Los Angeles: Beverly Hills & W. Hollywood

Santa Monica is the city's biggest beach community, known for its pier, beautiful people, and pedestrian-only Third Street Promenade. Eclectic Venice Beach, laced with canals, is home to many artists. SEE Venice Beach Boardwalk From Rose Ave. to Washington Blvd. More of a sidewalk of sights than a traditional boardwalk. The promenade is lined with street performers, psychics, and struggling artists who look like they've been there since the late 1960s. Cheap eats and crazy T-shirt shops, too. EAT Blue Plate 1415 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310/260-8877 Serves omelets, pancakes, and soups to brunching Hollywood starlets and power players. Lunchtime is less hectic, and once you're in, the waitstaff will make sure you're well taken care of. EAT C & O Trattoria 31 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey at Venice Pier, 310/823-9491, cotrattoria.com Singing waiters, heaping portions, and great prices make it a prime spot for family and friends to enjoy a no-frills Italian feast. The table Chianti is self-serve (it's on an honor system), the garlic rolls are free-flowing, and the menu is surprisingly varied. Dishes like fettuccine al limone arrive on plates big enough to share. The lively atmosphere keeps the place packed, so be prepared to wait. Never fear: C & O has been known to serve samples of its killer garlic rolls out on the street. EAT Hal's Bar & Grill 1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310/396-3105, halsbarandgrill.comUnpretentious neighborhood joint that showcases works by local artists and serves wholesome, filling brunches on weekends. Diners are greeted with complimentary warm muffins and biscuits. The mimosas and Manuel's scrambled eggs, a healthy Mexican twist on a breakfast classic, are exceptional; the Dungeness crab sandwich is savory but messy. EAT Mao's Kitchen 1512 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310/581-8305, maoskitchen.com Cheap Chinese food. Almost everything can be made for meat lovers or vegetarians. For example, the dumplings come three ways: chicken, shrimp, or tofu with black mushroom and vegetables. Portraits of Mao Tse-tung hang on the brick walls. Outdoor seating. DRINK Veranda Hotel Casa Del Mar, 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica, 310/581-5533, hotelcasadelmar.com It doesn't get much posher than sipping drinks in this glamorous hotel's oceanside lobby lounge, where there's usually someone tickling the ivories. The 1920s decor is inviting; you'll melt into the large, comfortable couches. Quality people-watching guaranteed. SHOP Firefly 1413 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310/450-6288, shopfirefly.com Quirky collections of cards, books, and artistic creations of all kinds--from pottery to hand-decorated T-shirts--are crammed into every corner. It's hard to leave empty-handed. SHOP Third Street Promenade Third St., Santa Monica, 310/393-8355, thirdstreetpromenade.com Good for the clearance racks at popular clothing stores like Banana Republic and for finding bargains at quirkier stores like Kenzie (contemporary women's fashions from Canada) and Lush (known for its all-natural beauty products). PLAY Nitespa 1301 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Suite 33, Venice, 310/396-5122, nitespa.com After-hours spa-bar with slumber party ambience. Try a massage (from $25) or facial (from $85) with a cocktail. Neapolitan-ice-cream-colored walls make for a cheery backdrop, and a D.J. spins tunes until 2 a.m. PLAY Santa Monica Pier Colorado Ave. and Ocean Front Walk, 310/458-8900, santamonicapier.org A coastal landmark where there's always something going on. For a cheap date, ride the Ferris wheel at Pacific Park, eat hot dogs, and take pictures at a photo booth ($3 for color, $1 for black and white) in the bustling arcade. Ride pass from $20, kids from $10. ESCAPE Santa Barbara Wine Country santabarbara.com/winecountry About 40 miles north of the luxury shopping and high life of Santa Barbara and 120 miles from L.A., day-trippers can visit the beautiful countryside and wineries made famous by the movie Sideways. You can even download a map from the region's official website and take the same route as the characters in the movie. Most wineries are clearly marked. Firestone Vineyard and Winery is large and popular; but you'll have to fight your way past the crowd of ladies in search of Andrew Firestone from The Bachelor, who is one of the owners (5000 Zaca Station Rd., Los Olivos, a few minutes' drive from Hwy. 101, 805/688-3940, firestonewine.com). Koehler is a quieter, more easygoing experience; it's a great spot to uncork a bottle and picnic (5360 Foxen Canyon Rd., Los Olivos, 805/693-8384, koehlerwinery.com). Area oddities include: Ostrich Land (610 East Hwy. 246, between Buellton and Solvang, 805/686-9696, ostrichland.com), where you can feed ostriches and emus in exchange for donations; and the town of Solvang, known for its touristy Danish souvenirs.

