Musicians Without Borders

Dear First-Time Vietnam Visitor     The first thing you have to realize is that nothing is what it seems. No one has sex outside of marriage here apparently. Yet the teenage abortion rate is horrifically high. Everyone seemingly has a mobile phone and a motorbike but the average wage is a dollar a day. Befriend a local and they will spend their last few cents on a meal for you. They will refuse to take anything towards the cost (and you probably shouldn't offer) and they will be genuinely honored to eat with you. You can make a friend for life in seconds. At the same time, if someone collapses in the street, people will walk by. Or worse, stop to stare but do nothing. As a foreigner the police will leave you alone. They know you bring money into this country. But that works both ways too. They may not help you when you need them either. Everywhere is manic with activity yet strangely serene. Eventually your ears will filter out the noise and you'll fall in step with the traffic. You'll wonder why it seemed so scary when you first arrived. I understand that when you think of Vietnam the chances are your first thought is of the American War (that's what it's called in these parts -- and what else would they call it, if you think about it for a second). By all means go to the museums, the tunnels and the rest if that is your thing. But Vietnam is much much more than that. Seventy percent of the population were born after the war. And the American war was a blip in amongst centuries of other wars. In my experience Vietnamese tend to look forward rather than back: understand the horrors of that war. Put it in context and move on. Vietnam has. Don't get too tied down with that communism thing. Vietnam is communist in name only. In terms of the likes of education and health care the capitalist country you left is likely to provide more for its people. As for freedom, well don't expect criticism of the government in the newspapers, but you don't suffer a nanny state here either. And yes.. the opening up to commerce has helped Vietnam prosper. But don't forget this is on the back of a rare 30 years of peace. I would guess that this is the most significant factor in the upswing. Don't worry about your personal safety. Or at least don't panic about it. Vietnam is probably the safest place you will visit. But don't be stupid. Hanoi isn't too bad but by all account bag snatching is on the rise in Saigon. Just keep things close to you. Honestly money belts are not needed. Stick you wallet in your pocket, like you do at home. People will rip you off sometimes. They need the money. But that doesn't mean that people will ALWAYS rip you off. Sometimes the price they say is THE price. There is no need for haggling. Other times you can haggle and haggle to get a couple of cents knocked off. Why bother? Find out what things cost. Don't accept the rip off price but accept the reasonable price. And while we're at it, westerners don't always pay more than locals (transport aside). That's a myth. And yes people are poor here. Ignore the TV shops, the motorbikes, the cars etc. It's for a (growing) select few. Most people still live in a one room home and sleep on the floor. Remember that. Learn a couple of words of Vietnamese. Hello and thank-you will do it. It'll make people smile at the very least. Smiling is important here. Smile when you're haggling, smile when you're arguing, smile when you're asking for your money back. People will appreciate it and actually it's a nicer way to live. If you're being over charged make an "oh my god" face, but do it half smiling. They'll realize they've been sussed but they'll smile back in an "I've been caught?" way and most likely offer you the real price. Relax...they can smell nervous tourists and it's like a red rag to a bull. At least pretend you know what you're doing without being arrogant. Learn to enjoy it even when things go wrong. They will go wrong. Vietnam is slapstick and bizarre and that is why so many of us love it. Vietnamese people know their country is bizarre. Get stuck in a traffic jam in a taxi and the driver will turn to you laughing, shrug and say: "Vietnam." As if that is the reason for the madness. Remember, each cock-up is another experience and another good traveler's tale. Learn to laugh at the problems and live with it. Oh and they will call you fat. They will ask how much you weigh, how old you are, how much you earn, how much your camera cost. Compared to them you probably are fat -- and answer the questions truthfully -- who cares? As Michael Caine says in The Quiet American: "They say, whatever you are looking for, you can find here." It's true. On every level from beautiful beaches to amazing cities. From boiled dog to bangers and mash. From street food to the Sheraton. How much you submerge yourself in Vietnam is up to you. Eat at street stalls if you enjoy the experience but you don't have to. Don't feel guilty if you only eat in top restaurants. Your dollars will still pay for a wage here. Likewise don't think you understand Vietnam and its people just because you've sat on plastic stools and eaten noodle soup. And there is a seedy underside, and there are drugs, and there is corruption and prostitution. But where doesn't have these? There is no where else like Vietnam. People who have been here longer than me, have told me that only five years ago it was all bicycles on the road. Now it's mostly motorbikes but more and more cars are starting to appear. Vietnam is changing. And although I wish I had seen it then, now is also fascinating. The change is here but McDonalds and Starbucks haven't arrived yet. Nothing is ruined. Not yet. You should realize that people either love or hate Vietnam. It is that type of place. But if you at least try to love it then it is more likely to work for you. Come here already smiling and with an open mind and it will be ok. Start to lose your temper over the traffic, the service, the roads or the food and it will only get worse. Nothing works here if you stop smiling. My final piece of advice is: play the idiot. Play the big western lump. Catch their eye when they're laughing at you (you are funny) and laugh with them. Pull a face at the kids. Leave your ego and impatience behind and it'll work out just fine. Author Steve Jackson, who ran the blog Our Man in Hanoi, now lives in Granada, Nicaragua, where he blogs at Our Man in Granada.

