It's a toss-up which sport is more popular in Aspen, celeb-spotting or skiing. The good news is that one is free, and the other doesn't have too hefty a price tag. Aspen Skiing Company operates the four mountains in the area--Snowmass, Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands, and Aspen Mountain, also called Ajax. The monopoly works in visitors' favor. A multiday lift pass is good at any mountain, and a free shuttle, which loops around the four ski areas, makes traveling between them pretty simple.
Timing your trip can be puzzling. Aspen Central Reservations, the official reservation service, divides winter into six seasons: Thanksgiving, Early, Holiday, Value, Peak, and Late. Early and Value--basically the months of December and January, excluding holidays--have ideal conditions and prices. A six-day Early Season lift ticket is $408, $36 less than in Holiday Season. And ACR's website also lists last-minute packages.
When it comes to day passes, an afternoon half-day ($59) may seem like the smart way to go, but skiing a morning half-day ends up being the same price--and more appealing. A program called First Tracks lets you claim a spot on the next day's 8 a.m. Ajax gondola. You'll be paving your way through fresh snow in relative quiet. Then, turn in your pass before 12:30 p.m. to get a $19 rebate.
In any town where $1 million doesn't even buy a teardown, finding a reasonable place to stay is the true challenge. Surprisingly, Aspen has fine options, all within walking distance to the mountains or shuttle. The best bargain is a bunk in a two- to four-bed room at St. Moritz Lodge--it starts at $31 a person, though your roommates could be strangers. There are also one- and two-bedroom condos for families (from $128). Everyone has access to a steam room and pool; the free breakfast consists of bagels, waffles, and hard-boiled eggs. The lodge also has a locking indoor ski rack for your gear. For longer stays, the Chalet Lisl rents quaint studios (from $119) and one-bedroom apartments (from $150), both with full kitchens.
Eating well is just as easy. Ajax Tavern doesn't charge an après-ski minimum, so you can rub elbows with the fur-trimmed starlets at outdoor tables. Little Annie's is far more casual; the barbecued beef sandwich with fries makes a hearty meal ($9). Cache Cache is one of Aspen's posher restaurants, but there's a well-priced bar menu--rainbow trout in a citrus vinaigrette comes with jasmine rice and is $12. Everyone and his arm candy ultimately ends up at Cooper Street, waiting for a turn at the pool table. It's just one more spirited sport in town--and best of all, it only costs five quarters.
Transportation
Lodging
Food
Activities
Toronto
1. The stretch of Queen Street West between Trinity--Bellwoods Park and Dufferin Street is formally known as West Queen West, but the informal--and easier--name is the Art and Design District. Forty-one galleries call the area home. Some are bigger than others: At the Fly Gallery, two artists/curators devote the bay window of their apartment to works by local artists. 1172 Queen St. West, 416/539-8577. 2. Don't mind the slightly unkempt exterior at Addis Ababa, a 13-year-old Ethiopian restaurant. Doro wat (chicken in berberé sauce) and gommen wat (collard greens with ginger and garlic) are served atop injera, a spongy flat bread that does double duty as a utensil. Stick around for the coffee. Made from strong beans, roasted daily in the kitchen, it cuts nicely through the bread, which expands fast in your belly. The coffee's aroma is complemented by a small stick of pungent frankincense left to burn on a dish at the table ($5). 1184 Queen St. West, 416/538-0059, dinner for two $25. 3. Three years ago, Christina Zeidler, with the help of her architect father, Eberhard, bought The Gladstone Hotel--a grand brick and stone Victorian that's Toronto's oldest continually operating hotel--and they've been getting local artists to do the decorating. By next month, 37 of the 51 rooms will be completed. Poetry readings and drawing classes take place regularly on the ground floor; and the Melody Bar hosts karaoke Thursday through Saturday nights. 