True Stories

June 9, 2005
Proving once and for all that travel is stranger, funnier, and more heartwarming than fiction

This month's winner is Sydney Rogers of Mount Pleasant, S.C. Her prize: A nine-day safari in Kenya courtesy of 2Afrika.

Backpacking in Honduras, my fiancé, Ben, and I opted to take the train instead of a bus. To our dismay, it turned out to be a stuffy, dirty, and windowless livestock train. We arrived in Tela desperate to bathe. Our hotel advertised private showers, and our room did indeed have a shower--but the only running water was a slow trickle from the sink. We filled our empty water bottles, laughing hysterically as we rinsed ourselves in our "private shower." It was the best one we'd had in weeks!

Win a 17-Day Trip to Thailand

If your response is the best we receive before June 30, you'll win a 17-day trip to Thailand courtesy of Djoser. The prize includes round-trip airfare for one from New York or L. A. to Bangkok; accommodations in hotels, beach cabanas, and sleeper trains; airport transfers; and a guide. Valid for departures until June 1, 2006. Blackout dates apply. If 2006 prices increase, winner must pay the difference. Trips booked in high or shoulder seasons (June, July, August, December) will incur additional costs. Subject to availability, nontransferable, nonnegotiable. For more information on Djoser: 877/356-7376, djoserusa.com. How to enter: TrueStories@BudgetTravelOnline.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. Guidelines are at BudgetTravelOnline.com. Sorry, we can't return photos.

Bear in mind that his left hand was pointing the wrong way

While hiking in Mexico's Baja peninsula, my girlfriend and I got lost. Christ! I said to myself. Where's the car? Reaching the top of the hill, we were amazed to behold a sight that made my earlier exclamation strangely prophetic--a giant statue of Jesus. And his right hand was pointing directly to our car. --Gene Pembroke, Lester, Pa.

Now please slap your knee

I'd always been told that the Japanese were unfailingly polite, and on my first business trip to Osaka, I found it to be true. I was giving a lecture, and because Japanese audiences are traditionally quiet, I was trying a little tongue-in-cheek humor. They seemed to heartily appreciate it. "They're understanding my humor, right?" I asked the interpreter. "Oh yes, Rick-san," she replied. "I always tell them, 'Is American joke. Please laugh.' " --Rick Tillman, Tualatin, Ore.

Rigorously translated, it means "Aussie Filthpot"

In Zanzibar, my husband and I took a spice farm tour with our Australian travel mate, Mac. The locals had been pointing and laughing at him all day, so finally he asked a worker what was so funny. "Your shirt!" she said. Mac had ruined a shirt while on safari, so he'd bought a new one at the market. It turns out that the Swahili word on the shirt, mzungu, loosely translates as "white boy tourist."--Denise Jones, Issaquah, Wash.

Fresh is good, right? 

My wife and I couldn't help noticing how everyone in New Delhi was enjoying iced fruit drinks. It was brutally hot, and even though we knew the ice was suspect, we broke down and ordered a mango drink. We started drinking on the spot. Suddenly, there was a commotion a few stalls away-a boy was screaming at a cow. He bent down and picked up his bike, which the cow had knocked over. He then knelt down and grabbed a block of ice from a pile of fresh cow manure. He wiped it down with his hands, strapped it to his bike, and delivered it to our vendor. --Alfie Blanch, Pasadena, Calif.

Then there are the ones you can't see

Thirty-five years after serving in Vietnam, I returned to visit the places I used to patrol. One day, overlooking the Cambodian border, I heard a noise on the trail leading to the road. All of a sudden, out popped this woman smuggling cigarettes across the border. It was the best laugh of the day. --Tom Layman, Petersburg, Mich.