Contemporary architecture and large mall multiplexes define Wilshire Boulevard, a stretch of which is called Miracle Mile. The surrounding streets are filled with independent art galleries and retailers. SEE La Brea Tar Pits 5801 Wilshire Blvd., 323/934-7243, tarpits.org Active tar pits are an unexpected reminder of what was here long before tall buildings. The surrounding park is pleasant for strolls or picnics. There's also a small educational museum with fossils and woolly-mastodon skeletons. $7. SEE LACMA, Los Angeles County Museum of Art 5905 Wilshire Blvd. 323/857-6000, lacma.org The must-see of museum row has old masters and new rebels, with a regular slate of exciting installations. The best time to go is Friday evenings for the jazz series. Closed Wed. $9, free for kids under 18, and for all visitors after 5 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. EAT Flora Kitchen at Rita Flora 468 S. La Brea Ave., 323/931-9900, florakitchen.com A hit with the health-conscious and gourmets alike. Fresh food, mainly hearty sandwiches and salads, is the focus of this flower shop turned restaurant. Most dishes are made with organic ingredients. Start with the Flora Italia--mozzarella on a baguette or olive bread slathered with olive tapenade--and finish things off with an amazing traditional chocolate chip cookie. The dining room is full of beautiful blooms. EAT Mäni's Bakery 519 S. Fairfax Ave., 323/938-8800, manisbakery.com Casual café with outdoor seating that's great for pancakes or burgers any time of day. The fresh breads and homemade desserts are all made with organic whole grains. Most meat dishes can be made with tofu instead, and there are even vegan and sugar-free desserts. The multigrain pancakes are superb, and the gazpacho packs zing. SPLURGE Locanda Veneta 8638 W. 3rd St., 310/274-1893, locandaveneta.com Upscale Italian in understated surroundings. The New York-- style close-quartered seating allows for literal elbow-rubbing with the celebrity clientele (including Dustin Hoffman). You can't go wrong with the fresh pastas and rich sauces, but the daily specials are always a good bet too, with surprises such as pastry-wrapped halibut and spinach-and-ricotta gnocchi. Anything the sage butter sauce touches is a must. DRINK Lola's 945 N. Fairfax Ave., 213/736-5652, lolasla.com Classy and sassy martinis rule at this romantic nightspot; some 60 variations are on the menu. The chocolate mint is sweet and refreshing, and the pumpkin tastes like Thanks- giving in a glass. A fashionable yet mellow crowd. SHOP The Grove 189 The Grove Dr., 323/900-8080, thegrovela.com Shops at the grandiose outdoor mall range from the large Nordstrom department store to little carts selling imitation designer bags and jewelry. There's also a movie theater and a handful of restaurants. SHOP Paul Frank 8101 W. 3rd St., 323/653-6471, paulfrank.com Cool graphic-art T-shirts and accessories for men, women, kids, and babies. The artist's lovable cartoon characters--Julius the monkey, Skurvy the dead pirate, and a new line of Warhol-inspired friends--appear on everything from handbags to housewares. SHOP The Way We Wore 334 S. La Brea Ave., 323/937-0878, thewaywewore.com Hipsters and fashion mavens agree that this is the best vintage collection in L.A. The couture shop upstairs is the place to pick up gowns worn by movie stars past. The store also sells shoes, hats, and antique costume jewelry. SPLURGE Room Service 5901 W. 3rd St., 323/692-9221, roomservice-la.com A housewares dreamland that can give even the most decor-challenged a touch of cool. Large silk-screened canvases adorn the walls, chic minimalist couches conjure martinis and jazz, and the groovy cups and plates are perfect for parties. The staff stays out of the way and lets customers test the repro-Eames furniture. PLAY The El Rey Theatre 5515 Wilshire Blvd., 323/936-6400, theelrey.com An art deco performance space that hosts up-and-coming bands, and also provides a venue for big names like Beck to do surprise concerts. Grand winding staircases, chandeliers, and plush velvet decor make for an interesting spot to catch a favorite act or learn about a new one. Purchase tickets online. From $10. TIP Earthquakes If an earthquake hits while you're inside, protect yourself under a heavy table or stand in a door frame, away from windows and anything that can break or topple over. Outdoors, stay away from trees, buildings, and electrical lines. For more info: lafd.org

