20 Tips

Thelma & Louise Thelma, an unhappy housewife (Geena Davis), and Louise, a world-weary waitress (Susan Sarandon), take off in a green '66 Thunderbird convertible for a relaxing weekend at a friend's cabin. A run-in with a rapist and a few gunshots later, their legendary trip gives new meaning to the term girlfriend getaway. That said, flooring it into the abyss won't leave a whole lot of options for next year's adventure. TAKE AWAY: Always rent a convertible. You never know when it'll be your last road trip. How Stella Got Her Groove Back It's early midlife crisis time for impossibly sexy Stella (Angela Bassett), who takes a vacation from her hotshot stockbroker gig and heads to the tropics with pal Delilah (Whoopi Goldberg). Sure, the girl chats on the beach are nice, but this flick is all about the groove-giver, Winston Shakespeare, a younger man with killer abs (thank you for existing, Taye Diggs), who single-handedly raises the temperature in Jamaica. TAKE AWAY: Think twice before importing your vacation man to the mainland. Blue Crush Tough-but-perky Anne Marie (Kate Bosworth) splits her time between caring for her kid sister (Mika Boorem) and training with her pal (Michelle Rodriguez) to compete in Pipe Masters, a traditionally all-male surfing competition in Hawaii. Think of it as a female The Fast and the Furious, with lots of water and luau love mixed in. TAKE AWAY: Surfers are hot. Join them. Enchanted April A couple of highbrow Londoners (Miranda Richardson and Josie Lawrence) ditch their husbands for an entire month to live la dolce vita with rent-sharing pals (Joan Plowright and Polly Walker) at San Salvatore, a stunningly beautiful villa on the Italian Riviera. TAKE AWAY: A fabulous destination can make annoying travel companions more bearable. Boys on the Side Jane (Whoopi Goldberg) is a nightclub singer sharing the car ride from New York to Tucson with Robin (Mary-Louise Parker) and Holly (Drew Barrymore). Much heavy-handed estro-bonding ensues: Jane is a lesbian! Robin is HIV-positive! Holly was abused! TAKE AWAY: Belting out "Shame, Shame, Shame" should be banned.

The location of much of the city's corporate activity, Downtown has undergone serious gentrification in recent years. Amid the historic and modern high-rises is a surprising mix of ethnic restaurants. SEE Museum of Contemporary Art 250 S. Grand Ave., 213/626-6222, moca.org Excellent interactive museum with works by modern masters, including Jackson Pollock, Diane Arbus, and Andy Warhol. The gift shop sells an impressive array of cards, T-shirts, prints, and art books. $8, free Thurs. 5 p.m.--8 p.m. Closed Tues. and Wed. SEE Olvera Street 125 Paseo de La Plaza, 213/485-6855, olvera-street.com Colorful Mexican street market with vendors selling tacos, sombreros, and handcrafted maracas. Mariachis roam the street on weekends, and it bustles during fiestas like Day of the Dead (Nov. 1--2) and Cinco de Mayo (May 5). SEE Walt Disney Concert Hall 111 S. Grand Ave., 323/850-2000, musiccenter.org/wdchFrank Gehry's metallic masterpiece draws visitors to Downtown for its exterior, but the stunning interiors, the gardens, and the thrilling performances of its resident companies, the Los Angeles Philharmonic and Los Angeles Master Chorale, are also noteworthy. $15 for one-hour guided tours of the building and gardens (check the calendar for schedule); $10 for self-guided audio tours, available most days 10 a.m.