Sculpture Projects Münster is one of Europe's largest outdoor art exhibits, but it's only held once a decade (skulptur-projekte.de). This year, 37 artists will explore how art can transform public space. Don't worry if you can't make it to Germany between June 17 and September 30: Thirty-four works from the previous exhibitions are still on display in the city. Launch the slide show to see three past favorites and to preview one of this year's installations. 1977 Giant Pool Balls Swedish-born Claes Oldenburg--famous for oversized versions of everyday objects--planned to transform Münster into a colossal billiards table. Limited funds, however, yielded just three concrete balls, each nearly 12 feet in diameter, installed next to man-made Aa Lake. Locals were slow to embrace Oldenburg's work--in fact, at installation it was ridiculed as an eyesore--but now it's a beloved symbol of the city. 1987 Cherry Pillar Inspired by a dead cherry tree that stood in a drab downtown parking lot, German artist Thomas Schütte said he'd like to "garnish" the site with cherries. The popular sculpture eventually prompted the conversion of the lot into a pedestrian plaza with a café and a fountain. For this year's Sculpture Projects, Schütte will construct a miniature high-rise building atop the plaza's fountain. 1997 The Sanctuary Herman de Vries built a circular brick wall 10 feet high and 46 feet in diameter on Münster Castle's grounds. Inside is an untouched patch of land that viewers can spy through four portholes. "Within this space, nature is free from human intervention," the Dutch artist said at the time. "What will nature do here? It will do something." What it did was turn into a riot of weeds and brambles, contrasting with the castle's manicured gardens. 2007 Sorry-Installation (Archaeological Site) Atop a small mound in the city center, Belgian artist Guillaume Bijl dug a deep hole and then placed a 14-foot-tall shingled church spire inside. (It's a play on the city's name: Münster means "cathedral" in German.) To make it look like a true archaeological dig, Bijl sprayed concrete to mimic layers of soil. A surrounding balustrade allows people to peer into the pit--and into a past that never was.

Let other magazines have their so-called Hot Lists—our Not List is a lot more fun. It's all the trips we don't want to take, like an hour-long "mile high club" flight or a simulation of an illegal border crossing in Mexico. And who better to walk you through the 2007 Not List than our own dapper mascot, the one and only Bud Travel? See him in action in the Not List slide show!

