Pandas: How to Get There

It began by accident. My girlfriend, Ronni, and her twin sister, Marina, rented a documentary on panda bears. We all melted. Then we went online and found videos of tourists, somewhere in China, embracing pandas. One showed a gaggle of cubs eagerly descending a slide in what looked like panda day care. "We have to find this place," Ronni said, eyes lighting up. A friend of a friend had recently gone to China on a botanical excursion, and I could see the wheels turning in Ronni's and Marina's heads. Soon enough, we had tickets and immunization appointments. Much in the same way you might say, "Hey, let's go to a movie," we made plans to cross the Pacific. We had no basis to believe that meeting pandas was possible for ordinary people. We consulted guidebooks and online travel forums, and our best bet appeared to be a facility for research and visitors at the Wolong Nature Reserve, about five hours away from Chengdu in Sichuan province. Because it was difficult to reach, we figured it must be more rewarding. Once in Hong Kong, I contracted a fixer on the mainland to help sort everything out. His name was Huang, and he'd been to Wolong earlier that year with National Geographic. Ever since Empress Wu Zetian sent a pair of panda bears to the Japanese emperor around A.D. 700, China's public face has been represented by the furry goodwill ambassadors, who even forced a smile from Richard Nixon. Today, we noticed upon arrival in Shanghai, you don't see dour Mao nearly as much as Jingjing, the flower-crowned cartoon panda that's one of the Beijing 2008 Olympic mascots, and just the first in the parade of pandas that adorn China's storefronts, advertising, clothing, and vibrant cell-phone-charm industry. In Chengdu, we were greeted at the airport by a 40-foot column topped with a giant bronze panda. On our way into the city, we also couldn't help but notice that the lampposts, rickshaws, and even highway overpasses were festooned or stenciled or otherwise decorated with pandas. But Chengdu was just a transit point for our trek along the Min and Pitiao Rivers to the Wolong Nature Reserve. We hired a driver, part of a fairly dodgy tour we'd found last-minute on the Internet. All road travel in China happens frenetically--the constant, aggressive brinksmanship of millions of shoddy minivans with toy-like wheels. We left for Wolong at dusk, ascending steep gorges that sometimes disappeared into the mist, on roads that sometimes disappeared altogether. There's no real town, and not many restaurants, other than the shabby ones at the Wolong Hotel and the Panda Inn. The following day, we awoke to a crisp and cool autumn day, with the sound of the river filling the narrow valley. This is the panda's native habitat, a subalpine arboreal wonderland that makes you understand Chinese fairy tales. The China Conservation and Research Center for the Giant Panda has marked off large enclosures for its several dozen pandas. Last summer, the notoriously fickle pandas produced 18 cubs. We could see some of them through the glass of the nursery. The newest born were tiny pink nubs. Those slightly older were fed with bottles. The cubs we had seen online were from the previous summer. A little over a year old, all 16 played together in a single enclosure next to the nursery. Three Japanese girls entered the day-care center and frolicked among the cubs. "How can we do that?" I asked Tang, one of the keepers. He took us to an office, where we discovered advance work to arrange a special panda visit is unnecessary. To hug baby pandas, all you have to do is show up and pay the Wolong Panda Club $130 per person. That's nothing for five minutes of nirvana. In the flesh, the cubs were so unbelievably cute that they seemed artificial. With their round heads, big eyes, and rolling gait, they looked and acted like Jim Henson creations. Touching one felt like meeting a unicorn. The cubs moved like puppies in a curious, playful swarm. They didn't lick so much as nuzzle. And grab: To our delight, the desire for hugging was mutual, and what began as a careful encounter quickly devolved into fuzzy mayhem as the cubs attached themselves to our arms and legs. At one point, Ronni was dragged to the ground by a clutch of cubs, and she beamed beatifically. "I can't believe this is happening," she said as she freed herself, only to be taken down again. After the staff pulled the cubs off us, we stood around in a daze. Stepping back outside of the panda pen, Ronni stopped grinning long enough to say, "I want to do that again." Round-trip airfare between Chengdu and Beijing, Hong Kong, or Shanghai runs $400 to $680 on Dragonair or Air China. How to Get There The Wolong Nature Reserve is five hours from Chengdu; for under $100 a day, you can hire a driver at Chengdu's Dragon Town youth hostel (011-86/28-8664-8408, dragontown.com.cn). The hotels in Wolong are the Wolong Hotel (011-86/837-624-6888) and the Panda Inn (011-86/837-624-3028). The Wolong Panda Club charges $33 per day to volunteer with the pandas; playing with cubs costs $130 (011-86/837-624-3058, pandaclub.net).