--3 p.m.; $10 for the 30-minute Lunchtime Express Tour. Note: The auditorium itself is off-limits to tours because of its constant use for rehearsals and performances. Your best bet for access is to buy a ticket and experience the acoustics firsthand. Tickets from $15. EAT Grand Central Market 317 S. Broadway, 213/624-2378, grandcentralsquare.com Wall-to-wall booths sell every kind of cheap food and drink, but this is more than a source for quick-bite tacos or to-go bowls of pad thai; you'll also find exotic spices and fresh produce. EAT Yang Chow 819 N. Broadway, 213/625-0811, yangchow.com General Tseng's chicken, moo shu pork, steamed dumplings, kung pao shrimp, and an even more authentic selection of well-priced lunch specials. The kitchen is accommodating and can make some dishes with veggies only. DRINK Rooftop Bar at the Standard Hotel 550 S. Flower St., 213/892-8080, standardhotel.com This alfresco party spot is still going strong, and it's made André Balazs's ultramod hotel a landmark. Hop in the pool if it's hot out, or watch the city light up at dusk. Weekend nights can get raucous. Call ahead to make sure there isn't a private party. Free; $20 after 7 p.m. Fri. and Sat. SHOP American Apparel 312 W. 5th St., 213/593-1394, americanapparel.net T-shirts, retro running shorts, and underwear that have taken the fashion basics world by storm with sweatshop-free production and fabrics, including unbleached organic cotton. Items come in every color. SHOP Santee Alley East of S. Santee St., between E. Olympic and E. 12th Sts., fashiondistrict.org The city's best designer knockoffs. Well-made faux Fendis and Louis Vuittons start at $20 for wallets and $100 and up for luggage and pet carriers. It's hard to find (there are no location markers to help out, and street signs are small), so park at one of the many rooftop parking areas nearby (from $5/day) and walk to the alley. Not recommended for claustrophobes. PLAY L.A. Derby Dolls derbydolls.comAll-female roller derby. Team names include the Trust Fund Terrors and the Tough Cookies. The website has schedule and locations (and killer photos). ESCAPE The South Bay Beach Cities A string of seaside communities, old-school surf towns, and beautiful beaches that are literally a breath of fresh air. Redondo Beach: Spend a lazy day strolling the scenic esplanade with a view of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, and then browse the charming homegrown shops in Riviera Village, such as Harmony Works (1705 S. Catalina Ave., 310/791-7104) and Soil (1799 S. Catalina Ave., 310/791-2265, soil.us). The Redondo Beach Brewery (1814 Catalina Ave., 310/316-8477, redondobrewery.com) is a local favorite. Hermosa Beach: To the north of Redondo Beach. A good place for nightlife. Catch Jay Leno testing new material at the Comedy and Magic Club (1018 Hermosa Ave., 310/372-1193, comedyandmagicclub.info, from $13.50 for smaller acts); get a manicure with your martini on Wednesdays at the Lighthouse Café (30 Pier Ave., 310/376-9833, thelighthousecafe.net); or chill out with rowdy old-timers at the kitschy Mermaid bar (11 Pier Ave., 310/374-9344). Manhattan Beach: A few blocks north of Hermosa Beach. The most upscale beach city on the South Bay, with trendy shops and fine dining. For after-hours dancing, try Chakra (304 12th St., 310/545-1881, $5). To get to all three, follow the Pacific Coast Highway south. Redondo Beach, the furthest away, is only 20 miles south of Los Angeles.