Plan Your Next Getaway
Keep reading

40 Best Bargain Vacations

What You Need to Know to Use This Section All of the rates and packages are accurate and available as of press time, but these trips usually sell out quickly. Additional fees: Any service fees, security and passenger-facility charges, and visa costs generally aren't included; neither are hotel, car rental, and airport taxes. Such charges vary widely--expect $300 (and higher) for spots where visas alone cost $100 or more. Timing: Most rates are based on midweek airfare; weekend travel can raise the price $100 or more each way. Be flexible. Singles Rates: are per person, for two people traveling together and sharing a room. The single supplement is the fee levied for going alone. Itinerary changes: You can often add nights: The extra-night rate is per person, double occupancy. Most operators will bundle excursions, meals, and tours for an additional cost. Research: Hotels will be clean and safe, offering the basics for a basic price. The lowest-price ones may not be centrally located. As with any serious purchase, you should do some research. Many websites--TripAdvisor and Epinions, for example--post reviews of hotels and cruises. If you don't like what you see, upgrades to better hotels are almost always available. Airfare: Where flights are included, we list prices from several airports ("gateways"), but we don't have space to show them all. Operators may arrange connections from other airports, but don't assume they'll always give you the best rate. It might make more sense to book your flights using frequent-flier miles or a low-cost airline. Also, check to see how many connections you'll have to make. All-inclusives: All-inclusive resorts usually cover lodging, three meals daily, entertainment, and nonmotorized water sports. Some also include alcoholic drinks and gratuities. The Real Deals Right Now United States A New Place to Play in Vegas for $620 At exactly 12:01 a.m. on April 28, the doors finally opened to Steve Wynn's eponymous new $2.7 billion megaresort on the Las Vegas Strip--revealing 200 acres of unbridled decadence, from the 2,700 hotel rooms to the 100,000-square-foot casino to the 18-hole championship golf course (the only one on the Strip) to the mini-mall selling Manolo Blahniks and Ferraris. Get your own piece of the action with Champion Air charter flights from Dallas or Minneapolis and four nights in a resort room at the Wynn Las Vegas. When: Sunday departures June 5--Aug. 28 (except June 5 and July 24 from Minneapolis). Other Gateways: Detroit (from $670) and St. Louis (from $660), but dates vary. Details: No extra nights. Single supplement from $436. Contact: Worry-Free Vacations, 888/225-5658, worryfreevacations.com. Arizona for $260 Air from L.A. and three nights at the Hyatt Regency Scottsdale Resort & Spa at Gainey Ranch, just outside Phoenix. The hotel offers 10 swimming pools, a three-story waterslide, three restaurants, eight tennis courts, a full spa, and 27 holes of golf. When: Select Sunday and Monday departures May 30--Sept. 17. Other Gateways: San Francisco ($327), Denver ($380), Chicago ($415), Boston ($463). Details: Extra nights $80. Single supplement $160. Contact: America West Vacations, 800/235-9298, americawestvacations.com. Disney World for $379 Air from Boston, D.C., or New York and three nights at Disney's giant Pop Century Resort. When: Monday departures July 11--Aug. 22. Other Gateways: Charlotte, Philadelphia, Pittsburgh ($399). Details: Extra nights from $60. Single supplement from $170. A two-day ParkHopper pass costs $154 from Disney; three days $206. Upgrade to Disney's Caribbean Beach Resort starting at $70 more. Contact: US Airways Vacations, 800/352-8747, usairwaysvacations.com. Fort Lauderdale for $299 Air from New York and three nights at the three-star Holiday Inn Lauderdale by the Sea, with a pool and fitness room. When: Until Nov. 30. Other Gateways: D.C. ($329); Boston, Chicago ($349); Dallas ($375); L.A. ($399); San Francisco ($429). Details: Extra nights $49. Single supplement $149. Upgrade to the four-star Sheraton Yankee Trader Hotel for $35 more. Contact: Leisure Link International, 888/801-8808, eleisurelink.com. Hawaii for Families for $2,669 Air from Oakland to Honolulu, transfers, and seven nights in a two-bedroom at the Ohana East in Waikiki starts at $2,669 for a family of four. Air from Oakland to Maui, an eight-day car rental, and seven nights in a two-bedroom condo at the Kihei Akahi starts at $2,859 for a family of four. When: Select departures through August. Other Gateways: None. Details: Prices for two adults and two children (ages 17 and under). No extra nights. Contact: SunTrips, 800/786-8747, suntrips.com. Maui for $408 The Plantation Inn's Unforgettable Maui package is $408, including a three-day car rental (pick up and drop off at the airport), three nights in a deluxe room, breakfast daily, and one dinner for two at Gerard's Restaurant. The Ka'anapali Beach Hotel's $448 Maui Getaway package includes a three-day car rental, three nights in an ocean-view room, breakfast daily, and your choice of either dinner for two or Sunday brunch for two. When: Until Dec. 15. Details: Prices are per person and do not include airfare. Contact: The Plantation Inn, 800/433-6815, theplantationinn.com. The Ka'anapali Beach Hotel, 800/262-8450, kbhmaui.com. San Diego for $194 Air from Oakland, Sacramento, or San Jose and two nights at the Best Western Seven Seas Lodge. When: Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday departures June 2--Aug. 30 (from $194). Blacked out June 29--July 3. Other Gateways: Houston, New Orleans (from $304); Chicago, Nashville, Providence (from $324). Details:Extra nights from $35. Single supplement from $95. Contact: Southwest Airlines Vacations, 800/423-5683, swavacations.com. Canada Montreal Swings Again for $446 Many believe it's the only truly original American form of music, but few know that the world's largest celebration of jazz is actually held across the border in Canada. Over the course of 11 days, 2,500 musicians from 20 countries will perform more than 500 concerts for 2 million fans. It's all part of the 26th annual Festival International de Jazz de Montréal. You'll need tickets to see top-billed acts like Michael Bublé, but the majority of shows will be free of charge, held on outdoor stages throughout the city. A