1214 Queen St. West, 416/531-4635, gladstonehotel.com, from $114. 4. Built in the 1880s and '90s, the Victorian houses lining Beaconsfield Avenue between Queen Street West and Argyle Street are relics from WQW's wealthier days, and the city has designated many as heritage properties. Number 38 is the three-room Beaconsfield B&B, owned by an artist and an actor, Bernie and Katya McLoughlin. Breakfast may include berries fresh from the garden. 38 Beaconsfield Ave., 416/535-3338, bbcanada.com/beaconsfield, from $72. 5. Mildred Pierce Restaurant, named for the 1945 film starring Joan Crawford, is a classic itself. The French-Indian fusion restaurant has been a neighborhood fixture for 15 years. Floor-to-ceiling murals of a Renaissance feast are a fitting accompaniment to a Sunday brunch of "green eggs and ham" (scrambled eggs with spinach, served with a thick slice of ham and a buttermilk biscuit). 99 Sudbury St., 416/588-5695, green eggs and ham $8. 6. The Beaconsfield isn't on Beaconsfield Avenue, despite the name. A bistro in what was once a bank, it has a vibe both modern and glam. Hunker down on a maroon banquette and order a pint of one of the nine beers on tap ($5), and a burger with aged cheddar and shoestring fries ($10). 1154 Queen St. West, 416/516-2550. 7. The migration continues under the railway tracks that cross Queen Street West to another frontier neighborhood, Parkdale. Last year, Jamie Cheveldeyoff, an art director for music videos, turned what was once a methadone clinic into a decor boutique, Koma Designs, which sells shabby-chic furniture gathered from vintage shops and estate sales. 1239 Queen St. West, 416/532-5662. 8. Parkdale's Ground Level Café is run by a government-funded program that provides jobs to homeless and disadvantaged youth. At Saturday brunch, nothing on the menu--blueberry pancakes, omelets--costs more than $6. 1340 Queen St. West, 416/531-5346.
Eat Like a Local: Tel Aviv
Tel Avivians are eternal optimists. Give us the sun, a good cup of coffee, and the company of friends, and we're happy. Give us a plate of food, and we're transcendent. Maybe it's all the caffeine. Café culture is an integral part of life here, and the city is brimming with local chains, such as Espresso Bar. The most popular order is a café hafuch ("upside-down coffee"), another name for cappuccino. Locals linger for hours, talking to friends at their table or on the other end of the cell phone--often both at the same time. At Espresso Bar's newest branch on Dizengoff Street, one of the city's main thoroughfares, you'll be hard-pressed to find a free table on Fridays, especially between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., peak time to schmooze before Shabbat dinner. Open 24 hours, Brasserie M&R is popular for late-night cocktails. Its best bargain, however, is Friday or Saturday brunch, when $10-$13 gets you a cocktail; a basket of hot-from-the-oven rolls and muffins; your favorite coffee drink; and eggs Benedict, gravlax blini, pancakes, or porridge. There are countless hummus joints where the service is fast, the food is cheap, and the process of eating is part of the fun. Ali Karavan, also known as Abu Hassan, is a classic hole-in-the-wall three miles down the coast in Jaffa, technically part of Tel Aviv. The entire menu consists of masabacha (chickpeas in warm hummus-tahini sauce), labaneh (a soft cheese made out of yogurt), and hummus with or without ful (slow-cooked fava beans). Each item costs $2.50, and all orders come with pita bread, raw onions, and a piquant lemon-garlic sauce on the side. To eat, tear off a piece of pita and wipe up hummus from the outside in; alternate with bites of onion, and never use a fork. Ali Karavan is open every day except Saturday (Shabbat), from 8 a.m. until the day's hummus runs out, usually mid-afternoon. The deck at Manta Ray has a prime view of the Mediterranean coastline and the minarets in Jaffa. The food is equally awesome. Grilled