Formerly the film industry's center, Hollywood is now filled with more tourists than movie execs. The L.A. Zoo and Griffith Park, one of the biggest green spaces in any U.S. city, are nearby in calmer Los Feliz. SEE Hollywood Forever Cemetery 6000 Santa Monica Blvd., 323/469-1181, hollywoodforever.com A haunt that's pure Hollywood. This functioning funeral home and cemetery is the resting place for Rudolph Valentino and Cecil B. DeMille, among many others. Curious visitors can view the deceaseds' "LifeStories" on television screens found on kiosks throughout the park. In summer, cult movies are shown, and the grounds turn into a picnic area. Call for a calendar of events. Screenings are $10. EAT Lucy's el Adobe Cafe 5536 Melrose Ave., 323/462-9421 One of the best places for Mexican food in all of L.A.--everyone from studio executives to neighborhood regulars agrees. The cheap margaritas and hefty portions of chili and cheese enchiladas and arroz con pollo can't be beat. SPLURGE Geisha House 6633 Hollywood Blvd., 323/460-6300, geishahousehollywood.com A lot of Ashton Kutcher's money has gone into creating a unique experience at this übertrendy dinner hotspot. The decor is flashy and the clientele even flashier. Fireplaces, red lacquer tables, and pink and red lighting all work together to create a dramatic, almost theatrical, environment. The menu features new twists on old Japanese favorites (for sushi, try the Marilyn Monroll or Green Lawn Roll), and the cocktails are fit for an emperor. Great for large groups--sharing food is encouraged. Try the Five Spice Chocolate Mousse for dessert. DRINK The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel 7000 Hollywood Blvd., 800/950-7667, hollywoodroosevelt.com Just about any night of the week there's a private poolside party at the revitalized Hollywood hangout. Skip the hassle of bouncers and guest lists and go before sundown to have drinks in the linen bungalows at the new Tropicana Bar alongside the likes of Jake Gyllenhaal, Jessica Simpson, and Owen Wilson. SHOP Uncle Jer's 4459 W. Sunset Blvd., 323/662-6710 Uncle Jer's sells Eastern-inspired treasures--toys, jewelry, gifts, cards, magic potions--and the latest fashions from groovy higher-end brands like Free People, as well as surprisingly cheap vintage items. Free gift-wrapping. SHOP Y-Que Trading Post 1770 N. Vermont Ave., 323/664-0021, yque.comFamous for its T-shirts silk-screened with topical celeb slogans: FREE MARTHA, FREE WINONA, and RUN KATIE RUN. Y-Que strikes a mean bargain, offering slightly less-than-perfect tees for five smackeroos. They print custom-tees, too. PLAY Dodger Stadium 1000 Elysian Park Ave., 323/224-1500, losangeles.dodgers.mlb.com Check the L.A. Times sports pages or the Dodgers' website for a schedule of home games. From $12 for Reserve (midlevel) seats; from $75 for Field Box MVP; and for those who don't mind having a hot dog without the beer, there are alcohol-free Pavilion seats in the outfield, from $8. PLAY Lucky Strike Lanes 6801 Hollywood Blvd., entrance on N. Highland Ave., 323/467-7776, bowlluckystrike.com/hollywoodParties every night of the week make this an unlikely hotspot. It also supports up-and-coming video artists; check out the projection screens for the next big thing. Only bowlers of legal drinking age are allowed in after 7 p.m. From $5 per person, depending on the time and day of the week; $4 for shoe rental. PLAY Upright Citizens Brigade Theater 5919 Franklin Ave., 323/908-8702 Improv comedy at its best. Every weekend the one-hour shows pack 'em in, and there's no extra charge when celeb guest stars, such as Janeane Garofalo or Andy Dick, make surprise appearances. $8 weekends, $5 weeknights, sometimes no admission fee. Disneyland 1313 S. Harbor Blvd., 714/781-4565, Anaheim, disney.go.com About 35 miles south of LAX, Disney's first theme park has been recently rejuvenated for its 50th-birthday celebration, with new additions to Space Mountain and Sleeping Beauty's Castle. Some tips:   Looking for cheap souvenirs? For 50¢, penny-press machines create mementos emblazoned with one of 51 different events in park history. The most popular one--marking opening day in 1955--is in the Penny Arcade.   Disneyland offers a few unexpected and unadvertised extras. There's a baby-care center off Main Street with changing tables, rocking chairs, and nursing stations. If it's your birthday, swing by City Hall, where you can get a call from Goofy and an IT'S MY BIRTHDAY! sticker. Waiters at park restaurants may even sing to you or give you a dessert when they see the sticker.   On busy days, Splash Mountain quickly runs out of its allotted number of Fastpasses. Snag one in the morning, even if you don't want to get soaked until the sun comes out. You won't be allowed on earlier than your assigned time, but you can board late (works with other rides, too).

