There's No Need to Fight Over the Car Keys

Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Welcome! Let's get to your questions on travel safety._______________________ Fountain Valley, CA: I have a daughter that I need a passport for. Her father isn't around, nor can be found. I have 100% custody because he never contested, but there is no paperwork stating such, it just is. Therefore, how can I get her a passport if he can't/won't sign and there is no court order? -Trudy Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Dear Trudy, We're quite sure your signature will be enough, but all the rules and regulations are available at most local post offices, just check with your postmaster for the one closest to you. Best, Sheila and Peter. _______________________ Hong Kong, China: Hi, I have a planned trip to Hong Kong for May 18-28, 2006. It will be myself and another girl both 27 years old. We are concerned with safety. We'd like to include a side trip to Malaysia or Philippines. Our interest is getting both beach and city and exploring culture for Hong Kong and Malaysia. Any suggestion would be helpful like cheap airfare, best scuba local, hiking, city life, etc. Thank you! Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Boy, you really are waiting until the last minute to plan this jaunt! Seek bargain airfares via the Internet at sites such as expedia and travelocity, but know that many such tickets mandate NO changes. Guidebooks from Rough Guides and Lonely Planet offer specific destinations suggestions. Use common urban sense in Hong Kong, and you'll be as safe as you can be, in the countryside of Malaysia and the Phillippines you MUST do some homework first and learn aboout those regions where it is possible to encounter potentially dangerous circumstances. Check with the State Department (which you can do on line at State.gov). Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Lewiston, ID: I am going to Venice in October. Is there a safe place to stay that is reasonably priced? I will be in Venice for 4 days. Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Venice is realtively safe, but reasonably priced? Not by Lewiston standards. Best advice for you if money is a key concern: find a package tour before you leave. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Raleigh, NC: My husband and I are in our 30's, and have 2-3 weeks to take a dream trip to India this August or September. We're definitely interested in seeing the Taj Mahal - what are the other "must-sees" you would recommend? We're very interested in natural beauty as well as cultural immersion. Also, we're not sure if independent travel would be either unsafe or too chaotic - what are some good budget-friendly but reliable tour operators? Thanks very much! Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Perhaps divide your trip between an organzied tour group for the must-see destinations followed by a second honeymoon-type period of the two of you meandering around the countryside. By doing the group tour first you'll have a good sense of your safety needs. To choose a good tour operator, pick a few you think are appealing and ask them for references from past customers. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Honolulu, HI: How safe is the water in China and Hong Kong? Many guides indicate not to use hotel water even for brushing teeth. However, during our pre-departure briefing, our tour leader indicated this practice is safe, along with using ice cubes -- this is in 4- and 5-star hotels, if that makes a difference. We are confused by the conflicting guidance. What is safe, and what isn't? Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Hong Kong is First World. Don't worry about their water. But no matter what anyone says, as soon as you cross into what we used to call Red China, it should be bottled water only no matter what, including teeth brushing. Sure, that fancy hotel may have a purifier -- and maybe it's out of order the day you stay. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Mesa, AZ: Going to the Czech Republic July 19th through August 3rd alone. Have never travelled outside the U.S. before but in this case I have a basic Czech vocabulary. What precautions should a women take in this country and what is the best way to bankroll this vacation besides cash? - Holly Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Take the same precautions you'd take in Chicago or New York, and that includes carrying no more cash than you can afford to loose. Your ATM will not only provide you money when you need it, but at a good exchange rate. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Clearwater, FL: I would love to travel to Egypt in Jan. 07 but fear of safety is stopping me and my husband from making our plans. Any information would be appreciated. Thanks, Pat Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Very high profile terrorist attacks have occurred over the last few years in Egypt, but overall the country is remarkably safe and the people warm and inviting. Check with the state Department for their latest warnings, but remember, life is a risk . . . ! Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Cedar Rapids, IA: Is it safe for a woman to travel to Costa Rica alone, or should I go with a tour group? Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Why take off for an unknown location worrying about whether you should be alone? Why not join a group, test the neighborhoods, and then leave the group for your own jaunts knowing its their to rejoin when and if you wish. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Gladwin, MI: In late fall (usually the second week in November) myself and 3 girlfriends like to take a trip to the Carribbean. We want a great beach for relaxation, an all-inclusive hotel and maybe some shopping. We usually go for 4 nights and like to keep it around $1,000 each (The price and # of nights is somewhat flexible). We are from a small town and would love your advice for a safe (and clean) place!! Thank you. -Beth Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: This is really a question for a travel agency or an online travel operator. If you're buying an all-inclusive package at a resort, you're likely in a safe enough neighborhood. Just know that some resorts abut desperate poverty and if you cross into the local town you will considered very rich (and hence perhaps vulnerable). Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Schenectady, NY: I'm planning a trip to Amsterdam. My main interest is visiting museums so I want to stay right in the heart of the city. However, because I am an older woman traveling alone I want to make sure I'm in a safe neighborhood. Is the price of a hotel usually an indication the type of neighborhood? I'm trying not to spend too much money on this trip. My airfare is free (frequent flyer miles)and I don't spend a lot on food when I travel so if I can keep the hotel cost down while still feeling safe it will be a great trip. Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Amsterdam is more expensive than Schenectady, for sure! But there are many modest, safe, and clean hotels in the nighborhood directly adjacent to the State Museum. A good alternative is a pension where the bathroom may be down the hall, but the informal atmosphere may result in you meeting some new friends. Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Greenville, NC:: What are some of the travel clubs or opportunities that focus on singles or unaccompanied women? I will be taking a trip this August without my husband (but with his blessing, smile) and would like to go to Brazil or Italy but am concerned about my safety in traveling alone. Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: Brazil and Italy are great destinations for you. Many books (including ours! -- Safety and Security for Women Who Travel) list such clubs and groups. Bon voyage! Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Mason City, IA: I had never really considered making the trip to Romania until a distant cousin recently called with an invitation in response to a letter in which I had asked him for some help with some family genealogy. As far as I know, he's one of the last of any living relatives on my maternal grandparents' side. Now that he's mildly chastised me for making other travels but not yet coming to Romania, he's got me seriously thinking about it! I would plan to depart from Mason City if possible, as we have a Mesaba Airlink to Northwest Airlines/Minneapolis. I would prefer to utilize NWA due to accumulation miles already achieved. Dates? Most likely early summer of 2007, or perhaps 2008. I would most likely be traveling alone (female, age 52) or perhaps with one additional person. I have previously traveled abroad, to England/Scotland/Ireland with a tour in 1995, and in May of this year I will be traveling with one family member to Sweden via Copenhagen to visit family. The more I think about Romania, and the possibility of seeing my grandparents' homes before they emigrated in 1921, the more excited I am at the prospect! However, I'm unsure of the safety and ease of traveling alone to an Eastern European country. I appreciate all input! Thank you! Kathy Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: It will be a challenge compared with the tourist-experienced England/Scotland/Ireland landscape, but you will have a terrific time. Not only your cousin, but his neighbors will welcome you, feed you, and offer overnight accommodations. The only real caveat: good luck if you're a vegetarian! Best, Sheila and Peter _______________________ Peter Laufer and Sheila Swan: We wish you all a bon voyage (and don't forget to pack a copy of Safety and Security for Women Who Travel!) Best, Sheila and Peter