Duo Jazz package includes two nights at the four-star Hôtel St. Paul in Old Montreal, breakfast daily, a six-course dinner at the Europa Restaurant, a ticket to one of the featured concerts (Michael Bublé, Cesaria Evora, Mark Knopfler, and Roberta Flack and Al Jarreau, among others), a ticket to a concert by local musicians, a souvenir album and T-shirt, and more. When: June 30--July 10. Details: The price is per person double occupancy, and does not include airfare. Contact: Alio Travel, 800/280-9967, montrealjazzfest.com/packages. Newfoundland & Saint-Pierre for $1,639 Air Canada flights from Atlanta or Boston to St. John's, a nine-day midsize car rental, nine nights' lodging (three in St. John's, two in Dildo, two in Trinity, and two on the French island of Saint-Pierre), round-trip ferry transfers to Saint-Pierre, and a whale-watching boat tour in Conception Bay. When: Until Oct. 31. Other Gateways: Chicago, New York ($1,749); L.A. ($1,829). Details: Extra nights $99. Single supplement $999. Contact: Maxxim Vacations Gray Line, 800/567-6666, maxximvacations.com. Victoria for $529 Alaska Airlines flights from San Francisco, transfers, and three nights at the Best Western Carlton Plaza downtown, a few blocks from the Inner Harbour. When: Wednesday and Saturday departures June 1--Aug. 31. Other Gateways: L.A. (from $563); Boston, New York, Orlando (from $724). Details: Extra nights from $85. Single supplement from $260. Contact: Alaska Airlines Vacations, 800/468-2248, alaskaair.com. Mexico Cabo San Lucas for $799 Aero California flights from L.A. and seven nights in San José del Cabo at the all-inclusive Royal Solaris Los Cabos. The beachfront hotel has two pools, four restaurants, and lots of activities. When: Sunday through Wednesday departures until Oct. 31. Other Gateways: None. Details: Extra nights $78. Single supplement $450. Two children 12 and under stay free when sharing a room with two adults (airfare not included for kids). Contact: SkyAuction, skyauction.com/budgettraveljune, book over the Internet. Cancún for $385 American Airlines flights from Miami, transfers, and five nights in an ocean-view room at the Carisa y Palma, a beachfront condo hotel with a restaurant/bar, pool, and tennis court. When: June 1--30, July 7--28, Aug. 1--31. Other Gateways: Philadelphia ($426); New York ($504); Baltimore, D.C. ($513). Details: Extra nights from $68. Single supplement from $189. Contact: Vacation Travel Mart, 800/288-1435, vacmart.com. Puerto Vallarta for $435 Alaska Airlines flights from L.A., transfers, and four nights at the Hacienda Hotel & Spa, with a pool and swim-up bar. The beach is a short walk away. When: April 3--Dec. 18. Other Gateways: Chicago ($586, with American Airlines flights from April 7--Dec. 15), New York ($664, Aeroméxico, April 3--Dec. 15), Denver ($751, Delta, April 7--Dec. 15). Details: Land-only price is $187. Extra nights $84. Single supplement from $219. Contact: Pleasant Holidays, 800/448-3333, pleasantholidays.com. Caribbean Dominican Republic for $525 American Airlines flights from Miami and five all-inclusive nights on Puerto Plata's Playa Dorada at the four-star Paradise Beach Club & Casino, with a pool, three restaurants, five bars, and a nightclub. When: June 1--28 ($525); July 7--28 and Aug. 1--31 ($554). Other Gateways: New York ($561/$590); Phila-delphia ($601/$630); Baltimore, D.C. ($698/$727). Details: Extra nights from $79. Single supplement from $134. Contact: Vacation Travel Mart, 800/288-1435, vacmart.com. Jamaica for $453 Continental or Air Jamaica flights from New York or Philadelphia and seven nights at Legends Beach Resort on Negril's Seven Mile Beach. When: Monday through Thursday departures until Aug. 31, except June 30--July 5 and July 18--25. Other Gateways: Pittsburgh ($502), Atlanta ($512), Miami ($532), Charlotte ($542). Details: Extra nights from $35. Single supplement from $217. Contact: Atlas Vacations, 800/634-1057, atlasvacations.net. Nevis for $62 Families or friends who book four nights in a two-bedroom superior suite at the Mount Nevis Hotel ($495 per night for four people) will get four nights free; if five are booked, five nights are free, etc. This works out to $62 a night per person. The hotel is on a hillside overlooking the sea; shuttle service is provided to a nearby beach club. When: May 15--Dec. 15. Details: This is a land-only price; airfare is not included. Contact: Mount Nevis Hotel, 800/756-3847, mountnevishotel.com. Central America Belize for $829 American Airlines flights from Miami, a three-day car rental, flights between Belize City and Ambergris Cay, and seven nights' lodging (one at the Jaguar Paw Jungle Lodge and two at the Black Rock River Lodge, both in the Cayo District, and four at the Mayan Princess Suites on Ambergris). When: Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday departures June 1--30 ($829) and July 1--Aug. 31 ($854). Other Gateways: Dallas ($879/$904), New York ($929/$954), Chicago ($1,029/$1,054), L.A. ($1,097/$1,122), Seattle ($1,129/$1,154). Details: Extra nights from $50. Single supplement $347. Contact: Capricorn Leisure, 800/426-6544, capricorn.net. Costa Rica for $475 Grupo Taca flights from Miami to San José and four all-inclusive nights at the beachfront Fiesta Resort, on the Pacific coast near Puntarenas. When: June 1--Aug. 31. Other Gateways: Dallas, New York (add $175); L.A. (add $199). Details: The resort is 90 minutes from the airport. Shuttle transfers cost $60 round trip; car rentals can be arranged starting at about $20 per day. Extra nights from $66. Single supplement from $180. Contact: Leisure Link International, 888/801-8808, eleisurelink.com. South America Brazil for $1,850 The Island Experience on Ilha Grande offers a seven-day program that includes round-trip transfers from Rio International Airport to Ilha Grande, six nights' lodging, all meals (they're vegetarian and organic), 45 hours of supervised activities (sea kayaking, hiking), yoga classes, a daily one-hour massage, recreational activities (snorkeling, capoeira classes, painting classes, etc.), and three nights of Brazilian cultural entertainment. When: The program runs Sunday--Saturday and costs $1,850 year-round. Details: Price does not include airfare to Rio. Contact: The Island Experience, 646/201-4505 or 011-55/21-2552-3500, theislandexperience.com. Buenos Aires for $599 Copa Airlines flights from Miami (via Panama City), transfers, five nights at the Regis Hotel, breakfast daily, and a half-day city tour. When: Until June 17 and Aug. 16--Dec. 5 ($599); June 18--Aug. 15 ($699). Other Gateways: New York ($789/$739), L.A. ($829/$929). Details: Extra nights from $24. Single supplement $120. Stop over in Panama City for $122 more--includes one night at the Hotel Marbella, transfers, and a half-day tour of the Miraflores Locks. Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. Colombia for $799 Copa Airlines flights from Miami to San Andrés Island (via Panama City), transfers, and six nights at the all-inclusive Royal Decamerón Aquarium Hotel. The beachfront resort has a pool, four restaurants, three bars, and a disco. When: Until Dec. 2. Other Gateways: New York (add $140), L.A. (add $220). Details: Extra nights $69. Single supplement $300. Contact: Tara Tours, 800/327-0080, taratours.com. Peru for $739 LanPeru flights from Miami, transfers, seven nights' lodging at tourist-class hotels (three in Lima and four in Cuzco), breakfast daily, one dinner, guided sightseeing by private bus, half-day tours of Lima and Cuzco, and local flights between cities. When: June 28 ($869), Aug. 30 ($799), Sept. 27 ($739). Other Gateways: New York (add $171), L.A. (add $206). Details: These are cash-discount prices; add 3 percent for credit card payments. Create your own itinerary by adding on optional tours: full-day trip to Machu Picchu ($139) or to Sacred Valley and Ollantaytambo ($39). Extra nights from $16. Depending on international flight schedules, additional overnights in Lima may be required. Single supplement $161. Contact: Gate 1 Travel, 800/682-3333, gate1travel.com. Europe Budapest for $1,239 Malev flights from New York, a one-way transfer (airport to hotel), five nights at the three-star Hotel Erzsébet, breakfast daily, a three-day Budapest card (all public transportation, discounts at attractions), a cruise on the Danube River, and a traditional Hungarian dinner at Owl's Castle. When: June 1--Aug. 31. Other Gateways: Czech Airlines flights from Boston (add $56), D.C. (add $84), Chicago (add $116), Miami (add $190), Dallas (add $263), L.A. (add $411). Details: Extra nights from $59. Single supplement from $204. Contact: Tradesco Tours, 800/448-4321, tradescotours.com. Europe Cruise for $1,099 Ten days aboard Princess Cruises' Golden Princess on a round-trip sailing from Southampton, England. The itinerary includes two days at sea and stops in Zeebrugge, Belgium; Oslo, Norway; Copenhagen, Denmark; Hamburg, Germany (optional trip to Berlin); Rotterdam, Netherlands; and Le Havre, France (optional trip to Paris). When: June 1 ($1,099 inside cabin/$1,198 outside cabin); June 21 ($1,199/$1,298); July 11, 31 ($1,399/$1,498). Details: Prices include port charges but not airfare. Call for the singles price. Contact: GalaxSea Cruises and Tours, 800/662-5450, cruisestar.com. Ireland for $449 A seven-day economy car rental and seven nights in one of 19 cottages or apartments throughout Ireland. The $449 price is based on the Cronebeg Apartments in Lahinch, County Clare. When: All rentals run Saturday to Saturday. June 1--30 (from $449), July 1--31 (from $539), Aug. 1--31 (from $709). Details: This is a land-only price; it does not include airfare. Rentals are only offered by the week. Single supplement from $449. Quadruple occupancy and a larger car, from $259 per person. Add flights from New York starting at roughly $529. Contact: Brian Moore International Tours, 800/982-2299, bmit.com. Prague for $788 Czech Airlines flights from Montreal, New York, or Toronto, transfers, six nights at the three-star Hotel U Sladku, breakfast daily, and a half-day city tour. When: July 1--Aug. 31 ($1,112), Sept. 1--Oct. 30 ($788). Other Gateways: Boston (add $26); D.C. (add $34); Chicago (add $108); Miami, Orlando (add $152); L.A., (add $290). Details: Extra nights $35. Single supplement from $65. Contact: Summit International Travel, 800/247-1142, summittours.com. Russia for $1,699 Finnair flights from New York to St. Petersburg (via Helsinki), transfers, five nights in three-star hotels (three in St. Petersburg, two in Moscow), an overnight train between cities, breakfast daily, guided sightseeing throughout, including tours of the Kremlin and the Hermitage, and an evening performance in each city. When: Thursday departures June 1--Sept. 14. Other Gateways: Boston, D.C. (add $150); Dallas, Miami (add $310); L.A., San Francisco (add $375). Details: Extra nights from $130. Single supplement from $255. Contact: Eastern Tours, 800/339-6967, traveltorussia.com. Spain for $889 Air from New York to Madrid and a seven-day Hertz car rental with unlimited miles. Create your own itinerary and book your own hotels. When: June 23--Aug. 31. Other Gateways: Boston ($909); D.C. ($939); Atlanta ($989); Miami ($1,009); Chicago ($1,029); Dallas ($1,049); L.A., San Francisco ($1,159); Phoenix, Seattle ($1,169). Details: Extra days with car from $33. Single supplement $90. Contact: Go-today.com, 800/227-3235, go-today.com. Vienna for $1,169 Austrian Airlines flights from New York, transfers, six nights at the three-star Hotel Post, breakfast daily, and a half-day city tour. When: June 1--Aug. 31. Other Gateways: Boston (from $1,199); D.C., Philadelphia (from $1,209); Chicago (from $1,269); Atlanta, Miami (from $1,298); Houston (from $1,309); Denver, L.A., San Francisco, Seattle (from $1,349). Details: Extra nights from $79. Single supplement from $189. Contact: Tatra Travel, 800/321-2999, austrian-vacations.com. Africa & Middle East Take a Walk on the Wild Side in Zambia for $3,232 Zambia's pristine Luangwa Valley is known both for spectacular game viewing--lions, elephants, leopards--and for the unique walking safaris offered there in the dry season, June through September. Spend two days at Mfuwe Lodge with two game drives daily. Then head south for four nights in the more remote Bushcamps of Kuyenda, Chamilandu, Chendeni, and Bilimungwe. (Most guests opt to split their time between two camps, but it's possible stay one night in each, depending on availability.) Take two walking safaris daily and drive between camps, or walk from camp to camp. Lion World Tours' 11-day, 8-night package includes South African Airways flights from Atlanta or New York to Johannesburg, all transfers and local flights, one night at the Grand Hotel