Aspen for Amateurs

By Ed Wetschler
October 24, 2005

It's a toss-up which sport is more popular in Aspen, celeb-spotting or skiing. The good news is that one is free, and the other doesn't have too hefty a price tag. Aspen Skiing Company operates the four mountains in the area--Snowmass, Buttermilk, Aspen Highlands, and Aspen Mountain, also called Ajax. The monopoly works in visitors' favor. A multiday lift pass is good at any mountain, and a free shuttle, which loops around the four ski areas, makes traveling between them pretty simple.

Timing your trip can be puzzling. Aspen Central Reservations, the official reservation service, divides winter into six seasons: Thanksgiving, Early, Holiday, Value, Peak, and Late. Early and Value--basically the months of December and January, excluding holidays--have ideal conditions and prices. A six-day Early Season lift ticket is $408, $36 less than in Holiday Season. And ACR's website also lists last-minute packages.

When it comes to day passes, an afternoon half-day ($59) may seem like the smart way to go, but skiing a morning half-day ends up being the same price--and more appealing. A program called First Tracks lets you claim a spot on the next day's 8 a.m. Ajax gondola. You'll be paving your way through fresh snow in relative quiet. Then, turn in your pass before 12:30 p.m. to get a $19 rebate.

In any town where $1 million doesn't even buy a teardown, finding a reasonable place to stay is the true challenge. Surprisingly, Aspen has fine options, all within walking distance to the mountains or shuttle. The best bargain is a bunk in a two- to four-bed room at St. Moritz Lodge--it starts at $31 a person, though your roommates could be strangers. There are also one- and two-bedroom condos for families (from $128). Everyone has access to a steam room and pool; the free breakfast consists of bagels, waffles, and hard-boiled eggs. The lodge also has a locking indoor ski rack for your gear. For longer stays, the Chalet Lisl rents quaint studios (from $119) and one-bedroom apartments (from $150), both with full kitchens.

Eating well is just as easy. Ajax Tavern doesn't charge an après-ski minimum, so you can rub elbows with the fur-trimmed starlets at outdoor tables. Little Annie's is far more casual; the barbecued beef sandwich with fries makes a hearty meal ($9). Cache Cache is one of Aspen's posher restaurants, but there's a well-priced bar menu--rainbow trout in a citrus vinaigrette comes with jasmine rice and is $12. Everyone and his arm candy ultimately ends up at Cooper Street, waiting for a turn at the pool table. It's just one more spirited sport in town--and best of all, it only costs five quarters.

Transportation

  • Ski Shuttle Rubey Park Transit Center, 400 block of E. Durant Ave., rfta.com
  • Lodging

  • Aspen Central Reservations 888/649-5982, stayaspensnowmass.com
  • St. Moritz Lodge 334 W. Hyman Ave., 800/817-2069, stmoritzlodge.com
  • Chalet Lisl 100 E. Hyman Ave., 970/925-3520, chaletlisl.com
  • Food

  • Ajax Tavern 685 E. Durant Ave., 970/920-9333
  • Cache Cache 205 S. Mill St., 970/925-3835
  • Cooper Street 508 E. Cooper Ave., 970/925-7758
  • Little Annie's 517 E. Hyman Ave., 970/925-1098
  • Activities

  • Aspen Skiing Company 800/525-6200, aspensnowmass.com
  • Plan Your Next Getaway
    Keep reading