A temporary theme park dedicated to Pokémon, called PokéPark, takes over Taipei from June 23 through September 24 (pokepark.tw, $26, kids $20). Yotel, a new chain from the company behind the popular Yo! Sushi restaurants, allows travelers to sleep inside terminals at London's Heathrow and Gatwick airports. The 108-square-foot rooms have fold-out beds, flat-screen TVs, and free Wi-Fi. They can be rented by the night, from $70, or in four-hour increments, from $44 (yotel.com). Celebrate the 100th anniversary of Mesa Verde National Park June 29 through July 2 with crafts demos, birthday cake, and music. Rangers will also be leading hikes and horseback rides in September to three former Native-American cliff dwellings--Mug House (left), Spring House, and Oak Tree House--that have been closed to visitors for at least 40 years (mesaverde2006.org, park entrance $10). Musée d'Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean, designed by I.M. Pei, opens July 1 in Luxembourg (mudam.lu, $6). Discovering Chimpanzees: The Remarkable World of Jane Goodall" runs June 4 through September 3 at the Cleveland Museum of Natural History. Interactive exhibits teach about walking, communicating, and climbing like the chimps in Gombe National Park in Tanzania (cmnh.org, $7.50, kids $5.50). Puerto Rico recently passed a law prohibiting smoking in all enclosed public places. It goes into effect in March 2007. Vancouver's public transportation SkyTrain has launched a SkyTour service. Visitors rent headsets that provide commentary during the ride, and also guide them along walking tours of the Gastown and Chinatown districts, and nearby New Westminster (translink.bc.ca). Lufthansa announced a new fare program in which round trips within Europe start at $132. The Southern California CityPass has expanded and now covers admission to Universal Studios, SeaWorld, the San Diego Zoo, and three days in Disney parks ($199, $159 kids 3 to 9). During off-peak hours, up to four kids under age 11 accompanied by an adult can ride the London Underground for free. If a Hyatt guest reserves a non-smoking room and the hotel doesn't deliver, Hyatt compensates with a $100 gift card or 5,000 reward points. Walt Disney World has extended its Magical Express airport shuttle, which allows resort guests to bypass baggage claim in Orlando, through 2011. Avis and Budget rental cars in Houston and the New York City metropolitan area can be equipped with electronic toll-collection systems such as E-ZPass starting at $1.50 per day (plus the tolls). Marriott now factors in taxes and surcharges when a guest books, so no one is surprised at checkout. Bus trips between Midwestern cities cost as little as $1 each way through Megabus.com, which is owned by Coach USA. The Holland America Line is staging regular 5K walks on cruise-ship decks to raise money for breast cancer. On its red-eye flights, JetBlue gives out Bliss spa overnight kits with moisturizer, earplugs, and eye masks, and lets passengers help themselves to a pantry loaded with snacks and hot towels.

It's an unseasonably chilly Friday night in Pittsburgh, but inside the Andy Warhol Museum, a swarm of stylish 20- and 30-somethings aren't letting that stop them from imagining themselves at a Factory party. Wandering around the lobby, wine glasses in hand, they gather around Pop Art prints. The museum's theater has been temporarily turned into a concert space, and indie rockers The Mountain Goats can be heard tuning their guitars. It's part of the museum's weekly Good Fridays event; admission is slashed in half, and young folks gather from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. for drinks and special programs, such as a mixed-tape exchange, in which participants swap cassettes they've made. Among them is Rob Conroy, a 35-year-old lawyer and music writer. "The Warhol is one of my favorite things about Pittsburgh," says Conroy, a native who returned in 1996, after graduating from Widener University in Harrisburg, to practice law (and go to concerts). "I love that it exists here--despite the fact that Warhol is probably turning in his grave. He hated our city so much." The artist fled home when he was 21 and never looked back. But his legacy looms large, and thanks to developments of the last two decades--cheap rents and plenty of grant money--he'd find it far more welcoming than in the old days. "People come to Pittsburgh to visit family or college friends, and they say, 'Wow!' " says Stephanie Giuffre, who moved from San