When calculating the cost of a trip, don't forget to factor in L.A.'s hefty taxes: 14 percent per room per night on all hotel stays and an 8.25 percent sales tax on food, clothing, and other merchandise. BEVERLY HILLS Beverly Terrace 469 N. Doheny Dr., 310/274-8141, hotelbeverlyterrace.com Quaint tropical retreat with an upscale veneer but a laid-back vibe. Not far from Rodeo and Sunset. Rooms are decorated with Asian and retro influences--straw window blinds, palms, and fresh-cut bamboo stems for luck. The casual, compact swimming pool and garden lounge area often erupts into what feels like a backyard party. From $99, includes continental breakfast and parking. BEVERLY HILLS The Crescent 403 N. Crescent Dr., 310/247-0505, crescentbh.com A no-frills boutique hotel that's surprisingly comfortable. The black-and-white rooms are quiet havens. An entertainment center has CDs and DVDs, and there's an indoor/outdoor fireplace in the lobby lounge. From $165. DOWNTOWN Millennium Biltmore Hotel Los Angeles 506 S. Grand Ave., 213/624-1011, millenniumhotels.com Historic and grand, the 1923 monument makes visitors feel like royalty. Once home to a few Academy Awards ceremonies, this Italian-inspired beauty has towering columns, and frescoes on the ceiling. Guest rooms feature gold and ivory tones and classic furniture. Some have marble bathrooms. From $150. HOLLYWOOD The Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel 7000 Hollywood Blvd., 800/950-7667, hollywoodroosevelt.com Said to be haunted by ghosts of Hollywood past. Recent renovations have preserved its Spain-meets--Old Hollywood exterior, and chocolate-brown rooms have been freshened with modern decor. The poolside lounge, Tropicana Bar, is one of the hottest spots in town (see p. 6). From $139. LA BREA / MIRACLE MILE Farmer's Daughter Hotel 115 S. Fairfax Ave., 323/937-3930, farmersdaughterhotel.com The ultranice staff members take pride in their work, and it shows. Country charm fuses with a playful decor that gives a nod to the neighborhood farmer's market. Murals of waving wheat line the walls, and vintage lattice furniture is upholstered in gingham and denim. Formerly a cheap spot for Hollywood hopefuls to get their footing (including Charlize Theron when she first moved to L.A.). From $129. MANHATTAN BEACH Belamar Hotel 3501 N. Sepulveda Blvd., 310/750-0300, thebelamar.com Just a few blocks' walk to downtown Manhattan Beach. Rooms have sumptuous beds with down comforters, as well as flat-screen TVs. Accents include silly portraits of Chihuahuas. The hotel's bar and performance venue, Vibe, features live music most evenings. From $149. WEST HOLLYWOOD The Grafton on Sunset 8462 W. Sunset Blvd., 323/654-4600, graftononsunset.com All of the rooms use feng shui principles and feature ergo-nomic furniture, but the plush, themed suites on the fourth floor are the most fun--options include a cutesy starlet's pad, a Rat Pack hangout, and a graffiti artist's playground. A Medi-terranean courtyard and elegant swimming pool complete the eclectic picture. The hotel provides a free shuttle (a green PT Cruiser) to bars and restaurants within a three-mile radius. From $169. SPLURGE Avalon Hotel 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310/277-5221, avalonbeverlyhills.com The modern, tropically decorated rooms have funky bamboo accents, designer linens and bathrobes, and CD players. In-room spa treatments and 24-hour room service assure guests a true Beverly Hills experience. The balconies and Blue on Blue, the popular poolside restaurant with cabanas, are good for people-watching. From $239. SPLURGE Maison 140 140 Lasky Dr., Beverly Hills, 310/281-4000, maison140beverlyhills.com Looks like a small historic Parisian hotel from the outside. Inside, guests are greeted by chic modern decor, but the ambience isn't cold; it feels like a private Beverly Hills home. Fine Asian reproduction furniture in vibrant colors and abstract art add flair to the 43 rooms. From $189. AREA CODES DECODED In a city infamous for sprawl, it's no surprise that area codes have struggled to keep up. On August 26, 2006, 424 will join L.A.'s three main area codes, and some rules will change. Those in the 310 and 424 regions will need to dial 1, then the area code and the seven-digit phone number, when making all calls. Local and long distance rates will remain the same.   213: Downtown, Financial District, Chinatown, Echo Park, Westlake, Koreatown.   323: Encircles the 213 area, covering most of Hollywood, Huntington Park, and parts of Beverly Hills, Pasadena, and West Hollywood.   310: Coastal areas to the northwest, west, and southwest of the city center, such as Santa Monica, Malibu, and Venice.   424: New phone numbers in the 310 region issued as of August 26, 2006.