    The Group Rip-Off

    Group discounts are pretty standard in the travel business. Give a company a lot of business and they'll reward you with a better per-person price, right? Or so you thought. With the merger of US Airways and America West Airlines, an interesting scheme called Commission Choice has been brought to light. For a couple of years now, America West has allowed travel agents to book groups through a special website created by airline, the HPagentlink.com. There, agents have two options: Selling fares at the published rate and netting a small commission ($3 per flight segment); or charging a fare marked up 11 percent over the published rate, which brings with it a 10 percent commission. A flight that costs $200 if booked directly through the airline can be $222 through an agent using HPagentlink.com, and, as is often the case today, agents may charge a service fee of $25 or more on top of bookings. People may never know that their fare was fiddled with. Commission Choice is the choice of the agent, not the client, and there's no evidence of price manipulation on the e-ticket itinerary. Customers are only alerted of the situation if the agent decides to tell them--and for obvious reasons, a lot of agents choose to keep silent. It's hard to tell how many people have been overcharged in this way, though it seems like it could happen a lot more often now that US Airways has begun offering Commission Choice to agents as well. To protect yourself when booking a trip--for a group or individual--always compare a few different price quotes. Otherwise that special "discount" may wind up costing you.

    Trip Coach: Oct. 18, 2005

    On Tuesday, Oct. 18 Josh Dean, who wrote 'Cape Town: The Top 25',  answered your questions on South Africa. The transcript is below. _______________________ Atlanta, GA: Hello Josh, I'm considering a trip to Capetown, S.A. but this time instead of being driven around, I would like to rent a car and drive the cape and wine lands. I will be a party of two. We've both have been drivng for at least 25 yrs. I've heard stories of car jackings along the highway, is this true. Josh Dean: A lot has been made of carjackings in South Africa and I can't tell you there isn't something to it. There is a lot of unemployment in the country and law enforcement can be spotty but I've been there four times and have never felt in danger. It's like being in New York or Moscow or much of the Third World - you need to exercise caution and good sense. Avoid bad areas. But in general, the Cape is well policed and certainly you're safe on the highways. You'd just want to avoid, say, stopping alone at night. _______________________ Winston-Salem, NC: We would like to go to Capetown in mid may 2006. 3 nights in Capetown. Rent a car and visit the cape and the wine country for 2/3 nights. Take the blue train to Pretoria. Then fly to Victoria Falls and visit some game parks includiong the Okavango Delta. Is this feasible? Suggestions, please, especially as to who to deal with on the game parks portion of the trip Josh Dean: Wow - that's biting off a lot. It's certainly possible to do all of this, especially if you've got a few weeks to do it. Three nights in CT is adequate and a couple nights in wine country should also do the trick. Botswana alone is worth at least a week. Chobe and the Okavango are vast and beautiful and far more wild feeling, in my experience, than South Africa's Kruger (which is still an amazing park). I haven't dealt with specific outfitters in that area, unfortunately but there are no shortage of them, many run by South Africans. You'll find no shortage of lodges too - from rustic to luxury. _______________________ pittsburgh, Pennsylvania: is it safe for a 63 year old woman to drive around south africa alone, and if so, can you recommend a super-low-cost rental agency for a month long rental, since i won't have anyone with whom to share the costs? also, if i can ask a second question, are there any budget hotels that have single rooms? Josh Dean: That's a tough one. I tend to think that SA is safe if you are smart and careful and travel in touristed areas during the day. But I would definitely rent a cell phone and make sure friends/relatives know where you are. Obviously, though, it would be safer -- and more fun! -- with a friend along. There are plenty of budget hotels and nearly all offer single rates. The exchange rate now is still very friendly to the dollar, so you'll find good value for money. _______________________ san diego ,califoria : 1. when is the best time of the year to go for three weeks ? 