New Prize: CasaMagna Marriott Cancún Resort The best response we receive between June 1, 2007, and June 30, 2007, wins a four-night stay for two at CasaMagna Marriott Cancún Resort. The prize includes four nights in a suite, one dinner at La Capilla Argentina, one spa treatment for the winner and a guest at CasaMagna's spa, tickets and transportation to the eco-archaeological park Xcaret, and breakfast daily. For more information on CasaMagna Marriott Cancún Resort: 888/727-2347, casamagnacancun.com. How to enter TrueStories@BudgetTravelOnline.com or True Stories, Budget Travel, 530 Seventh Ave., 2nd Fl., New York, NY 10018. For full contest guidelines, visit BudgetTravelOnline.com/truestories. The prize has an estimated retail value of approximately $3,000 and is valid from Sept. 1, 2007, to Aug. 31, 2008. Taxes are the sole responsibility of the winner. Blackout dates apply. Prize is subject to availability, nontransferable, and nonnegotiable. No purchase necessary. Void where prohibited. Only one prize will be awarded, and your chances of winning depend on how many entries we receive and whether yours is the best. Open to residents of the 50 United States and its territories, except Arizona. WINNER! This month's winner is Suzanne Fox Sevel of West Melbourne, Fla. Her prize: A six-night vacation rental, courtesy of HomeAway.com. My husband and I took our 17-month-old son, Zachary, to Las Vegas for New Year's Eve, and we were joined by several members of my family. Since Zachary had recently dressed up as Elvis Presley for Halloween, my brothers and nephews decided to bring along Elvis jumpsuits--after all, what's a trip to Las Vegas without Elvis impersonators? As bad as their outfits were, the Elvises received many high fives and photo requests. One woman even asked if they'd pick her up and hold her sideways for a photo. As the picture was being snapped, she realized that my 11-year-old nephew, David, had a clear view right up her miniskirt. Alarmed, she demanded, "What are you lookin' at, li'l Elvis?" You Have a Sikh Sense of Humor Traveling through India, my wife and I took a bus tour to tea plantations in the south. Behind us was a newlywed couple from Mumbai. The bride was sniffling and sneezing, so my wife asked if she was sick. "Oh, no," replied the bride. "We are Hindu." Jim Dunn, Haslett, Mich. Now the Wheelbarrow Feels Even Worse About Itself While hiking on a rain-forest trail near Cairns, Australia, I spotted a six-foot-tall cassowary. The bird stood motionless, 60 feet off in the bush, and I was lucky enough to get a picture. But as soon as my camera clicked, the cassowary stood erect and began to advance menacingly. At three feet away, it raised its dagger toes and threw out its chest. I slowly backed away, and it turned and thundered back into the bush. Later that day, I told the tale to a local naturalist, who explained that because I was wearing a yellow baseball cap and a black jacket, the cassowary likely thought I was an appropriate suitor. It seemed probable, as I've often thought of myself as a bit of a ladies' man. "Don't get too big on yourself, mate," he said. "I've seen 'em have a go at an overturned wheelbarrow." Mike Levitt, Williams Lake, B.C. That's What We'd Call a Crack Response Team A friend of mine in Dundee, Scotland, was kind enough to invite my husband and me to spend the night while we were traveling through the British Isles. She lived in housing for folks of retirement age, and each apartment was equipped with a simple alarm system in case of emergency: a cord near the front door and another next to the bathtub. After a long day of sightseeing, my husband hopped in the shower. When he finished, he bent over to dry his feet, and the cord, unbeknownst to him, became caught in his derriere. As he straightened up, the cord got pulled down and set off the alarm--a story that we found difficult to relay to the security guards who soon appeared. Marilyn Brenner, Licking, Mo. Go Soak in Your Own Toilet While at the lovely Aruba Marriott Resort & Stellaris Casino, my family enjoyed sitting in the hot tub while watching lizards, geckos, and iguanas roam the grounds. One day, an iguana made its way toward us. It slowly crept to the edge of the hot tub--at which point it turned its head, looked directly at us, and peed into the water. We exited immediately! Sharie Phelan, Mokena, Ill. How Was Your Trip? In July 2006, Carol Banning won a South African safari, courtesy of Karell Holidays (formerly South African Airways Holidays), for her story about a hotel in the Czech Republic that changed names during her stay. Banning and her husband, Terry, recently returned from South Africa. "We had a very knowledgeable guide who drove us around while sharing many tidbits about African animals," she says. "And to our delight, our room at the lodge was a freestanding chalet with its own viewing deck. Thank you, South African Airways, for a dream trip come true!"