near Jo'burg Airport, and seven nights in Zambia's South Luangwa National Park (three nights at Mfuwe Lodge and four at the Bushcamps), all game drives/walks and meals while on safari, and park entry fees. When: June 1--8 ($3,232), June 9--Aug. 20 ($4,199), Aug. 22--99 ($3,899), Sept. 1--30 ($3,399). Other Gateways: D.C., Miami (add $140); Chicago, St. Louis (add $180); L.A., Seattle (add $260). Details: Single supplement $575. Add three days at Victoria Falls for $799. Contact: Lion World Tours, 800/387-2706, lionworldtravel.com. Botswana for $2,995 South African Airways flights from Atlanta or New York to Victoria Falls (via Johannesburg), local flights and transfers, one night in Johannesburg at the Airport Grand Hotel, six nights at the Chobe Safari Lodge, breakfast daily, dinner daily at Chobe, and a total of 10 activities--game drives, cruises on the Chobe River, a 30-minute scenic flight over the national park, and an excursion to Victoria Falls. When: Until June 8, Aug. 21--Sept. 30 ($2,995); June 9--Aug. 20 ($3,295). Other Gateways: None. Details: Extend your stay in Africa for up to two months. Single supplement $300. Contact: 2Afrika, 866/462-2374, 2afrika.com. South Africa for $2,079 South African Airways flights from Atlanta or New York, an eight-day car rental, seven nights' lodging (three in Cape Town at the City Lodge V&A Waterfront, two along the Garden Route at the Knysna Quays Waterfront, and two on safari at Kariega Lodge in the Kariega Game Reserve), breakfast daily, a half-day tour of Cape Town, and all meals at Kariega. When: June 1--Aug. 31 ($2,234); Sept. 1--Oct. 31 ($2,079). Other Gateways: Miami, Philadelphia (add $200); L.A. (add $300). Details: Extra nights from $75 in Cape Town, $120 at Knysna Quays, $260 at Kariega Lodge. Single supplement from $782. Contact: South African Airways Holidays, 888/777-1138, saaholidays.net. Asia Bali for $899 Singapore Airlines flights from L.A. or San Francisco, transfers, and five nights at the Grand Balisani Suites with breakfast daily. When: Until June 5 and Aug. 22--Dec. 5 ($899); June 6--Aug. 21 ($1,174). Other Gateways: Denver (add $175), New York (add $200), Chicago (add $295), Dallas (add $325). Details: Extra nights $25. Single supplement $125. Contact: Sayang Holidays, 888/472-9264, sayangholidays.com. China Tour & Yangtze River Cruise for $2,795 Air from L.A., San Francisco, or Seattle to Beijing (return flight is from Hong Kong), 15 nights' hotel and four nights aboard a Regal China cruise ship, most meals, 11 tours (including Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong), and more. When: June 21, 23, 27 ($2,795); July 4, 11, 12, 19, 21 ($2,895); Aug. 1, 4, 8 ($2,795); Aug. 11, 16, 18, 20, 22, 23 ($2,995); Aug 27 ($3,195). Other Gateways: Chicago, Houston (add $100); New York (add $150). Details: Geared toward people over the age of 50. Single supplement add $695. Contact: Grand Circle Travel, 800/248-3737, gct.com. India & Nepal Tour for $2,640 Singapore Airlines flights from L.A. to New Delhi, transfers, local transportation and flights, 15 nights' lodging and one overnight train, and guided sightseeing throughout. The 20-day itinerary includes visits to New Delhi, Jaipur, Varanasi, Agra, and the Taj Mahal in India, and Royal Chitwan National Park and Kathmandu in Nepal. When: June 1 ($2,640); June 29, July 27, Aug. 17 ($2,765); Sept. 7, Oct. 5 ($2,515). Other Gateways: New York (from $2,595), Chicago (from $2,810). Details: Add roughly $250 per week for expenses. Single supplement $300. Contact: Djoser, 877/356-7376, djoserusa.com. Tokyo for $929 Singapore Airlines flights from L.A., transfers, five nights at the Tokyo Hilton, and a half-day city tour. When: Sunday--Thursday departures June 5--Aug. 21 ($1,049) and Aug. 22--Dec. 5 ($929). Other Gateways: None. Details: Add $50 for weekend travel. Extra nights $85. Single supplement $399. Add three days in Kyoto for $320 (includes bullet train and two nights at the Rihga Royal Hotel). Contact: Escapes Unlimited, 800/243-7227, escapesltd.com. South Pacific Bora-Bora for $1,689 Air Tahiti Nui flights from L.A., transfers, interisland flights, and six nights' lodging (one at the Sheraton Hotel Tahiti in Papeete and five at the Novotel Bora-Bora Beach Resort). When: Monday and Thursday departures until Oct. 31. Other Gateways: San Francisco (add from $180); New York, Seattle (add from $300); Houston (add from $360); Chicago (add from $400). Details: Extra nights from $120. Single supplement from $410. Contact: Islands in the Sun, 800/828-6877, islandsinthesun.com. Fiji for $2,249 Air Pacific flights from L.A., two nights at the First Landing Resort, three nights aboard the Mystique Princess on a four-day cruise of the Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands, and all meals while on the ship. When: June 1--17, July 19--Aug. 26 ($2,249); June 18--July 18 ($2,299). Other Gateways: Phoenix (add from $135), Seattle (add from $300), Houston (add from $390), New York (add from $455). Details: Extra nights from $88. Single supplement from $570. Contact: Air Pacific and Brendan Worldwide Vacations, 800/421-8446, airpacificusa.com. Australia Australia for $2,369 Qantas flights from L.A., transfers, 15 nights' lodging (four nights in Sydney, seven in Tasmania, and four in Melbourne), a Sydney Harbour cruise or Sydney by Divas tour, a seven-day car rental in Tasmania, and dinner at the Colonial Tramcar Restaurant in Melbourne. When: Until June 17, July 19--Aug. 26 ($2,369); June 18--July 18, Aug. 27--Dec. 5 ($2,669). Other Gateways: San Francisco (add $125); New York, Orlando (add $455). Details: Call for the extra-night price. Single supplement $1,130. Contact: Newmans South Pacific Vacations, 888/592-6224, newmansvacations.com. New Zealand New Zealand for Families for $3,491 Air New Zealand flights from L.A. to Christchurch (return flight is from Auckland) and a 12-day Spirit 4 camper-van rental (four berths, shower, toilet, and a kitchenette). Prices start at $3,491 for a family of three or $3,993 for a family of four (kids 16 or under). When: June 1--Aug. 26. Other Gateways: San Francisco (add from $140 per person), Dallas (add from $394), New York (add from $458). Details: Extra days from $70 per family. A six-berth Spirit 6 starts at $4,073 for four; additional adults $999 per, additional kids $499 per. Contact: Goway Travel, 800/387-8850, goway.com.