fillet of drum fish--a type of Mediterranean fish similar to bass--is accompanied by mango chutney, Dijon mustard, and pesto ($19). You could make a whole meal of Manta Ray's small plates; they vary by season, and may include bulgur; chopped mango; fresh spinach and shrimp; or figs baked with feta. They're usually about $3 each. Eight years ago, chef Mika Sharon, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York City, opened the trendy restaurant Mika. Her cooking is a fusion of French, Italian, and Asian. Take Bouillabaisse Mika--a seasonal lemongrass-and-ginger-infused soup of calamari, blue crab, shrimp, and fresh-caught Mediterranean fish such as grouper, sea bream, or red snapper ($20). "Business lunches" are always a better deal than ordering à la carte--some are available as late as 6 p.m., and you don't need a briefcase to qualify. At Mika, the business lunch includes a choice of first course, second course, and soda for $18. Mika's secondary draw is its location, a few blocks from Rothschild Boulevard, which has some fine examples of 1930s Bauhaus architecture. Fusion, schmusion--on weekends, Tel Avivians miss their mothers. At Batia, locals get their fix of Ashkenazi comfort food, one of the many ethnic cuisines in and around the city. Batia excels at Ashkenazi signatures like creamy chopped liver; chicken soup with kneidalach (matzo balls) or kreplach (Jewish ravioli); sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage; and Polish-style, slightly sweet gefilte fish (each dish is around $3). Crispy schnitzel--deep-fried, breaded chicken cutlets--are every Israeli child's idea of paradise ($10). On Friday and Saturday, the restaurant also serves cholent, a traditional, slow-cooked, bean-and-barley dish with meat and potatoes that sticks to your ribs from the beginning of Shabbat until Sunday. Prices range from $5 to $10.50, depending on whether you want it plain, with extra meat, or with kishke--you don't want to know what that is, just eat it, it's good. For another example of comfort food, Gueta, a family restaurant in Jaffa, has consistently delicious regional cooking from Libya. Start with an assortment of dishes like cherchi (a spicy condiment of pureed pumpkin), pickled vegetables, preserved lemons, olives, and filfelchuma (garlic-hot pepper sauce), which cost $1.30 per person for a combination of three to four plates. Gueta is helmed by Leah Gueta, the matriarch, who makes couscous daily. Her couscous complet ($10) comes with three different sauces that have simmered for hours over a low flame: tibeha bil'salk (spinach, white beans, and beef); tibeha bil camun (kidney beans and beef in cumin-spiced tomato sauce); and brudu (vegetable soup). In the last decade, sushi restaurants have sprouted up like shiitake mushrooms. At stylish Onami, chef Aya Imatani serves the traditional array of gourmet sushi, but the real treats are her authentic Japanese classics like goma doufu, a traditional sesame tofu served cold with spicy miso sauce ($3.50); and lousujyu yakiniku, tender beef stir-fried with fresh mushrooms, onions, and barbecue sauce ($11). When there's something to celebrate, Tel Avivians choose Raphael, a French-Mediterranean restaurant overlooking the water. Seasonal specialties include polenta with parmigiano-reggiano and caviar ($10.75), or an appetizer of warm and cold foie gras with white leeks and sherry-vinegar caramel ($14.50). The sea bream entrée is roasted with tomatoes and pickled lemon ($19). Finally, the Valrhona chocolate with praline cream and cocoa sorbet rounds out a meal worth celebrating in its own right ($10). Espresso Bar 166 Dizengoff St., 011-972/3-527-0077 Brasserie M&R 70 Ibn Gvirol St., 011-972/3-696-7111 Ali Karavan 1 Ha'dolfin St., Jaffa, no phone Manta Ray Alma Beach near the Etzel Museum, 011-972/3-517-4774 Mika 27 Montefiore St., 011-972/3-528-3255 Batia 197 Dizengoff St., 011-972/3-522-1335 Gueta 6 Shderot Yurushalayim, Jaffa, 011-972/3-681-3993 Onami 18 Ha'arba'a St., 011-972/3-562-1172 Raphael 87 Hayarkon St., 011-972/3-522-6464