is pricey everywhere), and mom-and-pop motels--small and achingly plain, but usually clean and tidy--advertise rates of $19.95 above a neon "Vacancy" sign where the "No" bit is hardly ever lit up. THE GOVERNMENT SEAL OF APPROVAL Since 1996, the U.S. Secretary of Transportation has so-far declared 95 roads to be official "Scenic Byways" (byways.org), roadways that feature "outstanding archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic value." These officially designated Scenic Byways comprise more than 25,000 memorable miles of road, ranging from the 1,707-mile Great River Road that parallels the mighty Mississippi through Illinois, Iowa, Wisconsin, and Minnesota to the 4.5-mile Las Vegas Strip. What can you see on a scenic byway? You can trace Billy the Kid's history in New Mexico, cruise the Big Sur section of California's Pacific Coast Highway, tear through the desert of Death Valley, paddle over a 3,000-year-old underwater forest in an Oregon lake, and celebrate the Mike the Headless Chicken Days on May 16-17 in Colorado (I'm not making that up: miketheheadlesschicken.org). And, it almost goes without saying, you can get your kicks on Route 66. Indeed, in between the Tamiami Trail of Florida and the Seward Highway of Alaska, you can travel scenic byways to pay homage to such hallowed icons of Americana as the world's largest ketchup bottle in Illinois (catsupbottle.com), George Washington's bathtub in West Virginia, and the seven-foot fiberglass statue of Superman guarding the Smallville-sized town of Metropolis, Illinois. What's more, this past Tuesday the Department of Transportation authorized an additional $24 million of the Federal Highway Administration's budget to be put into preserving and promoting officially designated scenic byways in 42 states. That money will go to supporting the local grassroots organizations and byways businesses that are devoted to preserving their own stretch of scenic road. Free maps! (a.k.a.: planning a trip made easy) The Scenic Byways organization lives at byways.org/, where you can find out much more about the program and its byways. It will also send you free maps--though note that you're supposed to allow two to three weeks for delivery, and they don't have nearly the sorts of depth of travel information you might hope for. Still, the maps are a starting point, and one place to start is back at the official scenic byways Web site. In the "Search for Byways" section, you can view information route by route and peruse brief synopses of the various sights, attractions, and towns along the route (those could be longer, and definitely could be cross-linked to the individual Web sites, but again it's a start). More importantly there are long sections devoted to how each Byway qualifies in terms of those six core categories; archaeological, cultural, historic, natural, recreational, and scenic--and that's the kind of esoteric background rarely gathered together in one spot for you to explore. The site does not, unfortunately, have links to local sources of info (town visitors centers or area city CVBs), nor to lodging or dining options along the way--though for the latter, you can try the Road Food directory at roadfood.com). See you on the road! Associate Editor Reid Bramblett wrote travel guidebooks for Eyewitness, Frommer's, and the Idiot's and For Dummies series (yes, both of them) before joining the Budget Travel staff in 2002.

The Lowdown on Car Rentals

Large, worldwide chains maintain auto-rental outlets in virtually every city of size throughout the world, and also use both nationwide and worldwide computer networks--reached by dialing an 800 number to service your reservations for a car. If you can make your booking at least seven or 14 days in advance, you'll nearly always receive reduced rates that make the prices of these national car rental chains competitive with those of small, local firms. But woe to the casual tourist who simply appears at an airport Avis, Hertz, Budget or National desk without a reservation booked several days in advance; the rates for such an on-the-spot rental are almost always considerably higher, not simply overseas but in the U.S. as well. Under those circumstances, you'll do better by seeking out the smaller local firms with unfamiliar names and no airport locations below; they thrive on the last-minute booking. When it comes to shopping for car rental companies, the smart, Web-savvy traveler utilizes one or several of the Internet sites that automatically do the shopping for them. Sites such as Expedia, Orbitz, or Qixo, which may be better known for searching for cheap airfares, also have the ability to shop and find the best price for car rentals. Many of the extras, such as insurance and tax, are often not included in the prices quoted by these sites, and such charges vary from company to company, so some additional research is required before finding the best deal. Auto rental companies often advertise sales, coupons, or