Diego two years ago. Giuffre is a cofounder of Art From Chaos, a collective that puts on avant-garde exhibits and concerts (artfromchaos.org). "Lots of people are working at making Pittsburgh more culturally recognized," Giuffre says. Next month, her nonprofit will be doing its part by staging a fashion and live-music event, called Pendulum, with video art and works by local designer Kairi Kramer that will show how fashion trends evolved between the 1920s and 1970s. One of the best of the museums on the city's North Side is the four-floor Mattress Factory, devoted to contemporary installation art. Among its holdings is James Turrell's fascinating Pleiades, a dark room in which viewers sit and wait for their eyes to adjust, revealing a purplish cube of light. Two doors down, at 408 Sampsonia Way, is House Poem, a living installation by Huang Xiang, a Chinese writer who spent 12 years in prison for defying the Communist government. Huang moved to Pittsburgh in 2004 as part of a program called City of Asylum, in which the city provides housing and funding to exiled writers. Huang has never succeeded in having a poem published in China, but he has found another outlet: his house. Visitors aren't allowed inside, but they can see parts of a dozen poems, in bold calligraphy, on the wooden walls. An inscription on the door translates to NEST OF DREAMS. "People are making the most of what was here before," says Conroy, the lawyer/ music writer. Take the Church Brew Works, a popular spot for pierogies, steaks, and Steelers talk. It's in an abandoned church--brewing tanks full of ales and lagers now stand where the altar once was. The Grand Concourse, a 500-seat restaurant where light pours in through stained-glass windows, is a former train station. It's now a Sunday-brunch mainstay, with a buffet featuring made-to-order omelets and homemade doughnuts. Even some of the best "new" hangouts are throwbacks: Hipster nightspot Kelly's Bar and Lounge was recently refurbished to look like it did during its 1940s art deco heyday. And the Prelude Wine Bar is in a historic-landmark building from 1906 that once housed offices and a nightclub in its lobby. It's since become the Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel. Lodging Renaissance Pittsburgh Hotel 107 6th St., 412/562-1200, marriott.com, from $149 Food Church Brew Works 3525 Liberty Ave., 412/688-8200, pierogies $6.50 Grand Concourse 100 w. Station Square Dr., 412/261-1717, buffet $21 Activities Andy Warhol Museum 117 Sandusky St., 412/237-8300, warhol.org, $10 Mattress Factory 500 Sampsonia Way, 412/231-3169, mattress.org, $8 Nightlife Kelly's Bar 6012 Penn Circle South, 412/363-6012 Prelude Wine Bar 107 6th St., 412/562-1200

Macau, China Tiger Airways from Manila: $78 round trip, 105 minutes (tigerairways.com) A former Portuguese colony that's now part of China, Macau is becoming increasingly famous for its gambling scene. Gambling has been legal there for well over a century, but in recent years, the stakes have risen: The city's casinos raked in about $6 billion in revenue last year, just under the amount earned along the Las Vegas Strip. If you're not into gaming, you're not out of luck. The main square, Largo do Senado, is cobblestoned in a wavy mosaic and reserved for pedestrians. Colonial-era buildings house chain stores and restaurants, but the side streets still have cafés with Portuguese menus. At night, the casinos glow with neon, and the surrounding bars and discos fill up. Accommodations can be a challenge: Decent hotels are pricey, cheap ones sleazy. Taipa and Colôane, laid-back islands to the south (but still part of Macau), offer budget- and family-friendly accommodations. The new Hotel Taipa Square has a small pool and easy access to a bus that goes to the main island; in a taxi, the 15-minute ride costs $6 (Rua de Chaves, Taipa, 011-853/839-933, taipasquare.com.mo, from $65). Alternately, the Westin, on Colôane, is on the beach, with a large swimming pool (1918 Estrada de Hac Sa, Colôane, 011-853/871-111, westin-macau.com, from $160). Also on Colôane is Fernando's, an informal beachside restaurant that's popular with Western expats from Hong Kong, about an hour away via an $18 high-speed ferry (9 Praia de Hac Sa, Colôane, 011-853/882-264, dinner for two $40). Kuching, Malaysia Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur: $54 round trip, 105 minutes (airasia.com) Kuching is the capital of Sarawak, an eastern Malaysian state on the island of Borneo. It feels like Singapore--clean, green, and steamy. The compact city center is on the south bank of the Sarawak River, and a shady walkway runs along the riverfront. The narrow streets are home to 19th-century buildings spared during WWII. When the humidity gets unbearable, find respite in