TO/ FROM THE AIRPORT Prime Time Shuttle 310/536-7922, primetimeshuttle.com Reliable transportation serving all L.A.-area airports. Sedans, private vans, and luxury cars are all available, but the best choice for the money is a shared van. Prices depend on where you're headed. A shared van that makes drop-offs at any location, provided others are traveling to the same neighborhood, is around $15 per person; a shared sedan for up to three people going to midcity runs around $57. SPLURGE Beverly Hills Rent-A-Car At LAX and all over L.A., 800/479-5996, bhrentacar.com Cruise Rodeo Drive in style or arrive at the hotel like a celebrity in a Lamborghini, Rolls-Royce, or '59 Cadillac convertible. There's even a selection of the latest hybrid models to help save the environment and gas money. From $55/day for a premium model Toyota to $3,995/day for the Rolls. GETTING AROUND Metro Transportation Authority Buses 800/266-6883, mta.net Even though public buses can be crowded and slow, they're a good option if you don't have your own set of wheels, and they run on schedule. Exact change only; tickets also available at Ralphs and Pavilions supermarkets. Purchase day passes from the bus driver. All buses are equipped for bicycles. Check website for routes and schedules. $1.25/ride, $3 for a day pass. City of Los Angeles Taxi Services taxicabsla.org Because L.A. is so spread out, taxis aren't always easy to find, except in prime travel areas like LAX, Downtown, and some of the more popular bar/restaurant neighborhoods, such as the Sunset Strip. Don't get in a cab unless the City of Los Angeles Dept. of Transportation seal is visible on the exterior. These are the only cabs regulated by the city, and anything else is risky. Yellow Cab (310/808-1000) is a safe choice. Major credit cards accepted for rides over $10. Initial fare $2.20, each additional mile $2.20; flat fare for travel between LAX and Downtown $38. ScooterBiz Corner of Venice Blvd. and Ocean Front Walk, 310/450-0669 Rents bikes in Venice Beach for use on, or around, the famed boardwalk. Helmets and locks are not included in the price of rentals, so bring your own. $5/hour, $10 for the day. WHAT'S GOING ON AROUND TOWN LA Weekly (laweekly.com) for arts and entertainment around town, extensive listings. At most newsstands and in some coffee shops, stores, and restaurants. Free Los Angeles Times (latimes.com) for city and national news, 50¢ Mon.--Sat., $1.50 Sun. Los Angeles magazine (lamag.com) for events, local issues, restaurant reviews, $3.95 TOURS Sony Pictures Studios Tour 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 323/520-8687, sonypicturesstudios.com/tourssection/tours.html Two-hour walking tours of classic soundstages, including The Wizard of Oz and Wheel of Fortune. The rich coverage touches on scene production, props, and the studio's golden days. Reservations recommended. Four tours daily, 9:30 a.m.-- 2:30 p.m., Mon.--Fri. No children under 12. $25, includes parking. Beverly Hills Trolley Tours N. Rodeo Dr. at Dayton Way, 310/285-2438, beverlyhills.org A whirlwind fantasy drive that blends art and architecture with celebrity gossip and glimpses of Rodeo's expensive clothiers. The 40-minute tours also pass art galleries, the Museum of Television and Radio, and the William Morris Agency (whose clients include many of Hollywood's A-list actors). Buy tickets from the trolley guide; space is on a first-come, first-served basis. 11 a.m.--4 p.m., Tues.--Sat., early May through late Dec. Tours depart on the hour, weather permitting. $5, kids $1. Red Line Tours 6773 Hollywood Blvd., 323/402-1074, redlinetours.com Huge variety of senior- and family-friendly walking tours of behind-the-scenes Hollywood and Downtown. Also offers bus drive-bys of stars' homes. Each tour has a different running time and schedule. Check the website or call ahead for specifics. Reservations recommended, especially during school vacations. Walking tours: from $20, kids from $15. Bus tours: from $62, kids from $48. Los Angeles Conservancy Tours 523 W. 6th St. Suite 826, 213/623-2489, laconservancy.org Enthusiastic docents share hidden histories and facts about L.A. architecture. Each two-and-a-half-hour walking tour (departing Saturdays at 10 a.m.) is sprinkled with interesting tidbits, such as rumored hauntings, neighborhood gossip, and protests over renovations. Offerings include Downtown's Art Deco tour and a visit to the industrial port of San Pedro. Reservations required. $10. NUMBERS TO KNOW Information 411   Emergency Police, fire, ambulance 911 Metro Transportation 800/266-6883 Consortium of taxi services 310/808-1000 Sports & concert tickets Ticketmaster, 213/480-3232, ticketmaster.com