free upgrades on their Web sites or in the Sunday travel section of newspapers. By all means take advantage of them when they arise, but be aware of the fine print. These offers are almost always limited by location, limited in terms of availability, with sale rates subject to change. And if you think these prices include CDW, taxes, location fees or any of those other extras that can make renting cars such an exercise in frustration, we've got a lovely bridge to sell you. You will pay more than the base rates listed, so be sure to get all of the numbers before you decide where to rent. Sometimes you'll get better prices from the companies that aren't currently offering sales. It's all a crapshoot with rental cars. International renters have a host of other issues to figure before finding the best price. Overseas, the cost of gasoline is so high (it often exceeds the equivalent of $3 or $3.50 for a gallon) that you are also well advised to book the smallest car consistent with your needs, and thus minimize your use of gas. But remember that such cars usually come with small luggage compartments; if you will need a roof rack for extra baggage, be sure to order one when making your reservation--they cannot usually be obtained on the spot. Also bear in mind that in some overseas locations, you can't secure unlimited mileage with on-the-spot booking. For those countries, book ahead with an international renter (or e-mail back and have a friend do it for you) to avoid racking up expensive per-mile (or per-kilometer) fees. 1. Some tips for cutting rental costs: Avoid airline terminals: Car rental agencies at airport locations often charge "airport location fees" and security taxes that can add significantly to the cost of your rental. The same car that would cost $49 a day at the airport might run for $35 at a downtown or other location. Many off-airport rental agencies within striking distance of the terminal offer free shuttles. Stay the week: Sometimes weekly rates can be cheaper than three-day rentals, especially at the major rental agencies. Go clubbing: Frequent renter clubs, with names like "Gold Service" or "Emerald Club," are free to join and usually garner discounts of at least five percent on each rental. Programs such as Avis Wizard can save you as much as 15 percent. Some of these clubs allow you to earn points toward future free rentals, and often they get you better service. Fill'er up: Make sure you never return a rental car with less gas in the tank than when you got it. Fuel surcharges can double and triple the price per gallon you'd pay at a regular gas station. Don't trouble with double insurance: Don't duplicate insurance you already have. The car rental agencies will try to sell you insurance at an additional charge, ranging from liability (sometimes called "liability insurance supplement") to accident (aka "personal accident insurance) to policies covering personal belongings. You undoubtedly already have health insurance, and probably homeowners' and auto insurance, so you can often decline them all. The exception to this rule is when renting a car in Ireland or Italy, where the purchase of insurance is mandatory. "Just say no" to Collision Damage Waivers: Also known as Loss Damage Waivers, they'll add more than $9 a day to your rental cost, unless you sign the CDW agreement making you responsible for damage. Many, but not all, states have outlawed this liability by requiring car rental companies to pay for collision insurance. But even if your state allows it, you can avoid the hefty fees by using a credit card or bank card that covers collision. Looking on the web Breezenet bnm.com offers discounts (up to 20 percent) and savings at the major car companies, regional renters and selected "exotic" car rental agencies. Can search companies by airport location nationally and internationally. Has a section on "Last-Minute Specials" and also lists the deals available from several companies. SideStep (sidestep.com) searches the major car companies, the online bookers, and several smaller agencies for the best rate. It runs along-side other search engines for easy rate comparison. Low-cost auto rentals Outside the mainstream car rental agencies such as Hertz, Avis, Budget, Enterprise, Alamo, and National, there are smaller, lesser-known companies that offer discounted automobile rentals. The upsides to renting with such a discounter is obvious: It'll cost less money. The downsides vary. Some use older or second-hand cars. Other agencies are very small, perhaps with a single location, and services will be far less extensive than the major players (which is important should anything go wrong). But if you're willing to take the slight risk with an older car or a smaller rental company, chances are you'll pay less than at a mainstream agency (but still look at the bigger companies too, to compare). Here are some sources for low-cost auto rentals: Rent-A-Wreck (800/944-7501, rentawreck.com) is