Reader Tips Every summer, we drive out West from Pennsylvania with our two kids. To avoid that infamous road trip question ("Are we there yet?"), I give each child a map with our route highlighted on it. Along the way, they can match up the town names with road signs we pass, and that way, they always know exactly where we are and how much farther we have to go until we'll get there. --Machell McCoy, Carlisle, Pa. Give each child his or her own small carry-on bag. Fill it with new, surprise treats to occupy the downtime--layovers, long flights, time in hotels--as well as a few familiar items from home. Include a notebook and encourage your child to keep a travel diary. --Joan White, Dallas, Tex. If you're on a road trip with young children and you're looking for a place to let them blow off some steam, check out the playgrounds at local elementary schools. They almost always have equipment that your children will love to explore. It will also give everyone in the family a welcome chance to stretch their legs. --Heather Fitzgerald, Little Compton, R.I. Put toys within kids' reach on road trips. Hang a shoe organizer on the back of the passenger seat so children can keep stuffed animals, books, and games organized in the pockets. Having everything close at hand may help prevent meltdowns along the way. --Jennifer Casasanto, Newton, Mass. When my husband and I would stay in a hotel with our two-year-old, a full night's sleep was out of the question. The minute our son opened his eyes (at 2, 3, or 4 a.m.), he woke us, thinking it was time to play. We now pack a pop-up tent and set it up in a corner of the hotel room with books, a blanket, and a few small stuffed animals. The tent folds down to a 14-inch circle and weighs about a pound. It works great! My son has his own "room" to sleep in when we vacation, and we all get to sleep through the night! --Geri Kronyak, Boonton, N.J. It can be difficult for parents to find a place to bathe their infant while on vacation. Showers obviously won't work, and the miniscule sinks generally found in hotel bathrooms aren't appropriate either. On our last cruise, we eliminated the whole problem by packing a small, inexpensive inflatable bathtub. (Ours cost only $7.99.) When we arrived, we blew it up and placed it in the bottom of the shower for an instant, safe baby bath. --Maria Diekema-Zuidema, Lewisville, N.C. At a theme park, tie a brightly colored scarf to the handle of your stroller before you enter a ride. When you return, you'll be able to quickly pick out your stroller from a sea of look-alikes. --Katrina Shelton, Beaumont, Tex. Before we went to London, I created a personalized booklet on our computer with fill-in pages like "the new foods I tried were," "best candy," "words I learned," and "most fun/boring museums." My daughter, who might have been daunted by lots of blank journal pages, had a blast answering the questions and filling in all the details. --Mary Cronin, Harwich, Mass. Give your children a coach's whistle in case they get lost; put it on a ribbon so they can wear it around their neck. The piercing sound may be annoying, but you'll definitely find them quicker! --Chandra Huang, Honolulu, Hawaii When my husband and I travel with our children, our luggage is weighed down by diapers, formula, and other necessities. To save space and hassle, we now ship ahead most of those items to our hotel. We also came across a Web site called babiestravellite.com, where we can order supplies and have them shipped anywhere in the world. --Mina Camera, San Gabriel, Calif. Check out The Smart Traveler's Passport for more great reader tips. You can buy it at bookstores everywhere and at barnesandnoble.com. And if you have a good tip of your own, please send it to us at Tips@BudgetTravelOnline.com.