2. What is the most economical way to fly from san diego to capetown , roundtrip? Josh Dean: All flights now go through Johannesburg, though South African Air has in the past offered direct flights from Atlanta to CT. SAA is the only carrier that flies direct from the US and if you buy in advance, and in the offseason, you'll find flights as cheap as $900. You can also score in that range if you go through Europe. British Air and Virgin both service South Africa from England. Air France and KLM from Paris and A'dam. As for when to go, it depends what you're doing. Our winter is their summer, and around the Cape it's lovely in summer. Winter, though, is the best time for game viewing b/c the foliage is dead and the animals can't hide so easily. If you're doing a combo of activities, you might consider late winter/early spring. Flowers will be blooming and the hotter areas won't yet have reached summer highs. _______________________ Seattle, WA: Where are the best places to hike near Cape Town? We're interested in day-hikes (not overnight). Thanks! Josh Dean: There are so many! The city is literally surrounded by mountains. Table Mountain alone has dozens of day hikes. South of the city, there are hundreds that climb, say, the Twelve Apostles or the hills around Hout Bay -- and then there's the huge Cape Point park. Any local bookstore will have a section of books full of hikes. You could stay there a month and still not run out of options. _______________________ New York, NY: Does South Africa still have quite a favorable exchange rate for Americans? Last year, a friend visited Cape Town and raved about the exchange rate (USD to Rand). Is this still the case? Josh Dean: Definitely. It's slightly less favorable than a year ago but you will find it to be highly affordable for Americans -- things in my experience were half to 2/3s the price. _______________________ San Francisco, CA: I've read quite a few articles about the increasingly popular wine tastings and tours in Cape Town and South Africa. Do you have any recommendations/favorites? Would I need to rent a car, or would you recommend a different mode of transportation? Josh Dean: The wine region is relatively small in terms of area, and centered on three cities: Stellenbosch, Paarl and Franschoek. The routes are well marked and highly promoted by South Africa's tourism board. I'd recommend staying two nights in one of the towns -- Stellenbosch is biggest, with the most hotel and restaurant options -- and exploring a bit on your own. The settings are fantastic. Two of my favorite wineries are Vergelegen and Waterford, but really you can't go wrong. _______________________ Houston, TX: We were told it was cheaper & faster to fly to Cape Town via Buenos Aires. Is it? Josh Dean: It might be cheaper but it's not faster. It's 11 hours from New York to BA and then that far again from BA to CT. From NYC to Joburg is about 16, and it's only another 2 from there. Either way, it's a LONG day. _______________________ San Francisco, California: We will be in Cape Town at the end of July. We travel independently and would like advice on many things. There are four of us, my husband and our 2 kids, ages 9 and 13. Are there any places that have quads? We normally stay at 3 star places, but would could stay at 2 star places, if you recommend them. Where would you rent a car? Suggestions on itineraries? We plan to be there about a week. In addition, we plan to head up to Johannesburg. Thanks so much Josh Dean: I'd recommend you check out the B&Bs and Inns that are all over CT and the Cape region. South Africa has an excellent network of such places. Portfolio Collection, which has a website, has many in a variety of price points, all vetted and well selected. You'll find some quads, I think, but that might take some more digging. I would recommend renting a car - the region itself is spread out and many of the most beautiful parts -- wine country, Cape Point, Chapman's Peak Drive -- all require a car. Europcar is the company