the overly apologetic moniker for the company that used to discount just older cars through much of the U.S., but that now deals in luxury sedans as well as SUVs. Rest assured its automobiles are not "wrecks" by any means (not usually anyway), and its rates often come in well under Hertz, Avis, Alamo and the like. Be aware that some states have dozens of R-A-W branch locations, while others have one or none. Car Rental Express (888/557-8188, carrentalexpress.com) is a web site that exclusively searches rates and availability for over 300 independent, locally owned car rental agencies in the United States, Canada, Europe and the Caribbean. Prices quoted on the site include all taxes and fees, and there are online coupons available for additional discounts. Daily rates are 25-30 percent less than the majors, and weekly rates are 15 percent cheaper. All agencies undergo a background check and Car Rental Express promises that 99 percent use new vehicles. AutoEurope (888/223-5555, autoeurope.com) suffers none of the downsides listed above (it is a big operation and its cars are not old), yet it often undercuts the rates of worldwide operations like Hertz and Avis. It is a top option for short-term rentals all over Europe. Renault Eurodrive (800/221-1052, renaultusa.com) is often a less expensive option for longer-term vacationers abroad, meaning people who are staying at least 17 days in Europe and who plan to take out a short-term lease. Compare with AutoEurope's rates. Dan Dooley (800/331-9301, dan-dooley.ie) is a discount rental operation for Ireland only, although it has offices outside the Emerald Isle. It offers a wide array of cars models and sizes, and all of its quote rates are in Euros. 2. Always rent the smallest car The smallest cars have the cheapest rates, and if the location doesn't have a subcompact when you arrive, they'll give you a free upgrade to the next smallest vehicle they have on the lot. The people who deliver cars to satellite locations (called shuttlers) don't like squeezing into subcompacts any more than you do, so they don't stock the lot with small cars unless they have to. In locations with very few cars, you will often--as a result--be given a full-size car for the price of a subcompact. And if they do have a subcompact, and you want a bigger car, you can always ask for an upgrade on the spot, but there's no reason not to try for the lower rate. This strategy surely won't work at a giant airport like Miami's, where there are hundreds of cars (and therefore dozens of subcompacts) on hand. But it will work in downtown locations and smaller airports with room for only a few cars. The following illustrated examples speak for themselves, and give a glimpse of the savings at a given moment in time. 3. Compare rates between downtown and airport locations Say you're arriving in St. Louis and need a car for four days. If you rent one (a subcompact, naturally) from Budget's airport location, you'll pay $51.99 a day, or a total of $207.96. But if you rent the same car from Budget's downtown location, just a few blocks from the convention center, you'll pay $39.99 a day, or a total of $159.96. And here's the best part: You get the lower rate--a savings of $48--even if you return the car to the airport. But, you may ask, doesn't it cost something to get from the airport to downtown? Yes--all of $3.50. That's the price of a Metrolink ride from the airport to downtown. 4. In New York, the savings can be even greater if you're willing to take a train ride to the suburbs Say you want to rent a car for this Fourth of July. At any of Hertz's Manhattan locations, a subcompact will cost $71.99 per day. But if you take a train to Hertz's location in North White Plains, the same car rents for $42.99. The rental lot is right next to the train station, and the ride takes no more than 50 minutes from Grand Central Station ($7 one-way). The savings are even greater if you keep the car for a week: $311.99 at North White Plains, compared to $409.99 in Manhattan. What's more, you still get the lower rate even if you return the car in Manhattan. 5. Check differences between weekend and weekday rates Sometimes you can save money by keeping the car longer. At airports and other locations catering to business travelers, weekend rates are so much cheaper that it might make sense to pick up a car on a Saturday or Sunday. (At some locations, there may even be more than one rate on the same day!) For example, at the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport, National charges $55.99 a day for a rental starting on a Monday. If you keep the car for three days and return it Wednesday night, you pay $167.97. But if you pick up that same car on Saturday night and keep it for four days, you pay for two days at the weekend rate of $21.99/day and two days at the rate of $48.99/day, for a total of $141.96. Voila! A savings of $26.01! If you pick up the car Friday night, you pay only $163.95, still $4 less