Clotilde Dusoulier: Welcome everyone! Thanks for joining me in this discussion about food and Paris, and thank you for all your questions -- I'll try to get to as many as I can. _______________________ Portland, OR: My husband and I are going to Paris for 6 days on our first trip to Europe in August. We would love to experience as much of the Paris food and wine world as possible, but also need to save money where we can. Can you please recommend some good "cheap" places to dine as well as a few places that we should splurge on? We will be staying in the New Orient Hotel located on rue Constantinople near the Arc de Triomphe, so restaurants that are closer by would be even better. Thanks! Clotilde Dusoulier: One of the best budget tips when eating out in Paris is to make lunch your main meal of the day, because most restaurants offer lunch formulas that are great bargains: a restaurant like Le Bélisaire (2 rue Marmontel in the 15th; +33 1 48 28 62 24) has an outstanding 3-course lunch menu that only costs 20 euros. And in the evening, you can opt for a more simple meal at a wine bar, where you'll have drinks and a few nibbles of cured meat and cheese--try Le garde-Robe, for instance (41 rue de l'Arbre Sec in the 1st; +33 1 49 26 90 60). _______________________ Milwaukee, WI: Clotilde We have been to Paris several times enjoy trying all of the food there, but where can we find the best and cheapest steak and frites? Thanks! Mary Clotilde Dusoulier: Hello Mary! First of all, keep in mind that the best of anything is rarely the cheapest, especially when it comes to meat: high-quality meat and fresh, made-to-order fries have a price. That said, I really like the steak-frites that's served at Le Sévéro (8 rue des Plantes in the 14th; +33 1 45 40 40 91) or its sister restaurant, Le Bis du Sévéro (16 rue des Plantes in the 14th; +33 1 40 44 73 09), where the owner ages his own meat. And although it comes with garlic potatoes rather than fries, I highly recommend the entrecôte (rib steak) at Corneil (18 rue Condorcet in the 9th; +33 1 49 95 92 25). _______________________ Los Angeles, CA: Hello, Since we generally know that those restaurants that have menus printed in eight different languages probably aren't our best bet for a night of fine dining, what is the best way to approach a restaurant if you don't speak French? Do you politely ask the host/hostess if they speak English, etc.? Thank you! Clotilde Dusoulier: That's a great question, as the language barrier can sometimes get the relationship off to a faulty start. Try to find a bit of time before you leave to learn a few words and phrases; it's the best investment you can make to prepare for your trip. Of course, no one is saying that all visitors should speak French fluently; the idea is simply to show that you're making an effort. And regardless of your language skills, you should always address a French person in French first, and never assume that they speak or even understand English. There is no magic trick, really: say "Bonjour" ("Bonsoir" in the evening), smile, and politely ask, "Parlez-vous anglais?" If they do switch to English, thank them, show that you're grateful for their efforts, and speak slowly (but not louder) to make yourself understood. And if they don't speak English, well, keep smiling, and try to communicate with gestures and what little each of you knows of the other's language. Also, there are several food-oriented dictionaries out there that will help you decipher menu offerings. _______________________ Greensboro NC: Sugguestions for a good Thai and or Vietnamese restaurants in Paris Clotilde Dusoulier: For Thai cuisine, I like to go to Krung Thep (93 rue Julien Lacroix in the 20th; +33 1 43 66 83 74) and for Vietnamese cuisine to Dan Bau (18 rue des Trois Frères in the 18th; +33 1 42 62 45 59). _______________________ Studio City, CA: What's the best area to stay in for a month if you want to live like a local? Like you, I just want to meander, shop, eat, people watch, write and maybe visit a few museums. I plan on attending the French Open and travel to Cannes next year. Thanks. Clotilde Dusoulier: I suggest you pick a place that's close to a good food shopping street, such as rue Montorgueil in the 1st, rue Cler in the 7th, rue des Martyrs in the 9th, rue de Levis or rue Poncelet in the 17th, or rue des Abbesses in the 18th. _______________________ Andover, NH: I will be traveling as a single woman to Paris in October/November for several days. I will be staying in the Rue Cler area and know that there's a great french market nearby. Can you recommend some dinner options that won't break the bank, will give me the feel for being in Paris and not with 100 other Americans and is a train ride or walk away? Thank you. Clotilde Dusoulier: First, I might note that it is fine for a woman to eat on her own in Paris: no one will raise an eyebrow or get the wrong idea. That said, it is a lot more frequent to see people eating solo at lunchtime than at dinnertime, when eating out is seen more as a social occasion, but that doesn't mean you can't do it. The area where you will be staying has plenty of good restaurant options if you just want to walk home afterwards, and I recommend in particular l'Ami Jean (27 rue Malar in the 7th; +33 1 47 05 86 89), la Fontaine de Mars (129 r St