I used. They're reasonable. Itinerary-wise, I'd save three days for the city, a day for Cape Point, a day or two for wine country (you can easily drive out for the day from the city) and a few flex days. I highly recommend township tours and Robben Island. _______________________ New York, NY: What is the weather like in December/early January? When is the best time to visit, in your opinion? Josh Dean: December/January is the peak of summer. In many parts of SA, that means heat. CT, though, is mild like San Francisco. Days are occasionally hot but mostly it's breezy and comfortable. It's also the driest time of the year. Really lovely. _______________________ Houston, TX: Would you recommend any historical sites or tours such as the Nelson Mandela museum, apartheid, or slavery sites? Josh Dean: Absolutely! You would be remiss to visit CT w/o visiting Robben Island, where Mandela served his prison sentence. Now the tours are run by actual prisoners and the experience is moving beyond words. Township tours are also essential, in my opinion. Poverty is a huge part of life there and this is a safe way to see how most of the people live. These tours will typically start at the District Six museum, which gives you another powerful look at apartheid's horrible story. _______________________ Austin, TX: Any suggestions for a family vacation in Cape Town? We'd be interested in Kruger National Park for wildlife, of course, but any other ideas--museums, parks, etc.??? Josh Dean: Well, Kruger is on the compete other side of South Africa - a good 4-hour flight away! You can certainly do both during a visit but you'd need a minimum of 10 days. That said, I think it's nuts to go all the way to Africa and not see the wildlife. You could do say, 3 days and nights at the park (which has some lovely rest camps with cabins and also high end luxury lodges) and then 4 nights in the Cape. Flights w/in the country are not expensive and can be booked in advance or once you get there. South African Airlines is the national carrier. If you had three weeks, I'd recommend driving b/w the two places - either straight across the Karoo desert or along the spectacular Garden Route that runs the coast. _______________________ Liverpool, NY: I would like to take a safari and have heard that it is cheaper to make arrangements after getting to South Africa. True? Josh Dean: Generally true, yes - not only in terms of South Africa but most countries. You'll find no shortage of travel agent shops in the cities hawking safaris and tours. _______________________ Syracuse, NY: Planning my first (and probably last) trip to Africa in 2006. Thinking a couple days driving in Cape Town and 2-3 weeks safari (Botswana, Zimbabwe???). I am travelling solo and would like to join a very small group of folks age 50+ Prefer off the beaten path (somewhat) versus with the throngs. Like native villages/crafts. Like adventure travel (like Jack Hanna)and great food/wine. How do I maximize with a modest budget? What month(s) are best for game viewing? Should I book air in US and then safari(s) once there? What else should I know that I don't know to ask! Thanks for your HELP! Josh Dean: The best game viewing is in their winter, when the foliage is dead and the animals cannot so easily hide - that means our summer, since SA is obviously in the opposite hemisphere. If you have that much time i'd highly recommend you do the safari in Botswana, where the parks are huge and wild. It is indeed cheaper to book the safari once you get there when you can pay in rand and save yourself a bundle. All of the major cities are riddled with tour shops that will sell you safaris. Do a combination of Victoria Falls/Chobe/Okavango Delta and you'll see not only heaps of wildlife but also some of the most beautiful scenery on earth. There will be some chances to visit villages along the way. A couple days should be fine in Cape Town. Maybe fly there, spend a few days, book a safari, then travel back and spend another day or two and fly home from there. 2-3 weeks should be enough time to do this well. _______________________ Josh Dean: Thanks everybody for the great questions. And happy traveling. South Africa is an amazing place - comfortable for US travelers and yet spectacular beyond belief. Have fun! _______________________