Beverly Hills, with its grand gated homes, tall palm trees, and expensive boutiques, epitomizes Hollywood glamour. Just to the north lies much funkier (and very gay) West Hollywood, a.k.a. WeHo. EAT Sprinkles Cupcakes 9635 Little Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310/274-8765, sprinklescupcakes.com Each day's flavor choices are different. Favorites include the red velvet with cream cheese icing and the lemon with coconut icing. $3.25 each, $36 for a dozen. EAT Urth Caffé 267 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills, 310/205-9311, store.yahoo.com/urthcaffe Organic coffees and teas are the specialty, but there's also a selection of wholesome salads, soups, sandwiches, and more creative healthy fare, like veggie lasagna and tofu and vegetable nori wraps. Kirsten Dunst and Cameron Diaz are regulars. SPLURGE The Ivy 113 N. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310/274-8303 Enjoy comfort food, such as meatloaf or crab cakes, next to Hollywood's elite. English floral decor and comfy pillows make for a shabby-chic atmosphere, and lunch on the patio, though hectic, is charming and glamorous at the same time. The sweet little garden café has been the scene of many a paparazzi showdown. Signature drinks include the Ivy Gimlet and champagne with raspberries. DRINK Barney's Beanery 8447 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hollywood, 323/654-2287, barneysbeanery.com One of the L.A.'s oldest restaurants, Barney's is beloved for its unpretentious atmosphere. Beers, beans (the chili combos are famous), and ball games are specialties. DRINK Fiesta Cantina 8865 Santa Monica Blvd., W. Hollywood, 310/652-8865 Known for two-for-one margarita happy-hour specials, 4 p.m.--8 p.m. daily. The fish tacos are a WeHo favorite. Entrées range from $4.50 for burritos to $10 for fajitas. The jukebox is always rocking with guilty pleasures--classic Madonna, Elton John, and Bon Jovi--and the friendly bartenders like to sing along, often without their shirts. SHOP Out of the Closet 99 N. La Cienega Blvd., Suite 200, Beverly Hills, 310/657-9353, aidshealth.org Finding a great deal at this treasure-filled thrift store is easy, as secondhand clothes, housewares, and more go for scandal-ously low prices. All proceeds benefit the AIDS Healthcare Foundation. The window displays are dazzling, with decorations rivaling those at famous department stores. SHOP Wasteland 7428 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323/653-3028 Melrose's best supplier of secondhand clothes and accessories for men and women. The shop stocks vintage garb (up to the 1980s), as well as current designers like Seven Jeans and Juicy Couture. SPLURGE Kitson 115 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310/859-2652, shopkitson.com Designer duds for men and women, as well as funky gifts and trinkets for any credit-card limit. Even if you can't afford the rich-kid price tags (the Hilton sisters are regulars), there's fun to be had simply browsing. PLAY The Groundlings Theatre 7307 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, 323/934-4747, groundlings.com Hilarious improv and written sketch shows nightly. There's never a dull moment on this legendary stage, where the biggest funny names in Hollywood made their debuts. Walls are lined with photos of geniuses past, like Will Ferrell. Reservations recommended, especially for weekend shows, which can sell out three weeks in advance. From $10. The Getty Center 1200 Getty Center Dr., 310/440-7300, getty.edu The Getty Center Los Angeles, one of the most impressive private art collections in the world, charges no admission. There are thousands of works in all, including Van Gogh's Irises. The museum is high in the Santa Monica Mountains; visitors park at the base and take the tram up. Closed Mon. Self-guided audio tour $3. $7 parking fee. (Note: Reservations to park are no longer required.) To get there: Take the Getty Center Drive exit from the San Diego freeway (I-405) near the intersection of the Santa Monica freeway (I-10), and follow the signs. A second site, the Getty Villa in Malibu, opened in January 2006 (17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades). Runyon Canyon Enter off N. Fuller Ave., Mulholland Dr., or N. Vista St. from Hollywood Blvd., runyon-canyon.comA 130-acre park where hikers enjoy breathtaking views of the city. The chances of spotting coyotes, snakes, deer, and the odd celebrity walking a dog are high, and there are trails for hikers of all levels.