than what you'd pay to pick it up on Monday morning, and you get the use of a car all weekend. In Manhattan, where car-less urbanites flee the city on weekends, the equation is just the opposite. Weekday rates are lower than weekend rates, but again, you can save money by keeping the car longer. For example, if you pick up an economy car at any of Budget's Manhattan locations on a Friday and return it Sunday you'd pay around $75.99 a day, or a total of $227.97. But if you pick up the car the night before (Thursday) and return it at the same time, you pay only $65.99 per day, or a total of $197.97. That's a savings of $30, which will more than offset the cost of storing the car overnight in an expensive Manhattan garage if you can't find a parking spot. Why do the car rental companies do this? For the same reason restaurants have early-bird specials. They want you out before the big rush. If you take a car off their hands on Thursday night, that opens up room for one more car they can rent on Friday. 6. If you're keeping the car for four or more days, check if there's a weekly rate that might be cheaper Weekly rates for most car rentals usually kick in on the fifth day. Most rental companies' weekly rates allow you to keep the car for five, six, or seven days with no difference in price. In many cases, the weekly rate might be cheaper than the four-day rate, and in a few cases, even cheaper than a three-day rental. Here's an example of the latter: If you pick up a subcompact car from Alamo at the Charlotte, North Carolina, airport and keep it for three days, you'll pay $60.99 a day, or a total of $182.97. Keep it for four days and you'll pay $243.06. But keep it for five days (or pick it up a day earlier) and the weekly rate of $146.99 kicks in, a savings of nearly $100. 7. Join all the frequent renter clubs you can find-the ones operated by the major car rental companies themselves (call them and request procedures for joining) These clubs, with names like "Gold Service" or "Emerald Club," are free to join, and usually get you a minimum of a 5 percent discount. But sometimes, preferred-renter discounts are greater and even better than what you get with AAA or AARP discounts. On a three-day rental when everybody is trying to get out of Manhattan, an Avis Wizard number saves 15 percent. And like frequent flyer programs, some frequent renter clubs allow you to earn points toward future free rentals. In addition to the financial incentive, frequent renter status gets you better service, beginning the minute you make your reservation. 8. Always return the car with a (mostly) full tank You don't have to fill up right outside the airport. As long as the needle says "F," nobody can say the tank isn't full. Returning your rental car (almost) full is still the most economical option. If the gauge is not on "F" when you return the car, you'll pay a fortune in refueling charges. If you pay in advance for a full tank, you'll come out ahead only if you bring the car back empty (not something you want to chance). 9. Check your automobile and health insurance policies to avoid hefty daily insurance charges The rental companies will try to sell you additional types of insurance, ranging from liability (sometimes called liability insurance supplement) to accident (a.k.a. personal accident insurance) to policies covering personal belongings. If you already have an auto insurance policy, decline them all. Each charge is several dollars a day, and they add up fast. If you have automobile insurance, you're probably covered for rental cars; if you have health insurance, you're covered for personal injuries regardless of how you end up in the hospital. And if you have homeowner's insurance, you may be covered if somebody steals your swimsuit from your trunk. Even if you don't have homeowner's insurance, personal effects coverage is a waste of money unless you're transporting the crown jewels in your Ford Escort. 10. Check your credit card coverage to avoid CDW charges Then there's that painful charge for a Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) or Loss Damage Waiver, both of them lures the rental companies use to get you to pay the collision portion of the insurance on their vehicles. Unless you sign the CDW agreement, sometimes adding more than $10 a day to the price of your rental, you're responsible for damage to the car in an accident. Many states (but not all) have outlawed this liability by requiring the car companies to pay for collision insurance, so you don't have to worry. But even if you rent in a state that allows CDW charges, you can decline the hefty fee by paying for your rental with a credit card that covers you in case of collision. American Express provides this service to holders of its Gold, Platinum, and Blue Cards, as well as standard green cards, but not every Visa or MasterCard does. MBNA America is one bank that does; check with your credit card's issuing bank to see if yours does too.