Travel Tips

Eat Like a Local: California's Monterey Peninsula

Many of the restaurants on California's Monterey Peninsula are aimed at out-of-towners. Lovely views of the sunset on Monterey Bay are supposed to compensate for overpriced, mediocre food, all too often served in faux seafaring surroundings. The best spots, not surprisingly, are more inconspicuous, beyond the bustle. Visitors make the mistake of heading to Fisherman's Wharf in Monterey, but a far better place for fresh seafood is unassuming Monterey's Fish House, on a busy road near the eastern edge of town. From spring through late fall, local salmon (around $15) is likely to be on the menu. Huge, tender prawns, straight out of the Bay, are a delicious splurge--order them grilled ($29). Most fish comes grilled, blackened, pan-fried, or sautéed with butter, lemon, and capers. And all the wines on the restaurant's list are available by the glass, a rarity. Opt for one of the Monterey char-donnays, like Bernardus, Morgan, or Chalone. If you simply can't give up looking out at the Bay, funky Loulou's Griddle in the Middle on Municipal Wharf No. 2 serves a mean breakfast and lunch. At breakfast, the banana griddle cakes arrive perfectly fluffy ($5.50). Egg dishes, from simple omelets to scrambled eggs with squid, come with home fries sprinkled with tomato, caramelized onion, basil, and Parmesan. A huge cup of clam chowder is thick without being gloppy, and filling enough to make a light lunch ($4). The local sand dabs--a type of flounder--are tender and delicate ($10). They're served in a sandwich, but it turns soppy too quickly. Getting them on a plate with crispy fries is a better way to go. You'd hardly expect to find a French bistro among the supermarkets and gas stations of Highway 68 in Pacific Grove, Monterey's neighbor to the west. But Fifi's Café Bistro is a little slice of Paris at a reasonable price; nothing tops $20. The homey coq au vin--two chicken leg quarters with carrots, onions, mushrooms, and potatoes in a rich wine sauce--is a frequent special ($15). And the steaming bowl of mussels could just as easily be found at a Parisian café ($7.50 as an appetizer and $15.75 as an entrée with French fries). The Monterey Peninsula has plenty of Mexican restaurants, but one of the best is Zócalo, with locations in Pacific Grove and downtown Monterey. Meals start with warm chips and two salsas, one version made with roasted tomatoes, the other with tomatillos. Pozole--a pork and hominy stew more often found in Mexican homes than in restaurants--is dense and flavorful, and accompanied by Zócalo's handmade flour or corn tortillas ($7.75). Those tortillas also wrap succulent grilled fresh snapper in the fish tacos ($9.75). Chile rellenos are juicy and coated in a light egg batter ($7 at lunch, $10.50 at dinner). Copies of The Surfer's Journal by the door and surfing snapshots by the register are clues that the old-fashioned Little Swiss Café in Carmel is popular with dudes looking to fuel up before hitting the beach. The soft cheese blintzes are a specialty ($6.50). And the eggs Benedict are the best around ($10). If only the coffee were as rich as the Hollandaise sauce. A playful mural--it's said to depict the Dutch countryside in four seasons, but it somehow includes the Eiffel Tower and the Leaning Tower of Pisa--spans three of the walls and provides silly eye candy. A fun alternative to Carmel's haute dining is a picnic on the beach. Stock up on provisions at The Cheese Shop on the lower level of the Carmel Plaza Shopping Center, next door to Chico's. Owner Kent Torrey is generous with the samples. The shop carries about 300 varieties from nearly 20 countries. (Nothing local, though--Monterey Jack was popularized in the area in the 1880s, but golf courses replaced pasture land, and the best Jack cheese now comes from Sonoma.) There's also bread from the Palermo Bakery in nearby Seaside, and an impressive selection of international wines. Two local standouts: the 2003 Kali Hart char-donnay ($13) from Talbott Vineyards, and the pinot noir from the Krutz Family Cellars ($25). Carmel Beach is just down the hill. Lay down a blanket, and take in the most authentic seascape around. Restaurants Monterey's Fish House 2114 Del Monte Ave., Monterey, 831/373-4647 Loulou's Griddle in the Middle Municipal Wharf No. 2, Monterey, 831/ 372-0568 Zócalo 481 Alvarado St., Monterey, 831/373-0228, and 162 Fountain Ave., Pacific Grove, 831/ 373-7911 Fifi's Café Bistro 1188 Forest Ave., Pacific Grove, 831/372-5325 Little Swiss Café Sixth Ave. between Dolores and Lincoln Aves., Carmel, 831/624-5007 The Cheese Shop Carmel Plaza Shopping Center, Carmel, 831/625-2272