Dominique in the 7th; +33 1 47 05 46 44), Caf? Constant (39 r St Dominique in the 7th;+33 1 47 53 73 34) and, slightly more upscale but excellent value, Le Clos des Gourmets (16 av Rapp in the 7th, +33 1 45 51 75 61). _______________________ Westport, CT: We will be in Paris in October, and are "foodies." This is a two parter. Do you have a few favorite small bistros not known to every tour book? We will be in the 7th arrondisement. Also, I'm interested in a half day cooking class. Do you recommend one? Thanks. Clotilde Dusoulier: For restaurants in the 7th, you can refer to the recommendations I made above to the reader from Andover, NH, but here are two other favorites on the road less traveled: Le Réveil du Xè (33 rue du Château d'Eau in the 10th; +33 1 42 41 77 59) and Le Mesturet (77 rue de Richelieu in the 2nd; +33 1 42 97 40 68). As for cooking classes, you can look into L'Atelier des Chefs (atelierdeschefs.com), L'Ecole de Cuisine d'Alain Ducasse (atelier-gastronomique.com), or Le Pavillon Lenôtre (lenotre.fr/fr/cours_de_cuisine.php). _______________________ San Juan, Puerto Rico: I'm currently planning my fourth trip to Paris. During my second trip I ran into a very good sushi rest. on 8th arrondisement. It was a small establishment (about 5 tables) but the service and quality was excellent. For this trip I would like to explore new sushi venues in the city. Any suggestions? Clotilde Dusoulier: A good place to start is the Parisian Japantown, located on and around rue Saint-Anne in the 2nd arrondissement, where you'll find many authentic and reasonably priced Japanese restaurants. My favorite sushi bar there is Korin, 58bis rue Sainte-Anne in the 2nd (+33 1 40 20 49 93). A bit more upscale is Isami, 4 Quai d'Orléans in the 4th (+33 1 40 46 06 97). _______________________ Kansas City, Missouri: My friends and I will be in Paris 9/9/07 for 6 days. We are staying in the Latin Quarter. Any favorite restaurants in that area that locals favor? We don't need fancy, just good. Thanks, Kathi Clotilde Dusoulier: In that area, I recommend Les Papilles (30 rue Gay-Lussac in the 5th; 01 43 25 20 79), Le Pré Verre (8 rue Thénard in the 5th; +33 1 43 54 59 47), and Ribouldingue (10 rue Saint-Julien-le-Pauvre in the 5th; +33 1 46 33 98 80)--the latter serves great offal dishes, if you're into that sort of thing. _______________________ Niceville, Florida: Is there a good way to handle a flight layover in Paris? My husband will be on a business trip and will need to spend a night's layover in Paris. He's the type to just spend the time in an airport hotel, but I would like him to see at least a little of Paris. Help.... Clotilde Dusoulier: It depends what airport he's flying into, and how late in the day he arrives, but both Paris airports are a 45-minute taxi ride from the city (if the traffic is good) so if he's up for it, he could decide to have dinner in Paris and see a bit of the city from the cab... _______________________ San Diego, CA: What kind of activity can one entertain with 5-6 y.o. English-speaking kids in Paris this June and July to give them long lasting memories? Thank you. Clotilde Dusoulier: I would suggest you take them to visit the Potager du Roi in Versailles (potager-du-roi.fr), where gardeners used to grow fruits and vegetables for the King of France. It's a beautiful place where they can run around freely, and if they're city kids, it will show them where their food comes from! _______________________ Gainesville, FL: Bon jour Clotilde, First I want to congratulate you on your, albeit brief, TV appearance and the release of your English cookbook which I was able to acquire one of your last signed copies. My reason for writing is to ask you for a recommendation for dinner. My wife and I spent seven wonderful days in Paris a few years ago and we will be celebrating our 10th anniversary in Provence in early September before returning to Paris to catch our flight back the Florida. On our previous visit we splurged for lunch at the Jules Verne restaurant (I understand that as 1 January 2007 chef Alain Ducasse is now responsible for the kitchen) and I had thought of returning there for lunch. Since visiting your web site and reading your blog over the past few months I realized there just might be an exceptional little place that would be as wonderful even if it does not have an aerial view of Paris. If you were planning to go out for dinner with the one special person in your life where would you go? In advance, thank you. George Clotilde Dusoulier: Hello George, and thanks for the kind words. For that sort of special meal, I highly recommend L'Astrance (4 rue Beethoven in the 16th; +33 1 40 50 84 40) and Les Ambassadeurs (10 place de la Concorde in the 8th; +33 1 44 71 16 16), the restaurant inside the Crillon hotel. (In both cases, there are weekday lunch menus available to make the celebration more affordable.) Happy anniversary! _______________________ Clotilde Dusoulier: And thus ends our chat session! Thank you for your interest, and I hope you have a delicious stay in Paris. For more tips and recommendations, you can follow my eating adventures on my blog (chocolateandzucchini.com) and my moblog (chocolateandzucchini.com/moblog/), and stay tuned for my book about Paris restaurants and food shops, which will come out in the spring of 2008.