Home, Sweet Motorhome

Ever since RV industry started to flourish in the years after World War II (when cooking facilities consisted of engine-top grills), more than just an ingenious few have been enamored with the idea of combining their car with their accommodations. And these days, many RVs are veritable luxury digs on wheels, even offering kitchens with more bells and whistles than those found in studio apartments--dishwashers, Sub-Zero refrigerators, and handy washer and dryers. If you-ve met anyone into "RVing" then you know the enthusiasm for "cruising" can be infectious. According to the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association, some seven million US households now own RVs, and there's an estimated 30 million RV enthusiasts just looking for an excuse for a roadtrip. For families, the savings can be big The RV lifestyle, which for many brings silver-haired retirees and Adventures with Charlie to mind, is not for everyone. (Actually, more Baby Boomers, people ages 35-54, drive RVs now than any other demographic.) But, RVs can offer a refreshing alternative to traditional modes of travel. And while it may come as a surprise to some considering their low miles-per-gallon ratios, RVs can actually help you save money on vacation--maybe not on gas but on meals (you can cook your own) and accommodations. When you consider the average family of four in the US will spend approximately $250 per day on food and lodging (according to a report by AAA) cost-conscious travel by RV suddenly seems like the more affordable way to go. Let's look at the numbers. While you will pay to park at a campsite, in the end the cost is far less (between $15-$100, depending on the site) than what you'd spend on hotel rooms. (Of course, you always have the option of pulling into one of the many Walmart parking lots around the country. Walmart allows RVers to park for free, except in cases when overnight stays violate local zoning laws). Using the lowest possible rates--camp site ($15), RV rental ($90/day), and food ($30)-we calculated that it could cost as little as $135/day for a brood of four to travel by RV, excluding the cost of gas. That's a savings of $115 per day. Carry that out for an entire week and you save a whopping $805! Problems at the pump One place where your bank account will feel the pinch is at the pump. RVs, which have become much more fuel efficient in recent years, have long been considered the undisputed kings of gas guzzling. However for the budget traveler, as well as the political and environmentally minded, exactly how many miles your RV gets to the gallon remains a concern. With today's record-high gas costs and roadtrippers expecting to pay as much as $3/gallon this summer, the cost of gas cannot be ignored when planning your RV vacation. The average generously proportioned RV motorhome today gets about 10-12 miles to the gallon, which is fine for short area toots, but not so nice if you're planning a cross-country road trip. If you do plan to slog it across our great nation in a motorhome, then we advise logging on to GasPriceWatch.com, a helpful consumer advocacy site that tracks the price of gas state by state, station by station. With a simple check you can be sure you're filling up at the gas station with the lowest prices. Check ahead with your campground--a growing number are offering Internet access along with camp sites and showers. An RV to call your own If you don't own an RV but are interested in perhaps buying, renting can be a good "test drive". There are over 460 some odd national chain outlets that rent RVs around the country, so chances are you'll find one close to home, or an airport. According to the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association, rental prices are based three factors: season, region, and unit size (motorhome, travel trailer or truck camper). Daily rental range anywhere from $90-$200, but often you can negotiate lower per day costs if you rent by the week. What's commonly referred to as "housekeeping" packages--all the necessary pots, pans and dishes--are available at most RV rental agencies free of charge, but they do charge anywhere between $30-$00 if pieces are missing, or if you bring the dishes back dirty, so scrub those pots! "We're expecting this year to be the best yet for RV rentals, which allow you to get back to nature, be with your family, and see America comfortably and affordably," says Amy Shleton, Marketing and Communications Manager for the Recreational Vehicle Industry Association. Tips for renting an RV: Figure out whether you want to rent close to home or at the airport Look into fly-drive packages from RV rental agencies Confirm whether your insurance policy covers RVs, many do not If towing an RV, be sure you have an automatic transmission and power brakes and steering Like with most car rentals, you must be at least 25 years old to rent an RV Special offers from the biggest RV rental agencies The country's two largest RV rental companies, Cruise America and El Monte, are solid places to turn for decent rates. Neither company has any national summer sales at the moment, but each has its own regional offerings. For example, for $460 you can rent a nifty Class A motorhome with El Monte in Southern California for four nights. (Additional nights run $159.) until May 24. The company also has a whole host of one-way specials that come without same drop-off or mileage penalties. El Monte is also a great supporter of our nation's troops and regularly has special discounts for military personnel and their families. Expect to spend between $90-200/day, depending on where, when and what you rent. Cruise America's cut a deal with KOA Kampgrounds, a national chain with over 500 campgrounds across the US, that's good if you're planning on sleeping at the same site and keeping your exploring local. It works like this: you can actually rent an RV through Cruise America and then get free nights of camping (KOA sites average $40/night). Rent for three or four nights and get two nights free; rent fourteen nights and get ten free. You can only book this special online using the code: KOA. With 7.2 million RVs on the road, the growing popularity of recreational vehicles cannot be denied, even in this age of astronomically high gas prices. One thing is certain: RVs aren't just for retirees anymore.

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