    1. The stretch of Queen Street West between Trinity--Bellwoods Park and Dufferin Street is formally known as West Queen West, but the informal--and easier--name is the Art and Design District. Forty-one galleries call the area home. Some are bigger than others: At the Fly Gallery, two artists/curators devote the bay window of their apartment to works by local artists. 1172 Queen St. West, 416/539-8577. 2. Don't mind the slightly unkempt exterior at Addis Ababa, a 13-year-old Ethiopian restaurant. Doro wat (chicken in berberé sauce) and gommen wat (collard greens with ginger and garlic) are served atop injera, a spongy flat bread that does double duty as a utensil. Stick around for the coffee. Made from strong beans, roasted daily in the kitchen, it cuts nicely through the bread, which expands fast in your belly. The coffee's aroma is complemented by a small stick of pungent frankincense left to burn on a dish at the table ($5). 1184 Queen St. West, 416/538-0059, dinner for two $25. 3. Three years ago, Christina Zeidler, with the help of her architect father, Eberhard, bought The Gladstone Hotel--a grand brick and stone Victorian that's Toronto's oldest continually operating hotel--and they've been getting local artists to do the decorating. By next month, 37 of the 51 rooms will be completed. Poetry readings and drawing classes take place regularly on the ground floor; and the Melody Bar hosts karaoke Thursday through Saturday nights. 1214 Queen St. West, 416/531-4635, gladstonehotel.com, from $114. 4. Built in the 1880s and '90s, the Victorian houses lining Beaconsfield Avenue between Queen Street West and Argyle Street are relics from WQW's wealthier days, and the city has designated many as heritage properties. Number 38 is the three-room Beaconsfield B&B, owned by an artist and an actor, Bernie and Katya McLoughlin. Breakfast may include berries fresh from the garden. 38 Beaconsfield Ave., 416/535-3338, bbcanada.com/beaconsfield, from $72. 5. Mildred Pierce Restaurant, named for the 1945 film starring Joan Crawford, is a classic itself. The French-Indian fusion restaurant has been a neighborhood fixture for 15 years. Floor-to-ceiling murals of a Renaissance feast are a fitting accompaniment to a Sunday brunch of "green eggs and ham" (scrambled eggs with spinach, served with a thick slice of ham and a buttermilk biscuit). 99 Sudbury St., 416/588-5695, green eggs and ham $8. 6. The Beaconsfield isn't on Beaconsfield Avenue, despite the name. A bistro in what was once a bank, it has a vibe both modern and glam. Hunker down on a maroon banquette and order a pint of one of the nine beers on tap ($5), and a burger with aged cheddar and shoestring fries ($10). 1154 Queen St. West, 416/516-2550. 7. The migration continues under the railway tracks that cross Queen Street West to another frontier neighborhood, Parkdale. Last year, Jamie Cheveldeyoff, an art director for music videos, turned what was once a methadone clinic into a decor boutique, Koma Designs, which sells shabby-chic furniture gathered from vintage shops and estate sales. 1239 Queen St. West, 416/532-5662. 8. Parkdale's Ground Level Café is run by a government-funded program that provides jobs to homeless and disadvantaged youth. At Saturday brunch, nothing on the menu--blueberry pancakes, omelets--costs more than $6. 1340 Queen St. West, 416/531-5346.