Say "RV" and images pop up of white-haired retirees tooling along in the slow lane. Say good-bye to those preconceived notions before setting foot in New Zealand. Camping and RVing are hugely popular with tourists and locals, young and old alike, in this awe-inspiring country, which by now everyone knows served as the beautiful backdrop for the Lord of the Rings film trilogy. RVing is simply the easiest, most affordable and free-flowing way to experience New Zealand. Airfare costs and figuring out a new vehicle's gadgets can scare off some people, but neither is as bad as you think. Best of all, there's no need for hotel reservations! Where's the Steering Wheel? For most of us who didn't learn to drive Brit style, getting used to cars on the left and steering wheels on the right is the biggest challenge. A decent driver will get the hang of it after a few nervous hours. One tip is to look where you want to go, not at where you don't, and let your hands and feet take care of the rest. The task is made easier because RVs in this part of the world are not the behemoths you've seen clogging up campgrounds at Yellowstone. RVs are called campervans here-fitting, because most are about the size of American minivans. Add in easy-to-follow road signs and byways that are rarely crowded, and the learning curve is a quick one. Don't be surprised if locals blow by you in a blur, though. Kiwis are among the nicest people in the world, but they can seem rude and reckless on the road. Support systems You seldom drive an hour in New Zealand without spotting an RV park (known locally as campervan, caravan, or holiday parks). Nearly all have bathrooms and hot showers, and many have pools, hot tubs, and private cabins. Scout out campervan sites with sources such as Top 10 Holiday Parks (www.topparks.co.nz) and Holiday Accommodation Parks of New Zealand (www.holidayparks.co.nz). A two-person site with electric hookup-so you can cook and stay warm on chilly nights-should cost about $16. RV manuals cover the basics like how to use the kitchen and hook up your vehicle at a camper site. Neighbors or managers at RV parks are usually more than happy to help out novices, too. Reservations are rarely necessary, but it can't hurt to call or e-mail ahead, especially during certain peak vacation periods (from Christmas to February, in particular). No matter when you go, don't get stressed. New Zealand is safe and super laid-back. Chances are nobody will hassle you for pulling over and spending the night in a parking lot or on the side of the road. Go your own way Without the worries or costs of putting a roof over your head each night, you can go wherever the road takes you, at whatever pace you please. So what'll it be? The South Island, with glaciers, fjords, and scenery so pumped up it seems to be on steroids? Beaches and plush rolling hills on the North Island? Fun cities like Wellington or Queenstown? You're only limited by how much time you have and how much you're willing to spend on gas (it's over $2 a gallon there). Too Much of a Good Thing Several days and nights in a row inside the same vehicle makes for one cramped camper-the darn walls seem to close inward by the hour. And after a few days without your own shower, your crew may be ripe for a comfy night's lodging. It's easy to find a motel under $50 throughout most of New Zealand, and a night here and there with clean sheets and your own bathroom will do wonders for your sanity, as well as your hygiene. How Much? Outfits such as Britz or Maui Rentals lease out campers with a kitchen, hot and cold running water, and sleeping space for two adults for around $300 a week in winter (May through September) and for up to $800 per week in summer (December through February). But booking a package like those regularly featured in BT's 40 Best Bargain Vacations-with a single bill that covers airfare and your RV-usually results in the best value. Tahiti Vacations, SunSpots International, and Newmans Vacations all have decent air/RV prices. RVING New Zealand: Operators Britz 011-649/275-9090, www.britz.com Maui Rentals 011-649/275-3013, www.maui-rentals.com Newmans Vacations 800/421-3326, www.newmansvacations.com Sunspots International 800/334-5623, www.sunspotsintl.com Tahiti Vacations 800/553-3477, www.tahitivacations.net