When The Snow Melts, Ski Resorts Are Just Getting Warmed Up

Snowbird, Utah Festival: As part of the Wasatch Wildflower Festival, guides run free wildflower walks from the top of Snowbird (July 29 to August 1, 801/947-8263, wasatchwildflowerfestival.org, $5 tram ride to where the walk starts). Off-Mountain Adventure: A half hour away, Solitude resort has an 18-hole Frisbee golf course where they'll let you play free rounds if you're willing to hike it (801/534-1400, skisolitude.com). Only Here: Grab a six-pack of locally brewed Polygamy Porter. The beer's slogan is "Why Have Just One!" Lodging: Snowbird's Mountain Escape package includes a room at The Inn, breakfast, and a scenic tram trip or a ride down the Alpine Slide luge (800/232-9542, $59 per person per night based on doubles). Info: Snowbird.com. Telluride, Colorado Great Hike: Two miles east of Telluride, the Bridal Veil Falls trail ends at a 365-foot waterfall. En route, the 1,200-foot climb traverses territory that is home to bighorn sheep and marmots. Pick up the Telluride Hiking Guide at Between the Covers (224 W. Colorado Ave., 970/369-0967, $14). Festival: Local frustration at a glut of scheduled merrymaking prompted the Nothing Festival (July 21 to 25, telluridenothingfestival.com). Tie One On: Regulars know the Last Dollar Saloon as the Buck (100 E. Colorado Ave., 970/728-4800). Lodging: The Mountain Lodge at Telluride has three rustic log-and-stone buildings furnished in leather, granite, and earth tones (457 Mountain Village Blvd., 866/368-6867, from $99). Info: Tellurideskiresort.com. Whistler, British Columbia Great Hike: An ambitious day hike, the seven-mile path to Singing Pass climbs 3,281 feet. The reward is a gorgeous view of two mountain ranges and a glacier. Only Here: A mass of ice over 270 feet thick guarantees snow on Whistler's Blackcomb glacier even in July. The resort is open for skiing nine months out of the year--November through July--so odds are good that mountain bikers, skiers, and sightseers will share a gondola (day pass $20). Lodging: The Summer Peak Adventure package includes four nights' accommodations in the village and one daylong lift pass per guest for the Peak Chair, which goes directly to the summit (800/944-7853, $170 per person). Info: Whistlerblackcomb.com. Squaw Valley, California Off-Mountain Adventure: : Spend the day tubing the Truckee River. Pick up a tube for $15 at a gas station, or shoot the rapids with Truckee River Rafting (888/584-7238, truckeeriverrafting.com, $32). After Sunset: In July and August, PG movies screen for free in the outdoor village plaza on Thursdays at dusk. Only Here: A cable car drops you at a heated pool and a skating rink at High Camp, just below the summit (cable car $19, pool $5, rink $3). Lodging: Two-bedroom condos in The Village at Squaw start at $179 (877/297-2140, thevillageatsquaw.com). Info: Squaw.com. Aspen/Snowmass, Colorado Great Hike: A two-and-a-half-hour hike in the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area leads to spectacular American Lake. Festival: The Aspen Music Festival hosts concerts in various indoor halls and the permanent 2,050 seat Benedict Music Tent. Even non-- ticket holders can enjoy the music from the lawn beyond the tent. There are also musicians busking all day long (June 22 to August 21, 970/925-9042, aspenmusicfestival.com). After Sunset: The Snowmass Village Rodeo is Wednesday and Saturday nights June 22 to August 27 (Rodeo Grounds, Brush Creek Rd., 970/ 923-8898, $16). Tie One On: Little Annie's has the cheapest drinks in town (517 E. Hyman Ave., 970/925-1098). If you overdo it, Aspen offers a year-round Tipsy Taxi service, which gives drinkers a free ride home. Ask your bartender. Lodging: Two condo complexes downtown--Chateau Chaumont and Chateau Dumont--have packages that include a two-bedroom condo, free airport transfers, and complimentary Aspen Club & Spa privileges (877/636-4626, from $53 per person based on groups of four). Info: Aspensnowmass.com. Jackson Hole, Wyoming Great Hike: From the Jenny Lake parking lot in Grand Teton National Park, hike two miles around the lake toward Cascade Canyon. Beyond the lake, a brook bordering the trail hints at the splendor half a mile further--the 80-foot Hidden Falls (307/739-3399, nps.gov/grte, weeklong car pass $20). Off-Mountain Adventure: Jackson Hole Whitewater runs four-hour trips on the Snake River (800/700-7238, jhww.com, from $44). Tie One On: The Million Dollar Cowboy Bar uses saddles as bar stools (25 N. Cache St., Jackson, 307/733-2207). Only Here: Watch the Jackson Hole Shootout--a mock gunfight--from the roof of the Rancher bar every day but Sunday at 6:15 p.m. (20 E. Broadway, Jackson, 307/733-3886). Family Fun: Kids Ranch Summer Day Camp in Teton Village (at the base of the Jackson Hole resort) has hiking and arts and crafts (307/739-2691, from $75). Lodging: The Cowboy Up package includes three nights in a two-bedroom condo in Teton Village, an aerial tram ride, a horseback ride, and passes to the Jackson Hole Rodeo (from $159 per person). Or plan your adventures à la carte from a two-bedroom with kitchenette at Jackson Hole's Village Center Inn (from $185; for both properties, the contact is 800/443-8613). Info: Jacksonhole.com. Vail, Colorado Great Hike: Wander through aspen groves on the two-mile hike to Booth Creek Falls, a 60-foot waterfall. Pick up a map from Vail Information, upstairs at the Transportation Center in the village, where you can also catch the free bus to the trailhead (970/479-1394). Festival: Last year's Big Wheel 'n Chili party in Vail Village hosted a cook-off, beer festival, and Big Wheel race. This year's event, on June 25, may feature barnyard animals (970/477-0111). Off-Mountain Adventure: Mount Massive Golf Course in Leadville offers 18 holes for $29 (259 County Road 5, 719/486-2176). Family Fun: Camp Vail entertains kids 5 to 12 with hiking, drama, and even golf (970/479-2292, vailrec.com, $62). Lodging: The Choose Your Own Adventure package includes four nights' lodging at one of the many inns in and around Vail Village, car rental, round-trip airfare from Dallas, Chicago, or L.A., and an activity of your choice, such as rafting or horseback riding (877/750-8245, from $699 per person). Or the Holiday Inn has rooms from $89 (2211 N. Frontage Rd., 970/476-2739). Info: Vail.com. Big Mountain, Montana Great Hike: The Walk in the Treetops, along a 1,000-foot boardwalk up to 70 feet in the air, is much more about the view than the distance you'll cover (406/862-2900, half-day outing $48, includes a snack, water, and souvenir fanny pack). Festival: This year marks Whitefish's 100th anniversary. The town's party includes an art and music festival (August 12 to 14, 877/862-3548). Tie One On: For $8, the Dire Wolf Pub will fill a half-gallon jug with one of its beers on tap for you to take out--ask for a Growler (845 Wisconsin Ave., 406/862-4500). Lodging: At Hibernation House on Big Mountain, you can get a room with a queen-size bed, two bunks, hot-tub access, free laundry service, and free breakfast (800/858-4152, from $65). Info: Bigmtn.com.

'We Want To Tour Germany Without Boring Our Daughter'