    Inspiration

    Eat Like a Local: Tel Aviv

    Tel Avivians are eternal optimists. Give us the sun, a good cup of coffee, and the company of friends, and we're happy. Give us a plate of food, and we're transcendent. Maybe it's all the caffeine. Café culture is an integral part of life here, and the city is brimming with local chains, such as Espresso Bar. The most popular order is a café hafuch ("upside-down coffee"), another name for cappuccino. Locals linger for hours, talking to friends at their table or on the other end of the cell phone--often both at the same time. At Espresso Bar's newest branch on Dizengoff Street, one of the city's main thoroughfares, you'll be hard-pressed to find a free table on Fridays, especially between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., peak time to schmooze before Shabbat dinner. Open 24 hours, Brasserie M&R is popular for late-night cocktails. Its best bargain, however, is Friday or Saturday brunch, when $10-$13 gets you a cocktail; a basket of hot-from-the-oven rolls and muffins; your favorite coffee drink; and eggs Benedict, gravlax blini, pancakes, or porridge. There are countless hummus joints where the service is fast, the food is cheap, and the process of eating is part of the fun. Ali Karavan, also known as Abu Hassan, is a classic hole-in-the-wall three miles down the coast in Jaffa, technically part of Tel Aviv. The entire menu consists of masabacha (chickpeas in warm hummus-tahini sauce), labaneh (a soft cheese made out of yogurt), and hummus with or without ful (slow-cooked fava beans). Each item costs $2.50, and all orders come with pita bread, raw onions, and a piquant lemon-garlic sauce on the side. To eat, tear off a piece of pita and wipe up hummus from the outside in; alternate with bites of onion, and never use a fork. Ali Karavan is open every day except Saturday (Shabbat), from 8 a.m. until the day's hummus runs out, usually mid-afternoon. The deck at Manta Ray has a prime view of the Mediterranean coastline and the minarets in Jaffa. The food is equally awesome. Grilled fillet of drum fish--a type of Mediterranean fish similar to bass--is accompanied by mango chutney, Dijon mustard, and pesto ($19). You could make a whole meal of Manta Ray's small plates; they vary by season, and may include bulgur; chopped mango; fresh spinach and shrimp; or figs baked with feta. They're usually about $3 each. Eight years ago, chef Mika Sharon, a graduate of the French Culinary Institute in New York City, opened the trendy restaurant Mika. Her cooking is a fusion of French, Italian, and Asian. Take Bouillabaisse Mika--a seasonal lemongrass-and-ginger-infused soup of calamari, blue crab, shrimp, and fresh-caught Mediterranean fish such as grouper, sea bream, or red snapper ($20). "Business lunches" are always a better deal than ordering à la carte--some are available as late as 6 p.m., and you don't need a briefcase to qualify. At Mika, the business lunch includes a choice of first course, second course, and soda for $18. Mika's secondary draw is its location, a few blocks from Rothschild Boulevard, which has some fine examples of 1930s Bauhaus architecture. Fusion, schmusion--on weekends, Tel Avivians miss their mothers. At Batia, locals get their fix of Ashkenazi comfort food, one of the many ethnic cuisines in and around the city. Batia excels at Ashkenazi signatures like creamy chopped liver; chicken soup with kneidalach (matzo balls) or kreplach (Jewish ravioli); sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage; and Polish-style, slightly sweet gefilte fish (each dish is around $3). Crispy schnitzel--deep-fried, breaded chicken cutlets--are every Israeli child's idea of paradise ($10). On Friday and Saturday, the restaurant also serves cholent, a traditional, slow-cooked, bean-and-barley dish with meat and potatoes that sticks to your ribs from the beginning of Shabbat until Sunday. Prices range from $5 to $10.50, depending on whether you want it plain, with extra meat, or with kishke--you don't want to know what that is, just eat it, it's good. For another example of comfort food, Gueta, a family restaurant in Jaffa, has consistently delicious regional cooking from Libya. Start with an assortment of dishes like cherchi (a spicy condiment of pureed pumpkin), pickled vegetables, preserved lemons, olives, and filfelchuma (garlic-hot pepper sauce), which cost $1.30 per person for a combination of three to four plates. Gueta is helmed by Leah Gueta, the matriarch, who makes couscous daily. Her couscous complet ($10) comes with three different sauces that have simmered for hours over a low flame: tibeha bil'salk (spinach, white beans, and beef); tibeha bil camun (kidney beans and beef in cumin-spiced tomato sauce); and brudu (vegetable soup). In the last decade, sushi restaurants have sprouted up like shiitake mushrooms. At stylish Onami, chef Aya Imatani serves the traditional array of gourmet sushi, but the real treats are her authentic Japanese classics like goma doufu, a traditional sesame tofu served cold with spicy miso sauce ($3.50); and lousujyu yakiniku, tender beef stir-fried with fresh mushrooms, onions, and barbecue sauce ($11). When there's something to celebrate, Tel Avivians choose Raphael, a French-Mediterranean restaurant overlooking the water. Seasonal specialties include polenta with parmigiano-reggiano and caviar ($10.75), or an appetizer of warm and cold foie gras with white leeks and sherry-vinegar caramel ($14.50). The sea bream entrée is roasted with tomatoes and pickled lemon ($19). Finally, the Valrhona chocolate with praline cream and cocoa sorbet rounds out a meal worth celebrating in its own right ($10). Espresso Bar 166 Dizengoff St., 011-972/3-527-0077 Brasserie M&R 70 Ibn Gvirol St., 011-972/3-696-7111 Ali Karavan 1 Ha'dolfin St., Jaffa, no phone Manta Ray Alma Beach near the Etzel Museum, 011-972/3-517-4774 Mika 27 Montefiore St., 011-972/3-528-3255 Batia 197 Dizengoff St., 011-972/3-522-1335 Gueta 6 Shderot Yurushalayim, Jaffa, 011-972/3-681-3993 Onami 18 Ha'arba'a St., 011-972/3-562-1172 Raphael 87 Hayarkon St., 011-972/3-522-6464