the air-conditioned Sarawak Museum, which has handicrafts from the region's ethnic tribes and, less expectedly, an exhibit on the petroleum industry's local activities (Jalan Tun Haji Openg, 011-60/82-244-232, free). Another way to cool off is with a lime-like kalamansi juice ($1) at the James Brooke Bistro & Café, an open-walled spot with river views (Kuching Waterfront, Main Bazaar St., 011-60/82-412-120). Follow locals into the food courts for the best fare; the third floor of Tun Jugah, a modern shopping mall, has a stand with great laksa (noodles with shredded chicken, bean sprouts, and prawns in a spicy coconut soup, $2). Trendy types in Kuching hang out at Bing!, an espresso bar with free Wi-Fi (84 Jalan Padungan, 011-60/82-421-880, latte $2.30). Stay at the Hilton Kuching, which has an ideal location downtown on the riverside (Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman, 011-60/82-248-200, kuching.hilton.com, from $72). Lampang, Thailand PB Air from Bangkok: $140 round trip, 1 hour (pbair.com) In decidedly mellow Lampang, horse-drawn carriages share the road with regular traffic, and pickup trucks with benches serve as taxis. Most hotels are on the shabby side, but the Wienglakor Hotel has an elegant folk-art theme (138/25 Phaholyothin Rd., 011-66/54-224-4701, wienglakor.com, from $29). Authentic Thai massages can be had at the leafy Lampang Medicinal Plants Conservation Assembly, which also sells locally made soaps and teas (177 Moo 12 Ban Khan Mueang Rd., 011-66/54-313-128, hour-long massage $4). Lampang is home to a dozen or so temples, including the majestic Wat Phra That Lampang Luang--probably the world's best example of Lanna architecture. Another temple, Wat Phra Kaeo Don Tao, displays a mixture of influences throughout its buildings, including Lanna (flaring, layered roofs) and Burmese (filigreed woodwork, steeply tiered roofs). Things pick up at night. Bars and discos are clustered around the corner of Thakhrao Noi and Wiang Lakhon Roads, and the Assawin night market sells northern Thai snacks like moo yor (steamed, minced pork sausage). For a sit-down meal, B.B. Coffee, in front of Huen Sai Kum Village, serves seafood fried rice in a scooped-out pineapple ($2) on a sunny patio (bb-coffee.com). Twenty minutes outside Lampang is the National Elephant Institute, where elephants do entertaining things, such as play music, arrange logs, and create abstract paintings (Kilometer 28-29, Lampang-Chiang Mai Highway, 011-66/54-247-875, thailandelephant.org, $1.85). Solo, Indonesia Air Asia from Kuala Lumpur: $68 round trip, 90 minutes (airasia.com) "Solo" is what everyone calls Surakarta, a city just 40 miles from Yogyakarta, the closest big city on the island of Java. And Solo has all the rich Javanese culture without the corresponding congestion. The broad, leafy sidewalks along Jalan Slamet Riyadi find pedestrians and bicyclists coexisting happily. At Galeri Batik Kuna Danar Hadi, an outlet, museum, and factory dedicated to the art of batik, Indonesia's history can be seen through the designs (261--263 Jalan Slamet Riyadi, danarhadibatik.com, $2). Just off Jalan Slamet Riyadi is the Kasunanan Palace, a crumbling compound with architectural influences from China, the Middle East, India, and Europe. A museum in the palace has ornate, centuries-old carriages that are rare reminders of the days of Dutch colonial rule (011-62/271-641-243, 85¢). The restaurant Adem Ayem is a good place to try the Solo specialty nasi liwet, an addictive dish of rice cooked with coconut milk and served with chicken and egg (342 Jalan Slamet Riyadi, 011-62/271-716-992, dinner for two $4). The Lor In Business Resort & Spa is only a 15-minute taxi ride from the city center, but since it's surrounded by lagoons and coconut trees, it feels worlds away (47 Jalan Adi Sucipto, 011-62/271-724-500, lor-in.com, from $56). The low-fare fine print Searching: Don't bother trying to locate Asian low-fare carriers by using aggregators; they like to pretend these airlines don't exist. Online travel guide Attitude Travel maintains a useful list at attitudetravel.com/lowcostairlines/asia. Buying: The easiest way to book in advance is by purchasing tickets with a credit card directly from the airlines' websites. You'll be e-mailed an itinerary with a confirmation number. Print this out both for checking in and for getting through security. Purchases are usually nonrefundable, and making route changes, when permitted, carries a relatively hefty fine--$22 each way on Tiger Airways, for example. Flying: Flight delays and check-in hassles are par for the course. Even finding the check-in counter can be a challenge--in Bangkok, the PB Air counter is in a nearly deserted wing of the departures hall. Leave some wiggle room in your itinerary.