Last year, René and Andy Reed, of Mission Viejo, Calif., went to Hong Kong and were dazzled by the bustling city. The year before that, they enjoyed a peaceful driving tour of southwestern England. For both trips, their daughter, Jenna, stayed behind with friends and relatives. But after a recent vacation to Washington, D.C., where all three Reeds had a great time, Andy and René felt that Jenna was ready for her first trip overseas. Touring the medieval villages, castles, and gorgeous countryside along Germany's famed Romantic Road seemed like a good fit. "We want to focus on a small portion of the country and not rush too much," René wrote to us. "We're looking to see as many sights as possible but at the same time have an easygoing, relaxing trip." Andy bought a few guidebooks and did some Internet research to put together an eight-night itinerary. The route planner at viamichelin.com and tiscover.de, a German booking engine and tourist source, proved especially helpful. Andy and René mapped out the trip to include visits to the medieval city of Rothenburg and two famous castles near Füssen. They booked lodging on their own but contacted us for advice about sights that would make the trip especially fun for Jenna. "Our daughter really likes traveling," René wrote. "She's into art and history and castles, as well as typical kid stuff--adventure, animals, and such." One of the Reeds' first questions was whether to stick to Germany or dip into neighboring countries. We said concentrating on Germany was the way to go. There's no shortage of worthwhile destinations while touring the Romantic Road and Bavaria. Moreover, the experience is already like visiting several countries, given the strong regional identities that developed over Germany's long history of being divided into many small states. After picking up their rental car in Frankfurt, the Reeds will drive 75 miles southeast to the baroque city of Würzburg, where the Romantic Road officially begins. We suggested that their first stop should be the Residenz, the immense, 18th-century palace of the local prince-bishops. This UNESCO World Heritage site arguably surpasses any of Europe's royal residences, thanks to the marvelous design of Balthasar Neumann. An unknown when the Residenz was built, Neumann is widely considered the greatest architect of his era. Behind the beige, relatively understated facade are more than 300 ornately decorated rooms. At the center of the horseshoe-shaped palace is the treppenhaus, a grand stairway in an all-white room. Given Jenna's interest in animals, she's sure to want to see Wildpark, one of the largest zoos in Europe. It's less than an hour from Würzburg in the spa town of Bad Mergentheim. Many of the animals live not in cages but in environments approximating their natural habitats. There are otters, bears, and birds of prey, but the big attraction--albeit kind of a creepy one--is a pack of wolves that emerges from the forest to eat their fill before disappearing back into the woods. The Reeds will spend two nights at Rothenburg ob der Tauber, about an hour south on the Romantic Road. Encircled by stone walls from the 13th century, Rothenburg is worth the visit even with the summer crowds. We recommended walking around the walls and climbing up the tower of the Rathaus (town hall) to gaze down on the compact old city. Nearby are several attractions that appeal to kids. Käthe Wohlfahrt is Europe's largest year-round Christmas store, with a 12-foot-high nutcracker and a towering tree decorated with more than 1,000 glass balls and 7,000 lights. The Puppen & Spielzeug Museum houses a huge collection of historic dolls and toys. And then there's the Figurentheater, famous for its puppet shows. Performances are in German, but the puppeteers include some material in English and anyone can enjoy the broad humor. With a full day to cover the remaining 160 miles to Füssen, the Reeds have time for several quick stops. At Schillingsfürst castle, falcons, eagles, and vultures fly during three daily demonstrations. Farther on are two medieval towns that, like Rothenburg, are surrounded by preserved walls: Dinkelsbühl, with its cobblestone streets and 16th-century homes, and quaint Nördlingen, which lies in the heart of the Ries, a moonscape formed 15 million years ago by a meteorite. Toward the end of the Romantic Road, the isolated Wieskirche (Meadow Church) is not to be missed. What's most interesting here, beyond the rococo extravagance of the building, is the reason the Wieskirche was built. In the late 1730s, word spread that tears had appeared in the eyes of the Scourged Savior, a statue of Jesus shackled in chains. Pilgrims flooded the area to see the statue--it was said to work miracles--and a richly decorated church, completed in 1754, was constructed to welcome them. In order to avoid the worst of the crowds, we recommended the Reeds leave early from their hotel in Füssen for visits to Schloss Neuschwanstein, the most outrageous of the fantasy castles commissioned by King Ludwig II of Bavaria (and inspiration for the faux castles at Disney parks), and the adjacent Schloss Hohenschwangau, which was built for his father, Maximilian II. A short, rewarding hike leads up behind Neuschwanstein to the Marienbrücke, a slender iron bridge that spans postcard views of the castle and surrounding mountains. Alternatively, they could drive to Schloss Linderhof, the only one of "Mad" Ludwig's castles actually completed during his lifetime. It's in a park dotted with follies, including a pavilion with a throne framed by enamel and wrought-iron peacocks. The following day, the Reeds will drive to the small town of Maulbronn, clustered around an impressive, well-preserved medieval monastery. The Kloster Maulbronn is a compound of more than 30 buildings, most constructed between 1150 and 1390, with a remarkable irrigation network of canals, drains, and reservoirs that still distributes water. Back on the castle track, we steered the Reeds to nearby Schloss Lichtenstein, set magnificently on a high, narrow peak. It remains the property of the Urach family, who had it built more than 150 years ago. If the Reeds are feeling ambitious, they can check out the Urachs' original seat, the spa town of Bad Urach, home to many cute, half-timbered buildings so characteristic of central Germany. From Maulbronn, the Reeds will continue on to Speyer; its 11th-century Kaiserdom (Imperial Cathedral) was once the largest church in the West. Speyer has a distinguished culinary tradition: It is widely considered the birthplace of brezel, the salted bread that, across the Atlantic, became the pretzel. Fresh, hot pretzels cost about 50¢ at bakeries throughout Germany, and Speyer is a good place to give them a taste test. The Reeds will spend their last three nights at the village of Beilstein, on the River Mosel. We suggested they take a relaxing cruise on either the Mosel or the Rhine and let the pretty scenery of waterside towns, steep vineyards, crumbling castles, and rocky outcrops come to them. Depending on their mood, they can book an all-day voyage or hop from one village to the next as they please. Before the Reeds return to Frankfurt for the flight home, there's one final castle. Owned by the same family and kept largely intact for more than 800 years, Burg Eltz is in a remote wooded valley near the Mosel. While touring the soaring stone building, with four separate residences and multiple turrets and towers, it's easy to envision living like a king--or a princess--during the Middle Ages. Transportation K-D Line 011-49/2212-088318, k-d.com, riverboat trip from $3.50 round trip Attractions Residenz Würzburg, 011-49/931-355170, schloesser.bayern.de, $5.75 Wildpark Bad Mergentheim, 011-49/7931-41344, wildtierpark.de, $10.25 Käthe Wohlfahrt Herrngasse 1, Rothenburg, 011-49/9861-4090, wohlfahrt.com Puppen & Spielzeug Museum Hofbronnengasse 13, Rothenburg, 011-49/9861-7330, spielzeugmuseum.rothenburg.de, $5.15 Figurentheater Herrngasse 38, Rothenburg, 011-49/9861-3333, figurentheater-rothenburg.de, from $10.25 Schillingsfürst 011-49/9868-201, schloss-schillingsfuerst.de, $9 Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau 011-49/8362-930830, neuschwanstein.de, hohenschwangau.de, joint ticket $22, parking $5.15 Schloss Linderhof Ettal, 011-49/8822-920349, linderhof.de, $9 Kloster Maulbronn 011-49/7043-926610, maulbronn.de, $6.50 Schloss Lichtenstein 011-49/7129-4102, schloss-lichtenstein.de, $5.15 Burg Eltz Münstermaifeld, 011-49/2672-950500, burg-eltz.de, $7.75 Resources Tiscover Deutschland burg-eltz.de Michelin Route Planner viamichelin.com Romantic Road Tourism 011-49/9851-90271, romanticroad.de